Japanese Food Carving by Cleo Sund

Elegant Garnishes for All Occasions

Hiroshi Nagashima Phot ography by

Ken j i M i u ra

CONTENTS

lntroJttction

PART

SIMPLE AC CENTS - - - Twists & Curls

Decorative Knots

Refreshing Accents Food Cups

Cucumber Carving Radish Garnishes

PART

KATSURA-MUKI - -

- - 41

A Traditional Japanese Pattern

PART

Ill

CUTOUTS ---Square Cuts

Pentagonal Cuts Free Cuts

- 53

Eggplant Fancy 76 Advanced Cuts PART

FRUITS

RECIPE NOTES & TOOLS Recipe No t es 98 Tools 108 Index 11 0

NTRODUCTION

n Japan, taste and visual appeal walk hand in hand to the table. Home cooks and professional chefs alike pay attention to presentation because they consider it a large part of the dining experience. Visual appeal heightens the eating experience, whether in a five-star restaurant or at home. A key element of this approach is mukimono-the decorative food garnish that delights the eye by adding a final flourish to a dish. Although the art of Japanese food decoration has yet to escape the confines of Japan's island culture, with this book I hope to change all of that. I hope to bring this new and exciting \Yay of treating t()od into your kitchen. Food art gives me imn1ense pleasure and it can do the same for you. It can change the way you look at your ~'daily bread.'' It can bring a new level of enjoyment and appreciation into your kitchen. You will delight in its playful elegance and visual appeal, and those you feed will be astonished by your creations. This book is all about bringing creativity into your food practices and making cooking fun again. If working with food is already an inspiring activity, the garnishes and decorations in these pages will lead you in new directions. They will allow you to add flourishes to your cooking repertoire in a manner you never considered. They will lend a whimsical 7

chJrm to ,路our f~>od in some instances,

,lll

understated elegance in

ot h-

ers. ~lore imporrantly, they \\'ill jumpstart your curiosity and send you

on- on new, unexplored tangents. The more than sixty garnishes range in scale fi路on1 simple-tnade in

sccoth.ls-to elaborate, with every imaginable level in bet\vccn. tvlany arc easily mastered. Others require practice ::md skill. You'll find potential uses t()r most of them. All of them will shine on special occasions. I kno\\~ I've tested then1 over and over again. If you are presenting your

meal on a single plate with two or three iten1s, choose a garnish appropriate in color, shape, and taste for the collective food display. I discuss how colors work on the plate and ho\v to combine them in various places throughout the book. If you are serving courses, select a garnish for each round-appetizer, soup or salad, main course, dessert. As far as tools go, most garnishes require only a sharp knife and possibly a fe,,路 everyday utensils. A handful require specialized implements. But this collection of edible garnishes represents only the beginning of your culinary journey. For over and above everything else, Tbe Decora-

tive ~4.rt of japanese Food Carving is an idea book. These pages O\rerflow with suggestions and inventive ideas you can use as springboards to e\'en more daring, more inventive decorations or food combinations. In each of these projects, along \Vith the Recipe Notes at the back, you'll find a place to flex your culinary muscles and challenge your cooking skills. For starters, I offer further suggestions for n1ost of the garnishes. Instead of a daikon radish, use a carrot. Instead of a lemon, use a lime or an orange or a pink grapefruit. Instead of the Japanese pun1pkin I chose because I wanted readers to become aware of its natural sweetness, use a local squash or a green pepper or something else _you notice close at hand. You, too, should think in terms of expanding the basic idea of each decoration by trying it on new f(>Ods around you. 8

Next, every garnish in this book can decorate dozens of dishes, not just the one selected. For cxan1plc, I chose to incorporate the Fluttering Plun1 Blosson1 on page 62 in a salad, but this delicate garnish could easily be sprinkled over a leafy green salad, arranged along the edge of a fish or steak dinner, set elegantly alongside a slice of cake or, perhaps, floated in a pitcher of lemonade or iced tea. The combinations are endless, subject only to the limits of your imagination. The art of Japanese food decoration extends back hundreds of years. The tradition is long and grand. But then, as no\v, it took a \villing hand and a fertile mind to \vork the knife and dress the table in a \\路av that captured the audience, \vhether they \vere six or sixty: In that respect, not much has changed. In another respect, everything has changed. The eager cook has so much more at his or her fingertips. An ever-gro,ving selection of vegetables from around the \vorld can be found at your grocers or at some of the specialty shops in to\vn. Carrots in hues from yello\v to red to purple are no\v a\'ailable. Japanese radishes and cucun1bers have traveled across the seas. Using peppers and zucchini and other vegetables of varying shapes and colors can be explored. And if you can't find \Vhat you \Vant at your greengrocer's, you can acquire seeds at your local nursery or online, and grc)\v it in your garden. For the adventurous cook, truly these are blessed tirnes. So take the ne\v techniques and ideas introduced here and run with then1! Transform the way. you think about food. Enhance vour kitchen skills. Play . . . with your n1cals-thcir presentation, the shapes of the f(>ods, and the colors on which the eyes can feast. In short, with new \'igor and inspiration, create, cat, and enjoy!

Hiroshi Nagashima

SI MPLE

•

Simple

WlSt

rls J'rondc a spl..tsh n( t' (llur tlwt .tppcal ~ . • 1 ~nJi,•cn~ thL· o\·erall.trr:tngcment, \\'htch tothcc~t ,lilt t . · ht·s the J'·tl.tt c. I len-, they g.tnush three in turn stlllllt • l. . . • • • J , 1 )t't inns nC ~:t~ himi shnmp, t un :t, :md · . . . , 1ndn·tull.l p< J , •• which h.n·c het·n st't 111 :1 v:tn:tt ton of the rcu ~n.tpptt' , , . · ( ' ! )t'\' f)lttcrn introdun·d on page 4H. I hts ~lorn tnt?, < • • • •, • ·~··tlt ttion will enhance .lll\ u>mhination of CCit,llltptt~l ' · ::" · ..... , L't.l'J1 tlw J10rtions in the D.ukon Cups n . .l · .

'1\,·t~! S :till C ll

.tpJ'l'llZtl~." 'Ill J thC~t'

:-on.t ll )r . u ,111 d eaten a~ i~.

CUJ1S· •'Ht'

C.l"ithr

lifted\\ tth the

Cut off Vs-inch (3-mm) slivers at a diagonal.

~nwind and adjust twist to make the fmal shape.

Sashim1 Platter

~ fmgt'rS ~

Soak the slivers in water for 1 or 2 minutes. The carrot will absorb the water and become more pliable.

Cut a 4-inch (1 0-cm) length of carrot in half lengthwise, then cut off a length with a peeler.

Wind a carrot sliver around a thin stick (a chopst1ck works well).

Cut a thin 2 1/2-inch (6-cm) stnp from a carrot with a peeler or knife Cut in half lengthw1se and trim ends. Soak in water for 1 to 2 minutes to soften.

One at a time, rol l the strips around a thin stick at a slight angle, shifting the carrot so the edges are not aligned with the previous layer of carrot as you roll.

Tube Curl The Tube Curl brings this dish to life with a simple, elegan t flourish, lending color and movement to what would have otherwise been a linear, bland-looking presentation. Try sprinkling T ube Curls over a favori te salad or meat dish. Depending on t he dish, consider using cucumber, a red or yellow carrot, or a firm vegetable of your choice.

3 j

r Asparagus and Potato Appetizer

The fin1shed shape.

Duck and Red Snapper on Daikon Steak

Japanese Knot Oncl' again a glazed carrot garnish decorates rich foods and tJntali1es the eye. This knot-shaped garnish was inspired by an ancient traditional way of sending notes or missives. Once written, the paper was folded in to a long rectangular shape, then knotted to form the distincti\T pentagonal lozenge at the center. This charming garnish adds a splash of color to any main course, and here enlivens the more subdued tones of this d ish. It can be made with any similarly textured vegetable, including turnip and daikon.

Th1s garnish can be made with a second layer of vegetable such as da1kon. If you choose to use a second vegetable, prepare as in step 1, trim to the same size, then beg1n knot as shown.

Push end through loop and ...

Cut a thm, 4 1/2-inch (11-cm) length from a carrot then cut mto 1h-mchwide (1.3-cm) strips. Soak in a strong saltwater solution (3 tbsp salt to 1 cup/ 240 ml water) for 1 to 2 m1nutes.

... pull and shape to finish. R1nse off the saltwater

Knotted Ribbon Here a thick, juK \ slice of daikon radt sh c rea tes an island, breaks up the solid red field , and ~tct s ~t s a pla t form to displa) .1 sampling of 'cgct.1hlc - including the edible Knotted Ribbon garnish. The d~ukon .wd c.1rrot add visu.1l appeal to\\ hat \\ould orhcrwisc havc been a fc.>rgettablc presentation. Notice, too, ho\\ t hc orange of the carrot nice!) bridges the red of the soup and the startlmg '' hitenes~ of the radish. Tr) this technique '' ith other \oups to confound the expectations of your

Cut a thi~, 6-inch length (15 em) of carrot, sltce off thm lfa-mch strands (2-3 mm), then soak in saltwater (3 tbsp salt to 1 cup/240 m l wat ) for 1 to 2 minutes. er

diners.

I Beet Soup 2

'-t

Bring one end around and over the other to make a loop, then push the strand through the loop.

Pull the strand from the middle to form the final loop as the knot t1ghtens.

