SURGE 2.0

LOKELA NITTA WITH AN ANIMAL REVERSE | PH: JAMIE BALLENGER | HAWAIIANWATERSHOTS.COM

VERSION2.0

PUBLISHER SURGE MEDIA GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR Richard Pata surgebodyboarding@yahoo.com EDITOR Evan Fa ematthewfa@gmail.com PHOTO EDITOR Maurice Aubuchon halfripe@hotmail.com ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Colin McGillivray ccmphotos@gmail.com REGIONAL EDITORS East Coast Nicola Lugo nicolalugo@gmail.com West Coast Tyler Wiemann tylerwiemann@gmail.com COPY EDITOR Greg Tindall tindallgreg@gmail.com CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Maurice Aubuchon, Colin McGillivray, Nicola Lugo, Sacha Specker, David Baker, Edwin Morales, Andrew Chisholm, Patrick Grady, Chris Allen, Alex Verharst, Carlos Santana, Clark Little, Chris Burkard, Caleb Davenport, Bret Winners, Bryan Pezman, Adam Warmington, Joe Grodzen, Greg Nielson, Matt Vaughn, Warren Anderson, Mitch Nibbs, Zach dela Cruz, Andrew Rams, Aaron Goulding, Alessandro Masciotti, Damien Antioco, Jeff Yusa, Matt Byzak, Joseph Libby, Justin Mack, Shea Sevilla, Jeff Blege, Andrew Herch, Joyner, Jeremy Phillips, Marty Kooistra, Ron Ziebell, Nick Arant, Joshua Shelly, Matt Clark, Dave Weedall, Martin Yelland, Tim McCaig, Martin Justinevicius, Elmo Ramos, Chase Miller, Ricardo Faustino, Rich Bean, Pedro Ferreira, Jay Vodipija, Andrew Herchakowski, Scott Sporleder, Aaron Mizushima, Jon Alexander, Evan Conway, Bob Baldwin, Ricky Miller, Manuel Velez, Gabriel Padial, Dane Grady, Chad Barlow, Evan Fa, Julien Durand, Jordan Stallard, Conan Whitehouse, Michael Bolton, James Dawson, Wes Broshears, Eddie Olmeda, Neal Miyake, Nicholas Seymour, Bryan Cabalce, Nick Borgens, Manuel Gonzalez, Mike Neal, Jo Bessen, Jimmie Hepp, BJ Yeager, Justin Pirtle, Carey Trabue, Nic de Jesus, Jamie Ballenger, Keaka Gonsalves CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Chris Won Taloa, Greg Tindall, Glen Thurston, Adam Burton, Joe Suzuki, Ryan Frazzetta, Jason Bitzer, Al Rumbos, Nicholas Seymour, Anthony Olayon, Robert Isambert, Marcus Rodrigues, Alistair Taylor,Claudia Ferrari, Edwin Morales, Joseph Libby, Robbie Crawford, Hauoli Reeves, Nicola Lugo, Elmo Ramos SurgeBodyBoarding.com online magazine is published by Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding. com. Reproduction of any material requires the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 速 2010. All rights reserved. The opinions in the articles are those of the authors and may not reflect the views of Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com and the advertisers. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of all advertisements. Advertisements and articles are accepted upon the representation that the author / agency, or advertiser will indemnify and save Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com of all claims and legal action. Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com does not assume responsibility for unsolicited contributions. All photos should be submitted to Surge Media Group Attn: Photo Editor at surgebodyboarding@yahoo.com.

Advertising rates available upon request. Contributors retain all rights to their contributions.

Surge Media Group P.O. Box 54944 Irvine, CA 92619 Email: surgebodyboarding@yahoo.com

A GREEN GEM | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM

[CONTENTS2.0] THE RETURN OF BRIAN WISE MOANA ORA | TAHITI THREE PHASES OF WEDGE BRIGGS VILORIA PROFILE BODYBOARDING & WATER PHOTOGRAPHY UP & DOWN | BIG ISLANDERS IN WEST OZ LONGEVITY IN THE WATER JUST OUR LUCK SURGE EMPTIES SURGE SHAPER | PMA CHUY SILVA PROFILE THE HURRICANE ROAD LOCALISM | TOLD BY CHRIS WON TALOA SANDY BEACH HAWAII USBA | BEHIND THE LINES THE DK LIFE SURGE ARTIST | EUKARETZ LADIES CHAMP | KARLA COSTA TAYLOR SURGE LADIES A CANARY STORY | EL FRONTON HAWAIIAN WATERMAN KAINOA MCGEE CABO FREAK FEST STYLE & POWER SURGE BUZZ [ ON THE COVER: JARED HOUSTON PHOTO BY: MAURICE AUBUCHON ]

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JJ AYALA | PH: NICOLA LUGO

Chout!

Richard Lornie Presented by Turbo Surf Designs, Emerald Surf City, Surge Bodyboarding, and Luminair Clothing

Within The Drift Productions / Eric Schnitzler Presented by The Drift Productions, Pride, Fur Suits, Haumaru.com, HTD

“Chout can stand for several different things. “Check out,” “Watch out,” or “Chill out” are the most common. In some circles, this is used as the dominant verb for everything.”

A few years since his first release, The Drift, Eric Schnitzler has been behind the camera working on Within in the Canary Islands and his home on Tahiti. Similar to his first release, Within emphasizes the local talent. In this case, he really digs deep into Tahiti and Canary Islands. From Niko Richard, David Tauruu, and Julien Miremont in Tahiti to Nelson Mora, Igor Sanchez, and the rest of the crew in the Canaries, there isn’t a dull moment. These riders, and many other familiar and unfamiliar names, all define what high performance bodyboarding is today.

The video hovers around the hour mark without becoming a bore. That is a feat hard to come by with bodyboarding flicks. Eric and Niko’s board mount segments provide a good variation from the ordinary surf porn. In addition, the soundtrack is a well-rounded mix of hip-hop, electro, and indie, giving the movie an easy going feel.

All things considered, Within is worth every penny.

Especially considering it is the first bodyboard video to be released on both DVD and BluRay. So it’ll make a perfect addition to any and every bodyboarder’s collection.

Chout! is Richard Lornie’s first video. It is well knit together with a variety of Hawaiian and Australian rippers. With debut sections from Maui’s Jacob Romero and SA’s Jared Houston, the video has enough action to sink a battleship.

The amount of slabs and high performance bodyboarding will make you numb. Not to mention, Richard has a knack for catching the action from some interestingly unique angles.

The only down side to the video is that the soundtrack is a little redundant. Besides that nothing should keep any bodyboarder from throwing down for this insane video.

So you better Chout!

TO PURCHASE CHOUT CLICK HERE>>

TO PURCHASE WITHIN CLICK HERE>>

TRAVERSE A Claws & Teeth Film / Dan Nicholls Presented by Nomad

THE LACKEY PROJECT Matt Lackey Presented by Nomad

Film can be an extension of one’s personal take on a subject, much like a pen to paper for a poet or an open canvas to a filmmaker. In his follow up to the Roam series, Dan Nicholls accomplishes much of how he feels about bodyboarding in Traverse, which is a fast-paced ethereal time warp. With segments from some of the best upstarts like Adam Luehmann and Alex Halsey and the rest of the Nomad team, Chris James, Matt Lackey, and Sacha Specker, Traverse keeps a modern flow of montage from rider to rider in a seamless edit akin to an old favorite, Scotty Carter’s The Inside. Hardy, Costes, and Rawlins then round off the video with the polished styles that have made them household names.

The soundtrack for Traverse is an eclectic mix of trashy indie rock to slamming metal for the Jono Bruce and Nick McNeill sequences. Jono has long been one of the most sought after technical styles in bodyboarding for years. (Just a side note, he ended up shooting the footage for Traverse with a broken wrist.) All in all, Traverse will make a great addition to any bodyboarder’s collection.

Cheers to Dan on this one!

Produced by the DK wiz himself, Matt Lackey, I knew there was a lot of passion and hard work behind The Lackey Project. Two years in the making, investment upon investment into cinematic equipment, extensive travel, a nod to every worthy DKer in the scene, and new Roach footage … equals a recipe for explosion.

There hasn’t been a masterpiece like The Lackey Project since Fumanchu. Lackey does a good job covering his bases with DKers from all the different regions around the globe. In addition, the music was well thought out, thus setting the vibe for the movie, with an onslaught of head banging classics and new school—AC/DC, Pink Floyd, Rush, Metallica, Danzig, Anthrax, and so on.

With Roach more elusive these past few years, even a legacy to some, the tail-throwing master himself appears in top “farking” form. He will silence any and everyone proclaiming, “DK is dead.” So gather your friends around the “tele” with a bumping sound system, crank it loud and pay homage to one of those instant classics.

TO PURCHASE TRAVERSE CLICK HERE>>

TO PURCHASE THE LACKEY PROJECT CLICK HERE>>

Alternative Surf Seal Beach, CA “Out of the water I am nothing. In the water the rest of the world means nothing.” If you understand this quote, you can understand why I’m living a dream as we continue the legacy of Alternative Surf in Seal Beach, California.

After fifteen years in business, Alternative Surf was within days of closure. Former professional bodyboarder, Ron “Rondog” Ziebell, was closing up shop in order to concentrate on his recovery from the tragic accident at The Wedge in Newport Beach.

Since Ron purchased Alternative Surf in March 2006, the shop served as a place where riders, both local and all over the world, would stop by and hang out. Undoubtedly, the shop was also a part of my life. The thought of losing it would have been such a huge loss.

As a result, my family purchased Alternative Surf from Ron last year. After purchasing it, we had two weeks to spruce it up before opening day. With the help of our awesome staff working day and night, we did it. We celebrated opening day with professional riders Jeremy Wright and Rusty Friesen. Although it was a rainy day in Southern California, that didn’t stop the entourage of bodyboarders from stopping by and showing support.

We have plans to expand the reach and reputation of Alternative Surf. For example, our fresh new online store will launch soon. In addition, we are looking for riders to fill our team. Over the years, many professional riders have represented Alternative Surf. Professionals like Spencer Skipper, Mark Klein, Brian Stoehr, Jimmy Hutaff, Joe Grodzen, and Jeremy Wright. Alternative Surf has also had a strong legacy of supporting amateur riders like Drew Erichson, Matt Hamilton, Charles Marabella, and Nick Arant. Like it has always been, we want to build a team that will have the same positive energy of Alternative Surf both in and out of the water.

The staff at Alternative Surf is always here to help you find what you need to get in the water for an amazing session. We are all bodyboarders who know our stuff. So come on by to talk with us, hang out on the couch, watch a DVD, and enjoy the sport of bodyboarding. A new beginning is upon us. Join us for the ride.

Check out Alternative Surf @ http://www.alternativesurf.com/

PHOTOS COURTESY OF: ALTERNATIVE SURF

Falcon’s BodyBoard Shop Encinitas, CA Justin Faulconer is owner of Falcon’s Bodyboard Shop along the historic Hwy 101 in Encinitas, California. It opened its doors this past April 2010 as it is the San Diego County’s sole bodyboarding shop. Justin chose Encinitas was chosen for a few reasons: 1. He is born and raise here 2. Encinitas has a well established surf culture 3. Encinitas lies in close proximity with the heavily bodyboarded areas of La Jolla and Oceanside.

Justin rode for his high school surf team growing up, and his passion for the sport has never deterred. With a knack for business, he decided to open shop close to home. The mission of Falcon’s Bodyboard Shop is to provide the best in customer service and professional advice. Although Falcon’s is small, quaint, and a little funky, rest assure that Falcon’s will suit all your bodyboarding needs.

Visit their webpage at www.falconsbodyboardshop.com or stop by and check them out the next time you’re in the San Diego area!

PH: FALCONS BODYBOARD SHOP

Ph: Alex Verharst

Ph: Caleb Davenport

Ph: Shea Sevilla

Ph: Manny Vargas

Ph: Caleb Davenport

Ph: Conan Whitehouse

OTW LINE | PH: SACHA SPECKER

The Return of Brian Wise Foreword / Interview by Evan Fa Introduction by Brian Wise Foreword As always, it’s difficult figuring out which riders to do profiles on. As we tossed around the long list of names, it just seemed like we couldn’t quite establish the dynamic we were looking for. Then we locked down the Kainoa profile, which is huge, but couldn’t quite “put the nail on the coffin” on another. Then, by fate, I ran into Brian Wise at OTW one evening. After watching him drain wave after wave to shore with that patented power and finesse … light bulb! Needless to say, right after that session I chatted with the others at the mag and we concluded that Brian was the missing profile we had been searching for.

Of course, we could have done something on an up and coming Califorian, Hawaiian, or East Coast ripper, but none of them carry as much weight in the sport as Brian. Besides, there are always future issues. Although Brian never became world champ like everyone thought he would, he has earned what every bodyboarder wants—Respect. Respect that he earned by mastering big Pipe, Teahupoo, Puerto, and any other heavy wave Mother Nature has mustered the strength to throw at him. Respect that only comes through putting in time, dedication, and a hell of a lot of passion into bodyboarding. Thus, Brian merits the attention of this profile.

Initially the plan was to email Brian some questions and have him type out the answers. I would write some cliché introduction (much like this one) and, “badabing badaboom,” we would be done. As soon as I had sent the questions, though, I received a call from Brain telling me to scratch the cyber-interview and just meet up in person with a recorder to hash out the answers. So we met up at Ehukai Beach Park, sat down at one of the tables near the parking lot and talked story.

Honestly, I’m glad things went down this way. Brian is too much of character, has too much wisdom, and has had too many experiences that would have most definitely been lost if he had to vent it all into a Word Document. So with out any further rambling, I give you Brian Wise.

Introduction I am Brian Wise. I’m a professional bodyboarder. Been living on Oahu since the early nineties. I have two daughters—an eight year old and a six year old, Hannah and Emily. I’ve gone through a lot of life changing experiences. On December 21, 2007, I got in an accident that set me back for a few years. I had broken my neck, my back, my femur, my left foot was shattered, my ankle. So I was in critical condition, internally bleeding and that led me to see life a

BW AT PIPE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

PEACE TO THE WORLD | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

little bit differently, but it didn’t happen instantly.

Too much partying, too much working, too much trying to be in the material world took me back to realize what matters. Through all of that my wife divorced me, I checked into a rehab for addictions I’ve had and just basically changed my whole way of thinking and wiring of my brain to what it is today … and to find God. Now that I have God in my life it changes my whole outlook. I find it much easier; less stress, less to impress people and more to live for barrels and, of course, to do the right things and hang around the right people.

After rehab, I still had to do physical rehab to recover from my accident, and that is when they came after me with charges for negligent injury and sentenced me to one year in OCC—Oahu Correctional Center. Prison.

Then I went to the feds, which was a great experience.

Prison life is not for anybody, but it’s a place where, if you already have your head screwed on, you can better yourself. You can definitely closer yourself to the Lord, definitely better your education and learn about why people just actually like to live in prison; because in America, we do have a lot of people that live in prisons.

So after that I got released on October 26th after completing a full year in prison. It was an experience in and of itself to come and surf Pipe again. I’ve been working as a carpenter and surfing Pipe pretty much since I’ve been out. This year has been blessed with really good waves. Got my girlfriend Stephanie with me after sixteen years of being away from her. Got my place. Now I’m entered into the Pipe event this year. I got my sponsors. I just got 662 Mob. I’m talking to Empire. I do have Viper.

Viper Fins has always been the most loyal sponsor in the whole bodyboarding industry. Fred Simpson, owner, is probably the smartest, wisest man I know. I really, really am stoked and blessed to ride for Viper.

As of today, I just got out from Rock Piles. The swell is turning more North. And the circus is in town.

Surge: You were once considered California’s hope for a World Champion. What do you think hindered you from taking the title?

BW: I had a really good time on the PSAA. I won a lot of the contests that I wanted to win. Ones that I was focused on. Then I got a little bit older and grew out of that. I found the politics of the whole sport disappointing, so I withdrew from the contest scene. That’s when I moved to Tahiti to get away from the politics. I didn’t like the pressure of seeing people not get what they deserved and seeing people get things that you wouldn’t imagine they deserved. And it’s not even the riders’ fault, but it’s the way the industry worked. So the pressure of being a world champ is not what it seems.

And that’s my plan for this whole come back. It’s not just for me but also to help the sport. To help the kids,

AIR REVO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

because I see a lot of the kids falling into the same footsteps that I did.

Surge: Unfortunately, there are politics in everything ... even bodyboarding. You been around long enough to witness the US industry undergo some major changes over the past decade. Do you miss the earlier days?

BW: Well, I’m working on my contract right now and it’s like, Wow! Back then Wave Rebel really took care of us as a team. Bodyboarders had more of a budget to work with.

Well, I earned it more because I’d done so many contests and promos, so my budget was pretty high for travel. I’d also spend my winnings on travel. My budget was something like $15K-$20K just for travel. So it was nice. I was able to go all around the world. That’s when the GOB had just started. I thought it was a party tour. Girls and guys and, man, we’d have the biggest parties after a contest. So I’m interested, not in the party aspect, but the part of get-

ting back on the world tour to promote America.

Surge: Yeah, riders would die to have a travel budget like that today. What’s your whole take on US Bodyboarding? What do you think it needs?

BW: You know, this is all formative opinion for everyone of us. I see a lot guys coming into it trying, but it’s hard because there’s not a lot of backing. Then there are guys that are showtime and there are guys that just do what they do. As for showtime, I mean they are more landshow than watershow. I feel we have a lot of room to grow, which we probably will with the right guys, the right mentors, and the older guys directing the younger guys.

As in all sports, we need the history of our sport and the future of our sport. Without the history we aren’t going to have a future. So America itself needs to work on making sure that the older guys have some say, some part, because they have the experience. Kind of like when you

talk to your grandpa, you know. He’s going to tell you the wisest things that you may not understand, but as you get older you’re probably going to go, “Wow, he was right!”

All sports back their history to improve their sport.

Surge: True. Well put. It seems like a lot of the up and coming generation doesn’t know the sport’s history.

With that much said, what are some suggestions you would give to bodyboarders looking to make a living doing it?

BW: Making a living bodyboarding is really not what’s going to happen. For me, it’s not about making a living but living a passion. So if you just live your passion, you never know, maybe you can make a living at it. But, honestly, don’t expect to make a living at it. It’s not a negative thing, but as far as everyone knows you normally need to have a job to live out your passion.

Surge: What’s your opinion on the Aussie predominance in bodyboarding over the past few years?

BW: It’s the whole love issue. The Australian companies are giving them more love. We can sit down and whine about it and point out why the US is not doing so well. It’s like, why is Stewart and maybe two other companies doing so well? But I think it’s mostly the progression of bodyboarding. The waves in Hawaii are good, and the waves we have in California and the mainland are … okay, but for the most part we don’t have the waves we need in America.

We have to travel more because Hawaii is seasonal. We got town, but it doesn’t get sick like Pipe.

Surge: Spoken like a true pro. All right, lets shift direction a little. During the “Summer of Love” in 1996, Mike Stewart followed that enormous south swell from Tahiti to Alaska. Coincidently, photos of you had shown

up in the mags from Tahiti, Hawaii, and California as well. We’ve heard Stewart’s story, so tell us yours.

BW: Summer of love, ahhh, ‘96. It started off in Tahiti.

I was with my past friend Matt Walbrou. He was already staying on Moorea and I was living with my friend Didea at Sapinus, which is now one of the most famous breaks in the world. So I chased this swell from Tahiti to Moorea, back to Teahupoo, to Kona side on the Big Island, then I flew from Big Island to Oahu to surf Bowls and the North Shore, because there was a north swell, too, and then to California. I surfed macking Wedge right when I got there.

That’s when I got the LA Times cover shot. Mike had got to Wedge a day later and then chased it from there to Alaska.

But I decided to stay home, which is San Clemente, Orange County, and ride the swell out.

Surge: I remember photos floating around in the mags of you surfing some out of control Tamae on Moorea?

BW: Yeah, I almost drowned at Tamae. I surfed it for four hours. It took out hotels, took out a lot of land, and that swell was massive. Even the photos don’t even look as big as it really was. Yeah, I didn’t really get many photos because everyone was late. Everyone seemed to be three hours behind on the swell at Tamae. Everyone checked it, but the only other guy that surfed Tamae was Chris Won. He surfed five waves or something.

Surge: Crazy. I remember those shots in the mags.

Looked death defying. So coming from San Clemente, how did you sharpen your style and skills in bigger waves?

BW: Back in 94 I was introduced to Tahiti and I instantly fell in love with it. My buddies Matt Walbrou and Didea took me in. I made Tahiti one of my stomping grounds.

