Swiss excellence in the treatment of mental health and issues of substance and behavioural dependency
Clinic Les Alpes is an exceptionally private and secluded retreat. Located in a setting of outstanding natural beauty in the mountains close to the town of Montreux, Switzerland. The clinic has the added convenience of proximity to all major swiss airports.
This exclusive clinic is fully medically licensed by the Swiss Department of Health and treats patients and their families with the issues of substance and behavioural dependency, along with debilitating emotional and mental conditions, such as anxiety, stress, depression and burnout.
Clinic Les Alpes provides a fully integrated approach to treatment and each patient receives a bespoke programme created together with the medical team for his or her individual needs and requirements. The expertise of an international, highly skilled, multi-disciplinary team of medical, psychiatric, psychotherapeutic and complementary practitioners is on hand and available 24 hours a day, seven days a week to be of service to patients and their families who are referred from around the globe. The clinic is multilingual with the primary language being English.
Clinic Les Alpes is beautifully appointed and each of the private ensuite bedrooms has superb views of lake Geneva, the snow capped mountains and alpine meadows. Below the main chateau building, three floors have been excavated from solid rock, flooded with natural light and housing state of the art medical and therapeutic facilities along with a complete floor dedicated to a full medical spa.
Many services claim to deliver excellence. At Clinic Les Alpes we have set our sights on defining it.
We are here to assist. Contact us in complete confidence at:
www.cliniclesalpes.com
+41 58 360 55 00
A FESTIVE MOOD
Almost five years ago, we released the first issue of our magazine, marking the start of an exciting journey into the fascinating world of our Swiss Deluxe Hotels. On our journey, we have met many wonderful people who work diligently behind the scenes to ensure that you as a guest are on cloud nine and that no wish remains unfulfilled. These people are our hidden champions. We have discovered places off the beaten track and in often unexpected locations. We refer to these places as our hidden gems. And then there are the many anecdotes, side glances and columns, with the sole aim of making you smile a little and also surprising you in a good way – such as the wonderful cover image by Enrico Costantini. His eye for detail and the hidden moment he captured is an accurate reflection of the mood and sentiment within our anniversary edition of the H.
This time we are off on a culinary voyage through the snowwhite gourmet paradise of St. Moritz. Our discovery: La Dama Bianca, a white pizza with taleggio, buffalo mozzarella and black truffle that you definitely need to try (page 91). In Zurich, temptation can be found lurking in the hotel itself, with some rooms at the Mandarin Oriental Savoy overlooking Switzerland's most famous chocolate shop. And once you've tasted the cheesecake in a jar, you'll never forget this wonderful creation (page 38).
Made with gin, vermouth, and Campari, the bitter-sweet flavor of the Negroni embodies the essence of Italian Dolce Vita. This image perfectly showcases the elegance of this classic drink. It was captured by Enrico Costantini during his visit to St. Moritz last winter, when he also took our cover image.
When it comes to Peter Knogl, head chef at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois (chef's portrait on page 77), every plate that leaves the kitchen passes his attentive eye, while cocktail culture is celebrated next door in the bar. Basel is a mecca for lovers of gourmet food, art and design, and not only during Art Basel. Fabio Toffolon describes his voyage of discovery through Andermatt as both stimulating and exhilarating. ‘From the first to the last bite, everything is intense but balanced,’ adds his twin brother and chef Dominik Sato (page 41), and we can only agree.
Allow yourself be tempted by Mattias Rook's filling for fagottini, an Italian type of pasta (see his recipe on page 105) or, simply take the time to write a personal letter or greetings card. Handwritten correspondence conveys a feeling of care, seriousness and, above all, personal appreciation (read more about this on page 31).
Enjoy reading the 10th edition of H Magazine and celebrate with us!
Evelyn
Gorgos
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WINTER HIGHLIGHTS
Travel Guide 036
A museum for the ears, trekking with llamas, saunas on Lake Zurich, world-class design and plenty of culinary highlights. The four popular Swiss destinations from a different perspective - a pleasure for all the senses.
Spa Review
049
Does the spa world deserve its own seal of excellence?
The Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne proves that sometimes, reality exceeds expectations.
Montreux Running Tips 063
Being outdoors in the Swiss Riviera offers the perfect way to do some sightseeing and feel instantly happier.
A Winter Fairytale
With the legendary Golden-Pass Express from Zweisimmen to Gstaad.
068
Chef`s Portrait 076
Peter Knogl has transformed the Cheval Blanc in Basel into one of the best classic restaurants in the world. When you talk to him, you quickly realise why this is the case.
A Snow White Gourmet Paradise 089
St. Moritz is attracting guests from all over the world, not least because of its cosmopolitan gastronomy.
A Menu that tells Stories
100
Welcome to the Locanda Barbarossa restaurant, an oasis for foodies in Ticino`s Castello del Sole, where the flavours of the Mediterranean garden are combined with the creativity of haute cuisine.
Oskar
110
Dog heaven on earth: At the super-luxurious BeauRivage Palace hotel, not only are Labradors treated like kings, they are also kings in themselves.
Three Times Lucky
Basel`s innovative local bar scene.
Swiss Top Events
Entering a new era with a dedication to sustainability, part III.
Steffi Hidber (50) finds inspiration everywhere, whether it's in her beloved home town of Zurich, testing new products for her successful blog Hey Pretty or travelling throughout Europe, visiting world-class spas and trying to find a delicious gluten-free croissant (but failing miserably). As a wife, mother of two nearly adult daughters and running her own business, she now shares her juggles and struggles – and unique humoristic outlook on life – in her column for H Magazine.
CHRISTOPH AMMANN
has been a travel journalist for 38 years. He was head of the travel section of the SonntagsZeitung in Zurich for a quarter of a century and frequently travelled the world on research trips.
Today, at the age of 66, he takes it easier and writes mainly about the hotel industry. The passionate journalist went blind in 2011 due to a hereditary disease. In 2024, he was the first Swiss person to be awarded an honorary prize by Vereinigung Deutscher Reisejournalisten (the Association of German Travel Journalists ). He inter-viewed Carsten Rath and spoke to him about his new hotel ranking for us.
KRISTIN MÜLLER
… is a woman of many words. For what feels like no time at all but in reality has been well over a decade she has been bringing her thoughts to paper, writing about anything that interests and inspires her, roaming near and preferably far, forever looking for new stories to tell. Apart from writing about the things she discovers, she loves putting clothes on people – as an editorial fashion stylist on professional models, or as that annoying friend who wants to prove that yes, dear, it does look good on you.
ENRICO COSTANTINI
... a Venetian documentary and travel photographer, with a talent for visual storytelling, has followed his lens around the world to photograph people, places and charming interiors. With a background in interior design and fashion, he combines aesthetics, forms and a sense of space to create compositions that bring empathy to his photography. We immediately fell in love with the image he took in the Badrutt's Palace hotel for our cover.
STEPHANIE FÜSSENICH AND ILONA MARX
This is not the first trip that Paris-based photographer Stephanie Füssenich and German journalist Ilona Marx have taken together. However, both of them can safely say that the journey in the Belle Epoque carriages of the GoldenPass Express from Zweisimmen to Gstaad was by far the most beautiful.
swiss season's embrace
It is with great pleasure that we are presenting the 10th edition of our H-Magazine. This winter, we invite you to discover the magic of Swiss Deluxe Hotels, where unforgettable moments await in our exceptional properties. Whether nestled in the snowy mountains or within the refined elegance of our city hotels, each location offers dedicated spaces for relaxation and well-being. We hope this issue inspires you to experience unique moments in an atmosphere of serenity, surrounded by your loved ones..
Throughout the editions, H-Magazine has evolved. What once was a commercial platform has transformed into a true lifestyle magazine, thanks to the continuous innovation of our member hotels. They consistently push the boundaries of luxury and refinement, delivering incomparable experiences with every stay.
We are delighted to announce that our organisation recently welcomed three new members during our General Meeting this summer in Gstaad: Bürgenstock, the Savoy / Mandarin Oriental in Zurich, and La Réserve in Geneva. More recently, the Villars Palace has joined our prestigious collection. With 43 member hotels, each representing the pinnacle of luxury hospitality in Switzerland, we are proud to offer you an unparalleled choice.
Nathalie Seiler-Hayez Managing Director
Michael Smithuis Chairman Swiss Deluxe Hotels
As committed players in the luxury industry, we have also taken significant steps towards sustainability. Our hotels have pledged to achieve Swisstainable Level III certification by 2028, affirming our desire to build a more environmentally respectful future focused on the well-being of our communities.
In these uncertain times, taking time for oneself and cherishing precious moments with family and friends is more important than ever. The pandemic has strengthened the value of human connections and shared experiences. Whether at our mountain retreats by a warm fire after a day on the slopes, or at our city hotels, where serenity and relaxation await, each stay is a unique opportunity to reconnect with those who matter most.
Our gastronomic experiences perfectly complement these unforgettable moments. In our restaurants, our talented chefs create exceptional dishes, combining local flavours with creativity. Whether you prefer an intimate dinner or a get-together with friends, every meal is a culinary journey to be savoured.
We wish you a winter filled with warmth, well-being, shared moments, and delightful culinary discoveries. We look forward to welcoming you to our properties soon to experience the magic of winter at Swiss Deluxe Hotels.
Nathalie and Michael
The Kafi Crème, a symbol of Swiss coffee culture
In collaboration with top chef Heiko Nieder, Nespresso presents an exclusive coffee co-creation: Zurich Lungo. The limited edition is an homage to Zurich and its vibrant coffee culture.
‘For me, the Kafi Crème is the perfect embodiment of Swiss coffee culture. It combines the elegance of a Lungo with the rich creaminess that we appreciate so much in Switzerland,’ says Heiko Nieder, Chef Fine Dining at the Dolder Grand Zurich, who has been awarded two Michelin stars and 19 Gault Millau points.
‘Switzerland, and the city of Zurich in particular, is an important platform for the world’s coffee consumption culture. Many trends have their origins here,’ explains Dominique Niederhauser, Coffee Ambassador at Nespresso Switzerland. ‘In collaboration with Heiko Nieder, we wanted to draw inspiration from this Kafi Crème. Zurich Lungo is the ideal coffee to start the day and enjoy for breakfast.’
This elegant yet complex coffee impresses with its perfect balance and aromatic intensity, complemented by biscuit-like notes and an aroma of hazelnuts, and develops its taste best with a dash of milk, but is also pleasing when drunk black.
The Zurich Lungo is a new addition to the famous World Explorations coffee range from Nespresso, which stands for the exploration of coffee traditions and rituals around the world.
The top chef was involved in all stages of the cocreation, from selecting the beans to extraction and roasting. Did you know? Switzerland is one of the countries with the highest level of coffee consumption in the world and has a historied coffee tradition. nespresso.com
Long live the classics!
Maybe it was providence: Cyril Bettschen was given a silver spoon by his godfather for his christening. Today, 30 years later, the native of Gossau is one of the most promising chefs in the German-speaking world. As a sous-chef to three-star chef Claus-Peter Lumpp in the Bareiss restaurant in Germany’s Baiersbronn, service excellence is the order of the day. That’s exactly what he likes: ‘The boss pushes me and encourages me to improve a little bit more every day.’ There was an immediate spark between the two of them at the job interview four years ago: ‘We’re very similar.’ At the time, the young chef consciously decided to pursue a particular style of cooking: ‘It’s definitely still old school here.’ In his menus, Claus-Peter Lumpp prepares the grand classics in a contemporary and masterful way and adapts the recipes according to the season. He fillets Breton turbot at the table and carves Mieral black-feathered chicken. Bettschen, who cooks the fish dishes, works with top-quality Breton fish – turbot, sole and sea bass. ‘Getting the best out of the best products’ is Lumpp and Bettschen’s motto. Fermentation and other trendy techniques would be out of place here. Instead, the young man from Switzerland is learning how to prepare all the different types of foie gras, debone quails and the fine art of sauces – from beurre blanc to crustacean sauce. This is perfect for him, as he is confident that ‘the grand classics are celebrating a comeback.’
Bettschen, who likes spending his free time gardening or cooking with friends, has seen enough of the world of big kitchens to know what he wants, despite his young age. At the age of 20, he went to Dubai, where he cooked at the Grand Hyatt, followed by stints at Bellevue Palace in Bern and Einstein in St. Gallen. As part of the scholarship offered by Andreas Caminada’s Uccelin Foundation, he was
not only able to get a glimpse behind the scenes at Schloss Schauenstein, but also at Tanja Grandits’ in Basel and Massimo Bottura’s in Modena. Nevertheless, he decided in favour of the Bareiss and his teacher Claus-Peter Lumpp. ‘Where else would I have the opportunity to learn so much craftsmanship?’ he says.
A few years ago, Bettschen got a large tattoo on his left forearm, showing a chef’s knife, various herbs and the words ‘Love&Passion’. Back then, his main goal was to get a Michelin star. Today, three-star standards define his everyday life. It seems like he has surpassed his own dreams.
WORDS PATRICIA BRÖHM
A legacy of luxury
Crafting Timeless Elegance and a Heritage-Driven approach from Concept to Creation, this passion has become the essence of Iconia Group, a multidisciplinary interior architecture company.
Every project is a collaborative journey, engaging clients – whether commercial or private homeowners –in exploring historical influences and iconic design elements. ‘When in 1996, I contributed to the design of the Lancia, Harmony & Invention exhibition, on the occasion of the Turin car manufacturer’s 90th anniversary, I discovered for the first time the charm of the industrial heritage and how the cult of design and beauty from the past could drive the brand in the future,’ explains co-founder Ottavio Di Chio.
The recent restyling of the Villars Palace in Villars sur Ollon has certainly been the most important example of this approach. A work completed hand in hand with the owners, the project made it possible to reopen the doors of this fantastic mountain destination, once again giving light to the lobby, ballroom, restaurant, theatre, spa and more than 120 rooms. The renovation was driven by a process of valorisation of the patrimony passing by the creation of classy and sophisticated atmospheres through reinterpretation of ornaments, wooden marquetery, marbles, precious stones, mosaics, refined fabrics and wooden furniture.
The lobby now showcases Iconia ’ s expertise with carefully selected furnishings that enhance the breathtaking Alpine views. Elegant details, such as wooden marquetry and marble accents, honour the Palace’s rich history, seamlessly blending heritage with modern luxury.
BRIDGING PAST AND PRESENT
As Iconia Group evolves, it is expanding into residential projects, applying its heritage-infused design philosophy to the creation and renovation of villas and chalets in Switzerland and abroad. This exciting venture reflects a dedication to honouring the past while embracing new opportunities, ensuring that every project embodies the essence of comfort and luxury living. Iconia remains committed to crafting exceptional environments that resonate with rich heritage and innovative spirit, inviting clients to experience spaces that are truly extraordinary. iconiagroup.com
A recent example of interior renovation is a charming Swiss villa with timeless allure, located on the picturesque Montreux Riviera.
The interior architecture of the Villars Palace, reminiscent of the Swiss mountains, evokes the region’s memory and conveys strong values of eco-responsibility and respect for cultural diversity.
Master craftsmanship and unadorned luxury
The success story of Kandahar begins in the 1930s, when master shoemaker Fritz von Allmen from Mürren found himself out of work during the off-season. To sustain his business, he started making ski boots for the local Kandahar ski racing club.
About 15 years later, the breakthrough came with the introduction of the first après-ski boot. This light and comfortable boot, lined with lambskin, kept feet warm even in adverse weather conditions and icy temperatures. The winter-ready boots, with their eye-catching design, quickly gained popularity both locally and internationally, attracting celebrities like Herbert von Karajan, Audrey Hepburn and Charlie Chaplin.
Since 1932, the name Kandahar has been synonymous with exclusive quality, craftsmanship and Swissness. The manufactory has honed its expertise over generations and continues to produce
high-quality, sustainable products. In 2022, the von Allmen family passed the Kandahar brand to the Müller family of entrepreneurs, ensuring the future of this traditional brand and its shoe production in Switzerland. In Sennwald, in the St. Gallen Rhine Valley, the shoes are still meticulously handcrafted in around 200 steps. This elaborate production process justifies the price of this Handmade in Switzerland product. Each Kandahar shoe consists of approximately 50 individual parts, still cut according to the original templates. Every step of the assembly involves manual labour, and all parts are produced in Switzerland. For over 90 years, the manufactory has continuously developed its production techniques, material properties and designs, maintaining a promise of excellence, dedication and quality.
The elegant and sustainable materials, such as suede, nappa leather, nubuck, horsehide and velour, give Kandahar boots their unmistakable design and offer maximum functionality. A rubber tread sole ensures a secure grip, while the insulating cork midsole effectively combats cold feet, even during prolonged periods on ice or snow. Worn soles can be replaced, ensuring long-lasting enjoy-
Kandahar shoes are renowned for their comfort, high quality and timeless elegance, continuing to stand for exclusivity and simple sophistica-
Left side below | Von Allmen's workshop for innovative craftsmanship.
Top | Fritz von Allmen recognised the needs of winter sports enthusiasts with the development of the revolutionary Alpina après-ski boot.
Left | Kandahar boots are comfortable and of high quality. They stand for exclusivity and simple elegance.
The value of paper
Hieronymus was a scholar and has become the epitome of medieval scholarship in lore. Albrecht Dürer portrayed him in deep contemplation in his writing room, surrounded by symbolically significant accessories of thought. This space for contemplation still serves as a guiding inspiration for the Hieronymus brand today. The passion for the black art of letterpress printing has been preserved to this day and the Swiss company dedicates its entire portfolio to paper and writing culture. Nostalgic? We asked Creative Director Thorsten Traber about this topic.
In a world dominated by digital forms of communication, writing by hand represents a special form of appreciation and sensuality. Understanding writing as culture means taking style and content equally seriously. This also has something to do with sophistication. Writing culture represents a moment of conscious pause, sensuality, as well as clarity reduced to the essentials.
When writing by hand, several senses are activated at the same time, which enshrines the written texts more deeply in the author's long-term memory. In addition, the motor and linguistic areas of the brain work together more efficiently, as we only use one hand when writing – in contrast to typing.
