editor ' s note
swatch watch
WILL ACTIVEWEAR CONTINUE TO BOOM OR FIZZLE OUT? When I was 14-years-old, I remember sitting in the lounge wearing mismatching pyjamas (probably from Farmers) and my older brother came home with a bunch of his friends. Completely mortified that I was in pyjamas, I ran into my room embarrassed. I vowed that day I would never be caught in a bad outfit, and switched out all of my flannelette pyjamas for matching sets of leisurewear. Mostly black silk pyjamas. I also got rid of all my jeans and sweatpants. Fast forward to October 2020, I broke my spine in two places. Not able to bounce around the house in silk anymore, I had to invest in sensible machinewashable loungewear. I couldn't let my husband sacrifice another silk set to the washing machine. Thankfully because of the 2020 lockdowns, many designers had expanded into loungewear. A year ago the world went into lockdowns for the very first time, loungewear and activewear soared to new heights. Sleepwear, loungewear, athleisurewear, whatever you want to call it - if it was comfy, it was selling out. But is it still selling out? With hopes to return to normal life, something
consumers may take on board is the comfortable workwear lifestyle. Market expectations and surveys show that the global lounge and sleepwear market is predicted to continue to flourish. Brands like Allbirds have adapted their offerings to include loungewear and underwear. From January 2020 to January 2021, there was a 72 percent increase in women's sweatpants. Meanwhile, men's apparel saw a 34 percent increase across the board for new arrivals. Spiking in this was graphic tees and hoodies. Retailers and designers are talking about loungewear 213 percent more in 2021 than in 2020. International Fall 2021 runways showcased extensive luxe-leisure and sported a variety of ways to work from home in style. The votes are in: comfort is here to stay. Forget outfits that go from day to night, office to club. 2021 is all about bed to desk.
ON THE COVER
DOUBLE GAUZE – DUSTY GREEN/PINK A soft lightweight fabric made from woven layers of 100 percent cotton. Available in a range of colourways and patterns.
100 percent MERINO – WHISKEY Great quality merino made in Australia in a certified factory to ensure the highest of quality for a great price.
CUSTOM PRINTED FABRIC Choose your fabric type, quantity and print and let For Fabric Sake take care of you.
ABOUT FOR FABRIC SAKE:
behind APPAREL...
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
Peter Mitchell
ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online)
Tania Walters
Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com
Kieran Mitchell Sarah Mitchell Caitlan Mitchell Janet Guan Caroline Boe Raymund Sarmiento, Debby Wei
2 I February/MARCH 2021
This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2021
For Fabric Sake supplies top quality fabrics across New Zealand to ensure its customers have an abundance of choice for whatever project they may have at hand. For Fabric Sake offers custom fabric printing services as well as knit fabrics such as merino, and woven fabrics such as double gauze, poplin and linen. It's the one-stop-shop for all your textile needs.
CONTACT: +64 6 366 0820 www.forfabricsake.com sales@forfabricsake.com 36-38 Cambridge Street SOUTH, Levin.
THE APPAREL 2021 TRADE DIRECTORY IS OUT NOW!
CLICK HERE TO READ
fast five
‘GREEN CERAMICS’ MADE FROM GLASS AND SECOND-HAND CLOTHES Professor Veena Sahajwalla is obsessed with waste. She keeps a collection of rubbish in her house, her car is filled with garbage, she picks her way through her family rubbish bins before they get out the door - but why? Known as the Waste Queen, Professor Veena Sahajwalla is a revolutionary inventor who sees the enormous potential in everyday waste. Waste is really one of those untapped resources just waiting to be harnessed. Waste can no longer be packed off and sent somewhere overseas to be dealt with. Professor Sahajwalla's innovative thinking has led to her invention of 'green ceramics' - a product made from glass and second-hand textiles, set to revolutionise the way we furnish our homes. Instead of sourcing marble from mountains in Italy, people can use these eco-friendly 'green ceramics' to tile bathrooms and kitchens. Professor Sahajwalla has a track record for solving problems. 20 years ago, she invented a way to extract
carbon from old tyres to go into the steelmaking process to replace coke and coal. Millions of old tyres have since been diverted from landfill thanks to her. Every year tonnes of clothes get thrown away, along with glass. Green ceramics has a 'designer-type' look to them - made in a machine called a 'micro factory', it can be used to create the tiles outside of the lab environment. "We are reimaging what manufacturing could look like in the future." After years of pitching her idea, construction giant Mirvac, saw the potential in green ceramics. The building and construction industry contributes to 60 percent of waste in Australia which equates to 41 million tonnes a year. "We needed to come up with a sustainability initiative for a particular project," explained Natasha Ryko, National residential marketing director of Mirvac. "We have never seen anything like what Veena has been doing, it is really pioneering. We were just blown away," expressed Mirvac CEO and managing director Susan Lloyd-Hurwitz.
ICONIC NZ BRANDS CELEBRATE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY Accessory designers Boh Runga and Kathryn Wilson have collaborated on a pendant as a celebration of friendship and femininity on International Women’s Day. The collaborative pendant references a Kathryn Wilson best-seller, 'The Lola Heel'. The heel is now replicated in sterling silver with a gold-dipped toe and optional sweetheart charm. "A great pair of heels is like a great friendship... uplifting and empowering. Lola reminds us that women can be strong in their femininity. That when they share their experiences and knowledge with each other, we all grow," said Runga. Runga and Wilson see the Lola pendant as a
4 I February/MARCH 2021
modern-day homage to the friendship necklace and hope it will be a symbol of strength and aroha for the women who wear it. "It is a sweet, timeless piece to be shared with girlfriends, mothers and daughters for years to come," said Wilson. To honour the values embodied by the creation of the Lola pendant, Wilson and Runga will be offering all customers who purchase the Lola pendant between March 1st and May 30th 2021 the chance to win a half-day session of business mentoring.
ELECTRONIC TEXTTILES Electronic textiles offer revolutionary new opportunities in various fields, in particular, healthcare. But to be sustainable, they need to be made of renewable materials. A research team led by Chalmers University of Technology, Sweden, now presents a thread made of conductive cellulose, which offers fascinating and practical possibilities for electronic textiles. "Miniature, wearable, electronic gadgets are ever more common in our daily lives. But currently they are often dependent on rare, or in some cases, toxic, materials. They are also leading to a gradual build-up of great mountains of electronic waste. There is a real need for organic, renewable materials for use in electronic textiles," explained Sozan Darabi, doctoral student at the Department of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering at Chalmers University of Technology. Darabi, together with Anja Lund, a researcher in the same group, has been working with electrically conductive fibres for electronic textiles for several years. Previously, the group focused on silk, but now discoveries have been taken further through the use of cellulose. Results show how cellulose thread offers huge potential as a material for electronic textiles. By sewing electrically conductive cellulose threads into a fabric using a standard household sewing machine, it produces a thermoelectric textile that produces a small amount of electricity when it is heated on one side, i.e. by body heat. The textile can generate around 0.2 microwatts of electricity. "This cellulose thread could lead to garments with built-in electronic, smart functions, made from non-toxic, renewable and natural materials," said Darabi. Electronic textiles could be used in healthcare services by helping to regulate, monitor, and measure various health metrics. "Cellulose is a fantastic material that can be sustainably extracted and recycled, and we will see it used more and more in the future. And, when products are made of uniform material, or as few materials as possible, the recycling process becomes much easier and more effective," said Christian Müller, research leader for the study and a professor at the Department of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering at Chalmers University of Technology.
