CLIENT
Men’s Style Guide # 5 J A N U A RY - M A RC H 2 013
Syndicut Boxers Christopher Shannon Lou Dalton Topman Design Sibling James Long Alexander McQueen Christopher Raeburn Nicole Farhi Bass Buds Simeon Farrar
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AW13
J A N U A R Y - M A R C H 2 013 / 0 0 5
Client Style Guide #5
Contents L O N D O N M E N CO L L E C T I O N S : AW 13 CHRISTOPHER SHANNON P05 JAMES LONG P08 S I B L I N G P 10 T O P M A N D E S I G N P 12 N I CO L E FA R H I P 14 L O U DA LT O N P 16 C H R I S T O P H E R R A E B U R N P 18 M C Q BY A L E X A N D E R M C Q U E E N P 2 0 S Y N D I C U T B OX E R S H O R T S P 2 2 I T ʼ S S PA I N, T H AT ʼ S W H Y I T ʼ S S U N N Y P 3 2 STREET ST YLE P44 G I V E N C H Y AC C E S S O R I E S P 5 0 T E E S BY S I M E O N FA R R A R P 5 4 BASS BUDS P56
F RO N T CO V E R C R E D I T S P H O T O G R A P H Y: I A N CO L E / w w w. i a n c o l e . o r g M O D E L : B E N S O M E R S AT A M C K , L O N D O N G RO O M I N G : S A N D R A B E R M I N G H A M u s i n g L A B S E R I E S F O R M E N ( S K I N ) & S T RU C T U R E ( H A I R ) P U B L I S H E D BY C L I E N T P U B L I S H I N G E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F : I A N CO L E CO N T R I B U T I N G F E AT U R E W R I T E R : D E A N S T E P H E N DAV I E S G RO O M I N G E D I T O R : S A N D R A B E R M I N G H A M GUEST PHOTOGRAPHER: FERNANDO GOMEZ SPECIAL THANKS TO MARK HADDON & BRAD HOBBS AT H A D D O N P R / w w w. h a d d o n p r. c o m info@clientmagazine.co.uk w w w. c l i e n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k w w w. c l i e n t m a g a z i n e . t u m b l r. c o m w w w. c l i e n t p u b l i s h i n g . c o . u k
We would like to extend a special thanks to Jason O’Reilly, Duty Manager of Britannia International Hotel, Canary Wharf, London for his help and the co-operation of his staff during our cover photo-shoot. The location proved perfect for our requirements and his outstanding efforts made everything go to plan. The International Hotel 163 Marsh Wall Canary Wharf Docklands London E14 9SJ www.britanniahotels.com
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AW13
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON AW13 There is always a point in a young designer's career when the saleability of their clothes has to come to the forefront of their label's ethos. For AW 13, after a steady number of seasons toying with a more approachable sillhouette, Christopher Shannon displayed his most accomplished and arguably most commercial collection to date, whilst also treading in to much newer teretories: womenswear. The seperation of menswear and womenswear, something typically adorned as an industry standard, was dismissed by Shannon in a decision that ultimately worked in his favour, highlighting the visual unity between his mens-
www.christophershannon.co.uk
wear and first womenswear collection. The clothes were slick and polished and the inspiration, the cumpulsions of obssesive horaders, was subtly evident in gaffer-tape inspired jeans, hard leather shirts, multiple-panneled sweatshirts and padded zip-off outerwear. The womenswear mirrored it's menswear counterpart perfectly with panneled croppedbombers, printed sweatshirts and a stand-out spliced white shirt. The use of solid block colours was familiar, with a deep orange and navy blue being tossed in to Shannon's typical black, white and grey mix. The evolution of
Shannon's menswear to a much more luxurious and commerical offering continues to set the label apart from it's luxe streetwear roots. But, with the slick progression of his menswear and his first successful fortay into womenswear, this only open up a multitude of possibilities for his label in seasons to come.
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR CHRISTOPHER SHANNON AW13
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR CHRISTOPHER SHANNON AW13
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR JAMES LONG AW13
JAMES LONG AW13 James Long's AW13 offering, starts where it's SS predecessor left off. The muted colour pallette of earthy greys and browns are enriched with muted shades of orange, solid greens and deep warm yellows. It is Long's reference to the past which charged his surface patterns with a refreshing energy. Â Embroided pink Flamingos and motifs of 70's drag star Divine's face feature throughout the label's signature knitwear and
www.jameslonguk.com
sweatshirt pieces. There is a treatment to Long's fabrics which is perhaps best appreciated when these clothes are upon the moving figure. The tailoring of the trousers, to move and breathe when they walk, the densley knitted fibres of the knit and embelishments, the cut of cropped bomber, and the treatment of the almost rubberised outwear fabrics all come to life when they move under a flashing light.
