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HARGITA

HARGITA THE PERFECT SERVE OF PÁLINKA

ZALÁN SZAKÁCS MODULE 2 MAN AND WELL BEING DEPARTMENT SIETZE KALKWIJK

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HARGITA

THE PERFECT SERVE OF PÁLINKA

CONCEPT

The pálinka can be imagined just like the honest, true man: it does not lie, it always tells the truth.

It speaks of when it was made, the fruit from which it came, the trees from which the fruit blossomed, the volcanic mountains from which they grew. The pálinka is much more than a liquor, it is cultural artefact, connecting the drinker to the mountainous landscape from whence it came.

The pálinka connoisseur can recognise all the nuances of the fruit itself. The tasting experience shares a similar vocabulary to that of wine. It is said that a good pálinka reflects the love and dedication of the people engaged in the creation of it and this in turn, is distinguishable to the taster.

One can sense more than just the ingredients or chemical components, but also taste traces of distillation processes and the environment where the fruit originated.

With pálinka, the smell is more discernible than the taste. Each brand of pálinka has it’s own particular odour that conveys the quality and the unique character of the drink. The smell is best experienced through heating the pálinka to a temperature of 18-24 degrees Celcius, which excites and activates the unique aroma particles in the liquid.

Although the pálinka is best experienced under

SHAPE STUDIES FOR THE TULIP GLASS

these conditions, many people are unaware of this preparation. The majority refrigerates the drink, thus diminishing pálinka’s aromatic essence.

I wish to reinterpret and redefine the ritual of drinking pálinka and to emphasis it’s cultural role while preparing it in a manner that brings it it’s fullest potential.

Looking to Adolf Loos’s writings as inspiration, I played the role of a composer bringing three elements and three craftmanships together to create an unified object that reflects the history and cultural significance behind the pálinka.

The base, a solid brass heater, provides fundamental support like the brass section in an orchestra. The volcanic aragonite stone serves as an intermediary, linking the glass and brass together while also referencing the tectonic landscape from where the fruits came. The bulbous glass is a vessel, it holds the liquid, captures the heated aromas and transfers both to the glass pipette. The glass pipette is the activator, it allows the person to control the flow and amount of the liquid trickling from the vessel to the drinking glass.

The drinking glass is the mediator between the drinker and the object.

It’s bowl-like form is a refined and modern expression of the traditional pálinka tulip glass. It encourages swirling movements, which enhances the moment when the mouth and nose come in contact with the pálinka for the first time.

PÁLINKA

While fruit brandies are produced all over the world - from pisco in Chile and Peru and rakije in the Balkans, to Italy’s grappa and Edelbrand in Germany and Austria - none match pálinka for diversity of flavour and character. There are hundreds of varieties of Hungary’s oldest drink, all of which take on the subtle characteristics of the Carpathian Basin’s unique fruit varieties, climate and soil, as well as local traditions passed down through the generations. >> The word pálinka is of Slovak origin; “Tótpálinka” (literally Slovak spirit) was used in Hungary to refer to alcoholic drinks derived from wheat.

The meaning was later transferred to fruit brandies, while wheat distillates became known as “crematura”.<<

PÁLINKA INTERVIEW WITH CSÍPÁN CSABA TRANSYLVANIAN PÁLINKA DISTILLER

What kind of fragrances can we distinguish between in case of the pálinka?

The pálinka can be imagined just like the honest, true man: it does not lie, it always tells the truth.

There are two kinds of pálinka: good pálinka and ruined pálinka. If we are dealing with pálinka with an unpleasant taste the explanation is that the pre-distillate has not been properly separated or has not been separated at the right moment during the production process.

An unpleasant smell is the result also if we do not separate the so-called intermediate product, the actual pálinka, which initially displays a high alcoholic strength that gradually decreases and there is a moment when it turns into an unpleasant, sour flavor, this is what we call post-distillate.

We are talking about good pálinka if – when tasted in a special tasting glass – we can only taste and smell the flavor, respectively, the fragrance of the fruit the pálinka is made of and nothing else. We are dealing with fine-quality pálinka if we can smell the fragrance of the fruit that has been used for its production.

How would you describe, what would you say the pálinka fragrances are like during the tasting?

In the case of the pálinka there are no such fixed requirements as in case of the whiskey, for instance, where we know it is produced according to the original recipe and its alcoholic strength is adjusted up to the point when the whiskey produced in 2014 acquires the same fragrance and taste as a 50-year-old whiskey. This does not apply to our pálinka. In case of the pálinka, its flavor and fragrance, it all comes down to the used raw material. If we use the proper raw material and prepare – ferment and distill - it in an adequate manner, the end product will truly reflect the flavor of the fruit it has been produced of.

The only rule is, when it comes to tasting the pálinka, that it should reflect the flavor of the fruit it is made of. Nevertheless, there are certain requirements in case of the alcoholic strength.

This is up to the distiller. Today in Hungary the pálinka is prepared to achieve an alcoholic strength of 40 % by volume, whereas here in Transylvania we prefer an alcoholic degree of 50 -52%. There are no such requirements regarding fragrance or flavor, though.

