CLIENT
Men’s Style Guide # 9 - 2 014 BRITISH
Dior Homme Damir Doma Dries Van Noten Dr Martens Burberry Paul Smith Boneville Lanvin Maison Martin Margiela Jeffery West Doherty Evans & Stott Harvey Nichols PXL Clothing Kenzo Saint Laurent
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SIMON VAN MEERVENNE BY J M FERRATER
SPRING/SUMMER 2014 / 009
Contents BOYS P005 BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL X RIVER ISLAND P020 IT’S A LONDON THING P022 SIMON THE DANCER P030 THE GROOMING EDIT P040 THE SHOOTER P058 BONEVILLE SS/14 P072 HUNTERGATHER SS/14 P076 LATE NIGHTS IN THE BIG APPLE P084 RHYS P092 PXL CLOTHING P100 MADRID FASHION WEEK P102
COVER CREDITS PHOTOGRAPHY: J.M. FERRATER MODEL: SIMON VAN MEERVENNE AT VIEW MEN FASHION EDITOR: MARC PINA ART DIRECTOR: DANI RULL GROOMING: DANI RULL USING CHANEL COSMETICS PHOTO ASSISTANT: PABLO ROTHSCHILD SIMON WEARS BLACK SHIRT BY DIOR HOMME
PUBLISHED BY CLIENT MAGAZINE / PROJECT TEN www.project-ten.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: IAN COLE FASHION EDITOR’S: JULES WOOD, MARC PINA STAFF WRITER: KATRICE DUSTIN GUEST PHOTOGRAPHERS: DONALD MCPHERSON, GUSTAVO LOPES MANAS, IAN COLE, LARA ARMARRIZZMAR, LEA NIELSEN, MATTHEW STANSFIELD & VIC LENTAIGNE. GUEST STYLISTS: BETHANI GOWLAND, DANYUL BROWN, JULES WOOD, KRISHAN PARMAR & METTE KROGSGAARD.
info@clientmagazine.co.uk www.clientmagazine.co.uk www.clientmagazine.tumblr.com www.instagram.com/clientmagazine www.twitter.com/clientmagazine www.project-ten.com
Client Style Guide #9
Boys Photography LĂŠa Nielsen Styling Mette Krogsgaard Hair & Make-up Ulla Jacobsen Models Anders B, Lasse S, Rasmus S and RenĂŠ Daniel at DIVA Models
Anders B wears Shirt by Matinique Knit by Oscar Jacobsen Jacket by Nelly.com
opposite Rasmus S wears Shirt by Libertine Libertine Jacket by Armoire d’hommes
Anders B wears Sweatshirt by Hope
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Lasse S wears Shirt by Ben Sherman Tie by Filippa K
Lasse S wears Polo Shirt by Lacoste Blazer by Oscar Jacobsen Chinos by Cottonfield Belt by H&M
Rasmus S wears T-shirt by Libertine Libertine Trenchcoat by Hackett
RenĂŠ Daniel wears Polo Shirt by Fred Perry Knit by Lacoste
RenĂŠ Daniel wears Polo Shirt by Fred Perry Knit by Lacoste Trenchcoat by Hackett
Lasse S Polo Shirt by Lacoste Blazer by Oscar Jacobsen
RenĂŠ Daniel wears Shirt by Soulland
Lasse S wears Polo Shirt by Lacoste Blazer by Oscar Jacobsen Chinos by Cottonfield Belt by H&M
Anders B wears Shirt by Matinique Knit by Oscar Jacobsen Jacket by Nelly.com
Baartmans and Siegel x River Island AW Capsule Collection Written by Katrice Dustin for Client Magazine
Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel met whilst working at Viktor and Rolf and were united by their combined belief in beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design. After graduating from the renowned Menswear Fashion Design and Technology BA and MA at London College of Fashion in 2010, the Dutch/English duo have secured their place as the rising stars of the LC:M schedule and have gained the support of leading industry journalists, stylists and buyers through their strong use of interactive textures and focus on luxurious fabrics in imaginative shapes that strive to remain truly accessible.
The narrative behind the Autumn/Winter 2014 collection centres on a strong masculine protagonist with dark cinematic elements reminiscent of the works of Phillip K Dick and the stark synthesizer noir of film director Michael Mann. The range offers key outerwear pieces such as a structured double breasted blazer in a high quality wool mix fabric as well as a distinctive goose down puffa jacket with reverse feature, while accents of slick accessories and statement footwear, including a unique petrol effect snow boot, help to define the brand’s aesthetic.
we felt it was important to carry through our identity of indulgent masculinity with our signature fabrics and refined classic silhouettes. River Island’s responsiveness and huge industry network has allowed us to maintain our high level of craftsmanship which has been most refreshing.”
