Mens style

men’s style middleeast east middle

July/August 2011 NOVEMBER 2010 NOVEMBER 2010 10 AED or local equivalent 10 AED or local equivalent

F1 Fever Fever F1 abuDhabi Dhabiflies fliesThe ThesporTing sporTing abu flagwiTh wiThMoTor MoTorsporT sporTgala gala flag

axeTo To axe grinD grinD

Travel Travel TreaTs TreaTs

We visit Jordan, We visit Jordan, south africa south africa

keef riffs keef riffs into Jagger into Jagger

Jeansare are Jeans backin in back Were they Were they ever out? ever out?

a n g e Z o d gil

r e e t n n i e w s i h m t h s Er a d n o fashi

Magical Magical MoToring MoToring

Cut a

Yourang rangsir? sir?

You

driving Maseratis Lebanon, driving Maseratis inin Lebanon, checking out the Jag c-X75 checking out the Jag c-X75 Paris inin Paris dig your denim

What the butLer saW What the butLer saW and What he does and What he does AXE TO GRIND

elvis // on leaving the building

KEEF RIFFSTeeing INTO JAGGER Teeing up up

JEANS

MiLLion-doLLar MiLLion-doLLar race to dubai ARE BACK IN race to dubai

WERE THEY EVER OUT?

The King as a G.I. in Germany during the late 50’s

Editor’s note

men’s Style middle east

Stick to the basics with jeans

Publisher Malek Mahfouz

You can’t keep a good pair of jeans down. Well, you can, but you know what we mean.

As you’ll note inside, Jeans are full-on back in style. OK, they’ve never really left and they never will, but at the moment they’re hot.

eDiTOr Philip Moore

The right note All

Dealing with all those terms that blue jeans aficionados use so casually, and wondering if you’re the only one that has no clue what they mean: tight fit, low rise flares, with artful distressing, slightly frayed, button fly, wide yoke, signature flap pockets... well, you get the idea.

Designers NickAhmed Crawley Ifteqar Syed

eux that jazz at magical Montr

Kenny Garre

COnTribuTOrs Alexander Lindsay Will Rankin Chico Roll

hlin

there are great here are good jazz festivals, magical Montreux. jazz festivals ... then there’s For years diehard It really is the bee’s knees.

Gulf have headed from the fans of quality music No-one ever returns to Montreux in Switzerland. disappointed .

T

of the Montreux This was the 44th edition two weeks and Jazz Festival. It spanned each day. had capacity crowds le, paid-for gigs Whether it was high-profi gorgeous Lake at or smaller freebies, here to be.

Geneva was the place Quincy Jones and There were greats like combos that might Mark Knopfler and small rs, but they weekende than be little more could play! in at the Jazz Café and Hot DJs packed ‘em nce parties ran Studio 41, where dance/tra after dawn. from before dusk to in Dubai not so Knopfler who performed performance. long ago, gave delightful of elder statesman A magical gig was that also saw a surprise set Herbie Hancock. We get him out of Vegas.

by Prince – great to

All that jeans-speak can get a bit much.

Cobham Mclaug tt

Carlos Santana-And-Armando-Peraza

of times,” be. I’ve been a couple “It’s a special place to of Dubai, who plays the says guitarist Simon Tomkins the UAE. local five-star hotels in musicians as well as “It’s a festival for hard-core playing in the small fans. There’s some wonderful a music the main stage. But it’s workshops as well as of festival. You’ll find a lot festival more than a jazz ‘n’ roll.” blues, jazz, swing, rock

PhOTOgraPhy Ansar Mahmood Jorge Ferrari Reuters

a Billy Idol’s presence. Hardly His point is echoed by bands with a stand-up jazz singer used to fronting Montreux, groups at the festival, bass like many of the festivals in the world, one of the most prestigious covers all bases.

But genteel Montreux

is also etched in rock

history

Men’s Style 9

Nana

8 Men’s Style

Then you have to accept the fact that you just can no longer squeeze into the size that “is rightfully yours”.

And all you really want is to find a pair that fits well and makes you look great!

By Chico

“I USED HAVE N’T BE TO LOVE M ICK, BU EN TO ROOM HIS DRESSI T I NG IN 20 YEAR S.”

16 Men ’s

‘Where did Style

he go?’ ”

aDverTising MUSTAPHA IBRAHIM aDminisTraTiOn FlavyLobo Lobo(admin@rms.ae) (admin@rms.ae) Flavy DisTribuTiOn Naseeb Mohammed K.M. Sadik

“IMAG LIKE A E IS SHAD LONG OW. EVEN W THE SU HEN GOES N YOU CADOWN, SEE IT N .”

friend.’

I wonder,

Jagger has read the boo think it k, Rich opened ards said his eyes . “I a bit.”

Published monthly by

Denim permeates all major apparel markets: premium designer, urban, hip hop, street wear, teen, action, goth, you name it, denim is a part of it.

Sport // Golf

Men’s

THE GREAT RACE

Gulf golf set for

And no garment can be “dressed up” or “down” as successfully as blue jeans. Your choice of hairstyle, belts, and footwear is critical to your style.

Keef Rolls out the dirt on Jagge r

Legendar y Keith Rich Rolling Stones guitarist ards reve and jealo aled the us collabora lows of his half- exotic highs tion century bond betw with Mick Jagg founder een two of The er. The members Rolling Stones’ Richards was now said he so strai has not Jagger’s ned, set foot dressing in room in 20 year s.

He adde d he miss he forg es the frien ed one d with of mus writing whom ic’s mos partners t succ hips anticipate essful .In d autobiog his much describe raphy, s in fran Life, Richards k detail a long and wha complet particularly expl t sounds like e with love rival osive marriage epic argu ries, drug , ments and jawtaking, dropping insults.

HIs relat ions to be turb hip with Jagg er has ulent. Rich that his ards, 66, continued nicknam confirme e for Jagg Majesty ” or “Bre er is “You d nda.” r Richards said : “It Eighties was when Mick the beginnin g unbeara ble,” addi star ted to beco of the belong ng, “I thin me to him. k Mick ” thinks I He adm itted : “I used to haven’t love been years. Som to his dressing Mick, but I etimes room in ‘I miss I think, 20 my

We have no “one size fits all” answers, just some simple guidelines on how to find jeans that fit.

But the main thing with jeans, and it always will be, is there is no such thing as the ‘perfect pair’ - it’s down to the pair you like and how they relates to your specific body type, size and personal style.

Roll

A

superb showpiec e

fter a season that has seen 48 tournaments in 26 destinations, the second Race to Dubai will reach a fitting climax this month with the staging of the Dubai World Champion ship over the Earth course at Jumeirah Golf Estates.

Following the massive success of the inaugural event 12 months ago, around 60,000 spectator s are expected to take

advantage of the free ticket offer (www. dubaiworldchampio nship.com) and head down to the Earth course for the ultimate golfing celebration as Europe’s 60 best players battle it out for a share of a staggering $7.5 million in prize money as well as the right to be called the Number One player on The European Tour.

From Novembe r 25-28, Jumeirah Golf Estates will host a ‘Who’s Who’ of golf

as names like Westwoo d, McDowell, McIlroy, Kaymer, Poulter and Harringto n tee it up one more time at an event that has redefined the European game.

And if anyone doubts that, look no further than the man who is arguably the best in the world…

“If you ever wanted a tournament to burst on to the scene, the 2009 Dubai World Championship was probably as good as it

Style 17

gets,” said Lee Westwoo d after storming to victory in both the Dubai World Championship and The Race to Dubai in 2009. “I think Dubai, the golf course and The European Tour came out of it looking fantastic. I think it’s a great effort for golf in this region and a great advert for golf on The European Tour.”

Registered in Dubai Media City Registered in Dubai Media City

For Westwood, the 2009 season finally saw him back at the top during what has been a yo-yo career.

But at the time of going to press Westwoo had dethroned Tiger d Woods as world number one.

This year, however, he faces a massive fight to hang on to his crown as European

Office 137, Dubai Media City, Building 9 Office 137, Dubai Media City, Building 9 P O Box 502208, Dubai, UAE P O Box 502208, Dubai, UAE Tel: 971 4 3903145 4534050 Fax: 971 4 3904569 www.rms.ae

Enjoy the read and enjoy the show.

Meantime, what a treat Abu Dhabi is serving up for us with the Grand Prix. Some of the finest entertainers on the planet are flying into the UAE capital. And the drivers’ championship is going down to the wire.

is compiled with great care, but we accept Men’s Style is compiled with great by care, but we accept no responsibility for statements advertisers and no responsibility for statements advertisers and contributors whose views dobynot necessarily contributors whose views do not necessarily represent those of the publisher.

42 Men’s Style

No part of this magazine may be reproduced No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission.

Men’s Style 43

Enjoy the read and enjoy the Grand Prix.,

Contributors Alexander Lindsay The grand scribe solves the problem of having problems as only he can.

Anita De Villiers Tembe’s Tuskers In remote Tongaland, Tembe Elephant Park has gained the distinction of having some of the biggest tuskers in Southern Africa TEXT AND PICTURES ANITA DE VILLIERS

A

frica’s allure lies in her feral nature. For centuries her wild animals captured man’s imagination and fervour, a passion that created some riveting stories and impressive images. One species stands out, Loxodonta africana, the world’s largest living terrestrial animal.

“Africa’s allure lies in her feral nature.”

Their crowning glory, the African elephant’s tusks brought this species to its knees during the era of the ‘Great White Hunter’ and ivory poaching in the first half of the 20th century. Peter Beard’s The End of the Game tells of the impact trophy hunting had on Africa’s elephant population. In 1975 the African elephant was included in Appendix II of CITES 70 Men’s Style

4 Men’s Style

Philip Moore

(Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species), which meant that only authorised ivory trade was allowed.

Then in 1986 elephants were classified as an endangered species on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red List of Threatened Species.

In the ensuing period, the plight of Africa’s elephants gripped the world’s imagination and these mammoths became the darlings of animal lovers. But it was also the magnificence of the great tuskers that proved to be a very strong card in the hand of conservationists who had the revival of the species at heart.

In the Kruger National Park a number of big tuskers, all of them sporting ivories of more than 50kg each, had been attracting the attention of conservationists and the public. ‘The Magnificent Seven’, so named by Dr U. de V. Pienaar, chief warden at the time, received iconic status when the park launched a promotion that included commissioned paintings by wildlife artist Paul Bosman

and illustrated articles by Dr Anthony Hall-Martin, the park’s senior research officer.

But the Seven were entering the twilight of their lives, and between the years 1981 and 1985, they all died: Mafunyane, Ndlulamithi, Shawu, Dzombo, João, Kambaku and Shingwedzi. Their tusks and skulls (except for João’s) are exhibited in Letaba Camp’s Elephant Hall. Mandleve, who died of old age in 1993, holds the record for the heaviest tusks ever recorded in Kruger – 142,4kg of ivory. But there were some up-and-coming bulls, including the spectacular Duke, claimed to be the largest tusker in KNP and possibly the world – although one tusk had been broken.

In 1983 the Natal Parks Board and the

Tembe Tribal Authority established a game reserve in Tongaland, the most north-eastern corner of KwaZulu-Natal, with the specific aim of protecting Zululand’s last remaining indigenous herd of elephants. Mercilessly poached during the Mozambican civil war, these traumatised elephants found a sanctuary in the 300km² zone that was fenced off from Mozambique. It was eight years before the park was opened to the public – a period during which some of the emotional scars that had caused these animals to be volatile and dangerous were healed. A dedicated team, lead by park manager Nic de Goede and regional ecologist Wayne Matthews, did ground-breaking work and research

that included contraceptive darting of female elephants in order to contain the numbers in accordance with the carrying capacity of the park.

Little did I know that day in 1994, when I first found my way along Tembe Elephant Park’s sandy tracts, that I would eventually share in a story that echoes that of Kruger’s Seven. Having conducted wildlife photography safaris to Tembe for the past six years, I got to know the park’s great elephants and kind people well. So when Ernest Robbertse, co-owner of Tembe Safari Lodge, phoned to say that Kruger’s Duke had broken the second of his tusks, it transpired that Tembe’s tuskers were now the big boys. “Contact Johan Marais, he will be able to confirm it”, said Ernest. And so he did.

Men’s Style 71

In remote Tongaland, Tembe Elephant Park, has some of the biggest tuskers in Southern Africa. What a place to camp out!

The ubiquitous hack explores Lebanon in a Maserati.

Nice work if you can get it.

WE JOIN THE …

Maserati glitterati

EXCLUSIVE

Philip Moore is always dazzled and exhausted at Beirut’s frenetic pace as the once war-ravaged city is rebuilt and refreshed. But then he has had the right cars for a few days – a fleet of Maseratis.

P

retentious, volatile, friendly and cosmopolitan, Lebanon has been pounded by wars and flooded with refugees but still it thrives. And no matter what, the capital Beirut is always cool. If Beirut is carpet-bombed, they just clean the carpet and start dancing on it again.

After 25 years of intermittent war between internal factions and neighbouring countries, Beirut is patching up its battle scars even more and reclaiming its old label as the Paris of the East. All are hoping it stays that way.

The city is in the middle of a construction boom, with whole neighbourhoods being rebuilt. Two slick new hotels - the longanticipated Le Gray and the Four Seasons - have opened in the past year and a bevy of new bars and restaurants is injecting energy to the city’s already hedonistic nightlife. The 20 Men’s Style

Rally of Lebanon is just over and the Beirut Marathon is about to start. The legendary Sky Bar is flying higher than ever.

with an Al Tayer Motors’ sign a while back by keeping one a couple of days extra! But it was a Maserati!)

