TREND FORECAST AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 SURBHI SHUKLA
TREND FORECAST A/W 2012/13 Trends have existed in all aspects of societies the world over. Events in our surroundings have subliminal effects on us even though we may be blithely unaware of them. A fashion trend can define a period of time and the state of mind of society depending on shifts in culture, climate, politics etc. In today’s world, technology has made everything and everyone accessible; people are knowledgeable and all information is at their disposal. Narrative is a key matter because the enlightened consumer who has everything they need will not be easily swayed. A product should be multidimensional and should sell an experience that stimulates emotion. In this trend book, we predict the new and next of fashion based on the events in nature and the sociopolitical environment which seem to be characterised by the polarity of extremes and how it effects the present day and the future. The
current events fuel an intellectual renaissance giving birth to a school of thought similar to that of the Romantic Era of the mid nineteenth century which represented a heightened interest in our surroundings, emphasis on expression of individuality, rebellion against iron fisted establishments and departure from the attitudes of classism and ignorance. This is not only a young person’s revolution. A dynamic energy powers through the Autumn Winter 2012/13 season triggered by awareness and empathy. The season sees a social trend become a more personal undertaking in the interpretation of surroundings which provides motivation to be artistic and fearlessly push boundaries to depart from the norm and put across a personal point of view in a world of many voices. This Trend book is a forecast of the three trends that will be at the forefront in Autumn/
Winter 2012/13 and they are the following: In the face of the beginning of a decade upset by Extreme weather conditions, numerous natural calamities, political unrest and economic instability, SOLDIER ON is a trend inspired by the brave mindset that is ready to power through any adversity.
GEOMATRIX (flight of fight) is a trend that contrasts popular catwalk culture and explores visual appeal of dimensional forms that represent a sturdy protective shell. The abstract silhouettes of this trend dissolve gender differences, mirroring the current society.
ETHNIC
PUNK is a multicultural trend that finds its roots in the punk movement of the mid 1970s and is combined with traditional features of the Middle Eastern clothing; bringing about a mix of unconventional fabrics and colours which make this an original and distinct trend.
CONTENTS 1. SOLDIER ON
5-16
2. GEOMATRIX
17-28
3. ETHNIC PUNK
29-40
4. BIBLIOGRAPHY
41- 47
AUT WINT 2012
TUMN TER 2013
“Times are tough, Life is hard, and Fashion becomes the armour to survive the brutality of everyday life.� - Bill Cunningham.
SOLDIER ON
The be ginning of this decade has been faced with challenging situations like major natural disasters, extreme c limatic conditions and political conflict in numerous countries. T his trend is inspired by a sturdy psyche, almost like that of a soldier who is ready to withstand any hardship that comes it’s way. Having evolved from militar y fashion, this trend is all about the functionality and usability of clothes that comprise of practical and robust fabrics which are mainly variants of cotton, namely, her ringbone twill and drill with sleek cuts that allow movement. T his trend also draws inspiration from the clothing of women munitions workers in the 1940s. Dramatically long, floor-swee ping skir ts with undefined silhouettes add
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a touch of femininity to this trend. T his trend also brings about the revival of the vintage ar my fatigues. Combination of Unpredictable layers adds to the masculine sturdiness of the silhouette; while outer sleeve length becomes shor ter so only just a peek of the inner sleeve is visible, this adds a slightly spor ty yet sophisticated look and makes this trend distinct from the previous militar y trends. Statement accessories like e paulettes accentuate the look and feel of the trend and the Russian fur hat (Ushanka) flatteringly protects from harsh weather conditions. T he colour palette takes inspiration from ar med forces unifor ms i.e. olive g reens, deser t yellows and navy blues with slight echoes of natural colours.