Puerto Escondido was another, and, of course, Pipeline was my third. California became my pit stop in between all three. As far as getting my materials, get my product, get my family life in, and calm down a little bit. Visit old high school friends. Those three spots were very crucial to what made me who I am as far as my style of bodyboarding and my love for the ocean.

But as for Tahiti, I molded more in Tahiti because the crowds here in Hawaii are a little out of control, Puerto started getting crowded, and Tahiti hadn’t caught up. Obviously, it’s a lot different today. Tahiti was a spiritual place for me, so it really related well to me. Some of the heaviest drops … but it was mostly to get away from people. I also went there to get rid of one addiction and turn it into another. I would always keep bodyboarding as one of my main addictions in life, but I also had other ones like alcohol and stuff. So I tried to take a break and that would be my spot.

I had a girlfriend down there. Her name was Liza. She was an on and off girlfriend for four years. And she was one of unfortunately many girlfriends I had at the time. So that

part of my life was kind of mixed up. I was living in the world trying to get away from the world.

Surge: You are known as a Pipe bodyboarder by many.

What does it take to become such?

BW: Becoming a Pipe bodyboarder is more the experience and respect. Mostly respect over the experience. And just time. I’ve been fortunate enough to have a lot of time out at Pipe. I’m an early waker. I remember being on the beach with Hubb, before Hubb was even Hubb, paddling out behind me. How many years? It’s probably been seventeen, maybe twenty, years of solid surfing at Pipe in the morning, except for when I’ve been injured. You also have to know the community and be part of the community. It’s a big part of getting the respect out at Pipe. And giving respect. You have to give respect to get it. And then you just work your way up the chain. You don’t just jump in and think you’re going to be taming Pipe because Pipe cannot be tamed.

It gives me goosebumps just thinking about it … chicken skin, ready to go out and surf it right now. And that’s the mentality you got to have. Most of the time I don’t call it Pipe unless it’s cracking. By cracking I mean you’re in the parking lot and can hear it hitting the reef.

Surge: Which people (bodyboarders or not) have influenced the way you ride?

BW: All right, wow, this starts off way back in the day. I had a really tight crew that I grew up with at T-Street. There were so many guys—Tom Prince, Keith Spray, Cameron Steele, Frog, Kevin Baker. Keith Sasaki is one of my buddies that I traveled with a lot. Keith Sasaki used to do dropknee cutties into a spin. I took it to prone, where you do almost a round house into spin. Jay Reale, too, I traveled with him a lot. Of course, Mike Stewart had a lot of footage on video, so I took some keys off his style of riding.

Watching surfing as well. Guys who turn really hard on a surfboard. Occy is one guy that I’d watch. All in all, I’d try to mix power in my surfing and that’s how my style became the way it is. Some people like it, but not everyone is going to. That’s the fact you learn as you get older as well—it’s impossible to make everyone like you.

Surge: Thanks for taking the time to talk story BW. Are there any people you’d like to thank?

BW: I want to cue in my partner in crime, Ben Severson. And I also want to mention guys I used to and still respect—Dave Ballard, Wingnut, Nathan “Nugget” Percy.

Keith, Jay Reale, Pat Caldwell, Cameron Steele … Wow! The list goes. In Hawaii, Nakana Rivera, I’ve been surfing with him at Pipe a lot. Spencer Skipper, Dave Hubbard … those two are my Pipe buddies. Ben Player, another guy I can rely on out at Pipe. There are even a few surfers like Tamayo Perry. All these people are not just friends but people I can rely on to save my life if it comes down to it.

BW | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

BW

THE RETURN OF

BRIAN WISE

OTW BOMB | PH: SACHA SPECKER

MOANA ORA “Ocean Life”

Tahiti

Down below the equator in the South Pacific lies a chain of lush, tropical islands—The islands of French Polynesia (polynésie française). Out of its one-hundred and fifteen islands and atolls, Tahiti is the largest and most well known. Revered by the wave riding world for Teahupoo, Tahiti is much more than just “the end of the road.”

Tahiti is lush with culture and a vibrant, ocean oriented way of life.

From morning to night, the local people can be seen gardening, harvesting and husking coconut, making flower leis, fishing, va’a (canoe) training, and wave riding.

The weather on Tahiti is second to none. The wind is calm most of the year, which creates some of the glassiest conditions. Not to mention, Tahiti is a magnet for swell. Thus making it a breeding ground for bodyboarding.

The bodyboarding scene in Tahiti is unlike anywhere else in the world.

The locals enjoy wave riding for all it’s worth—the fun and pure stoke.

Duct taped, rails falling off, reverse rocker … they are still happy to charge on these board. They yell and cheer and are always smiling even when it’s fifteen feet. Not to mention, they are the coolest, friendliest people.

Tahitians like to share. Their ses-

sions are more of a group effort rather than one guy trying to have a good time. It’s typical to paddle out and have every guy in the line-up paddle over and shake your hand. During sessions, I can remember the first set waves coming in and having them look at me, wink and say, “pa’amu” (pull in).

Tahiti has some of the best bodyboarders in the world. Many of them go unnoticed. As the sport grows, their names will follow. Until then, they do it simply for the love. The local boys don’t really get caught up in status.

The simple things, the “ocean life,” are what make them happy and unique.

Our vacation started out great.

We were welcomed by family and friends. The weather was cleaning up and the Billabong Pro had just finished the day we landed. Our timing was good as the waves had been minimal.

The third day we were welcomed by solid 4-7ft waves with some 8ft+ bombs.

No one out but a French bodyboarder and a local kayaker. David Baker was on the trip documenting everything.

He was really happy with the quality of the waves and lighting. My other friends, Eli and Tony, were charging and adapting quickly on their surfboards. Yeah boys!

The session lasted almost two hours. A lot of set waves closed out the reef but there were some occasional medium-sized, perfect crystal tubes just waiting for one of us to drop in. The kayaker was charging and doing things we had never seen before.

Then a huge rogue set cleaned out everything in sight. The set even ripped Dave’s bodyboard off a buoy he had attached it to earlier, and his board ended up right next to him after he got pounded. We took it as a sign. We went in.

Later the same day, we went to Papara, a fun, popular black sand beach break. The waves looked even bigger there, about 8-10ft on the outer reef. Eli and Tony surfed while I took a break. In the late afternoon we checked some more spots and went up into the mountains to check out the view of the reefs. Around sun down we toasted fresh Hinanos to an orange sunset. The day was a success. We rode some perfect Tahitian tubes and fell in love with this wave.

For the next three to four days we scored whatever the ocean would offer. The waves were perfect and about 3-4ft every session. Local bodyboarders joined us. The locals really know their reefs and their waves. We would have fresh fruit smoothies and fresh mahi-mahi sandwiches for lunch as well all kinds of Tahitian dishes. All the sessions were very special times with the best conditions.

The buoy forecast was predicting a big swell at about 3-4 meters (12 feet) for Sunday. The direction would be a lot more south. We spent Friday and Saturday in the water getting prepared for the swell. When Sunday came, I woke up to the sound of rain, which meant the swell had probably arrived.

The morning was dark and cloudy.

Around 8AM it started to clear up, so we checked this spot known for holding big swell. Here we saw some locals

checking it and the size was not quite big enough. “Trop de Sud” (too much south), they said.

We watched for forty-five minutes and saw two 8-10ft spitters but plenty of current. We decided to go back to our favorite wave. There were four guys out and it was bigger than recent sessions. In the parking lot we saw some local friends that were going out. Dave and I set up our camera gear and went out, too. The waves were wedging really hard. Four guys rode the end bowl. Then a few surfers and a SUP went and charged the main peak.

The sets took a while to come—two waves in a set, sometimes three. Our shooting session lasted about three hours. By the end, we got great air shots and some really hollow barrels.

I wanted to catch a few waves, but for me it’s either one or the other.

Later in the week, the swell had decreased and a storm came through which created swell from a different direction. The island of Moorea was on the agenda of this trip and happened to line up with this odd, rare type of weather and swell. Island to island ferry was the plan. We packed up our gear in a car in hopes of scoring some on the outer island. The boat ride was a bit cold and rainy. Right after we arrived in the harbor we checked out the island and went searching for some waves. The storm and rain had brought

bad winds, creating onshore conditions. The waves were about 4ft with bigger sets, no one out and looking dangerous. Sight-seeing was the final decision.

We drove around the island, taking some photos, shooting video clips, relaxing and just enjoying ourselves. The time was moving by slowly but it felt good. Before we knew it we were on the other side of the island. We checked into a “fare” (house) close to the water. Everyone was happy. The sun was starting to go down. Hinanos in hand, we watched a beautiful sunset at Ha’apiti.

We woke up to rain once again.

We packed up the car and headed to the spot. Same conditions. No good.

The day sky is darker than yesterday, and it doesn’t look like we will be in the water at all today.

With no other plans, we played some football in the rain, cruised some lagoons, and enjoyed quite a bit of Hinanos. Around mid-day, Vaea, my wife, and everyone else decided to take a nap. I stayed up and enjoyed myself, just feeling so blessed and happy with our whole trip.

Hours later the sun came out as everyone woke up. I couldn’t believe it. The storm had passed. The sun was shining bright. Another aroundthe-island adventure was upon us.

We loaded up the car with the camera equipment, tripods, and cooler.

We drove around, picked some starfruit for later, and checked a few waves. The wind had lightened up. We all thought: “Let’s go check this wave one more time!” At first sight we could see that the conditions had turned on. The wave was breaking good with ten people out. The boys didn’t bring their boards and wanted to drive back but couldn’t due to the Hinanos. Luckily, I left my sponge in the car.

I saw a set break wide and no one was in the spot for it. So I sat wide, waiting and watching waves peel over the sharp, shallow reef. The waves were perfect and some whales came through the line up really close by … truly unbelievable. Orange, red and purple were pouring out of the sunset.

The session was very magical for me. To top off a great day, I ate dinner with my wife at one of our favorite places to eat on Moorea, “C’est la vie” (it’s the life).

Sensing our trip was coming to an end, the next day we headed back to Tahiti. Once we returned, local boy, David Tuarau, and my good friend, Eric Schnitzler, showed us some zones on another side of the island. The waves were great!

This side really felt like home in a way with the waves clos-

er to shore. A fresh sashimi dinner hosted by my wife’s family would follow in the evening.

Saturday was mellow. The swells had passed and the waves were gone.

Vaea and I did some shopping and packed our bags, then had a few more great meals with our family. We said our goodbyes. I took some time and thanked mother nature and Tahiti for having us on her island and sharing such great experiences with us that we would never forget. I have so much respect for Tahiti—the culture, the people, and the land. This place is a destination of happiness. When you’re on Tahiti, you will be so very happy and you will feel the ocean life, “Moana Ora”.

TAUARII ARIIHOAHOA RAMPING IT UP!

*Special thanks to my wife Vaea and the Paiman Family for always taking care of me when I’m on Tahiti, to all my friends and to all the BodyBoarders of Tahiti, you are the future, to Richard Pata at Surge BodyBoarding, David Baker photos, Eli and Tony for the epic times, Maui Thing Clothing, The Foam Company, Maui Rippers, Omni unlimited, DkorDie, My mom, dad and ohana, and everyone else who supported me through my BodyBoarding journey. Mauruuru Roa! This past September I went to an all bodyboard contest at a spot called Mitirapa. This was the first annual contest and it was big—6-10ft Hawaiian scale. I had the pleasure of helping judge and video. My photographer and friend, David Baker, was with me and we covered the whole first day of the event from a scaffolding.

I was blown away by the level of dedication and organization of the contest. There were over 2530 entries and even a DK division. I talked to the guy running the contest and his focus is to get Tahiti back on the map by holding more contests and putting it back on the world tour of bodyboarding, which really stoked me out.

When asked to write an article about The Wedge I decided

to break free from the monotony of talking about the intensity of the wave. I mean is there anyone who doesn’t already know about the power and extremity of an eight foot south swell as it’s intensified energy doubles or sometimes even triples in size before unleashing wrath on the shallow sandbars? Even if you are one of less than a few people that might not be aware of the intensity of the spot, the pictures alone will give you enough of an idea to recognize that The Wedge is deserving of its reputation as being one of the heaviest and, at times, best shorebreak this planet has to offer. With this point made I’ll go on to express the essence of this article.

After surfing the Wedge for almost twenty years now, I realized that I went through three significant changes in my views during the time frequenting the spot. They were kind of like three turning points I guess, each one teaching me a lesson in life. The first of the three phases I call innocence.

PH: MARTY KOOISTRA | MK52PHOTO.TUMBLR.COM

Phase #1 (Innocence) I was thirteen years old the first time I had the opportunity to face my fears of surfing the spot. I was riding Seal Beach and some older friends paddled up and offered to take me with them to Newport Beach. They said the swell wasn’t that good for Seal but that Wedge would be sick. I really didn’t want to go but my pride overcame my common sense and soon I was on my way sitting in the back of a beat up Volkswagen Bus with butterflies in my stomach and smoke in my nostrils as the big boys burnt down Babylon while cruising the Pacific Coast Highway. I can still remember walking up and seeing the whitewash splash high in the air long before I even saw the beach, and the feelings racing through my body as my eyes first caught sight of the break. I was humbled, scared, excited to sum it up. I was innocent.

Phase #2 (Ignorance/Arrogance) I think I was around nineteen or twenty when I realized I had began to think of myself more highly than I ought to. I had been surfing Wedge for around six or seven years. I had made friends with most of the locals and had gotten quite a few pictures in the boogie mags. I was someone important, or at least that’s what I had disillusioned myself into believing.

What an idiot I had become, way too big for my britches. I had traded my soul for my sponsors and lost touch with the truth about myself. If the older boys that took me there for my first time would have known what I was going to become, they never would have taken me. Not to mention, that they probably would have kicked my ass for selling out.

What a shame. The kid they mentored had sold out and become arrogant based off the ignorance of a self-opinion that was tainted by looking at too many of my own pictures in the magazines.

Thank God for the older Hawaiians and Californians that knocked some sense into my head, reminding me that my soul wasn’t worth trading for anything. What they did for me was priceless. And even though at the time I hated the abuse, I realize now it was because they cared. I think it’s called tough love.

UNIDENTIFIED | PH: SHEA SEVILLA

Phase #3 (Acceptance) I’m now thirty-six years old, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned it’s that I still have a lot to learn. Last week there was forty-five people out at Wedge and I can honestly say I saw a little bit of myself in every single one of them. From the innocent kid whose humbleness was evident by the fact that he never even looked up, never mind tried to call someone off a wave. To the arrogant guy who had been surfing there for five or six years and was convinced that everyone else should beat it because he was the new Wedge enforcer.

My eyes being opened to the growth I’ve gone through at this spot from innocence to arrogance to where I am now has given me acceptance of the other people that share the lineup with me every time the south swells start to show. From the humble newbie to the arrogant wannabe, to the older guy who just wants his fair share. Today I see the innocence in myself when I’m humbled by a freak freight train set and the ignorance and arrogance in myself when I yell at a kid for being no different from me when I was their age. I guess what this all makes me realize is the place where I’m most peaceful and stoked is when I’m in the mind state of accepting everything about The Wedge as being what makes it The Wedge. This is when I’m most able to enjoy my time in the water, appreciating the feeling given by the power of nature and the energy within the ocean.

WEDGE PEAK | PH: BRYAN PEZMAN | PEZPIX.COM

BEAU JOHNSTON | PH: MARTY KOOISTRA | MK52PHOTO.TUMBLR.COM

ERIC LORTON | PH: TIM MCCAIG | PHOTOTMC.COM

Briggs Viloria

By Joe Suzuki

B

riggs is one of the up and coming Newport Beach bodyboarders dosing sick airs and stepping it up in big waves. He is also a funny kid to be with out in the water—always messing around and doing something weird. At age sixteen, he has been riding Wedge for years now. His fearless approach out there has earned him stripes as one of the standouts whenever the souths slam Southern California. His riding is improving more and more each year, too, so it will be interesting to see what antics he has up his sleeve with summer just around the corner.

JS: How long have you been riding Wedge?

BV: I’ve been riding Wedge since I was in 8th grade, so I believe I was around twelve years old at that time.

JS: What do you think about big Wedge?

BV: I think of big Wedge as a sleepy monster that only wakes up a couple times a year. But when it wakes up you better be ready because it throws everything it has at you at full force.

JS: Who inspires you the most in the water?

BV: The person that probably inspires me most is Joe Suzuki. He is a couple years older than me. When he throws a nice air I want to do the same thing, so I try harder and harder just to keep up with him.

feel like forever and the cold water. I could not see myself living anywhere else with the exception of Hawaii.

JS: You have any sponsors?

BV: Currently I’m not sponsored. I would love to have a fin sponsor, though, just to keep up on all the fins I lose.

JS: What do you think about the stand ups at Wedge?

BV: The stand ups at Wedge are all right. There are some mellow guys that come out and rip it up, but then you have the guys that think they are hot stuff coming out in the water thinking they own the place. But they quickly find out they are not the alpha male.

JS: What is life like growing up in Newport Beach?

BV: Life growing up in Newport Beach is pretty mellow. We have gorgeous women running around in bikinis everywhere, beautiful weather even in the Winter, and sunsets that will blow your mind. The only downside is the wait between some swells that

JS: Who do you surf with most?

BV: I usually surf with my local Wedge buddies. You don’t want to say much because if you are known as someone who brings people the locals are not too happy with you. So I try and keep it a secret with my close buddies because we like the term “locals only” but, of course, that doesn’t happen to often.

BRIGGS VILORIA WEDGE TAKE OFF| PH: JEREMY PHILLIPS | JEREMYPHILLIPSPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

JS: Where do you want to travel most to surf?

BV: My number one destination would be Oahu, no doubt. I hope I can make it over there in the next couple years and surf the most beautiful breaks in the world.

JS: What do you think about competitions?

BV: I don’t really care for competitions. I feel no need to put pressure on myself. I just want to have fun and get shacked.

JS: Big barrel or big air?

BV: I would have to say big barrel. It’s what I dream about when I’m thinking about waves. Big barrels are what make my wishes come true.

JS: What drives you to surf bigger waves?

BV: It’s the rush it gives you. I can’t even describe the feeling when I start paddling into a macker, just flying down the face not knowing what’s going to happen next. It’s also all the locals calling my name to go on the wave, and there is no way you can’t go when that happens.

JS: Lastly, because you’re only sixteen, do you even have a driver’s license?

BV: Not right now, unfortunately. Been trying to come to a compromise with my parents; but with me ditching school all the time for waves it isn’t so easy for them to come to an agreement with me.

PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | A-FRAMEMAG.COM

“Every adult, whether he is a follower or a leader, a member of a mass or of an elite, was once a child. He was once small. A sense of smallness forms a substratum in his mind, ineradicably. His triumphs will be measured against this smallness, his defeats will substantiate it. The questions as to who is bigger and who can do or not do this or that, and to whom—these questions fill the adult’s inner life far beyond the necessities and the desirabilities which he understands and for which he plans.” - Erik H. Erikson (1902–1994), U.S. psychoanalyst. Childhood and Society, ch.

11 (1950).

Most theories on developmental psychology agree that our thoughts and outlook, our behavior and responses are shaped by the experiences of our youth. There are

some academics who will always debate this, but most people accept that what happened to them as kids influences them as adults.

As bodyboarding groms, you were conditioned to look for a certain type of wave. For some, it would become a lifelong quest to find the sickest slab imaginable, one you couldn’t handle, until finally someone conquered it... then find another one that would stretch the imagination until it snapped again.

This constant search for and stretch of the imagination is what makes the sport of bodyboarding somewhat unique.

Because bodyboarders are almost forced to look for alternative waves, they find breaks the rest of the surfing world wants noth-

ing to do with. Teahupoo, Canaries, Ours... we all know how long the list is. For most bodyboarders, though, it is just for the love of experience and connection with the ocean. For others, it is a lens through which the rest of the world can share in the experience. These other bodyboarders are better known as photographers, and for some reason, they tend to cultivate their trade in a way that has made them highly successful.

Maybe bodyboarding ingrains in water photographers what to look for in a wave. Maybe they see waves a little more clearly due to a low center of gravity. Maybe it is their conditioning in flippers. Whatever it is, the correlation between bodyboarding and water photography is well past coincidence. The connection between the two has been mentioned once or twice in the surf press, but Surge felt the need to explore the topic more in depth and contacted some of the best in the industry. Rather than drone on about why we at Surge think this is (or go too deep about developmental psychology), we sent out emails and placed calls to pick the brains of top photographers. The following is by no means a comprehensive list and the order represents nothing more than the alphabet. These are just some of the photogs we were able to get a hold of in between trips. The scenario we set up for them was simple enough: Dear Photographer, Over beers in Mexico, names were rattled off of photographers who are bodyboarders at their core, or at least that’s how they were introduced to the ocean. The list went on & on and your name came up quick, as yet another top photographer who can

trace his roots to bodyboarding. By the end of the conversation (and beers), it became clear that it’s no coincidence that bodyboarding & water photography go hand in hand. If you could expand upon why this may be, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Surge Scott Aichner Hey Surge, Because we know how to duck, dodge and weave around the incoming lip. We are comfortable there and aren’t afraid to get blasted! You could give any shorebreak rat a camera rig and they would become a very good photographer/filmer in a short period. It’s really that simple.