This is a town where people like to pose. So if you want to do that, put some of the world’s hottest cars in convoy for customers and media and spend a week or two driving the length and breadth of the tiny nation.

“In terms of sales we are where we expected to be,” says Cini. “We knew it was going to be a very difficult year and we organised ourselves accordingly and we’re quite flexible to the needs of the market. There’s been a contraction in the market and it includes our sales but it was expected. We have lots of new competitors too and they have taken a big slice of the market share but we are in line where we anticipated with our niche products.

Car talk first. That pesky market. I take Middle East and Africa chief Umberto Cini aside for a chat. He’s refreshingly realistic about the tough market conditions in the Middle East. He also knows that a Maserati is a case of once driven never forgotten.

This event was not hard-core. Discussions about the specs tended to come second to “just drive it.” I’ve been in every one o these cars (I even risked being beaten to death

“Quattraporte and Gran Turismo are pretty much equal in the sense of leading the charge for us. The GranCabrio was introduced to the market just before the summer so there hasn’t been extensive

development on the GranCabrio into the market.

“Having said that, our market in the Middle East is not really a Cabrio market. We expect to do some units but it isn’t one we expect to boom. It’s an addition to our line-up. It’s a base that’s covered and it’s a beautiful vehicle. We are happy with the line-up, for sure; it’s doing its job. We have outstanding cars.”

There’s always next year though…

“We don’t have high expectations for the market in 2011 and we expect it to be in line with what we have experienced in 2010. But we have planned well and we are prepared to change our strategy very quickly in reaction to the market situation, whether it is plus or minus.

“This year has been more difficult than the previous one. Customers get spoilt. One point is that many were preparing for an upturn that didn’t go up. And the customers are far more demanding nowadays in a crisis scenario.”

Back top matters Beirut. Whether you’re a first-timer or an old hand, Martyrs Square in Beirut is a place to reflect. It’s Beirut’s Ground Zero. ‘Nuff said. Thankfully the barricades and war tanks are gone. Instead it’s Maseratis for a ride and drive.

Has there been a dwindling of expats buying the famous Trident badge with nationals picking up the slack.

This construction boom is exciting and welcome. It’s been a long time coming; much construction paused intermittently, including in 2006 when Israel started dropping bombs on southern Beirut in an act of lunacy.

“There’s a little bit of that here and there, but not really. The percentage of nationals and expats buying our vehicles is pretty much the same as it was.

There would probably be more contraction of the expats but region-wise it’s relatively unchanged. Country-wise we have some situations like that but the region remains the same concerning this trend.”

Take a stroll around Martyrs Square. I’m chatting to a colleague at the northern end of the infamous Green Line, which just a few years ago cut the city in two, with Moslems in the west and Christians in the east. This part of the line is now a car park. On its far edge, lapped by the Mediterranean, are recent excavations that reveal ruins dating back Men’s Style 21

Contents

30

COVER STORY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: Cut a fashion dash this winter

08

MUSIC NO AXE TO GRIND: The best goss from Keef Richards’ explosive book.

48

ELVIS NOTES: What if the cough mixture king had never been born?

16

FASHION JEANS ARE BACK: Last time we looked they hadn’t gone anywhere.

38

FEATURE YOU RANG SIR? Behind the scenes in the life of a butler.

32

NAOMI: Super Model Survivor

46

48

54

58

52

30

July/August 2011

66

HEALTH RUN HARD: There’s no substitute for running if you want a better body and, above all, to be fit. There are a few things you need to know though.

SUGAR ISN’T SWEET: You can have diabetes and still be fit as a fiddle. But there are some rules. The Gulf is one of the worst regions in the world for diabetes so take this story seriously.

TRAVEL TONGALAND: Dossing down under the stars in Southern Africa.

Awesome.

JORDAN: Touring the treasure of the Middle East.

COLUMNISTS ALEXANDER LINDSAY: The great man sorts out the problem of having problems.

HENRY LONG: Our guest on the Final Say page delves into tipping.

Cover story Abu Dhabi Grand Prix is a big Yas

Men’s Style 5

By Chico Roll

“I used to love MIck, but I haven’t been to hIs dressIng rooM In 20 years.”

Keef Rolls out the dirt on Jagger Legendary Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards revealed the exotic highs and jealous lows of his half-century collaboration with Mick Jagger. The bond between two of The Rolling Stones’ founder members was now so strained, Richards said he has not set foot in Jagger’s dressing room in 20 years.

He added he misses the friend with whom he forged one of music’s most successful writing partnerships.In his much anticipated autobiography, Life, Richards describes in frank detail what sounds like a long and particularly explosive marriage, complete with love rivalries, drug taking, epic arguments and jaw-dropping insults.

HIs relationship with Jagger has continued to be turbulent. Richards, 66, confirmed that his nickname for Jagger is “Your Majesty” or “Brenda.”

Richards said: “It was the beginning of the Eighties when Mick started to become unbearable,” adding, “I think Mick thinks I belong to him.”

He admitted: “I used to love Mick, but I haven’t been to his dressing room in 20 years. Sometimes I think, ‘I miss my

friend.’ I wonder, ‘Where did he go?’”

Jagger has read the book, Richards said. “I think it opened his eyes a bit.”

8 Men’s Style 16

“Image Is lIke a long shadow. even when the sun goes down, you can see It.”

9 Men’s Style 17

The only thing Jagger asked him to take out was a reference to him having used a voice coach.

Richards declined.

He added about Jagger: “We’ve had our beefs but, hey, who doesn’t? You try and

10 18 Men’s Style

keep something together for 50 years,” adding the band was considering going on tour again.The band’s last tour ended in August 2007, sparking the customary speculation that there would be no more.

Despite their fractious relationship,

Richards said they expect to tour again. “I think it’s going to happen. I’ve had a chat with ... Her Majesty. Brenda.”

In the book, for which he was paid an advance of $7.8 million, Richards wrote with candour about his notorious drug taking. He gave up heroin in 1978 after

being busted five times and finally stopped taking cocaine in 2006 after he fell from a tree and needed to have brain surgery.

Sparrow’s father.

“I don’t think John ever left my house, except horizontally.”

Richards also throws in a few choice remarks on the Beatles’ Lennon: “Johnny.

A silly sod, in many ways,” he writes.

He describes finding Lennon lying by the toilet, mumbling: “Don’t move me - these tiles are beautiful.”

“I can’t untie the threads of how much I played up to the part that was written for me,” Richards writes. “I mean the skull ring and the broken tooth and the kohl. Is it half and half? I think in a way your persona, your image, as it used to be known, is like a ball and chain. People think I’m still a junkie but it’s been 30 goddamn years since I used dope. Image is like a long shadow.

Even when the sun goes down, you can see it.”

Richards, 66, met Jagger at the age of four.

The were Richards and Jagger were two of the Stones’ founding members in 1962 and wrote its hit songs, leading the group to sales of more than 200 million albums worldwide.

Richards is similarly frank about other big names as he is concerning Jagger. He said he had long failed to recognize Johnny Depp when the Oscar-nominated star had been hanging out with his son for two years.

“Then one day he was at dinner, and I’m like, ‘Whoa!’ Scissorhands!”

Depp, who played the lead role in the 1990 movie “Edward Scissorhands,” credits Richards for inspiring his character Captain Jack Sparrow in the Pirates of the Caribbean films, and the two are currently shooting the series’ fourth installment, where Richards reprises his role as 11 Men’s Style 19

During his addict days in the 1960s and 1970s, he spent a decade on the “People Most Likely to Die List.”

“Well, I’m not putting death on the agenda,” he told an interviewer.”I don’t want to see my old friend Lucifer just yet.”

While claiming to have given up all drugs, he added: “I’m just waiting for them to invent something more interesting. I’m all ready to road Richards himself is famous for his insatiable appetite for drugs.

He said he does not regret his exploits.

“I loved a good high. And if you stay up, you get the songs that everyone else misses because they’re asleep,” Richards said.

Now,Richards talks about the women who mattered to him the most. But more importantly, his descriptions of them - and his reactions to them - provide insights into the man that seemingly contradict his rough-hewn and sometimes distant persona.

One of the more surprising revelations in “Life” is Richards’ inherent shyness with women. He had a preoccupation with “finding the right line, or one that hadn’t been used before.” And the tunesmith, so spot on about his music, writes, “I just never had that thing with women” and “’Hey, baby’ is just not my come-on.”

Despite his reservations about how to approach the fair sex, Richards had enormous success. And in “Life,” the reader learns what turns Keith Richards on.

test it.”

Richards said he has no regrets about taking heroin. “There was a lot of experience in there. I loved a good high.

If you stay up, you get the songs that everyone else misses because they’re asleep.”

Presley worshipped his mother, John Lennon venerated his Yoko, and

12 20 Men’s Style

Eric Clapton created his “Layla.”

“My first impression was of a woman who was very strong,” Richards writes about Swedish beauty Anita Pallenberg, whom he began eyeing at the end of 1966, nearly four years after the formation of the Rolling Stoness.

At the time, she was dating his band mate Brian Jones, whom Richards describes as “a woman beater.” “But the one woman in

the world you did not want to try and beat up on was Anita Pallenberg. Every time they had a fight, Brian would come out bandaged and bruised.”

Describing a house in the south of France which became a production site for the band, and a large number of other people, Pallenberg “became the bouncer, getting rid of people sleeping under beds and overstaying their welcome.”

Richards and Pallenberg had three children together, one of whom died in infancy.

He likes artistic women. “Anita came out of an artistic world, and she had quite a bit of talent herself – she was certainly a lover of art and pally with its contemporary practitioners and wrapped up in the pop art world,” Richards writes about Pallenberg, who could draw.

Richards described Pallenberg as “extremely bright” and speaking three languages, which was “one of the reasons she sparked me.”

Years later, when he got together with Patti Hansen, Richards wrote in his diary: “Unbelievably she is the most beautiful (physically) specimen in the WORLD. But that ain’t it! It certainly helps but it’s her mind, her joy of life and (wonders) she thinks this battered junkie is the guy

Men’s Style 13 21

she loves. I’m kicking 40 and besotted.”

“I loved a good hIgh. and If you stay up, you get the songs that everyone picture – there’s a sweetness and sensibility towards the else mIsses because women he’s been involved with.” they’re asleep.”

When it came to fashion, “[Anita] could put anything together and look good.” And then, in a twist, Richards reveals he began to wear her clothes. “I would wake up and put on what was lying around. Sometimes it was mine, and sometimes it was the old lady’s, but we were exactly the same size so it didn’t matter. If I sleep with someone, I at least have the right to wear her clothes.”

my discursive way of life.”

Surprised that this leathery-visaged chap is so charming?

In 2005, he made a telling comment to Esquire. “Women are a beautiful complication,

“I loved her soul and I knew in my heart I wanted to make this thing legitimate,” Richards writes, describing his feelings four years into his relationship with Hansen.

“I am married to a most beautiful woman,” he wrote in his notebook in 2006, of Patti Hansen. “Elegant, graceful and as down to earth as you can get.

Smart, practical, caring, thoughtful and a very hot horizontal consideration … I must say that her practicality and logic confound me because she makes sense of

Keith receives an award from Jonny Depp 14 22 Men’s Style

With his children older, and with a stable relationship – he and Hansen have been married for a remarkable 26 years and have two daughters, Theodora and Alexandra – what’s next for Richards?

Here are five notable revelations from Richards’ book:

Keith hates lots of people...

“There wasn’t a predatory aspect to Keith Richard’s involvement with women,” said Anthony DeCurtis, popular music critic and writer, and a contributing editor at Rolling Stone. “Beneath his stereotypical portrait – he’s willing to embody a pirate-like role that’s only part of the

The legendary guitarist doesn’t hold back, especially when it comes to his fellow musicians. Prince? “An overrated midget.” Elton John is “an old bitch,” John Lennon a “silly sod,” and of Bruce Springsteen he writes, “if there was anything better around, he’d still be working the bars of New Jersey.”

(Left to right) Charlie Watts, Keith Richards, Director Martin Scorsese, Mick Jagger and Ronnie Wood backstage during filming of the Rolling Stones concert film “Shine a Light.” Photo Credit: Brigitte Lacombe. © 2007

... but especially Mick Jagger Richards reserves most of his scorn for his bandmate and sparring partner Mick Jagger, whom he nicknames “Your Majesty.” Jagger has been “unbearable” since the 1980s, he writes. Of Jagger’s 1985 solo album, “She’s The Boss,” he says: “It’s like Mein Kampf. Everybody had a copy, but nobody listened to it.” In the most personal barb, he reveals that Jagger has a “tiny todger.”

His secret to a long life? Use good drugs Many commentators express surprise that Richards has reached the age of 66, given his liberal abuse of almost every kind of illegal narcotic ever created. Richards addresses this, putting his longevity down to his use of the “finest, finest cocaine and the purest, purest heroin” — a

combination he famously nicknamed “The breakfast of champions.” He actually gave up heroin in 1979, but carried on using cocaine until 2006. “I’ve done so much bloody blow in my life, I don’t miss it an inch,” he says. “I think it gave me up.”

Girl-swapping with bandmates Richards began his relationship with

Anita Pallenberg while she was going out with his fellow band member Brian Jones.

The pair went on to have three children, even though Jagger slept with her in the early stages of their relationship. Richards got revenge though: He slept with Jagger’s girlfriend Marianne Faithfull. In yet another personal swipe at Jagger, he writes: “I was knocking Marianne, man.

While you’re missing it, I’m kissing it.”