NEW ANIMAL TESTING POLICIY IN CHINA FOR COSMETICS
DR. MARTENS X SUICOKE: RELAXED & REFINED SANDALS Cult Japanese sandal brand, Suicoke, has established a reputation for cutting through the constraints of styles and trends - curating a style that is versatile and hardwearing. With a shared commitment to meticulous, innovative production, the Dr. Martens x Suicoke collaboration is an energising kick-start to the future of sandals. Complete creative freedom and a fresh direction. The ethos behind Suicoke's ever-evolving style profile resonates perfectly with Dr. Martens' reputation for rebellious self-expression. This season, the two have joined forces to create a capsule collection that represents the adventurous freedom of Suicoke's boundary-pushing design approach with Dr. Marten's long history of subcultural heritage. "Dr. Martens and Suicoke share a
mutual understanding and unique approach to design that consistently challenges creative development utilising only the highest quality materials," said a Suicoke representative. Each sandal stands on a lightweight yet hardwearing footbed and outsole by Italian firm Vibram. The collaboration is an innovative combination of the resilient Suicoke footbed and the Dr. Marten's Lorsan outsole, finished with dual branding. "We don't design to a specific demographic, but simple to make something special. It shouldn't be distinguished from us but rather by the consumer. They are the ones with the freedom and right to choose the product if it fits their lifestyle." The collab is available now at Area 51 stores.
China has announced that it will allow imported 'general cosmetics' to be sold in the country without being tested on animals. In 2012, PETA US uncovered that many companies that had banned animal testing were secretly doing the tests in China, PETA US took action to end the testing requirements. It partnered with leading non-animal testing experts at the Institute for In Vitro Sciences (IIVS) and
awarded the institute two grants, which enabled a team to train Chinese scientists in non-animal testing methods. "PETA US thanks China, the IIVS, and all the companies that supported this progressive effort." The new exemptions to China’s animal testing requirements do not apply to products for infants and children, products with new ingredients, or products from companies that are already under supervision by authorities.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I5
in detail
PANIA
P
ANIA offers thoughtfully considered designs that respect artisanship, land and people. Founder and creative director, Pania Greenaway is committed to producing New Zealand made garments and supporting the local fashion industry. PANIA’s latest collection within the Mihi range is the Mihi Everyday Lux range of essential pieces. The label works with a collection-based model, rather than seasonal. The Mihi Everyday Lux has a strong focus on fabrics that are kind to the wearer and kind to the environment. “The collection is inspired by my mum and grandmothers, wonderful resourceful wahine who used and reused the resources they had to create timeless pieces that effortlessly transitioned between work, garden and play,” explained Greenaway. Witnessing how resourceful the women around her were in reusing and repurposing garments was Greenaway’s earliest introductions to fashion. Seeing them take classic and traditional clothing to rework and style into something new, learning about the versatility of a plain t-shirt, suit or dress was truly impactful in Greenway’s fashion journey. This collection is timeless, featuring classic silhouettes inspired by menswear. The Everyday Lux Range is trans-seasonal, effortless and contemporary. They are garments to be treasured, worn and kept for, for years to come.
The collection uses fabrics that are either 100 percent natural or blends of linen, cotton and/or silk. Currently the label sources fabrics from wholesalers in Aotearoa who source designer’s end-of-line stock and dead-stock fabrics. “Being a smaller company, this suits us the best at the moment, as minimums and costs to order our own fabrics, or to import ourselves are very high.” Greenaway and her team rely on the information she receives from her fabric wholesalers to trace their fabrics to the mills. “As part of our sustainable strategy in 2021, we are looking at increasing the amount of fabrics we use that are traceable, organic and recycled. This means we will be able to trace the fabrics back to where they are grown and the supply chain.” The pieces in this collection are named after the areas around Greenaway’s rohe. “I whakapapa through my mum and Nan, to Ngati Tuwharetoa and all the names of the garments are areas around this rohe. My grandmother was of Scottish ancestry, and there are references to this in this collection also,” added Greenaway. The Mihi Everyday Lux incorporates popular styles from PANIA’s ready-to-wear collections. The brand refreshes their range annually to keep popular styles whilst introducing current fabrics and colourways to the existing range. This collection is available online and will be available for wholesale this year. PANIA aims to align with retailers and boutiques that support New Zealand designers and slow fashion businesses. For wholesale enquiries email Pania at pania@pania.co.nz, and for more information visit www.pania.co.nz.
&
94th edition
11 14.12.2020 Riva del Garda - Italy
essential stock
n i eb st
SWIM CINNAMON SWAN Founders Geoff Gates and Anneline Helms believe every swan is unique and has her own incredible journey. Her own voice, empowered to speak. Designed for closeness with the body, each Cinnamon Swan swimwear piece is soft-touch and made from recycled materials. Elegance and curves intertwine with prints and colour for individuality that meets poolside liberation. Her dream of the undiscovered, igniting her flame. Cinnamon Swan cares for each Swan, inspires to dream big and care for the planet in the process. Cinnamon Swan New Zealand’s sustainable swimwear collection invites women everywhere to celebrate their real story. Their swan story...made to be seen. For more information or to become a stockist contact geoff.gates@cinammonswan.com or visit www.cinnamonswan.com.
GEMMA LEE SUITS Gemma Lee is keeping it groovy out in bay watch. With popping colours and one-of-a-kind prints, Gemma Lee swimsuits and wetsuits are sure to add a punch to ocean adventures. Gemma Lee is ethically made from eco-conscious materials, bold, bright, and playful. If you are lucky enough to get your hands on one of their limited-edition designs, released only a few times a year, you will certainly have the suit that everyone will be obsessing over. This coming August, for the first time ever, they will be releasing their matching wetsuit and swimsuit range to complete the dreamy beach kit. To stock Gemma Lee email Gemma at gemma@gemmaleesuits.com or visit www.gemmaleesuits.com for more information.
8 I February/MARCH 2021
EUPHORIC COLLECTION Euphoric Collection is an online boutique offering modern and ethically sustainable swimwear that is 100 percent handmade in Wairarapa, New Zealand by Natasha Overend. Their mission is to provide an alternative to fast fashion with inclusive, quality handmade garments that will last for seasons to come whilst valuing our environment. Feel confident in luxurious fabrics, gorgeous colour tones, and classic designs featuring minimalist cuts that make a statement and supportive designs for all summer activities. Inclusive of a sizing range from size 6-20, Euphoric Collection is made to order and made for you. To stock Euphoric Collection pieces email Natasha at info@euphoriccollection.co.nz or visit www.euphoriccollection.co.nz.
KAILANA SWIM From the coast of Waiheke Island comes Kailana Swim. Made from the highest quality Italian Lycra, Kailana Swim provides cheeky and timeless pieces for women who want to feel empowered and detest tan lines. The Kailana Swim ethos is to make any woman feel sexy within herself for herself. These pieces do exactly that. The minimalistic cuts are designed to flatter a range of body types and the classic bold summer colours can alternate seamlessly, amplifying their versatility. Whether you are poolside in the Mediterranean or sailing through the Hauraki Gulf, Kailana Swim is an added touch of luxury. To stock Kailana Swim email Maslinka at maslinka@kailanacollective.com.
