H Magazine Summer 2024

Overtake your expectations.

Audi Vorsprung durch Technik

Audi Q6 SUV 55 e-tron quattro, 388 HP, 19,4–17,0 kWh/100 km, 0 g CO₂/hm, category B

Enjoy

Early check-in and late check-out until 4.00 p.m.

Room upgrades

Complimentary breakfast for two people

Experience credit worth USD 100

A bit of self-indulgence.

Personal service and Swiss hospitality make every flight with SWISS a luxurious treat.

Swiss excellence in the treatment of mental health and issues of substance and behavioural dependency

Clinic Les Alpes is an exceptionally private and secluded retreat. Located in a setting of outstanding natural beauty in the mountains close to the town of Montreux, Switzerland, the clinic has the added convenience of proximity to all major swiss airports.

This exclusive clinic is fully medically licensed by the Swiss Department of Health and treats patients and their families with the issues of substance and behavioural dependency, along with debilitating emotional and mental conditions, such as anxiety, stress, depression and burnout.

Clinic Les Alpes provides a fully integrated approach to treatment and each patient receives a bespoke programme created together with the medical team for his or her individual needs and requirements. The expertise of an international, highly skilled, multi-disciplinary team of medical, psychiatric, psychotherapeutic and complementary practitioners is on hand and available 24 hours a day, seven days a week to be of service to patients and their families who are referred from around the globe. The clinic is multilingual with the primary language being English.

Clinic Les Alpes is beautifully appointed and each of the private ensuite bedrooms has superb views of lake Geneva, the snow capped mountains and alpine meadows. Below the main chateau building, three floors have been excavated from solid rock, flooded with natural light and housing state of the art medical and therapeutic facilities along with a complete floor dedicated to a full medical spa.

Many services claim to deliver excellence. At Clinic Les Alpes we have set our sights on defining it.

We are here to assist. Contact us in complete confidence at:

»The ranking of the “101 best hotels in Switzerland” is valuable for our guests, employees and owners because it is fair, transparent and independent.«

Markus Granelli, The Dolder Grand

We are pleased to present our hotel ranking 101 best hotels In addition to the established hotel ranking 101 best hotels in Germany, the 101 best hotels in Switzerland will be honoured for first time in spring 2025 in cooperation with SonntagsZeitung and Le Matin Dimanche. Our aim is to provide our readers with objective and transparent guidance. We are delighted to present our new coffee table book and webpage next spring, which will provide you with the best addresses in Switzerland.

Alexander Palacios is an artist based in Basel. With his artwork Spektakel he wonderfully illustrates how the Rhine River in close proximity to Les Trois Rois, brings people together and brings joy – friendships and even families are formed. The piece is available upon request. We invited him as the photographer for our cycling trip to Arosa. You can find these remarkable memories on page 59.

SHARED JOURNEYS OF INDIVIDUALITY

We’ve had the pleasure of meeting fascinating individuals who generously shared their life stories for this edition— narratives shaped by surprises, coincidences, creativity, and determination.

Anton Mosimann’s culinary passion ignited at the tender age of eight in his parents’ small restaurant near Biel in the Jura region. Over the years, he has cooked for numerous celebrities and royalty, earning recognition as one of the world’s most renowned chefs. Despite his culinary prowess, he still finds joy in simple food. During our Gourmet Tour, we had the pleasure of connecting with seasoned and young colleagues of Le Grand Monsieur, exploring captivating sights – from Montreux and Vevey to Gstaad, Interlaken, Luzern, and Vitznau – culminating in the kitchen of Heiko Nieder in Zurich (page 34).

Christian von Rechenberg’s journey began two decades ago with an internship at Baur au Lac, followed by another at the legendary Grand Hotel Dolder. Today, he serves as the General Manager of Baur au Lac. During our interview, we asked him to bring personal items, revealing his unique perspective and building the bridge between his past and present (page 74).

In the early 18th century, Nicolas Ruinart, a thriving textile merchant, introduced the delicious champagne wines crafted by his uncle to his wealthy Parisian fashion clients. The demand quickly soared, prompting him to transition into a new venture. He established Maison Ruinart –the first officially recognized champagne house. Our visit during last year’s harvest remains an unforgettable experience (page 98)!

Have you ever considered running a marathon? Beatrice Lessi, a journalist and mother of three, began her running journey at the age of 40, despite having no prior sports experience. Her inspiring story encourages anyone, regardless of age, to embrace new challenges.

As summer unfolds, we encourage you to follow your creativity with courage. Keep your essence, and rest assured –it will be exciting and worthwhile.

May our stories inspire you on this journey!

Evelyn Gorgos

SUMMER HIGHLIGHTS

The Alchemy of Travel 33

A column by Thomas Garms.

Travel Guide

34

Switzerland’s most famous chef is the perfect old-school gentleman and a walking history book. We had the privilege of accompanying him on his unique gourmet tour from Montreux to Gstaad, Interlaken, Lucerne, Vitznau and Zurich.

Spa Review

53

An address that stands for old-world luxury: it’s hard not to feel the thrill of history when staying at the legendary Badrutt’s Palace.

Sharp Shape

59

A story about 360 Alpine bends, road biking in Arosa, friendship and good food.

Chef’s Portrait

83

His culinary creations are always filled to the brim with sunshine – but there’s no season that suits the colourful yet refined cuisine of Marco Campanella more than the summer.

The Taste of Ticino

93

There is no better guide for gourmets in southern Switzerland than Dany Stauffacher.

A gourmet tour with Alex Kühn.

Champagne, baby!

98

A travel story from Basel to one of the world’s strictest regulated wine regions, where all grapes get harvested by hand and each bottle has to age at least 15 months on the lees.

Geneva’s Dreams of Sushi

Welcome to the Izumi, the Japanese restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues.

Oskar

112

Visiting the Lausanne Palace with a Labrador was for owner and author Titus Arnu a great pleasure. A dream destination for all dogs with chocolate, cheese and wine for the master.

Three Times Lucky

Lucerne’s innovative local bar scene with wonderfully tasty creations.

116

Swiss Top Events

Entering a new era with a dedication to sustainability, part II.

Standards

Letter from the Editor 17

122

Swiss Deluxe Hotels Locations 130

Swiss Deluxe Hotels Overview 132 Publishing Credits 143

104

Picture taken by Julius Hirtzberger

KATKA GRIESBACH

Katka’s enthusiasm for creativity and curiosity accompany her in her everyday life. She appreciates modern and innovative design just as much as sustainable and traditional craftsmanship. She has been in the media and fashion industry for more than 20 years now. When she is not working with the Mode Suisse team on the next show production you’ll find her creating and travelling for her bag label Griesbach. With her flair and eye for beauty and all things unique, Katka was the ideal person to help us design our new TREND section and put together our summer must-haves.

RACHEL TRUMAN

is a London-based travel and lifestyle writer and editor, who loves nothing better than zipping over to Switzerland for a blast of fresh mountain air (and a tipple of Swiss wine). She had the great pleasure of accompanying the charismatic Anton Mosimann on his gourmet road trip around Switzerland.

ANITA LEHMEIER

has been working as a lifestyle journalist for over 40 years, with a love of all things culinary. Her favourite place to work is in the kitchens and at the tables of ambitious chefs, be it in luxury restaurants, country inns or neighbourhood pubs. She lives in the heart of rural Switzerland, a region that reflects her love for nature, good produce and genuine country folk. Her mobile phone is filled with the numbers of top chefs, who together have around 300 Gault Millau points between them.

SPECIAL THX TO

BEATRICE LESSI

DAN ROZNOV

JOAN MINDER

is an image maker working with photography and also with film. His practice ranges from artistic to commercial projects, consistently aiming to capture human life in all shapes; honest, raw and atmospheric. This is also what drives and inspires him: the trivialities of life itself. In his images, he creates a variety of genres and new worlds with moody and imaginative settings. After working for five years at Annabelle photo studio, Joan manages his own atelier in Zurich, where he currently lives with his wife and their children.

is a Creative Director, Photographer and Thought Leader who has been creating premium brand communication for over 15 years. His clients include: Apple, Leica Camera, LVMH, Audi, UBS, American Express and St. Moritz. He is also known as blogger Champagne Spy and founder of the Champagne & Friends event series. For this issue, Dan travelled to the Champagne region to experience the 2023 harvest at Maison Ruinart.

is a journalist, blogger, runner, and mother of three. She has run the toughest footrace on earth, Marathon des Sables (256 km in the Sahara desert), Everest Marathon and Antarctica marathon. In this issue, she reviews Le Mirador hotel, and also writes how to prepare for a marathon – something everybody can do at any age. She herself started running at 40, having no sport experience whatsoever. You might be inspired to do so too!

CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE

Cycling is freedom, a lifestyle. For some, it’s a philosophy for life. Author Claudio Del Principe went for a spin around Arosa with Ingo Schlösser, the General Manager of the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. Schlösser draws fascinating analogies between sport and his demanding profession. Photographer and cycling buddy Alexander Palacios captured the whole event in a series of stylish photos.

swiss summer feels

As the warm embrace of summer envelops the picturesque landscapes of Switzerland, we invite you to delve into this summer edition of the Swiss Deluxe Hotels magazine. Within its pages lies a treasure trove of experiences for you to explore, showcasing the most magnificent palaces in Switzerland, nestled amidst the serene mountains, or gracing the vibrant cities. Each page tells a story of luxury, resilience, and the unwavering spirit of hospitality.

In today’s ever-evolving world, luxury hospitality faces unprecedented challenges. Yet, it is precisely in these moments of uncertainty that the true essence of Swiss Deluxe Hotels shines brightest. Our commitment to excellence remains unwavering, as we strive to create experiences that transcend mere indulgence, touching the hearts and souls of our guests.

Amidst the majestic Swiss Alps, our mountain retreats offer solace to weary souls, inviting them to bask in the tranquillity of nature’s embrace. Here, amidst the whispering pines and snow-capped peaks, guests find respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life, reconnecting with themselves and with the world around them.

Equally enchanting are our urban sanctuaries, where the pulse of the city beats in harmony with the timeless elegance of Swiss hospitality. In cities such as Zurich, Geneva, and Lucerne, guests are invited to immerse

Nathalie Seiler-Hayez Managing Director Swiss Deluxe Hotels

themselves in the vibrant tapestry of Swiss culture, while enjoying the unparalleled luxury and impeccable service that define Swiss Deluxe Hotels.

Yet, amidst the beauty and opulence lies a profound sense of responsibility — a commitment to sustainability and social consciousness that defines our ethos. Today’s luxury travellers seek more than just indulgence; they seek meaning and purpose in their experiences. From our eco-friendly initiatives to our support for local communities, every aspect of our hospitality reflects our dedication to a brighter, more sustainable future.

As we embark on a summer filled with endless possibilities, we invite you to join us on a journey of discovery and renewal. Whether amidst the tranquil landscapes of the Swiss Alps or amidst the bustling streets of our cities, let Swiss Deluxe Hotels be your guide to a summer filled with unforgettable moments and cherished memories.

In a world that often feels fragmented and uncertain, let us come together in the spirit of hospitality, forging connections that transcend borders and cultures. Welcome to Swiss Deluxe Hotels — where every moment is infused with the warmth of Swiss hospitality, and every experience is a celebration of life’s beautiful moments.

the fine art of renunciation

WORDS PATRICIA BRÖHM

‘The pandemic was a stroke of luck for us, even if it felt like the complete opposite at the time’, says Daniel Humm. The Swiss-born chef and his acclaimed restaurant in the heart of Manhattan, Eleven Madison Park, which had received every possible accolade in the culinary world by 2020, almost went bankrupt during the forced shutdown caused by COVID-19. For Humm, though, this proved to be a watershed moment: ‘The experience was worth its weight in gold. I had nothing left to lose, and I would never have had the courage to make radical changes otherwise.’ Humm is also certain that he would never have altered course in the way he did if his restaurant had stayed fully booked, night after night, with 300 employees on the payroll. Ahead of reopening in June 2021, Humm sent shock waves through the restauranteering world by announcing that he would be serving a purely plant-based menu going forward, stating that ‘the current food system is simply not sustainable in so many ways’.

However, this radical move didn’t just earn the Swiss native applause. After visiting the restaurant, Pete Wells, the influential restaurant critic for the New York Times, opened his review by stating that ‘Daniel Humm does strange things to vegetables’. Wells had been served a beetroot that had been smoked, dehydrated, rehydrated, wrapped in lettuce, kimchi and nashi pear, and cooked in a clay pot. He didn’t hold back in his piece: ‘It smelled like a burning joint and tasted like furniture polish.’ It was a bitter pill to swallow for Humm, who was used to tasting success. ‘It was brutal, especially because we

had worked so hard to find a new culinary language,’ Humm lamented. The turning point came in October 2022, when EMP (as those in the know call it) became the first vegan restaurant in the world to be awarded three stars by the Michelin Guide. In doing so, Humm had not only set a milestone for the acceptance of plant-based cuisine in gourmet gastronomy, but also proved yet again that he’s one of the most pioneering chefs of our time.

His courage to take the road less travelled, eschew convention and commit heart and soul to his projects have been recurring themes throughout his life. Daniel Humm was born in the village of Strengelbach, in the Canton of Aargau. The son of an architect, he dropped out of school at the age of 14 to begin an apprenticeship as a chef. Aged just 25, he left for San Francisco with only two suitcases and without speaking a word of English. Humm made his way to New York in 2006, took over EMP as a complete unknown, and worked with his business partner at the time, Will Guidara, to take it to the very top. ‘He was always extremely eager to learn, and absorbed new things like a sponge,’ says Humm’s former boss, retired Vaud-based chef Gérard Rabaey, when describing his erstwhile charge. For the now 47 year-old Humm, one thing’s for certain –he’s going to continue on his path as the trailblazer of plant-based gourmet cuisine. Humm has just published the diary that he kept during the pandemic. The title? Eat More Plants. – elevenmadisonpark.com

PHOTO JOAN MINDER

celebrate classical music

Lucerne Festival brings world-famous orchestras, legendary conductors, and acclaimed soloists to idyllic Lake Lucerne. Together with some 100,000 international visitors each year, these artists celebrate a festival of music in the outstanding Concert Hall, which is renowned both for its phenomenal acoustics and for its exquisite architecture.

The Festival takes place four times throughout the year. The highlight is the nearly five-week-long Summer Festival with more than 100 events in August and September, ranging from solo recitals to symphony concerts, experimental performances to open-air appearances by various world music groups throughout the city. At the smaller Spring Festival, the Lucerne Festival Orchestra spotlights a particular composer each year. In early May, the extraordinary pianist Igor Levit curates Piano Fest, which spans the spectrum from classical music to jazz. And at Lucerne Festival Forward in November, the young members of the Lucerne Festival Contemporary Orchestra (LFCO) focus on the music of our time and explore connections with other art forms.

Lucerne Festival is the orchestra festival par excellence: nowhere else can you experience –and compare – so many top international orchestras, one right after the other. Each evening features a different major player from the international music scene. Regular guests include the Berlin and Vienna Philharmonics, the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra from Amsterdam, the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra, the WestEastern Divan Orchestra, the big five orchestras from the USA, and many more …

From the moment you hear them play, it’s clear this orchestra has no parallel. World-class soloists and chamber musicians, renowned music teachers and section leaders of top European orchestras all join together as the Lucerne Festival Orchestra for the sheer pleasure and joy of making music – free of routine responsibilities, but as intensively as if their lives were at stake. This orchestra de luxe was founded by the legendary Claudio Abbado and has been led by Riccardo Chailly since 2016.

WORDS MALTE LOHMANN AND THOMAS MAY

They are young and eager to experiment: more than 100 talented musicians from all over the world arrive in Lucerne every summer, full of curiosity and ready to focus on the new – the sounds of the 20th and 21st centuries – at the Lucerne Festival Academy.

Founded 20 years ago by Michael Haefliger and Pierre Boulez, this unique master school for contemporary music offers thrilling musical discoveries to its audiences. Lucerne Festival has an open ear when it comes to contemporary music: through its annual composersin-residence, numerous world premieres, and the Lucerne Festival Contemporary Orchestra (LFCO).

Lucerne Festival was founded in 1938 as an alternative to the Salzburg Festival, where Jewish artists were banned from performing after the annexation of Austria by Nazi Germany. As a result, Arturo Toscanini, the most famous conductor of the time, decided to cancel his performance in Salzburg in protest. When the opportunity arose, he did not hesitate to come to Lucerne, where an elite orchestra comprising handpicked soloists and outstanding orchestral musicians was organised for him. The gala concert held in front of Richard Wagner’s villa, at which Toscanini led this ensemble, is regarded as the moment when Lucerne Festival officially began.

What do violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter and cellist Sol Gabetta have in common? Both were discovered at Lucerne and launched their international careers here. Lucerne Festival promotes outstanding young artists through its Debut concert series and prestigious prizes. Performances each year by international youth orchestras provide a fresh overture to the Summer Festival. In addition, special programmes aimed at children and families show that classical music is not just for grown-ups.

Its picturesque surroundings generate a unique festival atmosphere: nestled between the lake and mountains, Lucerne offers attractive excursion options. At the same time, the historic Old City’s evocative alleyways and prominent sights make it perfect for a stroll. Lucerne also boasts first-class museums, including the Rosengart Collection featuring works by Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee, the Lucerne Art Museum, the Swiss Museum of Transport, and the Richard Wagner Museum in Tribschen.

a sparkling mind

WORDS ALEX KÜHN

Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin’s official title at Grand Resort

Bad Ragaz is Wine Director . But the wife of Sven Wassmer, whose restaurant Memories has been adorned with three Michelin stars since autumn 2022, isn’t only a force to be reckoned with when it comes to wine. Her alcohol-free pairings are just as memorable. The renowned blog finedininglovers.com even named Memories as one of the 12 best locations in this sector worldwide, alongside restaurants such as Frantzén in Stockholm and Central in Lima. Particularly popular among the alcohol-free accompaniments are drinks with kombucha. This fermented black-tea-based beverage boasts a multi-faceted flavour profile.

‘Kombucha has a delicate acidity that goes well with many flavours from the world of fine dining,’ says Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin, who uses a very broad range of products for the drink’s second fermentation.