Yes, he did snort his dead father’s ashes The rumour — long denied by Richards — that he snorted the ashes of his dead father Bert with a line of cocaine is partly true, reveals the book. “As I took the lid off the box, a fine spray of his ashes blew out onto the table,” he writes. “I couldn’t just brush him off, so I wiped my finger over it and snorted the residue. Ashes to ashes, father to son.”

Men’s Style 15 23

dig your denim

l tfu er r a dg do 16 24 Men’s Style

t a h t , s e t r n e pa ywh e m i n t a y k n r a

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Men’s Style 17 25

ermanno scervino 18 10 26 Men’s Style

malboro classics 19 11 Men’s Style 27

gucci 20 10 28 Men’s Style

prps

The unassuming couple... Posh & Becks step out

21 11 Men’s Style 29

insight //

Want to be a Macho man: know the risk…

Perhaps it’s a sign of cultural maturity, but then again, it could also be something entirely different.

Either way, only the British, and maybe a few other European populations, could seriously want go public with a report arguing that men are now supposed

and, surprisingly, the findings have added to previous research about what people look for in others when choosing potential partners.

“What I’ve shown is that when people look at masculine faces they see them as being associated with dominance -

Left: We love saying “hello” to our little friend Al Pacino- gangsta hardman. Above: Stallone made a living from portraying macho roles. Right: Sean Connery - Shaken and stirred macho hero.

to look girly if they want to attract a long-term partner. Then again, if their performances in the last football World Cup are anything to go by - perhaps this whole situation is a little more understandable.

Reuters reported that a British “study” had found women now want men with full lips and feminine features rather than a square jaw, rugged complexion and perhaps a tough attitude to boot.

Evolutionary psychologist Lynda Boothroyd led the study into masculinity 22 10 32 Men’s Style

By Boutros Hamid

which is a good thing in evolution but less good as a long-term partner,” she said. In the study, published in the journal Personality and Individual Differences, the researchers asked more than 400 British men and women to judge digitally altered pictures of male faces made to look more masculine or feminine. The participants were then asked to predict personality traits such as dominance, ambition, wealth and whether a person would be faithful or make a good parent, said Boothroyd, a researcher at Durham University.

Mr.T = The Macho Man.

This is where the macho men lost out, big time. The study showed these masculine types with larger noses, smaller eyes and thicker eyebrows were viewed as less faithful and worse parents. Instead it was the “feminine” faces with wide eyes, finer features and thinner, more curved eyebrows that were chosen as the best potential long-term mates, Boothroyd said.

And faces that also appeared healthier - like those with better complexion were also seen as more desirable in all personality traits.

Boothroyd defended the study by suggesting it counters claims that masculinity is some kind of indicator for genetic fitness and/or immunity to disease.

“Here what I’m showing is healthiness is really positive and masculinity isn’t,” she

said. “We shouldn’t be thinking about masculinity in terms of health, which is a totally different thing in women’s minds, but in terms of social dominance.”

Now, ordinarily, these kinds of studies wouldn’t be an issue but it becomes somewhat of a concern when a renowned hard man footballer like Roy Keane, the former captain of Manchester United, goes public with the reasons why he missed out on signing some players to the club he now coaches, Sunderland.

“I can understand the attraction of people wanting to go to London - if you are talking about Arsenal, Chelsea or Tottenham. If people want to go somewhere else to another football club then fair enough, as long as it is for a footballing reason.

“But there are players going to clubs in London simply because it is London. To me, that is wrong. It is not a football move, it is a lifestyle move and those are the type of people you don’t want at your club. It is not a problem for me but it is a fact.

To me, that player is weak because his wife runs his life.

Keane conceded that several players he wanted to sign opted to play for London based football clubsin the English Premiership. Instead because their wives thought the shopping was better there.

He was one of the most feared players to have graced the premiership and has already carved out a reputation for himself as a stoic Below: Hulk Hogan wouldn’t rate a day coach. There might in the shops to an hour in the ring. Below be an element of right: Where would Beckham be without sour grapes in all of his wife and shops like Louis Vuitton? this but Keane wasn’t having any of it.

the club’s underperforming players.

He revealed: “A couple of years ago I nearly went to Juventus. People spoke to me about Turin and told me Milan would be a nicer place to go. I told them I wasn’t going for the shops, I am going because it is Juventus.

Ray Keane was a leader on the pitch and is now a hard nosed coach.

“These so-called big stars are people we are supposed to be looking up to. Well, they are weak and soft. If they don’t want to come because their wife wants to go shopping in London, it’s a sad state of affairs,” said Keane.

Keane has spent nearly 30 million pounds on new players this summer but has seen several of his top targets spurn a move to the north-east.

Sunderland which is based in Southern England is newly promoted club to the Premiership but they finished bottom of the league with a record low of 15 points the last time they were promoted to the top flight.

“That happens at the big clubs as well. I could name four big players and clearly their wives and girlfriends are running their lives because they are doing these photoshoots and that kind of stuff. They say they are not comfortable doing it and are being dragged along. Well don’t do it.”

Keane felt overbearing wives and girlfriends were to blame for Sunderland’s difficulties in attracting top players and feels the current generation of players need to get their priorities in order.

The straight-talking Keane has hit the headlines in the past for tirades against certain fans at Manchester United who enjoyed corporate hospitality - who he labelled the prawn sandwich brigade - and

“Maybe it is because I am not a great shopper but football has got to be a priority. You don’t need to live in Manchester or London to be happy. You don’t need to be surrounded by expensive shops or fancy cars.

“We have had one or two players this year and their wives are clearly part of the package. We had one player this summer who didn’t even have the courtesy to call us back because his wife wanted to move to London - and shopping was mentioned.”

23 11 Men’s Style 33

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA AUTUMN WINTER 2011

In the Mood forChina 24 Men’s Style

S

ome men live between two worlds, carrying in themselves a blend of West and East just as perfectly balanced as Yin and Yang. You can find them in Europe or America, although business, love or destiny will inevitably set their path towards the East. Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates these fascinating and deeply contemporary individuals by devoting the 2011 Fall/Winter collection to China, a country very well known to the brand: Zegna arrived there first 20 years ago, and has been successfully established ever since.

Men’s Style

25

The Chinese ability for shaping their destiny serves as an inspiration for rigorous clothes, borrowing some of their appeal from Chinese Revolution uniforms and mixing it with the flawless and hypermasculine style of 1940s clothing. Their sober palette can be seen as a perfect passport for travelling to far countries and distant cultures. Anthracite greys turning to black, tea and mahogany tones ranging from red to brown and touches of bamboo green, revealing unexpected, shiny silk details woven with the image of a celebrated piece of classical Chinese art*. This unique detail, more or less visible, rendered in lacquer red or bronze, is the trademark of the entire collection.

26 Men’s Style

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25

Silhouettes are defined by straight shouldered three-button suits and jackets, as well as streamlined high-cuff trousers, to be worn with snug raglan overcoats. The sporting attitude is echoed by utility touches and tweed-effect or macro Prince of Wales fabrics. Moving away from their usual roughness, Zegna reinvents them as sumptuous, bi-color “Cashmere Duo”.

The new ”Cashco Goffrato” waffle fabric makes its debut, interweaving worn-looking cotton and wool. Paying homage to the Chinese theme, the collection's only wool pinstripe, the “15milmil15”, hints at the shape of bamboo canes. The outerwear is nonchalant and practical, with waxed cotton and leather peacoats, as well as buffedoff shearling duffle coats. Many hand-crafted cashmere sweaters, some of them with suede embroideries, also inspired from the imperial painting.

28 Men’s Style

“

Anthracite greys turning to black, tea and mahogany tones ranging from red to brown and touches of bamboo green, revealing unexpected, shiny silk details woven with the image of a celebrated piece of classical Chinese art

“

Men’s Style

29

To our man, the day is a time for action and conquest, whereas the night brings along the welldeserved pleasures of a new lifestyle. That’s when he can rediscover his own refinement and sensuality and, protected by retro evening glasses, embrace the elusive mysteries of nightlife. Zegna’s tailoring excellence provides him with silk satin and velvet garments in cuts that are both sexy and sophisticated, silk ottoman long jackets with an additional light padding in the daring kimono-cut version, lined with the same color print silk that can be found in the small button collar shirts.

Smart echoes of oriental themes enrich the accessories, like the leather combat-type boot with a slightly upcurved tip and the ‘slipper-like’ shoe, both with a hand-finished thick sole. Dedicated to globetrotters are iPad shoulder cases, waist pouches and new upgraded belts with useful solutions for techno-gadgets. Holdall bags come in printed leather, and the “Duo Ties” contain a hidden Zegna seal in Chinese handwriting.

30 Men’s Style

“

“

Dedicated to globetrotters are iPad shoulder cases, waist pouches and new upgraded belts with useful solutions for techno-gadgets

Men’s Style

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COVER STORY//

The power babes’ file They are in middle age yet remain two of the hottest women in the world. They are also mega-powerful with their influence growing year after year. Both strutted the fashion runways as supermodels but became even more than that. The tempestuous Naomi Campbell, the trailblazer for black models, has jus notched two and a half decades of covergirl and catwalk glory. The other is Italian Carla Bruni, the first lady of France, who still turns heads and keeps the gossip columnists guessing.

Naomi: supermodel survivor S

he has had run-ins with tabloids, cocaine issues, anger management problems and a man-killer reputation, but somehow despite all this Naomi Campbell finds herself celebrating 25 years of survival in the supermodel game.

This is the woman who has chucked phones at assistants, was fired by an agency on the ground that “no money or prestige could further justify the abuse that has been imposed” and who was called by a Vanity Fair columnist the “biggest brat in the modelling business”?

But some are asking if it is possible that the years have mellowed her. She also celebrated her 40th birthday in May in Cannes at a lavish party organised by her billionaire boyfriend Vladislav Doronin.

“I used to fight everything,” she said. “I used to be, like, ‘Why am I in a restaurant 32 10 Men’s Style

and that person is staring at me?’ I used to put on a pair of glasses and a hat and then wonder, ‘How do they know it’s me?’ That’s my irrationality.”

Now, she added, “I’m a recovering person in progress. Every rehabilitation program I’ve been in says the same thing: getting past the denial is half the battle. Take responsibility for your actions. No matter who you are . . . if you don’t do that, you’ll find yourself living in an insanity world.”

The leggy supermodel was born to an 18-yearold unmarried showgirl, and neither Campbell nor her mother have ever publicly named her father. She is of Jamaican-Chinese extraction, raised in a working-class neighborhood of London, and she was ‘discovered’ by a fashion executive at 15 while window shopping in London’s Covent Garden.

Her breakthrough as a model was the cover shot for Elle in April 1986, and she later became the first black model to grace the cover of the French edition of Vogue. She says she does not always wear underwear, and noted actor Rupert Everett has said he would love to have Campbell’s body.

In the wake of Hurricane Katrina, which ravaged America’s Gulf Coast in 2005, Campbell organized Fashion for Relief, with help from pals Cindy Crawford and Nicole Richie, and numerous models and designers. At a 2001 charity event honoring Nelson Mandela she engaged in a lingering liplock with fellow model Kate Moss.

Less charitably, Campbell battled London’s Daily Mirror in court for several years, first losing but then winning on appeal of her claim that the paper invaded her privacy when it published photos showing her leaving a Narcotics Anonymous meeting.

Men’s Style 33 11

COVER STORY//

In recent years, Campbell has made headlines for her temper tantrums, and has reportedly lost some modeling assignments from agencies and photographers unwilling to work with the model.

She has even become embroiled in the so-called blood “diamonds row”. The fashion icon countered allegations that former Liberian ruler Charles Taylor gave her a fistful of diamonds as a flirtatious gift, telling his war crimes trial that a pouch of “very small, dirty-looking stones” was delivered to her room in the dark of night.

The famously petulant supermodel’s testimony did not provide the smoking gun prosecutors had sought to show Taylor traded in so-called “blood diamonds” to arm rebels in neighboring Sierra Leone. But her appearance drew attention to Africa’s deadly conflicts and the illegal use of resources to finance war.

Charles Taylor Naomi’s court apperance

34 12 Men’s Style

Campbell was calm and composed as she denied knowingly receiving a gift of diamonds from Taylor after a celebritystudded 1997 dinner at Nelson Mandela’s presidential mansion in South Africa.

“I opened my door and two men were there and gave me a pouch and said, ‘A gift for you,’” Campbell said, adding she did not know the men or what was inside the bag.

Instead, she said she was awakened later that night by a knock on her door.

When she opened it the next morning, she said she found a few stones.

“They were kind of dirty-looking pebbles,” she said, adding: “When I’m used to seeing diamonds I’m used to seeing them shiny in a box. If someone hadn’t said they were diamonds I wouldn’t have guessed ... that they were.”

Prosecutors had hoped Campbell would 35 Men’s Style 13

testify that Taylor gave her the diamonds, which would back up their allegations he traded guns to rebels in neighboring Sierra Leone in exchange for uncut diamonds — known as “blood diamonds” for their role in financing conflicts — during the

36 14 Men’s Style

Naomi and Posh

country’s 1992-2002 civil war, which left more than 100,000 dead.

It would also have undermined Taylor’s credibility, since he has denied ever trading in diamonds. Taylor, 62, says he is innocent of the 11 war crimes charges he faces, including murder, rape, sexual enslavement and recruiting child soldiers.

Prosecutors allege that from his seat of power in Liberia, Taylor armed, trained and commanded Sierra Leone rebels who murdered and mutilated thousands of civilians across the border.

After fighting for months to avoid testifying, Campbell arrived at the courthouse fashionably late.

In contrast to her usual cutting-edge fashion style, she wore a demure creamcolored silk two-piece outfit, her dark hair piled into a classic chignon, and a silver “evil-eye” necklace around her neck.

