The Watch Guide MAY 2016
OVE RS E A S The only watch of its kind bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, is the ideal companion for an extraordinary voyage revealing a unique perspective on the world.
CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755
OV E RSE AS CH RO N O G R A P H
Geneva official watchmaking certification
Introduction
FROM THE EDITORS
We’re in a golden age of wristwatches. With smartwatches dominating headlines and luxury markets shifting across the globe, the people designing, making, and marketing timepieces have to adjust to shrinking attention spans, and try harder than ever to capture loyal watch collectors. It’s worth the effort, though, and the proof is in the product. Today’s offerings are better, and more thoughtful, than in years past. For our second annual Watch Guide, we’ve sifted through the thousands of novelties released over the last year, from budget-friendly time-only watches to piece-unique grand complications. With each watch, we uncover more than just a new technology or a covetable dial—there’s also a story and a history behind each of these pieces. Mechanics remain the sustenance of watchmaking, now with a concerted effort to be less intimidating and more attainable. It wasn’t long ago that high complications commanded high prices, but innovation has made worldtimers (page 13) and annual calendars (page 9) accessible to the fledgling collector, too. The days of throwing diamonds on a smaller men’s watch and calling it a ladies collection are fading into the rear-view mirror with genuinely interesting women’s watches (page 16) taking the spotlight. In recent memory, there hasn’t been a better time to buy a great watch—or a better time to read about them. —Courtney Kenefick and Stephen Pulvirent
A watchmaker assembling the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon. (ON THE COVER) The Tudor Black Bay Bronze. (FOLLOWING PAGES) Images courtesy of the respective brands. SURFACE WATCH GUIDE
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Deep Dive
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For Tudor’s dive watches, the past is the richest resource. A renewed interest in vintage watches has been met with a trend in designing new timepieces that pay homage to the industry’s midcentury heyday. Whether it’s in design details, technical oddities, or more subtle colors and textures, the knowledge of yesteryear is leveraged as one of the most successful strategies today. Tudor’s genuine heritage in dive watches—which began with the Oyster Prince Submariner in 1954—is unrivaled. Since then, various militaries have commissioned the Swiss manufacture to create special watches. In fact, the iconic “snowflake” hands come from watches used by the French Marine Nationale for decades. The Black Bay, released in 2012, was Tudor’s fi rst watch to reinterpret its vintage dive watches. The red color was inspired by a piece from the company’s archives that had faded in a peculiar way, and touches like the rose logo and soft gold printing were tributes to the watches of yore.
Nearly every year since, Tudor has iterated on the Black Bay, offering new versions of its past. For 2016, the brand had something different in mind—a first. The Black Bay Bronze is the debut bronze timepiece the brand has ever produced. At 43mm, it’s also slightly larger than the other Black Bays. The alloy contains a bit of aluminum, and it will only get better with age, changing color and darkening. The faded dial and bezel color are inspired by those found on vintage yellow gold watches, which took on that particular rusty hue over the
years. The 3-6-9 numerals on the dial make it a so-called “Explorer dial,” something very rare in the vintage world and never before seen on a Tudor. Underneath is an in-house Tudor movement, another big change from the vintage models. Playing with a classic is a dangerous game and a misstep can end up ruining something beloved. Tudor has towed the line just right, making one classic out of another. Tudor Black Bay Bronze, $3,975, tudorwatch.com
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SPONSORED
PVD AND THE BLACK BAY DARK Tudor’s Black Bay Dark is proof that an allblack watch is not a tired cliché. Not entirely monochrome, this incarnation of the brand’s mainstay dive watch is anything but the status quo. The piece is nearly identical to the similarly-named Black Bay Black, only the stainless steel case, bezel ring, crown, and optional bracelet have been made to match the inky black dial and bezel insert. To do this, Tudor has used physical vapor deposition (PVD) to apply a layer of dark titanium carbide on top of the steel base. Not only does the coating add color, it’s also many times harder than the steel on its own and highly resistant to corrosion, making the Black Bay Dark the two things all modern dive watches should be: sleek and tough. Tudor Black Bay Dark, $4,150; tudorwatch.com