The finished garn1sh. Be sure to rinse off the sa ltwater. Part of the charm of this decoration lies in 1ts uneven â&#x20AC;˘ ends.

I From the end of a lemon ...

Simple Square PerhJps the eJsiest of all the garnishes, the Simple Square can be fashioned from a fruit or vegetable of your choice. As such, it has endless possibilities. Use one or more squares made from the peel of a lemon, orange, or lime for a cup of tea, or as an accent alongside a piece of pie or a scoop of ice cream. On the next page larger squares made from cooked zucchini do double duty (as do many of the garnishes in this book), in this case as the meal's veggie and as a decorative bed for Spiny Lobster.

... shave off a section of the peel, leaving the pulp behind.

3 I

Cut into squares.

Covered Food Cup A t.mtalizing mouthful of game meat set on a \\t:dgt.: of frt:~h lim~:

m:lkes f<Jr ~~ ,路isually pleasing :md zest)' opent.:r to any meal or p.trty. 'Tn路 this set piece with lightl y grilled chicken or fish, or any seaf(>od

f:w:>ritc such as shrimp, scallop, or crab. Just a sprig of parsley or other lc:1t)r green brings this t(>Od cup to lite. (;roup togt.:ther on a pbtter ((>r a centerpiece dispbv. Try oranges and lemons and mix <ltH.l match, depending on the t(HH.l topping.

Trim the bottom of a lime so it will stand on 1ts own.

2 '

From the top, trim away sl1ghtly less than 1!4 of the lime

Roast Duck on a Half Lime

Make an incis1on 1/s inch (3 mm) from the top, leavmg 1f4 mch (6 mm) at the back end.

1 I

Follow steps 1 and 2 of the Covered Food Cup, then on the top side cut away the peel and pith as shown, following the lip of the lime three-quarters of the way around.

Lift flap to insert food.

Food Cup with Twist The curling twist of this garnish not on ly pro\路ides a dramatic flair for this seafood appetizer, but also adds a \'ivid third color to this tender senring of lightly seasoned calamari with salmon caviar (zkurtt). Again, any food that wou ld benefit from a splash of lime works wel l wit h t h is decoration,

Make a loop with the peel, then ...

including grilled chicken and most seafood.

Calamari Topped with Salmon Roe

... slip the end through loop to complete.

The finished garnish

Tulip Cup The deep reservoir of the Tulip Cup lends itself to endless food combinations, from appetizers to salads to a small, palate-cleansing scoop of sorbet. Choose something that blends visually with the lemon. Tulip Cups are also perfect for shrimp cocktails, avocado salad, or many other meal starters. Try making these cups with limes, oranges, or pink grapefruit, or a festive combination of two or three colors.

Insert three skewers just above the halfway point of the fruit to form a triangle.

Make a steep curving cut from one skewer to the next to form a lip of the tulip petal.

Make two more cuts to form the last 2 petals and complete the triangle.

Remove the peel and make a shallow cut on the underside of each petal to define the shape.

Set skewers in fruit as shown just above the halfway point.

Marinated Salmon w ith Olive and Onion

Pumpkin Jewel Box This edible g:trnish takes advant age of th<.: Japanese pumpkin':- n~ltural clq~ancc. The outer green .s kin has hcen reeled otr and the inside filled with ri sotto, ll1l popular Jt ~1 1un nee di sh, \\hH.: h is then topped'' rth <.olorfu l morsel s of shrimp ,md mushroom . '1 h<.: sam<.' idea ,, rb, of course, lor s tuffed green peppers ,mJ 0

arw small pumpkm or Sl)Uash \\ hosl' srze allows f(>r smglc sen rngs. '1 he Je\\ el Bo'\. ,1l so \\ orks

well w1th gratin, on ron soup, and othl'r hot foods.

Peel a Japanese pumpkin as thinly as possible.

This can also be done with a peeler.

Round off the edges of the scored lines.

R1sotto in Japanese Pumpkin

Peel carefully and evenly.

Clean up the remaining peel on the bottom and then score with an X. Remove the peel at the , top but do not score.

Cut off the top.

Score the bottom with 3 more Xs to complete.

Scoop out seeds and clean the inside.

Score the sides of the pumpkin along its natural indentat1ons.

The finished garn1sh .

( Salmon, Cheese, and Cucumber

Switchback Cut The petit, crisp J.lpanesc cucumber is idc.dl) ~uited for rrarnisht's ~llld appetizers, as it is ca'>\' to cut .md can be ;atcn ra"~ 1fcrc it is paired f(>r texture and color ,,ith 路alnwn and cheese, but the~" ttchback Cut could \\ork

equally ,,ell with small portwns of !'>,lrd me, sliced ham, slircrs of b~Kon seasoned with par-,lq, .md so on. ~ub颅 sritttte carrot or other crispy ,路eggic., for the cucumber.

Cut a 2-inch (S-cm) length from a cucumber.

Keeping the cucumber on the cutting board, roll it 180 degrees and make a second cut.

Cut at a diagonal to the cut made in step 2.

Pull apart.

Poke the knife through the middle 1 inch (2.5 em), leaving 1/2 inch (1.3 em) on each side.

The finished garnish. You can create different effects by varying the cuts in steps 3 and 4.

. . . . . and shape to

forM two minicups and iG8k in water for 2 or 3 minuiBs.

...

The finished garm.sh.

Dancing Crane . . 'lKUlllbcr is sliced and twi s ted to create an image of a

J,1 pane~t L

· . J tl pin<T it.s winus. The Dancmg Crane works well on any salad brr .tp :-> ::.-> • . • J,,

or a Iong~ 1Lh..

•

nnin course of meat, ftsh, or poultry. Here, when •

. ·I ,d . top a cht>rr\ tomato for a simple finger food, the bird

prt L 1<.: •1 • . , ·s· r· ken unage 1 •1

.·

Tomato with Orange Dressing

one step further.

In a 1-inch (2.5-cm) length of cucumber, make a series of fine cuts, leaving the last Va inch (3 mm) untouched. For even cutting, lay skewers or chopst1cks on each side of the cucumber to stop the blade.

Cucumber and

an incision through two-thirds 2 1ofMake the section. Soak in a weak saltwa-

Gent ly spread and shape to create the Dancing Crane.

ter solution (1 tbsp salt to 1 cup/ 240 m l water) for 1 minute, then rinse and wrap in a cloth to draw off the rest of the water.

Leaf Boat Canape Hne the decorative garnish is half of t he offering. With its ligh t

and relatively neutral tas t e, the Japanese cucumber p rovides a wonderful base for any food combination you could t hi nk of. ·whether . ' ' it involves seafood, meat, poultry, cheese, or e\·en , say, a vegetable pate. Try making this garnish with raw or parboi led carrot.

Cut a cucumber in half le~gthwise, then mto 2-lnch (S-cm) lengths. Ftnely score each piece stoppmg about 1..13 1nch' (3 rnm) from the bottom. Set skewers or chopsticks along the s1des of the cucumber to stop the blade, If necessa

in half lengthwise, 2 1Cut then soak in a weak saltwater solution for 1 or 2 mtnutes, then rinse and dry as in step 2 of the Dancing Crane.

Crab and Cucumber Canape Topped with Salmon Roe

Shape each side of the boat to make the narrow point of the bow.

Bring the two halves together and finish shaping.

Cucumber Rings an_d Vegetable Twigs \\' hen one

g~Jrn,..,h is cnconlp,l:,Sl'll in

the di sh

it self~ it opens

the d oor t o Cut a 1-inch (2.5-cm) length 0 f cumber and punch out th e center cu.h Wit a round cookie cutte r, punch or app Ie corer. Cut into 4 nng s. ,

a second !""'~lr:1rnish, in thi s c:1"c \ Tc!.!.CUihl c T wiu_:,. Th e C uc umber Rin gs add ,- . m<n'CI1H.:'nt

ute

~llld :1 ~~:co111..i

pby(ul tou c h :111d

(.J

"- '

hue to the crepes. The multicolored twigs contrib:1

r:1inbo\\ o( n:llur:tl c olors. For a colorful salad

or simil~1r dish, consider stringmg together

sm.dl chain of rings or

~nrinklin<r \'Cl•<•ic t \\'ilrs t t" ~n n <n·cr the ton. r

Make an 1nc1sion m 2 of the rings.

3 I

Link 2 rings to make a chain.

I D1nner Crepes with Japanese Eel

Cut a 1-inch (2.5-cm) length from the top of a cucumber, about V4 inch {5 mm) hi~h. Cut off a %-inch-wide (5-mm) stnp from the side.

Ma~<e

2 nc Slors as shown c tf

nea y to tne top as

show~ anust~~ 3.

Spread the side pieces and . ..

... tuck 1 sid e under to finish Vegetable Twig, then soak 1n water for 2 o r 3 m inutes.