She answered questions from prosecutor Brenda Hollis for nearly two hours as Taylor, his blue pinstripe suit accented with gold cuff links and a diamondstudded gold ring, looked on.

Men’s Style 37 15

service in style //

You rang m’lord Philip Moore takes a sincere look at the discreet world of butlers

T

here was life before the Internet. There was life even before the fax (remember them?) But what walked the earth before the butler? Not a lot.

They have been around a long, long time.

But the role of the Butler has changed, or so I was reliably assured while researching this story. A butler knows pretty much everything these days.

For example, a butler would know that 38 34 Men’s Style

it would be cool to have “Hey Jude” blaring from your stereo, but only a fool would have “Paradise by the Dashboard Light” pumping out. And should you be entertaining, no butler worth his salt, pepper, tofu or seaweed wrap would put on a Billy Joel CD unless he had the Beatles down pat.

Moreover, if you are the sort who behaves like W. Axl Rose, from Guns’n’Roses, you may have a butler in modern times. I would have thought

Axl Rose’s butler, if he has one (companies rarely confirm the name of their clients) would be forced to do a few more things than iron a newspaper, which we have long been led to believe is the butler’s stock in trade.

“In some situations it is still relevant to iron a newspaper,” says Josephine Ive of Magnums Butlers (motto: “The science behind gracious service.”)

“But I think it’s all moved with the

moved to Australia and worked, as she likes to say “for Australia’s royal family, the Packers.”

former U.S. president Bill Clinton.

Actor Will Smith is a satisfied client, we’re informed.

She is referring to the late Kerry Packer, who was one of the world’s richest men and his son, James, who has taken over the reins of the billion-dollar empire that includes media, gambling, property, farming and sports.

“The butler of today is more of a household manager,” according to Josephine. “The boss may have a number of houses. There will be many staff to organise and manage.

In the old days the butlers

“James Packer – now there’s a man of style for you.”

Young James, a friend of Tom Cruise among others, has gone on to become a highly successful business man on a global scale.

Magnums Butlers has its headquarters at Coes Creek, Queensland in Australia, which doesn’t seem to be all that stately a home. A bit more Crocodile Dundee, in actual fact. It turns out to be part of the pricey Sunshine Coast hinterland (tennis ace Thomas

times. Being a butler is not as stiff and statuesque as it was.”

Josephine brought a major venture for the training of butlers to the Gulf. Butlers-in-waiting if you will. A training programme for aspirants is now in the UAE and it will eventually service the greater Middle East, she says. The butler scene is a welltrodden trail in the region, but Magnums and Josephine seem to have quite a few things to, err, bring to the table.

A Brit who was employed in the industry in the UK for years, including for the British Royal Family, Josephine

Josephine Iv e (centre) with

a team of grad uates

tended to be more in stately homes.

Now there are often many homes to deal with. The homes may be much, much bigger. And it will be a new house.”

So how does a butler play first receiver to all of this.

The butler of today is more of a household manager.

Muster has a place there, as did the late George Harrison).Josephine also informs me that Australians hire as many, if not more, butlers than anywhere in the world “if you look at it pro rata.”

“Technology is the key. The modern butler needs to be acquainted with the stock market for example. He needs to know what the Footsie is doing, and the Nasdaq.

“There are people like the late Kerry Packer who employed a great deal of butlers. We work for government houses, consulates and embassies.

There’s a lot of old money there too.” Josephine’s firm looks after a variety of political forums in Asia and has had staff appointed to work for

“Cars are so different now and they are always changing – a modern-day butler needs to understand them, or how to clean things like a guitar.

People collect things. They always collected books, but it might be trophies or, in the case of one of our clients, electric guitars.”

39 Men’s Style 35

Who owns the guitars? Anyone interesting?

“It is someone well known, but we always protect the privacy and integrity of the butler and the client.”

As times have changed it would seem that being the butler for someone like Shannon Doherty or Joan Jett might be a tad different to doing the job for Lord Gilligan III. It was always said David Niven was the consumate gent and would make the perfect butler.

“Well, one of the challenges is that the people the butlers for nowadays are likely to be more temperamental than when it was estatebased.

“Some of the bosses now may well sleep during the day and play at night, or work at night.

“Some of the millionaires and billionaires are embracing the sudden wealth. There can be problems that come with that.

“But the butlers were always equals in a family. Now it is even more so and they must be able to converse on the same level.

“If the boss sees something in Men’s Style he wants, the butler needs to be able to procure it. So it’s more of a concierge role. It may be a chauffeur for a new Maybach that is required. Whatever it is, the butler needs to be able to source it.”

Now then, life is full of decisions.

40 36 Men’s Style

Everyone wants a David Niven

How far, ahem, does the butler have to go when requested to perform tasks that may go against the grain. Is it “yes”, “no” or is there some sort of sliding scale.

“They certainly do not have to have sex with their employer,” says Josephine.

So that’s a no-no? “It’s not a credo.

You draw your own line. “If you don’t like what you’re asked to do you, don’t do it.”

What about some of the rock star types who can be given to moments of going over the top? Would it be necessary to open the window for an errant rocker wanting to throw the TV into the street? Or would the butler be obliged to go and score, you know, the stuff? Can you draw the line there too?

“If you are asked for sex you have the right to say no. Should you

be asked to perform any form of criminal activity you would say no?

We would advise that if anyone were involved with their clients in any activity concerning drugs they would go down with them. They are told they should never get involved with anything of that nature.”

I have seen or met people who might make really good butlers. Others I’m not sure about. Maybe I’m wrong but NFL coach Vince Lombardi didn’t strike me as a butler type although he was a great organiser and motivator. Would the boss welcome Lombardi’s home-spun philosophy? I’m not convinced about cricket’s Shane Warne or rugby’s Tanu Umaga either. Although Warnie might have been better to let his butler handle his SMS duties.

“He sniffed the bottle, not the cork. This was 200 pounds a bottle. The boss walked over and poured it down the sink.”

So what makeS a good Butler?

“They need to be discreet, wellgroomed,” says Josephine. “ But above all, they need a presence. It takes a takes a special individual to develop into a person who would take care of a household. We see if they have what it takes – they often don’t know that they have these special qualities themselves.

The course can change their mind or reaffirm it. We don’t want them to flit from job to job”.

the Gulf, they all want to source good people.”

y land rate on dr n’t just ope Butlers do

The Gulf training is be “culturally sensitive but those trained will be for outside the region too”, according to Josephine.

Venture capital firm Source Capital partnered with Magnums here in the Gulf and a local spokesman was excited about the project.

He says the cosmopolitan nature of the UAE makes it the perfect hub for the butler training.

“In addition to the hotel training we are looking at the palaces, residences – elite families who make homes in

So the humble maid and houseboy can be trained to a level where they can be dubbed butlers? But could a Sri Lankan butler, for instance, easily swap between cleaning cars and changing sheets to dishing out the canapes at a function that would rival Elton John’s garden party? “We can help with the next step,” says Joesphine. Magnum also aims to provide many of its graduates for the burgeoning and mega-money super yacht scene in the Gulf.

“We aim to break away from the stewards and stewardesses, which we call “stueys”in the industry,” says Josephine. “We need people on the super-yachts who would be of the same calibre as those who would be in the households of those who own the super-yachts.”

Josephine has a couple of interesting case studies. The butler might look visually compelling but you have to get it right. It’s not all plain sailing. “A guy

once opened a bottle of wine for his boss,” Josephine notes. “He [the butler that is] sniffed the bottle, not the cork.

This was 200 pounds a bottle. The boss walked over and poured it down the sink.”

There are probably some bosses saturated with so much belief they are right they might do something distasteful with the cork, but this guy didn’t go that far.

However, it does surprise that a qualified, competent butler would stick his hooter in the boss’s bottle rather than on the cork.

“He was trained to do it properly but he simply forgot,” says Josephine.

Then there was the private party for a dozen guests.

“It was for 12 people. The boss was arriving in town by private aircraft.

There was a top chef, another butler too. The guests were in the drawing room.

“He arrived and said … ‘we’ve decided to go out for dinner’.” The crestfallen butler called Josephine for advice.

“I said, ‘enjoy the good wine and good food.’ ” 41 Men’s Style 37

elvis // on leaving the building

The King as a G.I. in Germany during the late 50’s

42 38 Men’s Style

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at k th thin ron, o t ble sse Ga redi e inc other, Je o their r o d m r ext t ven arke his b y is e in, but buried n an unm r o t His s was a tw nd was ssippi in i a s Elvis at birth in Miss is’s). n wa le t k i lv c t d E a e nno s s d i i h o e e d s h L h w s s c t ’ e a e g,” 0s day nt nt serv pact re lobe thin pare (imagin y de g s no pre-195 ly in fro e a v w a resle se his im s of the oved e e gr acts u m r o. ther polit beca ll corne en far re is so lvis, g of the rooned rry Com E e a r t n e i c o into pics of is legacy es it’s “Bef d as say singers tyle of P d to s r te a e l o raise h u and music. H sometim isn’t u t q was ts. He s pop nds in i s s v m n i l e e v o s E l s fr ). wh nce ba artis 35 E lieve mpa ving in19 nd black f da enco ult to be ’t still li 6 o 1 t E top 10 ELVIS HIt a n c s us S: 1 t yL diffi nitely is Aug d in blue lack .t ’S S n o fi n s i e Ha b e n E v s d l r a r E o e e M B m t’ ited ret ed the dh s tI, goLd 5. Hound m g i i n t e v a S r p , ( u k u t r g d m m R h a a n s n e i g i o F a i h m e v t i h v l l I m L c g r a d l e a v e o t i i s / . h r stil p o b c r c t H i a t d w o t o ES B a s R n c i e s u a o i l t u E o Eg a h m m h r H i o e c e t s a r s p In iv e er uR chu ligious ,2 S/ ecau ard s imat any re ar yo x The existed b downw and pr ange in rs e re otta k h n g t p I o d a E , no t / h s r e f c r c e h t o a e v c H r h g g e t u W c H n n e a i u i s s d b n g W , e f d n I i d o e 2 x n beg moral, s creat ethora then l a s g i of im o one h ting a p ssing. n h a s c n a illion But ut colle , or in p in 42 m 6 and $ o y h a e t wi s, th n 05-0 e, there he w d t r g o i c alon nam eals per ’s re Elvis ensing d ks to his newspa m o , t lin ly in n lic rt fr Apa made i interne onstant mercials , Pop s c n g l m o o ca s im son 6 milli to h cards, c d musi s. s 4 e c e n s e th en eting est E ry jok g his efer e are r lines, gr rabilia, W st centu rroundin ng) 1 o head st memo d even 2 aigns su theme s BMG, i p tour hows an ge cam rld Cup ny, Sony e u h s o a Idol ’s still h 2002 W d comp stay at t for at r l re s , l o ’ t e k c r e h n e a i h r T h , h ic (t d, if his with it album c s u m ndee o and to d i and nything e single ths. n h a has f both t few mo o t x p e o n t the least

Men’s Style 43 39

Elvis and the Jail House Rock

44 40 Men’s Style

top 10 elvis aspirants, promoters and people he inspired: 1. Eminem 2. Paul Simon (“Graceland”) 3. Keith Richards 4. Nicolas Cage (Honeymoon in Vegas) 5. Cher (“Walking in Memphis”) 6. Bob Dylan 7. Harvey Keitel (Finding Graceland) 8. Andy Kaufman (comedian) 9. John Lennon 10. Bill Clinton Follow the $: RCA Records owned all of Elvis’s recordings. The RCA Records Label was bought

by BMG in the 1980s and in 2004 BMG merged with Sony Music Entertainment to become Sony BMG. Sony BMG owns Elvis’s recordings and they continue to use the RCA Records label for issuing Elvis releases. They also have a special Elvis collectors label, Follow That Dream Records.The various composers/publishers own the songs themselves. Confusion often reigns about the ownership of the recordings, as opposed to that of the songs. Fans also get somewhat confused about the deal Elvis and his manager, Colonel Tom Parker, made with RCA in 1973, but suffice to say Sony BMG now own all the recordings and it’s where they’re likely to stay for as long as Sony BMG is solvent.

Through him the four-man group that would become the template for every generation of rock band that followed was also popularised - from the Beatles to Creedence Clearwater Revival, Led Zeppelin and on to the Arctic Monkeys, Silverchair and others.

Bill Haley, Little Richard and others started rock and roll, but Elvis brought the guitar to the forefront and the instrument became an extension of his personality and sexuality. It also became the lead instrument of a new era and in his wake came other 20th-century icons like Jimi Hendrix and Eric Clapton.

In America, Bobby Zimmerman listened to Elvis long before he’d heard of Woody Guthrie and changed his name to Bob Dylan. Without Elvis to open the door, it’s doubtful artists like Buddy Holly, who would later so influence Paul McCartney, and the Everly Brothers would have got a break. And without the Everly harmonies, who would the early Beatles and Simon and Garfunkel or bands like Greenday have had to copy?

With Elvis came a new kind of idol, one more potent than any film star had ever been - a rebellious, modern, sexy, young rock star, a species seemingly from a different planet to the family entertainers who’d preceded him. His popularity forced up radio sales and the development of the music industry as a whole, too, which is now a multi-billion dollar juggernaut, which, sadly, seems to be filled with less real talent every year.

Like all great cultural icons, Elvis’s inroads into popular culture had wider social

repercussions. He came from a poor white family and that helped in some ways to authenticate his message, but in the mid1950s, for instance, many southern US states were staunchly segregated, with radio stations only playing records by either white or black performers.