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) Tudor Oyster Submariner, 1955. Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner, 1977. Tudor Black Bay Dark. 7
Saxon Strength
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Its latest Datograph proves that A. Lange & Söhne is far from done with the modern icon. Few watches garner as much immediate reverence from collectors as the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. Some of the world’s top watchmakers (not a few of them working for competitors) have publicly praised it as one of the great watches of the modern era. The Datograph debuted in 1999, and was the first chronograph to feature the impressive cocktail of a column-wheel mechanism, flyback functionality, an instantly jumping minute counter, and an oversized date window. Instead of stopping there, A. Lange & Söhne has continued to push the timepiece into new territory, most recently with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. “The concept was taken to further levels,” says An-
thony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne director of product development. “And this marks the preliminary peak of this development.” Retaining all the functions of the original, this new incarnation adds a one-minute tourbillon as well as a full perpetual calendar to the mix. Importantly, it does so without sacrificing style or legibility. Combine that with little touches like the white-on-black date display, its subtle moon phase, and a discrete power reserve, and the new version becomes every bit as fresh and thoughtful as the original. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, 315,900 euro, approximately $357,000, alangesoehne.com
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There is no mystery about a Girard-Perregaux, simply more than two centuries of craftsmanship and a perpetual commitment to perfection. 1966 FULL CALENDAR, STEEL CASE, 40 MM
Calibre GP 3300 Full calendar
Laser Sharp
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Cutting-edge technology from Panerai is used to pay homage to its past.
Watchmaking so often looks to the past, reviving old-school methods that require components to be assiduously assembled, just as they were hundreds of years ago. Panerai’s latest creation does just that, but also incorporates advanced manufacturing powered by digital technology. The movement that powers the Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio is made with Direct Metal Laser Sintering, an advanced 3D-printing method that’s certainly not of yesteryear. A laser is directed at titanium powder, creating layers of metal that are only 0.02mm thick. Slowly, these build up and the movement takes shape. This means the P.2005/T caliber has a lot of open space inside, with only structurally necessary metal present. It’s 35 per-
cent lighter than the last version of the movement from Panerai. The lightness doesn’t mean skimping on complexity though. There is still a one-minute tourbillon around 11 o’clock, and the barrel packs six days of power inside. Without a traditional dial (another way to cut down on weight), you can see all the mechanics at work through the sapphire crystals on both sides of the 47mm titanium case. It’s rare that a truly new technique is introduced into the traditional world of watchmaking; it’s even rarer to see one quite as technically interesting as this. Panerai Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio, $143,000, panerai.com
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CALENDAR WATCHES
Annual Event
These low maintenance calendar watches are at the forefront of their category. Calendar watches come in many different forms. The most basic is the date window shown on most of today’s timepieces. On the other end of the spectrum is the full perpetual calendar, which tells the date, day of the week, month, and year in the leapyear cycle—all without having to be adjusted, except once every 100 years when we skip a leap year. The sweet spot, though, is the annual calendar, a relatively new complication that’s currently having its moment. It foots itself one step below the perpetual calendar (it needs to be adjusted once per year at the end of February) and is mechanically simpler than the per11
petual, making for an affordable and durable alternative. The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar ($8,600) displays the months around the rim of the pie-pan dial with a central hand, and uses the usual date window at 6 o’clock. It’s also Master Chronometer certified, so it’s about as accurate a watch as exists today. Stripping things back to just the essentials is the Ochs und Junior Annual Calendar (from 7,400 CHF, approximately $7,600), which has no markings or branding on the dial. The outer ring of dots tracks the date, while the smaller rings track the 12 months and the 7 days, respectively. The mechanism itself is just as simple, using only five extra gears on top of the movement to add all the calendar functions. It’s precise and simple engineering with good looks to match.