BACH SISTERS The Collar Piece swimsuit by Bach Sisters is lovable and unique - bringing a smile to the wearer, whether they’re relaxing at the beach, or wearing it with jeans in the evening. Made with UPF 50+ fabric with XTRA life treatment, this piece resists up to ten times more chlorine compared with those untreated. This allows for greater durability and better fit to the body. To stock this limited-edition piece by the Bach Sisters, email sales@bachsister.co.nz, or call Maria on 021 761 976.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I9
meet the buyer
HEBE BOUTIQUE Danielle Burkhart is the owner and buyer for Hebe Boutique. Hebe Boutique is a destination for style seekers, located in Masterton’s Kuripuni Village, Hebe is lovingly and carefully curated by Burkhart. Burkhart is dedicated to New Zealand designed, ethical fashion and accessories. Burkhart had purchased Hebe from its previous owners who had opened and operated the store for 18 months. It was fresh and the first boutique in the area. At the time, Burkhart was wholesaling her own label, My Boyfriends Back, while she also had recently had her first child. Seven years later, Burkhart has doubled her shop space and brand portfolio, with a tight knit team of four, the brand focuses on providing amazing ethical, New Zealand designed fashion alongside coveted favourites within the fashion realm. Being the only boutique of its kind in her area, Hebe Boutique caters to a wide demographic. When buying, Burkhart thinks of styles across ages and sizes. Moreover, her in-house label is available at Hebe, making the shop’s biggest point of difference. When looking for brands to stock, Burkhart looks for products that are ethically made and designed in New Zealand. They also must fill a gap within the Hebe Boutique aesthetic, while suiting the Hebe Boutique customer. “I try to cater across price points as well, as a boutique, quality garments can come at a higher cost, I make sure I balance this within the shop. My aim is that our offering feels special but also obtainable,” explained Burkhart. As the seasonal structure is ever-changing, Burkhart now budgets monthly for the store. She has a label breakdown; commercial, high-end, New Zealand made, basics, accessories etc., and adds up her indent orders as she goes through her monthly budget.
10 I February/MARCH 2021
Brands will often visit Burkhart personally at the shop, which is preferred for a busy mother of a young family, otherwise, Burkhart will travel to them or opt for a sample box. Using her ‘buying eye’, she selects brands or products based on a quick mental check list she has finetuned to suit her customers. “There is a lot of weighing up, aesthetic preferences against margins and numbers, and finally a lot of refinement until I reach my final order.” Burkhart often compares trends that become apparent each season and with each brands unique take on it. Designers and representatives of brands are the most helpful with any questions Burkhart may have. The buying process, however, could be even easier for buyers like Burkhart, if each label showed an entire season at once, rather than one collection per month/meeting. “Seeing the entire season at once is my favourite way to forecast and buy.” The impacts of COVID-19 has also affected the buying process for Hebe Boutique. COVID-19 has made it especially hard for buyers like Burkhart to see collections in person. “Although we have worked through it, it has required plenty of flexibility at both ends. Most of the delays encountered have been with hold-ups at the port.” Majority of Hebe Boutique brands do have local roots, or semi-local production, which meant the delays via the port has been minor to what it could have been. Despite the delays in delivery times, Buckhart personally feels that the seasons have ended up better aligned this year. “There has been this tendency to deliver coats in Jan/Feb when its 30+ degrees in our area, this year, however, our knitwear has only just arrived, and it’s
now beginning to get cold. Our sale ran a little later than usual, and I think this schedule is actually better for retail and the consumer.” Buckhart would love to see more alignment with buying and the seasons as well as some changes around indent, stock on hand (SOH) and sale. During these uncertain times, having strong relationships and communication with her labels has been the key component of overcoming the challenges COVID-19 has presented. Labels have been flexible, and so has Hebe Boutique as a retailer. Customers have also been banding together to support local to help retailers like Hebe Boutique through this tough time. “Hebe is also run by an amazing small team, so we’ve all put in extra hours, worked from home, changed tack, whatever is required to keep things ticking. At times, it has felt like we’ve received back some of the love and goodwill our small business has donated into the community previously – warm fuzzies!” Currently, Buckhart would love to continue to expand its accessories offering with more New Zealand based labels. Hebe Boutique’s team has been the same for seven years, each member, bursting with knowledge to make the in-store experience valuable and personal. The retail space is also beautifully styled to have a cohesive look, despite it having 40+ brands in store. The Kuripuni Village, where Hebe Boutique lives, is a very warm spot in Masterton. Filled with other retailers from hot yoga to fusion restaurants, it’s the perfect spot to visit for an all-round Masterton experience! For wholesale or stockist enquiries email shop@hebeboutique.com or visit www.hebeboutique.com.
Reach Tested
Podiatrist Approved
20 mins with
BY NATALIE
b
y Natalie Founder, Natalie Norman, wanted to merge two industries together: sleep products and sleepwear. by Natalie is a selfcare destination, with luxurious products that are made to stand the test of time – by Natalie is an investment in yourself. Norman has spent her entire career working within the sleep industry. From pillow structures she designed eight years ago to devoting her profession to understanding what it truly means to have a good night’s sleep. “Quite often, I’ll receive messages from people asking for tips about how to get the best sleep possible, or they’re looking for advice on issues they’re having with their rest. I’ve naturally progressed into a sleep connoisseur,” explained Norman. Norman has dreamt about having her own sleepwear line for as long as she can remember. With by Natalie, she has merged her expertise in the industry with her life-long dream. “I know what women want in their sleepwear because I want the same thing, for me, it’s all about bringing the elegance back into the bedroom. I saw an opportunity, and here we are many years and late nights later…” Norman’s family owns the largest mattress manufacturers in Australasia. She spent her childhood growing up around factories. She began working in the sewing line when she was just 14. For the bulk of her career, she has been analysing pillows, quilts, and other sleep supportive products, therefore by Natalie
was a natural progression for her to enter in the sleepwear industry. Norman’s wealth of knowledge in the sleep industry means she has been able to create genuine products that are at the forefront for consumers. Their Pillow Topper is a first of its kind, where you can choose any support and add on your bit of luxury. The silhouettes of their sleepwear range has been cleverly created for nightwear, but also for loungewear. Take your by Natalie pieces from your lounge to the streets with ease. The by Natalie pillow range is carefully considered. The brand’s ethos is to offer a range for all sleepers. Everyone sleeps differently, so by Natalie’s pillow requirements are bespoke. The brand is also very environmentally conscious, with fibres in their pillows created from old plastic bottles. And, for a bonus, all by Natalie pillows are made right here, in New Zealand. The by Natalie sleepwear collection was simply what Norman, being a mother of two in her thirties, wanted to see in the sleepwear market. “I was finding myself in plaid knit PJ’s or little night dresses. I either felt unsexy or self-conscious, sometimes both, especially if someone outside of my immediate family was around.” Norman felt the need for a sleepwear line that made women feel sultry and attractive, while still feeling comfortable, and not too revealing for those unexpected moments when they don’t have time to get dressed.
I know what women want in their sleepwear because I want the same thing, for me, it’s all about bringing the elegance back into the bedroom.
by Natalie sleepwear has a strong focus on the use of Tencel. Tencel is an innovative, sustainable fibre that can be traced back to its source. This was really important to Norman. Tencel is also incredibly effective in the sleep space, it’s luxurious and it’s as soft as silk. Some of Norman’s favourite pieces are the Isabella Slip Dress – it feels sexy and elegant, and the Amelia Button Up Night Shirt – soft and comfortable. For those who are wanting to start their own brand, Norman acknowledges that there will be daunting moments, and moment that are overwhelming, but her best advice is to just put one foot in front of the other and to never give up. “You will get through those moments, and it will all be worth it in the end. If you need help, ask someone. I love speaking with aspiring entrepreneurs, I am always here for anyone.” When Norman isn’t working on by Natalie, she will most likely be with her children. “I love spending time with my good girlfriends, and I try to prioritise my friendships as it’s so easy to get caught up in your career and let those special connections slip away,” she explained. What’s next for by Natalie will be more seasonal ranges. Norman is also working on a very exciting project for the brand that involves another sensual sleep experience. However, she can’t say much about it except – “I guess you’ll just have to stay tuned!” For more information visit www.bynatalie.co.nz or email hello@bynatalie.co.nz.