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR SIBLING AW13
SIBLING AW13 In a nod to the 70's punk icon, Richard Hell, Sibling's AW13 backdrop depicts a floral motif of the words, 'PLEASE KILL ME'. A statement sought from the now infamous t-shirt of their American muse. Whilst many might have taken from punk, visuals of mowhawks, ripped t-shirts and studded leather jackets, Sibling managed to channel the rebellious, noneconforming attitude of what 'punk' originally stood for and, in turn produced their most visually exciting collection to date. There was a real sense of questioning of just what is 'appropriate', and designers Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery
www.siblinglondon.com
played with the disproportiante scale of supersized knitwear. Whilst many of their contemporaires conformed to offer a much more comercially appealing sillhouette, they offered giant headwear, oversized knitted jumpers, floor-length scarves and boxing glove mittens. When the collection is stripped down to it's single elements, you still have Siblings signature leopard print jumpers, cardigans and leggings, but, for the rebelious, none-conforming and post-punk customer, you have much more exciting options. Sibling are definitely one to keep an eye on.
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR TOPMAN DESIGN AW13
TOPMAN DESIGN AW13 The Topman Design team dressed their 'boy explorer' muse for every possible climate. From the start to the finish of their AW 13 show, you get a real sense that their character was on a journey, travelling through climate to climate, with each look slowly adapting to it's imediate surroundings. The colour pallette grew as the show progressed, starting off with muted creams, soft whites and  clouded greys, slowly escelating to a crescendo of burnt oranges, saffron reds, scarlets, deep shades of dark berries
www.topman.com
and eventually black. There was a real sense of luxury and practicality within the clothes, with an emphesis on the layering of different textual fabrics, including boiled wools, fur and waxed cottons, all surving a purpose: to keep the traveller warm thoughout his journeys. The collection offeres cropped padded jackets, full duck-tail and fair hooded parkas, fitted and relaxed trousers in waxy waterproof fabrics, evening coats and an array of intricate knitwear.
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR NICOLE FARHI AW13
NICOLE FARHI AW13 To obtain longevity as a designer, you need to give your customer what they want. That is exactly what Nicole Farhi does, and has continued to do this season in her  small and understated display at London Collections: Men. There is a real sense of modernising the traditional, evident in her sharp 2-piece tailored suits presented in dark greens and charcoal greys. Farhi offered an array of intricately woven knits, including panneled jumpers, kneckwear and fitted cardigans with a colour palette of light blues and earthy greys and browns which work in correlation with the classic yet contemporary design.
www.nicolefarhi.com
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR LOU DALTON AW13
LOU DALTON AW13 Lou Dalton offered a formal take on traditional workwear for his AW 13 show, the first in London Collections: Men's schedule. Simplicity was the key to the show's success, with sharp tailored wool suiting in shady charcoal greys and blacks, set against classic white shirts. The outerwear, including parkers, bomber jackets and overcoats had a much looser fit than the familiar Dalton cut, contrasting
www.loudalton.com
against slim fitting, kneepatched trousers. In a nod to British Herritage, green and red tartan checks adorned multiple pairs of trousers in varying scales and one loosefitting shirt, which was one of the stand out pieces from the collection, as well as an all-black, all-in-one boiler suit.
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN AW13
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN AW13 For his AW13 collection, entitled 'S-I-G-N-A-L', Â the young English designer sought reference from British sea power and the 'arctic explorers' who inhabit the British coast.
The collection itself was outerwear heavy featuring waterproof parkas and macs, cropped bomber jackets and overcoats with windbreakers, designed to combat the brisk arctic elements.
Military clothing and in particular heavy duty and multi-purpose military fabrics are central elements to Raeburn's vision. In 'S-I-G-N-A-L', and in keeping with wet and cold climates Raeburn has referenced, multi-layered, thick water and weather proof utilitarian fabrics are treated accordingly.
Raeburns  prints comes in the form of all-over printed world maps, again treated with a waterproof coating, guiding the explorers on their journey through unknown territories.
www.christopherraeburn.co.uk
MCQ BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AW13
MCQ BY ALEX ANDER MCQUEEN AW13 It was a small but dignified offering for MCQ’s Paris presentation this season, with a perfectly eclectic mix of British tailoring and sportswear… and a couple of fisherman’s beanie hats thrown into the mix. There was a clear definition between the tailored fit and what was ‘casual’ with MCQ offering a large selection of ‘legwear’, with tailored slim-fitting trousers, slouched loose-fitting trousers and leather knee-patched denim jeans. The outerwear and knitwear also had a
www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk
tailored and structured quality to it, with slimfitting polo-necked knitwear, sharp 2 pieces suits, high-cut leather jackets and cropped bomber jackets in an array of different coloured fabrics and prints. The prints, in a not-sounfamiliar reference to the big-brother ‘Alexander McQueen’ brand came in the shape of autumnal floral prints, cut amongst the MCQ staple, checkerboard, which season after season is becoming the visual aesthetic bridge between these two family labels.