The London Telegraph noted that there were even separate charts for black rhythm and blues performers. With a style which

With Elvis came a new kind of idol, one more potent than any film star had ever been - a rebellious, modern, sexy, young rock star, a species seemingly from a different planet to the family entertainers who’d preceded him. owed so much to rhythm and blues, Elvis, alongside acts such as Johnny Cash and Jerry Lee Lewis, brought black music to a much wider audience of white teenagers.

And Elvis remains a legend – from Elvis wedding chapels in Las Vegas, to thousands of impersonators and the city of Memphis where his home, Graceland, is the second most visited house in America after the White House.

It helped propagate his legend that his wife, Priscilla Beaulieu, who he met when he was a GI in Germany in 1959 went on to act in shows such as Dynasty and the Naked Gun movies. Their daughter, Lisa Marie, also married Michael Jackson and then Nicolas Cage, which kept things typically high profile.

Still, without the Elvis none of it would have been possible. Memphis and grew 45 Men’s Style 41

fitness //

Running HaRd Avoiding chronic pain or injury is crucial for anyone who wants to remain active late in life. It’s also crucial for anyone wanting to strive for another level of fitness. This month our resident fitness writer – Mohammed Junaid Azmuth – who is one of only three Samurais living outside of Japan, returns with some tips to keep you keeping on.

H

ave you ever had pain in your knee region when walking down stairs? Have your knees ever begun paining after sitting for long periods of time? The chances are that you have experienced these symptoms at least once in your life. The American College of Sport Medicine has stated that every person would have experienced patello-femoral pain syndrome (PFPS) at least once in their lives.

resultant is that the quadriceps muscles on the outside of the leg is too strong compared to the muscles on the inside of the leg. This means that the knee cap will be pulled out towards the stronger muscle. The knee cap begins to come in contact with a piece of bone called the lateral condyle.

In a healthy knee, the knee cap will remain between this bone and the medial condyle on the inside of the knee. This contact with the lateral condyle results in friction of the under surface of the knee cap with the lateral condyle. This friction leads to damage of the cartilage behind the knee cap.

This is what brings about pain when walking down stairs and when sitting for extended periods.

This friction can lead to osteo-arthritic changes behind the knee cap - later on.

Patello-femoral pain (runner’s knee) is a syndrome due to muscle imbalances, due either to muscle weakness or poor biomechanics. Poor biomechanics actually means that your feet and hips are not in alignment. This is typical of people who have flat feet (pronation). This pronation of the feet results in the thigh bones (femur) and the shin bones (tibia) sitting in a position that decreases the efficiency of the muscles to function as a balanced unit. This implies that certain muscle groups will take on more strain than what would naturally be experienced.

With regard to patello-femoral pain the common

46 48 Men’s Style

Check if you Pronate: This is usually when your arches of your feet are in contact with the floor. Ask your local chiropodist, or shoe specialist to analyze whether you pronate of not. If you do pronate, then shoes that protect against that are recommended.

Strengthen your QuadricepS and hamStringS: This will need you to go to a gym and do some strength work. The most important exercises would are: The standard squat, lunges, leg curl, hamstring stretch and quadricep stretch.

The STandard SquaT

lungeS

Purpose: To strengthen the leg musculature including the hips Execution: Stand erect with a barbell on your back (Near your neck), Ensure that your feet are at least shoulder width apart with your toes pointing out at 45 degrees. Take a deep breath, and slowly lower yourself until your thighs are parallel to the floor. From this position exhale and explode up to the erect position. (Twice a week, five sets, five reps, 30 seconds rest.)

Precautions: Ensure that you have warmed up sufficiently prior to execution. Do not allow the knees to move in front of the toes at the bottom of the movement.

Purpose: To strengthen the quadriceps, adductor and abductor muscles unilaterally.

Execution: Stand with a set of dumbbells in either hand.

Take a deep breath and step forward with your right foot.

In this movement ensure that the front leg is bent 90 degrees. The back leg should also bend to 90 degrees. Push back from this position to the start position and then repeat on the other leg.

Precautions: Ensure that your back remains straight through out the movement. Do not jerk or bounce through this movement.

leg curl

quadricep STreTch

Purpose: To develop hamstring strength.

Execution: Lie face down, with feet hooked under the rollers of the leg curl machine. Ensure that the legs are slightly bent with the feet turned out to 45 degrees. Slowly contract your hamstrings to pull the rollers up to your buttocks in a controlled fashion. As your heels get close to your buttocks begin to turn your feet so that your toes face each other. This will decrease the stresses around the knee joint. Slowly return to the starting position.

Precautions: Always ensure that you control the weight through out the movement. Failure to do so can result in a severe injury.

neuTral hamSTring STreTch

Purpose: To increase the flexibility of the hamstrings and decrease neural tension around these muscles.

Execution: Sit on the floor with your feet straight out in front of you. Place the heel of your right foot on top of your toes of the left foot. Ensure that you are sitting as upright as possible with your hands placed at your side. Slowly lean your trunk forward toward the toes, but stabilizing with your hands until you feel a pulling sensation in your hamstring. After 30 seconds in this position, point your toes towards you and hold for another 30 seconds. Release and change to the other leg.

Precautions: Do not bounce during the movement or rush through these movements. Execute them slowly and accurately.

Purpose: To enhance the flexibility of the quadriceps muscles.

Execution: Assume a lunge position, with your back knee on the floor. Ensure that your front knee is at ninety degrees of flexion and that the knee is not over the toe. Slowly push your hips forward whilst keeping your back erect. You should feel this pulling from your hip to your knee on the back leg. Hold this for thirty second. Now bend the back knee by grabbing your ankle with your hand until you can feel the quadriceps muscle stretch.

Ensure that your back is still erect in this position. Hold for another thirty second before releasing.

Precautions: Always ensure that the stretch sensation is only that, a stretch sensation. If you experience pain then you are stretching the muscle beyond a distance it is capable of at that present time.

Notes: Increasing hamstring and quadricep flexibility - The more flexible a muscle the greater the muscle’s ability to absorb and react to forces. The following exercises are preferably specific to patello-femoral pain syndrome (PFPS).

Too Much Too Soon: People tend to overdo any activity they decide to take on. So any activity you take on must be approached with cautious progression. Remember that prevention is better than cure.

So if you haven’t yet experienced PFPS, don’t wait for it to happen.

You have the recipe to avoid it.

47 Men’s Style 49

D

The Big

health //

D

Diabetes has become so prevalent you have to wonder whether it’s something that has always been as common, it’s just that now there’s a lot more people who can make money off treating it. This, however, would be an entirely pessimistic view as while there is clearly more awareness of the disease, its impact on a generation that spent a lifetime living large, and indeed their children, is undeniable.

iabetes is now in almost every office, every school room and every town, which should be somewhat comforting to anyone with the disease because it’s not something the big drug companies or health organizations can ignore.

sufferers tend to get sick and seek help because the symptoms can range from being very thirsty and needing to pass urine all the time. Being tired is also another one, diabetes brings on inexplicable bouts of tiredness and also blurred vision.

The situation in the Gulf is even direr than it is in most other areas on the planet. Partly due to lifestyle that includes excessive amounts of stress and fatty foods, and also because of a muted genetic predisposition, diabetes is a huge deal in this region.

“I’ve had patients who thought their vision was going and they have their spectacles changed three or four times over a four month period. Then they find out they have diabetes, their eyes get better and then they have to go and get them changed again because the sugar deficiency in diabetes can effect the lens in your eyes.”

Perhaps the most startling aspect of diabetes is the many ways it can be detected. It can take a year of poor health before a sufferer realises the root cause of their illness. Symptoms that include an unquenchable thirst, blurred vision and violent cravings can force sufferers to conclude they could be “allergic” to sugary foods as tame as carrots, or slipping into bouts of alcoholism, or even going prematurely blind.

Doctor Maha Barakat, Consultant Endocrinologist, at the Imperial College London Diabetes centre in Abu Dhabi, said things get really “scary” when patients show no symptoms.

“There is a huge spectrum of symptoms, but what’s really scary is when people that have zero symptoms,” Doctor Barakat told us in an earlier interview.

“These people are as fit as ever and then one day they just go down. “Most 48 54 Men’s Style

Thirst is another big symptom of diabetes, which is why sufferers must be very wary of sports drinks and other drinks, like beer, that contain large amounts of sugar and other chemicals.

“Do you remember, for instance, when Lucozade came out with the advert featuring Daley Thompson? (British decathlete gold medallist) In the ads he said Lucozade was healthy because it helped quench your thirst,” said Dr Barakat.

“And that was fine as a thirst quencher for athletes and others who needed the sugar after exercise, but for someone feeling thirsty for another reason (like diabetes) if they drank a sugary drink, they could become very sick. And I’ve seen people with glucose levels as high as 900 because they’ve levels have spiked

WHAT IS DIABETES? Diabetes is a chronic disease that occurs when the pancreas does not produce enough insulin, or alternatively, when the body cannot effectively use the insulin it produces.

Insulin is a hormone that regulates blood sugar. Hyperglycaemia, or raised blood sugar, is a common effect of uncontrolled diabetes and over time leads to serious damage to many of the body’s systems, especially the nerves and blood vessels.

Type 1 diabetes (previously known as insulin-dependent or childhoodonset) is characterized by a lack of insulin production. Without daily administration of insulin, Type 1 diabetes is rapidly fatal. Symptoms include excessive excretion of urine (polyuria), thirst (polydipsia), constant hunger, weight loss, vision changes and fatigue. These symptoms may occur suddenly.

Type 2 diabetes (formerly called noninsulin-dependent or adult-onset) results from the body’s ineffective use of insulin. Type 2 diabetes comprises 90 percent of people with diabetes around the world, and is largely the result of excess body weight and physical inactivity.

Symptoms may be similar to those of Type 1 diabetes, but are often less marked. As a result, the disease may be diagnosed several years after onset, once complications have already arisen.

Until recently, this type of diabetes was seen only in adults but it is now also occurring in obese children. Gestational diabetes is hyperglycaemia which is first recognized during pregnancy.

Symptoms of gestational diabetes are similar to Type 2 diabetes. Gestational diabetes is most often diagnosed through prenatal screening, rather than reported symptoms. Impaired Glucose Tolerance (IGT) and Impaired Fasting Glycaemia (IFG) are intermediate conditions in the transition between normality and diabetes. People with IGT or IFG are at high risk of progressing to Type 2 diabetes, although this is not inevitable.

FACTS:

Diabetes can be a real chore but many diabetics have attained great success.

They include actors Halle Berry, George C Scott, James Cagney, Mary Tyler Moore and Mae West and writers Ernest Hemingway, HG Wells and Mario Puzo.

Elvis Presley was a diabetic as was Johnny Cash. So are rockers Mick Fleetwood, Andrew Lloyd Webber and Meatloaf.

The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that more than 180 million people worldwide have diabetes. This number is likely to more than double by 2030.

In 2005, an estimated 1.1 million people died from diabetes.1 Almost 80 per cent of diabetes deaths occur in low and middle-income countries.

Almost half of diabetes deaths occur in people under the age of 70 years; 55 per cent of diabetes deaths are in women.WHO projects that diabetes deaths will increase by more than 50 per cent in the next 10 years without urgent action. Most notably, diabetes deaths are projected to increase by over 80 per cent in upper-middle income

WHAT ARE COMMON CONSEQUENCES OF DIABETES? Over time, diabetes can damage the heart, blood vessels, eyes, kidneys, and nerves.

Diabetic retinopathy is an important cause of blindness, and occurs as a result of longterm accumulated damage to the small blood vessels in the retina. After 15 years of diabetes, approximately 2 per centof people become blind, and about 10 per cent develop severe visual impairment.

Diabetic neuropathy is damage to the nerves as a result of diabetes, and affects up to 50 per cent of people with diabetes.

Although many different problems can occur as a result of diabetic neuropathy, common symptoms are tingling, pain, numbness, or weakness in the feet and hands.

Combined with reduced blood flow, neuropathy in the feet increases the chance of foot ulcers and eventual limb amputation. Diabetes is also among the leading causes of kidney failure.

Some famous diabetics on the political scene have been Yuri Andropov, Anwar Sadat and Mikhail Gorbachev.

Halle Berry - looking good with diabetes.

The most famous sportsman with diabetes was legendary “Sugar” Ray Robinson, hence the nickname. Five-time Olympic gold medallist Sir Steve Redgrave is a diabetic as are Wasim Akram, the cricketer and tennis player Bille Jean King.

risk factors that damage to blood vessels.

DIABETES 20/20 IN THE GUlF

Tobacco cessation is also important to avoid complications.

Interventions that are both cost saving and feasible in developing countries include:

What are the statistics on how many people in UAE have diabetes/what percentage of people in UAE have diabetes?

In the UAE it is estimated that one out of five people aged 20 to 79 lives with this disease, while a similar percent of population is at risk of developing it. This year, the UAE ranked second highest worldwide for diabetes prevalence, followed by Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, and Kuwait.

• Moderate blood glucose control. People with Type 1 diabetes require insulin; people with Type 2 diabetes can be treated with oral medication, but may also require insulin; • Blood pressure control; • Foot care.

Other cost saving interventions include: • Screening for retinopathy (which causes blindness); • Blood lipid control (to regulate cholesterol levels); • Screening for early signs of diabetes related kidney disease.

Which group of people are most affected age/gender etc?

Most diabetes sufferers are between the ages of 40 to 59 years, with research showing a worrying rise among younger age groups.

As for gender distribution, the estimates for both 2003 and 2025 showed a female predominance in the number of persons with diabetes. The female numbers were about 10 per cent higher than for males.