The Light Side
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Rado fuses new materials and zen inspiration for a featherweight offering. Ceramic watches conjure up visions of glossy monochromatic pieces so sleek they teeter on the edge of austere. As the decades-long master of the material, Rado has now taken it in a decidedly softer direction. The HyperChrome Ultra Light starts with a silicon nitride ceramic that is both stronger and lighter than ceramic usually used in watchmaking. It’s also more difficult to produce, requiring a much higher temperature for firing. Set into the sides of this timepiece are titanium panels for additional structural support. Both elements are sand-
blasted, not polished, for a subtler, less flashy look. “We started with this incredibly hard and light material which is typically only used for aerospace or hard tools applications,” says Hakim El Kadiri, Rado vice president of product management. “We had to adapt it to the watch industry, where aesthetic requirements are much higher.” Mission accomplished. Lurking inside, though, is another innovation: a movement with aluminum bridges. Making its mechanical components is particularly painstaking, complicated by different tools and
modified manufacturing techniques. It might be underneath the watch’s combed zen garden–inspired dial, but it also might be the watch’s most important innovation. The result of all of this is a featherweight limited-edition watch (only 500 will be made). The entire package, including the nylon strap and 43mm watch itself, weighs in at just 56 grams. Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light, $2,850, rado.com
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L I F E
I S
A B O U T
M O M E N T S
C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0
CLIFTON STEEL, 43 MM SELF-WINDING www.baume-et-mercier.com
New Standards
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The American pioneer of railroad watches continues to move steadily forward. For the majority of 19th century, time zones and standardized time didn’t exist. It wasn’t until railroads started to snake between the world’s largest cities and smallest towns that there became a need to unify timekeeping across long stretches of land. Seeing an unfulfilled need, Ball created timepieces to keep train conductors prompt. Today, 125 years later, a dressier take on its classic formula commemorates the anniversary. At first glance, the Trainmaster Manufacture looks like a relatively standard dress watch. However, there is much more to its slim 40mm 18k rose gold case, silvery dial with delicate numerals and straight batons, and subtle date window at 3 o’clock. Under all of that is Ball’s first in-house movement, the RRM1101, with a 38-hour power reserve and 25 jewels. It’s the fine details that really set the Trainmaster apart: The hour and minute hands aren’t just painted
with luminous material, but rather use Ball’s signature micro gas tubes, which are actually tiny vessels filled with glowing tritium gas. It doesn’t rely on sunlight to be charged, and it glows dozens of times brighter than the alternative, not unlike the Trainmaster itself. Ball Trainmaster Manufacture, 8,000 CHF, approximately $8,200, ballwatch.com SURFACE WATCH GUIDE
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WORLD TIMERS
Global Priorities
The best complement to an always-packed carryon and platinum status is a proper worldtimer. The smartest time-telling solution for the serial traveler-cum-watch lover is a classic worldtimer, with its complication displaying the time in two dozen international cities at once. The basic form is pretty simple. There is a ring listing world cities, usually 24, and a second ring marked with the hours. In addition to the usual hands, the two discs rotate so that the hours line up with the correct places on earth throughout the day and night. You can quickly glance and know that it’s breakfast in Buenos Aires and happy hour in Tokyo. 15
You won’t fi nd a more classic example than the Patek Philippe Ref. 5230 ($47,000). It has a clean layout for the discs and a guilloché central dial with a charcoal gray lacquer fi nish. Adjusting the sleek hands to a new local time is as simple as tapping the pusher at 10 o’clock. For something a little more playful, Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum ($5,900) features a colorful map of the northern hemisphere at the center of the dial, shaded to show the average climate in the different cities. As night falls on different parts of the world, they go dark, then reveal their colors again once when the sun rises. Now, if only worldtimers provided a cure for jet lag.