Writing a letter or card by hand shows thoughtfulness, great appreciation and a sense of depth. Writing something by hand means putting your personality into words. Situations that call for hand-written communications are often very emotional moments in a person's life – the birth of a child, a wedding or even the death of a loved one.
For our shop in Zurich, we wanted to create the atmosphere of an international concept store, a place of tranquillity but completely modern, offering a gateway into the unique world of paper and writing culture. Belgian architect Glenn Sestig also helped to achieve this with his fantastic design. With exquisite natural materials, subdued colour variations, bronzed mirrors, marble and a special travertine, we created an ideal stage and environment for customers to experience our products.
A wide variety of people are rediscovering the topic of paper and writing culture – in many different ways and across all age groups, regardless of whether they belong to an older generation that has been celebrating the culture of writing for decades or a younger generation that is discovering handwriting and the right paper as a new status symbol for itself. Digital media have become a matter of course in their everyday lives; however, they are turning to paper for the special moments.
My personal tip for Christmas: make time for the people who are important to you. This not only means choosing thoughtful gifts, but also writing a few personal words for them. A carefully selected piece of paper bearing a handwritten message often has greater meaning and is appreciated more than material gifts.
People also need to comprehend these special moments. In a world that seems to be speeding up more by the day, handwritten correspondence achieves something extraordinary, conveying a feeling of care, seriousness and, above all, personal appreciation. The fact that someone takes the time to do this is neither a fad nor something outdated. E-mail is akin to fast food, while written letters are haute cuisine. In 30 years' time, will we have the same feeling when we find an old text message as when we rediscover an old handwritten letter from a great love? Will such SMS messages even survive in any of the clouds?
lugano region beauty from the shores to the peaks
Whether it be nature lovers, bikers, culture vultures, foodies or wine connoisseurs, Lugano attracts visitors all year round with its Mediterranean climate and diversity and it's a mere two-hour train journey from Zurich!
The region boasts some 900 km of hiking trails and 400 km of mountain bike trails, as well as rustic farmhouses and marvellous lake landscapes. There are just under 40 museums in Lugano with a wonderful cultural programme and visitors can enjoy the flavours of the local traditional cuisine with its renowned Michelin-starred restaurants and fine local wines that will surprise even the most refined palates. Welcome to the South of Switzerland!
The cradle of great artists The region of Lugano is still the venue for a wide range of important exhibitions and cultural events. One of the most important cultural institutions is the LAC Lugano Arte e Cultura, which also houses one of the two exhibition venues of the Museo d'arte della Svizzera italiana (MASI), the art museum of southern Switzerland. The exhibition and event programme is always available on both venues' websites. masilugano.ch, luganolac.ch
Yves Klein and Arman. Le Vide et Le Plein The Collezione Giancarlo and Danna Olgiati is being showcased in the exhibition hall adjacent to the LAC. The collection – one of the most important in the Italian nouveau réalisme art movement and in international contemporary art – is presented twice a year in temporary exhibitions. From 22 September 2024 to 12 January 2025, the Collezione Giancarlo and Danna Olgiati will be showing Yves Klein and Arman. Le Vide et Le Plein and drawing a comparison of the works of these two French artists for the very first time. The exhibition project was designed by Mario Botta. collezioneolgiati.ch
New gondola lift at Monte Tamaro A new milestone has been reached in the over 50-year history of the familyowned company Monte Tamaro SA. The construction work, necessary to replace the entire gondola lift and its stations, was started in May 2024. The lift is planned to be reopened in June 2025. The new gondola lift will bring significant improvements in terms of accessibility, environmental compatibility and the landscape. montetamaro.ch
Lugano Bike Nr. 66 – Mountain Bike Route The Lugano region has the highest density of official mountain bike trails in Switzerland. Mountain bikers can freely explore the region in direct contact with nature on over 400 kilometres of marked and carefully maintained trails. Lugano Bike Nr. 66 Mountain Bike Route is one of the most beautiful routes in Ticino and takes cyclists around the Val Colla above Lugano, over the imposing Monte Tamaro and through the hilly forests of Malcantone. Alpine meadows, pastures and the three mountain huts of Pairolo, San Lucio and Capanna Monte Bar make the route special. luganobike66.com
Dine Around the Lugano region The new Dine Around experience encompasses the variety of the Lugano region's culinary offerings and allows you to enjoy a real culinary gastronomic experience in the 20 restaurants that are involved in the Ticino Gourmet Tour and in the four different offers – Gourmet, City Break, Nature and Pieds Dans l'eau . With the vouchers, you can try the various menus created by the restaurants, serving highquality local and delicious food. Further information is available at: luganoregion.com/dinearound-en
Non-alcoholic drinks are in vogue
Wine consumption is declining. Customers are increasingly requesting non-alcoholic drinks. The industry is also undergoing rapid development. Wine expert Peter Keller sheds light on the unstoppable trend, describes the innovations and explains why the catering trade needs to have non-alcoholic products.
WORDS PETER KELLER
Where does the trend for non-alcoholic drinks come from? Non-alcoholic beverages have developed from being a niche product to a rapidly growing market segment. This dynamic development began a good ten years ago and is primarily due to people becoming more aware of health and wellness issues. People are consciously looking for tasty alcoholfree alternatives to wine, beer or spirits.
Are there any innovative products that would meet these needs? Consumers are not just requesting banal fruit juices, but drinks that promise added value, as Victoria Banaszak, founder of the start-up ve-Refinery (ve-refinery.ch), which specialises in non-alcoholic drinks, explains. Natural, organic, low-calorie and low-sugar ingredients should be used, and possibly even fortified with vitamins and minerals. Authentic and innovative flavours are essential for ensuring customer satisfaction. Fermented drinks such as kombucha, kefir and non-alcoholic craft beers are also becoming increasingly important.
What does the customer structure look like?
It may come as a surprise, but the range of customers for non-alcoholic alternative drinks is astonishingly broad. It doesn't just include people who are teetotal, pregnant women or car drivers. Every consumer group is fond of nonalcoholic drinks, but none more so than the younger generation (Gen Z). Today, it is no longer a disadvantage from a social point of view to not drink wine or beer – it's quite the opposite, in fact.
How widespread are the drinks in the catering trade? Today, a good restaurant has to have an attractive range of non-alcoholic drinks. For example, in Restaurant Magdalena in Rickenbach (canton of Schwyz), which has been awarded two Michelin stars, the non-alcoholic drinks pairing option is more popular than the wine pairing. There is no drinks menu. The drinks are brought to the table as a surprise. The guests can guess what their glasses hold. This promises unique flavours for the guests to enjoy, including an elderflower granita, a verbena kombucha and a drink made from beetroot and cranberries, to name just a few examples.
Are there differences in quality? Wines (and sparkling wines) cannot yet be compared with their non-alcoholic variants. But thanks to new and improved technologies, non-alcoholic wines are rising in quality. Better methods of removing the alcohol, such as vacuum distillation and reverse osmosis, ensure that the original flavour and aroma are retained to the greatest extent possible.
Where can you get non-alcoholic drinks and what should you look out for? No serious wine merchant can do without a range of non-alcoholic drinks. The breadth and qualities vary greatly – just like the wine range. We also recommend contacting your trusted retailer for non-alcoholic variants. And the same also applies to wine – before buying, you should taste the product and see if it meets your expectations.
Difference between non-alcoholic wine and wine The range of non-alcoholic wines is constantly growing. The main differences in the wines are the aroma, flavour profile, mouthfeel, sweetness, acidity and finish. Wines benefit from alcohol, which adds complexity, a full body, depth and taste perception. Non-alcoholic wines, on the other hand, have a less intense flavour and a less pronounced aroma due to the absence of alcohol as a flavour carrier.
Where are these wines produced? The best facilities for non-alcoholic wines are in Germany. The company Kolonne Null has established itself as one of the leading producers. Similar products are also being produced in good quality in England. There is no production facility in Switzerland at the moment. As a result, local winegrowers are not yet in a position to produce alcohol-free wines. However, this could change in the medium term.
A pleasure for all the senses
A museum for the ears, trekking with llamas, saunas on Lake Zurich, world-class design and, of course, plenty of culinary highlights: discover four popular Swiss destinations from a different perspective with the travel guide from our food author Alexander Kühn - and enjoy the comfort of five Swiss deluxe hotels!
WORDS ALEX KÜHN
ZURICH WATCH OUT FOR TEMPTATION!
Some rooms at Mandarin Oriental Savoy in Zurich offer a direct view of Switzerland’s most famous chocolate shop: the main Sprüngli branch on Paradeplatz. However, temptation can also be found lurking inside the hotel. Head pastry chef Andy Vorbusch is one of the best in Europe, and anyone who has ever tasted his cheesecake served in a glass with strawberries, elderberry buttermilk foam and milk crumble will never forget the creation. The Savoy Brasserie & Bar also offers classic dishes such as salade niçoise , sole meunière and Zürcher Geschnetzeltes. At the fine dining temple that is the Orsini restaurant, discerning palates can look forward to enjoying first-class modern Italian cuisine – curated by two-star chef Antonio Guida.
Gourmet offerings can also be enjoyed at the top of the hotel: the 1838 Roof Top Bar was once the first of its kind and now shines in new splendour, making it the ideal place for a glass of champagne, a cocktail, a few oysters or creative dishes with an Asian touch.
The best way to burn a few calories is to climb the Grossmünster, with its 187 steep steps leading up to a viewing platform. It offers an unparalleled view of the city, mountains and lake in good weather. Speaking of the lake, it is also an attractive place to visit in winter – for ice bathing and refreshment after a sauna at Seebad Enge (seebadenge.ch) or for sweating on the sauna boat (bootsvermietung.ch). Zurich’s local mountain, the Uetliberg, is transformed into a winter wonderland with a speedy toboggan run when there is enough snow. The Jurablick restaurant (jurablick. com), with its tiled stove and homemade cakes, invites you to take a cosy break on the mountain. The heartbeat of Zurich’s nightlife can be found in the Langstrasse neighbourhood. This is also where you’ll find Charlatan, a wonderfully lively cross between a nightclub, bar and restaurant – run by the same team as the legendary Olé Olé Bar just a few steps away.
DON'T
MISS OUT!
Schwarzenbach: Founded in 1864, the shop in Niederdorf has its own coffee roastery and takes its customers on a wonderfully fragrant journey through time. The best vanilla from Uganda can be found here as well as dried Kaiser Alexander pears from Switzerland. schwarzenbach.ch
Bodega Española: An island of Spanish hospitality culture in Zurich's old town since 1874, right opposite the Schwarzenbach shop. On the ground floor, tapas are served from the glass counter, while the first floor offers traditional specialities from former star chef David Martínez Salvany. bodega-espanola.ch
Lotti: The perfect place for an uncomplicated lunch or an evening tavolata with creative dishes from the charcoal grill. Although located just behind the Bahnhofstrasse, it not only offers a quiet atmosphere but also many matured Swiss wines and excellent cakes and tarts. lotti-lokal.ch
At Orsini, the Mandarin Oriental Savoy's fine dining restaurant, chef Dario Moresco celebrates Michelin-starred cuisine with Italian DNA.
ANDERMATT ON THE TRAIL OF JAMES BOND
Andermatt is the fastestgrowing – and the most spectacular – wintersports destination in Switzerland. The Chedi Andermatt is located in the centre of the village. A true-toscale replica of an Aston Martin DB5 in the hotel’s lobby points to the fact that Andermatt was one of the filming locations for the James Bond classic Goldfinger. The Chedi boasts two top-class Japanese restaurants: The Japanese in the hotel complex and The Japanese at Gütsch at 2,300 metres above sea level. The masterminds behind the two
restaurants are ‘The Twins’ Dominik Sato and Fabio Toffolon, who have been awarded two Michelin stars since autumn 2023 (see profile from page 43). At Gütsch, you can enjoy their creations and sushi de luxe practically on the piste – with spectacular views included. Those returning to the hotel after enjoying wintersports in the ski region connected to the Grisons resort of Sedrun can relax in the 2,400 square-metre Asian-inspired spa, which also includes two onsen baths. Animal lovers can go llama trekking in the
From Andermatt with love. Sublime Japanese food creations on top of the mountain.
nearby village of Bristen (bristenlama.ch) and discover the beauty of the Maderaner Valley. Right at the entrance to Andermatt, the Devil’s Bridge amazes visitors from all over the world. It stands so boldly over the Schöllenen gorge and the Reuss that people in past centuries believed that the devil was involved in its construction.
TWIN PEAKS
WORDS CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE
A brilliant move for The Chedi Andermatt. A lucky coincidence for fine-dining guests. The twins Fabio Toffolon and Dominik Sato wasted no time in applying their distinguished culinary prowess to make Andermatt a top destination for foodies. The two executive chefs cook together as a dual team at The Japanese Restaurant . Their Modern Omakase Menu is a unique, top-notch experience. Flavourful, aesthetic and holistic. Guests can also enjoy the exquisite creations of top pastry chef Yoshiko Sato – Dominik Sato’s wife.
ʻElegance is an attitudeʼ
Fabio Toffolon is six minutes older than his twin brother Dominik Sato, who chose to assume the last name of his Japanese wife Yoshiko.
Their signature is extremely precise, flavourful, intense yet light, well balanced and highly inspiring.
Both chefs regard lightness and elegance as crucial. ‘A visit to us is like a tastefilled journey of discovery. It’s a complex overall experience, but stimulating and light,’ says Fabio Toffolon, describing what guests can expect. And Dominik Sato adds: ‘One dish intersects with another. From the first bite to the last, everything is intense but balanced.’
ʻIntensity and harmonyʼ
In fact, the portions are pleasingly small. Even after several superb dishes, you feel fine, and can hardly wait for the next surprising course. This is partly thanks to the perfectly timed service. The composition of the menu sequence brings the very best out of each course. For example, four appetisers, which are often served together in other top restaurants, are brought out one after the other. Toffolon explains: ‘We deliberately aim for maximum expression in every dish.’ Sato adds: ‘Our menu doesn’t start gently, then build up to fireworks at the end’. ‘Exactly,’ agrees Toffolon. ‘Every dish is a firework, but sublime and balanced.’ Their cuisine is also typified by a successful fusion of Japanese cooking techniques with the best regional and international ingredients.
This is also evident in the sauces. They are incredibly intense and flavourful, but as light as a vinaigrette.
The pair describe themselves as extremely ambitious. A bit like top athletes. ‘If we were footballers, you could say we don’t cook any differently here at The Chedi than we did before,’ says Toffolon. Sato picks up the theme: ‘But we used to play in the regional league. Now we’re in the Champions League, and we’re making the most of that.’
Their cuisine has been awarded two Michelin stars and 18 Gault&Millau points. But they are already – rightly – regarded as potential contenders for a third star.
Working as a team with the mindset of top athletes, pushing flat hierarchy and high goals.
Elegance, style and serenity in a classy, Japanese ambience.
ʻAlways aim for the topʼ
Entrance to a unique culinary experience and impeccable service.
Maximum expression in each dish with focus on every detail.
BERN FROM ALPHORN TO BAO BUNS
Play the alphorn once in your life! You don’t have to climb mountains to fulfil this dream – all you need to do is visit what is probably the most curious museum in the city of Bern. Located just behind the Zytglogge tower, the Klingendes Museum has a collection of well over 1,000 wind instruments from various eras, including an alphorn, which visitors can try their luck on, and a 19th-century trombone that looks like a dragon’s head. Why are we telling you all this? Quite simple! Because Bern is always a little different from what you expect. And this also holds true for its culinary offerings. The best place to eat an avocado tartare served with coriander and crispy rice or bao buns with pork belly and hoisin sauce can be found behind the venerable walls of the city’s only Grand Hotel. In addition to the Asian-inspired Noumi, the Bellevue Palace also offers a restaurant serving the great classics: at Brasserie Vue, the stars of the show are the Calypso prawn cocktail, brine meunière, sea bass in a salt crust and entrecôte double.
Left side top I The Bellevue Palace is located in the immediate vicinity of the Bundeshaus, the seat of the Swiss government.
Left side below | The Schweizerhof has one of the most impressive cigar collections in Europe.
Left side | The Schweizerhof is the only hotel in the city with a wellness area – sauna included.
Top I The Wiener Schnitzel in Jack's Brasserie is almost as famous in Bern as the Bundeshaus.
Below | The Schweizerhof is located directly opposite of the train station.
A large part of the menu offered by the brasserie is also available in the legendary Bellevue Bar, where many political pacts have been made. The Bellevue Palace is the official guest house of the Swiss Confederation.
The second icon of the Bernese hotel industry, the Schweizerhof, is located right next to the railway station. The culinary hotspot is Jack’s Brasserie, named after the long-time hotel manager Jack Gauer. Dozens of small brass nameplates adorn the upholstered benches, which reveal a range of big names from the worlds of politics, sport and show business who have already sat on them. When we
visit, we take a seat in the favourite corner of Italian film diva Ornella Muti. And what do you order at Jack’s? The Wiener Schnitzel, of course! Gault & Millau once voted it the best restaurant in the country. However, chef Wolfgang Schmidt can do a great deal more, mixing classic and modern ideas with a pinch of virtuosity. He serves prime boiled beef briefly fried with creamed spinach, horseradish, potatoes and salsa verde. He also combines secret cut beef tagliata with an open raviolo with ratatouille and wild herbs. After dinner, head over to the Cigar Lounge, where you will find what could be the most impressive selection of cigars in the whole country. Another unexpected extra in the elegant house is Bern’s only hotel spa - with a pool, sauna and steam bath.
DON'T MISS OUT!
Apfelgold: In this charming shop with an adjoining café, everything revolves around apples. They are used to make single-variety juices, crumble cakes, purées and cider. An apple paradise! apfelgold.ch
Werkhof: In the modern and no-fuss restaurant that is illuminated by plenty of natural light, only products from Switzerland are served on the plate and in the glass. Vinegar and cream are homemade here, as is the sourdough bread. To ensure that the range of products on offer is colourful and varied in winter too, a great deal of hard work goes into preserving goods in spring, summer and autumn. restaurantwerkhof.ch
Copain: Sourdough without any compromises! Patrice Bachmann bakes Bern's most delicious bread, as well as fantastic croissants, pains au chocolat and canelés. copain-brot.ch
Jack's Brasserie is a dining, living and reading room in one.