SYN DICUT BOX ERS GLORIF I C AT I O N OF THE BOXER SHORT
ALL UNDERWEAR SYNDICUT BOXERS
HE’S NOT AN ACTUAL BOXER, HE’S JUST WEARING ‘EM PHOTOGRAPHY BY IAN COLE GROOMING BY SANDRA BERMINGHAM BEN SOMERS AT AMCK MODELS
JAZZY JAYS PRINT BOXER ARTIST LOUIS HUDSON GROOMING by Sandra Bermingham using HAIR STRUCTURE SKIN LAB SERIES FOR MEN
HONEYCOMB PRINT BOXER ARTIST ALICE BEGG
CIRCULAR MOTION PRINT BOXER ARTIST RUPERT NEWMAN
“When were a pair of boxers not a pair of boxers? When they’re a pair of Syndicut Boxers. By championing collaborations with some of the UK’s freshest design talents, Syndicut are out to re-define traditional attitudes towards men’s underwear. With super-cool prints and bold colours, you can’t go wrong! What’s more, for every pair of Syndicut
Boxers sold, £1 will go to the Syndicut Foundation, supporting creative projects in impoverished areas of the world. We were naughty by making Ben wear his in the pool, but we thought it was a great setting for these damn fine boxers. Go buy some. Go. Get.” www.syndicutboxers.com
YELLOW BOXER
BIRDFORM PRINT BOXER ARTIST ALICE BEGG
SHOT ON LOCATION AT BRITANNIA INTERNATIONAL, CANARY WHARF, LONDON. SPECIAL THANKS TO JASON O’REILLY. VISIT www.britanniahotels.com
YELLOW BOXER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY IAN COLE GROOMING BY SANDRA BERMINGHAM using HAIR STRUCTURE SKIN LAB SERIES FOR MEN
CLIENT
Men’s Style Guide # 5 D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 012
IT’S S PA I N . T H AT ’ S WHY IT’S SUNNY
Photographer Fernando Gómez Syndicut Boxers Stylist Chiqui Peña Marc Jacobs MakeVuitton up & Hair Abigail Asensi Ferrer Louis Photography Assistant Rosa Matilla Versace Model Daniel Illescas at Sight Mgmt Simeon Farrar
White turtleneck pullover by SLAZENGER Khaki trousers by FRED PERRY Brown Hat and Black Shoes by G-STAR
Squared Trousers by JOSE RIVERO Denim Shirt by G-STAR Brown Cardigan by FRED PERRY Blue Leather Shoes by G-STAR
Grey Tartan Shirt by FRED PERRY Brown Cardigan by G-STAR Blue Corduroy Trousers by G-STAR Blue leather shoes by G-STAR
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR
Jersey Knit by FRED PERRY Blue Jacket by G-STAR Blue Corduroy Trousers by G-STAR
opposite Checked Shirt by FRED PERRY Blue Navy Trousers by FRED PERRY Black Leather Shoes by G-STAR
above Checked Shirt by FRED PERRY Double Buttoned Pullover by SLAZENGER Blue Navy Trousers by FRED PERRY
Waist-Length Jacket, Rhombus Pullover and Blue Navy Trousers, all by G-STAR
LONDON
STREET STYLE
SNAP SHOTS BY IAN COLE STYLING BY MARK PAUL HADDON FOR HADDON PR www.haddonpr.com MODELS: YURI & SHANDOR AT M&P MODELS HOODY BY CROOKS & CASTLES VARSITY JACKET BY CROOKS & CASTLE both from www.threadsaddiction.com SNAP BACK BY DOPE from www.dope.com DENIM JEANS BY BUCKS & CO www.bucksandco.com
POLO T-SHIRT BY CAT A 'ECUADOR' from www.weekendoffender.com JEANS BY BUCKS & CO from www.bucksandco.com
SHORT-SLEEVED SHIRT BY CAT A 'SAN MARINO' from www.weekendoffender.com KENNETT ALTITUDE WATCH from www.kennettonline.com
SHORT-SLEEVED SHIRT BY CAT A 'SAN MARINO' from www.weekendoffender.com DENIM JEANS BY BUCKS & CO www.bucksandco.com
DENIM SHIRT BY WEEKEND OFFENDER from www.weekendoffender.com PADDOCK CAMO JACKET BY THE DUFFER OF ST GEORGE from www.jdsports.co.uk BLACK SNAPBACK BY RUMKNUCKLES from www.rumknuckles.com
STRIPED T-SHIRT BY WEEKEND OFFENDER from www.weekendoffender.com DENIM JEANS BY BUCKS & CO from www.bucksandco.com MODELS OWN BOOTS ALL STOCKISTS www.weekendoffender.com www.kennettonline.com www.rumknuckles.com www.jdsports.co.uk www.threadsaddiction.com www.dope.com www.bucksandco.com Thanks to Mark Haddon at www.haddonpr.com
GIVENCHY ACCESORIES P R E - FA L L 1 3 www.givenchy.com
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR
Turtleneck Pullover by G-STAR
R E P SU OL Y CO ES B N E O T E R M S I R R A r.com rra A a f n F .simeo w
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Men’s Style Guide # 5 J A N U A RY - M A RC H 2 013
Syndicut Boxers