Cork crew ......... dae praiah u incorporated into the .aL.-*-Me~~~~wimaoWD~

~~~~----re 1tuftiap with their ~--路 ddl pt'Dith caD be

cucumber while mew......... br-.d to make spiral. _ . rok 11

lllgawt.aaw ......

C ucu n ber Basket J Sardines in Two Sauces

'!'his ch n ming bas ke t s hape is inspired hy the traditio nc:ll b.unboo basket, a sight once comnwn throughout Japan. Here the cucumber boats carry sardines in two Jitlt.-rcnt sauces- tomato and orange. 'Vhcthcr using seafood, poultr), meat, or, s.1y, slivers of mushroom, the challenge for the cook is to fill the basket-; "ith complementary sauces that create a picturesque mosaic of color.

Start with a 3-inch (7 .S-cm) length of cucumber. Cut a 1!.3-inch-wide (8-mm) handle in the center of the cucumber. The blade should penetrate about one-third of the cucumber.

Carefully carve out the underside of the handle, hollowing out one side and then ...

Make incisions to mark out the intenor of the basket and then ...

Turn the cucumber cylinder on its side and trim away the top half of basket on both sides of the handle.

Trim the bottom so the basket will be stable.

... turning the basket around and

Decorate the handle, supporting the underside with a finger if necessary.

finishing the other. This is delicate work, so proceed cautiously.

. . . carefully scoop out to make a cavity.

I The finished basket. 35

Jewe ed Radish All three of the radish garnishes hLTC are simple to tllakc. Of the three, perhaps the Jeweled Radish is the most elegant. The et1cctive usl' of the startling contrast between the red skin .md the wh ite flesh is what gives the garnish its charm. The tl'chn ique is equally attractive with other \'egetables or fruits t hat offer such colorful contrasts. Note ho\v the green top has been pruned back but not discarded for an additional tlourish.

Trim the bottom of a radish, then with a fine-edged knife or cuttmg instrument make a V-shaped cut in the center of the radish to create one facet of the mirror ball.

Continue around the center of the radish until you have completed one row of cuts.

5 1

Make a second row at the top of the rad1sh.

Complete the cutting with a third row along the bottom.

Trim excess leaves from the top greenery to finish, or cut away completely if desired.

Rosebud The Rosebud is another ch:trrning radish (Tarnish that rew.u路ds the .11 tent ivc cook with ~ tT!'C<ll rc~ults fiH路 minim~tl ctfi)rt. It is simple t" to 111 :1kc, :md with scant pr:H:tice you 'II he :thlc to whip up a whole bouquet in no t imc t(n路

an eye-catching culintry dispL1~ lor a salad , : longsidc a main dish, or sprinkled among 1 路

l1c)\dful o( vcggics. ' '

Cut away a portion of the radish on all 4 sides as shown.

Cut a th1rd petal for all sides.

Make a cut behind the trimmed portion to form a petal of the Rosebud Leave room between each of the 4 sides for a second set of petals. Repeat with the remaining 3 sides.

Make two V-shaped cuts at the top of the Rosebud to form a cross.

Make cuts to form the first row of interior petals for all 4 sides.

Trim or remove the leafy greens at the base to finish.

KATSURA-MUKI A Traditional Japanese Pattern

Cut a 4- to 6-inch (1 0- to 15-cm) length from the widest part of a daikon rad1sh. Hold the rad1sh w1th your left hand and slide the edge of a sharp knife evenly into the daikon. While rotating the daikon, cut away the skm and tough outer portion. Discard and then slip the knife into the trimmed daikon ...

Cut slowly and steadily.

... and while rotating the daikon

with your left fingers and guiding it with your thumb, cut a thin, continuous sheet of daikon (about 1/16 inch/1 mm) by gently moving the knife up and down in a sawing motion. Move the b lade up and back in 1!2-inch (1-cm) Increments. The rotating should do most of the cutting. Work to find your own rhythm.

With pract1ce, you'll be able to cut a consistently thin, translucent sheet. Cut until the d1ameter of t he da1kon 1 sect1on 1s reduced to 1 inch (2.5 em).

The thumb of your left hand wi ll slide over the blade. Pull it back, rotate, and cont1nue to cut.

Carefully role up the daikon shee_t. Seal it in plastic wrap to prevent 1t 1 from drymg out.

NOTE: When thinly cut, a large daikon radish with a diameter of 4 inches {1 0 em) will yield a daikon sheet of 16 to 22 yards (15 to 20m)!

White Lily This garnish evokes an immediate sense of elegance when set in a tall flute glas<;, which also serves to maint.un the flower's shape. Consider other appet 11 crs or a ~m.1ll scoop of, say, crab salad. A well-chosen ' wc ll -wa~ h cd leaf completes the image.

The shape should look like th1s. Repeat and make as many flowers as you need.

Roll out a strip of daikon.

to form the Lily. The second layer should stop at the back of the flower. •••

Run the edge of a knife under the top point to pull out the lip of the flower and finish the shape.

Vegetable and Cheese St1cks

Roll up one side . ..

'-+

Cut flower from the strip.

The finished form.

Mo :1·ng Glory pu..,h, a It·\\ snips, .md

sprig n( grccnl"ry, these rolled' egct.1blc cups .Ire 1r.tnsf~ll·rncd into the verY im.t1!C of a J\1orning (,lor~. 1\ dd ,t pl.tl t el o r more del or.tt j,re .tl cc~sory .md ) ou lt,t\ l ' .1 s ltl ll \\'1th

ni n~· r.1hlc ~erring, or \\ith more llo\\CI's, ~

ch ~lrtll i ng

ccn tcrp iu:c. 1\ v:tri:ttion o( t h is garn is h :1ppt.trs o r1 ):wc 13 minu:; the (i n:d sn ips to dt·lin c:tt c tht pct.tl s

of (he tl o \\ c r.

From a tightly rolled daikon sheet (page 43) cut off a 1/2-inch-thick (1.3-cm) round.

I ···to make the Morning Glory base.

Push out gently at the center, being careful to spread the layers even ly . . .

Make four shallow cuts at the lip to complete a pent agonal flower.

Papaya and Salmon Roll, Asparagus and Prosc1utto Roll, Tuna Sash11ni and Japanese Long On1ons

Th · fmt hed flower

â&#x20AC;˘

Zu -chi ~oat with Pad le T he z ucchini Bo~t 1s .lllothcr c .unplc of nish t h.1t

fooJ g.tt-

i~ nuJc "ith little ctlort but Jclights \\ it,,h

Peel the zucch1ni.

it s seemin g C(lmplcxit y: A\.1\.I cn lort ul Hp.1~sc n gcrs, ~~s

Cut it into long stnps.

is done he re, a nd th e Bo~l! com e~ t o litl>. Thl" fim- .md cook's challenge-is in findin g an approp ri.He p~1ddlc t~ llÂˇ t lw t(Jnd nf his o r he r c hoice.

Sushi Balls with Sprig of Ginger

. . . trim the top and bottom.

Cross two outside strips . Repeat on the other end .

Cut the top and bottom into thirds as shown.

Stack and ...

7 I The finished Boat.

Zucchini Rolls Here the Zucchini Rolls provide an edible decorative base for tasty morsels of beef, but of course the idea lends itself to numerous possibilities. An ongoing theme in these pages is to combine a succulent morsel of food with something simple yet substantial such as zucchini. Use your imagination to provide

Cut to make sw1rling pattern.

Trim ends of the zucchini then cut into 1-inch-thick (2.5 em) discs.

additional toppings, or to supplant the zucchini with a new vegetable.

Prime R1b Cubes over Sauteed Zucchini

Saute or serve raw

CUTOUTS

Diamonds

•

111

rhe Rough

Peel a C<J rrot and tnm the ends

Cut off a 1-mch (2 S-cm) block

,,,_ ut \'l'l'l't.l bk Dt ,un o n d~, e.Kh Sl'.l~oncd in

1\\tlfllll f,

:""

. k ~ 1..,roth d c"'tll".ll l' t ht ~ . . uccu kn t pork dt "h. :t CI11( l. I1 ' .. I · ,. . J 1, r·ttl md edible, tlll''e geome t r ic garn i~ he~ ~nnpt•r' ·. ,. . .' lend rhem,cln·s tt) endless ' .lrt .t twn ~, "het her cooked , 1 'tmst"kr lHhcr ycget.1bk combin.ltions. Ibn.· or r•l\~- ' • a ('hiiJ "lw shuns hc.1lrhy tt)ods? C.1n·c up some carries, st>ason them in a child-friendly ro t .~•. .111 J ot hcr n•(Yl' t"t' • <

manner• .md you nuy turn

,·ege t.lblc hater into a

, eget.thlt> lon·r.

5 .. . trim to clean up the shape if necessary.

The basic cube shape.

Lay flat, then begin trimmtng stdes to make a cube.

Cut off a corner as shown .

Steamed Pork with Mustard Sauce

Cut the remaining 7 corners.

The fin shed D1amond.

Cut the fourth side to ftnish the cube and . . .

The corner should be cut to t he halfway point along all 3 edges.

Making a Pe ntago n Shape . ·igh t tT,tr nis hes usc: t he pen tagon .1'> a la unch mg paJ . \Vtth vet\' The next t ~'"' , . . . ·t ·ce you 11 be able to nuster t he b.l ') l C stc:p c; o u tlull'd herc: usc J"trlC . . . . , 1 prat I ' . . I '-to-m ake p.1per g utde bc:cau ...,c 1t tu r n s .m extremely dlfTicult the sunp c _ ,. • . tc)()lproof one. 1 C u ttm g a p e r fect p e nt agon tn:eh.md ts harder tJ:,k tnt<> .l , . 'ght think !) If \Oll don t h .w c t ime to m a kc: o n e of the tTarl

rhan vou

Ill

•

. . . thts sectiOn, con s tder ') lunng o ff s liCes from the pen tagon and ntsho Hl them on or .1round t h e food .

.1rrangtng

bring around one end to make a loop.

Your paper model should look like this.

Cut a sectJ us ng

on rom the food you are

Pass one end through the loop.

Trim both ends of paper to make pentago n.

First take a strip of paper and ...

Lt I

Pull tight until all of the paper passes through the loop and flatten. 1

I The fin1shed pentagon.