MAGGIE MARILYN
BRAND
ON M AX W E
LL
JOHANNA OR TIZ
colour trending
Terracotta T erracotta has made a comeback in not only the fashion-scape but all over the design world. Terracotta tones were popular in the 80s, however, this year, we've seen the move to a more earthy hue of terracotta, blending in perfectly with any neutral colour palette. This season we saw variations of this hue all over the (virtual) runways, from muted browns to bright tangerines and everything in between. Discover how top designers across the globe have incorporated this colour trend in their SS21 looks. Sergio Hudson’s Spring 2021 collection dances around the rainbow colour wheel, from pink, yellow,
14 I February/MARCH 2021
blue and white to our current favourite – terracotta orange. The use of vivid colours and gorgeously tailored pieces screams ‘boss lady on a mission’. This terracotta mini dress features a sexy waist cut out with intricate fabric button details. The accent shoulder pads gives it a chic and feminine look. Maggie Marilyn has supplied us with the perfect party top. In a funky checkered-hearts print in the trending terracotta shade, this silk number features a high ruffled turtleneck, slightly flared bodice and a flattering cut out in the centre. Pair it with denim jeans, add kitten heels, and the 90s nostalgic look is complete. Maggie Marilyn’s ready-to-wear Spring
2021 collection also features monochromatic shades of black and white, and other colours leaning towards a pastel colour palette. However, the bright terracotta hues seen in this top, but also in knit dresses and power blazers are definitely winners. Staying in line with his signature tailoring and clean silhouettes, designer of his namesake label, Brandon Maxwell, moves to a new ath-luxury direction, perfect for the work from home environment we are now accustomed to. Working with the brighter shade of terracotta-orange, this look sees a bright red tailored calf-length blazer dress featuring deep split seams at the front and back of the skirt. Layered under this,
DE SAINT SERNIN
MOON CHOI SER GIO HUDSON
is an orange neoprene high-neck jumper giving the outfit a casual sporty look, but still relatively dressed up with a silky skirt to match. Bedazzled crop tops, bandage tops and cut outs galore is seen in Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Spring 2021 collection. Sernin explains that this collection is inspired by the fashion-forward generation of e-girls, e-boys, and TikTok-ers. This orange bedazzled cropped top is definitely a head-turner, with the bold branding of LDSS sparkling in silver, it’s a piece that is hard to miss yet also incredibly wearable. Paired with a matching string belt in the same reflective orange hue, LDSS takes the terracotta colour trend
C LUDOVI
a Dream and adds its own bit of sparkle to it. Moon Choi’s Spring 2021 collection is made up of personal narratives reflecting aspects of human connection through polished tailoring and interesting cuts. The majority of her SS21 collection works within a neutral colour palette of pale yellow, browns, greys and blacks, this terracotta tangerine shade is refreshing amongst. The high-waisted straight leg pant is held up with a thin v-shaped strap extending to the shoulders. This unique design guides our attention from bottom up, towards the wearer’s face. Paired with a chunky black blazer, this outfit is bound to make a statement.
‘Barefoot luxury’ is how designer Johanna Ortiz introduces her ready-to-wear Spring 2021 collection. Relaxed and at home, but dressed up. This collection consisted of vibrant prints, big sleeves, pleats and ruffles – nothing short of basic. This dress features a dark red oversized floral jungle print on a gorgeous terracotta base. Filled with texture via asymmetrical layering techniques and the use of ruffles at the collar and base of the dress. Sinched in at the waist to define shape with a buckle belt in the same fabric, it blends in seamlessly, making this one cohesive piece perfect to wear from day to night.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 15
edited
THE RULES OF WHOLESALE RETAIL HAVE CHANGED. ARE YOU WITH THEM? For many years now, it's been reported retail is amid a direct-to-consumer (DTC) takeover. However, as we navigate trading in the COVID-19 era, it's the third-party titans reigning supreme. Just take a look at some of the heavy hitters covered in this report. Farfetch's revenue in 2020 increased 64 percent to $1.7 billion with plans to expand into China and beauty. Zalando's latest financial report in Q3 reported a revenue increase of 21.6 percent to €1.8 billion with plans to triple the size of connected stores in 2021. ASOS achieved 10 percent growth per quarter over 2020 and added Arcadia brands to its everexpanding portfolio. These are some pretty impressive figures to boast, especially when operating in the most challenging period retail has ever faced. So while wholesale channels may look more attractive to brands now than a few years ago, it's not without its risks. This makes data critical to provide visibility on how brands' retail partners are stocking, pricing and discounting, competitors, as well as empowering negotiation and giving insight into new platforms.
THE GREAT DEBATE: WHOLESALE VS. DTC An age old question. The short answer is both strategies work differently for each business and brands will often have to balance distribution to get the best of both worlds. The DTC model is characterized by having no intermediary to get goods to the end consumer, with businesses keeping their costs lower than traditional brands and generating higher margins. According to The Business of Fashion, if feasible, brands should aim for 50 percent to 80 percent of their sales to be DTC. This channel does have limitations to exposure, making it more challenging for brands to grow and tap into new markets. Here lies the beauty of wholesale; however, brands will need to relinquish some control e.g., how a
16 I February/MARCH 2021
product is displayed on the site, the competing labels it's merchandised with and discounting. This is why many luxury brands favour DTC channels though there has been a recent pivot to sell on an e-concession model such as Alibaba and Tmall's Luxury Pavilion. This gives them more power over pricing, marketing and offerings compared to a traditional wholesale partnership. Online wholesale remains essential for mass market brands, especially as the retail landscape becomes digitized, with the H&M Group considering digital expansion into new international marketplaces. Major players are also starting to dabble in stocking third-party brands to gain greater market share, test the water in new categories or spotlight emerging talent. Mango is currently courting third-party brands and will soon stock Intimissimi lingerie. John Lewis plans to add 50 new fashion and beauty brands to its mix throughout 2021 and Marks & Spencer is adding Jaeger, Seasalt and more to its portfolio. Retailers selling other brands need to ensure they comply with today's environmental expectations. Zalando is making sustainability a requirement for all brands and those stocked on the site will be ranked by the Higg Brand and Retail Module by 2023. Last year, ASOS set out new requirements for brands to follow ethical manufacturing and supply chain sustainability standards to be stocked on the site.