‘You can add nuances of everything from strawberry to Swiss pine. In this way, kombucha becomes a real experience for our guests.’ At the same time, the world of wine also remains incredibly important for British-born Wassmer-Bulgin. She, her husband Sven Wassmer and restaurant manager and sommelier Sebastian Stichter make an excellent team: ‘Whereas he transfers an increasing number of ingredients from the treasure trove that is the Alps to his meticulously refined dishes, her wine accompaniment creates pairings that give the whole thing an extra dimension,’ it says in the justification for her selection as Wine Personality of the Year 2022 in the specialist magazine Vinum.

green grapes deluxe

Genevan wines are produced in a wine-growing area measuring more than 1,400 hectares, with only two other Swiss cantons having larger wine-growing areas. The West-Swiss vintages are always considered to be a hot tip outside of their home region. With a large range of grape varieties and a great deal of innovative spirit, Genevan wine growers know how to set themselves apart from their competition, as Peter Keller writes.

The Genevan vineyards are situated just outside the cosmopolitan city in French-speaking Switzerland. The wine-growing area is split into three regions – the right bank of the Rhône , the area between the Arve river and the Rhône river, and the left bank between the Arve and Lake Geneva. Grapevines are planted on a total of 1,400 hectares of land.

Due to the huge variety on offer, there is not a flavour or taste that is characteristic of Genevan wines. Every cru has a distinct taste. Furthermore, the wineries are treading innovative paths, ageing their wines in unusual containers such as amphoras as well as in the usual steel tanks and wooden barrels, and are increasingly producing natural wines.

Wine growers rely on a particularly high number of different grape varieties. In total, 47 varieties. The most commonly grown variety is the Gamay, accounting for around 20% of the grapes grown, followed closely by Chasselas and Pinot noir at 12%. These are joined by specialities such as the Gamaret, Garanoir and Malbec reds as well as the Aligoté, a white grape from the French Burgundy region.

WORDS PETER KELLER

Genevan wines – international in their orientation, massively underrated and treasures worthy of discovery.

Geneva is situated directly on the French border. The influence of the grande nation can thus be easily discerned in the region’s wine-producing methods. Nevertheless, the local wine growers are innovative and eager to try out growing new grape varieties. The region is considered to be extremely dynamic. Accordingly, the quality of the wines produced in recent years has risen steadily.

There are 130 wine producers in the canton of Geneva. They produce an average of 80,000 hectolitres of wine every year, with 51% of this figure being red wines and 49% white wines. These figures change depending on the vintage.

Genevans drink the majority of their wines themselves. The wines are not very well known in other parts of Switzerland, never mind abroad. This is a shame because this is definitely not due to the quality of the wines. The wineries distribute the majority of their products directly from their farms or sell them over the internet.

Genevan wines distinguish themselves from wines from other regions thanks to the excellent valuefor-money they offer. There are myriads of well-made wines available on the market for less than or around 20 francs per bottle. Only a few bottles cost more than 50 francs. This is mainly because the wines are not (yet) seen as being prestigious outside of Geneva – and wrongly so!

Geneva can boast of having a large number of first-class restaurants, both inside and outside the city. The Head Chef of the Domaine de Châteauvieux in Satigny, Philippe Chevrier, even has 19 Gault Millau points. The dishes served in the restaurant are often served with local wines, much to the satisfaction of the guests. The gastronomy sector and wine producers work together, a relationship that proves beneficial for both parties.

NO SWEAT ON THE BENCH

Etiquette rules for visiting the hotel pool and sauna

WORDS THOMAS GARMS

Even hundreds of thousands of years ago, humans enjoyed walking around naked, especially when it was particularly warm or when they went swimming. Over time, they then elevated to an upright position and began to cover sensitive body parts with furs or branches. During the rise of bathing culture, people’s sense of shame developed to such an extent that they began to wear beautifully designed swimwear, which later became increasingly skimpy for fashion reasons. Nowadays we live in ambivalent times, where different cultures come together, and with them different ideas of shame. This is especially true for visitors to the beautiful pool landscapes, steam baths and sauna areas of luxury hotels.

We won’t beat about the bush: the Finnish tradition of going into the sauna completely naked and then plunging naked into the ice water is not the status quo everywhere. Nor is the idea of men and women saunaing in their birthday suits together. For this reason, some establishments have separate textile-free zones. It avoids confusion and discomfort. Some people, however, are determined not to shed their Lycra swimming trunks or bikinis even in these conditions. To them, it should be pointed out that the reasons for taking a sauna unclothed are mainly practical: textiles, especially synthetic fabrics, make sweating more difficult and sometimes release unpleasant odours or even harmful substances at high temperatures.

Let us now turn to the most important rule: shower first, bathe

second. Every hotel spa has changing areas with wonderful showers and deliciously scented shower gels. Feel free to make extensive use of these facilities in order to rinse off the remaining sweat, perfume, cream or make-up on your body. However, out of consideration for subsequent guests, you should always refrain from shaving your legs, chest or other body hair.

When you’re done, slip into the bathrobe provided and approach the pool or sauna with a friendly expression on your face. If possible, you should only take off your bathrobe when you actually enter the water, steam bath or sauna cabin. There are hooks for hanging up bathrobes – simply dropping them on the floor is not an option. Before taking a seat on the bench, spread out your towel to sit or lie on. Make sure that you are sitting or lying completely on your sauna towel. This prevents sweat from dripping onto the sauna bench. After all, you probably do not wish to come into contact with the bodily fluids of other sauna guests any more than they do with yours. Avoid loud conversations with the person sitting next to you (a brief whisper is OK) – it’s about switching off, not chatting! Unsolicited comments (‘Gosh, it’s hot in here!’) are just as taboo as intrusive or even suggestive looks.

After cooling off under the shower or in the ice bath, it’s off to the relaxation room. As soon as you no longer need the lounger or armchair, you must take your towel with you. What is absolutely not acceptable is reserving your favourite lounger with an arrange-

ment of towels, books, magazines, swimming goggles, and so on and so forth, even though the thought of spending the whole day here has not even crossed your mind. Which brings us to another bad habit – the long phone call. The sauna area is absolutely not the place to give instructions by telephone, agree on strategies or comment on the results of football matches.

We all have people in our lives we rather would not meet, especially not in our free time and even less so in the spa area of a hotel. But what if it does happen? What if you bump into your boss or an unpopular colleague in the sauna? What should you say and where should you look when the CEO of a competitor firm suddenly stands in front of you naked as the day she was born? Running away would not be cool. Simply stay calm and say hello in a friendly tone. If possible, sit on the same side, but not directly next to the person concerned. That way, you can avoid any more enforced contact or conversations.

One more thing: masseurs and physiotherapists can be our dearest friends when we treat them with respect. A smile, a friendly greeting and then onto the massage table you go – freshly showered and with neatly trimmed toenails. And on time at the agreed hour. During the treatment, never moan with delight or give commands (‘Harder, harder!’). As in all service professions, the therapist will be pleased to receive a little recognition at the end of the massage. Around ten percent of the treatment price is a good amount.

travel guide

LE BOUVERET

‘There’s no nicer place to watch the sunset over the lake with some light, seasonal food and good friends.’

ANTON MOSIMANN

INTERLAKEN

LUZERN

ZÜRICH

GSTAAD

The gentleman chef treats every counterpart with respect, even his own portrait. Anton Mosimann seems to be saying ‘Please smile’ to his likeness – as he always does himself.

on the road with anton mosimann

Presidents, prime ministers, the royals, half of Hollywood and London’s high society have all enjoyed the privilege of sitting at Anton Mosimann’s table. The only way to top this exclusive experience is to dine with him.

Switzerland’s most famous chef is the perfect old-school gentleman and a walking history book. We had the privilege of accompanying him on his rally through half of Switzerland – in the slipstream of his fiery red Jaguar XKR8.

WORDS ANITA LEHMEIER

PHOTOS ELENA STENESS

MOSIMANN COLLECTION

The Grand Tour Deluxe through Switzerland starts on the grounds of the César Ritz Colleges Switzerland, a hotel management school in Le Bouveret at the eastern end of Lake Geneva. The Mosimanns have travelled from their Swiss home base of Montreux –but they also have a long-time residence in London. Their vehicle is quintessentially British: a fiery red Jaguar convertible built in 1998. Anton opens the passenger door for his wife Kathrin, his chivalry not in the slightest dimmed over the years. They have been married for half a century and celebrated their anniversary in Tokyo in April. ‘I met Kathrin on a flight to Japan in 1970. She was sitting in my window seat! I was happy to let her have it.’

The Mosimann Collection in Le Bouveret features hundreds of black and white photographs of the star chef with his guests – here with Diana, Princess of Wales.

Both were on their way to Expo 70, he as head of the brigade in the Swiss pavilion, she as general governess. They have been inseparable ever since. According to the couple, the secret to long-lasting love is honesty and respect. ‘Early on, I told Kathrin that my job would always come first for me. She respected that and let me work.’ Hard work – you don’t become the youngest boss at the legendary Dorchester – at just 28 years old – without it. Or the Queen’s favourite chef – the go-to for royal anniversaries, state receptions and weddings. The UK’s first TV chef and author of a dozen cookery books. Or mentioned in the same breath as the greats of the hospitality industry, César Ritz and Eugen Pauli. Anton shares his birthday, 23 February, with them.

The Anton Mosimann Collection includes 6,000 cookery books from five centuries and documents from his long career as well as his own recipes, all neatly organised.

For once, Anton Mosimann is not coming to Le Bouveret to work, but to guide our small group through his culinary kingdom. Since the summer of 2016, the chef has been putting his energy into building up The Anton Mosimann Collection. On display are 6,000 cookery books spanning five centuries, the crowning glory of which is Pope Paul I’s cookery book from the 16th century. Other pearls of this collection include first editions of the legendary chef Auguste Escoffier and original menu cards belonging to emperors and tsars. Hundreds of photos show the chef with his fans, bringing together the elite from the worlds of politics, sport, business and showbiz of the last four decades.

´HE HAS WORKED IN 80 HOUSES AND CITIES AROUND THE WORLD.´

All of Mosimann’s engagements are listed on one wall; he has worked in 80 houses and cities around the world. Mosimann wants to use the exhibition to motivate young people to take up the ‘wonderful profession of chef’; he himself has trained around 1,000 chefs. His first teachers were his father and mother, who ran an inn serving simple, honest cuisine. He earned his first money in his parents’ business by working in the kitchen, serving guests – and raising rabbits. This sparked his passion for the catering industry, which he has cultivated with dedication over the course of his professional life.

Fresh bread warm from the oven and a glass of Swiss white wine – Anton Mosimann also appreciates the simple pleasures.

‘After decades in the kitchen, I love being able to just sit down at a table and be surprised.’

A CUT ABOVE

Cooking is part of Anton Mosimann’s DNA

Sat above the rippling waters of Lake Geneva in Le Bouveret is a treasure trove of gastronomy. The Mosimann Collection is the pride and joy of celebrated Swiss chef Anton Mosimann OBE. It’s home to rare cookery books, collectible menus, culinary artefacts and masses of memorabilia, including gifts from the British royal family, that he has collected over his distinguished career.

One of the first celebrity chefs, Anton is now retired from the professional kitchen but still very much keeps his finger on the pulse, representing the industry at events and mentoring students at César Ritz Colleges Switzerland and Culinary Arts Academy Switzerland, where his Collection is based. As well as welcoming visitors for tours, Anton’s vast collection is open to the hospitality students. Eminently approachable and kind, Anton makes a point of taking time to chat to students and any aspiring chefs he meets on his travels. He’s keen to help them flourish in what he describes as the best job in the world

‘I feel very lucky to have had the career that I’ve had and now I have an opportunity to meet and inspire the next generation at my Collection. I want to share my experiences and knowledge so the up-andcoming talent think if Mosimann can do it, so can I. We need them now more than ever,’ he says.

The octogenarian chef certainly has plenty of pearls of wisdom and incredible experiences to impart. He’s amassed numerous professional accolades, starred on TV and cooked

WORDS RACHEL TRUMAN

for countless stars of the stage and screen, not to mention royalty and the political elite.

He first discovered his passion for food at the tender age of eight, having been born to parents who ran a small restaurant in Nidau, just near Biel in the Jura. He began cooking aged eight and has fond memories of making butterzopf or Sunday bread (a weekly ritual he’s retained).

The keen young cook took an apprenticeship at a local hotel aged 15, before holding positions at five different palace hotels in Switzerland, including Gstaad Palace where he was an apprentice pastry chef and the now Mandarin Oriental Palace, Lucerne. At the age of 25, he became one of the youngest chefs to receive the coveted Chef de Cuisine Diploma and he has travelled all over the world to cook.

But there’s one overseas engagement that stands out. He was head chef at the Swiss Pavilion during Expo ’70 in Japan, where he met his wife Kathrin, who was working as the chief housekeeper.

The couple later moved to London where Anton became the youngest ever Maître Chef des Cuisines at The Dorchester, garnering two Michelin stars. It was the first hotel restaurant outside of France to get this accolade. Anton became known for his lighter style of fine dining, known as cuisine naturelle, which he later presented at his private members’ club Mosimann's in Belgravia. King Charles III is a long-time admirer (‘especially of my lamb – always organic’), asking Anton

to cook for him numerous times, including for his 50th birthday celebrations and the wedding of William and Kate.

‘I believe in simplicity. Let food taste of what it is. I always try to elevate it and tweak it but let the natural flavours shine through,’ he says.

Returning to live in Montreux a few years ago, the couple adore this part of Switzerland – the sunsets, the lakeside strolls, the wines and the food. While he loves to eat simply at home – he’s particularly fond of cooking the freshly caught fish from Lake Geneva his friend brings him –he enjoys dining out regularly to see what his fellow chefs are up to. His favourite local summertime haunt is La Terrasse du Petit Palais at Fairmont Le Montreux Palace.

‘There’s no nicer place to watch the sunset over the lake with some light, seasonal food and good friends,’ he says.

Bouquets of dried flowers and gleaming copper hang in the show kitchen of the Mosimann Collection in Le Bouveret.

Recent memorable meals have included Focus at Park Hotel Vitznau on the shores of Lake Lucerne and trying his friend Heiko Nieder’s ‘incredibly intricate and creative cooking’ at the Dolder Grand in Zurich.

He’s also fond of a glass of the local Lavaux wine, strictly after 6 p.m. mind.

‘The wines in Switzerland have improved a lot in recent years. They are very delicate and lovingly produced. We don’t make huge quantities but it’s small and top quality today. And, of course, you should always drink local wine with local food. It goes hand in hand,’ he says.

For a change an outing with two horsepower: a coach ride through Gstaad to the cheese cellar, where thousands of wheels of Berner Alpkäse AOP are stored.

Bouquets of dried flowers and gleaming copper hang in the show kitchen of the Mosimann Collection in Le Bouveret.

THE LAST GENTLEMAN CHEF

Today, the Mosimanns enjoy their free time together. Since 1988, Mosimann has been running a private club in London, in a former church in the upmarket Belgravia neighbourhood. Three years ago, he handed over the reins to his sons Philipp and Mark – so he knows that the brand bearing his name is in the best possible hands. In the summer of 2023, Anton and Kathrin decided that their Grand Tour through half of Switzerland was the perfect opportunity to dedicate some time to their hobbies: eating and travelling. Mosimann, or The Last Gentleman Chef as he is sometimes known, visited the Swiss Deluxe Hotels, a brand for whom he serves as ambassador. ‘I never used to have time to visit all the grand hotels. Today I really enjoy being a guest, just being able to sit down at the table and eat with Kathrin,’ says Mosimann. Wherever Mosimann appears, he is received as an honoured guest by the management. And in the kitchens of luxury hotels, nervousness breaks out in the knowledge that the most famous British chef with Swiss roots is at the table.

This is a privilege that our group also appreciates. But, for all his expertise and worldliness, our companion is not bothered by all our questions. He devotes himself calmly to every single bite, praises the chefs’ creations and is happy to be shown round the kitchens after the meal, engage in shop talk with the chefs and pose for photos with the staff.

The Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. Mosimann’s tomatored Jaguar shines between the pillars of the driveway.

When Mosimann walks through a hotel kitchen, the atmosphere is as reverent as when a king or pope visits. Everyone knows the man, not least thanks to his bow tie. This chic accessory is Mosimann’s trademark: he owns around 300 in total, many of them in bright and bold colours. ‘My mother bought me my first one when I was seven. She said that men with bow ties make a good impression. Only doctors and educated men wore them back then,’ Mosimann –now in his mid-seventies – recalls.

´HE OWNS AROUND 300 BOW TIES IN TOTAL.´

His mother gave Anton his first bow tie when he was seven years old.

‘A man always makes an impression in a bow tie!’

The elegant neckwear item became Mosimann’s trademark.

‘In summer, there's no better place to enjoy the sunset by the lake in the evening, with fine food and good friends,’ says Anton Mosimann about La Terrasse du Petit Palais at the Fairmont Montreux Palace in his adopted home in French-speaking Switzerland.

Between the rally stops, Anton Mosimann cultivates his other hobby: beautiful, fast cars. He drives a tomato-red Jaguar XKR8 built in 1998. Like cooking, he discovered and cultivated this passion for himself at an early age. ‘My first car was a Spitfire. I bought it before I got my driving licence. The exotic car caused quite a stir in the village!’ A foreign sports car seemed to the young chef like the promise of the big, wide world – a world that he would go on to explore, sometimes on four wheels. He took part in numerous rallies, including across Russia and Mongolia. ‘Our convoy arrived half-starved in Ulaanbaatar after a terrible day full of mishaps. We were dusty and dirty, our hands smeared with oil. A visit to a restaurant was out of the question in our state. At the huge market in the metropolis, I found some luncheon meat of dubious quality and a Russian Emmental cheese, or at least cheese with holes in it. I used these ingredients to make what is probably the world’s worst Wurstsalat. But we were so famished that it tasted wonderful.’ Things were more comfortable at the rallies that Mosimann later organised himself. He travelled twice in convoy with a group of fellow classic car lovers from London through half of Europe on the Grand Tour through Switzerland, stopping at luxury hotels along the way. Unfortunately, the last planned Mosimann Rally fell victim to the pandemic.