Fmished pentagon and paper guide. Place the p aper pentagon on top and trim the sid es to make a pentagon.

plum Blossom ~

-<Hnnlain ts if you St.'r vc t h is rich - t asting

. I'll have no L

•

'tot .. , i in this m ~mncr. T h e Plum Blossom s h ap(' J'151I Jccm.ttt:L L • tile nrcciou s n cs'> of the bra ndie d c a rrot s r

• • ~ore:;

, Sit' '(' tht.' blossoms t h'tnner, p.n ·l101·1 , .u1<..l

unuet:;L

.. t1CJ11:>l I

J,·cs, . •

spn·t1kk

•

.. . inscribe a small c1rcle in the center by pressing down or drawing a

circle.

l J ...

~nhd for Jn ent1re \ m·cr • '· · · . 1

I Carve out the triangles.

Carv

. e around the Circle to finish .

ttlerent eff ec t .

Your plum-blossom-in-progress should look like this.

Make the plum blossom shape on the facing page, then with any round tool at your disposal ...

With the fine point of a knife or pick, inscribe the five points. Each should point to the center of a petal.

Chinese

Bellflower ~

the ( hnwsc Bclltlo"cr c 1n 111g .. ..111

0 11Cl

jm.WI11·lt j, c "a\ :.->

prcst tlt ·111

•

<lld t:n orite .

baked

s,,cet potJto. SenT tt stacked (\\ t )

,wcrhcr

t ~ :.->

,1s

"ho\\ n, or in a

pyr.unid of three~ If you "ish to rake it one step turthcr, hollo" out rhe center" tth .1 ')tnall cookiecutter -,hape and fi ll with a topping oi your choice honey, mousse, jam, or fresh crushed berries.

Sweet Potato with Blueberry Mousse

Cut off a 5 e ct'IOn of potato.

3 Make a paper pentagon (page 59) then cut the potato into a pe ntag o, nal shape.

Then from th the inciSIOn ~ c~rner cut back to shape. Re ~ mak~ng half of the petal then tu rn P at vmh over d the other 5 s1'd es of each petal. an make other half '

Cut petals t o this shape.

As was done for the plum blossom on page 60, make an incision at 1 the halfway point, this time ..-t inch (3 mm) deep. 1

The finished Bellflower. Cook with care so as not to distort the shape.

Two-Ply Cherry Blossom shows toJ"~}'ll' l'. I Jere, boiled ~ hrimp a ltern:lt c..; s wit h , . . ~· . . · J 11 . k . I ·tltnon ·md tiT~ h ki wi ll >t· an eve-ope nlll g dt spl ay. I ht ~ ts sautceo sea op, ~ mo l l ~. ' • • " • ~ . • I · ··~ 111 [1 1'11 ·ttions St ·tck bi te-s ize pteces of your l:n •onte food s • onlvonco I countL !i ~U> • · ·· · . · ~· . _ . I II ' . s ·ll·ct t(HH..l t(>l· it s h uca~\\'l'll :t s l ( S t :l s tc. Ihcwhtt e ot the

~ut petals to this shape, mak-

blossom s :dim' . , l(>r

mg the notch in step 2 after al the petals have been formed

1 •

··I

• • •

U~t>dpropcr\\ I tnt :--g.Hnt ~ 1 1s.1

bet\\ l'L'11 t 1c..; .., ossom s

•l

" ide color p :d c t tc.

Make the pentagon shape on page 59, then make a l.tE-tnch-deep (3-mm) incision in the mtddle of a side. From the corn er cut to the bottom of the incision with a curving motion. Repeat on the 4 remaining sides. Turn th e carving over and repeat to finish p etals

2 I

Make a shallow notch in each petal.

This is the baste ch erry blossoi'T' shape. Make a thin cut across th e face of the blossom about lfa mch (3 mm) thick, but do not cut ali the way through. Make a second cut at the 1!4 inch (6 mm) mark to fmtsh the blossom and the second layer.

NOTE: Refer to the plum blossom shape on page 60 for the general cuttmg principles behind this garnish.

Carved Cherry Blossom Carve and cook the potato, st ack it attractively, and add a second food as is done here, or simply serve the potat o alongside the main course, whe ther meat, fish, poultry, or a vegetarian dish. Substi tute carro t , daikon, or any fibrous yeget able. :Master this garnish and it will add a charming touch to any meal.

Carve out the basic cherry blossom shape, then make a shallow incision and cut along the face of one pet al to a depth of 1Ja inch (3 mm) to the ~dge of the next petal, slowly bringang the blade back to the surface.

Continue with remai ning petals.

Cut off blossom and repeat. Cook to taste.

.;1;,

•

Carved Leaf Cluster \ s 311 opening .th·o to a dinner th.H "ill delight the palate and the , Ted J~eaf Cluster al. o find sen· icc .ts. garnish for salads C\ e, l .11 • " , -~ch hot dishc,') ,1s p.tghct t 1, or even :1 I c.tk -. nd - bake l-potat 0 cnm-

binati1111 pl.ttl'. \d I green .md yl'lln\\ squ.1sh or nth<.:r \egct.thlc .tn 1 t hl' lc.tf clus 11:'1' !llO I i ( poe l ica lly rcc.d b .lllllllll n '~ ch.ln ge or co Iors.

Cut a 1/2-inch-thick (1.3mm) disc from a peeled carrot, then cut the disc in half and carve out the basic leaf shape.

Make the zigzag edge on both sides of the leaf.

Lightly Vinegared Carrot

2 '

The rough-cut leaf.

Use a thin knife or utensil to make a line down the center from stem to tip.

Carve a basic leaf shape from a half-moon shape. Start with the incision for the stem, and from the top make a curved cut to meet the bottom of the incision.

5 1

Make shallow InCISions along the top, following the zigzag cuts at the side.

Make 2 notches on the other side to finish the leaf shape, rounding out the straight edge in between if desired.

The finished leaf. Cook to taste.

1 I

Cut off a d1sc of daikon and carrot, peel, and then cut in half.

Cut both sides to form an oblong petal shape as shown.

Toast and Vegetable Hors D'oeuvre

Five-Petalled Cherry Blossom Surprisingly easily to make, this cherry blossom pattern \\'Orks well for single p lace settings, or as a group serving on a large platter. Each flower was cut from one piece of thickly sliced bread. For a six-petalled design, make slimmer petals.

Cut a paper-thin slice about 1/ 16 inch (1 - 2 mm) thick.

Notch the top of the petal.

Run along the edge of a knife to curl, pressing lightly with your thumb. Soak in water. While the vegetables are soaking, cut the bread into larger petals, following the shape in step 4.

Your petal should look like this.

A finished petal.

Sliced Leaf Cluster 'rhL· Iight , ,til') fl_·c Jill g of thi s g:trni sh \\'OIHI<·rr11JJ y ' lll'' lli S Jioht l~uHJ S SUCh :ts l hi :-; g<·l:tt ill d<' SSl'J't colllpt, . ~'"' . .. . I '!'he Lc.tf <;111s t cr's fc:tt hcr y l'lcg:tiH c h:ts lll : lll y :tppl i<·:ttinn :.. It m:tkcs :tL·hi c yt.:t t:ts te (ul .tddit ion to lll':trl y ~ 111 y m.tin co 11 rsc, tin· one. Try using c:trr<>l, turnip, or other \("PC I I"'

f fir !I thn Sid AS

dMJ

Your basic shape should look like this.

This 1s the final leaf shape.

Repeat several more times.

thP

bo ttc Jrn of Cl ginger stalk (Or the VCUCtcJbiP Of yO\Ir

choice), rnak1ng sure you leave e no ugh at the bottorn for the le<lf stem .

,thJcs.

I Notch a z1gzag on both 1

sides of the leaf as 1s done on page 69.

Sl1ce thtnly down to the bottom of the leaf Without cutting into the stem.

Spread and press to make final shape.

zesty Gmger Ale Jelly

Flatten to block out rough leaf shape

Cookie- Cutter Pattern: Cherry Blossom Cookie cutter~ can \\ork nwgi c 111 .t f(.·,, seconds. Look fi>J· mo re ad u lt theme~, like the CherT\" Blo ~om in the d.tikon di sh here or th e StwwfL kc • p.lttrrn in ~tep 2. 0:o m:tttcr wh.tt cookie-cutter p.tt tern you c hoose, th e key i~ to find an attr.tctivc .sh:tpl·. For nl\\ \'l'get:thlc.s carrot, zucchini, and ~uch nwh sure )rou choose a strong c utter with :1 ~h : trJ) edge. <>ualit y . kitchrn cut t crs, or the Jap.mcsc cookie cut t cr.s shown here and in the Tool .section .H the h.tck nf the book, can cut through thicker slabs o( vegetable. For thinner cookie cutters, consider p.trhoiling and ~e~lsoning your f(Jod

bct(,re cutting. For an additional flourish, top your t(>od with small garnishc~, such as the ''ariation of the Carved Leaf Cluster (page 69) or the C~trved Cherry Blossom ( page 64) .

Parboiled Daikon with Tomato Sauce

When using a cutter for a sheet of food, as in the cheese tofu here, make your cuts as dose to the edge

and the previous cut as possible.

I , tl I,

cllffcn

Maple Leaf A festive cornucopia of glazed maple leaves, fruit, and assorted clelicacies laces the whipped cream accompaniment for this pen tea-flavored dessert. As with every other item in this section, this garnish goes well on salads, vegetable clilhes, and other hard foods. Consider a similar setup for J8Ul' favorite cake or pie. The carrot leaves are glazed to give diaD a subtle sweetness appropriate for dessert Make the pentagon shape the Recipe Notes for page 73) . 1 on page 59, then clip off t he bottom corners.

Ll. """'T

. 0 o b ottom cuts fo II ow1ng the pattern. Note that incisions will not go as deep.

I The finished shape.

Carve the top of the leaf first. The deepest top cut between po1nts should be about , 6 1nch (4-5 mm).

tf desired, add more detail to the leaf.

Holly Leaf This pnpubr hcnch de~sert come~ to life with t hi:-holly-sh~tpcd garnish, the powdered sug~tr comp leting the festive hnlid.t\ theme. The llolh I .c:t( could garnish atw . f~1ll or \\ 111 tn !l.路stt\ 1t .Y, fi路om Than bgivmg t lnough the

JlC\\

ye.H. (; l.ve

desserts.

Cut a small, 1/4-inch-t hick (6-mm) piece from a zucchini. W ith a food carving tool or a hollow t ube, begin mak1ng U-shaped cuts.

Y I Cut in half.

t(H路

Mont Blanc

I Make cuts along the other side.

Spread to finish.

Tnm to make the stem of the Holly Leaf.