Scott Brain Bielmann Hmmm… well look at all the great photographers that started out as bodyboarders. That’s cause they are used to getting in tight situations, shorebreaks, etc. It is kind of a training ground for fisheye photogs. Bodyboarders seem so much looser than surfers. Maybe it was that time in my life where I was closer to their age but we did lots of crazy things, took chances and tried a lot of ideas, doing shots outside the box. There was a time when bodyboarders were taking over, doing so many futuristic moves that surfers were not doing... then Kelly Slater showed up and the recession came and sponsors were looking for a reason to drop the red-headed stepchild and it all sort of fell apart.....Still waiting to see if it will ever truly come back or if it will stay a cult sport with bodyboarders pushing the limits. When I first started shooting, Bodyboarding Mag would not run any shots that would scare the parents from buying their kids bodyboards... Now look at the extreme sport!!!!! BB Chris Burkard

credit bodyboarding for initially opening up my photographic eye to them.

Another big step in the right direction that bodyboarding lends to photography is a comfort level with flippers. It might not sound like all that big of a deal at first, but traditional surfers have to go through an adjustment period of getting used to flops on their feet in the water. For me, it is as natural as can be. Kicking around in still water is something that anyone who is halfway aquatic can do. Doing it at Pipe with housing in your hand with fifty other expert waterphotographers is a whole different deal.

Bodyboarders are used to swimming in heavy shorebreak waves, which is what you need to be able to do when you shoot big barrels or slabs and other waves that most surfers don’t want any part of. This is why bodyboarders are the pioneers of most slabs, if not all of them... remember Tahiti was first surfed by Mike Stewart.

Chris Burkard Jack English (a man of many words) hi surge, i would suggest getting a hold of ross mcbride. all the best, jack Jeff Flindt I grew up in Southern California and my dad had a one hour photo lab. Everyday, my friends and I would tear off to the beach with our boogyboards, but I always had a camera in hand.

Since the cost of film and developing it used to be expensive, I had a big one-up because of my dad’s photo lab. Getting to see the results immediately was good feedback on being able to see if the waves were as good as we thought. That back & forth, that instant recollection of the session (before digital was available), was what really trained my eye for what to look for.

Growing up in the cold waters of central Cal required a touch more persistence than say rolling around in the surf of Waikiki.

The waters in central Cal never get warm, and so it’s never really a frolicking fun activity. It’s a bug you get, almost a sickness in your head you have to satisfy with surf. It is that drive to find satisfaction when the conditions and elements aren’t exactly conducive that also helped me become a good photographer.

Also, growing up with fins on my feet gave me a big advantage.

I think, when photographers who are traditional surfers try to make it happen in the water, the biggest adjustment they have to make is getting use to getting around with fins. With us, it’s so second nature it’s unthought of. Getting to the right spot in the lineup and not getting sucked over the falls all day is definitely an advantage that bodyboarding gives you.

Also, as a bodyboarder, you’re often chased away from the perfect waves at the best breaks and are forced to search for alternatives. As a grom-bodyboarder, I was always looking for the sick section down the beach that nobody wanted, just a piece that’d get gnarly for a moment. Well, that’s 90% of the pictures you see in the magazines. They’re not perfect waves by any means. They’re stillframes... moments. And I have to

[When asked if the humility of being a bodyboarder helped his artistic approach to photography]. Naugh, not really. I’m not really after some artistic impression or anything like that when I shoot. I’m always trying to get the shot as technically perfect as I can. It’s much more of a technical approach, than it is an artistic one. I know a lot of guys go that route and it works for them, but that’s just not me.

Todd Glaser Hey Surge, Thank you for the email and thinking of me for this project.

Hopefully it didn’t take too many beers for you guys to think of some names! Sorry it took so long for me to get back to you too.

I’ve been on the road a lot lately. I am not too sure if you are familiar with the piece that ESPN.com did about a similar topic, but it is a good read nonetheless. You can check it out here: http://espn.go.com/action/surfing/news/story?page=bodyon-a-boogie. “Where have the speed bumps gone?” by Kimball Taylor.

I think bodyboarders make for great photographers because we are used to wearing fins from the start. The waves that we search for to suit bodyboarding are hollow, fast, and off the beaten track of everyday surf locations. With that in mind it becomes natural for good images to come from good waves. With the limited budget of bodyboarders we learn quick how to read swell charts and make the most of our movements chasing swell. Sometimes it’s not the easiest or coasiest way, but it ends with good results.

Bodyboarders are good documentarians because they live and breath what they document. When they are not shooting photos they are in the lineup riding the waves with everyone. That is a big difference. It is easy to stand on the beach and dictate what the surfers should and should not be doing, but when they share the water with the riders there is a greater respect and experience between the two. I think it is safe to say that most of the photographers that are working today in the surf industry began as bodyboarders and grew into photographers. There is a long list of photographers who have there roots in bodyboarding and have grown to be some of the finer water photographers today.

Photographers such as Scott Aichner, Daniel Russo, Jeff Flindt, Tim Jones, Trent Mitchell, Seth Stafford, Mickey Smith, Phil Gallagher, Chris Bryan, Ross McBride (when he shot more)...

The list goes on.

Todd Glaser Seth Stafford hi surge yes my roots are from the good old body board. i think being so low in the water while constantly flippering on a bodyboard definitely helps with water photos. for me bb was all about the tube. it is so easy to get barreled on a bb which helped me get really familiar with everything about the tube. this translates into a nice foundation for lining up a nice water shot. thanks for the email.

Seth

UNDERWORLD B&W | PH: COLE YAMANE

By Anthony Olayon | All photos by Caleb Davenport | davenportphoto.tumblr.com

The Beginning.

Like the migratory birds that fly to far away lands each year in search of food, mates, and refuge from the seasons, a small group of Big Islanders adapted a Hawaii-West Australia migration back in 2005. The allure of surfing epic waves during our relatively starved summers in Hawaii pushed us down to Australia. In short, the waves were epic but something kept telling us that the grass would be greener on that West Australian Coast. So, not really having a clue what we’d gotten ourselves into, or how we’d get around, my brother Chris, Nate, and myself decided to wing it over to the West.

We spent the first night sleeping outside the Perth Airport in our sleeping bags. The next morning we hired a campervan that ended up crapping out on us only an hour or so into our drive, so we spent the night in the carpark of a petrol station somewhere just outside of Perth. Alas, the next day we got our van replaced and drove out on our first trip up north to The Desert. After getting lost a handful of times, we eventually found the wave were looking for. The crowds were mellow, even non-existent at times. The isolation and the fact that nearly everyone there drove hours brought out an awesome sense of camaraderie.

Somewhere along the line we met a couple of bodyboarders who, at that point in time, were aspiring physical education teachers on “uni” vacation. Not thinking much of it, we did the normal chit chat then parted ways.

As luck would have it, we ran out of wax out in The Desert and asked those fellows if they had any to spare. They said they’d have a look. We went out for a surf and later found a piece of diesel-scented wax on our bumper with a phone number and email address from a guy named Mischa. Never did end up seeing those blokes again on that trip, but we kept in touch. Little did we know that this would eventually lead to us being one sort of big family. It was the beginning of what we call the West Australia-Hawaii connection.

The Present Fast forward to 2010, our crew from Hawaii hadn’t been there since 2008, so everyone was jones-ing to go West.

Plus the West Oz crew had been doing a bit more exploring since our last trip. All in all, it would be good times regardless of how epic the waves were.

The Journey The plan was to stay over in New South Wales for a week and try to get some waves there while we waited for our mates over West to finish up their “uni” exams. Upon arrival, we hired a car and headed out of the airport just before midnight in search of some place where we could crash out without paying. We ended up in Cronulla, where the Shark Island trials were held just the day before we arrived. Sean, our Big Island MacGyver, and Rocky, the Shukokai samurai, attempted to sleep in the car while Andrew, the Nightmare, and I opted for a little bunker near the beach.

Sleep was minimal if any at all. We were all up so early that we decided to try and find our way to Suck Rock and go for a dawn patrol. The waves were kinda tiny, and the cold wasn’t helping us get amped for a surf.

Surf forecast for the week was shot. Miniscule.

So we decided to head West where the chances of scoring waves were heaps more promising. Changing our tickets over the phone was like some kind of lottery. One of us changed it for a good price while another one of us somehow had to pay forty bucks more for the same change.

Ridiculous. But, hey, money doesn’t mean much when your starving for waves.

West Bound We were greeted by two of our many hosts in West Oz, Mr. Dave Lush and Caleb Davenport. It was a beautifully sunny day; the air was cool and crisp … we were stoked to have made the trip. The next couple of days were a bit of a blur—unknowingly sneaking into a movie premiere, 60’s night out in Perth, and a few brief surfs around town.

Up North As quick as we arrived in Perth, we found ourselves loading the back of Dave’s newly acquired dual cab truck with our gear, prepping for the ten hour road trip north where we reunited with Mischa and Liam. We met these two on our first trip, and since then they’ve been teaching physical education and made the move up north a few years ago. This way they could be closer to the glorious stretch of coastline up in The Desert, a quick two hour drive away rather than the grueling ten. Mischa’s floor became our home base for when the waves weren’t good, or when we simply needed to get back into town to replenish our supplies.

The Drive

Coming from Hawaii where we can drive around our island in maybe four hours, the ten plus hours drive was a bit um … butt-numbing. Ideally, we would have left Perth sometime early in the morning but not everything follows plan on trips. So we left sometime around noon, which meant we did a fair bit of our drive at night.

Driving at night in the outback ain’t like driving at night in Hawaii. The outback is riddled with kangaroos, cows, sheep, goats and giant road trains. When you’re driving at night, every bush or sign on the side of the road plays tricks on your mind. Sensing the potential danger tenses you up, making you grip the steering wheel, easing off the accelerator, ready for the creatures to bolt across the road in front of you. Fortunately, we didn’t hit anything and arrived at Mischa’s place safely.

The Waves Finally, some waves! We spent the first week or so driving around The Desert searching for some surf. We focused our attention on a couple of rights. One was a nice bowling reef while a couple hundred yards down the coast there was a nice reef to shorebreak wave. Sean and Rocky put on clinics at one right, banking reverses, backflips, and inverts off the shorebreak section. Dave stuck to the hollow reef barrel and tested his luck into the low tide where the cut out zone was probably inches from your face as you dodged the closeout. Andrew mixed it up smoothly at both. I tried to work on my backside DK.

Fun waves were had but the pinnacle of our migrations to The Desert always revolved around “The Right.”

Often called all sorts of other names like Monuments, Slaters, etc, “The Right” is a short but intense barrel at the take off with a ramp just waiting to fling you out into the flats onto a bed full of urchins. As good as this wave is, it is pretty fickle. This trip we were lucky enough to get it one and a half times. The first day happened almost by mistake as we were searching the coast trying to decide where to surf. Luckily we decided to give it a check and it just so happened to be going off. Four to six foot with the occasional eight foot clean-ups, offshore, and best thing of all … no one else out!

You’d think we’d be straight out there, but for some odd reason we were all kind of in awe of the waves and somewhat hesitant. Dave was the first out as usual and was charging like the bed of urchins and limestone reef never existed. We all followed, and the start of an epic session unfolded. Caleb, being a kind of freak when it comes to shooting water photos, swims out with his housing. We all get a few smoking barrels and ramps. Whales swim by not too far from the lineup, dolphins (luckily not sharks) pass through the line-up, and then a nice eight foot close-

out catches us off guard, reminding us of the raw power of “The Right.”

Eventually the wind switches onshore and we all pray we can make it to shore unscathed. Getting in is probably the worst part of surfing at “The Right.” Usually you get washed over the dry reef into a lagoon, or get lucky and high ride the whitewash into safety. Or if you’re Caleb you swim against the current like a madman and force your way in hoping some six footers don’t land on your head. Not an easy feat without a board. The session ends and we all make it to shore safely. Lord have mercy.

The Left Another highlight of The Desert migration was Tombstones, a lefthander that growls down the coast for a minute and half with three separate surges along the way that‘d erase you if you weren’t on your best game. We got this wave a few separate times, ranging from three to eight feet.

More on this later.

The Unknown Caleb and Dave have been doing their research and exploring in their backyards. So when the swell charts showed some promising conditions for fun wedging beachbreaks down south, we decided to take the chance and have a go.

This was a big call, since the wave was a fifteen hour drive south of our current location and meant we might not be able to get back to the beloved Desert again this trip. I was a little bummed to be leaving after only three weeks there, but the thought of exploring more of the immense West OZ coast was appealing.

Fast forward a day and a half, and we’ve arrived at our destination. We checked into a chalet and slept anxiously wondering what the morning light would show us. Needless to say all of our dreams were answered. We were greeted with three foot left-hand wedging barrels in the clearest turquoise water I’ve ever surfed in over some amazingly white sand. Something we don’t really get on the Big Island. The next day was even better as the opposite end of the beach produced an epic right hand wedge. Needless to say, we all fell in love with the place.

Desert Calling As quick as we fell in love, we were hitting the road back north. Forecasts were claiming a six-meter monster swell to hit The Desert in a few days. Could we possibly pass this up? No way! So back to Perth we went, and within a day we were making the long haul back up to Mischa’s place the night before the swell. I wonder how much any of us slept that night, knowing that this would be the biggest we had seen it get in The Desert this trip.

The drive that morning was full of suspense. First light revealed waves breaking along the coast where we never saw them break on previous swells. We pull up to

the Tombstones carpark and all we see are massive walls of whitewash closing the ‘channel’ and connecting with the outer reef bombie. It was easily eight to ten foot or so, and a tad bit out of control. We didn’t go out right away. There were only around ten brave souls out in the battle zone and what seemed like one-hundred spectating on shore.

We watched a few people paddle out and get sucked into oblivion a mile down the beach. Did we really want to join them?

After observing for quite some time, trying to muster up the courage to make the horrendous paddle out.

A couple of us decided to give it a go. After all, it’s not very often that we get waves of this size at home, and how bummed would we be looking back on the trip knowing we didn’t paddle out on the biggest day?

Ironically, as we’re paddling out I have this irritating song buzzing through my head. I don’t remember the lyrics except for the punch line, “I feel like dying.” Not exactly words of encouragement when you’re paddling out to a spot that’s pretty much maxing out. Luckily, we didn’t end up dying. All of us got some bombs, a few barrels of our lives, and our fair share of beatings.

The following day was a little smaller, maybe six to eight foot or so, but a bit cleaner and going off all day long.

Stand-ups were literally heaving themselves over the ledge on some bombs, making some and just getting obliterated on others. Some big wig bodyboarders—Mitch Rawlins, Brad Hughes, Jake Stone, Chad Jackson, and Brendon Backshall—also made an appearance and put on quite a show of high caliber riding. We all had huge smiles on our faces after this session.

South Again With the swell on the decline and our funds running low, we packed it all up again and said our goodbyes to The Desert, stoked to have made the trip and glad to be alive.

When we arrived in Perth, the boys saw some swell heading for Margaret River. Unfortunately, Dave and Caleb were hard for cash and had to stay back and do some landscaping work to make some money and pay the bills.

No dramas. Dave, being the champ that he is, let us take his truck for a few days. Cheers mate!

We ended up getting to surf some pretty darn fun Box and Gas Chambers. The waves weren’t huge, around three to four foot, but the spots lived up to their names.

It was nice to experience these spots that we had always heard about in the magazines and videos growing up. As if we hadn’t done enough driving already, we had to make one last trip back to Perth to pick up Dave and head down for more Gas Chambers. Our last day of surf turned out to be quite an epic day out at Boodj, an amazing sand bank about a half hours walk down the beach from Gas. We had

checked this wave out the day before but it was slightly onshore and not quite epic. On this particular morning, we wanted to get away from the crowds down the beach. It was a cool morning, slightly overcast, winds were whipping offshore to groom these spectacular four to six foot a-frames exploding on the beach. Coming from the Big Island, it’s quite a treat to surf beach break waves like this, so we were absolutely frothing on these waves. Knowing that this would be our last day of surf in West Oz, we all stayed out as long as we could, trading some memorable barrels.

When it was time to head in the waves were still going off. It was one of those weird moments where you ask yourself, “Why exactly am I leaving?” But being the migrants that we are, home was calling. Back to reality, back to work so we can save up and do this all over again. In the meantime, we await the arrival of our Western Australia family to share even more memorable times here in Hawaii.

Cheers boys!

GLEN THURSTON ON A BEAST | LUKE SHADBOLT | LUKESHADBOLT.COM

PH: JEM CRESSWELL | JEMCRESSWELL.COM

Surfing gracefully in all conditions is one thing, but main-

taining yourself to perform well as you grow older is another. It’s something everyone can aspire to and is possible by consistently conditioning yourself over time. In this article, I am aiming to explore what is required for longterm performance.

When the waves get big enough, those that have what it takes to handle all circumstances stand out from those that do not. You might be able to handle the extreme conditions for a short period, but to achieve a marathon session with some degree of confidence you need to condition your mind and body.

I am a firm believer in balance. In my opinion, we are made up of three factors we have the ability to train, build, and ultimately bring into balance. They are mind, body, and spirit. If one of these three factors is lacking, we will find ourselves unbalanced and less effective in the water.

your world.

A change in perspective usually comes through experience. For example, seeing a third world country and the poverty may open your eyes to your own standard of living. To hear of a friend with cancer may give you an appreciation of your own health. The list goes on. All I am suggesting is cultivating a positive attitude toward life is not impossible but varies for each person.

I have seen quite a few things in my short twentyfive years. For me, I have experienced reconciliation between God and myself that has exposed my mind to pure goodness. Thus allowing the renewal of my mind to begin and a perspective shift to see the world and people around me.

Now this is important because when you see clearly, positively, and naturally feel healthy in the mind, you can push yourself and your performance to another level. Generating a confidence to pursue big waves safely.

Lets start with the mind: A healthy mind will make or break you when it comes to performance. We have the capacity to coat our perspective different colors. It seems some people have a positive, vibrant filter over their world whilst others have this dark, jaded, and depressed filter over theirs. These are the two ends of the spectrum, and it is a massive break through when you learn to positively color

The human body: This is the easy part. To naturally perform well in your chosen field requires conditioning. This is obtained by consistent everyday exercises and routines that you can do regularly. You cannot expect to surf amazing in big waves if you drink, smoke, and rarely exercise.

You might last for a while but your body will not cope on the long term.

PH: JEM CRESSWELL | JEMCRESSWELL.COM

Core strength: The glue that holds all your surfing together.

Increasing your core strength will help you do your moves tighter, land better, strengthen your back and allow you to take those heavy landings with more ease.

A. The plank: Start on your elbows and toes in a horizontal plank position, keeping your back straight and drawing your navel in. Hold for 60 seconds, repeat 3 times.

B. The abdominal wheel: This is one of the main core, back and abdominal tools that I use. It will kill the first time you use it, but I assure you that if you can push through and develop a consistent routine every second day you will notice significant results.

Begin on your knees, forming a wheelbarrow position (on carpet) and simply roll forward and return to kneeling wheelbarrow position. Only roll forward to the degree that you can manage over 10 repetitions. Focus on building up to 20 reps/3 sets every second day.

Flexibility: Keeping your muscles stretched and maintained will minimize cramps, allowing them to work harder with less down time and increase your performance capacity.

Back and legs are the most crucial muscles in bodyboarding. “Google� back and leg stretches for detailed routines.

Make sure you stretch the night before a surf and not immediately before you surf. A light warm up is far more beneficial before surfing.

Cardio endurance: We all desire to have that extra burst of power ready when the critical moments arise during big wave sessions. Whether you have surfed for hours out at Backdoor or you are pushing yourself at a local break, swimming and bike riding are the best anti-gravity exercises I use to get my body used to going hard for long hours at high output. Your body will naturally struggle with this kind of exercise to start with. Be encouraged. Once you develop a consistent daily routine you will notice a huge difference. Try riding to the pool or beach then swimming 1km every second day, building up to 3km every second day as a focus distance to complete. *Note: This kind of training I do every summer as a seasonal training cycle, not necessarily recommended all year round.

Power: Bodyboarding is an explosive sport which requires a certain degree of muscle. Having the extra bulk can allow a natural fluid motion to occur as you ride waves. You will not bounce so much and you will find you need to shift your weight well to perform critical maneuvers.