Are the number of sunny hours and days and the useful nutrients absorbed from the soil reflected in the flavor and fragrance of the applied fruits, and, eventually in the taste of the pálinka?

Of course they are reflected. The fruit can take everything along with itself into the pálinka. Similarly, it can bring along bad flavors, too – I am referring to rotten fruits here. A moldy taste can also be passed on to the pálinka. Unpleasant taste, good taste: all kinds of flavors are transferred.

So we are right saying that the fruit absorbs and stores the nutrients from the soil as well as the sunshine which are eventually reflected in the flavor and fragrance of the pálinka, provided that this is distilled in the right manner by master distillers.

Certainly so. Yes. What is the proper procedure when it comes to tasting? What are the phases of pálinka-tasting?

How do they judge the flavor and fragrance of the pálinka, what are the steps of quality evaluation?

First of all the pálinka must be tasted at the proper temperature which is between 15 – 20° Celsius.

There are false beliefs which say that the flavor will be more enjoyable if the pálinka is previously placed in the freezer. This is not true, this only suppresses the alcoholic character to some extent.

However, the thus stored pálinka has the same strength, its flavor will not be enhanced in any way.

Talking about the right procedure, we let the pálinka reach the above-mentioned temperature then we pour it into – serve it in - clean tasting glasses whereby we first examine its fragrance.

We are not supposed to move the glass in case of the pálinka, we only smell it, there is no need

to move the glass to-and-fro, because the tasting glass has been specially designed for this purpose.

This glass helps release the fragrances so that the mere smell gives away the quality of the pálinka.

Both the fine-quality and the low-quality pálinka emanate fragrances. First we smell it and decide on the fragrance and this is followed by the actual tasting.

By tasting we don’t mean guzzling. It is important for the pálinka to spread all over the oral cavity, respectively, over the entire surface of the tongue for we know that the different taste receptors that facilitate the sensation of sweet, bitter and sour tastes are located in different parts of the tongue.

though the whole procedure begins with selecting the raw material which is supposed to be collected when the fruits display a proper sugar content and acidity.

Next step is to bring the fruits to the distillery where they are washed. We must perform all steps in a perfectly clean environment, potential rotten fruits or fruits of improper quality must be eliminated. This is followed by the washing and grinding. Grinding is followed by the fermentation – we can differentiate between quick fermentation and natural, slower fermentation.

Fermentation can be catalyzed with the help of nutrient salts.

We should keep in mind that the pálinka must reach into every corner of the oral cavity so we ought not to swallow it instantly but let it spread pleasantly all over the tongue and buccal cavity, thus we can define the flavor of the tasted pálinka.

The time of distillation is again of huge importance: distillation should begin when the raw material is ready, here I am making reference to the optimal alcohol content.

Smelling is also of great importance. The smell alone can give away the quality of the pálinka, with a reliability of 80 – 90 %.

One should be able to smell the fruit the pálinka has been prepared of; additional smells such as that of the pre-distillate count as production errors. I repeat: first we smell and then we taste the pálinka. The two tests add up to offer a full picture of the pálinka in matters of quality.

Most importantly, the fragrance and flavor of the source fruit should be perceived as clearly as possible. The more dominant the fragrance and flavors of the used fruit, the better the pálinka.

Does the place of origin of the fruits matter here in Transylvania, let’s say for instance the plums come from a sunny and clean hillside or from the mountains? Can this be discerned in case of the pálinka?

Yes, because when preparing the fruit mash (“cefre”) we must pay attention to the acidity and sugar content. It is essential for these to be in harmony – at this point we are able to tell the difference between low- and high quality raw material, depending on the soil quality they originate from.

I presume that beside the fine-quality raw materials the extended expertise, rich experience of the distiller as well as the proper equipment are also very important?

Definitely. We are using traditional equipment,

The contained sugar starts to turn into alcohol and, after a while, the alcohol starts to turn into vinegar. This is not as simple a process as it sounds, though, for there are cases when still there is sugar in the pálinka but it is already turning sour, vinegar-like. In such cases we need to intervene promptly and treat the material – I mean, even during the fermentation phase there are moments when we can ruin the good raw material: either it is exposed to temperatures too high or, in the wintertime, the temperature is too low for the fermenting fungi to be active (these are known to be active between 10 – 25 degrees Celsius).

Now we have arrived to the distillation phase.

In the initial phase it is easy to tell when the alcohol evaporated from the cauldron. This can be checked with the help of a match or lighter. In the next phase, however, there can be problems with the pre-distillate or the post-distillate mixing in. It is crucial to separate these two things and this is only possible by smelling and tasting.

Can one tell if the fruits used to produce pálinka have been chemically treated in any form or are these chemicals totally filtered out during the distillation process?

No, they do not get filtered out, moreover, if the fruits (i.e. apple or pear) have been sprayed with chemicals of the kind that allow extended storage for marketing purposes, we are talking about chemicals that render the fermentation of the fruits impossible.