THE THIRD-PARTY GIANTS: ZALANDO VS. ASOS While both retailers are basking in the success of the COVID-fuelled e-comm boom, they have nuanced strategies when breaking down the brands available. ASOS's private label makes up 32 percent of items available on the site.
fig. 1
fig. 2
fig. 3
The brands with the highest number of products available are River Island, New Look, Topshop, Nike and Puma - the top three evidence of ASOS' absorption of the British high street. Zalando's portfolio indicates more of a street and sportswear focus. The top brands stocked are Superdry,
adidas Performance, Puma, Tommy Hilfiger and Only. Buckle up, we’ll be diving in deeper to examine the different metrics of a fast fashion and a sportswear brand on each of these sites. (fig.1) Case study: The fast fashion brand River Island's home site spans
menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, while the thirdparty sites primarily stock products for adults. Tops are 33 percent-39 percent of the total assortment at River Island and ASOS. However, there is a more even weighting at Zalando given to the top three categories. Accessories make up 14 percent at the home site and Zalando yet is less than 5 percent of ASOS' offering. Swimwear makes up 8 percent at ASOS compared to less than 2 percent on the home site and Zalando. However, the majority of these styles are over two years old and 93 percent are on sale. Products command the lowest and highest advertised full price on River Island's home site, with consumers paying £3 for a pair of socks upwards to £165.00 for a leather biker jacket. On average, River Island products at Zalando are £9.00 more expensive than on its home site as it holds more products landing in the £40-50 bucket. Discounting differs across all three retailers, with River Island currently advertising the most profound reductions on its own site at 54 percent. At its wholesale partners, Zalando is discounting a greater proportion of the brand than ASOS at 80 percent. However, it offers the shallowest reduction across the three at 30 percent. It also protects footwear, its second most invested category, from heavy markdowns, while ASOS and River Island avoid discounting bottoms too deeply. Despite ASOS stocking a high amount of River Island swimwear compared to the other sites, all in ones is the category warranting the deepest discount. Analysing products selling out of majority SKUs at full price over the past six weeks reveals the different types of River Island products consumers favour on each site. ASOS credits its quick pivot into loungewear as a factor in its successful sales, making it an ideal platform for brands to sell comfort-led products. At Zalando, the products selling out are dressier, indicating Brits are preparing for June 21st’s end of lockdown celebrations. Here’s a comparison of River Island’s Top Movers at ASOS compared to Zalando. (fig. 3) Case study: The sportswear brand On Puma's UK site, tops are given a similar weighting to footwear. This is mirrored at Zalando; however, ASOS prioritizes bottoms, driven by investment in sweatpants - harking back to its dedication to comfort. Breaking down the tops category
further also backs this up. T-sShirts and hoodies are the most stocked product across all sites, yet 14 percent of tops available at ASOS are sweatshirts vs. 8 percent at Zalando. The third-party sites hold on to more underwear stock, where there is a greater emphasis on outerwear and accessories on the home site. (fig. 4) Similar to River Island's analysis, the advertised entry-level is the lowest on the home site. Puma achieves this by offering football sock stoppers and then exits at £272.00 with a technical puffer jacket. ASOS commands the highest exit price, stocking a waterproof jacket from Puma's 2020 collaboration with Helly Hansen, which appeared on the latter brand's site, but not the former. ASOS is currently promoting the most aggressive discounting strategy of Puma products, with the greatest proportion of products reduced and the deepest markdown. Zalando has a similar reduction rate to the home site; however, it's discounting slightly more items. All retailers are dedicating the deepest discounts to fringe categories that aren't heavily stocked and have the lowest sell out dresses, all in ones, product sets and swimwear. The tops category experienced the highest number of full price majority SKU sell outs over the past six weeks. Digging deeper reveals various t-shirt options drove this. Top moving products at ASOS were categorized by trend-led products leaning towards athleisure silhouettes and lifestyle sneakers instead of performance-wear, which saw success at Zalando. Here’s a comparison of Puma’s Top Movers at ASOS compared to Zalando. (fig. 5)
fig. 4
fig. 5
fig. 6
fig. 7
THE STATE OF LUXURY Over the past few years, luxury brands have been trimming back their wholesale partnerships, concentrating on DTC strategies to achieve higher margins and gain back control of their pricing. For example, 90 percent of Prada’s sales were direct and it also had a notable shrinking presence on third-party sites. Its freshly-struck deal with Net-a-Porter provides a glimpse into the future of luxury wholesaling, allowing the brand to own and control Prada and Miu Miu inventory available on the third-party site. Net-a-Porter will then earn a commission for any products sold instead of marking the products up to turn a profit. This alternative model is an attractive solution as designer brands can be present on third-party sites, while generating sales and maintaining
exclusivity. With Prada tightening its distribution channels, the number of options stocked in the UK has fallen YoY by 84 percent at Farfetch, 47 percent at Net-a-Porter, 25 percent at Mr. Porter and 26 percent at Selfridges. Only Mytheresa has seen an incline at 17 percent. (fig. 6) Prada's highest priced goods are also housed on its own site instead of through its wholesale partners. This way, it can invest in ecommerce
innovation and tailor its services to its high-income consumers now shopping for luxury goods online with the role of bricks-and-mortar stores forever changed. (fig. 7) Having this kind of information at your fingertips is golden if you’re experiencing pushback from a wholesale partner suggesting your product is priced too high or too low for their site. Arm yourself with knowledge of the market and have the data to back it up!
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 17
meet the buyer
Ch are l C
apman - B uy er r Fo
o Daring H e ll
Apparel had the chance to catch up with Clare Chapman, the buyer for Hello Darling. Hello Darling stocks pieces that are timeless, well-made, and that are always edgy and ageless.
HELLO DARLING Hello Darling was a long held dream for Chapman. She always wanted to have her own store, being an interior designer for many years, and raising four children, she thought if she didn’t hurry up and do it, she would never be able to. Six weeks later after her realisation, she found a vacant store and opened her first bricks-and-mortar store. Hello Darling is a collection of pieces that Chapman loves personally. Each piece tells a story, and every label has a great ethos behind them. Some brands Chapman stocks include Karen Walker, La Tribe, and Saben, to name a few. Alongside apparel labels, Hello Darling also stocks bespoke New Zealand skincare labels as well as pantry and homeware staples Although COVID-19 has put a spanner in the works for all industries, it has not affected Chapman’s buying process. Chapman aims to support New Zealand made brands and New Zealand small businesses, meaning, border closures did not affect her in comparison to some other retailers. Getting
through the lockdowns on the other hand was definitely challenging for the brand, however, her community and online community has been amazing, making the gloomier days worth it. Hello Darling prides itself for excellent customer service. Chapman is personally available for her customers to contact, 24/7 via social media, and she communicates regularly with them via emails. “Each order is personally gift wrapped so it’s an experience to open,” explained Chapman. Chapman always keeps her regular customers in mind when ordering every season for Hello Darling. She is grateful to be doing what she does, for six years now, and has made many friends since launching her store. “I love the people and the stories I get told daily, like today, I had a lovely 86-year-old woman in here telling me about her life, it’s a privilege.” For stockist enquiries, email Chapman at clare@hellodarling.co.nz, or visit www.hellodarling.co.nz.