Start at your local gym and ask how to build your arms, chest, and back. This fills the gaps around your torso and gives you that bullet shape appearance when driving.

*Note: Keep a healthy balance with everything else in mind because if you get too heavy it will have a negative affect on your surfing.

Nutrition: It is absolutely crucial in keeping your body in tune. Plenty of water with unrefined ocean sea salt added to provide proper hydration. Combine proper hydration with raw vegetables, fruits, nuts, organic chicken, fresh fish, and whole grains to feed your body. Try to eat as unprocessed as possible. There are also many good concepts available online for re-fueling a highly active individual.

PH: JEM CRESSWELL | JEMCRESSWELL.COM

Spirit: The final key ingredient to achieving balance is your spiritual awareness. A somewhat denied reality for many people and quite ironically the most powerful element in living a fruitful life. It can also be the driving force behind defusing fear and pushing your personal limits in really dangerous, big wave surfing. Because let’s be honest, you won’t be surfing in life threatening conditions very often if you constantly fear the consequences.

We are built to have a spiritual connection to something. The scary part is for most of us, the spiritual realm is so mysterious and unknown we end up connecting to things that suppress freedom and crush our dreams. I have personally wrestled with this thoroughly and came to an incredible awareness of God. All things submit to him … even fear, death and deception. If you can position yourself to wrestle in this arena you are opening yourself up to huge breakthroughs.

So this gives us all something to train and improve upon to tackle the next big session, decision, or obstacle.

I am confident as you open yourself up to take the steps towards balance, you will be satisfied with the changes.

As us Aussies would say, “The proof is in the pudding.” I would encourage you to jump into action and experience it for yourself. I hope we can all surf longer, harder, and with more peace as we grow older.

MATT MEYER | PH: SEAN COLLINS | SEANCOLLINSPHOTO.BLOGSPOT.COM

PH: PARKER MENDEHALL

My anxiety is getting worse and worse as John “Beans”

Porsudek and I creep closer to the front of the Delta check-in counter. My bag is behemoth and probably way over the weight limit. I hand over my passport to the husky, ghetto looking check-in lady. She then prompts me to place my bag on the scale. The bag, which I borrowed from my mom, has leaves painted all over it. She did it a few years back to make the bag cute and unique. Right now that is the least of my concerns, but it is still pretty damn embarrassing.

“Sir, your luggage is twenty three pounds overweight.

That will cost you $150 one way.” I try to coax her into dropping the baggage fee but am unsuccessful. I turn to Beans and convince him to let me shove some of my belongings into his board bag that has a few pounds to spare. We try weighing in again, but this time both of our bags are overweight. The lady is getting annoyed with us and the line behind us is pilling up, so Beans and I step aside to conjure a plan so that both of our bags make weight.

Beans takes his pillow out of its case and shoves the pillow in his board bag. I hand him my fins and he throws all four pairs in the pillowcase. I begin shoving all my denim and outerwear into the random compartments of my carry-on camera backpack. I now have five pairs of jeans, a sweatshirt, a rain jacket, and an inflatable mattress pad busting the seams of my poor camera bag. I also decide to take out my tent and give it to Beans to carry on. We think our bags are ready to check in, so we proceed to the counter again. They finally make weight. Sigh of relief. No luggage fees.

By this point, we are pretty sweaty but relieved to make it past that wretched check-in lady. Beans and I bulldoze our way past clueless families and tourists to get in line at the security check point. My backpack rams a couple people in line behind me. As we wait in line, I notice everyone around us suspiciously checking out Beans’ lumpy pillowcase full of fins hoisted over his shoulder.

I make it through the security checkpoint, but Beans is nowhere to be found. After waiting a few minutes, he appears from secondary inspection. What happened? I forgot to take out the skews in the tent bag.

Ops! The sixteen-inch metal skews could easily be used as weapons on board, so no wonder TSA frisked him. Beans is pissed at me, to say the least.

As we board the plane, Beans returns the favor by stealing my window seat, leaving me in the company of some crack head. This overweight dude has the craziest moustache-chops combo I have ever seen, and his inch

DOWNTIME | PH: SEAN COLLINS | SEANCOLLINSPHOTO.BLOGSPOT.COM

long pinky nail is not helping much either. This guy talks my ear off the whole first hour of the flight while Beans sits on the opposite side of me trying to keep a straight face. This guy is so talkative that even long after I pretend to fall asleep, he is still trying to make conversation.

Fifteen agonizing hours later, Matt Meyer and Mike Lepiere (who had arrived a week earlier) greet us at the Sydney airport. We zip off in a tiny, turquoise Mazda they picked up for $400, appropriately nicknamed “The Bubble.” Matt and Mike then tell us they found us a place to stay, meaning all the camping gear is unneeded. You are kidding me? At least we will have a roof over head, which is a plus considering it is midWinter in Australia.

The next two months fly by awfully quick. People on the South Coast claim it is one of the worst winters for surf in years. Just our luck. At most, we average two to three sessions a week. It is not what we expect on arguably the best bodyboard coastline in the world. We score a couple sick sessions at Nuggan, Mystics, Blackrock, and a few other waves in New South Whales. The only regret I have is not scoring some of the heavier waves like Supers and Shark Island.

I am stoked on the level of riding of our crew throughout our stay. Matt, Mike, and Beans hold it down at each spot we venture. It is kind of hard to imagine that somewhere as good as Oz can have flat spells, but the thing that amazes me most is how many good bodyboard spots there are in such close proximity.

The place we spend most of our time lurking—Bawley Point—has around two dozen sick spots within a couple mile stretch. Most of those spots would be, without a

MICHAEL LEPIERE | PH: SEAN COLLINS | SEANCOLLINSPHOTO.BLOGSPOT.COM

doubt, considered top notch in California. Even though the swells are not “all time”, the sessions we have turn out to be quite memorable. Mediocre days at Nuggan can still have the potential to produce some of the best air reverse ramps anywhere in the world. Days where the forecast claim to be two foot sometimes yield us with overhead slabbing barrels once we know where to look. Top that with practically unlimited coastline to explore, someone can surf a new spot every day of his or her trip.

The rest of the time we spend partying with the local folks in Ulladulla. We meet some awesome natives as well as a sick group of tourists from Reunion Island. The girls on the South Coast are pretty wild … ask Matt and Beans. These girls can out drink anyone I know in the States, often going on three to four day long “benders.” They introduce us to “The Goon,” otherwise known as box wine, which can be a blessing or a curse depending on your tolerance for alcohol. Fortunately for me, I can handle my booze but there are still plenty of nights I blacked out. I can only imagine what the rest of the guys went through; having drunk themselves into oblivion on so many occasions. I am not going to mention any of the debauchery, but lets just say if you are headed to the South Coast of Australia you better be ready for some crazy nights. Waking up after a night of drinking too much Goon can be extremely excruciating.

Fortunately, we didn’t have to worry much about waking up early to surf.

While some people may think two months is a pretty damn long surf trip, to me it is only enough time to experience the tip of the iceberg as far as surfing frontiers go. For these reasons, I am looking forward to returning to Australia soon. Hopefully next time around our luck will roll the opposite way in terms of swell...

Ph: Dave Baker

Ph: Dave Baker

Ph: Sacha Specker

Ph: Maurice Aubuchon

Ph: Shea Sevilla

Ph: Martin Justinevicius

SUNRISE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

IN YOUR FACE WEDGE | PH: MATT VAUGHN

CRYSTAL CLEAR | PH: DANE GRADY | DANEGRADY.COM

KEIKI BEAST | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

CLOSEOUT AFTERNOON | PH: JT GRAY | NORTHSHORESURFPHOTOS.COM

MORNING GLORY | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

THE VIEW | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM

PERFECT PIPE | PH: NEAL MIYAKE | HISURFADVISORY.COM

HAWAIIAN BEAUTY | PH: COLIN MCGILLIVRAY | COLINMCGILLIVRAY.COM

EMPTY LINEUP | PH: PARKER MENDEHAL

MISTY MORNING | PH: SACHA SPECKER

MAKAPUU PERFECTION | PH: AARON MIZUSHIMA

BACKWASH | PH: BRYAN PEZMAN | PEZPIX.COM

CYLINDER BEAUTY | PH: COLIN MCGILLIVRAY | COLINMCGILLIVRAY.COM

LEFTY | PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM

OAHU SUMMER SWELL | PH: AARON MIZUSHIMA

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

ALL PHOTOS BY: ALEX VERHARST | VERHARSTPHOTOGRAPHY.BLOGSPOT.COM

Pete “PMA” Anaya www.custom-x.com / www.pmacustoms.com

By Evan Fa

From Tom Morey ironing newspaper on his boogie board to the incorporation of stringers, bodyboarders have been on a quest for that perfect board. The boards that will, at least in theory, ride itself. Well, truth is there really is no single board that will suit each bodyboarder under all conditions. Each bodyboarder has his unique set of preferences that determine the perfect board, not the other way around. Custom board shapers are there to make the bodyboarder’s dream come true.

Pete Anaya, known as PMA, is a veteran shaper that began his career in the industry sweeping floors at BZ in 1991. At the time, BZ was in full swing with over a dozens of employees laminating, trimming, shaping, and recycling foam. Pete pushed through the ranks, eventually making his way to the shaping floor where he honed his skills with the knife. He then moved on to work for other companies such as Custom X, Industry, and LMNOP. Throughout his career he has shaped for generations of the world’s best bodyboarders, from Skipp, Ross, Aka, to Kainoa. These days he’s back at Custom X in charge of production while also running his custom board project known as PMA Customs.

Surge caught up with PMA to ask him some questions to enlighten readers in their quest for that perfect board.

FA: Aloha Pete! It’s been a while since we talked story.

What’s new?

PMA: Me? LOL! Nothing new.

FA: When did you first start shaping boards?

PMA: BZ was the start of all this madness. I remember the first time this was all set in motion. The first week or so at the end of the day everyone started to clean up and went to the back where Yamo was trimming some boards.

I told Yamo to let me trim some boards and he laughed at me and said “good luck, you should go sweep the floors.”

I challenged him and said I’m going to do it, if you don’t like it then fire me. So I grabbed his knife and started trimming boards. And from that point it was on!

FA: Who is the biggest pain to shape for?

PMA: You are. Nah, but there are a handful. But that’s what keeps me on my toes. Plus if I told you, I would have to kill you. Haha!

FA: Haha! Sorry Pete. What’s the future of shaping?

PMA: You throw a bunch of foam and stringers and maybe a few tools into a box with a bunch of monkeys inside and “POOF!” a board pops out. LOL! Man, I can’t wait!

FA: Who are the people that have influenced you most in your profession?

PMA: Everyone I have worked with. You can always learn something from someone and they know who they are.

FA: You bodyboard yourself, so your perspective and wisdom on board designs flows from both sides of the spectrum. What do you think the biggest misconcep-

tion bodyboarders have when it comes to finding that perfect board?

PMA: MAN! I wish I had more time to ride… work, work, work son! Ok, a basic board is what works. Keep it simple and focus on your riding and not your board because most of the time it’s the rider or the waves that make you have good and bad days. Just ride and have fun!

FA: What a lot of the kids probably don’t realize is that you spend day after day plugging away on boards.

What kind of music to zone out to in the factory?

PMA: Typically black metal Immortal. Though lately I’ve been listening to the Bible. Of course, I can only handle so much, so I switch back and forth from the two.

FA: What are the most significant changes in terms of materials and board design over the years?

PMA: I would have to say core and contours.

FA: What recommendations would you give to kids looking to invest in a custom board?

PMA: It’s all about what you feel, not what you see. Think about it kids!

FA: Anything else?

PMA: 2012 … the world is in for a change! As KISS says at the end of there show, GOOD NIGHT! YEAHHH! And back stage I give my wife and girls a big kiss! Over-Out!

Chuy is one of the most talented people in Puerto

Escondido. Not only is he the national bodyboarding champion, but he is the only bodyboardersurfer from Puerto who has a post grade degree in languages. He is also a member of one of the deepest rooted families in Puerto. His father was part of the very first generation of surfers. One of the guys who had this paradise for himself without the crowds. Chuy is a very dedicated person, so you will undoubtedly be seeing more of Chuy in the years to come.

EM: How old are you?

CS: I am 24 years old.

EM: How was life growing up in Puerto? Explain.

CS: When I started practicing bodyboarding my mom didn’t like it very much because she said that surfers had a bad reputation. When I started university I left competitions and bodyboarding for almost two years. I used to practice only three times a month. When I got good grades I decided to start competitions again and the first contest that I did was a National Contest and I won. It was there when I realized that I was connected with bodyboarding.

EM: Why bodyboard and not surf? Or do you do both?

CS: My father taught me when I was a child how to ride a wave with a surfboard, but I didn’t like it. Then I tried a bodyboard and I found it different. I felt that it was my passion.

EM: What’s a typical day at home for you?

CS: Surf in the morning, then go to work four hours, then go to the gym, go to Zicatela at night just for fun, and then to sleep.

EM: Any sponsors? If so, which ones? If not, what equipment do you use?

CS: Right now I’m getting help from Custom X, but it is

not really a sponsor. Colorada Bodyboarding Shop is my local sponsor.

EM: What’s your favorite thing about bodyboarding in Puerto?

CS: That we are important. We have the respect from everybody. We are as important as the best surfer of Puerto Escondido even though we don’t have sponsors like them that make them famous.

EM: Who are the bodyboarders that have influenced you the most over the years?

CS: I grew up watching No Friends videos with all my friends. So all the No Friends crew, for example: Hubbard,

Mcbride, Skipper, etc. I think we are blessed for living here in Puerto Escondido with these amazing waves. I think everybody wants to come here and, thanks to that, I have learned from everybody. Guys from Brazil, Puerto Rico (like Babby Quiñones), Australia, and, of course, from guys from here like Jose Rutherford, Motor, Edwin Morales, and Jose Ramirez.

EM: Who are some younger Puerto riders that people should look out for?

CS: Miguel Zafra, Cesar Petroni, and Tehuen Petroni.

EM: How is the localism in Puerto?

CS: Local surfers and bodyboarders are not too close to each other outside the water, but inside we are like a big family—older surfers and bodyboarders are always watching what is happening and sometimes taking care of the younger, little ones. But I think that happens everywhere you go … just need to respect the locals.

EM: If you had a million dollars, and you could only purchase five things, what would they be?

CS: Travel around the world, a house, a car, lots of fins and bodyboards, and a six-month trip to Hawaii. Hehe!

EM: As Mexican National Champ, do you see yourself giving the IBA World Tour a go?

CS: Last year I realized that I have the level to compete in the IBA tour, but the thing is that I don’t have a sponsor

who helps me with something. I would like to do it, but we all know that we need money. The contest that I have to do even just once in my life is the one in Hawaii. I’m really looking forward to going next year.

EM: Is the bodyboarding scene in Puerto pretty competitive?

CS: Right now contests like IBA Puerto Comp and the one that Colorada Bodyboarding does are pushing the level and competence of local bodyboarders, so right now the Mexican bodyboarding is heading to another level.

EM: What is perfect Zicatela to you?

CS: A perfect day in Zicatela would be a cloudy summer day with 8 to 10 foot waves, strong off shore winds that sometimes remain all day long. That’s it!

EM: Do you hit up the discotecas regularly?

CS: Hehe! Right now I’m taking a break. At Cabo Blanco (Jose Ramirez’s place) they prepare a cocktail that is called Far Bar, which is very strong. With four of those you will be speaking Spanish with local girls.

EM: What do you do for work?

CS: I’m an English and Spanish teacher in Puerto.

EM: Favorite food and where?

CS: Tlayudas in a small restaurant called El Asador. To me they are the best Tlayudas in all Puerto!

EM: Where is the one place you would like to travel and surf?

CS: Hawaii, Chile, and Tahiti. I will die very happy if I surf those places EM: What are some things that we can expect from you in the future?

CS: I’m really looking forward on going to Hawaii next year, for now you will see me competing in the best bodyboarding contest down here in Mexico.

EM: How do you deal with the summer crowds in Puerto?

CS: Mmm … I’m local; I don’t have problems with that!

Hehe!

EM: What is some advice that you would give to a person traveling to Puerto to surf?

CS: The first thing that you have to do is to respect the locals.

Even if we are short and small we keep being very strong.

Hehe! The best food of all Mexico is the Oaxacan food.

You should really try Tlayudas. They are also known as the Mexican Pizza. The party is always in Zicatela. There are many places where you can have a good time and be safe, but remember to respect the locals even in the clubs. Chao!

PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM

Although Hurricane season officially begins in June, things

don’t seem to really heat up until Labor Day, when the last summer parties are winding down and everyone is leaving their beach houses to go back to school and work. At this time of year when summer is transitioning into fall, my ear is to the ground.

I’m listening for any signs of tropical development off the Cape Verde Islands that dot the western tip of Africa. My first signs come from my fellow bodyboarding friends.

After staring at Lake Atlantic all summer, the same old prophecies spew forth. “Dude, did you hear… the weather man is calling this season to be the most intense storm season ever…

Look at that thing coming off Africa?”

This is my cue to start looking at weather maps and surf the internet for info to suggest that the big billows of water moving off Africa will actually turn into legitimate hurricanes. These tropical systems gain their intensity from the warm waters of the Caribbean, but it is the wind currents from the jet stream that give them direction—either pushing them west toward the Americas or pulling them into the middle of the Atlantic. During these critical initial stages, the entire East Coast surf world is watching with baited breath. We have been waiting for three long flat-as-apancake months. The summer flat spell is so hard on EC surfers that at the first signs of tropical activity everyone is ready to boil over if they don’t get some waves soon. For this reason it is the most hyped time of year and everyone wants a thick slice of the pie.

Given that tropical systems take a good week (that seem to take forever) to be in a position where waves start to show up on the East Coast, there is hype… hype like non-East Coasters simply cannot appreciate. This is when my phone starts to ring… and ring and ring and ring. The first calls are early birds, trying to reserve a photog for the first swell. So now it’s back to the computer. It’s time for me to continue my research. I recheck projected paths, compare them to top wind speeds and how fast the storm is moving. I really don’t get too deep into it because it will drive you nuts when the predictions are wrong. You start to think of how it should be instead of how it is. A lot of people seem to forget that Mother Nature is allowed to do whatever she

pleases. When the perfect storm changes paths, they get upset. Or it gets them pissed when a minor tropical depression turns out to be the best wave producing system of the year.

People actually take it personally. That cracks me up. I simply check the reports and make my own best guess based on past experiences for each zone: Caribbean, South Florida, the rest of Florida, Mid-Atlantic, and the North East. Good clean swells are usually produced when the storm skims the East Coast. The winds are more favorable in front of the system and behind it. After I take a best guess, I make some call to my homeboys in the Caribbean. The call is made for two reasons: I want to find out what they think of the tropical system, but I also want to know what they think of me staying with them. Travel costs add up quick, if you don’t have hookups. And you can blow a call of where to travel if you don’t have good guys with good eyes on the ground where you’re thinking of going. The goal is to be able to sell my photos and cover my costs. The competition among photogs is pretty sick. That week of watching and waiting gives plenty of opportunity for the best photographers in the world to show up.

For the 2010 hurricane season, the first call was made for the Bahamas with a crew of water-madmen. The Bahamas island chain is a barely tapped resource of quality surf with such potential. The Bahamian waves can be world class without a crowd anywhere throughout the entire chain. There are many reasons for this. The first being that the Bahamas are very expensive! Everything is over-priced, from the plane ticket to bottled water. Assuming you have the money, you need to know where to go and what swell and wind direction is optimal for that spot. Winds are very important in the islands. Oh yeah, you also need a local with a boat to navigate your way through the very dangerous reef passes and island channels. The breaks—the good breaks that you’ll get paid for shots of—are mostly reefs, shallow ones that are razor sharp. The water is crystal clear and the waves are super hollow, which makes for great photos, but it’s difficult to get how jagged that reef is, especially when you know that it is teeming with marine life of all shapes and sizes. The Bahamas are known for their maneating tiger sharks. The water being so clear makes it easier for you to see that you constantly have company. Even the barracudas are large in size and numbers and are very aggressive. Most places I have traveled to the sharks are cautious and respectful of your space. Not in the Bahamas!

You pose no threat to them. If anything, you look tasty.

The wave that we decided on surfing this trip is a left-hand tube that kind of starts off slow and then makes its way onto the shallow part of the reef. When it hits this part of the reef, the lip starts to unload all of its power up and over the shelf. This makes for a very square keg. If I had to compare it to a well known wave it would have to be Padang in Bali… well, Padang with crystal clear blue water and no one in the line up. From time to time you might see

BAHAMAS LEFT | NICOLALUGO.COM

a humble, warm-hearted local. They are mostly transplants from the states. For all those reasons and some I’m probably forgetting, the Bahamas is one of my favorite places to visit and shoot.