Chemically treated, sprayed fruits are not a good choice for producing pálinka, the result is a considerably poorer quality.

Is there a difference in fragrance if we compare the wet and the dry tests? \We can name two kinds of pálinka-tasting tests, namely, the wet-, respectively, the dry test. There is a huge difference between the two.

In case of the wet test we actually savor and smell the pálinka itself, when we are confronted with the mixed fragrances of alcohol and fruit, respectively, the mixed tastes of alcohol and fruit.

When smelling and savoring we should bear in mind that the higher the degree of alcohol, the more dulled are the fragrances and tastes of the fruit or the natural flavors. The lower the alcoholic strength, the more perceptible the fragrance and flavor of the fruit.

In case of the dry tasting test the pálinka is poured into the glass which has to be moved a bit for the flavors and fragrances to stick on the wall of the glass, then the pálinka is either spilled or drunk out. In a few minutes the alcohol evaporates from the empty glass and what remains is the pure fragrance of the fruit. The dry test is more efficient than the wet one, although we can only judge by the perceived smell.

A method used by villagers has pálinka drops poured on top of the hand and rubbed off so that the alcohol is gone and one can smell the fragrance on his/her hand. In case of the dry test more fragrances are released than in case of the wet one. In case of a poor-quality pálinka the wrong fragrances are released.

Both tests are applied, and they always begin with the wet test. The dry test is of greater significance when dealing with fine-quality pálinka; in case of a pálinka where wrong substances can be discerned already in the savoring phase, the dry test only confirms the presence of such undesired substances.

The wet and the dry tests are the two major fragrance- and flavor testing methods applied in case of the pálinka.

The most important thing is that the flavor and fragrance of the used fruit are conveyed by the resulted pálinka as clearly as possible, when drinking it, it should be easy to recognize the authentic taste and fragrance of the source-fruit.

In order to obtain this result the first and foremost factor is the raw material, the second most important factor being the technology.

We can distinguish between two types of pálinka: pálinka with a cooked taste versus pálinka with a fried taste, just like meat that can be either cooked or fried.

The acquired taste is determined by the cauldron system used during the manufacturing of the pálinka: if a single-wall cauldron with wood-heating and incorporated stirring system is used, the resulting pálinka will have a fried taste.

Double-wall-systems with oil and no stirring system lead to a cooked taste. Once again, most important is the raw material, second most important is the applied technology which can be further developed depending on how refined the fruit mash is desired to be.

Why are flavor and fragrance so important in case of the pálinka? How would you sum up your experience and knowledge in this respect?

These are the only indicators of just how good the pálinka is.

When consumed in the proper amount, the pálinka with the right flavor and fragrance has a beneficial effect on people’s state of mind, health and general well-being.

There are and always have been certain false beliefs and rumors according to which every single glass of pálinka kills thousands of brain cells.

This has been proved as false by a renowned Hungarian brain specialist, Freud Tamás. If consumed within the normal limits, with moderation, the pálinka produces positive effects on people’s mood, digestive system.

Obviously enough, excess drinking of pálinka should be avoided. People who consume pálinka in excess do not understand the message transmitted by the pálinka in the first place. A carefully selected fine-quality pálinka can render a dinner

or feast more pleasant and enjoyable, it enhances people’s state of spirit, mood, if one can truly appreciate the long journey behind the served product, how much effort and attention have been dedicated to its production until it finally ended up on the dinner table.

What message does the fine-quality, pure Transylvanian pálinka convey?

I have the firm belief and my experience also tells me that people love pálinka.

A good quality palinka reflects the love and dedication of all those people who have been engaged in preparing it and this, of course, will only serve the benefit of the consumer.

So are we right saying that Transylvanian pálinka is the common product, creation of the Transylvanian nature and the skilled Transylvanian distillers?

Absolutely. The regular consumer of pálinka is able to tell a lot of things from the fine-quality pálinka. *** As far as the quality of our pálinka is concerned, it is important to leave it to rest for a while – for several months after distillation -, in order for the fragrances and flavors to blend. For example, the pálinka that has been rested for at least 4 months in a wooden barrel will be more silky, hence its consumption will be more enjoyable. A true specialty of high quality is considered the pálinka that has been previously stored in a strawberry-tree barrel: in this way the pálinka acquires a special flavor, fragrance, color and silkiness.

R A L PE PE KA P A LIN PÁ

S RU IS E N IP U N M KA U J OM LIN C PÁ

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SPECIAL THANKS TO

Géza Szakács Bene Imola Anna Kacsó Csaba Csípán Transilvanian pálinka distiller CSIPÁNPÁLINKA Tibor Vértes Hungarian pálinka distiller and brandy reviewer AGÁRDI PÁLINKAFŐZDE Tibor Dezső Transilvanian pálinka distiller POTIO NOBILIS C. A. Waterschoot glassblower Harry Kluijtmans stonemason Allison Crank Philipp Kollmann Johan Viladrich Ruud van Gool Carl Rethmann

© 2014 ZALÁN SZAKÁCS