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COLOURS & FABRICS
PANTONE 18-6216
PANTONE 18-0627
PANTONE 16-3919
PANTONE 13-0720
PANTONE 16-1219
PANTONE 16-1520 HERRINGBONE TWILL
COTTON DRILL
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Geomatrix
The ‘flight’ of the psychiatric term ‘fight or flight’, this trend is a complete turnabout from the flamboyant culture of catwalk. It is a departure from the traditional ideas of glamour as it explores the strange visual appeal of asymmetry and multidimension. This trend promotes complex beauty which is almost hidden from the eyes of the world. The hard, unconventional silhouettes that are almost geometric abandon figure hugging forms and incorporate a more abstract relationship with the body are at the crux of this trend. This trend is conservative, yet futuristic, it is rough around the edges and refined still. The stiff vintage shapes are teamed with asymmetrical drapes; this in a way hides the shape of the body, providing protection and playing with an androgynous image of both men and women dissolving gender distinctions as a reflection of the current society. The clothes are tailored to amplify the shape and fall of the fabric. Heavy materials such as felt, gabardine, linen etc are deliberately chosen because of their logic of structure. Dimensional coats that exaggerate the silhouette, loose trousers, asymmetrically draped skirts that end slightly above the knee are in the limelight this season and effortlessly make their way
into formal wear. Bulky wedges, platforms and flat shoes remain in fashion while three dimensional shoes make it to mainstream regular wear. The colour palette is quite sombre, easy to wear, and does not overwhelm. It varies from absolute contrasts i.e. parchment, stark white, greys, jet black, to natural atmospheric colours like blues which accentuate the desert browns, blue greys and mauves which are comforting and calm. These tones re-evaluate what neutral means as a state of mind. The trend is extended outside of clothing, on to accessories and make up. Hats, such as the fedora and the bowler’s hat will remain the main accessories of the trend as they flatter and bring attention to the structure of the clothing. Classic watches, metal strap for women, that are not too bulky will flatter and give the illusion of a tiny frame. Midsized watches for men, to provide a sturdy and strong frame.In relation to make-up, minimalism is the way forward, with only the eyes being highlighted with angular make up and the rest of the face left to remain natural, thus exposing the bone structure of the face.
COLOURS & FABRICS
PANTONE 19-4024
PANTONE 18-1613
PANTONE 11-4202
PANTONE 19-0303
PANTONE 15-1308
PANTONE 18-1238 GABARDINE
SUEDE LEATHER
Ethnic Punk
The world is growing smaller every day; advances in the means of travel and communication have made it possible to communicate news from one corner of the world to another in a matter of seconds. Technology has taken globalisation to a whole new level and provides a better understanding of cultures across the world now, more than ever. This has led to absorption of different cultures into societies worldwide. As the revolution in the Middle East progresses from being sublime to absurd and causes the subsequent fall of callous bureaucracy like the domino effect, the ripples of uncertainty are felt globally. Ethnic Punk is a multicultural trend, a marriage of the punk ethos with a traditional ethnic undercurrent. It sees a blend of unusual fabrics and colours like tweed with leather, embellished leather and satin stitch embroidery on cotton with denim etc. The colour palette is inspired by the traditional Middle Eastern attire and architecture. Leather and gold are at the centre
of this trend as it predicts vintage leather jackets and detailed adornments, gold embellishments, shoes, accessories and even mettalic gold nail paint to take centre stage. Personal creativity is reflected in hints of DIY as ripped jumpers, frayed hemlines and detailed scarves take it further with strong shapes, witty silhouettes and rich colour combinations. Heavy accessories are the essentials of this trend, structured, medium sized bags; also with unusual fabric combinations like wood and leather will be at the forefront. Chunky rings, two to three in one hand and neck pieces embedded with semi-precious stones will highlight the ethos while Mohawk beanies protect from the cold. The colour palette for this trend is powered by optimism, the hope of a better future and the emotion of urban life. Outlandish bright colours dominate the palette which are accented by dark undertones. From striking greens, rich rusty reds, deep maroons to parchment whites, this trend is about emoting with colours and not holding back.
COLOURS & FABRICS
PANTONE 19-4057
PANTONE 14-0446
PANTONE 19-1725
PANTONE 15-1157
PANTONE 18-1547
PANTONE 18-1613 METALLICS
TWEED
LEATHER
SUEDE LEATHER