HOW TO MITIGATE OR AVOID IT To help prevent type 2 diabetes and its complications, people should: - Achieve and maintain healthy body weight.

- Be physically active - at least 30 minutes of regular, moderate-intensity activity on most days. More activity is required for weight control.

- Early diagnosis can be accomplished through relatively inexpensive blood testing.

- Treatment of diabetes involves lowering blood glucose and the levels of other known 49 Men’s Style 55

See your GP if you think you might be at risk

There was also a female predominance in the number of persons with Impaired Glucose Tolerance (IGT) in the estimates for both 2003 and 2025. The female numbers were about 20 per cent higher than for males.

Polycystic ovary syndrome affects up to 5-10 per cent of females in their reproductive years and is thought to predispose their children to glucose intolerance, with studies showing up to 30-40 per cent being affected by IGT and up to 7-10 per cent with type 2 diabetes. This may explain why there are more females with type 2 diabetes amongst adolescents. (IDF 2007)

Exercise for half and hour a few times a week

How many people are believed to have diabetes but are undiagnosed and is under-diagnosis an issue?

In a UAE Ministry of Health study conducted in 2000, approximately half of the people with diabetes in the UAE were unaware that they suffer from diabetes.

When eaten in excess, any type of food could contribute to the problems of diabetes and obesity. Unhealthy fast food is no exception of course, but we have to remember to distinguish between healthy and unhealthy fast food. There are now healthy fast food outlets that provide an alternative to what we conventionally know as fast food.

Avoid sugary, unhealthy and processed foods

In my opinion, increased education on what the ingredients of unhealthy fast food can do to one’s body would be helpful and regulation of unhealthy fast food sales and marketing could also be key. Tackle the marketing of unhealthy fast food whilst simultaneously educating people about the risks of consuming such foods and I think we would see significant positive changes.

If banning smoking in restaurants, bars, can help the health-related problems with smoking, should levels of trans-fats and calorie content in fast food also be regulated in places like the UAE? Regulation of this sort would definitely and without a doubt help, not just in the UAE but globally.

Is diabetes on the rise in UAE - and why?

Yes, diabetes is on the rise in the UAE. There seems to be a genetic predisposition to the disease among UAE Nationals and statistics show that they have a higher prevalence than other Nationalities within the UAE. However tendencies towards lifestyle, weight gain, an imbalanced diet and/or a lack of exercise seem to be major contributors.

Research is ongoing with the overriding aim to help explain why diabetes occurs at such high levels in the country. This will also help instigate preventative measures.

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What are some of the serious effects of diabetes you are seeing in UAE? Diabetes brings with it several serious complications related to the heart, eyes, blood vessels, kidneys, feet and nerves.

The overall risk of premature death among people with diabetes is at least double the risk of their peers without diabetes.

According to statistics, mortality linked to diabetes, mellitus constitutes 75 per cent percent of the deaths among UAE nationals and 31 per cent among non-nationals.

How much do fast food outlets contribute to the obesity problem?

Are people in the UAE essentially just lazy?

No, I do not think it would be appropriate to generalise. People in the UAE work very hard, but today’s culture at work and in general tends to keep people tied down, to their desks or in traffic jams. This could pose a challenge for many people but, they should make time for exercise in spite of it. Studies have proven that simple exercise such as walking for half and hour, five days a week can decrease your risk of type 2 diabetes.

The key to prevention of type 2 diabetes, even in those with predisposing genes is to maintain a normal body weight and to exercise regularly. The International Diabetes Federation (IDF) has stated that,

Eat a well balanced diet of fruit, vegetables, lean meat and dairy

up to 80 per cent of type 2 diabetes is preventable by adopting a healthy diet and increasing physical activity.

The UAE has the second-worst record for diabetes in the world, but Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Bahrain and Kuwait are also among the top five. What is it about the Gulf Region that is causing such a problem?

Estimated prevalence of diabetes according to 2007 world statistics shows the island of Nauru leading with 30.7 percent prevalence. UAE, number two at 19.5 per cent, Saudi Arabia follows with 16.7 percent prevalence. Bahrain stands fourth highest with 15.2 percent and Kuwait with 14.4 percent diabetes prevalence.

Spreading healthy eating messages are the campaign’s priorities because these methods are the most effective ways to prevent, treat and

There seems to be a genetic predisposition

Get active - play a sport

or manage the disease. ICLDC’s aim is to help the population move towards healthier lifestyles and for those who have already been diagnosed with diabetes to adopt the latest evidence-based treatments. Through ‘DIABETES.KNOWLEDGE.ACTION’ we are reaching out to people across the UAE through several activities. We have rolled out I WONDER…, a public screening programme in which we screen people at high risk for diabetes.

A kit for testing glucose levels

to the disease in the Gulf region, but this risk may be mitigated if one leads a healthy lifestyle. An increased prevalence of diabetes among expatriates in the region as opposed to in their countries of origin indicate that genes are not the only factor in play and that environment (lack of exercise with high fat, high sugar diet) plays a major role as well.

Is ICLDC spreading messages about fast food causing other health problems like obesity, cardio vascular diseases etc in the awareness programmes?

I EAT RIGHT, an educational initiative aimed at getting children, mothers and carers to take a look at, and possibly change, what’s the children’s lunch boxes. We’re planning I PLAY SPORTS, a fun Corporate World vs. the Field Professionals football tournament with the UAE National team hopefully taking on members of the UAE’s commercial sector. I WALK to bring the community together in a walkathon to raise awareness and hopefully raise money that can be ploughed back into diabetes research public health initiatives.

We’re also working with UAE celebrity Chefs for I COOK HEALTHILY where we will be producing a recipe book and DVD to show people how they can make their own meals healthy.

What are the main causes of the incidence of diabetes in UAE i.e. the triggers/ factors contributing to diabetes?

Diabetes is a condition that is characterised by an above normal level of glucose (sugar) in the blood. This is because the pancreas does not make enough insulin or insulin becomes ineffective. Insulin, a hormone generated in the pancreas, normally controls blood sugar levels and allows the glucose to enter the cells in the body to provide energy. In people with diabetes, high levels of glucose remain in the bloodstream causing Hyperglycaemia (high blood sugar).

Those at increased risk include individuals who have a history of diabetes in their family, people over 40, those who are overweight or obese and inactive individuals.

These are just a few of the plans, you can catch up with on. Our aim is to inform people of the ways to maintain a healthy life, the risks of an unhealthy life, the complications that diabetes brings with it while making available the latest evidencebased treatments. (all responses in this Q&A were by Doctor Barakat) 51 Men’s Style 57

do you have a problem?

L

ife is full of problems. Some are trivial, like working out which chocolate in the box to eat first.

Others can be as forbidding as trying to walk up Mount Everest with a Yeti strapped to your back.

Nevertheless, not a day goes by without some niggle popping up to bump up our blood pressure and bring us just that bit closer to meeting our maker. There’s no sure way of escaping the problem trap, although Josef Stalin claimed to have the solution.

Lindsay at Large

By Alexander Lindsay with ALEx LINDSAy your columnist who has been there & done it

“Death solves all problems – no man, no problem,” he was heard to remark. But he would say that, wouldn’t he? It’s easy when you have absolute power, unlimited access to death squads and the odd gulag or two.

58 Men’s Style

However, we lesser mortals have to be more circumspect about the matter. Bumping off anyone who upsets your day is frowned upon in polite society nowadays. Sometimes even the simplest of problems takes on grandiose proportions. I went into a café the other day to be greeted by a sign reading: Tea and coffee not available owing to technical reasons.

Surely a sign saying simply, “Sorry, no tea or coffee today” would have done the job, instead of leaving us all worrying about what the mysterious technical reasons could be.

Technical reasons is for when your plane doesn’t take off or arrive, not for when the hot chocolate machine blows a fuse. It’s the sort of vague phraseology so beloved of airlines, who will euphemistically refer to a major crash as “unplanned contact with the ground.” “Technical reasons” is also for when you’ve got something to hide, and you hope the customer will be too bamboozled or busy enough not to demand a more specific reason.

Wouldn’t it be great if you had the gift to Technical problems?

Possible hair problems

read their minds, like the cop in the TV drama series Heroes?

So they’re saying: “We regret the delay which is due to technical reasons…” But in reality you’re hearing them think: That big bit fell off the engine again. It’s always happening. Frankly, you wouldn’t get me up in that for a pension and a big clock…

Another airline favourite is the package holiday flight, when you are hot, sticky and tired, hanging around for hours in some ill-equipped island airport with insufficient seating and an asthmatic AC system, and people sleeping on the floor, only to be told over the PA: “We regret the delay, which was due to the late arrival of the incoming aircraft.”

Oh, that’s all right then, it was the late arrival of their incoming aircraft. Everybody relax, everything’s hunky-dory. The late arrival of the incoming aircraft, well, you can’t blame them for that, can you? But does anybody ever pause to ask: “Why is the incoming aircraft always

late?” Not that it matters. Even if you did ask, you could be sure of the answer in advance: “Technical reasons, Sir, technical reasons…”

If there is anything worse than a problem, then it has to be no problem at all. “No problem,” that catch phrase so beloved of waiters and sales assistants the world over, has taken over from the dreaded “have a nice day” as the most annoying of the meaningless rejoinders to every simple transaction.

So I’m in the fishing tackle shop making a simple request to the sales assistant…

I’d like some fishing tackle, please.

No problem, Sir. Why should there be?

Why should there be what, Sir? A problem.

There isn’t a problem, Sir. Then why bring it up?

I didn’t, Sir Yes you did, you said “no problem” Exactly, Sir, there isn’t a problem.

Yes, but by introducing the subject you open up the possibility that there might have been a problem.

There is no problem, Sir. What are you trying to hide?

I’m hiding nothing, Sir, I simply meant that there would be no problem in selling you fishing tackle.

This is a fishing tackle shop isn’t it?

Yes, Sir. Then what problem could I possibly face in buying fishing tackle here?

None, Sir, that’s what I was trying to tell you – there’s no problem.

I think this is where we came in, isn’t it?

If, by some weird trick of fate, there did turn out to be a problem in such simple transactions, what could it conceivably be?

So you’re in the donut shop ordering donuts.

Now what could possibly go wrong...?

Two donuts, please.

“Sorry, sir, there’s a problem. We were just dishing out the donuts when the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse came riding through the kitchen, hooked all the donuts on their lances and carried them off to Armageddon. They were nice Bavarian cream ones, too. But that’s life in the donut trade for you. It’s a funny old business.

Or you’re in a café and you ask…

a teddy bear while a Beatles sound-alike band sings “All you need is Luvs.” One fan observed that if John Lennon had been alive today he would have been against disposable nappies anyway as an environmental issue.

One latte, one cappuccino, please.

“Sorry, folks, big problems. Old Pedro forgot his glasses when he went up the mountain to pick his coffee beans. A thick mist set in – you know how quickly the fog can come down in the Peruvian Andes – so he was totally blind. Anyway, he staggered into a crevasse, breaking both his legs and spilling his basket of beans. He’s confined to bed for six weeks, and his wife, Juanita, can’t work either because she’s pregnant again. Anyway…we’ve got no coffee beans.”

And Angela Natividad, co-editor of adrants. com, which monitors ad campaigns, said: “For people who feel the political connection with Vietnam, it comes off as kind of a callous action. The Beatles draw religious feelings.”

Some trivial problems can be blown out of all proportion when passion is involved. Take that vast army of worldwide Beatles fans, for instance. They are raising the roof with howls of indignation because a well-loved Beatles song has been used in an American TV commercial. Not just any TV commercial – this one turns out of be an ad for diapers.

Not just any Beatles song either – this one is All You Need Is Love, which was adopted as a peace anthem during the Vietnam war. A dirty trick if ever there was one, bemoan the Beatles fans. These nappy ads have resulted in a rash of complaints from the four corners of the earth.

The makers of the nappies, called Luvs, couldn’t resist the play on words for their ad.

They bought the rights to the song from Sony/ATV Music Publishing which now owns the Beatles catalogue. Neither Sir Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr, nor the widows of John Lennon and George Harrison have any say in how the songs are used nowadays.

The ad features a baby wearing an “ultimate leak protection” disposable diaper jumping on

Andy Bonnell, a fan from the Beatles home city of Liverpool fumed: “I just cannot see a Beatles song being used for trivial things.”

A storm in a teacup? A big stink over nothing? Problems, it seems are all relative to where you are standing.

Anyway, y’all try to have a nice problem-free day now, y’hear.

All you need is luvs...

Singing the peace anthem

Liverpool fans... nappy conscious Beatles fans

53 Men’s Style 59

Tembe’s Tuskers In remote Tongaland, Tembe Elephant Park has gained the distinction of having some of the biggest tuskers in Southern Africa TEXT AND PICTURES ANITA DE VILLIERS

A

frica’s allure lies in her feral nature. For centuries her wild animals captured man’s imagination and fervour, a passion that created some riveting stories and impressive images. One species stands out, Loxodonta africana, the world’s largest living terrestrial animal.

“Africa’s allure lies in her feral nature.”

Their crowning glory, the African elephant’s tusks brought this species to its knees during the era of the ‘Great White Hunter’ and ivory poaching in the first half of the 20th century. Peter Beard’s The End of the Game tells of the impact trophy hunting had on Africa’s elephant population. In 1975 the African elephant was included in Appendix II of CITES 54 70 Men’s Style

(Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species), which meant that only authorised ivory trade was allowed.

Then in 1986 elephants were classified as an endangered species on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red List of Threatened Species.

In the ensuing period, the plight of Africa’s elephants gripped the world’s imagination and these mammoths became the darlings of animal lovers. But it was also the magnificence of the great tuskers that proved to be a very strong card in the hand of conservationists who had the revival of the species at heart.