abrandjeans.com
A High Relaxed Short in Salty Stone
designer focus
TOAST SOCIETY
S
isters and best friends, Alex and Georgie Babyska are the creative director and executive director, respectively, for the womenswear label, TOAST Society. Apparel had the chance to catch up with the power duo to learn more about the exciting story of TOAST Society’s new collection launching in not only New Zealand, but Australia and the USA too. TOAST Society’s newest collection is the AW 2021 collection named Orbit. It is inspired by the transcendent energy of the solar system, with a goal to transport customers to a new fashion reality. “After such a tumultuous year with COVID-19, we really wanted to take people to another dimension that is colourful, exciting, positive and enchanting,” the two said. To achieve this, the collection and its campaign saw unique fabrications, special lighting that felt ethereal and spacey, props that represented an orbit, and an overall colourful collection. “Our focus was to reinterpret the staple puffer jacket with cropped cuts, oversized pockets and hoods, statement collars and unique embellishments like funky zips. Colour is a huge part of the brand’s identity, with
an ‘edible’ palette of pastel hues and bold colours that are guaranteed to brighten up any wardrobe.” TOAST Society puffers are crafted using a mix of buttery soft, glossy, and metallic fabrics that are water and wind resistant. They are filled with light-weight cotton, designed to mimic duck-down. “Quality and durability are really important to us, so finding the right fabric composition was a key focus, ensuring our puffers last year after year, not just a season.” Alongside this, the fabric used in their puffers are quick-drying, hypoallergenic and feather-free. The collection is definitely colourful and bright – and there is a reason behind each colour choice. Yellow was an important shade for the two, like the sun, yellow is energizing, bright and enlightening. “If we can’t always enjoy the outdoors and the sun, we thought – why not wear it!” On the other hand, sky blue represents the sky and the sea, and is associated with open spaces, freedom, intuition and imagination. The brand operates on a ‘indent’ ordering process due to the lengthy and technical production process. This means that stores place their orders six months
prior to delivery, and the brand only produces these quantities with very little excess or spare inventory. When aligning with retailers, Alex and Georgie are grateful to secure the best retailers for 2021. “We set some distribution goals for 2021, which included David Jones, Coco & Lola, Tuchuzy, Superette, and Revolve. We are now focused on producing amazing content to support these top tier retailers to encourage strong sell through and long-term relationships.” TOAST Society’s best-selling styles, the Pluto and Juniper jackets, are repeated in this collection. Previously offered in 3-3 colourways, but now introduced 7-9 colourways for 2021 – including yellow, baby blue and chocolate brown. Since the launch of TOAST Society in 2018, Alex and Georgie offers a solution for the gap in the market for edgy, cool, stylish and warm puffer jackets. Alex is the creative, Georgie is the brains. Like yin and yang, they have worked cohesively to create a brand that is full of life, colour, and imagination. For wholesale enquiries contact Karli from The Lofft Fashion Agency on karli@thelofft.com.au, or visit www.toastsociety.com for more information.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 21
accessory alert
JEM + BEA Jem + Bea was launched in 2015 by friends Dominique Hughes and Rebecca Da Silva Lima, after they struggled personally to find a desirable changing bag that was both practical and stylish. Da Silva Lima is the creative director and Dominique Hughes is the sales director. The two live in the UK and whilst on maternity leave in 2014 together they quickly realised all the changing bags on the market were the same dated fliptop satchel style in ditsy florals or just plain black. “Having had four children between us, now five, we knew if we were struggling to find something we liked, there’d be plenty of others who were too.” With a changing bag, you need multiple pockets to store everything the mother as well as the baby needs. There was nothing in the market that the two, or their respective partners, liked. After seeing this gap in the market coupled with Da Silva Lima being an accessories designer and Hughes being a handbag fanatic, Jem + Bea was born. “We wanted a range of nappy bags that were luxurious, made from real leather, modern and functional for both with-baby and the years beyond. A nappy bag that didn’t look like a nappy bag.” Da Silva Lima previously designed for Mulberry, Anya Hindmarch and Burberry. “Since I’ve mainly worked with high-end brands in my career, I’m a real sucker for beautiful craftsmanship and premium leathers and materials – it’s in my designer’s DNA,” explained Da Silva Lima. Hughes on the other hand has a background in law and a passion for beautiful handbags. “A combination of our skills meant we were well
22 I February/MARCH 2021
placed to develop a brand with longevity,” expressed Hughes. When creating products for Jem + Bea, they made sure to not compromise on materials. It was important to them that the bags could stand up to luxury designer bags. Looking back on the best-selling bags from her previous jobs, Da Silva Lima learnt that women appreciate well-made bags that not only look exquisite, but have a certain relaxed feel to them – they need to be versatile to be able to slot into everyday life. “There’s no point designing something beautiful that digs into your shoulder or flaps open when you’re least expecting it to! Taking my experience at these luxury brands, at Jem + Bea, we thoroughly wear-test our bags and accessories to make sure they survive the rigours of family life,” said Da Silva Lima. Interior organisation within a bag is equally important. It is absolutely essential in a changing bag. Practical details like placement of pockets, key holders, even the colour of the lining, all needed to be thoughtfully designed with parents in mind. “Staying organised is vital for a busy life, even more so when you’re a parent!” Jem + Bea bags and accessories are designed in their studio based in Kent, UK, and manufactured in China through reputable and high-end factories. Jem + Bea bags are made in the same factory as some of the fashion industry’s most highly regarded brands, therefore the quality of the craftsmanship is extremely high. “We are also leading the way with our Jem + Bea
Sustainable range which is expanding every season and replacing all nylon in our range.” From their initial launch of the now iconic Jemima and other handbag styles, Jem + Bea has expanded its collection into backpacks, weekenders, pouches, accessories and now a full eco collection. There are always new products in the pipeline, and Jem + Bea is now stocked throughout the world through independents and major department stores. The biggest goal the duo has for their brand is to earn a strong global presence based on quality products with modern aesthetics, and with sustainability at the forefront of Jem + Bea. For Da Silva Lima, her current favourite Jem + Bea product are the Eco Stroller Mittens because they look so slick on the stroller with the matt black material. Her changing bag of choice would be the Edie Eco Holdall – the size allows her to carry everything she needs, it has a modern silhouette and can be expanded into a tote shape. For Hughes, the Jamie Leather backpack is her top choice at the moment as it’s a sartorial choice that both parents can wear. The best part about being the co-founders of Jem + Bea for the duo is the fact that they are able to design functional parenting accessories with their own signature style. “We also love meeting other brands and wholesalers when we travel to the shows in Europe and the US. We get so much inspiration from the cities we travel to.” To stock Jem + Bea or for wholesale enquiries email Dominique on dominique@jemmandbea.com or visit www.jemmandbea.com.
10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby
Fo r wh o l es a l e e n q u i res : b ra n d @ ta y l o r b o u t i q u e.c o. n z
taylorboutique.co.nz/10-pieces
20 mins with
nd
cintosh ey M Fo c a u St
er of H
arrie And
Harrie and Sam is a brand for the everyday woman. They create premium, versatile and thoughtfully designed wardrobe staples, every garment is made by hand, with love, in New Zealand.
S am
HARRIE AND SAM
A
pparel had the chance to catch up with Stacey Mcintosh from Harrie and Sam this month to learn more about her brand, and her efforts to support the local fashion industry. Mcintosh’s very first memory of fashion was drawing outfits when she was younger. However, she admits she cannot sew and leaves that part to the experts. “If someone actually worked off my concepts, they may have looked like costumes for clowns, but the idea was there! Who knew that this is what I would have ended up doing and loving,” expressed Mcintosh. Growing up, Mcintosh had a standout outfit that she will always remember. Her mother got her a two-piece tracksuit from Pumpkin Patch – it was candy and pastel pink stripped leggings with layered pockets. “I used to wear it with some suede and patent leather shoes and big, big socks. Sounds absolutely awful, but at the ripe old age of nine, I remember feeling just amazing in this outfit. I loved it.” This was the first time Mcintosh remembers valuing her own choices in fashion and how it made her feel when she wore something she truly loved. Ultimately,
this is the goal Harrie and Sam aims for; it’s more about how the wearer feels when wearing a Harrie and Sam piece. Mcintosh’s biggest influence on how Harrie and Sam evolves are her customers. “Hearing how people feel, or seeing someone walk down the street in the garments, not only encourages me to grow the business and continue to learn, but to give me confidence to know we are doing something right.” Harrie and Sam do not do runs of their styles each season. Only making to order has helped the brand grow and adapt with its customers. COVID-19 has taught Mcintosh, and the fashion industry as a whole, that brands must be able to adapt often and sometimes quickly. “We have been around for four years now, we are always changing and learning, sometimes that is my favourite part.” For the first three years of running Harrie and Sam, Mcintosh was juggling a full-time position as an account manager for a liquor company. Thankfully, they were incredibly supportive of Mcintosh’s ambitions for her brand.