Butterfly ==============~======

'I ht'l charm innh but terfh r><rarnish enthrall ~ children .t nd adult'i .1ltke 111 much the s.1mc \\ ,1\' as an enchanting animated fe.lttllT (tim . Combuwd '' tt h c:tke, pudding, or jell o, or "et on :1 dmner plate of nw.tl :tnd pol.ttoe.,, th i~ dccor.ltiOn \\ tl leltctt delight from one ,liH.I .til. l â&#x20AC;˘or desserts,

is gl.vcd.

Cu t a round slab from a peeled carrot, then halve.

Cut the bottom off at an uneven angle, then cut the stdes.

Your carrot should look like this.

Make an inciston to form the antenna.

... cut to the center point from both sides.

Carve the back side of the wing.

Make an angled incision on the bottom.

Cut one wing by making an inctsion close to, but not all the way to, the bottom. Make a second incision to form a second wing. Cut all the way through to separate the butterfly from the pack. Repeat.

Spread the wings and gently push the front inward slightly until it overlaps. This will keep the wings open.

I 84

Japanese Pumpkin Pudding

The butterfly shape to be carved

Cut the top of the wings, ustng the sketch as a gutde. Make the center tnctston first, then ...

Your butterfly-in-progress should look like this.

Roll Cake

Gingko Leaf The lu,-,cious, fanciful curves of the Gingko Leaf garnish allow~ tor many applications. Here, it appears atop a de ert otfering, the only spla~h of brightnes among two shades of white. Perfect for carrot cake (natural1y!) and a roster of other sweets. For dessert u e, the Gingko Leaf garnish was glazed with sugar and Cointreau (see the Recipe 1 'otes for page 73). To decorate a 1 Cut a l -tnch-th1ok (2.5-an) round from a peeled cardish for a formal 1unch or rot and make two curved dinner, con ider sprincuts with a food carving

Make a stra1ght cut to the edge of the carrot to form the leaf stem.

Tnm the stem to make 1t thmner.

Make a shallow cut in the center of the carrot about 1/4 inch (4 mm) deep.

ch1sel (or small spoon or kmfe) to start the curves at the base of the leaf. Make the second one higher than the first.

kling on a combination of gingko and maple leave .

At th s po nt the garn1sh shou d oo I e th1s

Cut off thtn leaves until f1mshed, or make two-p y leaves by cutt ng to the top of the stem th ma e a second C'ut a way th-:oug

FRUITS

Swan Basket The elegant yet simple fotm of a "" .111 floating on the " .1tcr \\ d I dcltgh t d 111crs o l ' all age<>. Stacked ms1ck 1'> s lt n :d kt\\ 1 fi路lll t, hut other ~..l t ccd ln11ts, .dternatmg or .t lonc,

\\ork equ.1ll) \\ell \\1th th 1s \l't'iatdc g :trlllsh. Or tt \ a lund fu l of "hole

q 1 ,l\\

bt:t 1 ie'> .ltld

chcntl''>. h>r :1 ch tld\ p.u t), mdi' idua l s\\ .m cornucopi.l'> (ilk d cookie'>, choco Lltc'>, or

c.mdtc-. cou ld de\ ate \ O ll to hero _.\ t t he ' en leas t, yo u \\ill

or th e day.

Stacked Kiwi Fruit

have a en '\\ o( n ' n ' <>.l tt s-

ficd par t ) goer~ . For color \r~11"i Jt to n, t r) J ptnk. gr.lpefrmt or large orange.

Make a cut on each side to the other two skewers, each of wh1ch ma rks t he high point of t he w ings.

Complete the circle by cutting the ztgzag feathers for the second wing .

St1ck 3 skewers 1nto the f ruit as shown, forming a triangle around the upper t h1rd of the fru1t.

The b ack of the fruit will be carved 1n this pattern.

Lift the top half off. Scoop out the fruit to use here or later.

Begin cuttmg JUSt under a skewer. Where the line passes under the skewer will be the crown of the b1rd's head.

Cut the zigzag pattern for the feathers at the back of one wing, then dip down to make the low U-shaped cut.

Make notches in the wing that expose the white pulp underneath.

Remove the skewer and carve out the head, d1ps, and upper edge of the wings.

Make the zigzag cuts for the tail feathers.

The fmished Swan The shape of your btrd mill vary depending on tM circumference of the fruit.

Serrated Cup Pinched for time hut need ~m .lddt ttotul fl ourish at the dinner tabid Tht~ serr.ncd ti-ull t ~ la~t ~111d to make. Add n ~n orcd jell),

.lS

here, or

scoop o(

t \ 1'>)

Ill'

cream \\ ith nut s .md \\h tppcd cre.tm, or lor s tmpk elegance, a mt\11-ending scoop

\\ith a splash cream is

or so rbet . Fres h p.tpaya

Insert skewers in the center of both ends as vtsual remmders to stay tn the center as you cut. Make a ztgza , cut around one side. 9

or lemon and strawberries .md \\hipped

crowd- ple:1scr any Jay of the "eck. .

Continue to cut in a zigzag pattern al l the way around the fruit.

3 I

Pull the halves apart.

Scrape out the seeds and rinse the

'-+ I fruit.

Papaya and Cru shed Gelatin

5 92

I The finished garnish.

fruit Basket ---

Edible garnishes i:-. one of the thenH.路.., of thi~ hook .llld it is cdwul here" Jt h this carved p 1pa\ .1 b.1slct. Select bctrics and ot ht:r hun not onh (()r taste but for co lor. 1\Llkc usc o( the.: freshest sca..,onal ti路uit. dab of "h1ppcd cn:.tm 1" optwnal. ( ' hoo~e t,1IJ ldc-hoJH:d ,. ~ern:'' tth .1 sm~d l dessert fi>rk. 1 \

pJpa:路路 ,

Trim the top of the fruit.

On the other stde of the fruit, insert another skewer where the bottom corner of the same side of the handle will be.

it'. remove the wedge.

you want to serve the frhUit peeled, as shown in t e f tntshed . Fruit Basket th en peel at thts stage.

Find the midway point between the top and bottom and stick in a skewer. This will mark a bottom corner of the handle.

Make a cut at the center of the fruit to the skewers.

Before cutttng the other side, carve the understde of the handle for a ntcer shape if desired.

Skewers should be placed to mark out the bottom corners of the handle, first two on the left side, then on the right.

Turn the fruit over and reposition the skewers to mark the other two bottom corners of the handle, then repeat step 4.

Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other side, then remove all the seeds. If the fruit has a thick wall, you may want to notch the handle If you do so, support the handle as you cut and proceed carefully so as not to break the handle or cut yourself.

Papaya Dessert Basket w1th Berries

6 I1

Make a vertical cut to carve out one stde of the handle and . ..

I The finished garnish.

Carved Bird Basket If you 're looking to fl ex your crea ti ve muscles, this bas ke t \\ Jt h 1ts layered" ings is the wa) to go. A single bird c an ser ve double Jut) as J. centerpiece 111 an in t imate te te-~1- te te for t \\o, \\ bile a flock wdl le,n路e diners \\ide-eyed "i th ,lma/emcn t . A pee led melon and large app le are ..,hown here. Fill" nh fruit ball s or <;tack bite-s i7e picce'i attrac tin~ J .y. Con..,ider green ,1pples. ~

Peel the frUit, cut rn half, and remove the seeds. Keep rn mrnd the finrshed b rrd wrll have 4 pieces: the body, the head, and the wings.

Cut the layers of the wrng by first cuttrng a large V-sha ped wedge and . . .

The head and shoulders of the brrd will be carved fro m th1s p1e ce .

Cut a genero us portro n off t he bottom of one ha lf. The head wrl l be ca rved from the botto m p ie ce , the wings from the to p .

. . . sliding it off. Set asrde the large notched piece.

Carve the head and shoulders.

Cut the top portion in two and then . .. 1

Repeat steps 5 and 6 to cut a second wedge, followed by a thrrd, and so on. Cut as many wedges as you can . Reassemble the pieces, then repeat the process to make a second wing .

The finished head-andshoulder combination.

... trim the corners of each prece to make a pornt at each end.

8 1Take the bottom portion cut in step 2 and trim nicely.

Trim to thin the head.

From the rema1n1ng half of the fru1t, carve out a wedge to make a second pa1r of w1ngs.

Cut a V-shaped notch for the head and shoulders.

Insert the head-andshoulder portion into V-shaped notch .

Cut out the wedge at the angle shown, nearer and pointing to the front of the bird.

Cut a smaller wedge and . ..

Insert the notched wings back into the body and arrange, then add the second pair of wings on top.

The finished Bird Basket.

Melon Bird Basket

cant nue to cut v smal er wedges Repe on the othe s de

RECIPE NOTES & TOOLS

NOTE: The recipes for Japanese Wine Sauce can be found in the entry for page 14, for Glace on page 73.

PART I

tions on this appetizer would include substituting lightly boiled turnip or daikon for the potato, each lightly seasoned to taste with salt, pepper, and soy sauce. Season the carrot as d esired, or glaze.

SIMPLE ACCENTS

TW I STS & CURLS

• Sash imi Platter

PAGE

lEI

For a sashimi combination , set out soy sauce and wasabi horseradish, or mix the two up ahead of time and

D E CO R ATIV E KNOTS

sprinkle over the hors d'oeuvres just before serving. Choose your sashimi by season and only select the fresh-

• Duck and Red Snapper on Daikon Steak

snapper and succulent boiled daikon

it. Consider mixing the fish in season with sea urchin

is a mouthwatering treat and a hard

(uni) or salmon roe (ikura). For a cocktail party or a for-

combination to beat. The whole is

mal dinner try bite-size cubes of duck, smoked salmon,

seasoned with a Japanese Wine

and tender steak, all individually seasoned. Sauteed