In the Kruger National Park a number of big tuskers, all of them sporting ivories of more than 50kg each, had been attracting the attention of conservationists and the public. ‘The Magnificent Seven’, so named by Dr U. de V. Pienaar, chief warden at the time, received iconic status when the park launched a promotion that included commissioned paintings by wildlife artist Paul Bosman

and illustrated articles by Dr Anthony Hall-Martin, the park’s senior research officer.

But the Seven were entering the twilight of their lives, and between the years 1981 and 1985, they all died: Mafunyane, Ndlulamithi, Shawu, Dzombo, João, Kambaku and Shingwedzi. Their tusks and skulls (except for João’s) are exhibited in Letaba Camp’s Elephant Hall. Mandleve, who died of old age in 1993, holds the record for the heaviest tusks ever recorded in Kruger – 142,4kg of ivory. But there were some up-and-coming bulls, including the spectacular Duke, claimed to be the largest tusker in KNP and possibly the world – although one tusk had been broken.

In 1983 the Natal Parks Board and the

Tembe Tribal Authority established a game reserve in Tongaland, the most north-eastern corner of KwaZulu-Natal, with the specific aim of protecting Zululand’s last remaining indigenous herd of elephants. Mercilessly poached during the Mozambican civil war, these traumatised elephants found a sanctuary in the 300km² zone that was fenced off from Mozambique. It was eight years before the park was opened to the public – a period during which some of the emotional scars that had caused these animals to be volatile and dangerous were healed. A dedicated team, lead by park manager Nic de Goede and regional ecologist Wayne Matthews, did ground-breaking work and research

that included contraceptive darting of female elephants in order to contain the numbers in accordance with the carrying capacity of the park.

Little did I know that day in 1994, when I first found my way along Tembe Elephant Park’s sandy tracts, that I would eventually share in a story that echoes that of Kruger’s Seven. Having conducted wildlife photography safaris to Tembe for the past six years, I got to know the park’s great elephants and kind people well. So when Ernest Robbertse, co-owner of Tembe Safari Lodge, phoned to say that Kruger’s Duke had broken the second of his tusks, it transpired that Tembe’s tuskers were now the big boys. “Contact Johan Marais, he will be able to confirm it”, said Ernest. And so he did.

Men’s Style 55 71

of their faces, as well as a low rumbling sound they sometimes make.

Veterinary surgeon, photographer and co-author of The Great Tuskers of Africa, Johan heard about Tembe’s tuskers from Dave Cooper, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s vet, during a game-capture exercise in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve.

He was incredulous at first, but proof came in the form of Dave’s photographs of Tembe’s great tuskers – Isilo, Induna and Mkadebona.

To celebrate Tembe’s new status, Ernest commissioned a painting of Isilo by artist Dave Wheildon Oosthuizen. Working from one of Johan’s photographs, Dave created two canvasses, copies of which are on sale to raise funds for conservation in Tembe.

“You have to come to the unveiling of Isilo’s paintings – the iNkosi, Johan and Dave will also be there”, was the invitation from Ernest. And so, on 29 June 2010 a small group of elephant lovers gathered in Tembe to celebrate a new era for this special place, named after the royal family of Tongaland.

56 72 Men’s Style

Before the iNkosi’s arrival, Ernest briefed us on the protocol of greeting the king of the Tonga people. But the warm winter sun soon thawed the ceremony’s official air and the talk was all elephants.

Research records were pulled out and we were introduced to Tembe’s omkhulu (old men) and bafana (young men).

Elephant monitor and researcher Leonard Muller explained that elephants are mainly identified by the shape and size of the tusks and the markings on the ears.

Game guides Patrick Mthembhu and Vusi Tembe added that over the years they have come to know the personalities of the elephants and that however docile a bull may be, during musth they become unpredictable and aggressive. Bulls in musth can be identified by the secretion from the temporal glands at the side

According to Johan, there are only about 30 great tuskers in Africa at this stage, and at least three of them are in Tembe. An elephant carrying ivory of 45kg (100 pounds) or more – that is the weight of one tusk – has traditionally been classified as a great tusker. The bulls only reach these weights after the age of 45 to 50 years. He estimates Isilo’s tusks to weigh between 50 and 55 kilograms each and ascribes the fact that the Tembe elephants have on average bigger tusks than their Kruger brothers to genetics, feeding and the climate.

Both male and female elephants grow tusks and they are used for feeding: stripping bark, ripping vegetation and digging holes for roots or water. An elephant usually favours one tusk – similar to left- or righthandedness in humans – called the ‘master’, which is shorter than the other ‘servant’ tusk. In clashes, the tusks are deadly weapons. As was the case with Duke, tusks break. It is believed that the elephants that

become big tuskers are the more gentle bulls, as tusks usually break during fierce fighting.

There are but a few areas in Africa that are ideally suited as habitats for growing big tusks. For Johan and his family, Tembe Elephant Park is now in the same league as other ‘big tusker destinations’ like Tsavu and Amboseli in Kenya, and the Kruger.

When the intimate ceremony drew to a close, the webcam monitor in the lodge’s bar showed that a number of elephants had gathered at the Mahlasela hide. In an instant camera bags were packed into the 4x4’s and the thrill of a possible sighting of Isilo or Induna or Mkadibona swept us toward the hide on an ellie high.

What to name them? Maybe the Triumphant Three.

Tembe Elephant Park 031 267 0144, info@tembe.co.za, www.tembe.co.za Johan Marais www.johanmarais.com

Dave Wheildon Oosthuizen 084 550 7219, www.weildon.co.za Tembe Photography Field Workshops 082 873 7345, www.anitadevilliers.co.za

Men’s Style 57 73

travel //

By Philip Moore

One of the world’s greatest destinations is on our doorstep

M

ost people in the Gulf make whirlwind tours of Jordan. I’ve been to the country many times, but always in bursts. The visits are far too brief, but I’ve certainly seen enough to direct people on short breaks around the Hashemite Kingdom.

For those who don’t or can’t, here’s some help on how to get the best out of a flying visit.

Start in the capital Amman at night, followed by a half-day tour of the capital in the morning. Then cover the Dead Sea, Wadi Rum, Mt Nebo, Aqaba and, of course, Petra, over the next couple of days.

Jordan is a land made legendary

by British soldier Thomas Edward 58 74 Men’s Style

Lawrence, who, in his memoir, Seven Pillars of Wisdom, described it as “vast, echoing and god-like.” That’ll do.

have uncovered homes and towers believed to have been built during the Stone Age and there are references to the old city in the bible.

T.E. Lawrence, as he was better known, and his involvement in the World War I Arab Revolt, were immortalised in the 1962 epic Lawrence of Arabia, shot in part in the imposing Wadi Rum. You can see the ruins of Lawrence’s house, and visit a Bedouin camp where Lawrence’s likeness is carved into red stone.

Start your journey at the ancient Citadel, towering above the city, where Amman began, at least 5000 years ago. Pause for a moment to study the traces of Amman’s many lives: the regal columns of the Roman Temple of Hercules in silhouette against the sky, the elegant capitals of the Byzantine church, and the endlessly inventive carvings in the Umayyad Palace.

Amman is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The city’s modern buildings blend with the remnants of ancient civilisations. Recent excavations

Take a seat in the Roman Amphitheatre, a deep-sided bowl carved into the hill and still used for cultural events, as is the Odeon,

an intimate small theatre now beautifully restored.

Check out traditional costumes and crafts in Amman’s well-presented museums - marvellous embroidery, and antique jewellery of gold, silver, amber and coral - and get a fascinating glimpse of Bedouin life.

Move on to the works of modern Jordanian artists in one of the galleries - Jordan has a lively arts scene, with new events occurring almost daily.

It’s a pity that a lot of Gulf based expats that are in the region for years rarely sample any form of Middle Eastern culture.

Allow Amman to tempt you with Arabic-style coffee and delicious pastries in a typical downtown coffee house. Join the locals for some backgammon and cards, or just a chat. This is the old-style Arab world and it’s worth every minute.

You can pretty much jump in a car (but I’d suggest a 4-wheel-drive) and head off anywhere in this delightful country. Jordan is an easy country to navigate and scenery is breathtaking.

You can link with the route used

for the Rally of Jordan which has just been granted a leg of the world championship series. The signposting pretty good.

visit in the same hotel as me. He was there for spa treatment and a spot of R&R. The booming voice around the resort, was unmistakable.

Now it’s afternoon. It’s a mere halfhour drive from Amman to the Dead Sea coast. Float in the water (I mean really float – you can’t sink). The Dead Sea coast is below sea level.

The salt is so thick in the water you stay on top of the water without trying. The sensation is amazing - it’s almost as if you can walk on it. The water and mud here is said to have properties that rejuvenate the body and many swear by it.

Little did I know it would be one of the last times anyone would see Yeltson as he tragically died of a heart attack two weeks later.

On this trip Men’s Style stayed at the Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea, Jordans latest and greatest resort.

It was awarded Resort of the Year in the annual Grumpy Gourmet (magazine) Awards.

Duncan O’Rourke, general manager, Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea says there’s a particularly heavy influx of visitors from the GCC states and Europe.

“Its proximity to one of the most fascinating natural wonders of the world, the Dead Sea, which is known for its rejuvenating properties, has drawn the fancy of tourists. All 114 rooms and suites throughout the resort are Ishtar-

Boris Yeltsen was staying during my most recent

Men’s Style 59 75

style Villas inspired by the glory days of Babylon, and offer spectacular views of the Dead Sea.” Bangkok-based MSpa International, a leading global operator of multibrand resort and city hotel spas, operates an Anantara Spa at the Kempinski.

If you want to do the spa scene this is the place. You can savour the holistic treatments and programmes drawing on the therapeutic waters and mineral-rich mud of the area. It’s a spin going to the beach and seeing everyone caked in mud, but that’s how it works there.

Up and at ‘em next day for some mountain driving up to historic Mt Nebo. Mt Nebo is one of the most revered holy sites in Jordan due to its association with the last days of Moses and being located near the Roman Byzantine town of Madaba where Moses is buried. It’s time for more serious driving either late afternoon or the next day because you should start heading to Petra. The best yardstick is that Petra is about three hours from Amman or the Dead Sea. Do Wadi Rum same day.

Wadi Rum is Lawrence of Arabia heartland, and it’s well worth a visit.

If you fancy a bit of beach life, pull up a deck chair at Aqaba which is at the northern tip of the Red Sea. There are many hotel options here to stay. You can doss at Petra overnight, or head on to Aqaba or return to Amman or the Dead Sea to kip.

But really, Petra is the be-all and endall of your trip.

Although much has been written about Petra, nothing really prepares you for this amazing place. It has to

60 Men’s Style 76

be seen to be believed. It’s one of the most spectacular places ever wrought by nature or man. Often described as the eighth wonder of the ancient world, it is without doubt Jordan’s most valuable treasure and greatest tourist attraction. It is a vast, unique city, carved into the sheer rock face by the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled there more than 2000 years ago, turning it into an important junction for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.

Entrance to the city is through the Siq, a narrow gorge, over a kilometre in length, which is flanked on either side by soaring, 80 metres high cliffs.

I rode down through the Siq on a horse and that’s a huge buzz.

The colours and formations of the rocks are dazzling. As you reach the end of the Siq you will catch your first glimpse of Al-Khazneh (Treasury).

The Treasury is the classic postcard shot you may have seen. This is an awe-inspiring experience.

Jordan is a land made legendary by British soldier Thomas Edward Lawrence, who, in his memoir, Seven Pillars of Wisdom, described it as “vast, echoing and god-like.”

A massive façade, 30m wide and 43m high, carved out of the sheer, dusky pink, rock-face and dwarfing everything around it. It was carved in the early 1st century as the tomb of an important Nabataean king and represents the engineering genius of these ancient people.

Lots of visitors to Petra complain about the feral hawkers selling cold drinks and postcards, reckoning “it spoils the place.”

Maybe it does, but this is a tradition that dates back even before the fax.

Petra made its fortune from being an international trading crossroads prior to the birth of Christ. The commercialism might be a bit in your face – well, it is – but it’s pretty tame compared to its Nabataean heyday.

Petra-by-night is apparently a full-on gig, but I haven’t done it. It’s probably a bit like the sound-and-light at the

Pyramids – over-the-top, but worth doing. Try not to go to Petra in the peak summer months. Certainly, there’s little to beat a day in the sun at Petra, “the rose red city as old as time.”

As far as experiences go there are few more amazing offered in the Middle East. Walking up to the Treasury at Petra is spiritual to some but to me it’s full-tilt pagan. Indeed, to the right of the entrance are troughs where apparently the blood of sacrifice flowed.

Once outside Amman you’ll encounter bedouins galore. Rural Jordan is home to many of these nomads usually tending goats, sheep or camels.

They’re OK about pictures as a rule but do make a point of asking and maybe carry some small change for the kids.

And, don’t forget that the Bedouins usually have dogs. I was travelling recently with a photographer who has done numerous assignments in Jordan. As he bounded over a rocky outcrop he was surrounded by half a dozen dogs determined to protect the flock from the interloper.

Moreover, in any Jordanian store the shopkeeper will produce a tray of tiny glass cups of tea or coffee. Whether or not you buy, you’re welcome to sit, sip and chat. You should know this already, but you should accept the drink twice, always with the right hand and decline the third with a slight shake of the little cup.

The Jordanians are among the friendliest people on earth. They’re genuinely glad to have you visit their nation and their welcome is an extension of the Bedouin tradition of unconditional hospitality.