BEAT A RETREAT TO THIS MONTREUX GEM

WORDS RACHEL TRUMAN

A must for music lovers, Claude Nobs Chalets are set above Montreux in Caux under the ragged Rochers de Naye mountains. A short, steep and scenic road, edged by swaying wildflowers and with vertiginous views of Lake Geneva at every turn, leads up to the tiny mountain hamlet where the late Claude Nobs lived. A Montreux local, Nobs founded the city’s esteemed jazz festival in 1967, operating it from this 19th century farmhouse, known as Le Picotin. It was his home, office, studio and venue for the extravagant parties he famously threw for visiting musicians.

An ordinary looking traditional chalet on the outside, it’s an extraordinary sight inside with its quirky interiors and high-tech sound systems. As well as being home to the extensive audio-visual archives of the festival’s concerts, which are inscribed in the UNESCO Memory of the World International Register, its rooms are filled with myriad treasures such as rare art and priceless memorabilia. Among them are Freddie Mercury’s pianos and a kimono, guitars that belonged to Carlos Santana and BB King and artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol, Ronnie Wood and David Bowie. One room houses Nobs’ extensive collection of model trains, vintage jukeboxes and pinball machines, along with reams of LP records.

A second chalet, Le Grillon, is where the tour ends with a screening of some of the most iconic performances of the Montreux Jazz Festival over the years. Guests are seated on vintage cinema seats and the audio quality is so outstanding you feel like you’re right there in the festival crowds watching Prince, Bowie and Ed Sheeran perform.

Available for private events and small group tours by prior appointment only, the fascinating audiovisual tours are led by the Claude Nobs Foundation. As well as seeing the private home and work studios, the tour is peppered with starry stories and anecdotes about the Montreux Jazz Festival.

THE CLAUDE NOBS CHALET

Mosimann then got back in the swing of things last summer, starting in Le Bouveret. From there, the convoy headed to Montreux, to the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, where a Mediterranean-inspired dinner was served at La Terrasse du Petit Palais. The only thing that could draw our attention away from the creations of chef Thomas Vételé was the magnificent view of Lake Geneva in picture-perfect weather. The next morning, a visit to the Claude Nobs Chalet was on the programme, where Simon Lepêtre, Nobs’ former assistant, guided us down musical memory lane. Star chef Guy Ravet awaited his celebrity guest for lunch at the Grand Hotel du Lac. Ravet gave Mosimann a tour of his kitchen, and the young and old master posed for photos. From Vevey, Mosimann then had the opportunity to take the winding scenic route to Gstaad.

We then switched to a rather more traditional form of transport to travel on from Le Grand Bellevue to a cheese cellar. The carriage ride took us through the picturesque village, past the chalets of the affluent Gstaad residents on a hill that offers the best view over the Saanenland and Nobeldorf, to a cheese cellar, a former underground water reservoir, where 3,000 wheels of regional cheese mature in the cool atmosphere 25 metres below ground. Gstaad veteran Hans-Peter Reust joined the group for dinner in the hotel restaurant, Leonard’s. The trained cheesemaker talked about the unique attributes of the local area, from the cuisine to the people.

Early in the morning, before heading off on the next leg of the journey, Mosimann was to be seen in smart sportswear instead of his usual bow tie. He was on his way to the gym at Le Grand Bellevue. Working out is part of his morning schedule at least every other day – without exception. Health and fitness are the be-all and end-all of well-being, not only for chefs, but also for retirees. His discipline when it comes to exercise probably also explains why the culinary heavyweight has been able to maintain his slim physique, despite the sumptuous feasts that his fellow chefs treat him to wherever he goes. As a young man, he struggled with his slim build and wanted to become a wrestler. What a blessing for the culinary world that Mosimann gave up this dream early on and made a career in the kitchen instead of the sawdust!

LE GRAND BELLEVUE

´AS A YOUNG MAN, HE STRUGGLED WITH HIS SLIM BUILD AND WANTED TO BECOME A WRESTLER.´

Mosimann only knows Le Grand Bellevue in Gstaad as a guest. He worked in Gstaad in 1974/1975, albeit at the Palace Hotel. Here, as a qualified chef, he went back into training as a pastry chef.

© Pascal Berger commissioned by Switzerland Tourism

VICTORIA JUNGFRAU GRAND HOTEL

MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE

In the afternoon, the group takes the former Freiersweg over the Brünig pass to Lucerne, led by the Mosimanns in their roaring Jaguar. At the Mandarin Oriental Palace on the waterfront, Mosimann is served dinner in the new MOzern Bar & Brasserie –along with a helping of déjà vu. The suite under the roof offers the same magnificent view that Mosimann once enjoyed as a chef in Lucerne’s first house on the square. ‘But the view was the only luxurious thing about our room,’ he says with a grin.

From idyllic Gstaad, the journey continued along a winding road to Interlaken and the Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel. For lunch at the Radius, chef Stefan Beer offered up a thrilling selection of local specialities in his Menü vo hie . The delicacies included a refined take on sliced cheese – a ‘souvenir from military service’ – explains Beer, and a composition of rhubarb and meringue, a sweet treat made from egg whites that is pale as snow and named after the village. Beer is clearly delighted to meet the living legend, having been an admirer of Mosimann since his time as an apprentice. Mosimann also has a personal memory of the Victoria. He didn’t work here, but Kathrin did – and young Anton regularly came here to visit her after finishing work in Lucerne. He gladly made the long journey over the Brünig pass to see his sweetheart. ‘I used the fire escape to climb into her room at night. We weren’t married yet, so I wasn’t allowed to take the official route through the hotel.’

At the Radius restaurant in the Victoria Jungfrau in Interlaken, only the décor is exotic. The name is also aptly chosen, as chef Stefan Beer sources all the ingredients for his menus within a radius of 50 kilometres.

The journey of several hours continues over the Klausen Pass – a scenic diversion – to Zurich. Lunch is served at La Réserve Eden au Lac, and the rally ends in the evening with a final highlight: dinner at Julian Mai’s Saltz and a night at The Dolder Grand.

From Lucerne, another picturesque route leads us along the shores of Lake Lucerne to the next rally point, the Park Hotel Vitznau. Mosimann joins in with lunch on the lakeside terrace of the fairytale castle, created by star chef Patrick Mahler, but holds back when visiting the fabulous wine cellar. ‘Don’t drink if you’re driving!’ – another one of his iron-clad rules.

Seafood with a view of Lake Lucerne at the Park Hotel Vitznau. One of the largest and most interesting wine cellars in the country is hidden underneath the fairytale castle.

THE DOLDER GRAND

The Mosimanns have the Mediterranean appetisers at La Réserve Eden au Lac in Zurich explained to them.

Kathrin and Anton Mosimann on a visit to Heiko Nieder’s realm, in the kitchen of the Dolder Grand in Zurich.

The star chef has been awarded 19 GaultMillau points and two Michelin stars.

SIGHTS SET ON RELAXATION

A story written by one family, and an address that stands for old-world luxury: it’s hard not to feel the thrill of history when staying at the legendary Badrutt’s Palace. Especially if you’re here for a 24-hour spa break with bells, whistles and one incredibly comfy bathrobe.

WORDS STEFFI HIDBER

It would have been a bit of a stretch, piloting a private jet from Zurich to Samedan St. Moritz, but honestly: the train trip from Chur, twisting its way over the Albula Pass, was so captivating that even the most jaded of travellers would have dropped their phone. Arriving at St. Moritz, the Badrutt’s experience starts with a first glimpse of one of the mainstays of the legendary hotel: its spiffily-dressed concierges waiting by one of the establishment’s Rolls Royce limousines. The golden era of stylish travel both begins and ends here, and we’re ready for it!

Since opening in 189 6, Badrutt’s has not only remained in the hands of one family, but continuously offers one of the world’s finest Alpine getaways. A fairytale castle nestled right in the heart of St. Moritz, the hotel cultivates its history while embracing the modern guest – and is currently undergoing a number of upgrades to reflect the changing demands (and thrilling possibilities) of modern hospitality. As per the Winter 2024 season, about half of the hotel’s 155 rooms and suites in the main building have been renovated, but the classic rooms still offer the charming authenticity and not-soquiet luxury that the house stands for.

A brand-new building, right across Via Serlas, has been under construction since 2022 and will offer a unique Badrutt’s experience in – as the resident marketing executive whispers –25 ultra-modern luxury suites and spaces designed by Italian architect Antonio Citterio. I wasn’t aware of the fact that the Palace Tower, the iconic symbol of the Badrutt’s, is actually a reconstruction, as the original tower was destroyed in a fire in 1967 and was later rebuilt. If you’re up for a truly unforgettable stay, the Penthouse Suite can finally be rented as well, having been completely unavailable to stay in for over 30 years, when it was rented consistently by a mystery guest never to be named. The three-storied, 3,400 square-foot suite with two terraces and four bedrooms is yours from 15,000 Swiss francs a night, so you might want to start planning accordingly.

The Palace remains a beloved favourite of celebrities and bon vivants from around the world.

©

Left and top right: Andrea Furger, Paul Thuysbaert

For our stay, we’re whisked away into one of the classically decorated rooms, with a breathtaking view of the lake and surrounding mountains. As St. Moritz is situated in the very heart of Switzerland, the travelling distances from Zurich and Milan are almost exactly the same, clocking in at around 2.5 hours. Unsurprisingly, there were a lot of Italian guests during our late winter visit, and I find myself saying ‘grazie’ and ‘buona sera’ to most of the highly attentive staff that never fail to greet guests. I’m not surprised to later find out that the Badrutt’s Palace is the only hotel to be found in the top ten of the Swiss Arbeitgeber Award 2024 : the staff really seems genuinely happy to be there, and happy to see you – the perfect combination to inspire a return visit. Well, that and the amazingly flattering and fluffy bathrobe we’re about to don to head down to the spa.

RECONNECTING WITH YOURSELF palace wellness

Laid out over two floors and offering an unobstructed view of Lake St. Moritz, the Palace Wellness Spa offers a haven of calm to those smart enough to spend a morning or early afternoon there, as well as the perfect spot to unwind and have a bit of fun after a long day on the slopes. As my focus is always pretty set on relaxation, rather than hurling down the pistes (which were, by all accounts, amazing!), I was able to enjoy the beautiful indoor pool on a supremely sunny day with only a handful of other guests quietly dozing on one of the dozens of indoor lounges.

Contentedly heading back and forth between the Spa’s sauna, steam baths, day beds and whirlpools, it’s easy to spend a day here. With a bit of advance planning, a wide range of wellness and beauty treatments can be booked as well. During my stay, I was able to enjoy a spontaneous and beautifully relaxing full-body massage with botanical oils, but the spa also offers an Advanced Facial Collection with French beauty brand Biologique Recherche as well as a range of holistic relaxation rituals.

The decor in the spa clearly pays homage to the natural materials that surround the Engadine, with beautiful stone details, clever additions of traditional artisan paintings and, of course, the clear mountain water that sparkles right in front of our eyes. For those who prefer a more private experience, the Palace Spa Suites offer the perfect balance of rejuvenation and luxury in an exclusive, intimate setting – with prices starting at CHF 550.00 for a 2.5 hour suite occupancy.

The addition of a new outdoor infinity pool is on everyone’s lips at the Badrutt’s during our stay: by the time you’re holding this edition of H Magazine in your hands, dear reader, you should already be able to take an enchanting swim in it… maybe while snowflakes slowly melt on your head and with a refreshing non-alcoholic cocktail from spa restaurant La Diala in your hand. Whether it’s on a sunny summer’s day or on a crisp mid-winter afternoon: it would be a crime not to plan a few hours’ stay in the Palace’s wellness area, completing the immersive experience in one of Switzerland’s most unforgettable hotels. Twentyfour hours are most definitely not enough. But enough to ensure that I’ll be back.

The Palace Spa’s newest addition is a brand-new infinity pool, visually reaching right into beautiful Lake St. Moritz.

luxurious touches

1 – I can’t resist a good LED mask, and these eye patches are taking my favourite luminosity-boosting at-home technology to a new level: used 3x a week for 10 minutes, these babies visibly smooth and brighten the undereye area.

2 – If you were asking yourself how French beauty brand Nuxe could possibly improve its bestselling hair and body oil Huile Prodigieuse, we just got the answer: a dd rose gold shimmer and natural scents of grapefruit, neroli and musk!

3 – This gorgeously smooth powder blush may look super-bright, but the terracotta pigment softens each of the six vibrant shades to flawlessly match any complexion. They’re my new go-to for a fresh summer look!

4 – This newly launched, doctorbacked natural skincare brand already ticks so many boxes that are important to me (Swiss-made and highly effective, for starters) that it was easy to fall in love with this instantly brightening, luxurious face mask.

5 – There’s no other way to put it: this extremely nourishing, highly concentrated shampoo by Munichbased celebrity hairstylist Elizabeta Zefi is a revelation for dry, damaged hair, thanks to amazing ingredients like pearl extract, rose oil and hyaluronic acid.

BEAUTY HIGHLIGHTS CURATED BY STEFFI HIDBER

Guerlain Terracotta Blush, approx. CHF 68

MZ Skin LightMAX Supercharged LED, approx. CHF 395

Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse Or Florale, approx. CHF 30

Elizabeta Zefi Divine The Extraordinary Shampoo, approx. CHF 125

Verdilab Luminosity Boosting Vitamin C Mask, approx. CHF 129

Endurance training like cycling in the mountains provides the basic fitness for long, demanding workdays as a General Manager.

SHARP SHAPE

Over 360 Alpine bends lie ahead of us. My fingers are tingling. My hands would now rather be clutching the slim handlebars of a road bike and not the padded car steering wheel. The Schanfiggerstrasse is considered the most winding road in Switzerland, leading from Chur up to the beautiful destination of Arosa. The legendary Chur-Arosa mountain bike race takes place on this route every year. It has been a fixed date on the Swiss cycling scene since 1981. With 29.3 kilometres in length and 1,191 metres in altitude, elite riders finish it in just over an hour. Ambitious amateurs should expect to take two and a half hours. At the end of the race, there is a unique panorama view to enjoy. The higher you climb, the more likely you are to spot one or two wild animals. And you will also want to stop every now and then to take a few nice photos, because nowadays road cycling is a lifestyle. It is a statement that you want to document and share.

WORDS CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE PHOTOS ALEXANDER PALACIOS

The fashionable gear from independent brands such as Rapha, Café du Cycliste and Pas Normal Studios alone is enough to encourage this. They keep their dedicated community happy with the pathos of freedom, designed cafés and perfect storytelling. One thing that stands out is that the new cycling aficionados today include many top chefs, sommeliers and hotel managers, all of whom are fit, body-conscious and at the same time pleasureseeking. A good example of one such person is the person we are interviewing today – Ingo Schlösser, Director of the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. A job like that isn’t exactly a walk in the park. How do you manage to cope with endlessly long working days and then take part in such strenuous training sessions? ‘It’s the other way round,’ explains Ingo Schlösser. ‘The balance provided by the training helps me to manage such a workload much more easily! It provides me personally with basic conditioning.’

However, this is hard-earned. On the bike tour we take together, he talks about his favourite activities: he doesn’t just ride road and mountain bikes. He also takes part in triathlons, rode the Engadine bike marathon, was an Iron Man finisher and regularly goes jogging. ‘Preferably in a group. I meet up with guests and locals twice a week at 5.50 am, then we jog around the lake.’ Do you prefer outdoor sports? ‘Oh, yes. I don’t like sports that take place on playing fields that are limited by rules.’ His next sporting goal is to ski-tour the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt.

During his studies, Ingo Schlösser used cycling training to study with audiobooks.

A hotel manager is often referred to as a host or hotelier. Ingo Schlösser simply sees himself as a ‘caretaker’. He pulls a Swiss army knife out of one trouser pocket and a set of Allen keys out of the other. ‘If I walk through the building and see that a screw needs to be tightened somewhere or something small needs to be repaired, I do it myself straight away.’ He likes this hands-on mentality, as well as flat hierarchies, philanthropy, discipline and commitment. Here, too, he draws parallels with sport. ‘I always say, if you want to sprint, do it on your own. If you want to do a marathon, do it with other people. I set a pace with my team that everyone can follow and I show a lot of understanding. This way, we can reach our goal together. I wish that managers in other sectors had more of an idea of what their company does at a grassroots level, then the quality of service would improve in every area.’

In this way, he provides an example to his team of the passion that he expects in return. The guests also love his presence and helpfulness, as well as his charming friendliness. Some years ago, he offered free coaching sessions on cordiality in the region as this was something that was important to him. His aim was for holiday guests to be also able to experience this outside of the hotel – from the ski lift to the bakery. ‘Being cordial doesn’t cost a penny, it has to come from within.’

Schlösser, married with two children, shares the management duties with his wife Silvana. He has previously worked in renowned hotels such as the Cresta Palace Hotel, The Dolder Grand Hotel, Jörimann’s Refugium and the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, which is part of the Tschuggen Collection, and gained management experience after successfully completing his postgraduate studies in Hotel Management. ‘During my studies, I used cycling to study. During training, I would listen to audiobooks, such as Steven Corway’s: The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People. This works really well for me.’

´I ALWAYS SAY, IF YOU WANT TO SPRINT, DO IT ON YOUR OWN. IF YOU WANT TO DO A MARATHON, DO IT WITH OTHER PEOPLE.´

Schlösser describes himself simply as a hut keeper, but is in fact a perfect host and human manager. ‘You are entrusted with the most valuable time of the guests. We handle it carefully and design unique experiences.’

which we enjoy on the sunny terrace after the mountain ride.

Later, we sit on the sun terrace and treat ourselves to one of the chef’s specials: Grisons paella. This is a dish that trained chef Ingo Schlösser spontaneously created from local ingredients when he discovered a large paella pan in the kitchen by chance and served to guests at a hotel event, much to their delight. Instead of rice, Grisons barley forms the basis for this hearty, harmonious dish. It is enriched with Swiss chard, Luganighe sausages, chicken and savoury Bündnerfleisch (see the box for the recipe).