Sauce made from the pan juices

duck with onion and parsley in a carrot dressing is a

(see Recipe Notes for page 14).

crowd-pleaser. page

1i1

Roasted duck over lightly grilled

est seafood. When in doubt, avoid

• Abalone Steak with Foie Gras

page

Ill

The abalone steak was grilled lightly

Stack the three foods, garnish, and spoon on the sauce. Vary the fish or the poultry to fit the season or your own cooking repertoire. For more on daikon, see the Recipe Notes for page 75.

in oil and seasoned with salt and pepper to taste. It rests on a bed of asparagus and potato and is served in a Japanese Wine Sauce made

The boiled daikon was chosen for its the tart, distinctive flavor of the beet. The soup here is served hot, but this decorative technique can be

wine, 1 part sake, and 1 part soy sauce. Mix the wine and sake in a fresh saucepan, burn off the alcohol over a low heat, then add the soy sauce, juices, salt, and pepper (or sugar) to tast e. See the Recipe Notes for page 73 for a Glace recipe. page

mild flavor, a nice counterpoint to

with pan juices and 1 part white

• Asparagus and Potato Appetizer

page

• Beet Soup

used with hot or cold soup alike. Simply vary the colors of the vegetables and garnish to create an appealing effect.

lEI

The appetizer in this boat-shaped serving vessel relies

• Potage with Minced Shrimp and Egg

page

on two crisp, parboiled vegetables. While the garnish

A good potage is filling, subtle, and easy to make. Next to the sprig of submerged b roccoli is an island

supplies the visual spice, the dab of mustard and jelly from the aloe vera plant serve as condiments. Varia-

of minced shrimp briskly cooked in a fry pan with egg

yolk, mayonnaise, and salt and pepper to taste. Simple, heartwa rmi ng, and p leasing on a d eeper leve l, the way hearty f ood sho uld be.

ing your favorite recipe and add the expected slices of onion, then oltves, which add a darker hue and a richer flavor to the mix. The slices of olive also echo the roundness of the onion and the lemon, b ringing the dish together visually.

REFRE~ING ACCENTS

• Spiny Lobster

• Ri sotto in Japanese Pu mpkin pages

The Japanese pumpkin (kabocha) is another long-neglected Japanese food that is slowly finding its way in the world. It is a tasty and versatile vegetable good for soups and vegetabl e dishes, or as a st and-alone

fB-Eil

Boil a lobster whol e in a large pot and serve seasoned with a dab of mayonnaise or melted butter. Don't be afraid to turn the lobster itself into a decorative part of the dish,

page

as is done here by opening up the

side d ish. Wedges are b aked or simmered in a stock such as Japanese dash i for about 25

head and tail.

minutes until soft and then seasoned in a saucepan with a sauce of 114 cup (60 ml) soy sauce, 1 112 tbsp of sugar, and 2 tbsp of mirin (Japanese cooking sake, o r

FOOD CUPS

increase the sugar) for 20 ounces (600 g) of pumpkin.

• Roast Duck on a Half Lime

page

Ea-0

The kabocha's natural sweetness is highly valued among Japanese cooks.

A zesty lime works nicely with roasted duck. While a lemon might be too astringent, an orange echoes the classic orange sauce combination

CUCUMBER CARVING

and, of course, leads to a brighter display. The secret here is to allow

• Salmon, Cheese, and Cucumber

the duck- or whatever food you

page

t!J

choose to present-to draw up the citrus juices

The Japanese cucumber has begun

through capillary action.

to appear on American supermarket shelves, and seeds are now an

• Calamari Topped with Salmon Roe page

Ea-8

option for vegetable gardens in some areas. Crunchy, light, and edi-

With the popularity of sushi, salmon

ble raw, Japanese cucumbersalong with carrots, red radishes, and

caviar has come to the fore in American cuisine. Here, its distinctive tartness, along with its soft liquid center, provides flavorful and textural coun-

food art. They do not require marinating or salting before use.

terpoints to the more mellow cala. mari- an appealing combination an tnventive cook can take in many directions. The sashimi-

• Toast with Jam

~: ~~ .. ' ~ .. _

page

There are dozens of recipes for Marinated Salmon, each as good as the next. Marinate the fish follow-

page

El!l-0

This creative presentation for toast raises the normally pedestrian-look-

fresh calamari is cooked lightly, the soft center left near its raw state and then seasoned with salt and pepper.

• Marinated Salmon with Olive and Onion

daikon radishes-are perfect material for decorative

ing food a level and is sure to draw the diner's eye. Since the finely sliced cucumber is light and crisp, the toast can be eaten as is, or the Mini Cups can be pulled out and t he

condiment of choice can be spread over the toast.

• Tuna Sa lad, Cucumber, and Egg

Em-

page

Tuna Salad is a we lcome favorite at many tables. W hether made from fresh fish or canned, how you spice it up determines t he appeC11 of the fina l d ish. Consider fluffing it up with boi led o r lightly scrn mb led egg, diced and seasoned with salt nnd pepper t o tast e. Depend1ng o n yo ur likes o r di slikes, add diced on ion and o live Seasoning w1th min ced garlic, olive oil , and w1ne vmegar can g1ve n0w life to this standard d ish.

• Cucumber and Tomato w1th Orange Dressing

Ell-0

page

Th1s cucum ber-and-tom at o ap petizer is seasoned w ith a cube of orange dressing that has b een set in unflavored gelat in. This culinary tri ck allows the cube t o fulfill three funct ions: it adds co lor, provides flavor, hors d 'oeuvre w ith othe r "cubed " dressings. Slice off

page

EE]

In JC1pa~, fish makes up a vital part o.f the dte.t. Our finned friends proVIde us wtth succulent dinner table dtshes in many forms-grilled, steamed, sauteed, doused in a flavorful sauce, and of course raw, in t he form of sashim1. The array off h "I bl . IS ava1 a e 1n Japan o utshines that of many oth er countries, but even so finding a purveyor of fresh seafood in the neighborhood will be a b oon for the adventurous cook. So consider seeking one o ut if you haven't already d one so, and use their offerings liberally to enliven your table and expand your cooking repertoire.

• Cucumber Co rkscrews with Crab and Cheese

page

b e rs close at hand, this idea will work with salami, ham, grilled

the tops of t he cherry t o matoes t o create a base on

chicke n sl ices, o r parboiled vegeta-

which the cra ne can perch .

ble sticks. Choose an appropriate

• Cra b and Cucumber Canape Topped with Salmo n Roe page

dipping sauce. Simple and fun to

ED-G

The crisp, light taste and texture of the Japanese cucumber make the of tender morsels of meat, poultry, or seafood. For simplicity of preparation, try slices of cheese with a

• Sardines in Two Sauces

page

provide a receptacle in which to lay your dressing or sauce, they lend a neutral, crunchy textu re over which you can lay your ow n favorite appe-

dollop of dressing, or toss on some baby shrimp or diced barbecued chicken for a twominute f ix. Fo r something more elegant, consider thin slices of lightly grilled marinated lamb or thinly sliced scallop sashimi seasoned in a light wasabi sauce. page

serve and eat.

Not only do these cucumber baskets

perfect counterpoint for any number

For a simple yet exotic dinner, stuff crepes with grilled Japanese eel (unag1), a delicacy that is gaining popularity outside Japan . The tender, freshwater fish can be found in specialty stores in vacuum packs, filleted and pre-cooked with the appropriate seasonings. Bring a rare but exceedingly tasty treat to your table. One additional tip: choose 100

• Gri ll ed Sea Bream

With a source of Japanese cucum-

and secu re s the cucumber. Try this

• Dinner Crepes with Japanese Eel

eel from Japc=m over those from China . Th e t en d erness and tast~ of the original surpasses the contender. Beware tmposters labeled Made in Japan.

tizers o r f inger fo ods, whether they be slivers of spicy chicken, marinated skirt steak, or seasoned vegetables. Be inventive.

pt:illl

KATSU RA - MUKI

• Hors D'oeuvre Platter

pages

m-m

While th is table garnish is obv1ously amenab le to countless va riations of appet izers, the hors d' oeuvres here, from left to right, are 1. Asparagus and Prosciutto, 2 . Cheese and Papaya Wrapped in Salmon, 3. Parboi led Lotus m Sw eet Vinega r, 4. Sauteed Sca llops wit h Egg, 5. Shrimp and Cav1ar, 6. Melon (un).

• Vegetable and Cheese Sti cks

page

Celery and carrot sticks have been mixed with strips of cheese in this

another favorite for its tender yet crunchy texture can be ~overed in any number of wrappings, whethe; meat or f ish. Use your imagination and be creative. Think outside the box a Ia Papaya and Salmon Roll a combination distilled from more complex recipes. ,

• Sushi Ba lls with Sprig of Ginger

page

EI:J-0

Follow any sush1 recipe and season rice for sushi, then roll rice into small, bite-size balls. Cut fish so it drapes nicely over the rice, place on t op and shape gently to finish. Here shri mp and sayori (needlefish or halfbeak) are used, but any flexible sushi t o pping wi ll work. O r try other round foodshrimp balls, meatb alls, or any appetizer that lends itself easily to a circular shape.