Time Honored
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On the occasion of its 225th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux pays tribute to an icon. Pocket watches might be a rarity for the modern man, but the history of the dandy timekeeping device remains on his wrist. Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda, an 1889 pocket watch, won the prestigious gold medal for its escapement system at that year’s Universal Exposition in Paris, and has since served as the foundation for many of the brand’s more contemporary wristwatches. “It is a unique case in the history of watchmaking,” says Antonio Calce, Girard-Perregaux global CEO. Thus, for its 225th anniversary, the brand is celebrating the impact of founder Constant Girard (and his iconic tourbillon with three gold bridges) with a wrist-worn homage. The La Esmeralda Tourbillon is extremely faithful to its pocket-bound predecessor: “It has the same same type of guilloché and décor on the main plate and the barrel, same shape for the tourbillon carriage, same bridges with bevelled arrows and rounded off arms, and same screwed gold chatons for the jewels,” Calce says. All the while, it offers a look fitting for a 21st century wearer. Adds Calce: “It’s a modern expression of watchmaking, paying tribute to its ancestor.” Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon, $192,000, girard-perregaux.com
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neomatik from NOMOS Glashßtte: watches with the automatic movement of the next generation. Incredibly slender, highly precise—and now available with selected retailers. Find out more at nomos-glashuette.com, nomos-store.com.
She’s the One
WOMEN’S WATCHES
Great design and well-engineered mechanics aren’t just for men. The niche world of timepieces is too often dominated by men, but women’s watch design is taking a stilettoed step towards the spotlight. The proof is in the breadth of ladies offerings that circumvent the field’s passé tendency to either shrink down men’s styles or encrust hyper-feminine silhouettes in diamonds and mother of pearl. This year, brands have taken note of the opportunity— and power—of this market, with numerous watchmakers tailoring their selections to provide what women actually want from a timepiece.
Smart feminine design takes shape in pieces that balance innovation, modern style, and boldness. Roger Dubuis, for example, presented predominately women’s styles (shown here, the Black Velvet, $59,300) at this year’s SIHH watch fair in Geneva, and premiered a made-for-ladies bi-retrograde complication. Cartier and Piaget continue to create timeless wrist staples with the former’s 18k rose gold Crash Skeleton (an update to last year’s sold-out platinum version, $68,500), and the latter’s Limelight Stella ($20,500), which is the brand’s
first complication watch made just for lady enthusiasts. From Uniform Wares, a recently launched line entirely of women’s watches ( from $40 0) reflects the brand’s minimalist aesthetic, with thoughtfully slim sizing. In some cases, however, the downsized version of a men’s watch is exactly what a non-male customer seeks, like with Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Dual Time—its 39mm steel case is perfect for a female wearer.
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WOMEN’S WATCHES
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Traditional Values
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Mühle-Glashütte pays tribute to its founder with a quintessentially German watch.
German watchmaking is distinct from Swiss watchmaking. It has its own traditions, its own styles, and its own founding fathers. In 1869, Robert Mühle founded his eponymous watchmaking workshop in Glashütte, a tiny town in the hills of Saxony. On what would have been Herr Mühle’s 175th birthday, the brand remains steadfast, and honors its founder with a modern watch that upholds the standards of yesteryear. The Robert Mühle Zeigerdatum combines a stainless steel case and anthracite dial for a decidedly clean look, punctuated by the lone numeral at 12 o’clock. In addition to the hour and minute hands, there are three subdials. The seconds are displayed at 6 o’clock and the date over at 9 o’clock.
Opposite, at 3 o’clock, is the indicator for the 56-hour power reserve, labeled “auf-ab” in the usual German style. The real heritage, though, is on the inside. The hand-wound RMK 03 movement, designed by Mühle-Glashütte, contains a total of 180 components, 33 of which are the jewel bearings that keep the watch running accurately. Three of the jewels are specially set in gold chatons—a traditionally German method. There’s also the large three-fifth plate that covers most of the top of the movement, leaving only the balance wheel, the engraved balance cock, and a dedication to German watchmaking revealed. Mühle-Glashütte Robert Mühle Zeigerdatum, 7500 euro, approximately $8,450, muehle-glashuette.de SURFACE WATCH GUIDE
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THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Best of the Year From minute repeaters to iconic chronographs, these are the top timepieces of 2016.