‘However, something that is much more exciting,’ he says, ‘is the plant-based menu from our Head Chef Uwe Seegert. It is creative, flavourful, healthy, light and does not require any substitute products. We see it as part of our holistic Moving Mountains holiday programme, which promotes vitality, experiencing nature in a new way and celebrating joy and fun.’ What are his guests looking for? ‘They are looking for a sense of restfulness. Nature and connecting with it. Finding themselves as well as discovering new experiences and sharing them with others.’ He continues: ‘We are entrusted with our guests’ most valuable time and we treat it with great care. We create memories, design unique experiences, take them out of their comfort zone, empower them and make their recovery as holistic as possible.’

Do you also take time out from doing any sport? ‘Well, I prefer to be active. I play golf. This helps to reduce stress and makes it easier to come up with new ideas and solutions. Your head needs to be clear when you play golf. Approaching the game without any stress or worries is key. Seeing yourself and recognising yourself is just as important. And recently I finally bought the ideal car for taking part in the Arosa Classic Car Rally. A Porsche Turbo 944 from 1987.’ That sounds like an interesting event. After all, there are plenty of inspiring curving roads on his doorstep.

grisons paella

INGREDIENTS PER PERSON

50 g

50 g

50 g

2 tbsp 1 tsp 1 1

diced carrot, celery, onion and dried meat

pearl barley butter

White wine to deglaze the paella and for the cook to enjoy grated parmesan chopped fresh herbs

Olive oil for frying chicken breast

Salsiccia or Aroserli (sausage)

Alternatively, add Swiss chard strips and diced tomatoes

METHOD

Put some olive oil into the pan and heat over a medium heat. Add and fry the carrots and celery cubes. Then add the diced onion and sauté until golden brown. Add the pearl barley and fry briefly. Then deglaze with white wine and top up with a small amount of water. Add the dried meat (be careful when seasoning, as the dried meat and parmesan contain a lot of salt). Afterwards, fry the chicken breast and sausages. When the barley is still slightly al dente, reduce the heat and add the butter a little at a time. Then fold in the parmesan and season with the herbs.

Schlösser loves to connect different things. Like his hearty creation Graubünden Paella,

Relaxed tailored luxury

Zurich’s Dolder Grand hotel is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year, and has long stood as a beacon of timeless, casual luxury. This lifestyle is reflected in the exclusive 1889 X 1899 capsule collection, which the storied hotel has created in collaboration with international fashion brand Windsor. A carefree celebration of the modern spirit of being and travel, this limited edition capsule collection centres on timeless and contemporary pieces such as bomber jackets, pyjamas, sweaters, shirts and baseball caps, all real eye-catchers that make a clear statement and radiate personality. The collection is available in the Dolder Grand hotel shop, as well as the Windsor online shop, at Windsor stores and in selected department stores. – thedoldergrand.com and windsor.de

WINDSOR X THE DOLDER GRAND

CURATED BY KATKA GRIESBACH

Get sporty

This sports and leisure shoe incorporates comfort features and premium technology to keep up with your active lifestyle. – newbalance.ch

The smell of nature

As the first Vincent Micotti x Teodor Currentzis edition, έαp 16 opens a profound dialogue between humans and nature. This unique olfactive composition exudes notes of fresh forest air and cold stone benches. – ysuzac.com/spitzenhaus.com

Il dolce far niente

With picturesque little towns, idyllic bays and sumptuous villas lining its shores, Lake Como captivates readers and visitors alike with its mystical allure. The perfect coffee table book for daydreamers! – assouline.com

Limitless imagination

Like a wearable work of art adorned with opulent embroidery, this flocked stretch-tulle top is just the thing. – etro.com

You can leave your hat on!

For fashionable heads, made from braided natural straw and finished by hand with a leather band and embroidered shimmering monili. – shop.brunellocucinelli.com

Heavenly pairings

To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Schloss Schauenstein, chef Andreas Caminada has crafted an exclusive menu paired with six different Dom Pérignon champagnes, only to be enjoyed on 1 December 2024. – schauenstein.ch

Hold on tight!

Crafted from Saffiano-print leather, this practical yet stylish envelope pouch is the ideal accessory whether you’re in the office or out for drinks with friends. – montblanc.com

Forest green

Crafted from the finest calfskin, this tote bag is defined by its convenient, asymmetric handles, generous, curved shape and unique details. – ferragamo.com

MONTBLANC

FERRAGAMO

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

ETRO

Quiet luxury

Distinguished by its eclectic personality, the Buckle bag takes on a unique look, made of the finest calfskin, with the belt detail that outlines the upper profile and allows for various customisations. – prada.com PRADA

Made for walking

Whether you love to be out and about in a city or prefer more rural settings, these stylish, soft calfskin sandals will take all the strain with their sturdy rubber sole. – hermes.com

Out in the green

A modern outdoor kitchen designed by Ethimo and Gordon Guillaumier for alfresco socialising. – ethimo.com ETHIMO

Fragrance on the go

Stylish and with the radiant freshness of the fragrances from the Acqua di Parma Home Collection, they will make your trip to the mountains unforgettable. – acquadiparma.com

SWISSLINE COSMETICS

For sun lovers

An innovative and extremely effective sun care product that protects your skin from harmful UV rays. The light and delicate cream fluid moisturises and revitalises your complexion at the same time. Cell Shock Age IntelligenceTM Never-Creased Sunscreen SPF50. – swissline-cosmetics.com

Revolutionary pioneering spirit

Superlative high-tech packed into an architectural carbon housing with the best riding comfort. The innovative Swiss e-bike company is backed by cycling pioneer Thomas Binggeli and the former Managing Director of The Dolder Grand Mark Jacob. – twinner.ch

Back to the future

The LV Super Vision Pilot Sunglasses will energise any look with their futuristic, aerodynamic lines. – louisvuitton.com

ZIMMERLI OF SWITZERLAND

Urban resort

Made from unique and elegant high-quality cotton, this extremely comfortable men’s polo shirt feels completely natural on your skin. – zimmerli.com

LOUIS VUITTON

TWINNER

ACQUA DI PARMA

HERMÈS

A new fountain of youth at the centre of the city

Unwind and recharge your batteries to give yourself the gift of holistic well-being. BEYONDSKIN is the new spa hideaway in the heart of Zurich.

The sense of privacy and peace that permeates each of its stylishly appointed rooms invites guests to leave the stress of everyday life behind. In addition to stunning views of Lake Zurich and the Alps, BEYONDSKIN also offers a comprehensive range of treatments. These include facial rejuvenation using luxury cosmetics provider MBR’s exclusive skincare solutions, which are characterised by their high concentration of active ingredients and excellent skin compatibility. The spa’s professional team, which includes a surgeon, offers an extensive range of therapies based on each patient’s individual needs. The unique Madero massage, for example, offers a new physical sensation like no other. Originating in Colombia, this treatment involves the use of specially made wooden tools to manipulate muscles, fat deposits and cellulite, stimulating the lymphatic system to rid the body of stored toxins. This release of toxins increases your metabolism to burn fat and redefine your body’s contours, with visible results even after the first few treatments!

– BEYONDSKIN AG, Freigutstrasse 12, CH-8002 Zurich – beyond-skin.ch

BEYONDSKIN

Vevey and Lake Geneva seen from the iconic Terrace on Mont Pèlerin – today it would never be possible to build it as wide and impressive. A veritable piazza on the mountain.

ABOVE THE CLOUDS

WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

The limousine door opened, and a stiletto touched the ground, followed by the sound of high heels click-clacking down the entrance of Le Mirador Resort & Spa. Long legs, floating blonde hair, the lady wore a cream dress and sunglasses, her two kids following behind her. The boy, about 12 years old, sprinted towards reception but, all of a sudden, stopped to stare at the view. ‘Wow, mummy!’ He put his hands on the huge window – well, a whole glass wall, really – making a round shape with his fingers, as if he was looking through binoculars. I went close to him and couldn't help but do the same, like an enthusiastic kid myself, while staff waited for us to finally check in. I guess reception is used to it: guests simply have to admire the spectacular view first.

Sculptures by J. Seward Johnson are scattered around and outside of the Mirador Resort & Spa. This iconic couple is the most photographed of them all.

LE TRIANON

Adorned with paintings here and there, the restaurant exudes a strong artistic allure, reflecting the hotel as a whole, particularly evident in the central column embellished with the artwork of Swiss artist Jérôme Rudin. Situated in the heart of the hotel within its historic building, Le Trianon restaurant embodies the essence of Le Mirador: a place where time seems to pause, offering a unique experience. Delight in the culinary wonders of a gourmet restaurant, enhanced by breathtaking views.

TELLURIC ENERGY

After that, it’s all about the energy. I entered my room, sorted out my luggage, sat for a moment looking at the mountains … and fell asleep! This must be the reason why a Tibetan centre is not far away, and I guess it’s also why the Harvard Business School launched a European programme here, back in 1971. The 120 years of the Mirador history has seen countless businessmen, royals, actors, musicians, politicians and local and foreign personalities relaxing as well as working and producing their best creations in this special location.

A room in the Attica Duplex Suite, where cream and beige tones meet the sky. Glass panels decorate the whole upper floor.

Breakfast in the restaurant, or your own room? It doesn’t matter what you choose, views are always stunning.

BUBBLY BRUNCH

Right after checking in, I had a quick shower (modern and spacious – one of the hotel’s strong points) and then joined the recently renovated Patio restaurant, with its lively brunch. Apart from its breathtaking views, I loved the lavish buffet with everything from vegan to classic French options. Oysters and champagne, healthy smoothies, an à la carte menu being served to a mixed crowd of locals and hotel guests. I had to think very hard of a better brunch that I’ve tried recently. To me, this is one of the best offered in the whole of Switzerland.

THE SPA

The next day, at 6.30 a.m., I was welcomed at the iconic, glass-domed pool by Lamia Eggel, the spa manager, who I felt could have been my sister: lively and cheerful, she gave me a quick tour of the fitness area (over three floors, to make sure views are visible from everywhere), and, when I commented on the hotel’s fresco, she also told me that she had studied art. There is a definite sense of love for beauty and aesthetics at Mirador. Lamia also switched to Italian and mentioned that they speak 14 languages fluently, just at the spa. I finally jumped in the pool, mesmerised by the surrounding mountains.

The spa balcony is an ideal location to relax or be active. The spa is situated on three levels, so one can enjoy the landscape while moving, but also while having a beauty treatment or massage.

AN INSTITUTION

With more public space than for the rooms, an oak-panelled library with a billiard table, beautiful gourmet restaurants, the Fontainebleau classic ballroom, sleek and modern suites, the impressive spa and treatment areas also looking out into the blue, the historic Mirador building never feels packed – not even in high season. Today, it could never be built like this; it would be considered inefficient. Its iconic staircase and the many levels looking out at nature from every side are an institution, a place to meet, be romantic, have a laugh, network or enjoy an active holiday. The calmness of the location, the pure and fresh air in the mild temperatures make it a favourite excursion for nature lovers. This is paradise: with a touch of wildness, the art and the friendly staff, you might again discover the eternal child that is inside you.

Yoga with a view at the wellness area, 1,750 m2 of pure relaxation.

how to prepare for your first marathon

WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

18 weeks before

01 GO FOR A HEALTH CHECK

Go to a doctor for a check-up, and make sure that your general condition is suitable for a marathon.

02 INVEST IN GOOD SHOES

This is not a marketing trick: good shoes are really important and you will need three or four different pairs of them, so your feet and body can get used to different movements and running styles. When you think about training for a year, that’s not too many. Go to a specialised shop where an expert can test your running style and consult you personally. Ideally you should have:

A well-supported shoe, a bit heavier (about 300 g) for long, slow runs

A lighter one for fast training sessions or competitions

A trail running shoe to run on trails and enjoy the outdoors

A neutral running shoe (zero-drop, which means rather flat) to stimulate the use of the foot

03 FOUR TIMES A WEEK ARE PLENTY

You can choose an online programme, ask a coach or download an app, but don’t train too much; rest is paramount. Aim at doing four types of different runs a week. If one or two weeks you’re busy, sick or don’t feel like it, it’s ok. If you want to train a fifth day, do some strength training (squats, lunges, planks, etc).

04 RULE OF THUMB: RUN 42KM A WEEK

To give you an idea of the total amount of work you’ll need to do, keep this in mind: if you want to run 10 km in one day, you’ll need to run at least 10 km each week. If you want to run 25 km in one day, you need to run at least 25 km each week. Therefore, if you want to run 42 km in one day, you need to run at least 42 km each week (and not necessarily a lot more than that).

05 AVOID THE MOST COMMON MISTAKE: ALWAYS RUNNING THE SAME ROUND

Aim at running four times a week, but in four different ways. This is because the most common mistake beginners make is falling into a routine and always doing the same round. It feels good (you get used to it and maybe even improve your time), but really, you’re on a plateau, therefore working a lot, but risking not finishing. What’s a better strategy instead?

06 INTRODUCE INTERVALS

As I’ve already mentioned, you need to use different training styles. Once a week, give your body a little shock by going faster. Short repetitions that won’t allow you to speak and require you to rest in between. They are called intervals, and you can check some of the many ways to do them online.

07 RUN EASY, RUN INTERVALS, DO A LONG RUN, AND DO A TEMPO RUN

Easy means easy – don’t worry if you are slow. Intervals are short and hard. Long runs are usually done at the weekend. A tempo run is a bit faster than an easy run, but still at a speed you can keep for a long time.

08 GADGETS

I don’t need any gadgets (watch or special app), but if you like technology, go for it! Whatever is fun or motivates you is welcome.

09 EAT MORE PROTEIN

I haven’t tested you and I’m not your doctor, but chances are that you need more muscle (especially if you are 40+) and, contrary to general opinion, you don’t necessarily need to lose weight. To run a marathon, you’ll need energy, strength, muscle and a good mood. A carbo load before long runs or the marathon day is perfect, but don’t forget your protein, to keep and build muscle too, especially while training.

01 DON’T DRINK COFFEE

Avoid tea, coffee, drinks with caffeine like Coca-Cola or Red Bull (which in my opinion you should avoid anyway) and go to bed early. Best doping!

02 DRINK A LOT MORE WATER THAN USUAL

Start drinking like you were already racing –two days before; marathon day is too late. This will help you to avoid cramps and sidestitches. You will see many people at the end suffering because of this. And on marathon day, never skip a help station to drink.

2 days before marathon day

It’s the big day! You are full of enthusiasm and you’ll be surrounded by motivated runners starting quite fast. Stay cool.

01 DON’T START TOO FAST

The first 2 km are not the marathon. You don’t need to pass people or zig-zag; that will only make your marathon longer.

02 FOLLOW THE LINE

In most city marathons you’ll see a line in the middle of the road. That is the shortest way to finish. Avoid changing directions or moving from side to side all the time, or you will easily add 2–3 kms to your race. Forty-two are enough!

03 DON’T HAVE NEGATIVE THOUGHTS

Disclaimer: if you feel really bad, of course you will need to look for help. But in general, fatigue, small pains and discomforts will arise. A marathon is tough. Here’s what to do. Whatever happens to you, turn it into something positive. You have slight pain? Your body is healthy and telling you to change something. You forgot your gel? You’ll get two of them at

the next help station. And so on. Alternatively, just think neutral (assess the situation without judging it). But never let a negative thought in. Not one. At some point you’ll think: one more step, and I’ll die. But you’ll get to the finish line and you’ll jump for joy. That’s because your brain protects you and sends an alarm before you’re really in a difficult situation. On marathon day, you’ll find out that your body is capable of much more than you thought!

04 WELCOME 38 KM

The last 5 km are where it gets really hard. Welcome 38 km. Now you are a marathon runner. You paid for this. You prepared for this. Finally you know what it feels like. It’s a privilege. You will probably pass someone without even trying, at this point. Well done!

05 FAIR PLAY

You are competing and that’s great. During a marathon there are also a lot of people ready to intervene in case of need, so you don’t need to help anybody who feels bad. But do bear in mind that everybody is here to enjoy the experience. Do not cheat, obstruct, lack respect or take any short cuts. The world needs more sport, and even more marathon runners ... like you!

MY PERSONAL FAVOURITE SHOES AND NUTRITION, TRIED AND TESTED on.com and mnstry.com

Tadesse Abraham, who recently became the Swiss Marathon record holder, at age 41 (top left).

Being cheered by the sidelines is one of the greatest pleasures of running a marathon!

´I’M NOT AFRAID TO SPEAK MY MIND AND BE UPFRONT.´

Christian von Rechenberg received me at the stroke of 11 with a broad smile and a warm welcome. He was perfectly dressed, looking fresh and dapper. In an elegant navy blue wool suit – made to measure of course – worn with a spanking white shirt, pale blue tie and, as he pointed out, brand new shoes. My stylist’s eye picked up the silk pocket kerchief, white as snow and straight as a die, carefully folded in his breast pocket, adding the finishing touch. If first impressions count, Christian gets my vote.

We’d arranged for him to bring along a couple of personal items to the interview and what we didn’t expect was the leather jacket. He somewhat sheepishly produced a rather well-worn but well-preserved leather biker jacket, a relic of the 80’s and a reminder of his time in the USA. Particularly memorable for its survival in a crash they both survived on the streets of Zurich. ‘I would never part with it. It’s filled with memories.’

He also brought an elegant Dupont fountain pen of sentimental value, with which he writes welcome notes, thank you notes and the like; an exquisite IWC watch, the Portofino Chronograph, a wedding gift from his wife; and a sweet hand-painted thank you card from a youngster who had attended an information day at the hotel.

Christian’s outfit is always immaculate. Beautifully pressed shirts – reminiscent of The Great Gatsby, perhaps? ‘You always need to keep in mind that you’re here to create experiences!’

Time is of the essence! Christian keeps a close check on his busy schedule with his trusted, classic IWC watch.