offering, the whole chilled on ice

• Prime Rib Cubes over Sauteed Zucchini

placed in the bottom of the flute glass. A perfect spring or summer treat. Consider salami or ham sticks

page

mil-e

The prime rib is t opped with a ball of horseradish and sho uld be served

with cheese. Or you might block off the bottom half of the lily cone, or set it in a slightly

with steak sauce or a dressing of

wider vessel and add a scoop of salad, either potato,

your choice. Sea son with sa lt and

tu na, or crab.

pepper to taste . In the meat department, cubes of chateaubriand or

• Sashimi Select

page

another piece of tenderloin will work

Sashimi gathered fresh from the sea

equally well. For seafood, consider sauteed scallops

and brought still fresh to the dinner

or fried oysters. When dealing with seafood, for best

table is not something that should

results choose fresh specimens in season .

be taken for granted, even among the most experienced eaters. This copious Wisteria garnish does jus-

• Salmon Mousse and Sole Wrapped in Zucchini

tice to the food and vice versa . Choose other, equally deserving offerings from your

So many of the decorative garnishes in these pages lend themselves to simple appetizers or finger food that can be whipped up in seconds but are-the time factor not withstanding-a delight to the palate. Sashimi, always a favorite in Japan, le~ds itself to numerous combinations, whether paired With . on1on, avocado, or a wasabi sauce. Asparagus,

Sole is used here, but any tender whitefish , lightly grilled or steamed, can be served. Lightly sauteed, the tender flesh of the sole melds perfectly with parboiled zucchini. Both are soft and succulent. The Salmon Mousse, delicate and airy, also com-

cooking repertoire to serve in this fashion and your diners-whether guests or family-are sure to be impressed.

• Papaya and Salmon Roll, Asparagus and Prosciutto Roll, Tuna Sashimi and Japanese Long Onions pages m!l-m

page

plements its zucchini covering to perfection . Give new life to some of your own standard dishes by wrapping them in Zucchini Fish Nets, then stand aside and watch the delight of family and friends when they see your makeover.

101

CUTOUTS SQUARE CUTS

Steamed Pork with Mustard Sauce

peg• •

The steamed pork dish here is served in a mustard sauce made with pan JUICII. Pick a light, spicy French multllfd, ,.m.pa a Dijon. The other t1tck with 1his dJih II not to just boil t.. . . . . . . . . 1ft pllln to

--but

illt:J-· tlmpiiMIM*IJ

i?AI. . .

is a good vegetllble to cooking repertotna wn._ refrigerated, it keeps well well tn salad or c:oolc8d, seasoned tn a chicken egg yolk IS spiced wil:h sansho pepper, a mild Consider salt, pepper, and chopped a.. .~.. j teed minced onion.

Brandied Carrot Blossoms

• Potato and Shrin1p

Gm-0

page

There are many ways to cook shrimp. Here, it is boiled in water with a splash of sake ( 1 part to 10 parts water) and a pinch of sugar. If you are fortunate to find fresh shrimp, choose the freshest catch for the best results. Shell and o dark vein, and cook just enough to bring remove tl1~;; . • . tural tenderness. Avo1d overcookmg.

FREE CUTS

• Lightly Vinegared Carrot

page tm]

The carrots are parboiled to make them tender but still crisp, then seasoned with a light vinegar for a zestier flavor.

out 1ts na

• Shrimp and Bell Peppers

page

riJ-0

Choose fresh shrimp and bake (as is done here), boil, or saute lightly to bring out its natural succulence, then layer in other flavors to complement the taste of the shrimp. Two mellow foods are inserted here,

• Toast and Vegetable Hors D'oeuvre

page

il:l

The petals are shaped before the bread is toasted, then the carrot and daikon are laid on top, facing inward. The original inspiration for this dish was Garlic Toast, an equally tasty idea for this pattern.

with a tart, juicy finish provided by the green kiwi. Try your own favorite inserts. Consider, for example, three shades of bell pepper-yellow, red,

• Zesty Ginger Ale Jelly

or green-to echo this visua l arrangement, or slices of

page

Flavored gelatins should be a part

other vegetables, including avocado.

• Japanese Pumpkin Pudding

page

of your cooking repertoire, as they are easily made, high in protein, and adaptable to many flavors that will

I!!

The recipe for pumpkin pudding

complement your meal of the day.

appears in the Recipe Notes for

A simple rule of thumb of 20 to 1 should guide your efforts. That is,

page 84. To make the moon, bake it firmer, and in a large, shallow bak-

20 parts water, sugar to taste, and flavoring agent ~in this case 3 oz/90 cc of ginger juice) to 1 part gelat1n.

ing dish instead of individual cups.

Bring water and other ingredients to a boil.' th~n add

Punch out circles then carve the

gelatin powder to the mix, following the ~~r~ct1on~ on

the pudding slightly longer to make

moon shape. An another method would be to fill welloiled individual cups to about 1 inch (2.5 em), bake, gently knock out the finished pudding on a cutting board, then shape. Glaze the zucchini.

• Steak and Carrot

page

til

the package. The one caveat is tha.t :ertam Ingredients-including raw ginger juice, kiWI, papaya, and pineapple-need to be heated in orde_r to disarm the natural enzyme that prevents the gelatm fran: harden. As with many of the garnishes here, particularly mg. · · 1· hI those made of carrot, the ginger garnish IS lg t y

Most likely you noticed the "unusual" presentation of the steak

glazed, or glace.

here. Not only is it trimmed to a

• Smoked Fish and Potato

neat rectangle, but it is cut into bite-size pieces. This is an old Japanese tradition born out of necessity because of the use of chopsticks. Most Japanese food, as a visit to a Japanese restaurant will confirm, is cut into small pieces that may be brought directly to the mouth without the diner havtng to cut up the food first. Consider this Japanesestyle presentation for a particularly tender or high-grade steak. Use a large, well-sharpened knife.

page

Smoked foods used to fall into the

domain of the professional, so people were forced to buy smoked. meats and fish. Now a wide vanety of smoking options are available to the home cook. While smoking beef and pork have been thorou~hly cov.lng shows and in print, fish remains the ered on co Ok d. neglected cousin, yet it can be the most rewar mg-

103

and the healthiest. The fish here is slowly sauteed w1th a splash of soy sauce, sake, and mirin cooking sake and then smoked. Season fish in this manner or follow your own preferences and then smoke. Smoked fish offers rich, clean tastes, without any fishiness or the

overcook. Check regularly with a skewer. Use a light vegetable oil and drain well.

fatty t aste of meat.

• Hamburger St ea k with Carrot Chrysa nthe mum

• Stuffed Eggplant

Glace recipes for g la:mg arc p lentifu l The sweetc nmg agent could be honey, sugar, molasses, o t brown sugar and the flavo ring can rang e far and wide. If you p lan t o use garnishes regu larly, it would be a good idea to keep a glace stock readymade in your refrigerator. The recipe here ca lls for 1 tsp Cointreau (substit ut e b ra ndy), lemon t o t ast e, 10 oz (300 g) sugar combi ned with 2 quarts (1 .8 liters) of water. However you decid e t o cook the Chrysanthemum garn1sh, do not overco ok it . Parboil o r steam over a low heat unt il j ust t ender, drain, and simmer in

page

After the Fish Trap is made, the eggplant is deep-fried then the chicken balls are set ever so gent! .ms1"d e, an d the Trap is closed up y again. Drain the eggplant well before stuffing. Depending on your choice of stuffing, you may want to bake the eggplant and stuffing together, or prepare the st uffing ahead of time and then bake.

• Eggpl ant Chrysant hemum in a Japanese Wine Sauce

page

glace stock. O r for up t o 1 pound (450 g) of carrot,

A round eggplant yielded the shape here, but t he bulbous end of an

steam or parboil carrot , drain , th en in a medium fry

oblong specimen will also produce

pan melt 3 tbsp butter, st ir in 3 tbsp of honey, 2 tbsp

good results . Trim one end flat,

Cointreau or brandy, and a spl ash of lemon. Add carrots and stir gently, sim mering f o r a m inute or two

make incisions, and d eep-fry at about 370°F (190°C). Wh en deep-

until carrots are glazed.

frying , cook until t he center is soft. Test with a skewer. Drain well. For more information on the Japanese Wine Sauce, see the Recipe Notes

• Parboiled Dai ko n with Tomato Sauce page

for page 14.

The Japanese daikon radish (aka Chinese radish or giant white radish) is a versatile and nutritious food . It is

ADVANCED CUTS

a m ild-tasting and crisp vegetable that combines well with other flavors. When boiled, it becomes suc-

known as

matcha has become pop-

ular not only as a beverage but as a flavoring agent for main dishes, sal-

ded o r julienned daikon is a refreshing addition to any salad, o r will stand on its own. Chill and then toss with