After scoring big blue tubes, I headed back home to find out that I missed the best swell to hit south Florida all year.

My close buddies tell me that Reef Road had 10ft faces (EC style). Fuck! I think to myself. Reef road is ten minutes from my house and, I think, the best place to shoot fisheye on the East Coast, mostly because of the water color and clarity that comes from being so close to the Gulfstream.

But hey, that’s the game we all play here on the East Coast.

Your best guess will always be a guess. Like I said, Mother Nature gets to do whatever she damn well pleases. Even though we scored waves in the Bahamas, there is nothing like getting it good at home.

While I’m home I take care of all the things I need to like paying bills and mowing the lawn. I’m not really sure where the next storm will take me, but I do know it will be soon. So it is back to the computer in between household duties to find out where it will hit next. There is a storm brewing that is showing promise for the Outer Banks of NC, which is great because I have crews already lined up, both boogie and standup. Also ESM has a house rented out there for two weeks and offered me a free place to stay plus food in exchange for photos. It sure does take a lot of the pressure off when expenses are covered and reliable reports are coming in. When you take off for the islands, either the Bahamas or the Caribbean, you’re headed into the tropical system while it is still forming. Whereas with the Outer Banks, the tropical system has already traveled quite a ways and becomes somewhat more predictable.

All I have to cover is gas money there and back.

With so many local pros in the Outer Banks who rip that should be easy enough. So I pack my gear (some bottled water that doesn’t cost a small fortune, granola, p&j’s, and three bananas), gas up my truck and start the fourteen hour journey north. No fast food for me on the way. My cell phone, Bob Marley, an audio book called What the Dog Saw by Malcolm Gladwell helps keep my sanity throughout the long, boring ride. While stopping for gas I can feel the temp and humidity drop, which is a very welcoming thing for a south Florida boy that just got back from the islands.

The drive can be very hard on a single driver but I have been doing this trek for about twelve years so I kind of just get lost in Malcolm’s psychology and time slips away. The ride is mostly through pine forest with your scattered small country towns. Once you reach NC some of the pines are cleared to make room for tobacco and cotton fields, the back bone of the NC economy. When the farmland turns into marshland and I reach my first three mile long bridge that takes me across the sound, I know I’m get-

ting close to the home of shipwrecks, shoreline fishing, and small Puerto-style beach breaks. The Outer Banks lies in the center of the East Coast surfing world, mostly because it is one of the more consistent waves. The deep waters and shallow sand bars act as wave magnets. These barrier islands get more hype and coverage than the rest of the East Coast combined.

S-turn is the main attraction in the Banks and is a very good wave to get barreled or to hit a big air. The sandbars are always moving, so it is kind of hard to describe it other than a dumping beachy. Some days it can be a shorey, and the very next day the bar will move out fifty yards or so. I usually stay with Ryan Rhodes, his lady Idai, and roommate Cail. They always make me feel at home and have that southern hospitality that keeps me coming back.

Ryan is the spokesperson for NC bodyboarding, so I know that when I come to town he always has a boogie crew for me to shoot. The crew consists of good, well-mannered changers that are very hungry to do what it takes to get the shot. To end the day NC-style, Ryan and his lady are usually cooking up some freshly caught fish.

MIKE ZINER | PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM

SLAB OF MEAT IN DELAWARE | PH: CHRIS JOYNER

While I’m up in OBX, I see the forecast for the northeast and see that the swell direction and wind are optimal for Delaware and NJ. So I give a call to Chris for the report and to see if it is worth it for me to drive ten more hours north. “Hey Lugo, what’s up? Man, the forecast sites missed the mark once again just like for Danielle.

Last night was EPIC and your call is twelve hours late.”

The government decided to shut down the beaches making it illegal to surf at most, if not all of the beaches in MD, DE, and NJ, and that of course made most people stay away. With my phone on the ready and the television tuned to the Weather Channel all day Friday, around 3 PM the wind went straight offshore to everyone’s surprise. The car packed and phone blowing up I began my journey south to the one place we knew would be epic and ours at 5 PM. As I walk over the dune, the elements had indeed aligned.

I was able to film and snap some shots of something that does not occur too often but when it does there is no better place to be in Delaware. Next time bro, we need to get you to this spot when it is firing.

I always wanted to catch Delaware during a hurricane swell. Thanks to Chris for the update, I guess that throws driving to NJ to score some Jenks with Chris Schlegal out of the window. He probably got it good yesterday just like Joyner did. With that in mind, I head back to the computer and look south at the next system that is creeping up the Caribbean island chain. This tropical system doesn’t look promising but maybe I can get some small waves back at home. So I send out all my photos from the trip and pack my bags. It’s time for me to hit the long and dusty road.

After driving about tens hours, my phone starts to light up again. It’s the early birds. They are trying to line up with

me and score the shot. They tell me that the storm has picked up wind speed and has slowed down some, which is ideal for south Florida. Sick! Nothing like scoring it good at home. And so the tropical system chase continues.

I arrive at 2 AM. Enough time for me to charge batteries and get a good nap in before I have to swim. My phone wakes me up at 5 AM. It is my buddy Baron Knowlton, with whom I have a crazy love-hate friendship.

“Wake up Boogie. It is time to get the shot.” My body still aches from the long drive but my passion for the lifestyle makes me get out of bed. I start to check potential spots. The first spot I check is Lake Worth Pier, but it can’t hold the size... too big. It’s breaking way out past the end of the pier with hella current. FUCK! It’s big and it looks perfect for shooting in the water at Reef Road.

When I arrive at the Road there is mob of pro surf-

ers and photogs checking it. They are hooting and pointing.

“Look at that shorepound,” someone exclaims. It is one of the biggest and thickest days I have ever seen in Florida.

The water is a little dirty and the sun is still low on the horizon. This makes the conditions favorable for shooting fisheye with one of the pros. Because the wave is so heavy and mostly closing out, the pro surfers don’t want to go out there and break a board for a shot that won’t be used in the mags. This is my only real chance to surf a good bodyboarding wave this whole season. And I get it all to myself!

I probably only have an hour before the conditions change for the better. So I have to hurry and get my waves before work calls.

I run down the beach with my boogie only to realize that the wave is freaking firing right on the beach. I’m just so amped to get in the water; I’m about to explode. Right

MIKE DIMONE | PH: RICH BEAN | HUMANFITPROJECT.COM

before I go to paddle out I notice bait fish and then, BAAM! a shark comes flying out of the water. I look further out in the water and notice that not only are the waves on fire on the surface but also with fish and feeding sharks. But I don’t even care. We all take our chances each time we enter the ocean. This is my day to get a much needed tube. Growing up here I have conditioned myself to tune the sharks out of my mind and just concentrate on my surfing and shooting.

I get in the water and the sets are consistent, pretty big for here and damn thick. I take the first one and it is a double over head bomb closeout, and I can hear the beach go nuts. I think to myself, ok, I got that out of the way.

Now it is time to dropknee a wave. Here it comes. It is an 8 foot (face) slab with a little wedge, perfect for me to get in easier dropknee than the last wave. I make the drop but start to lose my rail. So I drag my back arm and stand up tall. This regains my line. I let go of the wall and start to drive. This wave is a lot wider than I thought. I see a section ahead of me that starts to suck up. It encases me, and I make it no problem. Then I see the next one which is thicker and longer. While inside this one I start to daydream about my trip up north... the things I’ve seen, the conditions I’ve anticipated, the people I’ve reconnected with. But then the moment hits home, literally, when there are no competing memories of the barrel now wrapping around me. This is my best dropknee barrel in Florida that I can remember.

Then I really snap out of it and see my doggie door about to swing shut as another close out section with a big chamber begins to form.

“Let it shut. Forget the doggie and go for more time in my favorite place.” A voice in my conscious suggests.

I take my beating like the chances with sharks. It’s all part of the deal. I come up only to see the surfers running for their boards. I guess it took a dropkneer to show them how it’s done.

NICOLA LUGO | PH: JEFF BEIGE

EARLY MORNING | PH: NICOLA LUGO

CHRIS LOOKING FORWARD | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

Meaning of Localism

Localism is, by my definition, a person who feels entitled to whatever he feels like taking in a particular area.

As in the surf.

Localism growing up.

Growing up at V-Land back in the early eighties was something out of an old western without the guns and the white man. Except for Perry Dane. Perry wasn’t half as tough as some of the other guys, but he shattered a few skulls himself. Most of the guys surfing V-Land back then were just really angry Polynesians who came from broken homes. So if you paddled out with more than yourself, or if you paddled out and no one knew who you were, or if you paddled out and you didn’t speak the tongue, didn’t speak English, didn’t look like you were from the area, or if you looked like you were rich … well then, you f***ing hid your ass and got the f*** out of there. Otherwise, you would get your mouth smashed and your teeth taken from your mouth and pounded into the bottom of the kitchen trash can so that when people threw their rubbish away, it went into your mouth for you to taste even in the afterlife.

You simply weren’t wanted in the area.

How it used to be then compared to now are two totally different things. Localism at V-Land was brutal in my day. If you didn’t know how to hold your own, you got owned. Stand your ground and be a man. If you got mobbed … even better. You were a tough f*** and the boys loved you even more. Now, they tore out all the houses and turned V-Land into a rich man’s world with dumbasses like Owen Wilson buying property there as a tax write-off while people cannot even find a place to put their friggin noggins on a pillow.

I’m glad those days are over. I’m out of the scene of knocking guys out for simply looking at me. I’m done being angry. My angry friends aren’t really around anymore.

They’ve either been killed, are dying, or are in jail for getting caught doing god knows what. Localism is for the birds. How the f*** can someone say they own anything on this planet? Can you take it with you when you leave? No. First hand stories of localism.

None that I’m proud about when it comes to localism. I smashed a lot of people being an angry person. Now I know it was confused energy without an outlet. Now that

I know that, my energy goes into the lip at warp speed.

Localism in other countries.

I feel that localism in other countries is different in some cases. Some places got it all wrong when I go there.

They think localism is a cool thing—Be the tough guy flexing your will on others for the sake of it. I feel that a lot of bullies are expressing the way they think it is to be cool in their eyes. Or they’re individuals who have been pushed around all their lives and are looking to find a click or “gang” to feel some sort of safety. Others believe they own the place. Until I see your ownership papers, f*** you! And even then, I’m still laughing because that is a load of crap to think you own anything attached to mother earth.

Where localism is necessary.

Spots that are dangerous need to be heeded. If you don’t know how to surf it then get the hell out of the place.

If you do, wait until you’re turn comes. When the boys there see that you can ride, then you might get an invite to join the pack out the back. But wait your turn. Don’t cut. If you do, you might be on the receiving end of a fist that isn’t on safety.

Pipeline is a wave of consequence. If you’re out in a wave of consequence you better know what you’re doing because one of two things will happen—either you’ll get hurt or hurt someone else. And as far as I’m concerned, if you get someone hurt out of ignorance, you’re a bitch. You will attract a beating out of that kind of irrational behavior.

Mistakes happen, but prices are paid either way. I, personally, would rather see a mistake be realized and chalked up to experience. Then that awareness could rise within you to avoid positions like that from happening again.

When to regulate, when not.

I have totally changed my attitude towards localism in the last few years. If I feel crowded, I leave. If I feel like it isn’t fun in an area, I leave! I don’t challenge like I used to. It’s a dead end. Avoidance is the key.

REX MORIBE | PH: MAURICE AUB

UCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/M

AURICEAUBUCHON

JEFF HUBBARD | PH: MAURICE

AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/M

AURICEAUBUCHON

Sandy Beach, Oahu, better know as Sandy’s, is the

birth-place of professional bodyboarding. Considered by many as the stepping stone to the North Shore, riders have come from all over the island for years to cut their teeth in the infamous shorebreak and, perhaps the most consistent spot on the island, Half Point. Back in the day, anyone who was anyone had to earn their merit at Sandy’s first. It was during this time that household names like Lindholm, Kaimi, Tanaka, Stewart, Severson, Caldwell, Sasaki, Okumura, Boyle, Paterson, Santos, Masuda, Marzol, Kim, Mercado, McGee, Jervis, Oide, Miller, Buder, Yap, Hanoa, Mix, Ronquilio, Lyman, and so on, established themselves as professionals and thus gave spawn to the sport.

When Bodyboarding Magazine hit the shelves in the 80’s and 90’s, everyone had “Boogie Fever” and Sandy’s was the place everyone converged to fuel the addiction. Sandy’s played host to one of the longest running contests in the world—The Sandy Beach Bodysurfing Championships. There were also many legendary bodyboarding events held in the shorebreak. For example, The Morey Boogie Sandy Beach event held at the middle peak as well as the biggest bodyboarding event ever held in the state of Hawaii, The Gotcha Pro. Back in those days, when someone won a contest at Sandy’s everyone in the sport knew who he was.

The coolest thing about Sandy’s back then was that the group was like a family. Everyone loved one another. Of course, some would do anything they could to “get the shot,” even if it meant stabbing someone else in the back. Haha! All joking aside, bodyboarders had no other choice but to band together because the surfers at Sandy’s didn’t take kindly to a bunch of boogieboarders taking over. Although stand up surfing wasn’t allowed in the shore break, it was a different story for Half Point. It was “kapu” (forbidden). Surfers only. So every boogieboarder had a bull’s eye on him when it came to Half Point unless your uncle was the biggest braddah on the beach. (Even then you weren’t going to get shit.) In contrast, today Half Point is run by bodyboarders. Thanks to the hard work of all the dedicated riders that stood up to the old guard and ripped the shit out of those waves by doing moves in places surfers could only imagine. Slowly bodyboarders earned a spot in the line up and shortly after won over the old guard to take over and dominate Half Point.

Perhaps the greatest contributing individual to the sport back then was Tom Boyle. As a master of the sport, he had an uncanny ability to capture some of the sport’s greatest memories on film. Tom’s dedication to “getting the shot” in the early days was the catalyst

EUGENE TEIXEIRA | PH: CLARK LITTLE | CLARKLITTLEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

that made it all happen. Everyone wanted to shoot with Tom. Other great photographers and videographers like Don King, Warren Bolster, Brian Bielman, DB Dunlap, Lauren Pritchet, Derek Hoffmann, and others followed in Tom Boyle’s footsteps. Tom is the sport’s first bodyboarding photographer. The sport today owes a great deal to these hard working individuals who went above and beyond (no pun intended) to “get the shot” and make the sport what it is today.

Bodyboarding at Sandy’s is a lot different today.

Although still one of the island’s most consistent spots, the number of professionals you will find there on an average day is not what it used to be. Mainly because Hawaii no longer has the number of pros it did in the past. That doesn’t mean the level of riding isn’t as high.

Riders today are pushing the limits even higher. The difference I see is in the level of professionalism and confidence. Where in the past nearly all the good riders were sponsored or trying to get sponsored in some way or another, working as hard as possible to gain exposure for their sponsors and become a pro, today it seems as if the young riders are more content to just ride and enjoy the water … maybe get a good shot for a Facebook page. Nonetheless, Sandy’s is part of bodyboarding’s history and will always hold its welldeserved prestige.

NATE RUBIO | PH: ANDREW RAM

S

AKA LYMAN | PH: ANDREW RAM

S

WADE ASATO | PH: MAURICE AUB

UCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/M

AURICEAUBUCHON

JEFF HUBBARD | PH: MAURICE

AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/M

AURICEAUBUCHON

Ph: Dave Baker

Ph: Alex Verharst

Ph: Conan Whitehouse

Ph: Maurice Aubuchon

Ph: Patrick Grady

Ph: Dave Baker

My life and the USBA are so intertwined I think my wife is starting to get jealous. Sometimes she helps with the tour but even as a wife of a hardcore bodyboarder, she can get sick of my obsession. But that is life. You become what you love.

So if you are like me, there is really no room to complain. I made my bed so now I must lay in it.

The USBA has done as many things for me as I have done for it. Sometimes it keeps me out of the water, but it fills the void in other ways. There is a lot of satisfaction in being around die hard bodyboarders and watching the next generation rise to the occasion. Who is going to dethrone Jeff Hubbard in 2011? Maybe it will be JB Hillen or Trevor Kam. Maybe someone else.

Taking a step back to the first of March, I just finished working with the IBA on the Turbo Pipeline event. Out of nowhere the AVP—Association of Volleyball Professionals—calls me. The call, ad lib as it was, went something like this: AVP: Hi, this is the AVP! We would really like to partner with the USBA this June in Huntington.

USBA (ME): Go on.

AVP: Well, it seems we need to run our Huntington Beach event on your permitted dates.

USBA: Hmmm, okay, what can I help you with then?

AVP: Well, how does a giant scaffolding sound at half the cost?

USBA: Sounds good. Anything else?

AVP: Nope. Just that we need to run directly behind your event. Sound good?

USBA: Fine by me. Volleyball it is.

Fast forward to the first of June when I find myself in John Wayne Airport lugging bag after bag of contest equipment off the conveyer belt. Three days of setting up and testing, and then we are up and running the Sport Chalet US Open of Bodyboarding. With the best staff, a webcast second to none, plus a decent three to four foot swell hitting the pier, we were rocking. Granted it is Huntington Beach and not the Wedge, the riders made the best of the surf. Jacob Romero flipped his way to victory, taking the cash and accepting the praise from fifteen thousand spectators on the beach. All in all, the event was a great success. From success to misfortune, we had a tragedy at Huntington. Brother in arms, Matt Hamilton, suffered a stroke in his semi-final Dropknee Pro heat. Matt had been ripping and representing the CA properly when he suddenly slipped into convulsions. Our hearts go

PHOTOS COURTESY OF USBA | MICHELLE ROZZEN

BUD | PH: JORDAN STALLARD

DUBB | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

out to Matt, his girlfriend Jess, and their son. Fortunately, Matt is still with us, fighting hard and working his way back to the water. If you are interested, show support by visiting www.chewyham.com.

One month later I find myself on the shores of Oahu. The eleventh of July crept in fast and our crew is preparing for The Dave and Busters Sandy Beach Pro. Forced to move the event from Independence Day weekend to the following weekend because of permits, by a stroke of fortune it worked in favor of the riders. The eleventh and twelfth of July were pumping at the hallowed reef at Half Point.

Every bodyboarder on the island went to Dave and Busters in Honolulu to celebrate Guilherme Tamega’s first win on the USBA tour. Karla Costa Taylor also locked in her first national title while amateur Trevor Kam renounced his amateur status by making his first final on the USBA Pro Tour. Dave and Busters raged into the night with games and laughs exchanged between the USBA extended family.

From Aka and Shawnee Lyman to the Hubbard brothers, all of bodyboarding’s faithful were in attendance to enjoy the festivities.

Fast forward to the twenty-seventh of August and all I am thinking is, “Man, I hope I get waves for my birthday tomorrow.” I make my way back to the New Jersey shores for the seventh straight year for the SCION Jenks Pro.

GT DRIVING HIS WAY TO THE FINALS | PH: JORDAN STALLARD

Jenks is my backyard and the main man Hurricane Earl was making his way up the right coast.

Day one, I bust my butt to make it from the plane to a Body Glove Bus promo tour at 3rd Ave Surf (one of the sponsors for the Jenks Pro) in Spring Lake, New Jersey. I come to find out that ninety percent of the kids that came to support were bodyboarders. Bodyboarding truly has a home in New Jersey. After the promo, it is straight home to crash after a quick hug and “G‘day” to the parents.

I wake up. It is my birthday and there are waves.

I work with the New Jersey groms on a secondary event poster, run and surf Manasquan Inlet. Birthday dinner, a couple beers with the boys, and I am out like a light. The jet lag is wearing on me.

Sunday, I wake up and there are waves again.

Walled up but something to work with. By no means is it worth writing home about, especially because I am already at home. Monday comes and it is time to put up the scaffolding. Uhhh, I hate doing this. It is a long, tedious, brutal labor, but as bodyboarders we have to pay our dues.

Tuesday comes and it is check in day. Holy crap! There are waves! Where the heck did this come from?

The world shows up at Jenks and somehow there is a nice reinforcement. Ramps and wedges all over the place. It is a miracle anyone checked in at all.

Wednesday goes from on-call to one-hundred percent go. Somehow nobody shows up either. Only one of my local buddies named Brody shows up early and gets the shack of the day and gives us the thumbs up to start running heats. Dropknee Pro and Teams Challenge hit the water.

Thursday comes and we are fired up. Wait, wait, wait … too big. Great! We are on hold. It is a risky call. It is the East Coast after all. It could be flat tomorrow. We opt to free surf on the mid-day tide. Man, it is big. I saw a set hovering around eight foot Hawaiian. No joke.