BASEL WELCOME TO THE CAPITAL OF CULTURE!
Where, if not at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, should you simply do nothing? From the historic rooms, which radiate cosiness and tranquillity, you can enjoy a unique view of the Rhine flowing by at a leisurely pace. Who needs a television? On the ground floor, which is connected to the other floors via the legendary leaning staircase (and a comfortable lift with a bench), pleasure reigns supreme. In the Brasserie (15 Gault Millau points), chef Thomas Schaefer steals the
show with contemporary interpretations of classic dishes (from lobster cappuccino and poached turbot to crêpes suzette flambéed at the table). In the Cheval Blanc, Peter Knogl (see chef’s portrait on page 76) creates culinary fireworks that are worth three stars in the Michelin Guide, while in the bar, Thomas Huhn (who is also a cigar expert) celebrates high cocktail culture. Basel is a mecca for lovers of art and design, and not only during Art Basel in June. The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen – a
20-minute tram ride from the Trois Rois – will be hosting the first major Henri Matisse retrospective in the German-speaking world for over 20 years until 26 January. This collection will feature around 80 major works by the great French painter. In Weil am Rhein, the first town on the German side of the border, the Vitra Design Museum offers a unique experience that focuses on modern design. One of the highlights is the Nike: Form Follows Motion exhibition, which is on show until 4 May 2025. The Museum Tinguely, designed by Mario Botta and located directly on the Rhine, houses the largest collection of works by Jean Tinguely, one of the most innovative and flamboyant Swiss artists of the 20th century. Switzerland’s most beautiful zoo is the place to marvel at nature in all its facets. The favourite baby animals at the Zolli are the four cheetah cubs and the little pygmy hippopotamus, who were all born in spring 2024.
DON'T MISS OUT!
Stadtbrennerei: Basel's most exclusive distillery is located in a former coach house behind Claraplatz. With a great deal of craftsmanship and expertise, firstclass high-proof spirits are produced here: from absinthe, alpine herbal liqueur and gin to poppy seed schnapps and vodka. The distillery's immediate neighbour is the Herz Bar, where the bartenders use the spirits to make creative cocktails. stadtbrennerei.ch
Ackermannshof: In Switzerland's best Italian restaurant, Flavio Fermi combines the feel-good factor of an Italian mama's kitchen with the precision of Michelinstarred gastronomy. His agnolotti dal plin with seasonally changing fillings are unbeatable. The restaurant also boasts a spectacular wine and champagne list! ackermannshof.ch
Xocolatl: Nowhere else in Switzerland can you find a larger selection of chocolate than at Maren Gnädinger's lavishly decorated shop. Thanks to the expert advice from the manager, shopping here is like a taking a short degree on the subject of cocoa. You can take home the recipe for the legendary tarte au chocolat on a beautifully designed postcard. xocolatl.ch
TAKE MY BREATH AWAY
THE SPA ON TOP OF THE WORLD
Shall we call it the crème de la crème, or does the spa world deserve its own seal of excellence?
There are various reasons I hadn’t yet made it to the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne, with its breathtaking views and beautiful spa. But this only proved that good things are worth the wait, and that sometimes, reality exceeds expectations.
WORDS STEFFI HIDBER
Below | Nebelmeer
Gazing upon a sea of fog
Top left | Little details, big impact: a mastepiece of spa design.
Can I start off this review by letting you peek behind the scenes here at H Magazine? Not even 24 hours after the announcement that the members of Swiss Deluxe Hotels had unanimously voted to add the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne as one of three new members in July 2024, I had already dropped my lovely editor here a text message saying: ‘When’s the soonest I can go?’. As a beauty journalist with years of experience, there was really only one hotel spa left on my personal bucket list. And now, wrapped in my hotel bathrobe and wiggling my toes happily towards Weggis (or are those twinkling lights Küssnacht am Rigi?), I sigh contentedly: I’m finally here at the Bürgenstock. And in all honesty, I don’t ever want to leave.
Determined to make the most of my three-day stay at one of Switzerland’s most luxurious resorts, I embark on a whirlwind of discovery, right after checking in. Our gorgeous room, the Contemporary Bay View Suite, with its inviting bay window and huge bathtub with an unobstructed view of Lake Lucerne, 500 metres below, would have to wait. On a private tour of the resort, I learn more about its glamorous history (Audrey Hepburn, James Bond and more) and discover the most popular spots for marriage proposals, which I’ll not mention here to make sure it’ll be a surprise.
Both the delicious dinner of salad and grilled lobster at Oak Grill and the next evening’s culinary tour of Asia at Spices Kitchen & Terrace were thrilling –but for me, delicious bookends to the heart of my visit: a wonderfully indulgent day at the Bürgenstock Alpine Spa.
As a copywriter myself, I must congratulate whoever came up with the Bürgenstock Alpine Spa’s slogan floating between water and sky, as there’s simply no better way to put it – especially if you’ve been lucky enough to nab one of the front-row pool loungers that offer an unobstructed view of Lake Lucerne.
Laid out on over 10,000 square metres spread out over three floors, the Bürgenstock Alpine Spa is not only one of the largest of its kind here in Switzerland, but one of the most beautifully designed wellness facilities I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. Even if you’ve only spent a few hours of your life on Instagram, you’ll probably have already seen the spectacular Infinity Edge Pool that is so popular among hotel guests and day visitors that I recommend a morning swim, if you want to avoid being an extra in someone’s TikTok. There’s plenty of room to spread out, though –and if it’s peace and quiet you’re after, you’ll find tons of nooks and crannies to unwind in. From the Alpine Spa Garden to various hammams, a floating chamber, the beautifully designed indoor swimming pool and various saunas, here you can both get lost – and lose track of time in the best possible way.
If, shockingly, your busy timetable doesn’t allow for an overnight stay at the Bürgenstock, the spa itself is honestly very much worth a day trip. The FullDay Alpine Spa Delight ticket for CHF 270.00 not only offers all-day access to the spa and all its facilities, but includes the direct boat trip from Lucerne to Kehrsiten Bürgenstock and the spectacular ascent via the Bürgenstock Funicular as well… which are, in my humble opinion, very much part of this unforgettable experience.
FLOATING BETWEEN WATER AND SKY
And as I still have to cram my wet bathing suit into my suitcase if I want to make the noon funicular trip back down the mountain, I’ll leave you with my last Bürgenstock insider tip. Whether you’ve arrived by public transport or car, you simply must pay the resort’s SkyBoutique a visit – if not for the lovely selection of niche perfumes, hand-picked from Parfümerie Hyazinth, then to take one last, breathtaking photo of you and the view from the freely accessible balcony, a small, glass-bottomed platform that thrills and chills in equal parts.
STEFFI’S SIGNATURE TREATMENT TIP: 111SKIN
BLACK DIAMOND NONSURGICAL FACIAL (90 MINS, CHF 390.00)
Luxury skincare brand 111skin, developed by a world-class plastic surgeon, Dr Yannis Alexandridis, is the culmination of three decades of surgical knowledge and innovative ingredients. The bespoke treatments include a number of medically inspired delivery methods… one of which I was lucky enough to experience during my Black Diamond facial.
Designed to soothe damaged, irritated skin, it was perfect for me, having just finished quite an intense course of microneedling treatments. I got to experience this beautifully calming treatment with gentle cleansing and peel, and a weirdly satisfying brush massage with an activating serum, designed to reset the skin’s natural healing properties. Finishing up with a black sheet mask for décolletage and face, the resulting glow is almost otherworldly.
CURATED BY STEFFI HIDBER
Beauty from inside
Simple and effective, Dr Vanessa Craig’s potent, Swiss-made collagen supplement is a multi-tasking formulation with essential co-ingredients to boost and protect collagen levels. And it’s free of aging ingredients like sugar or artificial sweeteners.
FORMETTA: THE ESSENTIAL COLLAGEN FORMULATION (30 pouches), approx. CHF 120.00
Did you know that up to 80% of your immune system is in your gut? These once-a-day capsules contain ten different probiotic strains, ginseng and vitamins B6 and B12 and target your digestive tract, support the nervous system and improve their connection to the brain.
AVEA BIOMIND (30 capsules), approx. CHF 49.00
Created by a British nutritionist who couldn’t find wellformulated supplements to stop her own hair loss, these prize-winning GLOWWA vitamins with Biotin promote healthy hair growth: I’m on my fourth month and can see the difference!
GLOWWA HAIR FOOD (60 capsules), approx. CHF 44.00
One of my favourite beauty-from-inside fusion products has got to be this smart supplement that combines probiotics and essential fatty acids in a formulation touted to calm sensitive skin and help with redness, too. Je l’aime!
AIME FRENCH GLOW (60 pouches), approx. CHF 37.00
Formulated for those life phases that just take a bit more energy, these 100% natural capsules by Swiss organic beauty pioneers Farfalla have a balancing, calming and stabilising effect on our nervous system, thanks to vitamin B12, guava extract, spirulina and chlorella.
Founded in 1917, the traditional company Leuchtturm, which is now in its fourth generation as a family business, can look back on over 100 years of experience in the manufacture of high-quality paper and stationery. The award-winning design products are characterised by functional details, excellent quality and a variety of colours. Leuchtturm1917 is guided by the conviction that writing by hand is thinking on paper. Thoughts grow into words, sentences and pictures. Memories become stories. The new colour collection in dusty rose, spring leaf, deep sea and spice brown are new additions to the range and inspire creativity and ideas.
The brand Elho was one of the pioneering forces in skiwear and sportswear. This success story is now set to continue with a visionary fusion of performance, innovative design and bio-based materials. – elhofreestyle.com
GÜBELIN
Shine bright
Sophisticated and bold! Crafted from platinum, the Sparks special edition bracelet features an elegant mix of grey and black spinels combined with eyecatching tanzanites.
– sparks.gubelin.com
H. MOSER X BUCHERER 1888 Timeless treasure
An extraordinary watch limited to 18 pieces. It features a captivating mechanism that highlights innovation and mastery in complex movements.
– bucherer.com
This stylish, fast and lightweight sports sled guarantees maximum riding fun and comfort in all snow conditions thanks to its wide runners.
– machski.ch
HERMÈS Comfy hours
This elegant cushion cover in tightly woven jacquard fabric made from merino wool and cashmere keeps its shape and is always soft and supple to the touch.
– hermes.com
This second photo book edition is a snapshot retrospective of a microcosm of personalities above the clouds that made Klosters an extraordinary place for over two decades. – fabriziodaloisio.com
The Galleria bag impresses with its heritage and artisan work, consisting of over 80 individual parts and assembled by hand. This Prada spirit leads to contemporary visions! –
The tourism board of St. Moritz paired up with the young Swiss fashion brand Lamarel. The effortless aesthetics make this capsule collection perfect for mountain escapes and city walks.
KANDAHAR Precious heritage
Every Kandahar shoe has been handmade in Switzerland for over 90 years. With its timeless design, the Cresta boot is a true classic.
– kandahar.swiss
The perfect size makes all the difference. This elegant small day bag is made in Italy from finest calfskin. It is a practical and stylish way to store your daily essentials.
– studiotondini.com
Crafted in fine merino shearling, this belt bag is characterised by the brandʼs iconic inlay technique. Inside, it offers plenty of space for your essentials and has an adjustable belt to find the perfect fit.
– louisvuitton.com
The refreshing cleansing foam refines the pores, removes impurities and deeply hydrates and activates the skin with rejuvenating and moisturising pure ingredients for a radiant complexion.
– beyond-skin.ch GUCCI
Gucci’s travel collection reflects its storied past while revealing a glimpse into the future. This hard-shell porter trolley made of silver-coloured aluminium is extremely resistant and stable. – gucci.com
Passion for writing
This elegant sculpture pen is carved from a solid block of the finest metal so that the cap and barrel form a seamless unit. – hieronymus-cp.com
The Wellsystem lounge with warmth and gentle power of the overwater massage activates deep tissue layers, improves the metabolism and relieves pain.
– ratio.ch
A hint of tea
Inspired by a peaceful walk of tranquillity and contemplation through an early morning tea plantation, this unique unisex fragrance was created to appeal to all your senses. The olfactory narrative combines the vibrancy of bergamot and peppermint with the softness of cashmeran and white musk. The individual components merge in a perfect alchemy to create a fresh and green-floral note with a velvety base.
– vancleefarpels.com
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
GEN Z AND ME: AN UNEXPECTED LOVE STORY
I grew up playing tag with my sister on the back seat of our Chevrolet station wagon without even knowing where the seat belts might be located, drank warm water out of our plastic hose outside and did what any other self-respecting child born in the early 1970s did: I followed my parent’s rules – and lied to them easily when I didn’t: Classic Generation X, right? Coming of age in a time when having unprotected sex would (surely!) have been a death sentence thanks to HIV, when listening to new CDs at the store was a prime flirting activity and ‘self care’ meant not blowing your cigarette smoke in your only non-smoking friend’s face made me resilient. And empathetic. And also weirdly world-weary: whatever will be, will be. So suck it up and make the best of it.
Now, at the ripe old age of 51, I’m a proud mom to two amazing textbook specimens of Generation Z. My daughters Mia and Lily, born in 2002 and 2004, respectively, show many of the traits people (okay, older people!) love to
hate. They were the first generation with (crappy) mobile phones. They learned to regulate their screen time themselves, because we were on our phones, too. They survived a pandemic in their most formative years without becoming TikTokers. They drink matcha lattes with oat milk. They shop for their clothing in vintage stores because we have already destroyed the planet for them by shopping at H&M, and they proactively protect their mental health by saying things like ‘I’m staying in tonight, going to that party won’t be good for me’. And while a part of me would absolutely enjoy riffing on them, too (both Mia and Lily currently declare that they’ll never work full-time jobs), I find myself quietly, but also intensely jealous of their self-assuredness.
I, on the other hand, spent my early twenties in a Bridget Jones-inspired quest to find the perfect boyfriend and husband while simultaneously launching a career in radio, always afraid of being ‘not enough’. Not skinny enough. Not smart enough. Not sexy enough. Not successful enough. What a gift it would have been if I had been able to set boundaries like today’s young adults can! Just imagine telling my parents that
I smoked. And even inhaled! How amazing it would have been, telling the creepy older men at work to keep their hands (and their comments) to themselves! And how thrilling the thought of falling in love with yourself first, before seeking everyone and anyone’s approval – or even worse, someone to ‘complete’ you? I’m equally to some extent made speechless by, and quietly envious of my daughters’ freedom to choose when to conform, and when to advocate for themselves, both in their private lives and at work and school.
Sometimes, I ask myself: Was I a helicopter mom who turned her offspring into special snowflakes, despite all my good intentions? We talk about this a lot at our dinner table, by the way: another sign of eye-level parenting that would have never been possible in my own youth. Everything is up for debate, and it’s honestly tiring at times. But in the end, my daughters know what they want, and aren’t afraid to ask for it. And yet, they’re grateful for the boundaries and rules we set for them, and let us know that, too. So for now, I choose to be inspired, rather than exasperated. By them. Dare I even call it belatedly ‘protecting my own peace’?
WORDS STEFFI HIDBER
THE NEW MONTREUX PALACE
Thousands of tiny golden leaves and dots are shining in the sun. I notice them even before I see the famous yellow stores above the balconies upon arriving at the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace.
Why? Because its iconic façade is all new and polished. Its intricate decorations have been restored one by one and now look like they were made yesterday.
‘We had to renovate this historic part of the building, so we thought to ourselves why not refurbish the rooms as well?’
This is the explanation given to me at reception when I ask why everything looks so glowing.
Upon entering my room, my expectations are therefore heightened. What
will it look like? I open the vaulted door and a smile comes across my face. The room is calm, flooded with light and decorated with funky little details: two small swans to open the coffee cabinet, bamboo in the bathroom and little birds flying over the bed. The modern, fourposter bed is too tempting not to jump on it. Here I go! I land safely on the soft duvet. All around, I see a lot of plugs and international sockets, a sign that shows me the young age of the room.
The pièce de resistance is in front of me: two spectacular terraces. I see the lake, the Alps and a pond with water lilies on the immaculately manicured gardens located below my room. There are statues of Ella Fitzgerald, Ray Charles,
Top left | The Fairmont Le Montreux palace logo over the whirlpool.
Below | The Montreux Jazz Café. On its right | the Fairmont Spa from below the skylight.
Left | The Fairmont spa, lit according to the time of the day.
Carlos Santana and many others. Passers-by go to read their names and stop for a moment to marvel at the famous palm trees of the Swiss Riviera.
After unpacking, I get changed and go for a short run, which provides me with an excuse to do a bit of sightseeing from the roofs of Montreux. Then I go to the lake again. I’ve read that running along the water spikes your happiness more than any other activity and I can see the hotel from almost everywhere. There’s no danger of me getting lost.
It’s now time to go back and I need a drink. I hear a vinyl crackle and then some jazz piano. It comes from the jukebox of the Lounge Bar, one of the two restaurants in the Palace. The fireplace is lit.
This is like time travel! I don’t want to leave this place. I drink, relax and then look at some of the music memorabilia and photos. Freddie Mercury’s Kimono is framed as a painting. OK, OK, time to go back to my room and shower. My wellbeing and refuelling weekend includes a dinner at La Terrasse du Petit Palais, another little Belle Époque gem, with a view over the lake and the Alps. I enjoy the cool atmosphere – this is where jam sessions take place and DJs come to perform for the Montreux Jazz Festival. After I pay and head on my way, a waiter comes running after me.
‘Wait! Are you Italian?,’ he asks. I answer in the affirmative. ‘Un moment’, he says in French. He comes back with a tiny ice cream as a gift, a tradition we had in Italy in the 1970s. I guess this was his little personal touch, something I hadn’t expected, especially as I can see that nobody else has been so lucky.
The day after is dedicated in its entirety to enjoying the spa. The 2,000 square metres it spans offer plenty to discover. I start with a swim in the indoor pool and also do a bit of cold therapy by swimming to the outside area. From here, I can see the lake again. I find myself shivering before heading to the hammam, where I enjoy a sensory shower.