WORDS CLIFFORD LILLEY

PHOTOS ELENA STENESS

´FOR MY OWN PERSONAL HAPPINESS, I LOVE TO GET AWAY INTO NATURE AND TO THE MOUNTAINS WITH MY FAMILY.´

Christian was born on the Upper East Side of New York to Swiss parents. Mom a teacher, dad a lawyer. The family moved back to Switzerland when Christian was just one year old and he grew up in Seefeld, a well-todo suburb in Zurich. After graduating from high school, he worked in a small hotel belonging to his uncle and after three weeks, he had discovered his passion for hospitality. On returning to Switzerland, he enrolled at the EHL, one of the most prestigious hotel business and management schools in the world.

His first internship was at the Baur au Lac, 20 years ago, followed by a second internship in New York. From then on, hotels would be his business, and luxury his byword. Today at 42 years old, Christian is the General Manager of the Baur au Lac.

I love being host, not only at work. Happiness for me is having friends and family round a large table for lunch and cooking a meal for them at our home, together with my wife. I love it when time flies by, and suddenly the afternoon has turned to evening, and everyone is hungry again, and we make a bowl of pasta and open another bottle of wine, and it gets later and later… I do love Italian food.

Happiness is also knowing that I go to work in a place that I love. It’s a privilege and a luxury that I’m extremely grateful for. For me, luxury is defined by quality. Something or an experience that is exclusive, highly desirable and often elusive. But beware, having too much of it could be a bad thing. It could lose its specialness.

As far as clothing goes, when I’m not at work, I like it nice and easy, comfortable, a pair of well-cut jeans and a T-shirt work best for me. Relaxed. That’s luxury too. Although I, too, like and appreciate great cars and a beautiful watch, the real luxury in life is the privilege of being in a position to inspire others and encourage them to give their best. It’s all about good relationships in a hotel, the people and communication. Success is when you see your guests are happy and taken good care of, when your staff are motivated and proud of their place of work.

For my own personal happiness, I love to get away into nature and to the mountains with my family. A perfect day for me would be to spend the morning skiing, the afternoon having fun with my family and the evening dining out – at the Golden Swan in New York for instance. I love New York, Hong Kong and London. And I love the Grisons – going to Val Lumnezia – a remote and favourite destination. It’s totally amazing there. If I were banished to a desert island, I’d take my music, a good knife for cooking, something to light a fire with and my faithful leather jacket of course.

Even with his sleeves rolled up … Christian is a genuine gentleman from top to toe. ‘I like to dress well, I always wear a tie … I rely on professionals like you, Clifford.’

suite talk

WORDS S. HOTTINGER-BEHMER

With its imposing neo-baroque architecture and sprawling, verdant gardens, the Palace, as it is known locally, has remained a sought-after destination for over 160 years for those seeking an indulgent experience in one of Switzerland’s most breathtaking settings. As you step through the grand entrance, you are immediately embraced by an atmosphere of sophistication, blending meticulous historical preservation with modern-day discernment, speaking volumes of a legacy that has hosted kings, queens, and luminaries alike.

Reimagined by interiors maestro Pierre-Yves Rochon, the luminous Riviera Suite is situated on a quiet corner of the Beau-Rivage wing, unveiling a masterclass in blending heritage charm with contemporary finesse. Marked by an interplay of light and texture, shadows from the grand trees outside waltz across the high ceilings and blond parquet floors, a performance mirrored in the delicate dance of light that plays across the walls, mirrors, and ceilings. The suite’s interiors draw on the natural splendour visible through its generous windows, with motifs and colours reflecting the serene blues of Lake Geneva and the vibrant greens of the hotel’s private park.

The modern traveller’s needs are met with nuance and foresight, where even the shower offers a sensory journey, with aromatic pods that can be inserted with scents such as Zen and Energetic Morning to match the mood of the day. The suite’s state-of-the-art amenities are matched only by the impeccable service that has become a signature of the Beau-Rivage Palace –a service that anticipates needs without intrusion.

One of only eight signature suites, the Riviera Suite is a testament to this grand-hotel’s enduring legacy of taste and refinement, an homage to the art de vivre that has long been its hallmark.

reasons to leave the suite:

1 – PIC

The first spot to visit is the newly renovated PIC restaurant of the world’s most Michelin-starred female chef, marking the 15-year partnership between the Palace and Anne-Sophie Pic. To offer an extraordinary culinary experience, the celebrated chef continues to passionately embrace Swiss regions and their artisans while remaining true to the uncompromising ingenuity that has long linked her cuisine to Gallic gastronomy.

2 – THE SPA GUERLAIN

Renovated in 2020, the Spa at Beau-Rivage is tucked away amidst lush greenery, encompassing 1,500 square metres of tranquillity. Its pièce de résistance is a patio, home to a tree of life whose soft, undulating light imbues vitality to those who wander beneath. Earlier this year, Guerlain unveiled a concept of unprecedented luxury on the vaunted grounds of the hotel, bringing forward a sense of chic that underscores the ultimate in well-being for mind, body, and soul.

3 – CHAPLIN’S WORLD

Once a cherished resident of the Palace, the spirit of Charlie Chaplin now finds a lasting tribute at Chaplin’s World at the Chaplin family’s former estate in Corsier-sur-Vevey. Here, within the manor’s stately walls and across the sprawling expanse of its park, visitors are invited on an intimate journey through Chaplin’s personal world while a stone’s throw away, a newly-added space celebrates the artistic genius of the iconic bowlerhatted figure.

culinary

As a chef, you take something away from every trip you go on. When I am in my kitchen in Ascona, I mainly want to work with the foods and products available in Ticino. The region has so much to offer and the number of exciting producers is constantly growing.

MARCO CAMPANELLA

Geschichten, Insights und Rezepte aus der Spitzengastronomie –jetzt zum Kennenlernpreis von CHF 33.– für 3 Ausgaben. (Ausland zzgl. Portokosten) Jetzt bestellen! www.marmite.ch/abo

a guest of mr sunshine

Marco Campanella combines cucumber with passion fruit and in doing so makes the best ravioli in Switzerland. A profile of a culinary artist whose forthright and curious nature is reflected in every one of his dishes.

WORDS ALEX KUEHN

His culinary creations are always filled to the brim with sunshine. Even in the depths of winter, Marco Campanella whips up dishes that are so fresh and full of life as if nature were in full bloom outside. However, there is no season that suits the colourful yet refined and straightforward cuisine served up by a chef with two Michelin stars and 1 8 Gault Millau points more than the summer. When the skins of tomatoes turn red and delicate yellow flowers appear on cucumber plants, there is no better place for gourmets to be than on the terrace of La Brezza in the Eden Roc hotel in Ascona.

Campanella’s amuse-bouches are as eyecatching as the craftsmanship of a goldsmith, while their captivating aromas, textures and temperatures prime the senses for the delights to follow in the next few hours. These include langoustine with pumpkin and sea buckthorn, Ennetbürgen beef served with kohlrabi, eel and sherry, as well as turbot with fennel, mussels and quinoa. One of the classic dishes served in La Brezza is the tomato tatar with ricotta salata, basil and pine nuts. At first glance, it is simple in appearance, but impressively underlines the 32-year-old chef’s understanding of how to bring to the fore the natural flavour of a product and highlight this with a few clever complementary notes.

For example, Campanella repeatedly utilises tomatoes – which find ideal growing conditions in Ticino – and cucumbers as the main stars of his culinary creations. ‘I love their freshness and versatility,’ he says. ‘Cucumber juice refined with dill, pepper, sugar, salt and a glug of vinegar provides a wonderful platform for a large number of dishes. When you work with cucumbers, you need to make sure that their characteristic flavour and freshness are not overwhelmed by too much acidity.’ Sometimes, Campanella transforms cucumbers into a sorbet or pearls; other times, he stews them or grills them on his Big Green Egg. ‘When the aromas of cucumber and smoke come together, this creates an extremely delightful flavour profile,’ explains the top chef.

Marco Campanella handles fish with such finesse, yet he also has a deep love for vegan dishes – such as the combination of bell peppers, eggplant, and black garlic (below).

At La Brezza, Campanella has already paired cucumber together with seared langoustines and sour cream, as well as with pickled mackerel and passion fruit. Passion fruit? ‘Yes, they go together excellently. Another interesting ingredient that complements cucumbers is kalamansi. The citrus fruit is similar to a mandarin and like the passion fruit its firm acidity is balanced by its sweet flavour.’ One of Campanella’s formative culinary memories also featured cucumbers, more precisely cocomero pugliese –a type of cucumber that is typically grown in Puglia and looks like a small melon. ‘Whenever I went to the beach with my grandmother, she always packed cocomero for us. We have kept this tradition alive and always enjoy the refreshing and slightly sweet flavour of this cucumber like small children,’ explains Campanella. With a little bit of luck, cocomero pugliese will also be served to guests at La Brezza – fresh when it is in season and preserved when not.

When he is not slaving over a hot stove or looking after his one-and-a-half year-old daughter Enola at home, Marco Campanella loves exploring the world. ‘My wife Sarah and I fulfilled a dream last autumn and travelled to Japan. And it wasn’t just for the food, we are also really interested in the country’s eventful history and the architecture,’ he states. The fact that it didn’t take long for little Enola to want nothing more to do with the jars of baby food they brought with them and happily ate ramen and Wagyu beef naturally filled her father with great joy. Who knows, perhaps the family’s gastronomic tradition (his parents ran a restaurant at Lake Constance and his brother Tommaso manages three establishments in Ticino) will be passed on to the next generation. And did Campanella gain any inspiration from his time in Japan for La Brezza? ‘As a chef, you take something away from every trip you go on,’ he says. ‘But, I am more interested in the techniques than the ingredients. Ultimately, when I am in my kitchen in Ascona, I mainly want to work with the foods and products available in Ticino. The region has so much to offer and the number of exciting producers is constantly growing.’

In the summer, the former Caminada apprentice Campanella cooks at the Eden Roc in Ascona, while in winter, he can be found at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa (below).

A visit to Marco Campanella is not complete without enjoying a plate of pasta. His ravioli, in particular, are famous far and wide and are an absolute hit at every food festival he attends as a guest chef. If you have ever tasted his parmesan ravioli covered with a nut butter foam, you will never forget the rounded flavour that feels like a warm embrace. Chefs constantly stress that there is no such thing as perfection in their job, however Campanella’s ravioli comes mightily close.

Gault Millau named it the best vegan menu in Switzerland.

Since 2020, the head chef at La Brezza has also been offering a 100% plant-based menu in addition to his Inspirazione menu. This vegan offering features creations comprising kohlrabi, pistachio and dill as well as cauliflower, pickled lemon and almond, and is based on the Moving Mountains philosophy of the Tschuggen Collection. Moving Mountains promotes a cuisine that is influenced equally by our natural surroundings and by nutritional science, and attaches great value to nutrient density without having to make compromises in the food you enjoy. The excellent reception the Moving Mountains menu has enjoyed among guests and critics (Gault Millau named it the best vegan menu in Switzerland) can be attributed to one of the talented chef’s most remarkable attributes – his inquisitiveness. Driven by a thirst for knowledge, he immerses himself deeper and deeper into a culinary world that some of his peers continue to disregard.

Speaking of his thirst for knowledge, during his time working alongside Andreas Caminada at Schloss Schauenstein, Campanella always carried a small notebook on his person so that he could jot down everything he found to be valuable. ‘At the end of a shift, I often pestered the boss with questions and I am to this day grateful that he always took the time to answer them for me,’ he remembers. Today, Marco Campanella is himself a mentor for the (even) younger generation. And who knows, maybe he will follow in Caminada’s footsteps and one day join the ranks of those world-class chefs to have earned three Michelin stars. With his talent, his excellent craftsmanship and his qualities as a team player, which he developed as an ambitious footballer and a member of the squad for the German under-1 6s national football team, it would not come as a surprise if he did.

Making carrots the star of a 2-star dish? No problem for Marco Campanella!

Ristorante da Enzo

What could be better than spending a cosy summer evening sat on the terrace of Da Enzo and enjoying a plate of gnocchi, an outstanding raviolo, a cutlet of veal or a whole turbot fresh from the oven? The location is simply magical and the hospitality shown by the restaurant’s namesake Enzo Andreatta and his son Sergio is unrivalled. Here, I feel like I’m at home.

Via ai Grotti 49 6652 Ponte Brolla ristorantedaenzo.ch

Tegna beach

There’s nothing more refreshing than jumping into the crystal clear waters of the Maggia. One of the most beautiful bathing areas can be found in Tegna, where you can easily make your way into the refreshing water by crossing a small sandy beach. The huge rocks dotted along the river are a perfect place to sunbathe afterwards.

Osteria Ticino by Ketty & Tommy

Tommy is my brother and Ketty is my sister-in-law. Their down-to-earth family restaurant with a large garden also makes it onto my list of favourite places to visit.

CHEF’S FAVOURITES

In addition to two-dozen different types of pizza, including some of their own creations like the ‘Calzone Ticinese’ featuring smoked mozzarella, gorgonzola, mushrooms and luganighetta sausage from the region, guests can also choose from a tasting menu as well as an extensive à la carte offering that includes dishes such as buckwheat tortelloni and fillet steak served with caramelised onions.

Via Muraccio 20 6612 Ascona osteria-ticino.ch

Osteria Borei

The small yet friendly restaurant in the hills overlooking Brissago provides the best view of Lake Maggiore. The menu is small, but everything on it is sure to make you happy. Some of my favourite dishes include the homemade ravioli, the porcini risotto and the braised beef.

Via Ghiridone 77 6614 Brissago osteriaborei.ch

La Casera

When you walk into this wonderful gourmet establishment with its ‘Bottega’ and ‘Osteria’, the first things you will see are the splendid hams dangling from the

ceiling. You can also get top-class salami, coppa and mortadella here, and of course expertly matured cheeses. We regularly come here as a team and enjoy a cold platter of meats and cheeses together with a good bottle of wine or franciacorta.

Piazza Daniele Ranzoni 19 28921 Verbania (Italy) formaggidieros.it

Giardino Lago

When I go out for a walk with my wife and daughter, we like to stop off at the Giardino Lago hotel in Minusio. Here, Executive Chef Francesco Leoni conjures up outstanding Mediterranean-inspired cuisine – and you always feel like you are among friends.

Via alla Riva 83a 6648 Minusio giardinohotels.ch

Ponte dei Salti

Close to the little village of Lavertezzo, there is a doublearched stone bridge dating back to the 17th century that stands over the Verzasca river. From the bridge, you can either enjoy the views of the river and the valley or jump into the ice-cold water in the summer. This for me is the perfect balance of refreshment and a real thrill.

Do not mistake them for tomatoes. These Rossa di

aubergines may be the tastiest you’ll ever try.

Rotonda

A PERFECT BALANCE

WORDS & PHOTO

At first glance, you could mistake one for a tomato, as they are of a similar size and round in shape. They are also bright orange to red in colouring and bear green stripes. However, what you would actually be looking at is an aubergine. More specifically, the unique Melanzana Rossa di Rotonda DOP. This is a variant of the Solanum aethiopicum, which is native to Ethiopia. It was brought to Italy at the end of the 19th century and once there developed a unique taste profile. It is grown in the Basilicata region and has a protected designation of origin. Similar variants include the Turkish orange as well as the Rosso di Napoli , which can be found in Switzerland.

These aubergines have an intensely fruity taste and strike a balance between a sweet and bitter flavour. In Italy, they are prepared and served in a variety of ways, such as raw, as carpaccio, and marinated with olive oil and lemon juice. They can also be steamed, baked, roasted, and preserved for pasta, fish and meat. Another way in which they can be used is combined with dark chocolate and served as a dessert.

My favourite way of serving them takes inspiration from Japanese cuisine and is as follows: heat some sesame oil in a pan, add the roughly chopped aubergines and fry on a medium heat for five minutes, until they brown slightly. Add garlic and ginger and sauté for two minutes. Deglaze with rice wine, add soy sauce, rice vinegar, dashi (or broth) and a pinch of cane sugar, cover and leave to stew gently on a low heat for around 30 minutes.

Serve lukewarm or, even better, let them cool completely and season with more vinegar (I think they should have the same acidity as pickled vegetables). Portion out the aubergine and the delicious stock in small rice bowls, garnish with spring onions and serve as a starter or a side dish. Wow, so much umami! As well as being a perfect balance between gentle sweetness, saltiness, acidity and bitterness. The dish is easy to prepare and can be stored in the fridge for up to two days.

the selection of genevan wines

WORDS PETER KELLER

A journey of discovery through the world of Genevan wines is worth your while, as both the selection of grape varieties and the vintages pressed from these are wide-ranging and unrivalled. Within Switzerland, only the region of Valais has a line-up of grape varieties that is similar in size. Geneva boasts a wine-growing area measuring 1,400 hectares, with 56% of this land dedicated to the growing of red varieties. Gamay, Pinot noir and Gamaret are the most popular. Thanks to a hunger for innovation and a large measure of dynamism, the winemakers in Geneva diversified the varieties they grow a long time ago. It therefore comes as no surprise that speciality grapes such as Malbec, Syrah and the new Divico variety can be found in the vineyards on the French border. The same also applies for white grapes and wines. Besides the ubiquitous Chasselas –which is one of the first wines that springs to mind when you think of Swiss wine – Genevan wine producers also grow Sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc, Aligoté, Viognier and many other varieties. The centre of Geneva’s wine-growing sector can be found in Satigny, the largest wine-growing municipality in French-speaking Switzerland.

Genevan wine is considered to be worthy of discovery and as one of Switzerland’s bestkept secrets. This is mainly down to the fact that the locals enjoy most of the wine produced in the region themselves. As a result, the wines are unfortunately not afforded a great deal of prestige outside their home region. The benefit of this is that the prices of the wines remain moderate – except for a couple of outliers.