H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue A stainless steel perpetual calendar with absolutely no writing on the dial—an anomaly worth endorsing. H. Moser strips away the unnecessary clutter from its most recognizable watch, leaving the blue fumé dial wide open to catch the light at every angle. The little arrow at the center points towards one of the twelve hours to count the months—and the date will always be correct, even in a leap year. $66,000, h-moser.com 21
THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Rolex Daytona Collectors and Rolex fans have waited with baited breath to adorn their wrists with this watch. The combination of a black Cerachrome bezel and a stainless steel case and bracelet, along with dials in sleek black and silver or high-contrast white and black,
give this Daytona a look and feel reminiscent of the versions from the piece’s 1970s heyday. It’s subtleties are proof that greatness does not necessarily come from staging a revolution. $12,400, rolex.com
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THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Boréal A multi-decade veteran of Patek Philippe, Laurent Ferrier set out on his own in 2012 to create his namesake watch brand. It immediately became a favorite amongst those in the watch world’s inner circle. The Galet Traveller Boréal is a variation on his classic travel watch, with a second timezone shown at 9 o’clock. With luminous material set into the black-on-black dial in a pattern meant to evoke both the Northern Lights and vintage watches, this one might look even better in the dark. $58,000, laurentferrier.ch
Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P Watch snobs tend to scoff at anything that isn’t purely mechanical, but Piaget’s new electro-mechanical marvel might convince them to step off their high horses. Combining a mechanical power system (no battery here) with an electronic timekeeping system, this piece combines many of the benefits of a mechanical watch with the added accuracy of a quartz watch. Piaget has even skeletonized the movement and placed the winding rotor up front, so the innovative movement is always on display. $70,000, piaget.com
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THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Jaquet Droz Grande Second Dual Time Ivory Enamel Enameling might be centuries-old art, but when done right it can be markedly modern. The masters of grand feu enamel at Jaquet Droz see this dial fi red at an extremely high temperature to achieve the bright, piercing-white color that offsets the inky black and rich colored numerals. To further hone their craft, the enamel is applied in layers, allowing for the subtle stepped effect on the subdials at 6 o’clock, which show the seconds, date, and second timezone. $26,800, jaquet-droz.com
IWC Pilots Watch Automatic 36 Over the last few years, watch brands have woken up to consumers wanting more moderately sized timepieces. The days of dinner-plate watches are long gone. For its latest crop of pilot’s watches, IWC has released a companion to the flagship Mark XVIII that comes in at just 36mm, only slightly larger than the watches IWC made for military pilots in the 1950s. It shares a lot of details with the larger model, including the easy-to-read numerals and broad sword-shaped hands. Despite the antique sizing, the watches wear perfectly today and the blue dial version in particular can be easily dressed up with a crocodile strap or dressed down for the weekend with a nylon Nato strap. $3,950, iwc.com
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THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Making a sleek, modern-looking minute repeater entirely out of titanium is a bold enough move, but Bulgari decided to make the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater today’s thinnest minute repeater to boot. The svelte 6.85mm 25
thick titanium case has angular lugs that wear extremely well on the wrist. Pushing the button at 9 o’clock sets the mechanics in motion, chiming out the hours, quarter hours, and minutes on tiny gongs hiding behind back. Cut-
ting the numerals out of the titanium dial is a nice finishing touch, providing a glimpse of the complicated movement lurking behind. $155,000, bulgari.com
THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Greubel Forsey Signature 1 Known for making watches with multiple tourbillions and nearly million-dollar price tags, Greubel Forsey decided to offer a new entry-level watch. Or at least as close to entry-level as the masters of hand-finishing and dramatic movement architecture can get. The Signature 1 has no tourbillon,
only displays the time, and is sized to be wearable on a daily basis. The main components are still exposed though, letting its wearer admire the mirror polishing, hand-beveling, and frosting that adorns the surfaces. From $170,000, greubelforsey.com
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THE BEST-DESIGNED WATCHES OF 2016