Men’s Style 61 77

travel // london

Stay

another day

London, the birthplace of 007 creator Ian Fleming, is everything a budding Bond could hope for.

Y

our mission starts by checking into the luxurious and stately Dorchester Hotel (Park Lane, 44-20-7629-8888, www. thedorchester.com), which, as a young Naval Officer, Fleming frequently visited for romantic trysts with one of the hotel’s prominent residents, Lady Rothermere (who would later become his wife). Years later, the Dorchester would be immortalized in Fleming’s novel Goldfinger. Onetime Bond actor George Lazenby was discovered by producer Cubby Broccoli in the hotel’s barbershop, and both Roger Moore and Sean Connery have been frequent guests.

Spacious and elegantly furnished suites are accented by personal butler service and spectacular views of Hyde Park.

DRESS TO KILL The Dorchester’s Mayfair location is adjacent to the genteel shopping district of Old Bond Street (www. streetsensation.co.uk), where you can dress the part by dropping in at Brioni (32 Bruton St., 44-207491-7700, www.brioni.it), for a finely tailored suit by the master craftsmen of Italian couture. Brioni has been Bond’s exclusive tailor since Pierce Brosnan took over the role for 1995’s GoldenEye, and continues with new 007 Daniel Craig for Casino Royale.

Starting price for a made-to-order 62 78 Men’s Style

George Lazenby

tuxedo is around $7,000 (Dh25,000).

And for a taste of classic Bond, it’s well worth paying a visit to the shop of world-renowned shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser (71 & 72 Jermyn St., 44-20-7808-3000, www.turnbullandasser.co.uk), established in 1885, the sophisticated favourite of such British elite as Winston Churchill, Prince Charles, Michael Caine and Ian Fleming. Its made-to-measure Sea Island cotton shirt has been a Bond wardrobe staple since Sean Connery was first ushered through these doors for his big-screen makeover in 1962.

DIVERSIONS ARE FOREVER Now that you have the look, it’s time to kick-start the action.

First, a trip just outside the city to Buckinghamshire and the Stoke Poges championship golf course (Park Road, 44-17-53717171, www.stokeparkclub. com), where you can hit the same links on which Bond nearly lost his head — literally — facing down Auric Goldfinger and his bowler hat-wielding henchman Oddjob. The swanky Stoke Park Club ballroom also served as a key location for 1997’s Tomorrow Never Dies.

Next, you can relive Bond’s

perilous boat chase from The World Is Not Enough — minus the bullets and explosions — by taking the same route down the Thames River in a speedboat, all courtesy of London Voyages (44-20-7928-2350, www. londonribvoyages.com).

You’ll end up zipping past such landmarks as the London Eye, the Tower of London, the Millennium Dome, and finally Bond’s HQ: the real location of Britain’s MI-6 (www.fco.gov.uk) at Vauxhall Bridge. You can’t miss the almost theatrically ominous postmodern structure, similar in design to a Mayan temple. You are permitted to photograph the massive nine-storey structure of MI-6 — which possesses a state-of-the-art “force field” that prevents electromagnetic signals from passing in or out of the building — but don’t even think of entering unless you have the proper clearance (key card and retinal scan).

LIVE AND LET DINE After your day of derringdo, satisfy your appetite for exceptional cuisine and rare fine wines at Hush (8 Lancashire Court, Brook Street, 44- 20-7659 1500, www.strictlyhush.com) the intimate Mayfair restaurant owned by Geoffrey Moore (who also happens to be the son of Sir Roger Moore).

Daniel Craig

Then cap off your 007 evening in high style by sauntering into the posh Les Ambassadeurs Club (5 Hamilton Place, 4420-7495-5555, www.lesambassadeurs.com), where you can display your skills at blackjack, poker and baccarat in the French-appointed gaming salons of Le Cercle Casino.

This exclusive establishment is intrinsic to the Bond legacy: Not only is this where Bond producer Harry Saltzman held his meetings with Ian Fleming to secure the film rights to the Bond novels, but James Bond made his iconic cinema introduction at the chemin de fer tables here in 1962’s Dr. No.

63 Men’s Style 79

Fashion Directory Bespoke Tailors for Men in Dubai: Bespoke (DIFC) 04 363 7237 Royal Fashions (Madinat Souq) 04368 6192 Lobo Tailors (Bur Dubai MeenaBazaar) 04 352 3750 Tailors: Deepaks (Satwa) 04 349 4434 Cliff Tailoring (Satwa) 04 349 2774 Ascots & Chapels (Jumeirah Beach Residences)

04 4270124 Adidas 04 295 4151 Aigner 04 324 0893 Aldo 04 295 7885 Alfred Dunhill 04 355 9633 Amani Jeans 04 344 2118 Audemars Piguet\Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons 04 295 3225 Benetton 04 295 2450 Bin Hendi Boutique 04 3240 329 Botega Veneta 04 330 0449 Boutique 1 04 330 4555 Breguet 04 295 3780 Breitling\Kunooz Jewellers 04 324 3530 Brioni 04 228 8110 Bugatti 04 324 4712 Bulgari 04 330 3233 Burberry 04 295 0347 Burberry Fragrance\Areej 04 355 2323 Calvin Klein 04 352 5244 CK Jeans 04 295 0190 Canali 04 351 4335 Carolina Herrera 04 330 4555 Cartier 04 330 0034

64 80 Men’s Style

Cerutti 04 324 8132 Cesare Paciotti 04 324 3227 Chanel 04 324 0464 Chaumet 04 351 6228 Chole 04 330 4555 Chopard & Corum\Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons 04 295 3225 Christian Lacroix 04 351 7133 Corneliani 04 324 4832 Cunique\Debenhams 04 226 6527 Custo Barcelona 04 330 0564 Christian Dior 04 351 5551 Daniel Hetcher 04 324 8133 Diesel 04 341 1395 DKNY 04 351 3788 D’Squared 04 324 2333 Dolce & Gabbana 04 351 5551 Donna Karan 04 351 6794 Emilio Pucci 04 330 0660 Emporio Armani 04 330 0778 - 04 341 0339 Ermenegildo Zegna 04 340 7711 Escada 04 324 5252 Etoile 04 324 0465 Fendi 04 351 1883 Franck Muller\Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons 04 295 3225 Fred\Damas 04 330 0300 Furla Villa Moda Gant 04 324 4233 Gas 04 324 4845 Gerry Weber 04 324 3899 Gianfranco\Ferre Jeans 04 346 1933

Gucci (Collection) 04 221 54444 Guess 04 355 3324 Giorgio Armani 04 330 0447 Harvey Nichols 04 341 4747 Harry Winston\Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons 04 295 3225 Hermes 04 351 1190 - 04 351 5190 Hugo Boss 04 227 7177 ID Design 04 266 6751 Just Cavalli 04 351 1737 Kenneth Cole 04 355 5872 - 04 355 5852 Kenzo 04 351 9449 Lacoste 04 351 2855 Levi’s Store 04 351 6728 Loewe 04 355 8860 Loro Piana 04 330 0546 Louis Vuitton 04 359 2535 Marlboro Classics 04 351 3288 Marc Jacobs 04 351 5551 Massimo Dutti 04 351 3352 Max Moda 04 324 0427 Michael Kors\Saks Fifth Avenue 04 351 5551 Missoni\Villa Moda 04 330 4555 Mont Blanc 04 324 8825 Murphy & NYE 04 324 5428 Omega 04 295 3623 Oscar de la Renta 04 351 5551 Pal Zileri 04 269 7774 Patek Phillip\Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons 04 295 3225 Paul & Shark 04 355 1437 Paul Smith 04 359 0099

Pierre Pierre Cardin Cardin 04 04 324 324 4876 4876 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 04 04 352 352 5311 5311 Pomellato Pomellato 04 04 330 330 3375 3375 Prada Prada (Accessories)\Saks (Accessories)\Saks Fifth Fifth Avenue Avenue 04 351 1783 04 351 1783 Prada Prada (Collection)\Boutique (Collection)\Boutique 1 1 04 330 04 330 4555 4555 Puma Puma 04 04 294 294 4253 4253 Rado Rado 04 04 292 292 2526 2526 Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 04 04 341 341 4200 4200 Rami Rami Al Al Ali Ali Haute Haute Couture Couture 04 228 2227 04 228 2227 Rochas\Debenhams Rochas\Debenhams 04 04 226 226 6527 6527 Roberto Roberto Cavalli\Rodeo Cavalli\Rodeo Drive Drive 04 355 5204 04 355 5204 Rolex\Ahmed Rolex\Ahmed Seddiqi Seddiqi & & Sons Sons 04 295 3225 04 295 3225 Roberto Roberto Cavalli Cavalli 04 04 222 222 5251 5251 Rodeo Rodeo Drive Drive 04 04 330 330 3500 3500 Salvatore Salvatore Ferragamo Ferragamo 04 04 351 351 2323 2323 Stella Stella Mcartney Mcartney 04 04 330 330 4555 4555 Swarovski Swarovski 04 04 324 324 8068 8068 Swatch\Rivoli Swatch\Rivoli 04 04 294 294 1111 1111 Saks Saks Fifth Fifth Avenue Avenue 04 04 351 351 5551 5551 Ted Ted Lapidus Lapidus 04 04 324 324 4881 4881 The The One One 04 04 345 345 6687 6687 Tiffany Tiffany & & Co Co 04 324 4959 04 324 4959 Tommy Tommy Hilfiger\ Hilfiger\ MOE MOE 04 341 0260 04 341 0260 Top Top Shop Shop 04 04 295 295 1804 1804 Trussardi Trussardi Jeans Jeans 04 04 324 324 2898 2898 Valentino Valentino 04 04 359 359 6450 6450 Vera Vera Wang Wang 04 04 351 351 5551 5551 Versace\Paris Versace\Paris Gallery Gallery 04 04 324 324 7333 7333 Yves Yves Saint Saint Laurent Laurent 04 330 04 330 0445 0445 -- 04 04 341 341 0113 0113 Zilli Zilli 04 04 324 324 4223 4223

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By Henry Long

FINAL SAY

Here’s a tip - Be ready L

egend has it tipping was formally recognized as a form of paying for business when people started weighing precious metals such as gold, silver and bronze. The vendors would often “tip” the scales in favour of the customer. Reality is, however, tipping most likely started when men and women first found other people they didn’t want to kill or eat.One prehistoric conversation might have went:

into a communal jar that a rather obese managerial-type came and collected five minutes later.

So, our fastidiously fast car cleaner gained nothing personally for his efforts, which is why it didn’t surprise me to see him sitting around doing next to nothing, like the other cleaners, the next time I stopped at that station.It’s a similar story in a lot of restaurants, when tipping a waiter in this part of the world, rarely are you tipping the waiter – you’re tipping the owner of the restaurant or the hotel the restaurant’s in. The drama, it seems, when tipping is that – there are no hard and fast international rules.

In Canada and the U.S., for instance, you don’t tip and it’s very likely the person you forgot about won’t be left with much for groceries.

$

Trader Joe: “I’ll give you one sheep, a young girl and this dead teradactyl, for two camels and that old cook.” Farmer Habib: “Sounds good, but I’ll need another sheep.”Trader Joe: “Fine then, have a sheep and a good carving knife – just look after me next time because I’m pretty keen on acquiring that Wallylankasawasss I know you’re raising.”

Etiquette aside, a tip has always been a sign of good will to someone whose efforts you rate. But things seem to be getting a lot more complicated, especially in the Gulf.

At petrol station car washes, for instance, I recently watched a young man wash a car so well he deserved an Academy Award for effort. Up, down, around and in - this dude was going like a lizard drinking – he was on fire – and I’m convinced the car he attacked couldn’t have looked better. There were other young men working on this car, but they were largely useless compared to this master of dirt disasters. The owner of the car noticed it too and tipped him – only to watch that tip go 66 82 Men’s Style

This follows because at many North American work places, especially in restaurants, the serving staff agree to “tip out” the other support staff (cooks and bartenders) at the end of their shift.

Servers pay a fixed percentage of their sales to the other staff and they have to pay it regardless of what tips are left behind. If a patron, therefore, doesn’t tip - servers can end up having to pay for the right to have served you, rather than the other way around. In other countries, particularly those in secondto-third conditions, like Egypt, tipping can get complicated – especially around public bathrooms. Most public bathrooms in Egypt, for instance, are staffed, and, especially at tourist sites, vendors can hand out toilet paper

based on the tip they receive. In other highly populated countries, like India or China, where there can be 10-15 people doing a job one person does in a place like France, it’s often difficult to calculate anything, much less who you should be tipping.

Tax, or the lack thereof, generally complicates everything. In many countries the only tax patrons of restaurants, taxis and public bathrooms have to worry about is a federal government tax for services.

But a variety of other countries there are also state taxes and regional taxes added to what the feds demand. And wherever there are a lot of tourists – like in ski areas – customers can be asked to pay a fourth and fifth level of “service” tax during peak periods such as public holidays.

Alternatively, in places such as Australia and Brazil, tipping is rarely needed because a “service” fee of 10 to 20 per cent is charged in all instances where it’s required.

And I dare not delve too deep into how “tipping” is done in big business.

From the film and finance industry and property development, the lines are often blurred when one business really appreciates another businesses work. The information industries, advertising in particular, are brilliant at tipping themselves and many argue that’s because, at most levels, it’s difficult to tell the difference between tipping and blatant corruption. Still, I can’t help but wonder about that guy with the wonder squeegee who is now probably as useful as a bar without fridges. Perhaps we should hope he gets promoted to a managerial position and then remembers how to reward initiative and motivate his staff.

Then again, I might also be promoted to President of the Planet tomorrow.

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