One of the star vintners in Geneva is JeanPierre Pellegrin. The winemaker renovated the 600-year-old Domaine Grand’Cour in Satigny as well as its cellar himself. He also totally transformed the vineyard’s business strategy. His father had remained true to the tradition of

The Surprising Drop

EVOLUTION, DOMAINE DE LA DEVINIÈRE –––– 2021

A typical and excellent Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, barrel-aged with a complex bouquet, notes of cassis and floral hints, moderate on the palate, mature, ever-present tannins, structured, great depth, a long finish, huge potential, pressed by the talented young vintner Camille Cretegny. CHF 33 | la-deviniere.ch

The Exotic Drop

CHENIN BLANC, DOMAINE DE BEAUVENT –––– 2022

A Genevan speciality, very successful, a bouquet of yellow fruits, spicy honey notes, dry, medium-bodied, good acidity, a magnificent structure, a salty finish, matured in steel tanks. CHF 16.50 | domainedebeauvent.com

The Aromatic Drop

SAUVIGNON BLANC BARRIQUE, DOMAINE LES HUTINS –––– 2022

A white wine typical of this variety from this firstclass winery, aromatic in the nose, exotic fruits, roasted notes, dry, robust, good acidity, complex, elegant, a good length, a good white wine with a great deal of potential for storage. Barrel-aged, a wine listed in the Mémoire des Vins Suisses.

CHF 25 | domaineleshutins.ch

The Elegant Drop

PINOT NOIR P, DOMAINE GRAND’COUR, JEAN-PIERRE PELLEGRIN –––– 2020

A complex, first-class Pinot noir full of finesse with a multilayered bouquet of red berries, mint and spicy notes, fine tannins, good acidity, juicy, tight, a long finish and great potential

CHF 57 | gerstl.ch

The Simple Drop

CHÂTEAU ROUGE, CHÂTEAU DU CREST –––– 2022

An unusual cuvée of Garamet and Pinot noir, fruity in the nose and on the palate, full-bodied, soft tannins, elegant, well-balanced, complex, ready to drink now and could potentially be stored for four or five years.

CHF 15 | domaineducrest.ch

supplying the cooperative with the grapes he grew, but Pellegrin wanted to move away from doing this. Today, he offers a wide range of first-class wines. On a plot of land measuring 25 hectares, the producer grows no fewer than 25 grape varieties. This is probably a recordbreaking feat.

Jean-Michel Novelle is one of the avantgardists of the wine-growing region. At his Le Grand Clos estate in Satigny, there is a huge emphasis on biodiversity and all of his work is done by hand. On just seven hectares, some 38 wines are produced from 17 varieties of grape. His trademark is unusual cuvées and wines, such as a novel combination of the two white varieties Petit Marseng and Petite Arvine.

In addition to the two flagship operations, there are many more wine producers making their mark and creating excellent wines, for example the Domaine du Paradis, the La Devinière estate and the Domaine Les Hutins, which is a member of the Mémoire des Vins Suisses with its Sauvignon Blanc. The winemakers association comprises more than 60 first-class estates from all six growing regions within Switzerland. The aim of the association is to promote the maturity and ageing potential of Swiss wines. A large proportion of Swiss wines are still being drunk too soon. The largest wine-producing operation in Geneva is the Cave de Genève. Some 30 vintners supply their grapes to the cooperative.

To demonstrate the diverse selection of wines produced in the French-speaking canton, we have chosen six stylistically different wines from six different grape varieties. It is almost a selection you could call ‘Geneva's Best’.

The Spicy Drop

ICONIQUE SYRAH, JEAN-MICHEL NOVELLE –––– 2019

A very successful Syrah with an intensive colour, notes of dark fruits, pepper and herbs, strong on the palate, compact, ripe tannins, a good structure with a delightful long finish, and can be kept for 15 to 20 years.

CHF 40 | novelle.wine

spoilt for choice

There is no better guide for gourmets in southern Switzerland than Dany Stauffacher. We had the pleasure of accompanying the founder and CEO of the Sapori Ticino culinary festival on an enjoyable tour of his home region and not only pass on his enthusiasm for the restaurants presented here, but also a message that was very important to him: ‘When I’m asked for restaurant tips, I always have the same problem: I’m spoilt for choice. There’s so much on offer now in Ticino that for every restaurant I recommend, I have to leave out dozens of others that are just as deserving.’

WORDS ALEX KUEHN

osteria cuntitt

An estate lovingly renovated in a Lombard style provides a platform for one of the most sensual chefs in Switzerland to demonstrate his skills. His name: Federico Palladino. His accolades include a star in the Michelin Guide as well as 16 points and the title of Aufsteiger des Jahres 2024 (Up-and-comer of the year 2024 ) from Gault Millau. Palladino, who also cooks for the after-school care facility next to his restaurant, combines the quality consciousness and finesse of haute cuisine with the feel-good factor of an Italian mama’s kitchen. For example, his signature dish is spaghettoni with smoked Gotthard butter, burnt Amalfi lemon and gilt-head bream sashimi. The pasta comes from Massimo Mancini, the only producer in Italy who grows the durum wheat used in his products himself, as Palladino knows that there should also be no compromises when shopping for ingredients. The egg pasta is, of course, home made – and extremely popular. Leading the way in the popularity stakes is the bottoni with its different seasonal fillings, closely followed by the taglioni which contains 30 egg yolks per kilo of pasta. It would be too boring for Palladino if all he did was act as a steward of the culinary heritage of his Italian homeland. Instead, he takes the grand classics of Italian cuisine and turns them upside

down and inside out, albeit without corrupting their heart and soul. We were blown away by his interpretation of vitello tonnato, comprising a piece of braised veal tongue with a robust jus, carne cruda made from veal fillet, a tuna foam and pickled caper leaves. Palladino is also masterful in his preparation of poultry, roasting quail and pigeon breast to a perfect pink colour and adding a glaze made from locally sourced honey. At the magical Osteria Cuntitt, coffee is something that is not only made in a machine, it is also used to make a mousse that forms the basis of a wonderful dessert together with salted caramel, caramel brittle and milk glacé. Fantastico!

Crunchy peas with delicate sweetness and tantalisingly sharp horseradish accompany a lake char in Federico Palladino’s creation.

©

Left page: Adrian Ehrbar Photography

Entering Marco Badalucci’s small kingdom in the Cassarate district of Lugano will see you embark on a culinary journey to Southern Italy. Hailing from the island of Procida, the chef celebrates a multi-faceted yet straightforward cuisine that is focused on first-class ingredients from the sea and would also cause a huge stir in his home region. Gault Millau has awarded Badalucci’s elegant and stimulating Italianità 1 6 points, and the Michelin Guide is likely to reward him with a star soon. The restaurant, which was formerly home to a boutique owned by British Royal and society jeweller Andrew Grima, exudes more the charm of a dignified private residence than the atmosphere of a traditional restaurant. This is complemented by the cheerful, friendly waiting staff who present the culinary creations to their guests with a great deal of pride and wit. Spaghetti is sometimes served cold here, together with sea bass crudo and caviar. Sea bass is also one of the ingredients used to create a hearty mille-feuille together with foie gras, baby artichokes and a balsamic reduction. The head chef demonstrates his ingenuity – as well as his skilled

craftsmanship – with his tortelli, which look quite normal from the outside, but have a seafood filling in lieu of the more traditional flavours. A Mediterranean twist on the traditional Tortellini in brodo! With an Americano grape risotto with bergamot and scallops, Badalucci serves up a delicious combination of flavours from his Southern Italian homeland and Ticino. The sweet desserts at this wonderful restaurant showcase the chef’s creative skills while remaining true to the traditions of Italian cuisine. The best example of this is the refreshing reinterpretation of the cassata that is sure to put a smile on your face.

badalucci taste of art

Risotto with a twist: Marco Badalucci opts for wild garlic, snails, and wildflowers as ingredients.

la veranda

Hardly any other place in Lugano offers such a magnificent view of the lake and mountains as the Ristorante La Veranda in the Hotel Splendide Royal. But the view is by no means the only reason to take a seat in the dining room with its long window front or on the outdoor terrace. Guests can look forward to wonderful classic cuisine with an Italian soul – and to the purist signature of the new Executive Chef Marco Veneruso, who took over from Domenico Ruberto in February. Veneruso, who grew up in the Naples area and has spent the last four years setting culinary standards at the Four Seasons Hotel in Prague, opens the menu in a fresh and lively manner: with a roll of pikeperch, char and Lake Ceresio trout in brine, on which the same three types of eggs are wrapped. They are served with a wonderfully light sauce with buttermilk and bright green herb oil that is not only visually appealing.

The new Executive Chef Marco Veneruso plays virtuously on the keyboard of Italian cuisine at Splendide Royal.

Veneruso’s

The menu continues with artfully rolled up spaghetti topped with raw scampi flavoured with lemon zest and chives. The warmth of the pasta gives the slightly sweet meat of the crustaceans just the right temperature, and we are once again amazed at how simple great culinary happiness can be. The main course is a little excursion into French cuisine: perfectly fried sole, only removed from the bone at the table, with a rich beurre blanc, to which a portion of caviar adds the finishing touch. A spoonful of fluffy mashed potato and a small vegetable bouquet is all you need to go with it. For our next visit, we have made a mental note to try the catch of the day in a salt crust and the tortellini with braised black pork in a mushroom broth with Ticino herbs. For a sweet finish, there is no way around the sponge cake soaked in coffee and Nocino with mascarpone mousse, coffee and vanilla cream. It’s a kind of tiramisu 2.0 – and worth every sinful calorie.

tortellini is filled with meat from the black pig. The plate is topped with a clear mushroom essence.

CHAMPAGNE MON AMOUR

WORDS DAN ROZNOV

PHOTOS DAN ROZNOV & MATHIEU BONNEVIE

Chardonnay accounts for 31% of all grapes in Champagne and it grows particularly well on its chalky terroir. It is championed for elegant, fragrant wines bursting with floral, citrus and tasty mineral notes.

Champagne is one of the world’s strictest regulated wine regions. By law, all grapes have to be harvested by hand. Also, each bottle has to age at least 15 months on the lees. The long contact with yeasts during the second fermentation in the bottle gives champagne its famous brioche-like flavours.

he annual harvest in late summer is always the most beautiful time for me to visit the French region of Champagne. Driving through its picturesque landscape of gentle hills, one can see thousands of people scattered across its vineyards, picking grapes, carrying buckets, pushing wheelbarrows and loading trucks with the precious juicy fruits. Their sweaty faces radiating with both excitement and tension, you can feel the electricity in the air. From the distance they look like coloured dots hopping around a vine-leafed jungle, reminding me of PacMan munching dots.

But this is no game, this is serious business with lots of money on the line: 300 million bottles of champagne were shipped in 2023 alone. Imagine having to put the fate of a multibillion-dollar industry in the lunatic hands of the weather gods, year in, year out. Especially if you are located way up north with around 10 °C average annual temperatures and rough climatic conditions, which make it hard for grapes to fully ripen. God knows what inspired Benedictine monks to produce wine here in late medieval times.

In the early 18th century, monk Dom Thierry Ruinart inspired his nephew Nicolas Ruinart, an enterprising textile merchant, to offer the tasty local sparkling wines as a courtesy to his wealthy Paris fashion clients. Demand soared quickly, so he switched businesses and founded Maison Ruinart in 1729, making it the first officially established champagne house. Many others followed his daring example, and the rest is history.

Over the course of the next three centuries, winemakers in this mystical region with a remarkably chalky terroir, cultivated its sparkling wines through refinement of techniques and workflows, that are unmatched in the wine world. One of them is to blend different grape

varieties from multiple villages and vintages; another to press grapes very slowly, so the juice runs as clear as possible. And they established strict laws in the name of quality: such as having to put away 15 % of all annual pressings and storing it as a reserve for bad times; and harvesting only by hand, which is crazy for an area of 33,000 hectares.

The Champenois steadily boosted their savoir-faire with many innovations, while adapting to some grim historical circumstances – the French Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars – not just to survive, but to thrive. And to elevate their product into an art form, that is a symbol of victory and celebration, and quite possibly the sexiest wine on earth, having that certain je ne sais quoi. As Madame de Pompadour once said so eloquently: ‘Champagne is the only drink that enhances a woman’s beauty.’

Equally, sunshine and heat enhance the beauty of grape juice, but if the sun burns too strongly, it becomes a threat and harms the delicate grapes; the result is lack of freshness or even worse, the grapes turn rotten. Welcome to the age of global warming, where the region’s average temperature has risen by over 1.3°C in the last 30 years.

‘The climatic conditions of a year play a major role in the elaboration of top champagnes, so the quickly changing climate pushes us to reinvent ourselves’, says Frédéric Panaïotis. Ruinart’s Chef de Caves is one of the region’s most celebrated winemakers, and works at the forefront of modern wine making. He and his teams curate the taste and style of Ruinart’s champagnes, supervising the entire production journey from vineyard to cellar. In the words of their marketing department: they are dedicated to (re)think and (re)craft.

He elaborates, ‘The pace of climate change is a huge challenge for our vineyards; at a few of them, we initiated public projects in favour of biodiversity, that spark curiosity and attract other wine growers who want to learn about it. It allows us to share our expertise in viticulture and push the conversation forward. After all, sustainability is a team sport.’

Ruinart’s sustainability efforts don’t stop there: its eco-designed Second Skin packaging reduced its carbon footprint by 60%, and stylishly wraps around its flagship Blanc de Blancs, arguably the world’s most popular champagne made from 100 % Chardonnay. It tastes crisp yet smooth, and I love its aromatic freshness bursting with juicy pear, white peach and gingered citrus. I call it the soulmate of seafood because the two pair so well.

While that Blanc de Blancs is all about consistency, Ruinart has now released a new one called Blanc Singulier, which reflects a year’s particular moods of nature, and is a witness to the evolution of climate. The first release is based on 2018 and has no dosage; yet it tastes round and charming, with notes of fresh white fruit, candied citrus and floral spices. A contemporary champagne reflecting the signs of our times. Liquid zeitgeist, you know.

Its third and top Blanc de Blancs is the Prestige Cuvée Dom Ruinart and represents the pinnacle of Panaïotis’ craft: a true masterpiece with its deeply chalky, elegant richness. Its upcoming release is 2013, which I believe is the most electric yet, and it was aged in the beautiful crayères – the ancient white chalk cellars are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and open to the public. A must-visit when in the region; just don’t forget your cashmere sweater, as it is chilly down there.

As if these cellars weren’t magnificent enough, Ruinart decorated them with specially commissioned contemporary art. Ruinart is famed for its art engagement, particularly the Carte Blanche programme – an annual art collaboration showcased at major art fairs such as Art Basel and Frieze, and its 2024 edition Conversations with Nature highlights the maison’s ongoing dialogue with nature in the Champagne region.

After a week-long trip to Champagne and my sixth harvest, it is time to drive home – or better – glide home. Because that is how smooth long-distance travel in the fully electric Audi SQ8 e-tron feels. I can’t help but admire its quietly intelligent driving experience, its navigation also guiding us to high-speed charging stations along the way. Like Ruinart, Audi is heading tastefully into the future, planning to introduce only fully electric models from 2026 onwards.

As we cross the border into Switzerland, we decide to round off our trip with a cheeky stopover at the legendary Hotel Les Trois Rois in Basel. It is a lighthouse of deluxe hospitality and knows how to infuse fantastic service with human warmth, perfectly demonstrated by its charismatic General Manager, Philippe D Clarinval. We treat ourselves to a night in its wonderful River Junior Suite, and a delicious dinner at the in-house brasserie, enjoying our schnitzel and seafood risotto paired with a bottle of Dom Ruinart 2010. Here’s to a tasteful future. Santé!

When driving to Champagne, the author suggests a fully electric Audi Q8 e-tron for a smooth drive in style.

Riddling is an age-old process that involves rotating the bottle in small increments while gradually tilting until it is neck-down. The sediment slides down to the bottle neck before the bottle is disgorged, resulting in a crystal-clear wine.

geneva’s dreams

WORDS & PHOTOS

& TIM STENESS

With a stunning rooftop terrace offering breathtaking views of the lake, an impressive wine list and an elegant, minimalist interior, the Izumi has everything for the international jet set. The restaurant’s two evening sittings, each hosted by Executive Chef Toshikazu Kato, take guests on a journey that fuses tradition and innovation, seamlessly combining time-honoured Japanese traditions with cuttingedge techniques and creative approaches to food presentation. The perfectly seasoned tuna tartare is served on a bed of crispy rice cubes, or perhaps try the thinly sliced seabream, accompanied by a delicately tangy yuzu soy sauce. Then there’s the sea bass sashimi with Peruvian sauce, a truly trendy delight.

ELENA

Colour Up your mood by having a dash of wasabi colours on your plate.

of sushi

The nigiri and maki rolls are likewise a real revelation for sushi devotees. Crafted from the finest fish and hand-picked ingredients, they are lovingly wrapped in seasoned rice and nori seaweed as meat, seafood and vegetables sizzle. Each dish, such as the succulent miso-marinated black cod, is a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to quality and flavours.

The restaurant also offers a range of original side dishes, such as the amazing soba noodles with matcha, that pair perfectly with the fish and meat options.

A dream of earth and sea. Take your sushi seriously and bed it on a green salad.

‘It’s like I am: authentic Japanese. I love that,’ says Toshikazu Kato, riffing on the technique that puts

on the

Geneva.

Nikkei cuisine

menu of Izumi at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues

toshikazu kato

Assisting Kato is the restaurant itself. ‘Izumi has an energy all of its own’ claims Kato, who was appointed in 2022 and leads a team of a dozen, most of them hailing from Europe and all skilled in Japanese cuisine. Geography doesn’t matter much because sushi is popular all over the map, he says. As Executive Chef, Kato leads the operation through inspiration and his own exacting technique, crafting dishes that utilise Peruvian ingredients and providing an impressive selection of rolls and nigiri.

He takes a farm-to-table and sustainable approach to every part of the menu, sourcing as many local ingredients as possible. While scoring freshwater fish in a landlocked country can be a challenge, Switzerland offers a broad selection of seasonal products, and Kato elevates local varieties of perch. He also sources beef and lamb from a farmer, whose ranch he has visited outside of Geneva, to complement Izumi’s wagyu, which Kato imports directly from Japan.

Growing up in the Kantō region of Honshu, a stone’s throw from Tokyo, Kato was inspired to cook by his uncle, who ran an izakaya. Kato

started working there part-time as a teenager and was drawn to ‘the atmosphere and intensity,’ despite his parents’ strong desire that he pursue another line of work. ‘That was 25 years ago. Chefs didn’t get the same level of respect back then.’