Breakfast is served in the winter garden, which is once more flooded with light. A delicious mix of traditional and vegetarian/vegan options is on the menu. Most of the staff are female. One employee compliments my hair and we end up laughing like we’ve known each other forever.
One hour later there is a pilates lesson. There is no need to reserve in advance and of course I’m in. Some of the ladies are beginners like me, while others are quite advanced. I can’t help but compliment a lady in her 60s, who seems totally at ease and far more skilled than the rest of us. Since I have also booked a massage, I don’t have time to look at every single spa room. I therefore skip the sauna and infrared beds.
Finally, the highlight of the day: a full body massage. I tell my masseuse, Panayota, that I am a runner. ‘Are you also Gemini?’, she asks. I can’t believe it. Yes I am. ‘And you have pain here?’, she
ʻThis is where jam sessions take place and DJs come to perform at the Montreux Jazz Festival.ʼ
says, pointing at a specific area of my back. I am impressed. We laugh and we keep talking until she knows exactly what to do with me. What follows is an hour of pure bliss. I leave the treatment room fully regenerated.
When it’s time to check out, I am not sure if I have seen all the rooms of the Montreux Palace. I therefore decide to embark on a quick tour of the ballrooms. One can shoot a movie here – it’s a mini Versailles. In front of it is a big room with a grand piano. The precious parquet floor has also been restored. It boasts a beautiful hotel logo and is made in different shades of wood.
The Montreux Palace is the ultimate way to experience the area thanks to its unbeatable location and the way it mixes the traditional with modernity and the surrounding nature with impressive architecture. But what really feels good here is the warm welcome everyone receives – guests, staff and occasional visitors alike – and how you are listened to intently. Like the music of the festival, with a lot of soul and a brand new twist.
Image @laure_dussuet
Picture taken by Julius Hirtzberger
MONTREUX RUNNING TIPS
WORDS BEATRICE LESSI
Why head out on a walk, embark on a hike or go running in Montreux? Because your dopamine will thank you! Being outdoors in the Swiss Riviera offers the perfect way to do some sightseeing, complete with a bit of light training, or a hard session – depending on what kind of activity you are looking for. On top of that, you’ll also feel instantly happier. Here are my favourite spots:
SHORES OF LAKE GENEVA
The most picturesque walk or run in the area. You’ll get to see the water, the Alps, the statues and musical highlights over a distance of your choice. Turn around when you are tired – you can’t get lost. If you are able to run 10 km, start from the station, where you’ll have the opportunity to quickly admire the Belle Époque trains called MOB. From there, you can head to Villeneuve, some 5.8 km away, as part of this moderately challenging route. The area is also popular with birdwatchers.
THE STEEP VALLEY: CHAUDERON GORGE – LES AVANTS
A spectacular, scenic and well-marked hike that is rather challenging. At 4.3 km in length, it takes 1 hour 16 minutes on average to complete. However, it is certainly worth the sweat!
YOUR OWN FARTLEK
For non-runners: fartlek is a system of training in which terrain and pace are continuously varied. I once did it in Montreux, at my own pace, and absolutely loved it. Since the village is steep, I used the uphill sections to accelerate and then rest, while admiring the rooftops and, of course, the lake from above. Then I did some parts on the flat route along the lake. I explored the gardens and art slowly, before adding some hills again at the end. I was a tourist and a runner at the same time, and since the weather in the region is rather mild, this option is good in any season.
NATIONAL PARK ROUTE
A longer route (14.5 km) from Montreux to Les Avants, Sonloup and Le Cubly that offers a wide and spectacular view of the Alps and the lake. The route starts near the statue of Freddie Mercury and goes up to Les Avants and Sonloup. From the summit, the trail descends on the Sentier des Narcisses. Shortly after the summit of Cubly are the ruins of the Tour de Salausex. Upon arriving at Les Avants, you can go back with the funicular.
THE CHILLON CASTLE
Reach the iconic Chillon Castle from Montreux – follow the path next to the water and admire the beautiful route and the Alps. The Castle can be accessed directly from the city centre, but it is considered a waterside castle and is connected to the land by a bridge. It can be visited between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m., so perhaps you could take a well-deserved break and see the armour, the furniture and the beautiful decorations, or stay outside and admire the oval shape on the rocky island. Go back home after a trip to the past!
THE LAVAUX VINEYARDS
Another great location for a run or hike is the terraced vineyards of Lavaux. Of the six Vaudois wine regions, the Lavaux is the most spectacular, and has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status. A footpath of 32 km in length leads from Lausanne-Ouchy to Chillon Castle, so there’s plenty to choose from. A less challenging option is taking the train from Montreux to St. Saphorin, then doing a shorter hike to Rivaz.
DOMINIK G. REINER
WORDS KIKI MUELLER
IMAGES ELENA STENESS
Dominik G. Reiner arrives a couple of minutes late, straight out of a budget meeting. He strides across the lobby towards me, introduces himself with a wide smile, and enthusiastically shakes my hand. ‘Have we ordered coffee?’, he asks into the room as we sit down. A couple of minutes later, coffee is served – an espresso for me, an Americano for him. It is after 11 o’clock, after all, so milk is out of the question. ‘A matter of style,’ Reiner says. I like him immediately. It has been less than a year since Dominik G. Reiner left his long-time home Munich to take on the role of General Manager at Mandarin Oriental Savoy in Zurich. Reiner has been with the group since he started his first full-time job at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London. The last six years, he spent in his native Bavaria, running the show at Mandarin Oriental Munich. And now Zurich. He loves it here. ‘The city is fantastic, and so are the people. They seem even more open-minded and cosmopolitan than in Munich, if you ask me.’ Also, for adventurous types like him, he says, there’s no better place to be. Adventurous in theory, at least. Reiner hasn’t yet made it to the ski slopes, and the mountain biking he was planning to get into has so far remained just that: a plan. Work keeps him busy. Reiner shrugs. The time will come.
The city may be small, but Dominik G. Reiner finds plenty to love and admire about his new home Zurich.
Reiner’s current drink of choice: a Manhattan – ‘Now that I am here, I obviously mix it with a Swiss vermouth!’
The FC Bayern Munich jersey signed by Harry Kane will soon be framed and hung in Reiner’s man cave.
Talking to Reiner is as enjoyable as it is easy. Here is a man who is used to making conversation with strangers. Something that one learns in his line of work – or, in his case, something that one is born with. ‘When I enter a room or meet people, things immediately catch my eye. But I think it has less to do with my job than with a personal inclination, an interest in beautiful things, in people and good manners, in noticing small things.’ And as such, it is no surprise that when asked about his personal style, Reiner speaks with captivating passion. ‘I like to dress smartly, but with a certain level of coolness. In that regard, my time in Berlin certainly had a decisive influence on me. I prefer
wearing things you won’t find on the racks of any random shop in the city centre. Cool jeans, sweatshirts, or my Adidas x Gucci sneakers, which are certainly not completely mainstream. A touch of individuality is definitely important to me.’ The same goes when it comes to suits. The blue and white houndstooth jacket Reiner was wearing that day is by US-label Stitched. ‘I like my suits to be on the fashionable side, a bit unique, and a bit fun! I often wear patterns, especially at work.’ Another nod to his time in Berlin. ‘We were literally told not to wear classic suits in black or blue – unlike our highly esteemed owners at UBS across Paradeplatz,’ he says laughing. And adds: ‘Feel free to print that!’
A souvenir from Dominik G. Reiner’s time in Hawaii. And a hairstyle his wife still misses dearly, he says laughing.
After four years at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Reiner treated himself to his very first watch, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and had it engraved with the dates of his time in the British capital. He still wears it every single day.
But he is by no means a man opposed to classics. When asked about a dream money can buy, he doesn’t have to think long: ‘I would love to have outdoor furniture from Ligne Roset or Roche Bobois for our terrace overlooking Lake Zurich, knowing full well that my two young daughters might jump around on them from time to time or leave traces of their sausage sandwiches all over them!’ Sophistication is important, but Reiner knows when to let go. Case in point: Back in Munich he would venture to noble Dallmayr for his beloved coffee beans. In his new home and with a lack of time to find out about its more special addresses, Lidl in Horgen will do. For now, at least.
There are more pressing projects to dedicate time to. Setting up his man cave, for example. ‘I’m going to set up a small gents room on the ground floor, with a pool table and a small bar. And a big TV, of course!’ Being a true Bavarian, Reiner loves football. He got his first season pass for FC Bayern Munich at the tender age of 14. Now, with the stadium being inconveniently far away, it’s buddies and beer in front of a screen. Beer – or something a bit more unconventional: ‘My current drink of choice is my homemade Manhattan. In summer and going against all rules of good style, I like to drink it on ice and with three cherries.’ A bunch of guys watching football slurping fancy cocktails? Fear not, Reiner says. ‘We might start with Manhattans, but as soon as FC Bayern Munich has scored the first goal, it is time for beer!’
ʻAt Mandarin Oriental, we don't see ourselves as a classic grand hotel. That means that when it comes to fashion, you are allowed to be a little daring.ʼ
The view from the rooftop terrace over Zurich is one of the highlights of his new workplace.
The railway station in Zweisimmen in the Bernese Oberland only has seven platforms, yet a group of strikingly elegantly dressed winter travellers have gathered here. A designer from New York in a shiny brown fur blouson approaches us to make sure he’s in the right place – does the train to Gstaad leave from here? Yes, he’s right. His happy smile is as radiantly white as the snow-covered peak of the Rinderberg, which rises into the skies behind the village. A few minutes later, the GoldenPass Express, which runs between Lucerne and Montreux on Lake Geneva and passes through Zweisimmen, pulls into the station and the passengers spread out through the carriages.
Last night saw fresh snowfall in the Simme valley, and the chalets and farmhouses along the route are covered in a deep layer of snow. It almost looks as if they are sleeping under fluffy blankets on their gabled roofs. The legendary train line not only traverses the beautiful Saanenland and Waadtland, we are also travelling back in time, with the carriages of the Belle Époque train panelled with fine, shimmering reddish
A WINTER FAIRY TALE
wood, the passengers seated in velvety, petrol-coloured jacquard armchairs and their coats hanging on shiny brass coat hooks. While the train winds its way through the snow-covered mountain landscape, subdued and refined conversations can be heard in English, French and German.
WORDS ILONA MARKS IMAGES STEPHANIE FUESSENICH
Left side | Like a fairytale castle, the Palace Hotel towers over Gstaad.
Top | In winter, guests gather around the open fireplace for tea time or cocktails.
The illustrious group disembarks in glamorous Gstaad and above it the Palace Hotel towers like a white fairytale castle. The legendary town is also our destination – but only later, because first we will be staying on the GoldenPass Express, which runs on one of the most beautiful train routes known in Europe. This is all the more true on this sunny winter’s day, with its glistening slopes, the numerous streams and the forests dusted white. It’s just under half an hour from Gstaad to Rossinière – and on this 30-minute journey, we will not only cross the cantonal border from Bern to Vaud, but also a language border. A few kilometres after Saanen, the place names indicate that we’re now in French-speaking Switzerland: Rougemont and Flendruz are just two of the names of the places we travel past. A hot air balloon festival is currently taking
place in Château-d’Oex. Balloons in all colours of the rainbow and even a larger-than-life Emmi cow float in the cloudless winter sky.
Even before we reach the doll’s house-like railway station building in Rossinière, a view of a majestic wooden house unfurls between the fir trees to our right – the Grand Chalet, the largest of its kind in Switzerland. For more than a quarter of a century, its history has been interwoven with that of Rossinière, a village with a population of around 500 people. We get out to visit the chapel of the painter Balthasar Klossowski de Rola. ‘Balthus’, as he was known worldwide, spent the last years of his creative life in the small village together with his wife, the Japanese artist Setsuko Klossowska de Rola. Documentary films that bring the artist’s work in Rossinière to life, including one by Wim
The Saanenland lies under a thick blanket of snow.
Wenders, are shown in the chapel. And just a few steps away from the memorial is the chalet with the half-hipped roof, decorated with wood carvings and Bible verses. During Balthus’ lifetime, the European art scene came and went here; today, Setsuko and her daughter’s family live in the building’s forty rooms.
Back at the station, we board a train on the GoldenPass Express line that does not feature Belle Époque furnishings, but has large panoramic windows that round off towards the ceiling. It almost feels as if you are travelling in a convertible. In the late afternoon, we catch our first glimpse of Lake Geneva, which glistens golden in the light of the setting sun. The GoldenPass Express
GSTAAD PALACE HOTEL
Situated high up on a hill above Gstaad sits one of the last family-run five-star hotels in Europe. The Gstaad Palace is legendary. Opened in December 1913, it soon became the favourite hotel of the stars: Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Grace Kelly, Roger Moore, Richard Gere, Princess Diana, Elton John, Rod Stewart and Madonna loved and still love the luxurious hotel, and Michael Jackson once even wanted to buy it. The list of illustrious and royal names who continue to return regularly goes on and on. Today, the elegant Gstaad Palace is managed by Andrea Scherz. He is part of the third generation of the family who founded the hotel.
glides down gentle hairpin bends to Montreux. We reach the end of the line in the twilight. For the return journey to Gstaad, we simply stay on the train, which leaves the station in the opposite direction a few minutes later. Winter night has now fallen and the journey through the dark tunnels and forests exudes an air of adventure. Shortly before half past eight, we arrive in Gstaad, take a taxi to the Palace Hotel and sink happily into our starched pillows. A horse-drawn sleigh ride in the snow-covered valley of Lauenen is on the agenda for tomorrow, during which we will experience the winter wonderland again – this time it will be al fresco, snuggled up in sheepskins.
Top | The idyllic train journey passes through a few small villages.
Left | The rooms at the Bellevue Hotel Gstaad are
LE GRAND BELLEVUE GSTAAD
Le Grand Bellevue is located in a small park in the centre of Gstaad, just a one-minute walk from the promenade. The hotel proves that simple elegance and Swiss authenticity are just as compatible as a relaxed atmosphere and maximum luxury. The owners, Davia and Daniel Koetser, have set themselves the goal of creating something unique with their hotel. The mission has been a success. Who else has an in-house tea sommelier and offers their guests the chance to enjoy meals sitting on hay bales in the park, take outdoor Qigong classes or watch their favourite film in the hotel's very own cinema? It even has its own yacht club and a spa offering every treatment conceivable. There are truly numerous reasons to spend as much time as possible at Le Grand Bellevue. However, should you wish to explore the beautiful surrounding countryside, Daniel Koetser will be happy to lend you his stylish Bentley S3, which once belonged to Sir Roger Moore.
Left side | Author Ilona Marx in one of the GoldenPass Express panorama carriages.
decorated in warm colours.
suite talk
WORDS S. HOTTINGER-BEHMER
There’s a reason the term Presidential Suite carries such weight in the world of luxury travel. Born out of a necessity to host dignitaries and heads of state in a manner befitting their status, these suites weren’t just about providing space; they embodied the prestige and gravitas associated with their respective occupants. In some ways, they’re not just places to stay—they’re backdrops to diplomacy, cultural exchange, and occasionally, highstakes negotiations. The presidential suites of today continue that tradition, offering both privacy and spectacle with the added touch of contemporary design and cutting-edge amenities that appeal to global travellers. At La Réserve Genève, the Presidential Suite carries this legacy forward, not by shouting its status but by quietly perfecting every detail with its particular blend of timeless luxury.
The story of La Réserve itself is one of transformation. Since its opening in 2003, under the vision of hotelier Michel Reybier, the hotel has become more than just a place to stay; it’s a firm fixture in Geneva’s hospitality scene, a place that feels both intimate and expansive. Much of its charm lies in how it brings together two worlds—the urban sophistication of Geneva and the tranquillity of a remote African lodge. This is no accident. The design is steeped in Reybier’s passion for creating places that evoke the idea of a ‘lost
paradise’, where luxury and nature coexist in perfect harmony. It’s a place that attracts an eclectic mix of global travellers, combining the calm of a secluded resort with the vibrancy of a cosmopolitan hub, making it a cornerstone in Geneva’s thriving social scene.
The Presidential Suite at La Réserve Genève, spanning 124 square metres, is as much a retreat as it is a stage. It’s a suite that doesn’t scream for attention but rather seduces with its quiet grandeur. Decorated in warm tones and rich textures, it features a spacious living room, a dining area for up to ten guests, and a king-size main bedroom, feeling more like a private residence than a hotel suite, exuding a sense of warmth and tranquillity. Double-height windows offer views of the surrounding parkland, flooding the spaces with natural light. For guests requiring additional bedrooms, the suite can easily be connected to neighbouring rooms, making it ideal for families or high-profile visitors who value discretion.
La Réserve Genève manages to be many things at once: a retreat, a hub of activity, a place to see and be seen, and yet, somewhere deeply private. In the Presidential Suite, it all comes together – a microcosm of the hotel’s unique blend of luxury, eccentric design, and discretion. It’s a world unto itself, designed to leave an indelible mark on anyone fortunate enough to call it home, if only for a night.
reasons
to leave the suite: 3
1. Epicurean East
At Le Tsé Fung, Switzerland’s only Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant, an exceptional dining experience awaits. Set in a red velvet and black lacquer setting reminiscent of 1930s Shanghai, the restaurant offers a journey of refined flavours masterfully created by chef Frank Xu.
2. Oasis of Calm
The Spa Nescens is a sanctuary of scientifically backed wellness and holistic programmes designed to revitalise and rejuvenate. Whether you want to trim and tone, relieve stress, or relax, the spa’s state-of-the-art therapies and serene environment provide the perfect escape.
3. Glamorous Crossings
For a touch of dolce vita, hop aboard the elegant Motoscafo for a scenic cruise into Geneva. Between April and September, this stylish boat ride is complimentary for hotel guests, whisking them from the hotel’s private dock to the heart of the city in just minutes.
Heinz Winkler taught me to try everything that leaves my kitchen every day.
PETER KNOGL
Spoons full of happiness
Peter Knogl has transformed the Cheval Blanc in the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois in Basel into one of the best classic restaurants in the world. When you talk to him, you quickly realise why this is the case.