“Taking the plunge to know when the right time was to leave that to pursue Harrie and Sam was challenging. More so in the recognition confidence it took to do so. It was challenging to move from comfort, stability and many other things to a territory of relatively unknown aspects,” explained Mcintosh. Mcintosh did not have a fashion background, she did not study fashion nor did she have experience in textiles or production. Although scary and challenging, Mcintosh was open to stepping out into an industry where there were already many established names. She knew that, with time, she would add to her own experience and eventually be able to help others learn as she will. A typical day for Mcintosh consists of putting on a lot of different hats and handling a variety of tasks. Harrie and Sam has three machinists and a cutter, plus a factory who they use fortnightly. However, at their head office, there is only two people. This means, the two of them would take on business manager roles, production roles, shooting and planning, social media and everything in between. “I have to be disciplined, but I love my job and my
business, so it is always interesting, challenging and rewarding all in the same day.” Mcintosh’s Dad has given her advice she lives by to this day. To keep it simple, know your numbers, to always be open minded and be mindful of what your customers are saying. Although Mcintosh’s Dad is not in the fashion industry, he gives sound advice for her to approach her busines with. “Simple is key, sometimes when we love our business, and we feel passionate about it, we can over-create, over-analyse, and over-do things. Keeping it simple on so many levels help us to approach things calmly when things go wrong. It also helps us make clear decisive decisions with finance and business strategy.” Listening to her customers and connecting with them is important for Mcintosh. She was always taught to work hard and fair, and that is what she tries to do everyday with Harrie and Sam. For those who are just starting out in the industry, Mcintosh believes it is important to follow your gut, and be grateful and open to advice from others. “Take only what you are comfortable with and remember slow and steady is key. Never let the fun of
a project be on the back burner, as life isn’t just about achieving, if you can do something you love and earn money – you’re very lucky.” The key to success for Mcintosh is gratitude. “If we don’t check ourselves to feel grateful, we miss the good stuff. Celebrating small and big successes along the way, for me is the most important.” Being mindful of what and how you are doing as business creates perspective – with your team, your brand, and your own learning. “I am grateful for every moment and challenge I have been given.” Mcintosh believes formal education in fashion is definitely helpful in some roles – she truly admires people that have studied the field and those who have a wealth of knowledge in that regard. However, she does believe that working directly in the role will give you endless knowledge too, if you are open to it. “I studied business with a double major in marketing and PR. I can say I learnt a lot there, but I think I learnt more working for and with other people. I work alongside some incredible people, our workroom team have combined experience of more years than I have
walked this planet.” Being willing to learn and having a network of people who are happy to teach you along the way is incredibly valuable. One of the first pieces Mcintosh designed was ‘the dress on steroids’. “It was not okay in any sense, as there was frill on frill on frill…on frill. We still laugh about it and I actually kept it as a reminder to not have too much coffee or too much inspo at one time.” The Harrie and Sam customer are girls who want to have items that make them feel great. Classic staples that can be dressed up with more high-end items or dressed down with a pair of sneakers. When talking about the future for Harrie and Sam, Mcintosh wants to expand and see where it takes her. “I would love to add to our team and learn from others I work with to see where the brand can go. I will stay New Zealand made and continue to work on our sustainability.” To stock Harrie and Sam email Stacey on stacey@harrieandsam.co.nz, or visit www.harrieandsam.co.nz.
footnotes
ah Bola - Foun S ar de ro fS
26 I February/MARCH 2021
footwear at a reasonable price which is part of the reason why I established Sandy Days. That, and seeing the gap in the market for wide and long shoes, I feel it’s becoming one of the things we’re known for. Comfortable shoes for all feet, there’s no foot I haven’t been able to fit yet!” Bola works closely alongside the brand’s factory owner, they message and talk every single day. “I discuss my ideas with her for that season, and then she’ll let me know if it’s possible.” Bola sketches her design ideas to send to the factory, and at times, she adapts the factory designs to suit the brand’s aesthetic. After the designing and discussion process, they move on to making the first sample. At this stage, Bola views and tweaks accordingly – this happens a few times before she signs it off for production and photography. Sandy Days works via a made-to-order option, allowing custom-made shoes to fit perfectly for each individual customer. Oftentimes, ladies will have difficulties finding the right fit for shoes from mainstream stores. The brand also accommodates to those with arthritic feet, protruding bunions or even uneven leg heights, everything Sandy Days does can be adjusted accordingly. “This helps promote confidence in our customers as they’re able to wear shoes that fit them well and are incredibly comfortable. This brings me so much joy.” The made-to-order option helps the brand minimise its carbon footprint and stop excessive production. “We’re not about fast fashion in any sense. We want to try and do our part to help make the earth a little greener than how we found it.” Bola’s favourite pair of shoes she’s created are the Roxanne Boots, it suits her personal style, and she loves the edgy-chic vibe they give (not to mention they are incredibly comfortable). This may be a surprise to some, however, Sandy
Days
S
arah Bola is the founder of Sandy Days, a womenswear label in New Zealand. Since 2017, Sandy Days aims to create on trend fashion that supports skilled workers and supports fair trading. Bola comes from a family of four and did not have much growing up. When she was younger, every night she would wait for the first stars to appear in the sky. When she saw the stars appear, she would wish to own pretty dresses one day and dance around in them. This was Bola’s very first memory of fashion. Fast forward, after failing every level of schooling, she went on to get a master’s degree with first class Honours in Performing Arts. Dance was her outlet for her creativity, she now focuses her creativity on making and designing footwear and dresses for her brand Sandy Days. When designing Sandy Days’ handmade leather shoes, Bola focuses on three things: comfort, wearability and confidence. “We try to ensure our shoes are super comfortable so our ladies can get a lot of wear out of them,” explained Bola. Sandy Days’ shoes are easy to match with many outfits and can seamlessly transition from daytime to night-time looks. Another focus for the brand recently is to ensure every customer feels confident when wearing Sandy Days shoes. The brand offers shoe sizes from 35-45 but also make sizes smaller than 35 and larger than 45. Sandy Days has made a size 50 shoe for a customer who couldn’t find any other shoes that would fit her right besides Chucks. She often wore Chucks with her dresses, but now she can wear a cute pair of handmade leather shoes for a more polished look. Further, the brand has established a wide-fit section on their website so every lady can have her Cinderella moment. “I used to find it difficult to buy comfortable
andy
SANDY DAYS
Days began focusing on jewellery. Bola soon realised the jewellery market was a bit too saturated for her and stumbled across woven mules on Instagram. Ever since that moment, she has been designing woven mules for her brand. Now with her focus on footwear predominantly, her customer base has evolved from younger girls to those aged 35-55 – busy mums and ladies on their feet a lot. A typical day for Bola includes caffeine, a mumbun and a very active toddler. Her days are filled with juggling mum-duties along with sorting out emails, designs, packing orders, and finance for her business. Although, her days are hectic, to say the least, her best piece of advice is to never give up. Further, she has learnt to not take criticism for her designs personally. “I feel that my designs are an extension of who I am, so when someone says something negative about them, I had to learn how to not let it get to me. It was the shoes they were disliking, not me.” Sandy Days has a few factories in Bali that make up a team of around 60, keeping 60 employees during COVID-19 is important to Bola. “This was a crucial aspect to me, to support these men and women in employment through the desperate situation that Bali is in because of COVID. Our team has given medicine when needed and aew sent home when they are sick. They get team dinners and are paid a living wage.” When looking for stockists, they are in search of products that cannot be found anywhere else – this is what Sandy Days provides. Bola works with her retailers on a grassroot level, so many become close friends. To stock Sandy Days, email Bola at sandydaysnz@gmail.com or visit www.sandydays.co.nz.