Even before he’d left school, Kato’s grandmother told him about a Four Seasons in Tokyo – the company’s first address in Asia, no less. ‘I had no idea what it would be like, so I went to dine there first. I was blown away,’ Kato recalls.

After starting out in Tokyo, Kato has moved on to other Four Seasons around the world. His first assignment in Mumbai was a ‘culture shock,’ he remembers. ‘Everything was new and different, and I didn’t speak English. I cried every day.’ But the Hotel’s Executive Chef, who hailed from Italy, encouraged him to give it time. ‘He opened my eyes. Six months later, I loved India.’ Kato followed up his spell in Mumbai with stints in Doha and St. Petersburg.

‘I used to surf near Tokyo, so I really want to ski in Switzerland now. I’ve been cooking in a hot climate for 15 years, so sooner rather than later. I hope.’

INGREDIENTS

Mix all ingredients and keep overnight

40 g

Sushi rice (put into mould to make 20 g square of each)

Ume salsa

Shiso vinegar

Shiso leaf

Red onion brunoise

Large red chili brunoise

Grape seed oil

Lime juice

Tabasco

Neri ume plum paste

To serve

a little

2 g

30 g

king crab, crispy rice green tea chasoba, vegetable tempura

Coriander cress

Green jalapeno brunoise

Cooked king crab meat

Chopped chives

Extra virgin olive oil

PREPARATION

Deep fry sushi rice at 180 degrees, wait until turns golden colour.

Cut into half. Put king crab meat on top of the rice, add ume salsa, jalapeno and coriander cress as garnish.

INGREDIENTS

50 g

Chasoba

Coriander oil

Shichimi togarashi chili powder

Coriander leaves

Sliced spring onion

Tempura batter

Vegetables for tempura (sliced onion, sliced aubergine, sliced carrot)

80 ml

10 ml 5 ml

Dashi fish stock

Soy sauce

Mirin

PREPARATION

Cook chasoba in boiling water for 5 minutes then wash in cold water and strain. Deep fry vegetables with tempura batter at 170 degrees. Mix all ingredients for sauce into small pot and bring to the boil. Place soba in the bowl and cover with hot soba sauce. Add garnish (coriander leaves, shichimi powder, coriander oil, spring onion). Tempura to be served on the side.

paris brest matcha

01 CHOUX BUN

03

02 MATCHA CUSTARD

04

SORBET

05

PREPARATION

Make the choux pastry and cool with a mixer at low speed, then add the matcha powder. Pipe and sprinkle slivered almonds on top. Bake for 34 minutes at 180°C. 06

WE CAN‘T AFFORD TO DO WITHOUT THE GOOD.

WE CAN‘T AFFORD TO DO WITHOUT THE GOOD.

THE VOICE OF MODERN LUXURY

THE VOICE OF MODERN LUXURY

highlights

Although not a member of any sports clubs, Oskar isn’t averse to physical exercise. He likes to chase balls, squirrels and cats and is the vice European champion at tree-stump gnawing.

If stealing cheese and devouring bread were Olympic disciplines, Oskar would clearly be one of the world’s elite.

So it’s no wonder that the exercise-loving Labrador feels right at home in Lausanne, the capital of the Olympic movement.

TITUS ARNU

Freestyle swimming: Oskar practises his front crawl in the crystal-clear waters of Lake Geneva.

AND OSKAR GOES TO

LAUSANNE

Faster, higher, stronger: visiting the Lausanne Palace, over whose entrances hangs a flag with the Olympic rings, with a muscular Labrador. The hotel is a dream destination for all dogs, from the sporty to the pleasure-oriented. Fortunately, chocolate, cheese and wine doping for the master is legal here.

On your marks, get set, go! On command, Oskar sprints along the athletics track as if he were Usain Bolt with four very hairy legs. Some visitors to the Parc Olympique, a beautiful 8 ,000 square metre park on the shores of Lake Geneva with sculptures on the theme of sport, watch the dog’s explosive start as he races towards his master like a black lightning bolt. Oskar doesn’t set a world record. Instead of a gold medal, he only gets a tiny treat as a reward.

From a Labrador Retriever’s point of view, however, the short sprint in the Olympic park is still a great sporting event. The athletic dog also passes the other disciplines – such as posing on the podium with the Olympic motto citius, altius, fortius (higher, faster, further), high-jumping onto a bench, balancing on the edge of a fountain, peeing on an Olympic bush and retrieving a stick on the Olympic lawn – with flying colours. Then comes his favourite discipline: front crawl in open water. Oskar races towards the shore of Lake Geneva at full speed, jumps into the waves – and has an enjoyable swim between ducks and buoys, grunting with pleasure.

WORDS TITUS ARNU PHOTOS ENNO KAPITZA

Isabelle von Burg, General Manager of the Lausanne Palace, with Oskar in front of the main entrance.

After this special heptathlon, Oskar is soaking wet, tired and hungry. Actually, Labradors are always hungry. This is allegedly due to a genetic mutation, scientists have discovered. Possibly, but with Oskar it’s mainly because he’s a very active, sporty guy. People who impertinently describe the 33-kilo dog as slightly overweight or even as flabby are met with the following retort from his master: No, we are not fat! At most, powerfully built. Muscular! Strong! But definitely not fat.

Although not a member of any sports clubs, Oskar isn’t averse to physical exercise. He likes to chase balls, squirrels and cats and is the vice European champion at tree-stump gnawing. If stealing cheese and devouring bread were Olympic disciplines, Oskar would clearly be one of the world’s elite. So it’s no wonder that the exercise-loving Labrador feels right at home in Lausanne, the capital of the Olympic movement. There are numerous opportunities to exercise here: tennis, swimming, golf, water skiing, windsurfing, horse riding and skiing – the slopes are only 45 minutes away. There are boules courts, running routes, hiking and cycling trails, tennis courts and football pitches on the shores of the lake. And plenty of areas for dogs to exercise: parks and avenues of old trees, extensive green spaces, hills and mountains, sandy and pebble beaches. What’s more, the air is full of the delicious smell of cheese, meat, bread and chocolate everywhere!

After checking in at the Lausanne Palace, Oskar would love to sneak straight to the breakfast buffet and help himself – after all, he’s lost a lot of calories doing competitive sport – but of course that’s not appropriate in a five-star hotel. Oskar obediently pads up to the room on the fifth floor on his lead. Two bowls are already waiting there, on a white cloth embroidered with Oskar’s name. The dog immediately smells that the friendly hotel staff have put out a bag of treats. From his point of view, this is a much better reward than a paper winner’s certificate or a medal made of precious metal. The latter isn’t even edible!

The reception staff wear the five Olympic rings as pins on their lapels, and historic Olympic posters hang on the walls. Olympic symbols, pictures of athletes and Olympic officials are omnipresent in the Lausanne Palace. The hotel regularly hosts delegations from all over the world travelling to Switzerland for IOC meetings. One of the hotel’s most luxurious suites bears the name of the former President of the International Olympic Committee, Juan Antonio Samaranch, who spent a lot of time as a guest at the Lausanne Palace.

From the Samaranch Suite on the fifth floor, you can see across the city and Lake Geneva to the snowcapped Alpine peaks. The 100 -m 2 suite is decorated with Olympic memorabilia, trophies and statues. The fifth floor is also home to the Coco Chanel Suite – the famous fashion designer lived at the Lausanne Palace

Sport, games and fun: Oskar on the running track in the Olympic park (top left), with a food bowl that looks suspiciously like Oskar’s (centre), in the ballroom of the Lausanne Palace (bottom) – and enjoying the evening views of the city and lake from the hotel.

with her dog for several months before buying a house in the city and moving there. Residents of the stylish suite can admire hand-drawn designs, Chanel shoes and Art Deco furniture – and store their own clothes in a huge dressing room.

All Oskar needs is a cosy dog bed. He can do without a dressing room because he naturally wears his own little black number day and night. If he could speak French, he would immediately call room service and order something from the dog menu, sillwoofplais! But he’s also happy with dry food and perhaps a banana or an apple from the sumptuous fruit platter that is temptingly placed at snout height on the coffee table. Vitamins are important, especially for competitive sports-Labradors. And also for people who want to tone up in the hotel’s gym, which bears the beautiful French title Musculation.

While the dog chills in the room, his master goes for lunch in the hotel’s own restaurant, Matcha Picchu. This modern city restaurant offers Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine: Bento boxes with sushi, ceviche and grilled food. The restaurant is a popular meeting place, just like the hotel lobby, where businessmen negotiate, girlfriends gossip and older couples enjoy coffee and cake. ‘Our culture at the hotel is very inclusive,’ says General Manager Isabelle von Burg. ‘Our clientele is mixed: over 6 0 percent are private guests from the medical tourism and leisure sectors. The rest are business people.’ And dogs are also welcome at any time –even in the Grand Chene, the fine brasserie on the ground floor.

Oskar’s mouth waters as the waiter brings a platter of iced oysters to the table. Tartar, steaks and pasta are served at the neighbouring table. The dog peers curiously from the upper floor of the restaurant through the banister to a table downstairs where a group of women are happily chatting away as they tuck into Wiener schnitzel with match-thin French fries. Amused by the dog’s yearning look, the ladies are on the verge of feeding him some fries. Oskar, for his part, is on the verge of performing an Olympic-sized dive towards the schnitzel table.

After dinner, dog and master sit contentedly on the balcony of the hotel room and look out over the mountains. There is hardly anything left to be desired. Except perhaps one thing: dog sports must become an Olympic discipline again! Perhaps this should be put on the agenda at the next IOC meeting. Actually, the idea isn’t as absurd as it sounds. A demonstration competition in sled dog sports was held at the 1932 Winter Olympics in Lake Placid. The teams of seven dogs had to cover a course of 40. 5 kilometres. Hmm… sounds rather exhausting, perhaps a sausage-eating competition would be more attractive from Oskar’s point of view. Anyway, that’s enough Olympic sports for one day. Heads down, lights off and good night!

three times lucky

IN LUCERNE

When it comes to nightlife and bars, the heartland of Swiss tourism at Lake Lucerne is a real dark horse. During our visit, we meet a bar chef who tickles our taste buds, bravely order a cocktail with a bite, and dine in what is probably the most exclusive Japanese restaurant in Switzerland.

WORDS OLIVER SCHMUKI ILLUSTRATIONS DANIEL FÖLLMI

There are many things that make Lucerne an attractive travel destination. Some of these, such as the lakeside location and the unbeatable view of the Alps, have always been an integral part of why tourists flock to the area to marvel at the sights.

But this time, we’re not drawn here because of the geography – at least, not because of that alone. No, we’re here to discuss the state of the city’s liquidity, so to speak. The starting point and base of operations for our gourmet adventure to the city’s bars is the iconic Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern, which is gleaming after its recent revitalisation. The hotel was officially reopened in September 2022 after a long renovation phase – but that’s far from the beginning of this hotel’s story. The listed Belle Époque building in the lakefront area of Nationalquai, which is now run as a luxurious grand hotel by Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, was built between 1904 and 1906 and has many tales to tell from its almost 120-year history.

In my view, a hotel that embraces modern trends while keeping tradition alive has a great deal in common with a successful contemporary cocktail – that is, one which draws on established experience and expertise while mixing in a dash of innovation and bringing it all together with skilled flair to create something new and exquisite. In a nutshell, we are curious to see what the bar culture in Lucerne is like today, both inside and outside the Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern. So let the game begin!

tip-up 01

MOZERN, MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE, LUZERN

From the moment we descend to the bar for an aperitif, this Monday evening is off to a very promising start. The bar is part of the MOzern brasserie, which is located on the ground floor of the hotel. We head towards the bar across the period marble floor with its chessboard pattern – although we pay little heed to the rules of the game – all the while marvelling at the original columns made of coralcoloured stucco marble. The oval bar sits beneath an enormous and entrancing chandelier that looks like the delicate frame of a petticoat. I slowly lower my gaze until I find myself looking into a friendly pair of eyes – which, as it turns out, belong to Chef de Bar Gabriele Cusimano. Straight away, I can tell that this man will be able to make all my cocktail wishes come true – even the non-alcoholic ones.

Of the two signature mocktails, I choose the Tip-Up. It’s a mystery to me how Gabriele manages to get the taste of turmeric and matcha into this drink alongside the citrus notes to create two different coloured layers. Not only is the result visually appealing, its tart fruitiness also packs a punch and the flavour evolves as I change the depth of my straw. The glass is empty sooner than expected, but there’s just enough time to savour a sip of a brand new concoction on the current summer menu: the Lucerne Sunset, based on the triad of Campari, mandarin vodka and Cointreau. It’s hard to say goodbye (to Gabriele as well as to the drink), but a spot at another, even more coveted bar in the house is already waiting for us. We have a reservation at the 14 GaultMillau point-rated Japanese restaurant Minamo, which is located right next to the brasserie. A maximum of eight people at a time can gather here for an omakase dinner, where each course is prepared in front of the guests. Now is not the time to reveal all the secrets of the dinner itself. In any case, a description of this unforgettable meal would provide enough material for another article in this magazine. All I will say is this: there was no shortage of sake.

– Haldenstrasse 10, mandarinoriental.com

SWITZERLAND’S LEADING CLASSICAL MUSIC FESTIVAL

The international stars of classical music right in the heart of Central Switzerland! Hear the best orchestras, thrilling soloists and exciting new discoveries at Lucerne Festival — four times a year. lucernefestival.ch

CAPITOL

Time then for some fresh air and a walk. We stroll along the shore over the historic Chapel Bridge and around the lake basin, past the railway station and the tracks and aim for Glou Glou. The social media profile of this natural wine bar paints a promising picture. The only thing we forget is that we’re out and about on a Monday evening – and Waldstätterstrasse in Lucerne is not exactly New York’s Broadway. With the bar doors closed, a dearth of alternatives and a steadily growing hankering for a drink, we decide on the nearby Bar Capitol near Bundesplatz, which is located in the premises of the cinema of the same name. It’s a lucky move – as we we’ll soon find out! The screens of the Capitol have seen plenty of action over the cinema’s 90-year history. But they’re not the only storytellers in the building, as it turns out – much to our delight – the team around head bartender Tim Michel is also extremely adept in the art of weaving a narrative. The menu presents itself as a hybrid of storyboard and cocktail menu. Both visually and in terms of content, the ambitiously illustrated menu, which changes every six months, is always inspired by a cult blockbuster. At the time of our visit, it was Big Fish by Tim Burton. The drinks, we are told, are intended to be reminiscent of various key scenes or characters, which are evoked through the ingredients, colours and presentation. I opt for a Werewolf: Neptunia gin from Hendrick’s, blended with blood orange and topped with egg white foam. My companion orders a Negroni. Although his cocktail is more potent in terms of alcohol percentage, he justifies his choice by saying that it comes with a much lower risk of lycanthropy. Not that I’m concerned. We are both happy with our choice, as we toast, sip, reminisce over our favourite moments from Big Fish and think about what drink we would conjure up for the next Capitol menu, which will be themed on the offbeat comedy Snatch. A Cousin Avi perhaps – a kosher champagne cocktail resounding with the clink of diamonds instead of ice cubes?

– Zentralstrasse 45a, barcapitol.ch

negroni 02

The innovative menu and the friendly service almost tempt us to order a second round at the Capitol Bar. However, the choice of music is not really to our taste. We can just about bear Would You (Go to Bed with Me)? by Alcemist and Campbell, but as Shania Twain’s Man! I Feel Like a Woman kicks in, we pay up and say goodbye.

On the walk back to the hotel, we are already wondering what nightcap Gabriele will serve us – when we realise that there is another bar in the city with a legendary atmosphere that can tell us a tale or two. And since it’s only a little more than a stone’s throw away, we head for the Louis Bar in the Art Deco Hotel Montana even though the hour is getting late.

singlewhiskymalt

The whisky menu here lists around 130 single malts, and you won’t find a larger rum selection anywhere else in central Switzerland. As far as spirits are concerned, I’m going on a trip to the Inner Hebrides, more precisely to Islay in the west of Scotland. I can just about resist the First Edition of a Black Bowmore bottled in 1993, which costs 1000 francs for 2 centilitres. In any case, the jury is out as to whether it could have made me any happier than the peaty, insanely aromatic 25-year-old Bowmore that glows in golden hues in my tasting glass in its place …

In 1936, none other than Ernest Hemingway wrote the sentence ‘Meet me at the Hotel Montana’ in his short story The Capital of the World. He would probably have ordered rum here. But if he were visiting Lucerne today, he would certainly have followed us back to Gabriele’s for the kind of deep conversation you only find at the bottom of a glass. However, we don’t want to push our luck, so we slowly but surely make our way back home down the hill to the Mandarin Oriental Palace where we go past the bar area and head directly to our room. My bed is calling. And who knows what side effects the Werewolf from earlier will have. After all, it’s just before midnight, and is that a full moon I glimpse hiding behind the grey haze of the night-time clouds …?