The self described modern-traditionalists, Baartmans and Seigel have stayed true to their brand identity with an unwavering eye for detail and razor sharp tailoring. “When working on the concept for the collection
The 12 piece collection will be available in selected stores as well as online from September 2014.
In celebration of the launch, River Island will present a film at London Collections: MEN in June, collaborating with Baartmans and Siegel on a project directed by Ryan Hopkinson as part of the Fashion Film initiative.
It’s a London Thing Photography by Vic Lentaigne Styling by Danyul Brown Hair by Jamie Horne using American Crew Fibre Makeup by Claudia Savage using Mac Cosmetics Model: Scott James at Storm Model Mgmt
Polo-neck and Blazer by Topman
Polo-neck by ACNE Suit Jacket & Trousers by Agi and Sam
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Polo-neck by Topman
Polo-neck by ACNE Blazer by Christopher Raeburn
Polo-neck and Blazer by Topman
Top by ACNE Jacket by Agi and Sam
Polo-neck by ACNE Blazer by Christopher Raeburn
Jacket by Christopher Raeburn
Simon the Dancer Photography by J M Ferrater Fashion Editor Marc Pi単a Grooming by Dani Rull using CHANEL cosmetics Photo assistant: Pablo Rothschild Model: Simon Van Meervenne at View Mgmt Art Director: Dani Rull
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Sweater by Kenzo Long Johns by Calvin Klein
opposite Total-look by Jean-Paul Gaultier
this page Black Jacket by Dries Van Noten
opposite White Shirt by Dior Homme Black Skirt by Josep Abril
this page Black Jacket by Diesel Black Gold
opposite Raincoat by Josep Abril Black Shorts by Kris Van Assche
this page Black Trousers by Damir Doma
opposite Total-look by Martin Margiela
this page Total look by Kenzo
THE GROOMING EDIT WITH HAMILTON & HARE Photography by Ian Cole Grooming by Sandra Bermingham Models: Jun, Rokas & Jacapo at Bookings, London All underwear & loungewear by Hamilton & Hare, London
Jun wears Dior Homme Eau For Men (EDT 100ml) ÂŁ66.00 from Harrods + Hamilton & Hare Pyjamas www.hamiltonandhare.com
Rokas wears Karl Lagerfeld for Men (EDT 100ml) ÂŁ52 from Harrods
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Jacopo wears Baxter Of California x Want Les Essentiels De La Vie Grooming Set & Wash Bag ÂŁ200 from Mr Porter
HAMILTON & HARE QUALITY BRITISH UNDERWEAR Olivia Francis set up Hamilton & Hare in 2012 after a successful advertising career at M&C Saatchi. With her belief that men’s underwear should be much more than just functional and uninspired, she developed the collection using Savile Row expertise and an obsession for detail. The next step was to use the finest materials that both look and feel rich yet comfortable. Part of the brands inspiration is shown through its logo - a pair of boxing hares, honouring the original boxing short, worn by boxers in the ring, who wanted to look and feel top notch. www.hamiltonandhare.com
Jun wears Tom Ford Tobacco Oud (EDP 100ml) ÂŁ210 from Harrods
Rokas wears Dr. Jackson’s Natural Products 05 Face And Eye Essence (50Ml) £60 from Mr Porter
The Shooter Photography by Matthew Stansfield Styling by Bethani Gowland Hair by Rob Czlapka Grooming by Martin Christopher McClean at Boss Model: Adam Cowie at Boss / Storm Model Mgmt Italian Wool Suit by Doherty Evans & Stott Tie by Doherty Evans & Stott White Shirt by Gucci
Rain Mac by Burberry London White Shirt by Gucci Checked Wool & Grey Trousers by Doherty Evans & Stott Tie by Doherty Evans & Stott Moon 3832 Shoes by Jeffrey West Leather Gloves by Paul Smith www.harveynichols.com www.dohertyevansstott.co.uk www.jeffery-west.co.uk
Prince of Wales Check 3-piece Suit in Marling & Evans Wool by Doherty Evans & Stott Pocket Square by Doherty Evans & Stott Tie by Doherty Evans & Stott White Shirt by Gucci Brilleaux 3472 Shoes by Jeffrey West
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this page above Stott Italian Wool Suit Trousers by Doherty Evans & Stott White Shirt by Gucci this page right Gucci white shirt with vintage Mamiya C330 Twin lens reflex camera opposite top right Rochester Rodrigo Shoes by Jeffery West with vintage Mamiya C330 Twin lens reflex camera
Roadmaster Wax Jacket by Belstaff Knitted Jumper by Refectory