The other side is pumping, offshore and rampy. Manasquan is infiltrated with spongers. I get the blame from the New Jersey locals. I hear it all week, “They’re not supposed to come to this side.” Luckily locals are locals and they are going to get theirs no matter who is around. The Hawaiians get a few and are convinced of Jersey’s potential. I have been saying this for years, but don’t waste your time. It sucks. I swear this is my new anthem.

It is Friday, batten down your hatches. Earl is sweeping in. Great! Now we have to take down the whole set up just to put it back up in a couple days. Again my back breaks. Steve Action Jackson’s back breaks, too. On the other hand, the bodyboarding talent of the US is stoked once again. They have waves and a legit venue.

Luckily before the breakdown I slipped in the water and got a bomb down the beach that reminded me of Puerto, making me rethink my move to Hawaii. Why leave all this? Pizza, boardwalk, barrels, small crowds … and did I mention Pizza?

It is Saturday and, holy crap, Punta Colorado comes to the New Jersey shore. Wait. This is better than Punta.

This is Jenks, old school Jenks, winter time power in board shorts Jenks. Barrels to ramps … ramps to hop over to second ramp. Damn! I do not want to run an event. I want to surf.

Jeff unleashes in his first heat, GT destroys and becomes a believer in New Jersey, and JB Hillen starts to get the champs worried. Me, on the other hand, I am on the mic two heats in on the webcast going, “What the hell is going on? Is this happening once again? Does New Jersey really love us or are we being prepped for a big pay back in years to come?” I guess we will find out.

Heat three: I am up. Oh great, I am beat. I slept four hours every night since I arrived and have been working harder than an immigrant during the recession. Oh no, I just missed the first thirty seconds of my heat. First wave … boom! Best barrel I have had in New Jersey for years. Best heat at Jenks I have ever had but that is all I get. I think subconsciously I knew I needed to bow out because things were about to get crazy.

The battle goes on, the locals bow out but not before Chuck Guarino takes out an on-fire Spencer Skipper and JB Hillen. Did I mention Spencer did a full rotation vertical air-reverse straight out the gate in his first heat? For Chuck, though, it is like riding a bike. Chuck is at home.

Jeff Hubbard continues, scraping by in his first heat, hassling Babby Quinones. Jeff has now found his stride, looking tough to beat. Guilherme Tamega (GT) eats “tough to beat” for breakfast. Or Acai … whatever he finds first in the fridge. GT smashes the youth. Beat it groms. The New Jersey Parkway is back up the road and it leads to the airport. JB Hillen, rebuttals with each barrel to flip, invert, and roll. Matt Holtzman, in his first professional contest ever, backs JB up like a Hawaiian youth mafia learning the ropes from the New Jersey boys.

The final is here. It is Jeff, GT, Matt, and JB in the forty minute heat. There were so many score exchanges: 8.5 to Jeff; 8.3 to JB. GT smashes a big flip; paddles back out and nails a gigantic invert. Matt dark horses and gets a crazy left barrel but no exit maneuver. JB again lays out another huge flip. Jeff comes back with a roll to flip combo, playing the criteria perfectly. Buzzer sounds and JB misses his first win by 0.4. Jeff is champion once again!

The carry out, the awards, the relief ... it is almost done. Not before rewarding the guy who really deserves some credit—my dad. He took home the most prestigious USBA award for outstanding support of the sport’s athletes, “The Legend’s Award.” This guy has had more bodyboarders stay at his house than Backpackers on the North Shore.

He smiles, takes the award, and tells everyone he loves them but hopes they start making money because he is retiring and wants his floor space back.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF USBA | PH: MATT CATALANO

We still have amateurs tomorrow and Women Pro. The surf is still pumping. Three hour session before dark, set up the SCION party, pick up the wife (who is sick), crash, and do it all over again tomorrow.

So the year is done. Champions have been crowned.

Sponsors are ecstatic. The sport itself has progressed in and out of the water. But my voice is also done. My bank account ... flattened. There is a big smile on my face. For a moment, at least.

I have three months to get sponsors on board for next year and start up the Hawaii Regional Tour for the groms once again. I am beat. This is what life is all about, though. Let’s do it all over again.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF USBA | PH: MATT CATALANO

Ph: Warren Anderson

Ph: Dave Baker

Ph: Warren Anderson

Ph: Manny Vargas

Ph: Dave Baker

Ph: Elmo Ramos

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

NIC LUGO, BAHAMAS, HURRICANE EARL | PH: DICK “MEZ” MESEROLL

DAVE HUBBARD | PH: EDWIN MORALES

MICAH “DA HAMMAH” MCMULLIN | PH: BRYAN PEZMAN PEZPIX.COM

LEROY “DA LANDLORD” KAIWI | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

MATT LACKEY | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

RAFFI MEYER | PH: AARON GOULDING JAGMEDIAPRODUCTIONS.COM

RYAN RHODES | PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM

NICK TROTTER DROP IN | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

KALEO LANCASTER “SNAP” | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

MIKE ZINER | PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM

BOBBY | PH: NICK BORGENS

TOM PAGANO | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | A-FRAMEMAG.COM

BOBBY K | PH: NICK BORGENS

KUPAI KEAHI | PH: DAMIEN ANTIOCO / DOOMA PHOTOS

Ph: Mathew Clark

Ph: Kristy Kaku

Ph: Alex Verharst

Ph: Maurice Aubuchon

Ph: Maurice Aubuchon

Ph: Maurice Aubuchon

Ph: Martin Justinevicius

Ph: Neal Miyake

Ph: Evan Fa

Ph: Martin Justinevicius

Ph: Cole Yamane

Ph: Aaron Goulding

EUKAREZT, THE BODY OF CHRIST

BY NICHOLAS SEYMOUR

Hailing from the island of Oahu, Eugene Kristofer Menor, aka Eukarezt, is a prolific graffiti and tattoo artist. Originally from Northern California, he grew up in the city where he gained his life long addiction to street art. He started writing graffiti at a young age, developing his skills by tracing other graffiti writers’ letters.

Soon enough, through countless all night painting binges in the city, he matured into his own, unique style.

PH: NICHOLAS SEYMOUR

Eukarezt has traveled the world to paint in such

places as Australia, Japan, and even Jordan. Over time, he has gained recognition as a graffiti artist and was inducted as a member of the The Seventh Letter crew, whose membership includes arguably some of the world’s most renowned graffiti artists.

In addition, Eukarezt has attended YWAM (Youth with a Mission) in Australia and New Zealand to teach seminars on art as a form of outreach to foreign countries.

Nicholas Seymour was able to pin down Eukarezt long enough to ask him a few questions about his life and art.

Nicholas: How did you get into art, specifically graffiti?

Eukarezt: It all began with my Lola (grandmother) and cousin. My grandmother would draw He-man, Bruce lee, Elephants, and Tom Cruise, because my cousin would never let me look at his comic books.

Not to mention, graffiti was everywhere growing up in Northern California, so it just naturally became part of everyday life.

Nicholas: Why graffiti over other art forms?

Eukarezt: Haha! Why not? Nah, it was just something that spoke to me. I was interacting with every piece on my journey to school. Seeing the adventure and risk people took to create art. Not for money, but for the sake of creating art!

Nicholas: Where do you find your inspiration?

Eukarezt: Everything. Lots of coffee. Ah, Jesus Christ. I was getting my ass beat by my cousins this Christmas. I was wondering what would Jesus do?

So I gave ‘em a head bunt. Life is my inspiration.

PH: NICHOLAS SEYMOUR

Nicholas: What made you want to get involved in the tattoo scene?

Eukarezt: It was the next season in my art career to become more of a professional. My Father is all tatted up, so that’s what I know; who I wanted to be like.

Nicholas: Do you feel like your lifestyle and art are connected. If so, in what ways?

Eukarezt: Definitely, it’s connected because I’m the same on how I live my life and how I do my art. I don’t try to pretend to be anything else but me.

Nicholas: Can you talk about how you got the name Eukarezt and what it means?

Eukarezt: Eukarezt came about with the execution of my alter egos “Rest” and “Eukalyptz.”

Eukarezt is also a collaboration of my first name, Eugene-Kristofer. The Catholics used the term “euchrist,” meaning the body of Christ.

To make a long story short, I am a part of the body of Christ.

Nicholas: What are your plans for the future with art and life?

Eukarezt: To do the same thing I’ve always been doing—Seek God’s guidance in everything. I make plenty mistakes and I’m far from being a saint, but I believe if I have that in line everything else should be well aligned, too.

Nicholas: What are some of your cherished accomplishments in art and life?

Eukarezt: That I can actually make a living and support my family with the gift of art.

Nicholas: What would you say to a new upcoming artist whether in graffiti or in painting in general?

Eukarezt: Stay humble or else somebody else will humble you suckahz.

To follow Eukarezt and his art, go to his webpage www.eukarezt.blogspot.com.

PH: NICHOLAS SEYMOUR

Ph: Manny Vargas

Ph: Alex Verharst

Ph: Conan Whitehouse

Ph: Maurice Aubuchon

Ph: Aaron Goulding

Ph: Martin Justinevicius

Having known Karla as a husband and friend for over ten years, I have some different insights into her persona than others. To me, Karla is a typical fun loving Brazilian girl, a loving wife and mother. But one of the main things setting her apart is an obvious talent in bodyboarding.

One of the best compliments she is paid is that she surfs like a guy. Really, this needs to be qualified with the statement that sometimes she even surfs like some of the best guys in the world. In surf around five to six feet, she could conceivably win a heat against anyone, almost anywhere … from beach break slop to pitting Pipe and Backdoor.

There is no question that some of the stuff she can do in the water is un-girl like. Sometimes I think that if she could consistently compete better, she would never lose a heat. Of course, the nature of competition is that the most talented does not always win.

She does not have any ego to match her freaky ability. She is just as happy to go in the water with kids experiencing bodyboarding for the first time as she is to go

and compete with her rivals at Pipe. She is part normal, part freak, and just Karla … and that is what makes her unique.

Claudia: So you really made a strong come-back this past year, winning the Zicatela event in Puerto Escondido and taking home the women’s title on the USBA Tour. What was your secret recipe for achieving such strong results after the long hiatus?

Karla: Haha! No secret. I am really thankful for this past year. I think everyone has their own secret place where everything is in balance; maybe that is where I am at right now.

After being away from the competition scene for a while, having kids and focusing on giving them everything, I started to feel the drive to find myself again. The perfect balance is what is difficult because, in one hand, you want to find time for yourself and, in the other, you want to give the kids the best of you. I think this is every mom’s struggle. My family has really been through a lot the past few years, so to achieve this success in competition is a bit of a relief and joy.

LADIES CHANP KARLA COSTA TAYLOR | PH: ARTHUR POLANARIO

Training wise I surf as much as possible. I choose places where I can catch more waves, focus on different maneuvers, and push my own limits. I joined the gym, so when the waves are flat I go and work on my strength and cardio. I think the most important of all is the mind. I do a lot of visualization, either to get a move right or a heat in competition. I also pray a lot. God has been the difference in times of pressure and struggle. Sometimes I am down and praying gives me relief.

Claudia: I have known you from the first steps of your career to your success as world champion, and this definitely has to be one of your best years! What are your plans considering these new changes to the IBA World Tour?

Karla: Jeeeez! Thanks Claudia! This means a lot coming from you. You are my best surfing partner here in Hawaii and an inspiration in my life. Again, I am not thinking too much about that. I feel really incredible achieving all of this. It took me so long to get to a point where contests are just contests. I feel my best when my surfing just flows and

if I can do that, results will come. But, really, 2010 is a year I will never forget!

Claudia: What did u think about the Zicatela Contest, disregarding your result?

Karla: Disregarding my result, it was one of my favorite events of all time. The contest staff did everything to make the contest a success, and it was! I am just so thankful they chose to have us there. I am also glad the girls supported the event and hope it becomes bigger and bigger in the future. We got so much press from it, too. I had a blast with my friends, and I surfed better than I’d surfed in years. The girls were all ripping. We laughed, we played around, and Betty came along filming every step of it. I met some really cool people along the way. The locals were so supportive.

Claudia: Can you comment on the new changes on the IBA? Karla: I think it’s better to wait and see before I comment.

From the women’s side, I can say we are organizing ourselves more in order to promote, encourage, and market

SEQUENCE ARS | PH: EDWIN MORALES

our division. Taking more control of what we want as our image. The men have clearly found theirs, we need to reach ours.

Claudia: How about support from your family?

Karla: My family is incredible. I have so much support from my mom and brother and dad. They are always positive, cheering me on and encouraging me. It’s really special. My role model is my mom, for sure. The older I get the more I appreciate and realize the sacrifices she made for us, and how she guided us—maybe it was instinct—in the right direction. Alistair has been there from the start, encouraging me when I didn’t feel my best. He and his family are very loving and supportive. My kids are amazing. They make me laugh. They make me appreciate life and what is really important. My friends are amazing, too. I have a group of friends in Hawaii that cheer me through anything.

They make it all worth while.

Claudia: Do you think your kids will end up on the world tour like you and Al?

Karla: Haha! Wouldn’t that be incredible? Either way, I will be there supporting whatever the kids choose to do.

Claudia: Here is a tough one: How could we get more sponsors to support women’s bodyboarders?

Karla: That has always been a tricky one. I think it’s really important to know what the company supporting you wants from you. If it’s contest results then do it. If it’s image and marketing, prepare something they can use. If it’s promoting through schools, make that happen. I am learning a lot from the girls on tour right now. They are so professional.

Some of them have their own bodyboarding schools and associations where they hold events, while others just compete. Anyways, it is important to find a place for yourself in all of this and then prepare a good proposal and look for a company that will support and respect you. I have turned down a lot of proposals because they didn’t respect me. They just thought they could own me for nothing. My choices have been more from the heart, and that’s just how I am. It is also important to start from the bottom, show you are worth it, and then negotiate something better. I really

had to humble myself to make this work but, in the end, I am glad I did it.

Claudia: Sketch the dream tour for you in terms of events, venues, prize, media, organization, sponsors, etc.

Karla: It would be interesting to have the tour going to the most diverse places possible. Events in good venues like Pipeline, Mexico, Brasil (Iatacoatiara). Prize money requirements of $50,000US or more. Media coverage with webcasts, interviews, and profiles. Essentially, giving a true picture of what is behind the scenes of the athletes on tour.

A TV show dedicated to women, respecting our needs and wishes. An organization that would have the same interest for men and women. Sponsors that would relate to women … the things that we buy, use, and need. For example, skin care, hair products, clothing, and shoes. I think it would be incredible to have a sponsor of a brand that we all know and can relate to.

Claudia: Tell us something about you that we don’t already know.

Karla: I am a kid at heart, really. I don’t take myself too serious; but, at the same time, if something serious happens in my life that needs attention then I am the first to jump in, confront, and take control. I don’t know … it’s weird to talk about myself.

Claudia: Give us some departing words …

Karla: I need to first thank the people that make it all happen, my family—Al, Joshua, and Maika. Without their support and love I couldn’t do all this. My family in Brasil, my brother and mom. My family in South Africa, my friends in Hawaii, Claudia, the Jensen Family, and the crew of Brazilians. My friends on tour, boogie chicks crew, and my sponsors—North Shore Soap Factory, Agencia Nucleo, Science. God for giving me this talent. Lastly, if you really love something, stop thinking of reasons why you shouldn’t do it and start working towards your dreams because, in the end, all you take from this life is your experiences and people you touched along the way.

-END

SETTING HER LINE | PH: EDWIN MORALES

PH: AARON MIZUSHIMA

JADE CHARGING | PH: SHEA SEVILLA

AYAKO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON

LILLY POLLARD | PH: EMMA ROBY

TEXT BOOK BOTTOM TURN CLAUDIA FERRARI | PH: ANGEL SALINAS

EMMA ROBY HOLDING IT DOWN | PH: LILLY POLLARD

CHRISTINA DELIMA NEXT MOVE? | PH: AL

BOHEM

BEAUTY OF CHRISTINA DELIMA | PH: ASH TANAKA

KELLY DK

: JOHN |

NAP | PH

STYLING S

PHY.NET

HOTOGRA

LAHAINAP

MAUI GIRL KELLY GORDON

LEILA ALLI | PH: SCOTT WINER

ROBERTA BITZER ALWAYS SMILING| PH: JASON BITZER

ROBERTA BITZER SETTING HER LINE| PH: TYLER HARMON

LACHELLE YASUTAKE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

When I first heard about the Canarias it seemed awfully bizarre. In 1996, I met a Canarian, Alex Diaz, on the World Tour in Guaruja, Brazil, and asked him the obvious question, “Do you have good waves there?” Alex then elaborated on the surf back at home, but especially a place called El Frontón. For some reason, through the years I never forgot Alex’s description of El Frontón. It intrigued me.

Several years later in 1999, again in Brazil, I became friends with another Canarian, Ardiel Jimenez. Ardiel also vouched for El Frontón. Still I had never seen a photo or any video of the wave. Then No Friends 7 was released and, finally, El Frontón ap-

DAILOS RODRIGUEZ | PH: ELMO RAMOS | RIDEITBB.COM

peared in its brutal, mutant form with veteran Guilherme Tamega running rampant in its jaws. I’d never seen a wave like that in my whole life. I began yearning to know El Frontón in person.

Some years later, Magno Oliveira and I decided to go to the Canaries to stay with Ardiel. We couldn’t believe it. Not only would we be able to see but possibly ride El Frontón. Plus we’d get to know the island of Gran Canaria.

When we arrived on Gran Canaria, Ardiel showed us the beaches, waves, secret spots, food, and… the girls. Unfortunately, because it was the tail end of summer, there were no guarantees that we’d score El Frontón. Still, I remember the weather suited me so well because it was so similar to Brazil.

Then one day, after patiently waiting, we heard that El Frontón might be breaking. As we checked it, all I can say is love at first sight. Even though it was summer, El Frontón was four to five feet, sunny, and perfect! It was more than anything I expected. After a few magic sessions with my new friends and a few blood donations to the lava reef, I knew there was something majestic about El Frontón.

OLIVER HERRERA | PH: ELMO RAMOS | RIDEITBB.COM

JONATHAN VEGA | PH: ELMO RAMOS | RIDEITBB.COM

ARITZ ELUSTONDO | PH: ELMO RAMOS | RIDEITBB.COM

In the Canaries, bodyboarding is more practiced than surfing and even soccer. “El Boogie,” as the canaries call it, is the culture and passion of the people. So naturally I fell in love with Gran Canaria and El Frontón, and this is where I live and call home today with my wife and little one, Luana.

As a photographer, I have a special relationship with El Frontón. Through my photos I hope you can see my point of view.

RIDER: TYLER CHING | PH: DAVE BAKER | CANCELCLOTHING.COM

KAINOA PROFILE | PH: MASON ROSE | MASONROSEMEDIA.COM

KAINOA ON A PIPE BOMB | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

Kainoa McGee demands respect both by his mere presence and pure, raw talent in the water. Not only did he take dropknee in big waves to another level (a level to which he has not be surpassed), but he brought legitimacy to the sport of bodyboarding at the most revered wave in the world—Pipeline. Cult classics like Fumanchu, an all dropknee film, are only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Kainoa’s freakish ability in the water. Kainoa has thus moved on to mastering standup surfing and SUP in the same waves he earned his keep on a bodyboard. Very few, if anyone at all, can stake claim to such a profound achievement.

With all the different rumors floating around the industry about Kainoa, from his outrage a few years ago when they gave away his seat at the Pipe comp, to SUPing, to the release of his own board brand, it’s hard to put a finger on what is or isn’t true about the Hawaiian these days. For that reason, Surge decided to give Uncle Kai an avenue to let readers know firsthand. With long time friend Joseph Libby, videographer and photographer, behind the questions expect nothing short of the blunt, honest truth.

JL: What’s new? And what you got coming up in the near future?

KM: The newest thing that I have going on is that I started The Kainoa McGee Board Company in partnership with Gregg Taylor and Turbo Surf Designs. We’re starting out with SUP boards and all the accompanying accessories.

Included in the board packs are: your choice of board, all carbon paddle, deck pad, tail pad, leash, fin, and board bag.

That’s right … it’s all included with the purchase of a board pack. I’m doing the sales in the U.S. personally to ensure quality control and to avoid over saturation in the market. It’s a limited release and there are only fifty one total boards available for sale. Go to kainoamcgee.com for more details. I’m also going to do a bunch of Kainoa McGee Surf Academy clinics worldwide to help support and promote the sport and our board sales personally with our international distributors. So keep a look out for our traveling circus and sign up for our clinics if you are near the venues as they will fill up quickly.

JL: What made you decide to start surfing and SUPing?