ads, and desserts. Ground to a fine power, matcha tea lends itself easily to a wide range of recipes, including

oil and vi negar or a dressing of your choice.

ice cream, scones, yogurt, sauces, syrups, tiramisu, dressings, and gratin. To season a chiffon cake, add

EGGPLANT FANCY page

M iniature eggplants were used for the lilies here, but the ends of larger, slim eggplants will work just as well. Whittle the base of the flower down to size if necessary. Deep-fry until soft at the center, but do not I

104

The Japanese powered green tea

culent and absorbent to a degree. Here it is served in a seasoned tomato sauce. Shred-

• Eggplant and Hollandaise Sauce

page

• Matcha Chiffon Cake

4 tsp matcha for every V2 cup (120 ml) of flour.

• Mont Blanc

page

The Japanese have taken to this French dessert in a serious way, and it is easily found. If you are fo rtunate

enough to have this chestnutflavored dessert offered at a nearby bakery, or you make it yourself, consider decorating it with the holly leaf garnish here, glazed of course, or perhaps with one of the other smaller natural garnishes, such as

PART IV

FRU\T

• Stacked Kiwi Fruit

L af or a small Cherry Blossom.

page

mil

Kiwi fruit is often shunned for its tartness or because some cooks find removing its outer skin too much work. But the harried cook can simply cut the fruit in half and allow the diner to use the skin as a natural cup from which he or she can scoop out

the Map Ie e

• Coffee Jelly with Fresh Cream

page

lil

Coffee Jelly is a popular "adult

the fruit. It is important to allow the kiwi to fully ripen,

dessert" in Japan. It has a slightly

usually for 3 to 5 days. If you allow its taste to mature

astringent taste and a pleasing coolness appropriate to hot days. There

(it should be slightly soft to the touch and plump), you'll find kiwi a welcome addition to your table. To

are dozens of recipes around, and

hasten the ripening process, put the fruit in a plastic

they vary in the amount of coffee

bag with apples, bananas, or pears.

and sugar, which you shou ld adjust

• Grapefruit Jelly

to suit your palate. A basic recipe ca lls for 2 cups

page

(480 ml) coffee, 1 tbsp gelatin powder, 2 :bsp sugar, a

A gelatin dessert with fresh fruit

dash of vanilla (optional), and fresh or wh 1pped cream.

instead of canned is a refreshing

Strain the coffee to remove any grounds, then add to

switch. The reason canned fruit has

a pan with the sugar and gelatin over a low heat, stir-

become a popular addition to for

ring until the sugar dissolves. Add vanil la to taste. Let

gelatin desserts is that the fruit is

cool then refrigerate. Serve in a pool of fresh cream or

precooked and so all the enzymes

top with whipped cream. Makes 4 servings.

that would stop the gelatin from page

• Japanese Pumpkin Pudding

tim

solidifying are removed. Fresh grapefruit does not have this problem. Besides the display value of the

The Japanese pumpkin (kabocha)

fresh grapefruit, this gelatin liberates the popular cit-

has an addicting, natura lly sweet

rus from its perennial role as a breakfast offering. For

flavor that really comes to the fore

a basic flavored gelatin recipe, see the Recipe Notes

in puddings. If your local grocer or

for page 71.

specialty shop has kabocha, the pudding is simple to make-and rewarding. For Japanese Pumpkin

• Papaya and Crushed Gelatin

page

lim

Like the kiwi fruit showcased on the

Pudding you'll need 12 oz (350 g) Japanese pumpkin,

previous page, the papaya is a fruit

2 eggs+ 2 egg yolks, 31f2 oz (1 00 g) sugar,

that deserves to have a more promi-

3/4

cup

(180 ml) whipping cream, and 2/3 cup (160 ml) milk. Peel the pumpkin, cut into small pieces (discard the seeds), and boil or steam until soft. Combine the eggs and sugar, then add the milk and whipping cream. Preheat an oven to 320°F (160°C). Mix pumpkin and e~g mixture in a blender at a /ow speed until well mixed. Pour mixture into oven-proof aluminum cups (fo r .md.1v1'd ual servings), set cups in a shallow pan of water, and bake/steam for 50 minutes. The pudding is done when it is solid but still soft throughout.

nent role in the Western kitchen. Here, it is carved and paired with gelatin. In the Morning Glory spread (page 48), it is cloaked in a soft layer of smoked salmon. When selecting papaya, pay attention to the skin. Those with reddish-orange skin and slightly soft to the touch will ripen within a day or so and are good for using quickly. Otherwise, choose those with more yellow skin but make sure to avoid fruit with bruising and more than a few black spots. Also avoid specimens that are completely green or overly hard or soft.

â&#x20AC;˘ Papaya D essert Basket with Berries

page

Ell

This fruit basket contains a surprise . To a basket of berries, fruit salad balls in aspic were added. Fill this basket with berries and other fruits in season, making sure each item in your se lection is ripe and ready to m e lt o n th e palat e.

â&#x20AC;˘ Melon Bird Basket

pages

mm-mm

For best resu lt s, carve the bird, cut and prepare the fruit inserts, then chill separat ely and assemble just before serving. To keep apples from turning brown, carefu lly coat with a weak sa ltwater so lution (1 t sp to 1 quart/1 liter of water) . If you think a slight salty taste will be bothersome, b rush on fresh juice from a lemon, lime, ora nge, o r pinea p ple .

â&#x20AC;˘ Sliced Apple Fiesta

page

Select large apples and consider the color of t he specimen . Do you want a darker-skinned red apple, or a lighter-skinned one? Or perhaps a g reen apple? If desired, dribble honey over the apple slices. Refer to the Recipe Note for the Melon Bird Basket in the previous entry for tips on keeping the apple from turning brown . Serve chilled , with small dessert forks.

KNIVES -

-~-----------

The knife is the most-often used tool in this book_ Maintain a razor-sharp edge on your kitchen knives and keep a sharpening stone nearby. A fine edge will facilitate clean, accurate cuts. While any good knife will work, in my professional capacity I use a one-sided blade because

I believe it yields cleaner cuts and produces a nicer looking garnish. Since Japanese knives are gaining popularity, I thought I'd introduce some of them here. The first two work especially well for carving garnishes, the next two for katsura-muki daikon sheets, and the last for sashimi . Listed by name from left to right, they are kurimuki-bocho ("chestnut-peeling" knife), usuba-bocho (thin-blade knife), mukimonobocho (garnish knife, small and large), and yanagiba-bocho ("willow-leaf-shaped" knife).

107

FOOD C HI SE LS While you can use a number of everyday utensils to accomplish many of the same tasks, having a set of food chisels in the kitchen will serve you well. Once you familiarize yourself with them, you are bound to find new and 1nventive ways to 1ncorporate them into your repertoire of techn1ques. There are two types, curved and V-shaped. The curved edge 1s used for cutting holes or punch1ng out ha lf-moons, the V-shaped for more det ailed work and a point ed cut. As the edges are extremely sharp, use them w ith ca re. Place a thick kitchen t owel over your cutting b oard t o protect it and the chisel edge.

SCALPELS

-----

For detail work, it helps to have several sm aller knives on hand. A t hin-edged steak knife, finely sharpened, will serve t he p urp o se in many instances. Pictured here are professional Japanese scalpel-like cutting t oo ls are known as kiridashi.

PEELERS Peelers can be used for some of th e garnishes in this book. Choose a sturdy o ne with a finely ho ned cutting edge. To make a clean, even cut, emplo y it slowly and steadily.

VARiO US TOOLS work I have a number of tools on 5 iscellaneou , For 111 • d them here for your reference. Melon1 ,nclu e . hand · be found in most k1tchens, and ball scoops can bably stock apple corers and f you pro rl1ost 0 . f ·ck As for the rest of the tools, k1nd o P1 • sorl1e . can be covered by one or more h ir functions t e d utensils. A role-call of every ay . h d . f rn left to ng t, rea s the Items ro s follows: corers/punches, corka ches (handle not shown), screw pun d 'ck melon-ball scoops, an l nee dl e P ' pincers.

\ \

CORERS/PUNCHES The circula r corers have drawn some attention, so they are worth noting separately. These are sturdy, tubular tools with fine edges. When pressed against a food surface and rotated, they easily bore through the food . They are employed with cucumbers on pages 32 and 34, and with eggplant on page 78. As with food chisels, before using them protect the cutting surface and the tool's edge by laying out a kitchen towel.

109

The first book to showcase the Japanese

approach to creating exquisite, edible food garnishes & decorations. • Over 60 garnishes and variations • Full-color, step-by-step photographs • Classic and contemporary motifs • For home, parties, and special occasions • Dozens of new & stimulating ideas • Recipe Notes for expanding your culinary repertoire • Also suitable for professional use

ISBN978-4-7700-3087-0

52495 >