Bachardy Blue Knitted Wool Jacket by Doherty Evans & Stott Checked Wool & Cashmere Trousers by Doherty Evans & Stott Pocket Square by Doherty Evans & Stott Polo-neck Jumper by Topman
Suit Jacket in Scabel Wool & Cashmere by Doherty Evans & Stott Checked Wool & Cashmere Trousers by Doherty Evans & Stott Polo-neck Jumper by Topman
this page Bachardy Blue Knitted Wool Jacket by Doherty Evans & Stott Checked Wool & Cashmere Trousers by Doherty Evans & Stott Rochester Terace Shoes by Jeffery West opposite Total-look by Zara STOCKISTS www.harveynichols.com www.dohertyevansstott.co.uk www.jeffery-west.co.uk www.topman.com www.zara.com
Special thanks to these locations: The Koffee Pot 21 Hilton Street Stevenson Square (Northern Quarter) Manchester M1 1JJ www.thekoffeepot.co.uk Castle Hotel 66 Oldham Street Manchester M4 1LE 0161 237 9485 www.thecastlehotel.info
RCNQ Northern Quarter 10 Hilton Street Manchester M1 1IF Tel: 0161 222 0200 email: info@rcnq.co.uk
The Lowry Hotel 50 Dearmans Place Chapel Wharf Manchester M3 5LH England Tel: +44 161 827 4000 Fax: +44 161 827 4001 email: reservations.lowry@roccofortehotels.com
Boneville SS/14
Boneville was founded in 1981 by legendary designer Massimo Osti, famed for inventing unique dyeing techniques and developing innovative materials that evolved the fashion industry. He is also famous for creating brands C.P. Company (Chester Perry) and Stone Island
Following on from the legacy of Osti, the Spring/Summer 2014 Collection is the first from Boneville in over two decades. The brand was purchased in 2012 by entrepreneur John Sharp who’s passion for the brand led for him to develop a powerful creative team, now lead by Creative Director Adi Wollaston, who has over 25 years experience in fashion. Staying true to the innovative nature and respect that Osti had achieved, two divisions have been created – Boneville & B.N.V. Sporting Goods – both boasting distinctive naval influences whilst embracing modern trends for a strong 2014 collection. Massimo’s son Lorenzo Osti spoke about the brand in December, 2013: “I recently enjoyed the opportunity to take a closer look at the first collection of Boneville’s re-launch. Having been away from the market since its last collection in 1993, some 20 years ago, I was delighted to discover the way in which my father’s work had been sensitively
and successfully interpreted, heralding the original spirit of the brand: silhouettes, bold colours, interesting fabrics and clever functional solutions. I wish John (Sharp) and the entire Boneville team all the success they duly deserve. “ We really love these rich and authentic b/w images to show off the collection and we’re pleased to share with you. After two decades, Boneville is now back for good, and we look forward to seeing the brand develop further. You can see more of Boneville in our next British Style Guide (Issue #9, released late April, 2014) Written by Ian Cole, Editor-in-Chief For further information or to shop, visit www.Boneville1981.com or visit their flag ship London store at: 52 Artillery Lane, London, E1 7LS
Boneville SS/14
Boneville SS/14
huntergather ss.14 Photography Ian Cole Fashion Editor Krishan Parmar Model Kiren at Bookings Models Grooming Shell Sullivan All fashion SS/14 Huntergather
Since being launched by David Bradshaw and Chris Bailey in December 2012, Huntergather has created its own genre of fashion retailing Words by Katrice Dustin
An idea that started with a men’s capsule collection, just over a year later Huntergather now boasts a womenswear collection, a London Marylebone flagship store which doubles as a cafe and exhibition space, as well as an ecommerce site which includes a full editorial platform. Defined as a gathering of minds and a repository of ideas, Huntergather offers exclusive collaborations from various iconic British artists and companies, and is devoted to providing the every day man’s wardrobe essentials with a decisive twist regardless of season. Spring/Summer 2014 menswear saw a powerful use of graphic prints and incorporations of colour throughout the collection, providing a contemporary approach to core wardrobe essentials such as cotton macs, hooded windbreakers, zip through shirt jackets and ribbed neck bombers. Garment dyed military shorts and a new block chino are available in a selected choice of colours and can be easily worn with cashmere cotton cardigans or crews. The strong geometric khaki green or monochrome prints are defined as Tab, Block, Porus, Cell and Staple and are seen