KM: I’d been bodyboarding so long that I was spoiled.

I would only hit the water when the waves were big and gnarly or going off. By starting shortboarding, longboarding, and SUPing, it allowed me to surf everyday and also to surf certain spots that aren’t very good for bodyboarding but are the shit for all the other boards. I surf places like Waikiki and Ala Moana more than ever and I’m loving it.

Go figure. Never thought I’d hear myself say that … ever.

I’m able to design boards that work in crap which even makes surfing on junk, choppy small days fun. It makes it seem as if the waves were actually good. Technology and design make it fun to experiment and I get to try so many different things that may or may not work. I’m always looking to push progression through design and technology to even out the playing field for big guys like myself to compete and actually stand a fighting chance against the smaller and lighter surfers in small, shitty waves. I’m actually working with a Japanese company and a friend of mine named Yu, and we are going to come out with some crazy ass boards that will blow people’s minds. I should have some prototypes by spring or summer, and I will put the pictures and even some videos on my website when we get the chance. People are going to be super stoked when they see and use these boards.

JL: What is your favorite? Surf, SUP, or bodyboarding? And why?

KM: I actually love them all but I gotta say even though I don’t bodyboard as much anymore (which will change significantly when we launch the bodyboard line), I’m still a bodyboarder first in my heart and everything else is pretty much a tie for second. Without bodyboarding, none of these other things are possible. Certain time and places determine what I will use and, at that time, whatever board I’m using is the best one.

JL: What do you think of the present day DK riders?

KM: I think that the present DKers and most bodyboarders that I’ve seen in general, outside of guys like Bud Miyamoto, Hubb, Skippy and a bunch of the Aussie contingent, are weak. The biggest reason I say that is their surfing, literally, is weak. Everybody is so concerned with throwing tail that there is no spray or buckets being thrown, just tail. The best quote I ever heard was from Shane Dorian when he was asked to comment on a two page spread that they ran of him in a surf magazine. They asked him to comment on what appeared to me to be a sick shot and he said, “That it was a good power turn gone bad” because it ended up turning into a tail slide. If your tail comes out because the turn is so powerful that the end result is buckets and chunks of water flying everywhere and the tail has no other option but to slide, that’s one thing; but when you do a tail slide just so the tail comes out of the water without chunks, that’s gay and embarrassing to me as a bodyboarder and I’m even more embarrassed for the guy or girl that did it because they think they’re doing something sick but they’re not. In reality, it’s actually just plain sickening.

Why do you guys think that bodyboarders, in general, don’t get the respect that is deserved? It’s that weak ass shit that gives us a bad name. Do something that actually causes you to put your board on the rail and throw some damn chunks. They all want to do maneuvers and

KAINOA PROFILE | PH: MASON ROSE | MASONROSEMEDIA.COM

ONE OF HIS MANY DICIPLINES SUP | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

airs where it doesn’t belong and they waste perfect waves.

When I was doing the commentator for the Pipe event I saw that in every heat and it pissed me off. Pipe is a barrel riding wave first and maneuvers second. But the way they were surfing was exactly the opposite of that. They lack the knowledge of how to actually surf the waves. Use what the waves give you rather than forcing stupid, lame, gay ass maneuvers that end up with them wasting the rest of the wave. They do one, in their mind, good maneuver and the rest of the wave is wasted. This goes for the majority of bodyboarders, not just DK. I used to judge the local tour for Cory Correa and Paul Cooper when they were doing it and I was so frustrated with the wackness of the quality of surfing and the utter lack of wave knowledge and actual skill that I just stopped judging because it broke my heart to see my beloved sport in its present state.

JL: What’s your advice to any grom trying to be a good DK rider?

KM: Watch Fu Manchu and concentrate on guys like Aka Lyman, Cavin Yap, and Keith Sasaki, and watch the beautiful combination of power and finesse. They use power where you’re supposed to and finesse where it’s needed.

You need to be well rounded and turn your weaknesses into strengths. Most people from all walks of life nowadays work on their strong points and their weaknesses are so bad that they over shadow their strengths. If you work on your weakness and turn it into a strength then you will be strong at everything making you pretty much unstoppable.

JL: So, you’re into “power surfing.” What’s the basic principles of riding with power? I mean, how would you teach it?

KM: You simply need to put the damn board on a rail when you turn it. That’s what it’s there for, so use it. The reason most bodyboarders lack the skill to do a power turn is that they don’t have the correct technique. Size and weight matter to a certain extent, but not as much as you think. I know most people reading this are probably thinking that it is easy for me to say because I’m bigger. The truth is I wasn’t anywhere near this size when I was younger.

When I graduated high school I was the same height that I am now (6’2”) but weighed 165 pounds. That’s right, I was one skinny bastard. Now I’m still 6’2” but I weigh fluctuate between 210 and 220 depending on what kind of training I’m doing at the time. If you don’t believe me, watch the video “The Indonesian Experience” and you will see that I was practically anorexic but I still surfed the same. The technique was the same then as it is now. It’s that proper technique which has allowed me to use my new found girth to be even stronger and throw more chunks. But it all starts with the proper technique.

Haha!

JL: What’s your opinion about the sport of bodyboarding right now? And the future?

KM: The future is looking blindingly bright. The biggest reason is that my man Gregg Taylor has acquired the rights to the IBA Tour and, from my personal experience, he is one of the best people that I know. He will always have the sport’s best interest at heart and will help push competition and proper surfing. His first order of business and priority will be to make sure that the sport is marketed properly. He understands that in order for our sport to thrive everyone must benefit from its resurgence and not just him and his companies.

If there is more money coming into the sport as a whole then it will become more competitive, which is going to be what is needed for our rise back to the top.

Meaning that because the competition between companies and riders will become so fierce that everybody is going to spend the type of money and time on R and D to benefit not only the riders but the consumers as well. There will be much better product on the market place through research and technology, and it will eventually be made available for consumer consumption. See, competition is good for everybody.

JL: Any DK riders out there that deserve props?

KM: I’m not up on the new kids on the block, but my favorites are still Aka Lyman and Bud Miyamoto.

JL: I’ve never seen you in fear when it comes to big waves. Describe what wave would make you fear.

KM: To some extent that is true. It’s not that I don’t feel fear because I do. But I try to turn that fear into excitement so that I can channel the nervous energy, which most of the time is absolutely overwhelming, into something positive and use it as adrenaline and excitement. And we all know that adrenaline and excitement is definitely better than fear.

The one time that I’ve been out in big surf and had no inkling of wanting to surf was that huge day at Teahupoo when Malik caught that massive wave. I was on the back of Manoa Drollet’s jet ski watching the waves with Bruce and Manoa, and I actually said I’m good right where I am. That was the first time I was out in waves that big and actually didn’t want to surf. The swell was so west and I seen so many of the boys get cracks that I was over it. Plus, I had never towed in at that time at all, and I had only been riding a surfboard for about a year and a half. It was also my first real trip to Teahupoo so there was no way that my first day towing was going to be that day. I wasn’t going to risk my life to do something that I was nowhere near being prepared for and had no business being out there. Believe me, I’m a proud bastard and I take a lot of pride in what I do but I’m not stupid. I may be dumb but I’m not stupid.

JL: How do you defeat fear? I mean, what do you do mentally and physically to conquer fear?

KM: I turn every fear into a competition and face it head on. Fear is healthy because you need to adequately acknowledge it and properly respect what it is that you are afraid of. Then I turn it into a competition. Once you do that you are now on a level playing field and you give yourself the opportunity to win. Don’t act like it doesn’t exist because it does. Acknowledge it. Therefore you can move past it. If you act like it doesn’t exist you only end up in denial, which never works. You don’t overcome it and eventually it will come back and bite you in the ass.

JL: What kind of training are you doing?

KM: I love to do tons of cross training and rarely do sport specific training. I find that I do my sports so much that anything more becomes too much and I end up getting injured due to over use. My new addiction is water polo. My daughters started playing it like four years ago, and we’ve been hooked ever since. I’m pretty sure that I’m more obsessed than my girls. But like I’ve said before, “Losing sucks and mediocrity is unacceptable,” so of course being half assed at it doesn’t sit well with me. The workout is unlike any other and I love it. I’m not that good yet but I try my best and I’ll get better the more I get my ass kicked … cheehooo!

JL: Who are your top five all time watermen?

KM: As far as all around waterman the list goes as follows (I know that you asked for five but Lee Boy and another deserve to be in there so there are seven): Duke Kahanamoku, Gerry Lopez, Tom Carroll, Brian Keaulana, Ikaika Kalama, and Keali’i Mamala.

They say that you always save the best for last, and the one guy who is most important on this list that is personally responsible for me having the frame of mind and attitude to do what I do is Kavan Okamura. He was never the biggest guy but he made up for it with pure, unadulterated power. The thing about his power, though, is that he was so smooth and graceful that if you didn’t pay close attention to him on the waves you wouldn’t have realized it.

Not only was his surfing amazing but his attitude in and out of the water was even more ferocious. As I said he wasn’t the biggest guy so sometimes people made the mistake of messing with him, and those that did quickly found out that size doesn’t always matter. He knew who he was and what he could do and he wouldn’t let anyone else tell him otherwise.

Back in the day when you could compete as a pro and an amateur in the same contest, Kavan regularly won both divisions. I mean as an amateur he was going out there and beating the pros. That was unheard of back in the day,

KAINOA PROFILE | PH: MASON ROSE | MASONROSEMEDIA.COM

DK MAESTRO | PH: NEAL MIYAKE | HISURFADVISORY.COM

but for Kavan it was all just another day at the beach.

Another thing that people might not realize is that Kavan and I grew up at “Da Wall” at Waikiki Beach, which is obviously not known as a big wave spot. Nor were the bodyboarders coming out of Waikiki known as big wave riders. Well, Kavan dispelled everyone of those stereotypes the first time that he surfed Pipe. He went out there and was surfing it as if he’d done it his whole life. He was doing the biggest, roundest and highest rollos and getting the deepest, heaviest barrels. Now seeing and watching all of this in awe is one thing, but I now realize that this guy is my ride and the guy I’d surfed with the most. At that time, I was just a little skinny ass bodyboarder who’d never surfed Pipe before and I was with one of the craziest guys that I knew on the planet.

Another thing that Kavan was was old school. So if he yelled for you to go on a wave, no matter how big or gnarly looking it was you’d better go or get cracks. So I chose to go knowing that the beating or ridicule I would face if I didn’t go would be much worse than what would happen to me from the wave.

Therefore, he is the one guy that deserves all of the credit for the crazy things that I do in the surf even more than myself. Because whether we realized it at the time, he was that influence that I needed to be what I wanted to be.

He helped me become the man that I am, whether that’s good or bad all depends on who’s looking at it. So I’d like to say to Kavan from the bottom of my heart, much mahalos for all of your help and I love you very much boolay.

JL: Lots of peeps been hate’n on SUP. What do you got to say to them?

KM: I feel the same way. The problem isn’t the people that know what they are doing, it’s the jackasses that have their shiny new toy and take it out into the surf and don’t know what the hell they are doing. It’s also those guys who were never very good at surfing and they go out to surf spots they don’t normally surf and try to catch all the waves. For me, no matter what board I’m riding I’m always trying to catch all the waves so it’s not a big difference.

Also you know who gets really pissed off? The old school longboarders. You know, the guys that, when we were younger and smaller riding our bodyboards and shortboards, would catch all of the waves and just trim down the line and waste the damn waves with boards that were big enough to use a paddle with. Well, pay back is a bitch. Now, that the shoe is on the other foot and doesn’t fit so well, they’re all pissed off. It’s funny as hell to me. They make me laugh. They’re not the big dogs anymore and they gotta sit and take it like everybody else has all these years.

Yeehaw!

JL: From when you first started bodyboarding till now, describe the journey you had in “being respected” in

the heavy lineups.

KM: I literally had to fight to get where I am right now, and it was a bumpy ass ride. Imagine being a skinny ass little bodyboarder (at that time there was no way I was even 130 or a 140 pounds dripping wet and about 5’6” or 5’7” max) at Pipeline and being fourteen and fifteen years old and trying to get respect when the heavies in the water at that time were the real deal guys like Dane Kealoha, Marvin Foster, Ronnie Burns, Mike and Derek Ho, and a few others. On top of that my mouth and my attitude was much bigger and louder than my boney frame. But that didn’t stop me because I knew that I was confident in my ability and, above all else, that would be self evident “if” I was able to catch a wave. Which was obviously the biggest challenge and is one that all wave riders face at Pipe.

So what I did was sit as deep as I possibly could to make sure that I was by far the deepest guy in the line up so if a wave came to me and I went for it that there was no way anybody would be deeper than me, and then I just hoped that no one dropped in on me. And to this day, that’s still the same place that I sit regardless of what kind of board I’m riding. Well, I got dropped in on more than once and that’s where fighting for respect came in. I wasn’t going to let my size or the fact that I was riding a bodyboard be the factor that determined if I was going to get respect or not. So I literally got into fights over it and let them know that I wasn’t going to be playing that bullshit. My fight and heart and attitude was always bigger than my physical stature and some people found that out the hard way. Don’t get me wrong, I got my cracks for damn sure but I just had to make sure that I gave more than I got. But if it was the boys, it was their waves still and I understood that and hated it at the time; but I knew the rules so I begrudgingly had to suck it up and take it from them.

JL: What were your top mistakes in your career? And if you could go back, what would you do differently?

KM: The biggest mistake I made was trusting and believing what a lot of the companies promised because I got burned in return. Regardless of what the contracts said, it was still more of a headache and a loss to take them to court. That’s why I’m doing my own distribution for the Kainoa McGee Board Company for the time being because I don’t trust surf retail one bit. I mean, there are a few accounts that are trustworthy but the majority of those bastards always piss on the little guys. Even if my product is sold out they mysteriously don’t have my money. Typical surf industry bullshit.

JL: Future goals?

KM: I want to use my name, however big or small that it is, to help build our McGee and sister companies and

non-profits as big as possible and affect change in as many live as possible. The best thing about having more money is being able to help more people and to effectively make change happen for as many people that are willing to accept that help.

JL: Last words of wisdom?

KM: Believe in what you believe in and, if necessary, fight for it. Usually the things that are best fighting for are the things that are going to help as many people as possible.

Stay true to those beliefs, keep it legal, positive and real.

Much mahalos for taking the time to let me express myself.

Cheehoo!

Much love and aloha, Kainoa McGee Sent with ALOHA

H A W A I I A N

KAINOA

MCGEE WATERMAN

LOOKING FOR THE ONE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

ALL PHOTOS BY: MANNY VARGAS | MANNYVPRODUCTIONS.COM

I managed to sneak out of work for a week and head down to

Baja, Mexico for the 7th Annual Cabo Freak Fest: Ride, Party, Repeat. Freak Fest hosted twenty bodyboarders and like all years before, we shacked up in the middle of Cabo San Lucas at the hospitable Comfort Inn Las Flores. This year we had plenty of returning Freak Festers plus the originator himself, Cameron “P.A.B.” Steele. Along with P.A.B., some of the old school boogie like Chris “Won Ton” Taloa, Rachelle Perry, and the ring leader Manny Vargas, were in attendance. P.A.B. brought along one of his motocross buddies, Ox, to join in the fun, too. After checking in the posse, we were already on our way to our first surf session.

Cabo local boys Chato and Mauricio escorted us to a pretty heavy right-hand shorebreak wedge on the other side of Lover’s Beach. It was well overhead and walled. This kept a few of us out of the water, but Chato and Manny snagged a few shorebreak monsters. The boys caught waves well into the evening while the rest of us chilled on the beach.

As far as surf goes, this year’s Cabo Freak Fest treated us well. Tropical storms off the coast kept surf in the shoulder to few feet overhead range. Manny hired “Pollo” and his partner to drive us to all the breaks along the Baja peninsula this year. This meant more surf time and more exploration with the locals. Won Ton unsurprisingly seemed to always be the guy to watch. His uncanny knowledge of the ocean and mesmerizing riding style whether it be standup, drop-knee, or prone, always made for a humbling session for the rest of us. Although Chris’ style and performance was exceptional, the locals always seemed to find a way to let the group know that Cabo was still their backyard.

One evening we headed to Zippers. Zippers is a long reeling right that is typically more suitable for standup surfing, but this evening proved otherwise. Every local bodyboarder in San Jose was out claiming every wave, leaving our group scraping for leftovers. Then Won Ton snagged a wave, stood up, and killed the shit out of this wave. Everyone on the beach was in awe. When he pulled off, everyone hooted and cheered.

Needless to say, after that Won Ton got whatever wave he wanted the rest of the session.

For those that could still stand after a long day of catching waves there was the second aspect of Cabo Freak Fest … la fiesta (party)! Party is one thing Cabo San Lucas knows how to do well. The whole town is littered with bars and clubs, enticing everyone to indulge in the loud music, eye candy, and more alcohol (or soda for you non-drinkers) than one’s little heart could desire. Most of the group could not pull off the double duty of surfing and partying, but a few of us managed to do so pretty freakin’ well.

Even though there were only a couple of nights the group partied as a whole, the best night, by far, was the annual “Jungle Booze Cruise.” We themed the night “white trash” and the costumes fit every aspect of it. Non-Freak Festers aboard

ALL PHOTOS BY: MANNY VARGAS | MANNYVPRODUCTIONS.COM

ALL PHOTOS BY: MANNY VARGAS | MANNYVPRODUCTIONS.COM

ALL PHOTOS BY: MANNY VARGAS | MANNYVPRODUCTIONS.COM

didn’t know how to take to us at first, but we convinced them to join in and the drunken boat ride was one for the books.

Cabo Freak Fest is what you make it, and the people you hang with strongly influence the outcome. The first perfect example is Australian photographer Ray Collins. Beware of his sand trap, “Just one more bear” line, because next thing you know you’re waking up hung over and you just missed the best surf session of the trip. The second perfect example is Won Ton. He had a way of luring you into not partying as hard for the dawn patrol the next morning. So you’d go along and head back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep. Of course, you get that fun dawn patrol session under your belt but only to find out that you missed partying with ten Maxim models who were buying shots all night. Just your luck!

Cabo Freak Fest has it all. And it’s definitely one of the best trips suitable for either the first timer or seasoned traveler. It is a trip that’s for wave riders, partiers, or someone who is simply looking for a relaxing vacation. One thing is for certain, I’ll be there next year. Will you?

Proof The Birds (Featured glasses are shown in zebrawood with the standard lens) Proof is an eyewear company taking an old medium with sunglasses and adding a cool twist with all wood shades. The wood medium adds a warmth and look that other materials cannot replicate.

Sustainability is a key component to Proof’s DNA, they are only using wood species harvested in a sustainable manner without adverse impacts on the environment. They also offer a sunglass-recycling program where you can return your old Proofs to be recycled and get a discount on a new pair. Even all their packaging is eco-friendly.

The Birds come in three different wood species—ebony, zebrawood, and bamboo. Different wood species and grains in each frame make every pair of shades unique; there are no two pairs alike. They offer a few different lens options: a non-polarized lens, polarized lens, and two mirrored finishes (fools gold and indigo). Because these are made of wood they sit very comfortably and light on the face.

All frames have a patented treated coating to protect the wood from sweat, water, etc. That means throw them on right after getting out of the water with no worries. They also all come with wire spring hinged temples for a great fit no matter what your head size.

Proof is currently putting together a team. If you are interested in riding for Proof, drop them a message.

This style along with others will be available on Proof’s website www.iwantproof. com. You can also check them out on twitter— iwantproof and facebook—proofsunglasses.

JEREMY WRIIGHT | PH: EDWIN MORALES | FACEBOOK.COM/EDWINMORALES

JASON FINLAY | PH: BRYAN PEZMAN | PEZPIX.COM

SACHA SPECKER LAUNCH | PH: BRYAN PEZMAN | PEZPIX.COM

JORGE GONZALEZ | PH: MANUEL GONZALEZ | GONZOLENZ.COM

PYPYR LLUELLEN | PH: NEAL MIYAKE | HISURFADVISORY.COM

MIKE LEPIERE | PH: AARON GOULDING | JAGMEDIAPRODUCTIONS.COM

CESAR PETRONI | PH: EDWIN MORALES | FACEBOOK.COM/EDWINMORALES

JACOB REEVE | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | A-FRAMEMAG.COM

PAUL BENCO | PH: ANDREW RAMS

MARK WATTS | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM

JEFF HUBBARD | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM

DEREK MIYASHIRO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

PH: NEAL MIYAKE | HISURFADVISORY.COM

KEAHI PARKER | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

SPENCER SKIPPER | PH: PARKER MENDENHALL

BRENDON NEWTON | PH: MITCH NIBBS

UNIDENTIFIED | PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM

JOSE RUTHERFORD | PH: EDWIN MORALES | FACEBOOK.COM/EDWINMORALES

SPENCER SKIPPER | PH: COLIN BLACK | COLINBLACKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

THOMAS GAULKE | PH: SCOTT SPORLEDER

JACOB VANDORVELDE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

SPENCER SKIPPER | PH: CLARK LITTLE | CLARKLITTLEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

JACOB ROMERO | PH: HANS VANDERVOORT

JARED HOUSTON | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM

WESLEY JOHN LIQUORISH | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/MAURICEAUBUCHON

DAVE HUBBARD | PH: JUSTIN MACK | JMACKPHOTOS.COM

BEN PLAYER | PH: JAMES KELLY DAWSON | DEASEYDOESIT.PHOTOSHELTER.COM

UNIDENTIFIED | PH: KEAKA GONSALVES

SURGEBUZZ Toobs

Cartel

It’s been business as usual here in Morro Bay as we continue to focus our efforts on making high quality bodyboards and providing top notch customer service. Our new Carbon Core has made quite a splash with customers and team riders alike giving it rave reviews.