WORDS ALEX KUEHN
The sauce spoon is the most important utensil when sitting down to eat at Peter Knogl’s table. This is because it would be sacrilege to waste even a drop of one of his sauces. Knogl succeeds in enriching the great French classics with Asian and Mediterranean flavours in such an exciting way that you mourn every creation you’ve eaten – and wistfully scrape up its last remnants with said sauce spoon. But when the next dish arrives, your eyes light up again and you find yourself shuffling your feet under the table in anticipation.
The Michelin Guide honours Knogl’s restaurant, the Cheval Blanc in Basel’s Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, with three stars, and Gault-Millau also awards it the highest rating: 19 points. However, the biggest compliment comes from a colleague.
Benjamin Parth, 5-toque chef from Restaurant Stüva in Ischgl and usually not at a loss for critical words, says that he has eaten at Knogl’s restaurant almost twenty times and is always enraptured by his creations.
The famous red mullet with crispy scales, saffron sauce, a tomato vinaigrette and black garlic brings together everything that characterises Knogl’s cuisine: complexity combined with straightforwardness, a perfect balance, an unerring confidence when tasting the food, the highest demands on the product and an exciting mouthfeel. To make the scales edible and crispy, Knogl places them on a grid and pours hot oil over them. A welcome side effect is that the fat from the fish is rinsed away and – unlike in the pan – does not settle.
If you speak to former members of the Cheval Blanc team about Knogl, they remember a strict and demanding boss, but one who demands the most of himself and passes on an enormous wealth of knowledge to everyone involved. Dominik Sato, now the culinary mastermind at the 2-star restaurant The Japanese in The Chedi hotel in Andermatt, for example, says that Knogl had been the best teacher imaginable for sauces and fish.
Hardly any other word fits Peter Knogl better than ‘uncompromising’. Every plate that leaves the kitchen has to pass his watchful eye. Day-long absences, which are becoming increasingly common among the stars of the scene, are out of the question for the head of Cheval Blanc. And if a delivery does not fully meet his expectations, he has it returned immediately.
Here is a little anecdote aside: Knogl discovered two of his employees in the scullery of the Trois Rois. This is down to the fact that he always looks beyond the obvious solution with his attentive eyes. Ahmad, who had to flee Afghanistan to escape the Taliban, has been at Cheval Blanc for five years and coordinates the service processes from the kitchen; John, who comes from South Sudan, looks after the guests at the table with a great deal of expertise and warmth.
side top |
Left side below | The jalapeño foam with red prawns awakens the senses with acidic notes and a tingling spiciness.
Above | Perhaps the best fish dish in the world: red mullet with crispy scales, a saffron sauce, a tomato vinaigrette and black garlic.
Below | The delicate macaron featuring duck liver, orange and garam masala melts in the mouth.
Knogl sources the fish for his restaurant exclusively from France. ‘The conditions in Brittany are excellent and the fishermen are very careful with their catch,’ he explains. In addition to red mullet, he particularly loves turbot, which he serves with tomato and basil, for example, but he is not a huge fan of John Dory. ‘It’s not because I don’t like the fish, but because it’s hard to get it in the required quality and the flavour is affected if it is left to stand at the pass for a few seconds too long.’ At home, however, Knogl treats himself to a John Dory. ‘I serve it straight from the pan to the plate.’
Knogl, perhaps the best classical chef in Europe, grew up in Deggendorf, Bavaria, as the child of a farming family. From as early an age as six years old, he had to help out on his parents’ farm before school and absorbed the idea that if you want to achieve something, you have to work for it. Of course, even someone as passionate and hardworking as Knogl needs to relax from time to time. When he does, he travels to his former adopted home of Spain (‘I lived there for over ten years’) and enjoys being close to the sea. ‘I’ve always felt drawn to the sea,’ he says, ‘both as a person and as a chef.’
Left
The magnificent table at the centre of the restaurant is said to have been a gift from Napoléon Bonaparte to Queen Marie Antoinette.
Geschichten, Insights und Rezepte aus der Spitzengastronomie –jetzt zum Kennenlernpreis von CHF 33.– für 3 Ausgaben. (Ausland zzgl. Portokosten) Jetzt bestellen! www.marmite.ch/abo
CHEF’S FAVOURITES
ELKANO
Spain is my second home. I love the country as well as its cuisine. The Elkano restaurant in Getaria near San Sebastian serves the best turbot in the world. It is grilled over charcoal and never fails to delight me.
LASARTE
I have been going to Martin Berasategui's restaurant in Barcelona for 15 years now. I go there at least twice a year and enjoy the three Michelin-starred cuisine to the full.
COCINA HERMANOS TORRES
Javier and Sergio Torres' restaurant in Barcelona boasts a great atmosphere and fantastic cuisine that more than deserves its three stars. Guests sit around three large cooking islands and can watch the dishes being prepared.
PLÉNITUDE
For me, Arnaud Donckele is the best chef in the whole of France. His restaurant at the Hotel Cheval Blanc in Paris was awarded three Michelin stars in 2022, while La Vague d'Or in St-Tropez,
where he is also in charge of the kitchen, has held the same number of stars since 2013. What an achievement!
BASEL MARKETPLACE
This is my favourite place to go early in the morning. I really enjoy walking between the stalls at the weekly market and seeing which vegetables are on offer, providing a wonderful reflection of the respective season.
RAMAZZOTTI
I like to take a little culinary siesta in this charming restaurant behind Basel's Marktplatz before we start our evening service at Cheval Blanc. The menu features a great many Italian classics, and there are almost 30 different pizzas to choose from.
WIESENGARTEN MUSETTI
Situated in a pretty little house in Riehen, this restaurant is another excellent establishment serving Italian cuisine in the Basel region. In summer, you can sit in the garden in the shade of the old linden trees.
CONCENTRICALLY ECCENTRIC
A real revelation. From the outside, it looks very much like an ordinary beetroot. But once cut open, the Chioggia beetroot springs a surprise with its characteristic pattern - hypnotic pink rings. Hailing from the wild beet family, and later sugar beet, this is a traditional original variety that has been cultivated in the small fishing village of Chioggia near Venice since the 16th century. These days, it is also grown outside of Italy. It is harvested from August. After this, it can then be easily stored until spring, and so can be used to enhance winter cuisine.
Its taste and texture also differ from those of red or yellow beetroot. The Chioggia beetroot has a softer consistency. It has a more complex flavour that combines mild sweetness with a slightly bitter finish, especially when eaten raw – as it really should be. Because its one small flaw is that it loses its beautiful pattern when cooked.
To show off the distinctive ring pattern in all its glory and make it look ‘instagrammable’, it’s best to slice this vegetable horizontally, not vertically. But it also unfolds its graceful charms when cut into irregular, small angular pieces.
My favourite dish is a flower of Chioggia beetroot in a sweet and sour beetroot puree. To make this, peel the Chioggia beetroot and slice it very thinly. Cover with water and white balsamic vinegar (or rice vinegar) in a 1:1 ratio and marinate for at least one hour. To serve, put the beetroot puree on a plate with a serving ring. Shape the Chioggia beetroot slices into a funnel and insert the thin end into the puree. Spoon the sauce of buttermilk, oil and white balsamic vinegar around it.
Culinary delights & essentials
CURATED BY KATKA GRIESBACH
SKNIFE PRECISION CRAFTSMANSHIP AT ITS BEST!
The Swiss knife maker sknife, based in Biel, has been writing a success story for over 20 years now. Damask knives are the premier class of kitchen knives and are precisionmanufactured. Sknife uses corrosion-resistant torsion damask to produce its pocketknives. This is one of the most sophisticated forms of damask steel forging. In addition to the classic folding process, the material is also twisted. The full damask version of the pocketknife is made with over 1,600 layers, while the etching then creates this filigree pattern. For all lovers of bling-bling, there is an extravagant version with a blade back set with 51 diamonds. If you would like to experience this masterful knifemaking art up close in Biel take part in one of the guided tours that take place every two months.
The Ettore Sottsass nutcracker takes shape from a play of contrasting volumes and colours and tells a timeless story of lightness and profound elegance.
– alessi.com
ANGOSTURA BEST KEPT SECRET
With this 200-year-old secret recipe, originally prescribed as a medicinal tonic, this bitter now adds the necessary spice to new cocktails and food creations.
AT VERLAG THE RICHNESS OF SIMPLICITY
Italian «cucina povera» contains everything that is important for a contemporary and authentic cooking culture. Claudio Del Principe shows how to prepare simple and satisfying dishes.
“alla buona” Cucina povera –contemporary dining culture by Claudio Del Principe
– at-verlag.ch
THE TINY FACTORY MORNING CRUSH
This fresh, crunchy and delicious granola muesli is enriched with the best dark Swiss chocolate pieces and will delight all muesli fans of the sweeter variety.
– tinyfactory.ch
A FAMILY AFFAIR
With its flavours of white peach, pear and flowers, this prosecco reveals its fresh and refined character with a symphony of fine bubbles.
– jaya-prosecco.com
– angostura.com DA VITTORIO
MEDITERRANEAN DELICACY
The slow and skillful cooking by the Da Vittorio chefs creates the uniqueness and peculiarity of the tomato sauce par excellence.
– davittoriogift.com
HERMÈS BAR STORIES
This exclusive cocktail trunk in ash wood and calfskin has been carefully crafted using expert techniques and impresses with its elegance and simplicity.
– hermes.com
Five tasty drinks
WORDS PETER KELLER
Pleasure without any regret: Nowadays, drinking non-alcoholic drinks is considered good form and is no longer frowned upon. Even in renowned gourmet restaurants, a suitable alternative to wine is a natural pairing for a multi-course meal. Not having anything to offer here will lose guests – and turnover.
There’s no denying that drinking a fine wine is an exceptional experience. Take, for example, a complex and mature Bordeaux or an elegant Burgundyheavenly. Nevertheless, there are an ever-increasing number of alternative non-alcoholic wines. Do they taste nice? The world of non-alcoholic wines has been bleak for a long time, some might even say dreadful. You couldn’t even get drunk from it!
But times have changed. Thanks to new technologies and passionate inventors, many things have changed for the better, and the quality of non-alcoholic wines (and sparkling wines) has risen at
the same pace. This goes hand-in-hand with the trend towards healthy and sustainable nutrition.
However, the world of non-alcoholic drinks does not consist exclusively of alternatives to wine. The industry is extremely innovative because customers are not simply looking for sweet, boring alternatives. For example, there are directly pressed fruit juices with a brilliant acidity available, providing a special experience. Fermented drinks such as kombucha and kefir promise complex, flavourful experiences, and experimental sommeliers in hotels and restaurants are creating exceptional cocktails – containing no alcohol whatsoever and without the prospect of a hangover the next day.
We have selected five non-alcoholic drinks for you to discover. They demonstrate the diversity of this world and are the best evidence that you don’t always have to order wine, beer or spirits. The future is alcohol-free.
The base wine comes from the German wineproducing region of the Moselle valley. The alcohol is extracted at just 28 degrees thanks to vacuum distillation. The result is a dry, tart wine with beautiful fruit and fine acidity. An impressive, alcohol-free alternative, even for Riesling fans. CHF 17 | smithandsmith.ch
This innovative beverage from Denmark is made from various green teas and lemons. The result is worth more than just a sip. The sparkling tea is finely effervescent, surprisingly complex in terms of its aroma with notes of apples and citrus fruits, fresh on the palate, light, complex and relatively long-lasting. It's ideal as an aperitif or paired with fish dishes. CHF 24.50 | vinothek-brancaia.ch
Obsthof Retter from the Austrian region of Styria is one of the leading producers of directly pressed fruit juices. Only high-quality fruit is used for its unique products. It's a must-try drink as reflected by it properties: typical of the variety, intense aromas, brilliant acidity, only slightly sweet, powerful, beautiful length. It's a perfect alternative to a wine pairing and goes perfectly with cheese. CHF 31.50 | moevenpick-wein.com
SPARKLING NOUGHTY NON-ALCOHOLIC SPARKLING CHARDONNAY, THOMSON & SCOTT, ENGLAND
The Chardonnay grapes for this sparkling wine are organically grown. The vineyards are located in southern Spain. No flavourings or sugar are added to the drink. The wine is dry, finely sparkling, fresh and has a lingering aroma and taste. It doesn't always have to be champagne.
CHF 19.90 | ve-refinery.ch
PLAYFUL AND FLORAL FRENCH BLOOM LE ROSÉ
This alcohol-free sparkling wine is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Behind the project is the obviously healthconscious French model Constance Jablonski, who has a partnership with the FrèrejeanTaittinger champagne family. The result is a high-quality, pink-coloured, delicate sparkling wine with fruity, floral notes that is fresh, elegant, subtly sweet and slightly tart on the palate. Try it with a fish dish.
CHF 37 | bauraulacvins.ch
A snow-white
gourmetparadise
St. Moritz is booming like never before. Not least because of the cosmopolitan gastronomy which attracts guests from all over the world. They are wooed by traditional grand hotels with international star chefs and exquisite product quality.
WORDS PATRICIA BROEHM
SUVRETTA HOUSE
The Grand Restaurant in the noble building, with its original wood panelling, imposing Murano glass chandelier and flickering candles, is a sight to behold every evening. The festive atmosphere has remained unchanged since 1912. For dinner, the gentlemen wear a dark suit and tie, while the ladies are festively dressed. Chef Fabrizio Zanetti, who presides over 30 (!) chefs, creates a new daily menu every night. There are almost always dishes that celebrate great savoirfaire. For example, an ultra-creamy egg royale with tasty champagne beurre blanc, or the Suvretta House pithivier: Bresse quail and goose liver, wrapped in a chard leaf with a poultry filling and baked in fragrant puff pastry. The house classics from the extra menu are particularly popular with regular guests. Atlantic sea bass in a salt crust, Bresse chicken or côte de boeuf are prepared for two and filleted or carved at the table right in front of the guests. A celebration of traditional craftsmanship! A highlight for dessert is the crêpe suzette, which is also prepared at the table.
A popular alternative to the main attraction is the cosy Suvretta Stube with its sun terrace, where first-class Swiss specialities are served – steak tartare is skilfully prepared at the table by maître Kurt Walters (who has been with the hotel for 50 seasons).
The trendy Langosteria in the centre of the Salastrains ski region is an import from Milan. It serves a large selection of high-quality fresh seafood. Be sure to try the warm seafood salad, pleasantly prepared in a no-nonsense fashion, and the paccheri with sea bass for two. langosteria.com
LANGOSTERIA
Above | The Grand Restaurant at Su-
House offers a sumptuous meal every evening.
Langosteria is the latest hotspot on the Salastrains ski slope, especially popular at lunchtime.
vretta
In Nobu Matsuhisa’s worldwide restaurant empire, La Coupole – Matsuhisa in the noble Grand Hotel is one of the establishments worth visiting the most. The spacious room is covered with a glass dome and has a cosy, contemporary and cosmopolitan feel with its dark wood panelling, red leather armchairs and impressive vintage bar. The best seats are of course at the sushi counter, where you can watch the chefs slice sashimi with nimble fingers and prepare carpaccio of top-quality Kagoshima A 5 Wagyu beef with olive oil, yuzu juice, pepper and dried miso to create a melt-in-the-mouth delicacy. Other memorable dishes include yellowtail mackerel sashimi with a palate-tingling jalapeño spiciness as well as sea bass with fruity yuzu notes and shiso. From the grill comes perfectly medium-cooked fillet of beef with truffle teriyaki, vine tomatoes and sliced radish. And, of course, we shouldn’t forget the Nobu classic – black cod miso. Marinating the fish in the Japanese seasoning paste gives it its powerful umami taste and the very special, salty-sweet flavour.
Nobu is in good company at Badrutt’s Palace, which houses around a dozen restaurants and international pop-ups during the current winter season.
The atmospheric and historic Chesa Veglia farmhouse (built in 1658) in the heart of the village belongs to Badrutt's Palace and is home to three restaurants. La Dama Bianca, a white pizza with taleggio, buffalo mozzarella and black truffle, is a big hit in the hayloft badruttspalace.com
Nobu Matsuhisa, the grand master of Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei cuisine, showcases his culinary expertise here.
Every winter, Da Vittorio, one of the best restaurants serving contemporary Italian cuisine, guests behind the listed façade of this hotel. The restaurant is run by the Cerea family from near Bergamo and has been awarded three stars. Enrico Cerea, who everyone just calls Chicco, doesn't cut any corners in the mountains; fish is delivered ultra-fresh twice a week from Italy's fish markets, for example. And, of course, the legendary ‘Paccheri da Vittorio’ (a flat pasta) is also served here, prepared directly at the table with plenty of Parmesan cheese. ‘We use the three best tomato varieties in Italy, San Marzano, Pachino and Piccadilly from Vesuvius,’ says the chef. Regular visitors to the
restaurant, which is always fully booked, give the kitchen ‘carta bianca’. In return, they get succulent turbot, a large fish from the Tyrrhenian Sea, with yuzu ice cream and roasted cabbage. Or the ‘Amatripesce’ spaghetti, a tongue-in-cheek adaptation of Amatriciana, which instead of meat contains everything from dried cod to tripe, boiled down to a delicacy with onions, chillies and tomatoes.
A second Italian chef has recently joined the hotel: Sicilian-born Salvatore Frequente, known from his work in Ascona, delights guests at the Grand Restaurant with specials such as the Alpine duck for two, which is carved directly at the table. carlton-stmoritz.ch
Homemade pasta, hand-picked wines and plenty of good vibes: La Scarpetta, formerly a shoe shop, is a cult pub , which is also very popular with the locals. The menu includes antipasti and pasta del giorno, with every plate a feel-good dish. la-scarpetta.ch
LA SCARPETTA
The famous Engadine nut cake has a long tradition here. Opened in 1894, the Hanselmann Konditorei with its beautiful sgraffito façade is a popular destination for guests from all over the world. Enjoy some coffee here with a view of Lake St. Moritz and be sure to try a few handmade chocolates with it! hanselmann.ch
HANSELMANN HATECKE CHASELLAS
At lunchtime, the sun terrace of the Chasellas is predominantly occupied by skiers, while in the evening, young chef Marco Kind conjures up sophisticated gourmet menus in a rustic ambience, ranging from briefly braised sea bream in a passion fruit broth to risotto with saffron, lime and scallops. chasellas.ch
Left side | Paolo Rota serves exceptional Italian cuisine at Da Vittorio, with a special focus on fish and seafood.