mainly in the shirting, sweats, chinos and shorts and include highlights of bold colour and a simple floral print. In addition to seasonal collections, Huntergather offers a rolling collection of clean lines and luxurious fabrics as well as a selection of raw denim and corduroy jeans at a reasonable and accessible price point. Finely tailored jackets in soft cord act as reliable favourites and such staples as the perfect white shirt, a statement bomber jacket or a cotton crew neck tee will remain readily available and can be complemented by various seasonal additions. Mixing refined modern classics with collaborative innovations, Huntergather aims to push the boundaries of what it means to be a fashion label while offering a new and inventive take on men’s dressing. Written by Katrice Dustin For more information, visit www.huntergather.com
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Late Nights in the Big Apple
Photography by Donald McPherson Fashion Editor Jules Wood Grooming by Cheyenne Timperio at ArtMix Beauty Model: Kyle Maskell at IMG Location: Abe Greiss Estate, courtesy of Victoria Greiss Trousers by ODD Shirt by WESC Tie by Alexander McQueen
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Shirt & Suit by White Chalk NYC
Shirt by Dr Martens Jacket by Rochambeau
Trousers by Rochambeau Shirt by C.P Company Shoes by Dr Martens
Pants by Parkchoonmoo Shirt by Parkchoonmoo Shoe by Dr Martens
Trousers by Rochambeau Shirt by C.P Company
Shirt by Parkchoonmoo Suit by White Chalk NYC
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Rhys
Photography by Gustavo Lopez Ma単as Fashion Editor Marc Pi単a Makeup by David Lopez Hair: IVAN GOMEZ SANCHEZ @KASTEEL +AGENT FOR BALMAIN HAIR Model: Rhys Pickering at Traffic Producer: Lorena Parra
Sleeveless T-shirt by Diesel Black Gold Trousers by Giorgio Armani Belt by Loewe
opposite Black Jacket by Dries Von Noten Swimsuit by Dior Homme this page Black Waistcoat & Shorts by Brain& Beast Shoes by Loewe
this page Trench Coat by Lanvin opposite Suit by Maison Martin Margiela Black Trench Coat by Lanvin
this page T-shirt by Maison Martin Margiela Suit By Ana Locking opposite Black Cardigan by Dior Homme Shirt by Jan Iu Mes Shorts by Damir Doma Belt by Loewe
PXL clothing Words by Katrice Dustin
Embracing the internet generation through a clever use of graphic prints while focusing on a strong attention to detail and cut, PXL (short for Pixels On Cotton), continues to pioneer as one of London’s top premium street-wear brands. For the Spring/Summer 2014 collection, PXL draws key inspiration from everything to the iconic retro Motorola brick phone to contemporary London culture, using the bold seasonal branding of the London dial code (0207) emblazoned across vests, leather raglans, crew neck tees and caps. This season sees an expansion of the collection with a wider range of pieces including leather strapbacks, bucket hats and Italian leather varsity jackets. Rounding out the mostly monochrome collection are the unisex “Lips Airtex Vest” as well as the “I Love You” raglan, both featuring delightfully bold flashes of crimson. Launched by Dacre Bracey, founder of RWD magazine and a respected name in the UK music industry, PXL began with a determination to combine a drive for modern design with a love of culture and music. Dacre’s first introduction to streetwear began with his work on the streetwear brand Artful Dodger (by Scott Langton and Jay Z) for PopUp Showroom - currently the European arm of Crooks and Castles. He had also gained notoriety for for his original artwork printed on flyers for legendary house and garage nights and hip hop concerts and has since worked on creative projects for such hip hop heavyweights as Dizzee Rascal, Tinie Tempeh, Pharrell, Beyonce and Rihanna, as well as having lent his inventive eye to working on campaigns for Jay Z, Nike, adidas and more. PXL is available at www.pxlclothing.com
Madrid Fa s h i o n We e k Behind the Scenes Photography by Lara Armarrizzmar
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