As far as team news, Italian dk maestro Simone Romano has been ripping in the Gold Coast of Australia, racking up footage for the highly anticipated all dropknee movie “The Lackey Project.” Local 805 dkers Brett Roldan, Darren Delmore, Willie Richerson, etc., are rumored to have some footage in the film as well. We recently added Orange County/L.A. charger Adam Dumas to the team, who recently took out the DK Wars II event at Salt Creek, and Hawaiian ripper Thomas Gaulke, who’s been busy accumulating footage with Eric Schnitzler in Panama for an upcoming podcast.

Oh, and by the way we are having a 10% winter sale at toobs.com!

Cartel is proud to announce its new G15 series to commemorate our 15 years in business. All G15’s are USA made and are available in crescent or bat tail options.

Paul Roach will be attendeding the Torneo Anual in Playa California, Km. 103 El Sauzal, Ensenada BC. Cartel distributor and hard core bodyboarder Chris Corona set the whole thing up. In more Roach news, Cartel just released his all new 42” DK model with limited hand signed versions at Alternative Surf in Seal Beach, California.

Drop by and see Ryan to get yours today.

www.toobs.com

eBodyboarding.com

www.ebodyboarding.com eBodyboarding.com is plowing through winter, and our team riders have been going big. Florida’s Andre Moura has been tearing up the FBA (Florida Bodyboarding Association) circuit, while Drew Erichson and Brian Stoehr threw it down in the USBA events this past summer. The mysterious John “Beans” Porzuczek has been exploring the Central Coast of California in between his studies at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.

Here at the office, Justin, Vicki, and I have been working hard through the Fall months to bring you a new-and-improved version of eBodyboarding.com as we get closer to 12 years in business. We’re keeping frequent updates going via our Twitter page, Facebook page, Youtube channel, and our blog page: bodyboardblog.com. See you in the water!

www.cartelboardco.com

Division 71

www.catchsurf.com 2011 is a going to be a huge year for Division 71. Brian Peterson, master shaper, has a bunch of hidden gems locked in the vault ready to be exposed this year. Team rider Mike Bain moved to California. Just the other day some kooks in La Jolla broke into his car at Marine Street. Bummer! Mike will be in Hawaii this season riding Div.71 Standard model—42 inches beaded pp, stringer, and BP’s magic new bottom contours.

Butter! In other news, Beans has totally recovered from his sex change. His claim was to reduce drag at all times. Catch all the action by following our blog: catchsurf/blog.com.

Alternative Surf

www.alternativesurf.com A local Bodyboarder named Ryan Frazzetta along with his parents stepped up to the plate. They have supported AS for years. They’re a real cool family and I’m working with them to continue pushing AS and Bodyboarding into the future. Definitely gonna be a better shop and online store. Ryan and myself want to thank everybody for their continued support of Alternative Surf Bodyboard Shops!

Custom X

www.custom-x.com

SURGEBUZZ Custom X now features all boards with the option of one, two, or our new triple stringer system. With the new Beaded polypro being a little more flexible, this allows you to purchase a board with the right flex factor for you. Custom X has also released two new leashes. The “XS” has a wider neoprene cuff for comfort and an added swivel tab for strength. Also, printed neoprene. “The Monster” is built for heavy conditions and larger waves. It features a thicker cord with longer length and an added swivel tab.

In team news, Hawaii rider Keoni Haina re-signed with Custom X. Rusty Friesen went to indo this summer with his RXYM brethren, so expect some great shots coming from him soon. Custom X Australian rider Ewan Donnachie scored another cover shot with Riptide. That was his third cover in 2010.

Both him and Adam Luehman have new boards in Australia that the U.S will have soon.

Chris Schlegal and Dan Cera traversed the Atlantic to the Canaries this late Fall with photographer/videographer Kalen Foley, who is working on his film ironically entitled Work.

Found Boards

www.mitchrawlins.com/found_boards Mitch Rawlin’s board company, Found, are available in two board models, either pe or pp. Check out the boards, shirts, other goodies, and updates from the main man himself, Mitch Rawlins at mitchrawlins.com.

The Drift Films Eric Schnitzler released the first ever bodyboarding video, offered in both dvd and BluRay, entitled Within. Along with the release, he has been traveling globe from Hoagies in Pismo Beach, Tahiti, Canary Islands, Panama, and so on, premiering and promoting the video. Eric would like to thank all his good friends like Thomas Gaulke, Mike Smith, Loea Thomas and Bry Antonio of Deep Bodyboarding, Niko Richard, girlfriend Mel Itaia, Manny Vargas, family, and many others for supporting him and promoting the premieres thus far.

Within is available for purchase at

ebodyboarding.com, Alternative Surf, Falcon’s Bodyboard Shop, Esteem Surf Shop in Pismo Beach, Atlanticbodyboards.com, The Foam Company on Maui, Miller’s in Kailua Kona. It’s on its way to Australia very soon, and already in few locations in South America.

Manta

www.manta.com.au Besides rescuing tourists as a lifeguard, Spencer “Skipp” Skipper has been holding it down as usual at Pipe with that classic style. He has a real knack for locking himself in on the best of waves out there, which he’s been doing for years. Check out his signature board model. If it works for Skipp, it’ll work for you!

Rheopaipo

www.rheopaipo.com.au Rheopaipo is back with its new ISS technology. The ISS stands for Inter-changeable Stringer System and thus allows riders to shift out stringers with varies flexes to give you the perfect setup no matter the wave, size, conditions or style of riding. More info including launch date, product info, and where to get the boards and stringers coming soon.

Turbo Surf Designs

www.turbosurfdesigns.com Jacob Romero returned back home to Maui after spending 2010 abroad on the IBA World Tour. At home he has been linking up with Chout’s Richard Lornie, Kanaka Kai’s Marcus Rodrigues, and others in order to gather footage and photographs for up and coming videos and magazines. Mason Rose and wifey, Dixie, welcome their newest addition to the family—Pheonix. Mase has also been traveling the globe, shooting bboying and dropping the knee at his new home on Oahu. Damien King’s second Joker podcast is available for viewing online. Plan on another big year from Kingy as he heads to Hawaii to give a title run this 2011. Andrew Lester won the National title event at

SURGEBUZZ D-Bah. Glenn “Sully” Sullivan is heading to Hawaii as we speak to cruise with the boys and compete in the Pipeline event. Lastly, Jared Houston has been sighted boosting big airs on the North Shore once again, which scored him the cover of Surge V2.0. Congrats Jared!

Deep Bodyboarding

www.deepbodyboarding.com Riders Matt Meyer and Mike Lepiere traveled to Australia last summer. Mike ended up extending his stay far beyond expected. Be on the lookout for the ruckus they caused down there.

As for store news, everything in stock is 25% off. Get on it while you can!

Science

www.mikestewart.com Mr. Pipeline himself, Mike Stewart, has been making waves as usual out on the North Shore. During Pipe’s opening day in November, shots of Stewy appeared on the front story featured on Surfline. Keahi Parker, Big Island, has been following Stewart’s footsteps, has been juggling countless hours at Pipe with his studies at University of Hawaii. Paul Benco, in between teaching at Castle High School, has made his fair share of cameo appearances this Winter as well. West Side wiz kid JB Hillen has been blowing minds with his air antics and just returned this past December from Canaries. Trevor Kam has also been making the drive alongside his fellow teammates. Killing it!

Thomas Rigby has been blowing minds not only at home in Australia but on the North Shore this Winter. His style is reminiscent of Stewart himself but with a new school twist. Stewart claims him as the next big deal, so you should too.

Asylum Board Shop

www.asylumboardshop.com Asylum Board Shop offers a wide variety of bodyboards and accessories. Stop by the shop in Oceanside and check us out!

BZ

www.bzproboards.com Despite Jeff “Hubb” Hubbard’s major back injury at the end of last year, he is back in full swing … flying all over place like never before. Straight out of recovery, Hubb marched through the competition at the Wild Wild Wave contest at El Fronton. The $10K probably helps. Boogie Nation released a Dave “DPhil” Phillips Summer 2010 edit on Vimeo that caught some airtime at Riptide’s website. Good luck once again this season DPhil!

Falcon’s Board Shop

www.falconsbodyboardshop.com Next time you’re in the San Diego area, visit Falcon’s Board shop in Encinitas for all your bodyboarding needs.

Morey/Churchill

www.moreybodyboards.com Straight off his injury last season, Dave “Dubb” Hubbard has been a force to reckon with. He’s been taking the IBA and USBA contests by storm. Not to mention, he has been a dominate presence the past couple weeks out on the North Shore. On one particular day, he put on an air show with huge inverts, forwards, and deep dk barrels.

Chout

www.choutfilms.com Richard Lornie’s first video attempt, Chout, debuted with a boom. He premiered the video both on Oahu at Kam Surf Night as well as at The Foam Company on Maui. Meanwhile, Richard has been logging in plenty of time on the Hawaiian island chain, shooting and prepping for Chout 2. Be on the lookout for podcasts on Youtube and Vimeo. Purchase Chout at The Foam Company on Maui.

Attica

www.atticawetsuits.com Attica would like to announce that suits

SURGEBUZZ are finally available in US stores! New Alpha-Inferno full suit Steamers in 4/3 and 3/2 feature the Inferno lining that will block out chilling water flushes and retain a warmth needed in the most important areas.

Team Attica Matt Lackey and Jacob Romero are testing the new Attica Thermal as we speak in preparation for one of the most prestigious competitions in bodyboarding—The IBA Pipeline Pro. Purchase yourself a suit at Alternative Surf, Falcon’s Board Shop, and check for more info at atticawetsuits.com.

Spunjah Chronic

www.spunjahchronic.com Things have been slowing down for Spunjah Chronic as of late although the fire still burns. The Spunjah Chronic media team has been getting a lot of work outside of the bodyboarding industry leading to less frequent updates. As for our team riders, JB Hillen made his first trip overseas with Mike Stewart to the Canary Islands. Mike and JB are there in hopes to compete in the local and world tour events and explore the heavy waves the Canaries has to offer.

Co owner Happy Zurowski has returned from his vacation in Brazil and had nothing but beautiful things to say about the country, its people, and the waves. Currently Happy has no major sponsors of any kind except for his lifelong sponsors Spunjah Chronic and Heights Productions. Of course, he is nothing but happy with the situation. As one of the very few born and raised north shore locals, he is happy to just ride.

Colin Black has also been assisting us in getting video footage in between some insane night job hours. He’s stoked on living a dream, eat, sleep, surf and more surf! Check out his photography at colinblackphotograpy.com.

In 2011, we finally plan to have shirts and stickers available to the public as well as a dvd release. You won’t find us on EgoBook … oooops! We mean Facebook, but stick around and it’ll be allllllriiiiigggghhhttt! Don’t amp, stay amped! Peace out!

Wave Rebel

www.waverebel.com In Jeremy Wright news, he is in Hawaii right now preparing for the Pipeline event just around the corner. Follow him through his blog: 4jeremywright.blogspot.com.

Bodyboard Crew

www.bodyboardcrew.com Bodyboard crew is a website run and operated by Chilean bodyboarders. Check out the site for blog and video updates provided to you by Noria Film’s maestro Cristobal Sciaraffia.

Ring of Fire Robert Isambert and his compadres returned from a two month stay in Australia this past summer. Although the surf wasn’t pumping the whole time, he was able to put in work and gather footage for his up and coming video. Ring of Fire II is still available for purchase online and at bodyboard shops. Check out the Lunar Podcast series on Vimeo provided to you by Ring of Fire’s very own, Robert Isambert.

NO.6

www.theno6.com The camp at No.6 has been busy this year developing a range around two of its newest factory team riders—Micah McMullin and “Chucky” Fallas. Micah joins the team and brings his explosive DK style to the arsenal of riders on the Six. Micah has long been regarded as one of the North Shore’s most ferocious regular foots and one of the few Hawaiians to break the Riptide Reader Poll for top DK riders. Micah is currently working on releasing a signature line with No.6 for release this Spring.

If you have been in Costa Rica, you may have crossed paths with one of the most influential riders in the scene: “Chucky” Fallas. Chucky has a heart of pure gold and is CR’s most valuable DK prodigy. No.6 is collaborating with Chucky this season on a signature hybrid-ride built for extreme

SURGEBUZZ conditions like wedging reef break and warm water.

No.6 also announces its support of the BIA 2011 season in Southern California. As one of the supporting sponsors of the BIA, No.6 is committed to the local competition circuit and upbringing of the new youth in bodyboarding.

Nomad

www.nomad.com.au Nomad has been busy this year in the media department. Known for creating some of the most influential bodyboard films on the market, Nomad released two back to back heavyweight videos this season—Traverse and The Lackey Project. Traverse features the travels of the Nomad Team through Western Oz, Cook Islands, and the Gold Coast. The video also features a host of the team’s closest friends. The Lackey Project, assembled by Lackey himself, features the who’s who of the DK elite, from Roach, Raffi, Dylan Lee, Mason Rose. It will hit stores the 1st of March!

In team news, Alex Halsey has joined the Nomad team. Alex is a rising star on the national circuit in Australia. His signature board release is slated for a limited edition one hundred units only. Look out for more from this rising star. Also be on the look out for Maui rising dk star Miles Kauhaahaa, lately Miles has been murdering the dk scene, and knocked out some big names in the BodyBoard game!

The Foam Company www.thefoamco.com

The 2010-2011 Winter on Maui has been one of the best in a long time with back to back swells combo’d with Kona winds. DK beast Miles Kauhaahaa rejoined The Foam team and has been charging huge Honolua.

He’s still a cocky bastard. Hubb flew in a couple times to link up with Richard Lornie, who has been shooting the likes of Jacob Romero on isle. Jacob Romero cut his beard and has a clean new mug. A kid got

bit at the ledge and it made its way to Surfline. Maui Ledges’ pioneers will kick you out if you show up with a crowd and a camera.

VIB—Valley Isle Bodyboards—hand crafted designs by CK will be hitting the lineup this spring. SPONGE Maui, a non-profit bodyboarding hui, held its first event—A Bodyboarding Film Fest. Amateur and professional film makers exhibited their short films about anything bodyboarding. It was a super fun time. Ha’aheo Auweloa and Kaleo Delatori tied for the “best film” award of the evening, but Ha’a ended up with the win by taking out Kaleo in an old fashioned arm wrestling match. Richard Lornie premiered his film Chout!, which is available in stores now. 150 people showed up to view the film. It’s sick. Buy it. Coming soon: “Shacks and Shakas” by Marcus Rodrigues.

RXYM

www.rxymfashion.com 4X IBA DK WORLD CHAMP & freshly signed RXYM XRMY rider, Dave Hubbard, has been literally dreaming up new freakish DK moves and then practicing them primarily during his free surfs in Hawaii. With his signature Morey “Dubb” Mach 7-SS boards hitting stores (as you read this), Dave is hungrier than ever to push not only DK riding around the world, but to showcase his newly minted prone skills. For Dave, being able to surf with 2011 PIPE Champ and brother Jeff Hubbard & fellow sparring parter David Phillips on the daily must have something to do with it (or it could simply be the power stemming from his now INFAMOUS goatee). Regardless of where his new skills are coming from, D-Phil noted, “His prone riding has improved night and day.” Will Dubb commit to another full assault on the IBA World Tour or free surf his brains out as the most versatile rider in the world? Whatever he chooses to do this year, Dubb’s spontaneity in the water makes him the most exciting rider to watch in 2011.

As reported last month, RXYM sifted through multiple resumes and finalized their RXYM AM Team. The four riders chosen are: Wedge standout Sean Deverian, super grom Shea

SURGEBUZZ Porter, BIA Champ/new Hawaii resident Ryley Colle, and graphic artist/Morey team rider Nick Arant. Look for these groms to push American riding into the future.

CA’s finest, Rusty Friesen, is looking to meet 662’s Alex Leon in Tahiti to do what they do best, RUSH massive gaping barrels. The “American Psycho” has been cruising with underground & fellow RXYM XRMY rider Justin Crossman through Bali as of late. Look for their exploits to be covered in the new team rider profiles. Also CA’s DK killer Bob Kithcart is accumulating footage and finishing up school. Bob is psyching to make a trip down south this summer with the RXYM XRMY. Jeremy Wright has been cruising in Hawaii with 6X World Champ GT. Look for JW to have a career defining wave this year. Lisah Gonzalez is expecting her first child with her stoked Husband. We are amped for her. Lastly, throw out a prayer for Drew Erichson who was rushed to the hospital from an unknown illness. He is slowing recovering. When we talked to him on the phone he simply said, “I’ve never been close to dying ever in my life. This was a huge wake up call. It definitely set my priority’s in order. I really want to take a trip somewhere and surf perfect waves as soon as I get my strength back”. Heal up bro! SHOP RXYM for comfy American Denim/ Zip Hoodies/Soft Tees and The MXRY Collection for Radical Women only at rxymfashion. com. Stay connected with RXYM at twitter. com/RXYMFASHION & facebook.com/RXYM FASHION USA. Support the Youth, Respect the Past!

Get Radical.

Atlantic Bodyboards

ID BOARD COMPANY

Sandy Beach Pro July 9th-10th Sandy Beach, HI

www.idboards.com

ID Boards’ official website launched Monday, February 21 with an overflow of 50,000 hits over a just a few days. Many questions have risen about ID’s myster rider, which news will be released to the public come April 1. With the company’s NEW core technologies and Jarrod Gibson’s technical features, the level of board riding itself will change forever. More information on ranges and prototypes will be released in the next few months at ID’s website.

Stay tuned.

www.atlanticbodyboards.com

NY Bodyboards

www.nybodyboarding.com ___________________________________________ BODYBOARD TOUR SCHEDULES & INFO:

2011 BIA Tour Schedule www.biatour.com

Event #1 | March 5 Wave House, Mission Beach Event #2 | April 16 Seaside Reef Event #3 | May 7 Salt Creek, Dana Point Event #4 | June 11 Imperial Beach Event #5| August 6 Golden West, Huntington Beach BIA Championships | September 10-11 Huntington Beach

USBA 2011 TOUR SCHEDULE www.usbatour.com

Sport Chalet US Open Of BodyBoarding June 3rd-5th Huntington Beach, CA

Jenks Pro August 29th-September 6th Jenks, NJ

2011 FBA Tour Schedule www.fbatour.com

Event # 1 | March 26 Flagler Beach Pier, Flagler Beach

SURGEBUZZ Event # 2 | September 17-18 Canova Beach Park, Indian Harbor Beach Event # 3 | December 10 South Beack Park, Vero Beach

IBA 2011 WORLD TOUR SCHEDULE www.ibaworldtour.com

Pipeline Pro Banzai Pipeline, Oahu, USA February 12-13, 15-25 The Box, WA The Box, Margaret River, Australia April 14-20 Peruvian Inka Challenge Chilca, Peru May 11-15 Arica Chilean Challenge El Gringo, Arica, Chile May 20-29 Búzios Body- boarding Festival Geribá, Búzios, Brazil May 31-June 4 Zicatela Pro Zicatela Puerto Escondido, Mexico August 4-13 Sopelana BBK Sopelana, Spain August 18-21 Sintra Portugal Pro Sintra, Portugal August 22-28 Ferrol Pro Doñinos, Spain September 1-4 Campos Pro Campos Rio de Janeiro, Brazil September 7-11

Knighs Beach Pro Knights Beach, Australia September 22-25 Reunion Pro Les Archers, Saint Pierre October 10-20 Confital Pro El Confital, Grand Canária, Spain December 3-10 Fronton Showdown El Fronton, Grand Canária, Spain December 11-18

DAVE HUBBARD | PH: BRYAN PEZMAN | PEZPIX.COM