Left side | The DaVittorio St. Moritz is located on the ground floor of the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz and welcomes guests in a colourful atmosphere.
Below | Ludwig Hatecke’s butcher’s shop is iconic in the Engadine, with the rock-matured Bündnerfleisch being a top seller.
A butcher's shop can look this stylish! The puristic interior design of Bacharia Hatecke with its adjoining bistro fits the philosophy of the passionate craftsmen: Engadine specialities such as Salsiz and Bündnerfleisch are produced from local animals and don't contain any additives. hatecke.ch
A Peruvian restaurant in the middle of the Alps? That’s right, and it was designed by London star designer Luke Edward Hall with bright colours and funky art pieces! Claudia Canessa has made a name for herself in the Engadine with her inspired Andean cuisine, so it is only logical that the Kulm has customised the Amaru to suit her. The restaurant is fully booked almost every evening. Guests know that the chef prepares her very personal mix of Peruvian and Asian inspirations à la minute. First and foremost, her signature ‘Don Ceviche’: ultra-fresh sea bass with tiger’s milk, red onions, lime chilli pepper, coriander and sweet potatoes. She fills empanadas with prawns, ginger, spring onions, chilli and tamarindo rocoto, served with spicy Thai salsa. And a pisco sour to go with it!
The Kulm also has a real world star in its ranks: Mauro Colagreco took over the Kulm Country Club last winter. Under his leadership, the former ice pavilion, reimagined by star architect Sir Norman Foster, is decidedly ‘casual’. The focus of the upscale bistro cuisine is on mountain terroir, specialising in cool vegetable dishes and steaks cooked on a Josper grill. kulm.com
Claudia Canessa’s new Amaru is tailored to her inventive Latin American cuisine with Asian influences. World-renowned chef Mauro Colagreco also cooks at the Kulm Country Club.
The Magic of Dom Pérignon
WORDS DAN ROZNOV
Call me a wine snob but to me, nothing is sillier than seeing people pop Dom Pérignon and spray it around as if it were air freshener. The deluxe blasphemy continues as they sip the holy juice at a frosty 5°C from flutes, which totally over accentuate its acidity. Or pair it with strawberries, the most unsuitable food to go with champagne ever. Why spend top dollar on a stellar wine only to suppress its greatness by amateurish handling?
That would be like driving a Ferrari 812 Competizione with the handbrake on – you cannot unfold its true glory, power and brilliance, lying at the heart of its very existence. A total waste of magic. But that is just my personal opinion and you need to decide for yourself what makes you happy.
I think many would enjoy champagne more if they knew how complicated, time-consuming and deeply refined the production of Dom Pérignon is. What it takes to achieve this ever-striking harmony of house style and vintage character, of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, of history and vision. To cut through time and space by balancing craftmanship with poetry. Where do I start? By opening a bottle.
I am browsing through my humble collection, contemplating which vintage to crack open. 2015? Too vegetal for me. 2013? So ethereal and electric, but still a tad too young. 2012? Nicely bold and rich; my fiancée prefers elegant vintages. 2010? Not a fan, sorry. 2006? A personal favourite but not a typical Dom. 2002? Out of this world and saving it for a special occasion. 2008? Yes! This legendary vintage is hailed as the GOAT and adored for its superior balance of elegance and power. Let’s see how it tastes at sweet 16.
Pop, pour, sniff. Say hello to that smoky toasty, sea-breezy hallmark perfume of Dom Pérignon. In the mouth, it is delicate yet energetic, with laser-like precision. Aromas of fresh apple, juicy nectarine, dried flowers and citrus brioche emerge, a whiff of nuts and oyster shells, all smoothly woven together and firing on the palate with a super yeasty chalky minerality. Still a baby, but you can feel the power underneath, waiting to erupt in the next decades. I pour myself a big sip, seal it with a bottle stopper and put it back in the fridge, so it can gently breathe for an hour. Like every fine wine, it needs time to open up.
Dom Pérignon strives for the perfect balance of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – it is the paradox of opposite and complementary elements of these grape varieties that creates vibration and tension.
After harvesting, it takes eight years in the cellar before Dom Pérignon reaches its first Plénitude. This slow maturation is the price to be paid to make it such a complex and harmonious wine.
My mind wanders back to the late 17th century, when monk Dom Pierre Pérignon, and everybody else in Champagne, produced still red wine. Fermentation was halted by cold winters and in spring, yeasts woke up to further ferment and form bubbles. This made bottles explode and gave champagne its charming nickname, Devil’s Wine, so the abbey tasked him to improve the wines first and foremost by eliminating the unholy bubbles. You guessed it: he didn’t succeed. But along the way, he worked out new techniques such as slow pressing (for clearer wines) and blending different vineyards (for more complex wines), forming champagne’s DNA as we know it today. No wonder he is considered its spiritual godfather.
It wasn’t until 1936 that the first champagne under his name was commercially released. Dom Pérignon 1921 paved the way for the category of Prestige Cuvée (created by Louis Roederer’s Cristal 60 years earlier and adapted by all major maisons) but that iconic heraldic label slowly became established as a mark of success and a guarantee of magic.
The legend was further elevated by the launch of Dom Pérignon Rosé with the 1959 vintage, served at the 2,500-year celebration of the Persian Empire in 1971… by the serving of the 1961 vintage at the wedding of Charles and Diana in 1981… by its countless special editions by the likes of Lady Gaga, Jeff Koons or Lenny Kravitz.
And by introducing the Plénitude system to showcase Dom Pérignon’s distinctive state of harmonies: P1 (beige label) is the standard bottle with seven years on the lees, P2 (black label) 14 years and P3 (gold label) more than 20 years; reflecting both their complexity and price. And let’s not forget Dom Pérignon Rosé, usually more flamboyant, masculine and spicy than the Blanc. 2009 is the current vintage on the market and it may be its finest yet. DP Ambassador Andreas Caminada and I recently tasted it with veal ravioli and black truffle, and I was lost for words.
It is time to take out my bottle of 2008 from the fridge, bring it up to 8°C and pour it into tulip-shaped champagne glasses, so the wine can fully express itself. Wow, this tastes more intense than an hour ago, and will pair beautifully with my freshly cooked spaghetti alle vongole. I just love pairing Dom Pérignon with pasta and seafood – the flour emulates its yeastiness and the sea accentuates its slightly salted elegance, reminding me of the Côte d’Azur.
To me, that is the real magic of Dom Pérignon, to enjoy it in peace and pair it with fine food. To others, the magic is to pop and spray, or to show off with it. However it is enjoyed, it elevates a moment into an outstanding one, whether you are a wine snob or not. I find Dom Pérignon to be always complex but not complicated, and I think, therein lies the success of the world’s most popular vintageonly Prestige Cuvée. It is always a fine wine that is harmonious, smooth and so effortlessly easy to sip, it makes you forget the world around you. By the way, how come this bottle is already empty? Well, that is the magic of Dom Pérignon.
MY FOUR FAVOURITE SWISS DELUXE HOTELS TO SIP DOM PÉRIGNON
I love to pop by the stylish Baur’s Brasserie at Baur au Lac, and pair that cheeky bottle of DP with their sliced veal Zurich style and rösti – in my humble opinion the best in town. Park Hotel Vitznau is another favourite of mine, pairing this liquid gem with nice views of Lake Lucerne, while enjoying the lovely lake breeze. Don’t miss out on touring its massive champagne and wine cellar, arguably one of the world’s finest. We continue to the Gstaad Palace and its iconic Lobby Bar, and there’s nothing like enjoying its club sandwich paired with some Dom Pérignon, and watching the stylish personalities hanging out there and showing off. And let’s not forget the legendary Badrutt’s Palace St Moritz, the pizza at its Chesa Veglia restaurant is yummy, and makes for a contemporary edgy pairing with Dom Pérignon. As I said earlier, yeasty and yeasty pair well. Santé, and enjoy these magical experiences.
ʻDom Pérignon’s aesthetic ideal is a never-ending quest for harmony: the perfect balance of precision, intensity and complexity along with the sensations of ripeness, vibrancy and lightness.ʼ – Vincent Chapéron, Cellar Master
A menu that tells stories
The centrepiece of Castello del Sole’s culinary world is the Locanda Barbarossa restaurant. Awarded one Michelin star and 18 Gault-Millau points, the gourmet restaurant is an oasis for foodies.
‘Sapori del Nostro Orto’ is a tribute to the hotel’s own garden. Here, the flavours of the Mediterranean garden are combined with the creativity of haute cuisine to create a symphonic taste experience that captivates all of the senses.
Each dish tells the story of the carefully selected ingredients, inspired by the rich tradition of Ticinese cuisine. Whether it’s the tender meat of the local Limousin beef, the sun-kissed tomatoes or the aromatic herbs, you can taste the passion for high-quality products. Thanks to the proverbial ‘farm to table’ method, the menu is constantly changing from one season to the next. In spring, guests can enjoy delicate asparagus dishes, while the focus in summer is on ripe fruit and fresh vegetables. Warming pumpkin dishes tempt guests in autumn and hearty meat dishes prove a treat in during colder days.
The Castello del Sole Beach Resort & Spa will reopen for the summer season from 11 April until 19 October 2025.
Left | View to the vineyards of Cantina alla Maggia. Large glass panes provide unhindered views, blurring the boundaries between indoors and outdoors.
Right | Modern sculptural artwork by James Licini in the hotel park. A place where art, nature and indulgence can meet.
Mattias Roock
With a great deal of dedication and passion, Mattias Roock explains his approach and describes how he plans dishes one year in advance.
We call it ‘From our farm to our table’, as we have both our Cantina alla Maggia for the wine and Terreni alla Maggia for the agricultural products right next door at Castello del Sole. The ingredients for our Sapori del nostro orto menu come almost entirely from our own garden. Together with our gardeners, we are constantly thinking about what else we could grow – it’s a constant process of development. Starting this season, we have also been making our pasta from our own durum wheat flour.
Maintaining close contact with our guests and entering into a lively dialogue with them help me to answer their questions. Doing so always gives me new ideas. I’m constantly working on my own self-development and also look for inspiration when travelling. That’s why it’s important for me to always go to places that I haven’t visited before. I don’t like travelling to the same location twice. And I like the water, it has a calming effect on me. I view the core culinary team on site as a source of energy as well as seeing myself as a coach here. Every development in the team and on the plate fills me with great happiness.
Today's guests want to know more than ever where a product comes from and how it was grown or raised.
Cold essence of tomato – Locanda Barbarossa
INGREDIENTS
1 kg Ripe, red, soft tomatoes
50 ml Pedro Ximenes sherry
30 g Fresh basil
1 g Vinegar
10 g Piment d'espellette
2 g Salt Vegetable binding agent (xanthan gum)
Goat's cheese mousse
60 g Capra Nera di Verzasca
30 ml Cream cheese
50 ml Milk Whipped cream
1 sheet Gelatine
1 g Salt
1 pinch Piment d'espellette
Tomato jelly
250 ml Tomato juice
3 g Agar-agar
INSTRUCTIONS
Essence of tomato
• Quarter the tomatoes
• Mix together with the basil, sherry vinegar, salt and piment d'espellete until everything combines well
• Place the mixture in a sieve lined with a sieve cloth and leave to drain overnight in the fridge
• Combine the clear tomato juice collected overnight with the xanthan gum and flavour again as desired
Goat's cheese mousse
• Stir the goat's cream cheese into the 50 ml of milk
• Add the milk and cheese mixture to a pan and melt over a low heat on the hob while stirring
• Add the gelatine that has been previously soaked in cold water to the warm goat's cheese and milk mixture and dissolve
• Stir in a cold water bath and bring to approx. 25 degrees
• Fold in the whipped cream and pour the mixture into an ice cube tray with hemispherical moulds
• Leave to freeze in the freezer for at least six hours
Tomato jelly
• Add the tomato juice and the agar-agar to a pan and bring to the boil while stirring
• Dip the frozen goat's cheese hemispheres into the hot tomato jelly
Serving/garnish
• One candied slice of ox-heart tomato
• Various colourful tomatoes (e.g. Yellow Pearl, Red Pearl, Mexican Honey tomatoes, Raf tomatoes, Kumato, Green Zebra tomatoes), blanched and cut into different segments without the skin and marinated with basil oil
• Capra Nera di Verzasca cream cheese praline
• Olives
• Basil oil
• Different types of fresh basil from the garden
Ricotta and spinach filling for fagottini
INGREDIENTS
for approx. four people
600 g Ricotta (drained using a cheese cloth)
300 g Stracciatella cheese
50 g Grated Sbrinz
125 g Finely chopped spinach leaves
Lemon zest
Salt and ground white pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
Quickly sauté the spinach leaves with a little olive oil in a pan over a low heat. Remove from the heat and then drain the leaves in a sieve.
Mix the ricotta and stracciatella in a mixing bowl, slowly incorporate the Sbrinz and then stir in the finely chopped spinach. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon zest. Pour the finished mixture into a piping bag and leave to rest in the fridge.
Roll out the pasta dough thinly to approximately 0.5 mm and cut into evenly sized squares. Spread the filling evenly. Brush the edges of the pasta squares with a little water. Fold the dough over the filling to create a triangle by joining two opposite corners of the pasta square and then press the top of the triangle to seal it and create the fagottini shape. Leave the finished pasta to rest again briefly in the fridge.
Bring a suitably sized pan containing plenty of salted water to the boil and cook the finished fagottini for 4–5 minutes.
Serve the cooked pasta in a dish with some of the marinated spinach leaves, wild garlic oil, fresh peas and a wild garlic foam.
Sharp Swissness
WORDS ALEX KÜHN
In the watchmaking town of Biel, Michael Bach produces knives that are as flawless and precise as a luxury watch. The S in the name sknife is no coincidence. Read on to find out more about steel, wood and emotions.
Do you like it when people compare your knives with premium Rolex watches? Very much so! A good half of our employees previously worked in the watch industry. In addition, we use a special steel alloy that is also used by leading watch manufacturers. The head of quality of a very well-known brand, which I won’t name here for the sake of discretion, once said to me: You work with the same attention to detail as we do, and what you produce is actually a premium watch without the movement.
sknife has been around for ten years now. What are the most important factors in this success story? In addition to our uncompromising commitment to quality and the pleasure we take in
what we do, we also have excellent connections within the gastronomy industry. Back when we were producing the first prototypes of our knives, we engaged in intensive dialogue with professionals from the kitchen and service sectors. We learned what the optimum weight distribution is and how the knife should lie on the table – specifically, with the knife edge being contactless with the surface to be protected.
You mentioned Swissness. How much of Switzerland is in a sknife knife? The steel comes from Klein SA Biel, also a supplier of the watch industry, which is then processed at the Flükiger forge, a family-run business in Oberburg in the Emmental.
The knife blanks are subsequently transported from there to our factory. Unlike our competitors, we do not use tropical wood for the handles. Instead, we use ash and walnut from Switzerland and have it compacted by another family-run business, H-Tech in Neuenegg (Canton of Bern), using a special stabilisation technique that gives it the necessary stability and colouring: consequently the sknife knives are predestined for the gastronomy.
One of your prominent customers is Sven Wassmer from Memories Restaurant at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. You have created an individual series of knives for him. That’s right. When he was awarded his third star in 2022, he wanted something that no one else in Switzerland had: light-coloured wood with a special structure. Beechwood that has been soaked in water for a long time has such a structure, and Sven was immediately impressed. Initially, we sourced this driftwood from Switzerland. As we aim for beautiful wood grain, we meanwhile source it from European countries.
sknife knives can now also be found at the most prestigious establishments outside Switzerland, for example at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc on the Côte d’Azur. How did you manage to accomplish that? Fortunately, word gets around about the quality we offer. It wasn’t easy at first, however, as we are not a global brand. Nevertheless, to get our knives used in the best establishments, I made several journeys to the Côte d’Azur, with knives in our luggage, on which we had engraved the name of each chef. We have been equipping the Lou Roc restaurant with Executive Chef and Michelin-starred
chef Sébastien Broda with our sknife steak knives. The great enthusiasm of his guests led to the request from the Cap-Eden-Roc to produce an exclusive cutlery collection.
Do you watch for the reactions of guests at neighbouring tables when you sit in a restaurant that uses your knives? Of course, that is very direct and valuable feedback for me. Incidentally, I always recognise restaurateurs immediately. They turn over all the crockery and look for the brand name on the cutlery. Knives always attract special attention.
What makes a sknife knife so special and unique? Both are sharp, but an outstanding knife is a shade sharper. Above all, it stays sharp for longer. Something else that is very important is the craftsmanship. Compared to industrial products, our handcrafted knives stand out by cleaner transitions being manufactured in high precision with attention to detail – our tolerance is not 0.5 mm, but almost exactly zero. Sharpness is meant to be enjoyed every day. That’s why we offer a sharpening and care set, ensuring sknife knives maintain their first-day sharpness for a lifetime.
Finally, let's take a brief look into the future: When will sknife next launch a new product? Knife lovers are also delighted with the pocket knife – especially the luxury version in damask steel adorned with 51 diamonds. The launch of a special sommelier knife is planned for early 2025. We like to do things thoroughly and, when in doubt, prefer to take a little longer.
highlights
The stunning location on a curve of the Rhine River, close to both the German and French borders, is truly exceptional. This diversity is evident throughout the city, reflected in the wide range of creative offerings and the vibrant lifestyle of Basel’s residents. We visited the historic old town for a stay at the iconic Les Trois Rois and much more.
And Oskar goes to … Lausanne
Dog heaven on earth: At the superluxurious Beau-Rivage Palace hotel, not only are Labradors treated like kings, they are also kings in themselves. Some pets have stayed at the hotel forever – in its own dog cemetery.