Adligenswilerstrasse 22, hotel-montana.ch

Magic Moments at Unique PlaceS

magic moments at unique places

all events

13 – 16 June 2024

ART BASEL

05 – 20 July 2024

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL

The Festival is famous for its exceptional heritage and legendary concerts. With its intimate ambience and renowned hospitality, it offers a unique experience for artists and public alike. montreuxjazzfestival.com

The New York Times dubbed it the ‘Art Olympics’, Vogue called it ‘the most beautiful temporary museum in the world’, and Le Monde simply hailed it as ‘the best in the world’. Art Basel, the premier international art show, attracts and inspires art lovers from across the globe year after year. artbasel.com

CALENDER AND DATES

You can find further information and details at swisstopevents.ch

17 – 19 January 2025 FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN

In January 2025, the 95th International Lauberhorn Races will be held in Wengen in the beautiful Bernese Oberland. The world’s best Alpine skiers will compete in the Super-G on Friday, on the legendary Lauberhorn downhill slope on Saturday, and in the Slalom on Sunday. lauberhorn.ch

05 – 08 September 2024

OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANS-MONTANA

The Omega European Masters, which takes place in Crans-Montana (VS), has been offering its 50,000 spectators magical moments in a breathtaking Alpine environment ever since 1939. Professional golfers from all over the world come to compete in the most stunning setting of the DP World Tour schedule. omegaeuropeanmasters.com

13 August – 15 September 2024

15 – 17 November 2024

11 – 13 April 2025

LUCERNE FESTIVAL

Lucerne Festival ranks among the leading international presenters of classical music, offering various festivals throughout the year. The main festival, which takes place in summer, showcases the world’s most-renowned symphony orchestras, conductors, and soloists, as well as the young artist generation and contemporary music. The other festivals include Lucerne Festival Forward in November, which is focused on contemporary music, the Spring Festival, and the Piano Fest curated by pianist Igor Levit. Together with the Summer Festival, they attract classical music fans from all over the world. lucernefestival.ch

05 September 2024

Hosting the best athletes from Switzerland, Europe, and the World, Weltklasse Zürich once again combines breathtaking performances of track and field heroes with the magical atmosphere at Letzigrund Stadium. In addition, one discipline will be chosen to represent the sport event at Zurich main station.

weltklassezuerich.ch

07 – 17 August 2024

LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL

Every summer since 1946, the Locarno Film Festival has brought the world’s most innovative cinema to the shores of Lake Maggiore. Thanks to its free spirit, the Festival has become an incubator of ideas and new projects, with educational and cultural activities organised throughout the year.

locarnofestival.ch

02, 09, 16 February 2025

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ

The fascination for the world’s only horse race on a frozen lake has remained for generations. Featuring traditional skikjöring, flat, trotting and pony races, White Turf St. Moritz attracts VIPs from around the globe, locals and betting enthusiasts alike. whiteturf.ch

Featuring one of the world’s largest screens that attracts up to 8,000 people every evening, the Piazza Grande is the centrepiece of the Locarno Film Festival. A sophisticated transport concept developed in cooperation with rail and bus companies ensures that most visitors can get home by public transport, even after midnight.

AN AMPLIFIER FOR ARTISTIC CONTENT

Serbian director Dragan Bjelogrlić emerges from the darkness of the black Gran Rex cinema and strides nimbly onto the stage. Clad headto-toe in white, he accepts the Pardo Verde Ricola from Senegalese filmmaker Moussa Sene Absa to the cheers and applause of a full house. Every year, the Locarno Film Festival awards this emerald green leopard statue to the work that a special judging panel recognises as the ‘best film on the themes of sustainability, ecology and the relationship between species’, as the presenter –also all in white – announced. The prize comes with award money of CHF 20,000. Moussa Sene Absa is the president of the special judging panel for the Pardo Verde and is also wearing a white, floral, festively embroidered Senegalese long shirt –paired with a round, white cap – to celebrate the award ceremony.

It’s a scene that has no need for words as it symbolises the idea of sustainability that the Locarno Film Festival embodies and aims to radiate to the outside world. The festival goes beyond simply ensuring that its operations are as energy-efficient and waste-saving as possible in terms of the circular economy. The white outfits – a pure coincidence –with their symbolism of peace are a reminder that Locarno is committed to the inclusion of all walks of humanity and fosters peaceful dialogue between peoples. The core business of film itself plays the main role in the sustainability discourse

here and serves to raise audience awareness and thus highlight the green credentials of the annual festival.

For this reason, the festival management team, Artistic Director Giona A. Nazzaro and Managing Director Raphaël Brunschwig, created the Pardo Verde – the Green Leopard – as an annual award for the film that most effectively brings sustainability into the public eye. The Green Leopard is so named because the main prize that Locarno has awarded at each of its 76 editions is called the Golden Leopard, or Pardo d’Oro in Italian. ‘Film is our lifeblood. That’s why it’s important for us to emphasise sustainability here too,’ says Raphaël Brunschwig.

Last year, the award winner was a film that tells an impactful story about the health consequences of radioactive contamination and how people deal with it. In cases like these, the film festival also helps to raise awareness of topics that cinema-goers might prefer not to think about. The scene playing out on stage at the awards ceremony at the Gran Rex also symbolises the festival’s achievement in bringing people together – with a little Swiss twist: not only is the eleven-day film festival itself an internationally recognised local institution attracting some 150,000 visitors every year.

WORDS DANIEL WIENER

The leopard has been the heraldic animal of the Locarno Film Festival, which has around 150,000 admissions each year, since its inception. The top prize for the best film is the Golden Leopard. And for several years now, the work with the greatest impact on sustainable development has been awarded the Green Leopard.

A magnet for the young and the young-atheart: the concerts and parties at the Montreux Jazz Festival have seen almost all the legends of pop music on stage or at the DJ booth. The organisers are aware of their responsibility to keep the waste produced by a quarter of a million guests per year as low as possible.

The same applies to the Montreux Jazz Festival, also known simply as the MJF to those in the scene. Just like every year, this world-class concert series is getting ready to welcome around a quarter of a million music fans on the picturesque shores of Lake Geneva over several weeks in July. MJF Director Mathieu Jaton takes few words to get to the crux of his central sustainability philosophy: ‘We don’t want to follow trends, we want to get involved in the really important issues. Our primary aim is not to communicate, but to take responsibility. But of course we have to explain what we are doing and how.’

This means that the festival is increasingly turning to local or at least European suppliers. The explosion in energy costs is a huge issue, which in turn drives the motivation to use electricity sparingly, whether for lighting or stage technology.

Special attention is also paid to waste management. As recently as a few years ago, 16 tonnes of waste were being produced at the festival every day, mainly by visitors. It has been possible to reduce this vast quantity of plastic bottles, packaging and picnic leftovers, but not to zero. That is why an 80 -strong Green Team works tirelessly to keep the site clean. The team sorts the waste and, in close co-operation with Montreux’s municipal waste collection service, sends most of it for recycling. The festival has already won the Swiss Recycling Award for its meticulous approach to waste management. And every August, after the last jam sessions have finished and all the jazz musicians have left, the festival gets involved in a big underwater clean-up operation to clear the neighbouring lake of all the rubbish left behind.

The picturesque location of the Montreux Jazz Festival site at Lake Geneva is also an obligation – nature’s beauty must not be jeopardised by humans. After the event, cleaning crews ensure that not only the shores of the lake but also the adjacent underwater world are kept clean.

´AS RECENTLY AS A FEW YEARS AGO, 16 TONNES OF WASTE WERE BEING PRODUCED AT THE FESTIVAL EVERY DAY, MAINLY BY VISITORS.´

The festival also demonstrates exemplary social commitment within Montreux itself. With a dozen coordinated measures, the festival ensures that all guests feel safe and included, even on the way home: for example, the Be My Angel initiative at a stand on the festival grounds proposes a trust-based agreement for visitors. According to this agreement, one member of the group is designated an angel and pledges not to drink alcohol for the entire evening so they can get their friends home safely.

Director Jaton is grateful for the fact that the Swiss Top Events are engaged in an intensive dialogue on the most pressing aspects of sustainability: ‘I wholeheartedly welcome the fact that we can learn from and inspire each other, even though each of the events operates completely independently and their needs can sometimes vary.’

Raphaël Brunschwig, Managing Director of the Locarno Film Festival and President of Swiss Top Events , adds his thoughts, telling us: ‘The greatest hope is that sustainability becomes an amplifier for the artistic content that we represent.’ Like

Jaton, he stresses that his festival ‘approaches this topic seriously at all levels’ in order to avoid greenwashing.

For Brunschwig, this also includes systematic reporting on what has been achieved, as well as on the gaps that still need to be closed: ‘We can get better every year’ is his credo. One of the positive actions that his sustainability report talks about in detail is the focus on six key topics of the UN Sustainable Development Goals that are relevant to the festival: quality education, gender equality, decent work and economic growth, reduced inequalities, responsible consumption and production as well as partnerships for the goals. In each of these areas, Locarno invests not only its idealistic spirit but also considerable financial resources. These key principles also illustrate that sustainability at Swiss Top Events is by no means limited to climate protection or other necessary but predominantly defensive and restrictive activities, but also makes a positive contribution to the development of society.

Genève

Zürich

Ascona

14 Gstaad Palace Gstaad

15 Le Grand Bellevue Gstaad

16 Park Gstaad Gstaad

17 The Alpina Gstaad Gstaad

18 Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa Interlaken

19 Lausanne Palace Lausanne

20 Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne-Ouchy

21 Le Mirador Resort & Spa Le Mont-Pèlerin

22 Hotel Splendide Royal Lugano

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24 Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Montreux

25 Beau-Rivage Hotel Neuchâtel

26 Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina

27 Badrutt’s Palace Hotel St. Moritz

28 Carlton Hotel St. Moritz

St. Moritz

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31 Grand Hôtel du Lac Vevey

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35 Riffelalp Resort 2222 m Zermatt

36 Baur au Lac Zürich

37 La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich Zürich

38 The Dolder Grand Zürich

39 Widder Hotel Zürich

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REAL LIFE

I’m honestly kind of surprised that –having survived the wonderful yet energy-zapping years of early child rearing, parents’ evenings from hell and moody teenagers – I find myself in a Zurich café with my editor and friend, Evelyn, launching into a caffeine-fuelled monologue about my younger daughter Lily that leaves us both somewhat jittery, exuberated and slightly in need of a liedown. And yes, I realise that that sentence alone just filled about half of my spanking-new column here, which leads me to believe that freshly diagnosed Lily might not actually be the only member of our family who has ADHD.

If you’re anything like me, I’m sure you personally know a bunch of people with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder. It’s one of the most common neurodevelopmental disorders of childhood, and has been whispered by yours truly on many an occasion, usually under my breath when one of my friend’s sons was acting like a stick-wielding maniac

around my two girls. And before you start typing out your angry email to H Magazine, hear me out: for years, I believed that ADHD was so easy to spot (just grab the stick!) and so straightforward to treat (just give them their smart vitamins! ) that I ended up doing my daughter a complete disservice while raising her into the witty, intelligent and challenging almost-adult that she’s currently turning into at 19 years of age. She’s smart, she’s funny and she’s excelling at school, thanks to phenethylamine, commonly known as Ritalin.

To be honest, anyone who ever met Lily, from the girls at daycare to her frustrated primary school teacher right up to her Year 8 teacher, asked us if she’d been evaluated for possible hyperactivity, and believe me: my husband and I not only lovingly called her Godzilly for the first few years of her life, but also went through the process of IQ tests and behavioural evaluations three times – only to be told each time that it wasn’t ADHD, but that she was simply a.) very energetic, b.) talkative and c.) gifted with a high IQ, but only in terms of the speed of her learning, and that she was terrible at figuring out how she can file away all that information in her memory. Her grades were always fine, she’s always had lots of friends and honestly, my husband and I recognised so many of her quirks in ourselves that we figured we were in the clear … until Lily herself insisted

on being seen by an ADHD specialist for adults once she turned 18.

His assessment was as clear as day, and he was the first person who was able to explain to me properly that stimulants, as he called them, weren’t the performance-altering drugs I was so wary of, but a tool that can help people like Lily discover that they’re not actually stupid or slow, but simply wired differently. The way she described the feeling of being able to sit still and listen to her biology teacher for a full hour for the first time ever after taking her first dose both upset and thrilled me: I felt bad for not taking the signs seriously for the entirety of her childhood, but thrilled that she’s discovered a path that will take her wherever she wants to go, whether it’s an academic career or becoming … well, if her current interests are anything to go by, an artist with a messy atelier who screenprints sweatshirts and owns three dogs.

It’s not surprising to me at all that quite a few of my adult friends have now sought out their own adult ADHD diagnoses, and honestly: with how much I’ve now learned about attention deficit disorder, I’m almost certain that I’m on the spectrum, too. Just because I’ve kept a stiff upper lip throughout my life and have turned my talent for multitasking into a career, that doesn’t mean everyone has to. Including, and most especially, my uniquely challenging, inspiring younger daughter. Now, where did I put my glasses?

WORDS STEFFI HIDBER

City-Trip Milano. Die besten Adressen.

TV-Koch Tim Malzer.

Das Interview auf dem Schloss.

Das faszinierende Werk von Stararchitekt Peter Zumthor.

Smart & easy: Giovannini-Rezepte fur zu Hause.

Tauchen Sie ein in die Welt von Andreas Caminada. Der Kultchef von Schloss Schauenstein gibt sein eigenes Magazin heraus.

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COVER PHOTO

The Saffa Island is located on the city grounds of Zurich and can be easily reached via the Wollishofen/ Werft train station. Few people know that this mini island owes its existence to initiative women, who in the summer of 1958, shoveled 26,000 cubic metres of earth into Lake Zurich, thus creating the Saffa Island. The drone footage is taken by Christian Meixner.

H MAGAZINE – DISCOVERING SWISS LUXURY

Welcome to H Magazine, where Swiss flair, savoir-vivre, and the world of our esteemed Swiss Deluxe Hotels come alive.

Within these pages, you’ll find captivating stories, exclusive interviews, and themed features that celebrate luxury, gastronomy, lifestyle, and intriguing long reads. Our engaging contributors bring you authentic guest experiences and glimpses behind the scenes. As a special interest magazine, H caters to readers who appreciate exquisite service and seek to learn more about the passionate individuals shaping the success of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. The magazine aims to surprise and fascinate readers in an elegant fashion.

H MAGAZINE

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

DISTRIBUTION

H Magazine is distributed across the Swiss Deluxe Hotels member network, reaching a combined 1.5 million guests per year

PUBLICATION

H Magazine is published twice a year, in July and December

PUBLISHER

Swiss Deluxe Hotels | Augustinergasse 30 | 8001 Zürich

EDITOR

Evelyn Gorgos | eg@egocommunications.com

DESIGN

DD COM AG | Seefeldstrasse 301 | 8008 Zürich | info@ddcom.ch

ADVERTISING MANAGEMENT

Evelyn Gorgos | eg@egocommunications.com

Discerning Media | ciao@discerningmedia.com

TRANSLATIONS

Syntax Übersetzungen AG

PROOFREADING Apostroph Group

CONTRIBUTORS

Alex Kuehn | a.kuehn@marmite.ch

Alexander Palacios | info@alexander-palacios.com

Anita Lehmeier | anita.lehmeier@ringier.ch

Beatrice Lessi | beatrice@askthemonsters.com

Claudio del Principe | claudio@delprincipe.ch

Clifford Lilley | clifford@clifford-lilley.com

Dan Roznov | spy@champagnespy.com

Daniel Föllmi | ink@danielfoellmi.ch

Elena & Tim Steness | elena@elenasteness.com

Enno Kapitza | contact@ennokapitza.de

Katarina Griesbach | katka.griesbach@icloud.com

Oliver Schmuki | oschmuki@gmail.com

Patricia Bröhm | patricia.broehm@t-online.de

Peter Keller | peter.keller@nzz.ch

Rachel Truman | rachelktruman@gmail.com

Stefan Hottinger-Behmer | stefan@thediscerningnomad.com

Steffi Hidber | steffi@heypretty.ch

Titus Arnu | titusarnu@mac.com

Thomas Garms | thomas.garms@materialist.media

PHOTOGRAPHS

Photos were made available by Swiss Deluxe Hotels, the contributors mentioned above, Switzerland Tourism and other sources

PRINTED BY

Stämpfli AG I Wölflistrasse 1 I 3001 Bern

WEBSITE swissdeluxehotels.com

H MAGAZINE ONLINE swissdeluxehotels.com/magazine

UPGRADE YOURSELF

I don’t know about you, but I always feel ambivalent about oh-so-attractive and apparently-super-duperexclusive upgrade offers – be it at a hotel, fashion store, rental car company, fine dining restaurant, on a webshop or per Instagram DM. Not because I am not open to it, but because these kind of offers are most often pitched half-heartedly, to the point of appearing pushy and sleazy. Elegantly screaming: profit, book, only now. Or you will risk receiving tonnes of bad karma. Poor tactics can transform even the most tempting upgrade into what may feel almost like a downgrade. And in the worst case, it can set a sour tone for the rest of your long-term relationship with a client. As the saying goes: you never get a second chance to make a first impression.

Sophisticated upselling is an art form that remains one of the most underrated and widely underused sales tactics in the luxury lifestyle business, and only a few dare to perfect it. All

you need is a change of heart: stop being driven by the urge to convert and get to know your clients. Remember that phrase from The Wolf of Wall Street: ‘Sell me this pen!’ People still debate its meaning and many suggest it is a metaphor for dull tactics. The point being, not to come up with rational sales arguments, but to engage with clients, ask questions and actively listen to answers, only to make the most personal, unforgettable upsells Honey, remember the Sommelière that made us discover Château D’Yquem, with the tasty safran notes? There is nothing quite like feeling totally understood. The top luxury brands all recognise the power of bespoke human bonding.

In my humble opinion, one species is particurly skilled at it and I am always interested in studying their tactics: barkeepers. Sorry, mixologists, as they are called today, but keeper of the bar sounds bigger. Within little time, they need to assess moods of customers. Like, leave us the beeeep alone. Here we are now, entertain us. I need to pour my heart out. Hi sexy, flirt with us. Or, let’s celebrate our big deal. And come up with drinks to underline that very feeling, even go beyond it and take it to another level. That’s the true misson.

What does the art of upselling come down to? Empathy? Leadership? Intuition? Charm? Good looks?

Can this talent be acquired or can it only be learned early on by the social skills in our family? Hey Chat GPT, please answer these questions. And don’t bother upselling.

Sure, we love the thrill of being offered something special that is very personal to us, be it an experience or a thing we didn’t know we needed. Providing us with endless goosebumps that lighten our day, year, life. Even if overshadowed by the swipe of your pretty American Express Platinum Card. Sure I do. But I don’t need to wait for someone to offer it to me and I believe that we should upgrade ourselves constantly in all sorts of life situations, big or small.

Don’t just accept the table they assigned to you, ask for one with a better view. Make an effort to go hit the beach early. Eat sweet mangos when in season. Go for a walk when the sun is out. Make time to attend your kid’s games. Buy the sleek shoes not to own, but because you feel empowered in them. Get the lipstick that makes you feel desired. Upgrade yourself, for yourself, not for others. Because in life, the only way is up. Talking of it, I am currently taking Spanish classes to up my language game for my next trip to Mexico. So I don’t get ripped off when someone tries to upsell me something. But that story is for another time. Until then: Bon Voyage!

WORDS DAN ROZNOV