BIBLIOGRAPHY SOLDIER ON Page8: http://lookbook.nu/look/1689737 http://theunemployedstylist.blogspot.com/2011/02/celine-prefall-perfection.html http://haikalciumlowfat.blogspot.com/ Page 9: http://lookbook.nu/look/1712519 VOGUE (INDIA, JANUARY 2011) http://www.brandish.tv/2009/02/11/londons-street-style-is-itthe.html http://lookbook.nu/look/1706789-are-you-dead-or-are-you-sleeping PAGE10: http://ballcapsandneckties.blogspot.com/2009/03/epaulettes-plt.html CAMOFLAGE JACKET (FROM PERSONAL ARCHIVE) http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/11911Savitri_1798Web.jpg
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PAGE11: (IMAGE1&2): http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ http://haikalciumlowfat.blogspot.com/ PAGE12: http://www.mbfashionweek.com/ http://lookbook.nu/look/1724438-The-Trench PAGE14: http://www.avenuefabrics.co.uk/section.php/41/1/ brown PAGE 15: KEY PIECES http://haikalciumlowfat.blogspot.com/ http://www.blog.peacemagazine.com/2011/02/10/palladium-lite-introducing-the-summer-boot/palladium-lite_menspring-2011_lowres_4-3/ http://lookbook.nu/look/1724438-The-Trench http://fadetogreyblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/very-importantnote-to-self.html http://www.storets.com/miscu-layered-cape-style-colorationtrench-coat.html PAGE16: SKIRT: VOGUE (INDIA, JANUARY 2011) http://thecroft.wordpress.com/ 42
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LF96QQ/ref=asc_df_B002LF96QQ 2418116?smid=A34I5VZZL38IB&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn &creative=22218&creativeASIN=B002LF96QQ http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZW41yqCrzMs/TYoP3_7PyVI/ AAAAAAAAC7Q/WyAWZ3cOWNs/s1600/2.jpg http://jakandjil.com/blog/?p=5513
GEOMATRIX PAGE20: (ELLE INDIA, JANUARY 2011) http://lookbook.nu/look/1714379-White-Wash-Wall PAGE21: WGSN.COM http://lookbook.nu/look/1601218-Lon-Dra http://lookbook.nu/look/1602864 http://lookbook.nu/look/1702753 PAGE22: http://lookbook.nu/look/1679287 http://jakandjil.com/blog/?p=5563 http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/12311Robert%20 R_4877Web.jpg PAGE23:www.ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/ ValeriaBillelo 43
http://www.y-3store.com/item/store/Y-3/tskay/6C0705DF/rr/1/ cod10/41208681DU/gender/woman/agerange/Adult/areaid//sts/ http://lookbook.nu/look/1721171-MARS PAGE 24: http://lookbook.nu/look/1685487 http://lookbook.nu/look/1702735 PAGE26: http://www.falconcoast.com/Textile-Glossary_272. aspx http://www.thefabricfairy.co.uk/acatalog/Craft_Felt.html http://www.best-b2b.com/Products/808/812-2/nonwoven-microfiber-suede-synthetic-leather_355603.html PAGE27: KEY PIECES http://bananaspoon.blogg.se/2011/february/judy.html http://www.y-3store.com/item/store/Y-3/tskay/6C0705DF/rr/1/ cod10/41208681DU/gender/woman/agerange/Adult/areaid//sts/ http://www.monki.com/products/Jackets-Vests/Johanna_1991 http://forum.xcitefun.net/sophisticated-origami-shoes-madefrom-flat-patterns-t9557.html http://www.10000blogs.com/category/louis-vuitton/ 384044
http://www.myfashionlife.com/archives/2011/01/07/lunchtimebuy-topshop-printed-drape-skirt/ PAGE 28: http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/fashion/black-trousers-86622 http://www.rainbowgrp.co.uk/mortgages/Capped-Rate-Mortgage. aspx http://www.hgogo.com/category/accessories http://uk.burberry.com/store/?WT.srch=1 http://mybrandofheroine.blogspot.com/2011/01/andreiachavesgeometric-shoes.html httpwww.shopstyle.co.ukbrowsetote-bagsForzieri-GB http://lookbook.nu/look/1714379-White-Wash-Wall http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/the-tribella-nixon-watches
ETHNIC PUNK PAGE32: http://www.karenwalkereyewear.com/2010/ PAGE33: http://lookbook.nu/look/1664574 http://lookbook.nu/look/1642802
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http://lookbook.nu/look/1670327 PAGE34: http://lookbook.nu/look/1664144 http://lookbook.nu/look/1666032 PAGE35:BACKGROUND IMAGE: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mbrV7SQdJs/TXpIMWnw7uI/AAAAAAAAC3Y/8MvAsRy-yTE/s1600/aa.jpg http://lookbook.nu/look/1690655 GOLD NAILS: http://pamperedandpolished.co.uk/2010/12/newyears-eve-nails-gold-nail-rock/ PAGE36: http://lookbook.nu/look/1712629-BLACK-SENSE-OF-HUMOR
http://lookbook.nu/look/1742338-Dear-Japan http://lookbook.nu/look/1704515 PAGE38: SATIN STITCH:
http://lookbook.nu/look/1690655 http://alexesn.deviantart.com/art/AVATAR-Movie-Leather-Texture-152055783 http://www.harristweed.org/fabrics_popup. asp?id=7&image1=assets/samples/large/sample_09lrg. jpg&image1cap=Harris%20Tweed%20Fabric%20Sample%209 httpwww.bittbox.comfreebiesfree-hi-resolution-wood-textures 384046
PAGE39: KEY PIECES http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BE2aKWpO68c/TXZR_JC8FgI/ AAAAAAAAC3Q/EaWM9vhj0X0/s1600/9.jpg http://www.theoutnet.com/product/223181 http://www.whileinstyle.com/2009/01/hot-trend-golden-nailpolish/ PAGE40: http://www.discountsgrab.com/product/APART-Deconstructed-Moto-Jacket-Leather-jacket-with-tweed-detail.html http://neonico.tumblr.com/post/1040721875/ethnic-shoes http://www.thisnext.com/photo/mohawk-dreadlocks http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5kB758kqozE/TXO4gCcMErI/ AAAAAAAAC04/49CWdQ_uhRs/s1600/7.jpg
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