WORDS TITUS ARNU
PHOTOS ENNO KAPITZA
Can dogs go to heaven? Do cats also live there? And what is there to eat? These questions are not so easy to answer theologically. Nowhere in the Bible does it say that animals can hope for eternal life. But the prophet Isaiah describes heaven (chapter 11, verses 6-8) as follows: ‘The wolf also shall dwell with the lamb, the leopard shall lie down with the young goat, the calf and the young lion and the fatling together; and a little child shall lead them. The cow and the bear shall graze; their young ones shall lie down together; and the lion shall eat straw like the ox.’ So there is reason to believe that there are also a number of animals hanging around in heaven.
I am sure that my dog Oskar is a believer. His religion is eating. The kitchen is his church, the fridge his altar. He spends many hours lying in front of this shiny silver shrine and worships it with folded paws. Twice a day, at 8 a.m. and 6 p.m., a two-legged priest (sometimes even a priestess) enters the kitchen and celebrates the dog’s high mass. Whether it’s dry food, bread, carrot peel, cheese rind, apple cores or fish skin, Oskar eagerly accepts anything edible from his master’s hand. Sometimes he prays quietly for extra meals – I can hear it in his quiet grumbling.
Unfortunately, Oskar can’t talk, but I can tell from the noises he makes and his actions that he is more than just an eating machine. He feels, senses, thinks and dreams, so he has some sort of psyche. According to Catholic theology, however, animals do not have a soul, which contrasts with the beliefs of Buddhism and Islam. The derogatory attitude towards animals is characterised by the Old Testament, which states: ‘Fill the earth and subdue it! Rule over the fish of the sea and the birds of the air and every creature that moves on the ground.’ Most animal lovers, whether Christian or not, would agree that their beloved dogs and even reptiles have a soul that continues to exist in some way
after they have died. Whether or not there is a rainbow bridge and separate heavens for cats, dogs and squirrels is probably a matter of interpretation.
When we arrive at the Beau-Rivage Palace Hotel in Lausanne, Oskar and I have the feeling that we have accidentally stepped into dog heaven. The staircase to the lobby is flanked by two black dog sculptures. The magnificent building with its 138 rooms and suites sits on the shores of Lake Geneva, is surrounded by a park with tall, old trees and belongs to the super luxury category, which is one step up from a five-star luxury hotel. A dog sofa and a highly polished bowl are waiting in the room, next to these is a bag of dog treats that Oskar wants to devour immediately, packaging and all. However, the eating ritual will have to wait, as a tour of the park is the first item on the agenda.
Oskar hails from a kennel named Lakeview Labradors and truly lives up to his name on the shores of Lake Geneva. When his owners are busy, the concierge at the Beau-Rivage Palace takes him for a walk in the park.
Since the hotel was founded in 1861, English lords, Russian grand dukes, Hollywood actresses, sports stars, kings and astronauts have laid their famous heads on luxurious pillows at the Beau-Rivage Palace. Fashion designer Coco Chanel spent many a summer at the magnificent palace on the lakeshore, always accompanied by her lapdog. Today, it is mainly business people, medical tourists and guests of honour from the International Olympic Committee who stay at the Beau-Rivage, as the Olympic Museum and the Olympic Park are located right next to the hotel. In the past, it was common for visitors to stay at the hotel for several weeks or even months, bringing their entire family, servants and pets with them. And some of these animals stayed forever.
Oskar lifts his leg in the direction of a stately pine tree, sniffs at a wall and strolls on to a quiet corner at the eastern end of the garden. A sign next to the gravel path serves as a reminder to: ‘Veuillez tenir les chiens en laisse’ (Please keep dogs on a lead). The park features numerous animal sculptures, for example a group of donkeys that were created by Edouard-Marcel Sandoz (1881–1971), a descendant of the wealthy Sandoz family from the Basel pharmaceutical industry. The sculptor was a great animal lover. The Beau-Rivage Palace belongs to the Sandoz Hotel Foundation, as do the neighbouring Chateau D’Ouchy, the Angleterre Residence and the Lausanne Palace in the centre of Lausanne. The Foundation also owns a dog cemetery.
On the slope facing the Olympic Park lie around fifty gravestones on a grassy hill surrounded by shrubs. The inscriptions on the gravestones provide information about once intimate relationships: ‘Here sleeps our beloved Paulinchen. Garmisch 1969, Lausanne 1973’. ‘Mi querido Purtzl 1949’. ‘Lumpi 1918–32’. ‘Mimi – Notre Joie 1927–1944’, ‘Taffy, my beloved friend 1925–1937’, ‘Sunnyat – little friend for fifteen years’. The golden inscription on the grey gravestone for Beauty is visibly fading. Fifi, Macko and Marzus share a triple crypt. Which is the tombstone for the Duke of Windsor’s two Pekingese? And where is Coco Chanel’s little dog that sat in her handbag?
There is probably no other hotel in the world, let alone in the Leading Hotels of the World category, with its own dog cemetery. Only the four-legged friends of prominent hotel guests have found their final resting place in the cemetery, which is over a hundred years old. For reasons of hygiene, animals may no longer be buried on the premises. But what about some of the more recent inscriptions? What is buried there then?
‘Some owners have buried toys, collars and dog clothes as symbolic gestures,’ reveals a hotel employee, but does not mention the names of the masters and mistresses out of discretion.
Above | Well-behaved dogs are welcome in the hotel’s brasserie, though the fish is only filleted for human guests. However, dog-friendly baked madeleines are provided in the room for the four-legged visitors.
Top right, right side | Oskar poses with donkeys and an apple among the sculptures in the hotel park. On the parade ground, Oskar is allowed on the carpet in the luxuriously furnished room, but not on the bed or sofa.
On the way to the Café Beau-Rivage, an elegant brasserie on the ground floor of the hotel, you will walk past a wall of fame with photos and guestbook entries from prominent visitors such as Alain Delon, the Dalai Lama, Diana Ross, Elton John, Ginger Rogers, Woody Allen and Nelson Mandela. Charlie Chaplin spent his first night in Switzerland here with his wife Oona when the couple moved to Switzerland in 1952. Author Georges Simenon described the Beau-Rivage in the guest book as a place ‘where everything is done to make you feel at home’.
Oskar feels almost better than he does at home, because at home he doesn ’ t have a sophisticated divan to sleep on; instead, his place is usually a mat in the hallway. And he is not normally allowed to go to fancy restaurants where his master is served delicacies such as fried perch fillets, tenderloin beef and chocolate mousse. In the brasserie, the dog sits next to the table, staring at the spotless white tablecloth, and can
hardly control himself, salivating at the thought of food. However, one of ten Labrador commandments is: You must not steal anything from the table! Oskar frequently breaks this rule.
At the next table, a waitress and a waiter serve a fried char on a silver platter. They carve the fish professionally and ritualistically. Oskar looks devout, as if he is attending a religious ritual. Could he not at least steal the fish skin or the head? Begone, Satan! A little while later, the waiter places a plate of tartare in front of a guest, who nods with emotion. Oskar’s eyes are a silent prayer: Please, please, dear dog god, make the plate fall off the table by mistake! Two tigers gaze peacefully from a huge painting on the opposite wall. Yes, it would be dog heaven if Oskar were allowed to order anything he wanted from the menu. If a lion will one day eat straw like an ox, why shouldn’t a Labrador one day eat beef tartare like a man, to quote the prophet Isaiah? Goodbye and amen.
The “101 best hotels” will take over the prestigious SonntagsZeitung and Le Matin Dimanche hotel ranking. In spring 2025, we will proudly present the “101 best hotels of Switzerland”, offering transparent and relevant guidance to Switzerland’s finest destinations for our readers and esteemed travellers. Our new 101 coffee table book and 101 website, showcasing the best addresses in Switzerland, will be launched in March 2025.
WWW.DIE-101-BESTEN-HOTELS.COM
»The brand ‘The 101 Best Hotels’ has created an original benchmark with its transparent and independent ranking, providing guidance for guests and hoteliers that did not exist before. The ranking, beyond personal impressions and individual opinions, has long been overdue.«
Michael Smithuis, Regional Vice President & General Manager Fairmont
Le Montreux Palace, Präsident Swiss Deluxe Hotels
‘I hope that 101 best will become the new travel bible of Switzerland’
A premiere for the Swiss hotel industry: in spring, ‘The 101 Best Hotels of Switzerland’ will be published for the first time, continuing SonntagsZeitung’s grand endeavour of ranking hotels. The cofounder of the ranking, Carsten K. Rath, hopes that this will generate considerable added value for guests and huge benefits for Swiss hotels.
WORDS CHRISTOPH AMMANN
In 2020, Carsten K. Rath and his son David presented the 101 Best Hotels in Germany in Hamburg to a limited number of guests due to the pandemic. ‘However, the ranking immediately went through the roof, in part because there had been nothing similar in Germany until then,’ recalls the internationally recognised hotel expert with an impressive career in the industry. Inspired by success: on 30 March 2025, ‘The 101 Best Hotels of Switzerland’ will be presented at a soirée at the Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel in Interlaken. One week later, on 6 April, the ranking will be published in SonntagsZeitung and Le Matin Dimanche. ‘I am happy about this media partnership,’ says Carsten K. Rath, ‘Tamedia’s two most important Sunday titles guarantee the greatest possible attention throughout Switzerland.’
Rath’s 101 Best replaces Karl Wild’s hotel rating. ‘When Karl announced his intention to retire, we seized the opportunity to compile the hotel rankings for SonntagsZeitung and Le Matin Dimanche in future,’ explains Rath. As in Germany and the DACH ranking, a coffee table book will also be published in spring 2024. Not only will the 101 top-rated Swiss hotels be presented here, but also 20 wonderful hotels outside of the ranking under the category The Editor’s Choice.
All of the hotels in the book and on the popular 101 Best website are labelled with a QR code that guests can use to book directly. ‘This gives the hotels commission-free direct access to premium and lifestyle-oriented customers,’ explains Rath.
And how are the rankings determined? Rath takes a scientific approach. To this end, the native Rhinelander has brought the IU International University of Applied Sciences in Munich on board. Their results are based on three aspects: the ratings from Booking and TripAdvisor, those from guides and rankings such as the Guide Michelin or Forbes, as well as anonymous checks. ‘Our testers stay at the hotels for around 24 hours and evaluate them according to the streamlined Leading Quality Assurance criteria catalogue,’ explains Carsen K. Rath. ‘We check out the best hotels that give themselves five stars or five points for their service on the aforementioned booking portals and are among the best hotels in terms of the first two aspects mentioned above.’ Carsten K. Rath aims to visit all 101 hotels personally. He has no influence on the ratings himself: ‘What I can say, however, is that there are around 40 world-class hotels in Switzerland, but only five in Germany.’
three times lucky
IN BASEL
After Bern and Lucerne, thirst and the desire to discover the local delicacies have brought our editor to Basel. Situated at the so-called Rhine knee, the sublime Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois proved to be a comfortable starting point for liquid adventures and the search for top-shelf cocktail establishments.
WORDS OLIVER SCHMUKI
Basel bears the same fate as many other Swiss cities – it stands in the supposed shadow of Zurich and is sometimes a little too preoccupied in trying to push itself into the limelight. This is happening despite the fact that in these times of overtourism and globalisation, cities that have been second or third choice in particular are benefiting greatly by being given the opportunity to develop sustainable tourism that focuses on quality rather than quantity.
As far as Basel is concerned, this beautiful city has nothing to hide – not culturally, not geographically, not culinarily and certainly not in terms of its historical and modern city architecture. All of these qualities attract workers and tourists alike. The spectacular location on a bend in the Rhine and in the immediate vicinity of both the German and French borders is of course also unique. This diversity is palpable in the city and is reflected both in the variety of inspired offerings as well as in the way the people of Basel go about their lives.
The hotel and catering industry is also at the highest level. Let’s take the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois as an example. Nowadays, when every other establishment is advertising itself as ‘your home away from home’, it seems even more difficult to find a true sense of cosiness combined with professional, competent service that is never intrusive and yet comes from the heart. However, that’s exactly what you’ll find at this address near Basel Schifflände. And the five-star hotel is not standing still: The front part of the building is currently being renovated and remodelled by the renowned architectural duo Herzog & de Meuron. Next year, additional rooms and a modern spa area will be made available to guests.
01 Gump ins Muul
HERZ COCKTAIL BAR
But let's return to the here and now and the summer of 2024. We arrive in Basel, it's a hot day, and the first thing we do is take a dip in the river, which is great fun, but something only experienced swimmers should try. Then it's time to get started. We want to sound out the city's upmarket bar culture. A local friend told me that there was nowhere better to do this than in the proverbial heart of Kleinbasel, more precisely between the Mittlerer Brücke and Exhibition Center Basel. This is where you'll find Herz, a cocktail bar that seems inconspicuous at first glance. But we realise that we have ended up in a very special place even before we have taken a seat at the round table by the window that looks out onto the pavement. We are the first guests, and barkeeper Stephi, while serving us some still water, patiently answers our questions about the cocktail menu, which changes regularly and is highly seasonal and regional.
After much deliberation, I decide in favour of the Gump ins Muul 2.0 – which is a good choice! Rarely before has a cocktail impressed me so much. Multi-layered, complex, but easy to drink, fresh and not overwhelming – I can't help but marvel at the harmonious and sophisticated way in which the many ingredients (Riesling, white vermouth, fino sherry, sage cordial, verjuice, absinthe and salt) are combined here, giving me five or six unforgettable sips. I only have one word for this drink: wow!
We are more and more at ease here and decide to order vintage sardines and triangles of toast filled with kimchi or grilled cheese. While we are drinking and nibbling happily, Managing Director Norbu Tsering joins us. He talks about his bar, about the rocky beginnings in the first year of the coronavirus and finishes off by highlighting his favourite addresses in the city for us in a copy of the handy Basel Bar Guide.
All in all, it comes as no surprise to us that the Mixology trade magazine named the Herz the Best Bar in Switzerland 2024. The only thing we really dislike is the fact that we have to leave again after just one drink. Because even if you might not realise it at first glance, we are here to work! However, we make a promise to come back as soon as we can, so instead of saying goodbye, we say see you later.
Clarastrasse 11 | herzbasel.com
WE CAN‘T AFFORD TO DO WITHOUT THE GOOD.
WE CAN‘T AFFORD TO DO WITHOUT THE GOOD.
THE VOICE OF MODERN LUXURY
THE VOICE OF MODERN LUXURY
02
Virgin Old Cuban & Thai Lemonade
BAR LES TROIS ROIS
On the way back to the hotel, we pass the stone statue of Helvetia sitting by the Mittlere Brücke, who has briefly laid her shield, cloak and spear on the ground to catch a breather. She radiates an inner calm, not unlike Thomas Huhn. The Chef de Bar, who has been working at the Grand Hotel for almost twenty years, welcomes us with a smile. Huhn is almost as legendary as many of the classic drinks that he and his team serve up every day. We know from past visits that the Bar Les Trois Rois expertly pays homage to tradition and yet always keeps up with the times – and isn't that exactly what you want from a traditional establishment like the Trois Rois? And so on this day, we give the team behind the bar the difficult task of impressing us with non-alcoholic creations that demand our full attention while still pleasantly dazing our senses.
03
Saffron Gin Fizz
IRRSINN BAR
The sun is shining and the river is sparkling, so we walk right through the elegant, darkcoloured hotel bar, furnished with capitonné sofas and paintings by artists such as Varlyn, and set up outside on the terrace, where we are welcomed by a remarkably cheerful and very knowledgeable young barman. Now, all that's left to do is wait for the moment of truth. After tasting both our drinks, we both agree that the Virgin Old Cuban is impeccable and beautifully drinkable, but the Earl Grey lacks a little of the depth that is otherwise promised by dark rum. However, the Thai Lemonade with lemongrass, lemon juice and almond syrup is exactly to our taste – a delicious, fresh sensory spectacle!
We drink from our straws and, like Helvetia on the other side of the river, meditatively gaze at the water flowing by. We briefly toy with the idea of adding a cocktail experience to our day's agenda. This is a two-hour, high-proof cocktail connoisseur's experience where liquid creations from the shaker are complemented by freshly prepared bar snacks. But we'll have to save that for our next visit to the city, as we barflies want to take a closer look at the next cocktail venues in Basel.
Blumenrain 8 | lestroisrois.com
After a detour to Basso, where a young crowd is ringing in the weekend with long drinks, some summer rain that cleanses the spirit and the streets, and a lot of walking, we find ourselves at the Irrsinn (German for 'insanity') late at night. We take a look around. This is not a place like the Herz, which woos you with a lovely atmosphere, restrained music and floral table decorations. Instead, what you get here are metal bars, dim lighting, loud bass sounds and buzzing guitar riffs as well as tattooed guests with long beards and black shirts and a RauchStübli, which is German for a smoking lounge.
Nevertheless, the service is charming and the menu inspired, creative and promising. In other words, it's not easy deciding which drink to order. I waver between the El Machete, which contains habanero tequila, mezcal, lime and agave syrup, and a Saffron Gin Fizz, which is made with saffron gin, lemon juice, sugar syrup, soda water and strands of chilli, before finally deciding on the latter. My 'epicure in crime' orders a GG, a cucumber gimlet. Both creations are based on wellknown drinks and are a pleasure to look at.
After finishing our drinks, our thirst well and truly quenched, we take ourselves back outside into the warm air and make our way along the damp streets to our hotel. By this point, we have lost track of how many times we have crossed the Rhine that day. It seems that the only one here in Basel who keeps her composure is Helvetia on the bridge in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the city. A quiet connoisseur.