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Sometimes tampering with something as immediately recognizable as the Royal Oak is a recipe for disaster, but with this watch, Audemars Piguet has added full perpetual calendar functionality to its most classic design while retaining the best aspects of the original. By using bold typography on the dial and bright hands, legibility is maintained and the extra information doesn’t get in the way of the grand tapisserie dial or the signature eight-sided bezel. Stainless steel might be the conservative option here, but the yellow gold model with the deep blue dial is the sleeper hit of the bunch. $60,900 steel, $95,700 gold, audemarspiguet.com
Cartier Drive It’s rare that Cartier introduces an entirely new shape to its lineup, but the Drive is just that. It’s neither round nor a true cushion, instead offering something between a soft square and a circle that provides a lot of space for the large Roman numerals to breathe on the dial. Underneath is an in-house automatic movement from Cartier’s cutting-edge watchmaking department, one of the brand’s most under-sung assets. It’s a little early to say, but in a few decades the Drive could be every bit as iconic as the Tank. $6,250 steel, $19,300 rose gold, cartier.com
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Golden Hour
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Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Chronograph Complete Calendar is a nod to the midcentury. The prevalence of throwback midcentury design has crept into interiors, architecture, and furniture—and watches are no exception. At the heart of Baume & Mercier’s collection of Swiss-made timepieces is Clifton, a series of men’s and women’s watches that are informed by vintage pieces from the brand’s archives, specifically the Golden Fifties models. First unveiled in 2013, the Clifton models all share a core simplicity, round faces, and crisp, easy-to-read displays. The latest addition to the family is the Clifton Chronograph
Complete Calendar. While a clean aesthetic, handsome numerals, and a pared-down case recall elements of its predecessors, its inner workings are of the present day. The automatic movement has both chronograph and calendar complications integrated into it, with day, date, month, day/night, and moon phase indicators all accounted for. The piece is a timeless example of transforming traditional midcentury design into classic modern styles. Baume & Mercier Clifton Chronograph Complete Calendar, from $4,990, baume-et-mercier.com SURFACE WATCH GUIDE
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VINTAGE WATCHES
Venturing into vintage timepieces is taking a deep dive into a bottomless pit of knowledge, curiosity, and venerable novelties. It can also be intimidating and opaque, and first-time buyers often have to make a decision on faith alone. It doesn’t have to be that way. Here, five simple rules for purchasing: 1. Original Always Wins A decades-old watch that looks shiny and new might sound appealing, but not if that’s because it’s been polished up or the dial has been repainted. The more original a piece remains, the more value it holds. 2. Look Inside Ultimately, a watch is a tiny machine, and it needs to do more than just look good—it has to work well, too. Take a peek inside the back of the watch to get a glimpse at the movement. Knowledge of its technicalities isn’t necessary—just make sure it’s clean, with engravings still visible and no rusting. 3. Beyond Big Brands Rolex and Patek Philippe are unquestionably the kings of vintage watches, but those aren’t the only labels with interesting pieces. A relatively unknown brand like the now-defunct Universal Genéve is a collectors’ favorite, and Heuer and Breitling still have name recognition but lower prices that present great value. 4. Too Good is Always Too Good There’s a fine line separating a one-ofa-kind, never-before-seen gem from a piece of dressed up junk worth pennies. If something looks or sounds like it’s too good to be true, that’s probably because it is. It’s the simplest rule, but it’s also the first one that slips the mind in the moment. 5. Buying the Dealer Like any relationship, trust is key. It’s vital to have confidence in the seller. It is, after all, their taste, good judgement, and character that you’re buying into. Dealers 10PastTen, Analog/Shift, HQ Milton, and Matthew Bain are all reliable, provide good service, and stock a breadth of pieces. PHOTOS: ATOM MOORE COURTESY ANALOG/SHIFT.
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Buying Time
Tips for navigating the world of vintage watches.
Mother of Reinvention
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Vacheron Constantin offers a new take on a watch that once changed the face of the maison.
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 222nd anniversary in 1977, it did so in an unexpected way. Rather than being informed by its archives, a completely fresh concept was released with a look and feel that defied the offerings of the past two centuries. The 222 had a stainless steel case with an integrated bracelet and an almost brash Studio 54 look. Now, nearly 40 years down the road, the 222 has become one of the brand’s most recognizable creations, but because only a few hundred were made they can be hard to track down. Vacheron has decided to make it a little easier on anxious collectors, releasing the Overseas Ultra-Thin, an extremely faithful tribute to the 222 with a handful of modern updates.