fashionable films
Victoria Victoria is a British historical TV drama written by Daisy Goodwin. Victoria begins with the first few years of the reign of Queen Victoria, played by Jenna Coleman, through to her courtship and marriage to Prince Albert. Costume designer Rosalind Ebbutt research and looked through the Royal Archives and the ceremonial costumes of the 1830s prior to tackling the task at hand. Following the growth of Queen Victoria from an inexperienced 18-year-old to a revered royal, we see the popular puff-sleeves gowns she wore at the beginning of the series becoming less common. As time passes, we see Queen Victoria in tighter sleeves, lower waistlines and bell-shaped skirts. The late 1830s meant balls galore. Coleman needed on one hand, stunning regal dresses, and on the other she needed ‘normal’ clothes to sign papers in - a balancing act Ebbutt was brave enough to tackle. Prince Albert, played by Tom Hughes, was first seen in a traditional Hussan uniform. His costume had to show him transition from a German to an English prince. He slowly transitioned to sporting high neck shirts and black cravats, typical of an 1830s English Prince. Victoria is filled with impeccable costume design choices that makes it a visual masterpiece to watch.
The Miniaturist It’s 1686 and 18-year-old Nella Oortman, played by Anya Taylor-Joy, arrives in Amsterdam to meet her wealthy husband Johannes Brandt, played by Alex Hassell. When the two meet, Hansell presents Oortman with a miniature replica of their home, to be furnished by an elusive miniaturist. The miniaturist’s tiny creations mirror what is happening within the house in unexpected ways and seem to be predicting the future with unsettling precision. The stunning period costumes designed by Joanna Eatwell was thoroughly researched as this era was less commonly captured on screen. Eatwell was inspired by Dutch paintings as these showed interior domestic scenes for her reference. Each of the different classes, for example, servant classes to Oortman, who begins as a country girl and transforms into a merchant’s wife, could be seen in these paintings. Oortman is first seen in a gorgeous floor-length terracotta dress with intricate floral details at the cuff of her puffy sleeves. Hassell on the other hand looks very different to the masses. He is wealthy but does not care for being rich. This is seen in the way he dresses, his long brown coat seems humble, but the lining highlights his wealth, which he would rather keep to himself. Supporting characters are mostly seen in a sombre black. All dresses were in modest cuts to reflect the Puritan values that were popular in the 17th century such as rejecting luxuries and living a life dedicated to God. Eatwell’s work in The Miniaturist is admirable and simply stunning. Every detail is immersive for a period we do not see much on screen.
Murdoch Mysteries Murdoch mysteries is a TV series based on the characters from the Detective Murdoch novels by Maureen Jennings. William Murdoch, played by Yannick Bisson, is a police detective working in Toronto in the late 19th century. Murdoch solves a lot of his cases with methods that were unpopular at the time such as fingerprinting and blood testing. There are few duchesses or industrialists in the show, therefore the costumes show what a ‘normal’ person would wear. The characters aren’t ‘fashionforward’ and would often repeat their looks. Beginning in 1895, each season spans a year of film time. The costume designers captures the small details that changed over the years, from the width of the skirts, the shapes of the sleeves, to the size of the hats. Murdoch is seen in black top hats, and a boxy-style suit which is in the shape and cut that was popular for turn-of-the-century menswear. His partner, Dr. Julia Ogden, later on (set in 1901), is seen in a narrow green dress paired with a high turtleneck. Her dress is narrower than what was popular in 1895 reflecting the timeline the show lives in. Costume choices are an important indicator of time, however, the change in costume choices is even more important to express the movement in film time.
Dead Still Set in 1880s Ireland in the Victorian era, we follow a renowned memorial photographer, Brock Blennerhasset (played by Michael Smiley), who is drawn into a series of murders which appear to be linked to his work. Costume designer, Kathy Strachan, captured the 1880s Victorian era through her costume design and choices. Blennerhasset’s niece, Nancy Vickers, played by Eileen O’Higgins, is an aspiring actress who assists her uncle with his peculiar line of work. Her character is a bit ditzy which is reflected in the ridiculous mauve and pink off-the-shoulder dress that she wears. The look is met with a fitted bodice, a puffy oversized a-line skirt, decorated with pleats and ruffles. We also see her in other relatively ‘bright’ hues such as rich blues and yellows. Victorian, but with a bit of spice. In contrast, Blennerhasset, and majority of the supporting characters sported black bowler hats and top hats, with high collared shirts, waistcoats and long black frock coats, typical of the 1880s Victorian men’s fashion. All fit to attend any funeral that may come their way – for Dead Still, it’s cleverly quite fitting. In conclusion, mourning attire and bright, sometimes questionable, gowns were seen in Dead Still, but the overall Victorian feel was present, and that’s all thanks to Strachan.
Agatha Raisin Agatha Raisin is a modern British comedy-drama TV series based on M.C. Beaton’s book series of the same name. Raisin, played by Ashley Jensen, is a public-relations agent who moves to a quiet village of Cotswolds to start a new life. Unfortunately, she finds herself being a suspect in a murder case. We follow her attempts to clear her name while solving the mysterious death. Costume designer, Sue Thomson, captured Raisin’s PR-persona well with bright looks which made her standout when she moved to the countryside. Strong colour-blocking, matching plaid suits, bright yellow gloves coupled with a bright red lip was the signature ex-PR look for Raisin. When we see Raisin on screen, we see her bursting with bright colours, loud patterns and bold accessories. Nothing quite matches, but it adds to the chaos perfectly. She is unapologetically herself in terms of her style throughout the series, and never does she dull down her look just to fit in.
Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries is based on Kerry Greenwood’s mystery novels. The murder mystery TV series set in 1920s Melbourne, following the life of a glamourous private detective, Phryne Fisher. Costume designer Marion Boyce and her team created around 120 costumes for the series which included sleepwear, daywear, nightwear and ball gowns. Phryne Fisher, played by Essie Davis, is glamourous in the way she dresses, bubbly in spirit and does not stay within the social conventions of the 20s. Boyce dressed Davis in a way that allowed her to flow between action scenes and romantic femme-fatale looks. Throughout the series we see Fisher in loud cloche and berets dressed with feathers, flowers and other decorative elements in shades of pink, beige and black. Cloche and berets were popular in the 20s for women, and Boyce used Queen Mother has her inspiration for hat designs. Paired with Fisher’s large range of gorgeous hats and headpieces, we see her in feminine gloves, silk slips, sparkly ball gowns with sheer shawls and feather trims. Long coats with fur collars and cuffs were popular in the 20s, so without hesitation we see Fisher sporting them throughout the series. Davis gracefully navigates her way through her elegant costumes immersing you into Phryne Fisher’s story and 1920s Melbourne. Find these series and more on
GET INVOLVED
The Fashion Council of New Zealand is a free industry resource for the fashion industry. Membership is completely free. Join us in a space that gives you the opportunity to lobby, to network, and to collaborate.
Fashion Council of New Zealand
classifieds
- Complete Sampling Service Pattermaking - Computerised Digitising & Grading - Computerised Marker Making - Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates - Sample Making - Production Runs - Production Cutting Call the team (09) 369 9249 / 021425149 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz / oliviah@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY
Whatever your pattern making, grading, or maker making requirements may be...
StyleCAD # 1 Top Selling
PDS/Pattern Grading & Marker Planning System. StyleCAD is helping hundreds of companies in Australia, New Zealand & Fiji. Plus thousands world-wide. To find out how a StyleCAD System will help your company Email: graeme@elizabethmachines.com.au
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 31