Rebgasse 43 | irrsinnbar.ch
Magic Moments at Unique PlaceS
magic moments at unique places
Art Basel successfully concluded its 2024 edition under the leadership of its new show director, Maike Cruse. The Messeplatz showcased Agnes Denes’ Honoring Wheatfield – A Confrontation (2024), a tribute to the artist’s iconic land artwork from the 1980s.
all events
04– 19 July 2025
MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL
The Festival is famous for its exceptional heritage and legendary concerts. With its intimate ambience and renowned hospitality, it offers a unique experience for artists and public alike. montreuxjazzfestival.com
CALENDAR AND DATES
You can find further information and details at swisstopevents.ch
19 – 22 June 2025 ART
BASEL
The New York Times dubbed it the ‘Art Olympics’, Vogue called it ‘the most beautiful temporary museum in the world’, and Le Monde simply hailed it as ‘the best in the world’. Art Basel, the premier international art show, attracts and inspires art lovers from across the globe year after year. artbasel.com
17 – 19 January 2025 FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN
In January 2025, the 95th International Lauberhorn Races will be held in Wengen in the beautiful Bernese Oberland. The world’s best Alpine skiers will compete in the Super-G on Friday, on the legendary Lauberhorn downhill slope on Saturday, and in the Slalom on Sunday. lauberhorn.ch
28 – 31 August 2025 OMEGA
EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANS-MONTANA
The Omega European Masters, which takes place in Crans-Montana (VS), has been offering its 50,000 spectators magical moments in a breathtaking Alpine environment ever since 1939. Professional golfers from all over the world come to compete in the most stunning setting of the DP World Tour schedule. omegaeuropeanmasters.com
11 – 13 April 2025
29 May – 1 June 2025
12 August – 14 September 2025
LUCERNE FESTIVAL
Lucerne Festival ranks among the leading international presenters of classical music, offering various festivals throughout the year. The main festival, which takes place in summer, showcases the world’s most-renowned symphony orchestras, conductors, and soloists, as well as the young artist generation and contemporary music. The other festivals include Lucerne Festival Forward in November, which is focused on contemporary music, the Spring Festival, and the Piano Fest curated by pianist Igor Levit. Together with the Summer Festival, they attract classical music fans from all over the world.
lucernefestival.ch
27 – 28 August 2025
WELTKLASSE ZÜRICH
Weltklasse Zürich, an event where Olympic champions face off against world-class rivals, captivates over 25,000 fans at the famed Letzigrund Stadium. Whether it's a photo-finish sprint, a gravity-defying jump, or a new world-leading throw, every second pulses with excitement.
This year, the energy extends to Sechseläuten Platz, the historic heart of Zurich, adding a cultural flair to the competition. With the prestigious Wanda Diamond League Final returning to the city, 32 disciplines will be contested by the best athletes on the planet.
weltklassezuerich.ch
06 – 16 August 2025
LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL
Every summer since 1946, the Locarno Film Festival has brought the world’s most innovative cinema to the shores of Lake Maggiore. Thanks to its free spirit, the Festival has become an incubator of ideas and new projects, with educational and cultural activities organised throughout the year.
locarnofestival.ch
26 – 31 December 2024
SPENGLER CUP DAVOS
The Spengler Cup is considered the oldest international ice hockey team tournament. The trophy of the same name was awarded for the first time in 1923. The participating teams from all over the world are invited by the host Hockey Club Davos. The magic formula of the Spengler Cup consists of the tourist resort Davos, the unique stadium, the time between Christmas and New Year, the meeting of different hockey philosophies as well as the long tradition. spenglercup.ch
01, 02, 08, 15, 16, 19 February 2025
WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ
The fascination for the world’s only horse race on a frozen lake has remained for generations. Featuring traditional skikjöring, flat, trotting and pony races, White Turf St. Moritz attracts VIPs from around the globe, locals and betting enthusiasts alike. whiteturf.ch
‘Young people are our future’
WORDS DANIEL WIENER
In August 2024, a golden yellow cornfield ready for harvest swayed in the summer wind in front of Messeturm Basel, where normally a hot tarmac desert can be found. The curators of Art Basel, who had welcomed their visitors with this living work of art a few weeks earlier – from 13 to 16 June –promise that it will be used to make bread. At the time of the fair, the young wheat plants were still bearing their green leaves and just peeking out of the waist-high wooden crates filled with soil. Honoring Wheatfield – A Confrontation (2024), by conceptual artist Agnes Denes, a pioneer of environmental, ecological, and land art, references Denes’ iconic land artwork from the 1980s.
The timing of this reenactment was not chosen at random. It was organised in a year – 2024 –in which the negative consequences of human activity and, above all, their inactivity on the planet are deemed as being more severe and urgent than ever. These range from global warming and a loss of biodiversity to wars and social imbalances. And they include society’s apparent inability to take adequate countermeasures. Artists react to such crises particularly quickly, radically and also with impressive works of art that aim to shake things up and not only inspire reflection but force it. A forum that Neue Zürcher Zeitung this year named as ‘the most important barometer of the art market’ cannot ignore such a sense of alarm among its most important players.
Art Basel is aware of its responsibility. At this Swiss Top Event, with its four main art fairs in Basel, Paris, Miami Beach and Hong Kong, it is committed to minimising its ecological footprint and promoting sustainable practices across the entire industry. ‘It’s a must,’ summarises Andi
A wheat field on the Basel fairground – nature and art go hand in hand
Bicker, Head of Business and Management Europe, clearly and plainly. And by this he means both an obligation towards nature and humanity as well as it also being a matter of course. As he takes this topic seriously, he particularly recognises the ‘major challenges for a trade fair like Art Basel’: the complex logistics of transporting art, the affluent collectors who often travel by private jet, and also the employees who fly a lot. Bicker states that these are all partly unavoidable consequences of an operation that spans three continents. This is why he emphasises: ‘We are only at the beginning.’
However, this ‘beginning’ is impressive, especially in areas where the fair management has a direct influence. One of the city’s largest solar plants is mounted on the vast roofs of the Basel Exhibition Centre. This produces 80% of the electricity consumed on these premises. Progress is also being made within the supply chains: carpets are made using recyclable materials. External stand construction and merchandising suppliers are required to manufacture their products as locally as possible and to ensure that waste is separated. The same principle also holds true for catering suppliers. In addition, vegetarian and vegan meals are being promoted. Art Basel has abandoned their previous throw-away mentality: Today, almost all the crockery and cutlery at the art fair is reusable.
Nevertheless, the fair is also tackling the ‘major challenges’. It has taken a close look at its own employees’ flights and ensured that these generate the smallest climate footprint possible by optimising travel routes and making intelligent decisions as regards the means of transport taken.
Honoring Wheatfield A Confrontation (2024), by conceptual artist Agnes Denes, a pioneer of environmental, ecological and land art. Art Basel references Denes’ iconic land art work from the 1980s.
The Lucerne Festival mobilises the public and its staff for social and environmental sustainability: With free public concert series such as In the street (above) or, like in 2023, when the team rolled up their sleeves to plant a bird-friendly hedge.
In order to share these experiences with others and continue on its journey of self-development, Art Basel not only participates in the Swiss Top Events sustainability workshops. It is also an active member of the international Gallery Climate Coalition. This organisation is an advocate of climate protection and waste reduction in galleries, museums and art fairs worldwide.
The Lucerne Festival, which brings together the global crème de la crème of the classical music community in the heart of Switzerland every summer, fills the KKL Lucerne to the last seat with a series of prestigious concerts. Like Art Basel, it has a climate footprint that is dominated by travel, namely the flights taken by orchestras and the transport of their instruments, some of which are bulky. By actively sensitising the orchestra management of its performers, air transport can be replaced by bus and train transfers. This is not always possible but is becoming more commonplace thanks to growing insight into the topic and the clever planning of tours. With a price reduction of 40% on travelling by public transport from all over Switzerland, the ‘Summit of Classical Music’, as the festival proudly and rightly calls itself, encourages its visitors to travel without a car. With a voluntary donation of two francs per ticket, the organiser also supports climate protection and forestry projects in Switzerland.
Every year, Lucerne Festival organises a public event that sensitises the public to the issues of species and habitat protection, and it lends a hand to this purpose with its team. At the public singalong event called ‘Sing for Birds’, the 2023 festival used its musical charm to collect donations for local bird conservation. In autumn 2023, the team walked the talk by rolling up their sleeves to plant a 400-metre-long, bird-friendly hedge.
The ecological aspects of sustainability are a new development for the Lucerne Festival in recent years. Social sustainability, on the other hand, has been a tradition at Lake Lucerne for over 20
years. The list of initiatives that the Festival has created, especially in support of young music fans, is so extensive that there is not enough room here to list every single one.
The Lucerne Festival Academy, which receives generous funding, is famous and particularly popular with participants, who get extensive training free of charge. Every summer, the Academy makes it possible for some 100 international musicians to play with the Lucerne Festival Contemporary Orchestra and gain new experiences with music of the 20th and 21st centuries over the course of three weeks. Further training sessions for young conductors and composition courses are held in parallel. This network gave rise to the autumn Forward Festival of contemporary music as an independent format.
An impressive 12% of the artistic budget is channelled into activities to promote young talent and into performances at schools or public concert series. The latter have self-explanatory titles such as In the Streets or Lakeside Symphony . Most of these offers are free of charge and happen without external coercion. In fact, the Lucerne Festival is a financial sustainability miracle: Public subsidies represent less than ten per cent of the annual expenditure of 20 million Swiss francs, which is mainly covered through ticket sales and contributions from sponsors and foundations.
As with Art Basel, sustainability is also a top priority at Lucerne Festival. Michael Haefliger, the long-standing artistic director, is personally committed to this, as is the commercial director Danièle Gross, who is responsible for this area as part of the management team. For her it is clear: ‘Sustainability is a necessity. Particularly regarding ecological sustainability, Lucerne Festival can contribute its charisma in addition to its own reduction measures and help to raise awareness.’
This concludes the four-part series on how the Swiss Top Events fulfil their sustainability tasks.
15 Gstaad
Gstaad
16 Le Grand
17 Park Gstaad Gstaad
18 The Alpina Gstaad Gstaad
19 Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa Interlaken
20 Lausanne Palace Lausanne
21 Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne-Ouchy
22 Le Mirador Resort & Spa
Le Mont-Pèlerin
23 Hotel Splendide Royal Lugano
24 Mandarin Oriental Palace, Lucerne Lucerne
25 Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Montreux
26 Beau-Rivage Hotel Neuchâtel
27 Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne Obbürgen
28 Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina
29 Badrutt’s Palace Hotel St. Moritz
30 Carlton Hotel St. Moritz St. Moritz
31 Kulm Hotel St. Moritz St. Moritz
32 Suvretta House St. Moritz
33 Grand Hôtel du Lac Vevey
34 Villars Palace Villars
35 Park Hotel Vitznau Vitznau
36 Grand Hotel Zermatterhof Zermatt
37 Mont Cervin Palace Zermatt
38 Riffelalp Resort 2222 m Zermatt
39 Baur au Lac Zurich
40 La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich Zurich
41 Mandarin Oriental Savoy, Zurich Zurich
42 The Dolder Grand Zurich
43 Widder Hotel Zurich
43 Swiss Deluxe Hotels
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BADRUTT’S PALACE HOTEL
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Hotel General Management Program
Develop essential skills for hotel management success.
Blended Learning Experience
Manage your studies around your schedule with four online modules, and apply your knowledge in an intensive one-week on-site session at EHL’s Lausanne Campus.
Personalized Leadership Development
This program incorporates a personal and professional leadership development path to help you grow as both a leader and an individual. Through personalized coaching sessions, you will receive tailored guidance to apply your learning to your own unique goals.
Customizable Curriculum
Put your new knowledge, strategic frameworks and creative skills into practice by creating a holistic hospitality concept. This practical approach ensures you are well-prepared for facing real-world challenges in hospitality.
Tauchen Sie ein in die Welt von Andreas Caminada. Der Kültchef von Schloss Schaüenstein gibt sein eigenes Magazin heraüs.
JETZT ABONNIEREN!
KÖCHE.KULTUR.LIFESTYLE.
City-Trip San Francisco. Die besten Adressen.
Eishockey-Star Nino Niederreiter führt Andreas Caminada aüfs Glatteis. Die besten Rezepte vom Schloss.
Die faszinierende Welt von Miriam Cahn.
JETZT ABONNIEREN!
Die Highlights aus der aktuellen Ausgabe «Caminada. Das Magazin» shop.caminadamagazin.ch
COVER PHOTO
In 1864, hotelier Johannes Badrutt wagered with British guests that St. Moritz’s winter climate was as pleasant as summer. In December, they crossed the Julier Pass in furs and arrived to sunny skies, greeted by Badrutt in rolled-up sleeves. Winter tourism was born! Our cover image, taken by Enrico Costantini, shows Badrutt’s restaurant being prepared for lunch.
H MAGAZINE – DISCOVERING SWISS LUXURY
Welcome to H Magazine, where Swiss flair, savoir-vivre, and the world of our esteemed Swiss Deluxe Hotels come alive. Within these pages, you’ll find captivating stories, exclusive interviews, and themed features that celebrate luxury, gastronomy, lifestyle, and intriguing long reads. Our engaging contributors bring you authentic guest experiences and glimpses behind the scenes. As a special interest magazine, H caters to readers who appreciate exquisite service and seek to learn more about the passionate individuals shaping the success of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. The magazine aims to surprise and fascinate readers in an elegant fashion.
H MAGAZINE
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS
DISTRIBUTION
H Magazine is distributed across the Swiss Deluxe Hotels member network, reaching a combined 1.5 million guests per year
PUBLICATION
H Magazine is published twice a year, in July and December
ego communications I Evelyn Gorgos | eg@egocommunications.com
DESIGN
Outline-Graphix UG I outline-graphix.de I info@o-graphix.de
ADVERTISING MANAGEMENT
ego communications | eg@egocommunications.com
TRANSLATIONS & PROOFREADING
Syntax Übersetzungen AG
CONTRIBUTORS
Alex Kuehn | a.kuehn@marmite.ch
Christoph Ammann I christoph.ammann@tamedia.ch
Beatrice Lessi | beatrice@askthemonsters.com
Claudio del Principe | claudio@delprincipe.ch
Dan Roznov | spy@champagnespy.com
Enrico Costantini I enrico@enricocostantini.com
Ilona Marx I mail@ilonamarx.de
Elena & Tim Steness | elena@elenasteness.com
Enno Kapitza | contact@ennokapitza.de
Katarina Griesbach | katka.griesbach@icloud.com
Oliver Schmuki | oschmuki@gmail.com
Patricia Bröhm | patricia.broehm@t-online.de
Peter Keller | peter.keller@nzz.ch
Stephanie Füssenich I info@stephaniefuessenich.de
Stefan Hottinger-Behmer | stefan@thediscerningnomad.com
Steffi Hidber | steffi@heypretty.ch
Titus Arnu | titusarnu@mac.com
PHOTOGRAPHS
Photos were made available by Swiss Deluxe Hotels, the contributors mentioned above, Switzerland Tourism and other sources
PRINTED BY Fontana Print SA I Via Giovanni Maraini 23 I 6963 Pregassona
WEBSITE swissdeluxehotels.com
H MAGAZINE ONLINE swissdeluxehotels.com/magazine
QUALITY FIRST
The unthinkable happened: my favourite Thai restaurant in Zurich closed down. Actually, it was just a humble Thai shop/ takeaway cooking a most yummy lunch. Communal tables, colourful cushions, exotic fruit and silly crackers lying around, a big altar praising His Majesty King Chulalongkorn, you know. But most of all, it was a temple of human friendliness and a lighthouse of unpretentious hospitality, devoted to quality cooking and freshly made, authentic Thai dishes, served with a smile. That place always gave me comfort and energy, brightening so many of my busy working days in the past 20 years.
Lack of customers wasn’t the reason this eatery ceased operations, far from it; people queued around the block daily. It was because suppliers raised prices for key ingredients such as organic chicken and rare mountain potatoes, and it would have forced the owners to increase their prices or buy cheaper produce. Both options felt wrong, as they believed in offering quality dishes at fair prices. So they preferred to shut down rather than compromise on their philosophy. In a city where everything is overpriced by
default, this is quite a statement. One could argue it was not the most economically viable decision, but I admire companies that stay true to their mission, identity and values, especially during difficult times. It is one of the most underrated cornerstones of strong brands.
Sometimes, I think, quality attitude is on the verge of becoming a dying art form, just another buzzword on the brand chart, overshadowed by corporate politics and hierarchy wars. Only to be dismissed by yea-sayers favouring scenarios that make them friends in boardrooms. Instead of fighting for smart approaches that are right for the brand, project its raison d’être into the future and champion both customers and stakeholders, for quality’s sake.
This story, accompanied by the sweet smell of Thai curry, is a reminder of the true meaning of quality. It is more journey than destination, realising that the good is the enemy of the great. It is not a framed diploma hanging on the wall, but Lewis Hamilton dedicating all his experience and passion to improve one millisecond every round. It is all about focus, and whole-
WORDS DAN ROZNOV
hearted consistency. And about listening to your clients, what they are not saying, as the formidable Will Guidara says in his book Unreasonable Hospitality.
Should have taken his advice seriously, when a famous wine producer tasked me to curate a dinner for affluent collectors, showing older vintages of its epic four-figure juices. The brief: the setting has to be uber-exclusive, reflecting the unicorn status of our wines. I emailed my luxurious ideas, but no answer for two months; then got a sloppy reply: we are busy, stay tuned. The company never contacted me again and executed it as a casual lunch in a mediocre restaurant. Resulting in a PR disaster that could have been avoided, if it had respected its own values and the aura of exclusivity it has been building for decades. Or was it arrogance, thinking its name shines bright enough to get away with anything?
Whether it is about fine wine or Thai food – quality attitude makes small brands win big, while large luxury brands must nurture it constantly; even in the tiniest details, that go beyond the product. When I was working at Apple, we talked about brand feel being the most important notion underlining every consumer touch point. And I believe any business must educate its employees about it. So they know what is the guiding light for their brand mission.
I am sitting at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, munching a scrumptious Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Pine Aioli, admiring the view of the Swiss Alps. The waitress brings me a fresh napkin; mine fell to the floor and I haven’t even noticed it. It’s the little things that I love about top service. But that story is for another time. Until then: bon voyage!
PRECISION
Our attention to detail is evident in everything we make. It took our skilled watchmakers years to create this delicate dance of levers, jewels, and wheels. OMEGA’s extraordinary Co-Axial Calibre 3861.
A movement Master Chronometer certified for its exceptional precision, performance, and magnetic resistance. We achieve this level of excellence by investing time and obsessing over the details. That’s our uncompromising approach. That’s OMEGA precision.