The biggest change is one that is noticeable the moment you pick it up: This watch is solid 18k white gold, rather than stainless steel. The maltese cross bracelet can easily be swapped out for rubber or alligator straps (they come included) sans tools thanks to a new quick-change system. Importantly, Vacheron Constantin is using the very same movement to power this watch that was used in the original 222. The Overseas Ultra-Thin is a tribute through and through, not just on the surface. Vacheron Constantin Overseas UltraThin, $55,700, vacheron-constantin.com
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Seebataillon GMT Mühle Glashütte’s CEO, Thilo Mühle, participated in The Fulda Challenge—an extreme Winter sports competition that With
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Grand Cru
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Champagne wishes and neon dreams are a new mainstay at Nomos Glashütte. In celebration of its in-house, ultra-thin automatic movement, the DUW 3001, Nomos Glashütte created a limited first-edition series of watches with champagne dials and neon orange accents. To satiate the appetites of fawning collectors, the German watchmaker has added slight adaptations to the pieces to the core lineup (the changes are to preserve the collectability of the originals). Four of the models, the Tangente, Orion, Metro, and Ludwig, are variations on older Nomos watches that have been in the collection for years, while the fifth,
the Minimatik, was first introduced along with the DUW 3001 last year. Even the most familiar silhouette, the Tangente, takes on a noticeably augmented—and slightly friendlier—appearance from its fair dial and bright, playful touches. Beyond the color palette, what unifies these five watches is the DUW 3001 ticking away inside. It comes in at an incredibly thin 3.2mm, but is still automatically wound with a swinging rotor mounted to the back. Nomos makes everything in-house, down to the regulating system, letting the company control the fine tolerances inherent in a movement like this. By balancing sharp engineering with soft looks, Nomos has proved, once again, that not all great watches come from Switzerland. Nomos Neomatic Champagner Collection, from $3,480, nomos-glashuette.com
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Making the Band
WATCH ACCESSORIES
Top leathers and pristine craftsmanship give Hermès watch straps the upper hand. It’s no surprise that Hermès makes the top watch straps in the world, given its expertise in luxury leather goods (hello, Birkin bag). While the French design house has been making the ultimate timepiece accoutrements since the early 20th century when wristwatches went mainstream, it opened a new dedicated workshop in 2006 that is creating today’s gold standard. Behind its doors, the know-how for creating straps is impressive. Each piece is hand patterned on large pieces of leather to perfectly match the texture and color of the material. After
being carefully cut and thinned, a fabric layer is added between the upper and lower layers. Only then can the stitching, body shaping, and edge finishing take place—all of which is done by hand. Finally, keeper loops are added and the Hermès brand is stamped on the inside. The range of material options includes the same variety of skins found across the label’s accessories range, like supple Barenia and textured Epsom grain leathers (from $275), exotic ostrich skin (from $375), and alligator (from $575). Most are offered as a standard single wrap or the signature Double Tour, made famous by the maison’s Cape Cod watch (and now the Apple Watch, too). Sure, the strap choice is obvious—it’s finding a watch that’s worthy of it that’s the challenge. hermes.com
SURFACE WATCH GUIDE
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LUMINOR 1 950 8 D AYS G M T A C C I A I O - 4 4 M M ( R E F. 2 3 3 )
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This watch embodies three complications. Here, you can see two of them.
Two of the three complications of the Datograph
be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback: the
Perpetual Tourbillon can be recognised at first sight:
tourbillon with patented stop seconds. Thanks to this ingen-
the perpetual calendar with instantan eously advancing
ious mechanism, the watch not only runs very accurately
displays and the flyback chronograph with the precisely
but can also be set precisely to the second. Mechanical virtu-
jumping minute counter. The third complication can
osity – at first and second sight. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at the A. Lange & SĂśhne Boutiques: Costa Mesa, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol Street, CA 92626, Tel. +1 657-205-4555 Miami, 140 NE 39th Street, FL 33137, Tel. +1 305-908-4420 New York, 785 Madison Avenue, NY 10065, Tel. +1 646-828-3150