Natural Mumma Magazine March 2019 by T5 Publications

Issue Twenty March 2019

TakingCare CareOf OfYourself, Yourself,Your Your Tribe Taking And Our Our World... World... And

GENDER &COFFEE

The Plight Of Female Agricultural Workers In Coffee Production

#BalanceForBetter The Stories That Matter To Mark International Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s NMM March Day 2019 1

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TakingCare CareOf OfYourself, Yourself,Your Your Tribe Taking And Our Our World... World... And

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Issue Eight March 2018

Issue Seven February 2018

Issue Five December 2017

Getting Ready For The New Season

Gifts Of Love, Made With Feeling

Under Cover Expert

Chic & Sustainable Partywear

Luxurious Lingerie Laid Bare

Winter Holidays Unwrapped

Ethically Engaged

Exploring Ethical Tourism & Travel

The True Cost Of Gold

Not Just A Pretty Face Season’s Best Eco Makeup

The Mane Event

Toxin Free Hairstyling

Sowing Organic NMM December 2017

NMM February 2018

Digging Deep For Pesticide Free Produce

Flower Of The Frock NMM March 2018 Floral Fashion For Spring

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February 2019 NMM

Welcome To Natural Mumma Magazine Contents 4

A Woman’s Work The pilght of female agricultural workers in coffee production

Best Of British Our pick of the UK’s top natural beauty products

Balance For Better - which way to achieve gender equality...? by Sian Conway of #EthicalHour

Sustenance Of The Self Gaayathri Periasami talks about what sustainability really means

The Fabric Social Slavery in the fashion industry

Natural Mumma Makes... Mocha Orange Donuts Contact: holly@naturalmumma.com Photo by Gerard Hughes

Holly wears T-shirt by Surviving Society Makeup by Take Two Cosmetics and Outsidethebox Hair by Anita Grant.

or International Women’s Day we’re bringing you a selection of female voices from changemakers across the world. Our regular columnist, #EthicalHour’s Sian Conway speaks out about gender bias and Joky François from the Rainforest Alliance talks about the plight of female agricultural workers in coffee production. Gaayathri Periasami from Baby Peppers shares a moving account of sustainability in reference to a single mother living in the slums of Chennai as she works to provide for her children.

Fiona McAlpine from The Fabric Social has written an inspiring piece about slavery in the fashion industry. These are all women who are fighting to make a change, who have built businesses around this need and are devoted to making a difference. Our beauty product review this month focuses on everything British Made, in support of brands threatened to be impacted by Brexit. For our recipe we decided to celebrate the women that Joky wrote about, as we explored the taste of coffee and created some delicious Mocha Orange Donuts. Next month is all about Fashion Revolution celebrating the brands who are doing it right, and looking at ways in which we can make a difference.

NMM March 2019

A WOMAN’S

WORK Women play a vital part in the production of tea and coffee around the world, but their voices go largely unheard. It’s time for change says Joky François of the Rainforest Alliance.

s we celebrate International Women’s Day 2019 and highlight the need to build a gender-balanced world, it is worth reflecting on the women working on coffee farms globally. Their work often goes unnoticed and their voices too often go unheard but there are also success stories. When Florence Njiraini’s new husband gifted her 1500 coffee plants on the slopes of Mt. Kenya years ago, she knew

March 2019 NMM

almost nothing about farming. Determined to make her plot a success, she set about learning as much as she could, and soon she was employing sustainable growing practices. Njiraini is not only successful as a farmer but also as a leader. Today, Njiraini is the lead farmer for the Mutira Farmers’ Cooperative, a group of more than 5500 Kenyan smallholders that has been Rainforest Alliance Certified since

2013—and she’s a model to other farmers, particularly women, throughout her region. Whilst we reflect on the importance of ‘gender balance’ during this year’s International Woman’s Day the reality is that there’s still a long way to go for women to achieve gender equality and equal access to resources in farms globally. Nearly half the world’s agricultural work is performed by women but,

Below: Women of Alimentos NutriNaturales S.A. (ANSA)Â sort ramon nuts and spread them out for drying at their processing center and bakery for ramon nuts in Ixlu, Guatemala. Photo: Sergio Izquierdo

NMM March 2019

Photo: Matthew Harmer

unsurprisingly, they have far less access to resources than men do. In fact, when people talk about farmers, they usually refer to the men. If the playing field were made level, women could increase their farm yields by 20-30 per cent, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization. And if women were paid fairly, businesses in all sectors would also see benefits in terms of staff retention, productivity and, not least the general wellbeing of their workforce. Development experts believe gender equality will be critical to global food security in the coming decades, as the world’s farmers struggle to produce food for a rapidly growing population on a shrinking area of arable land. In Latin America, one in five farmworkers is a woman, and in East Asia and sub-Saharan Africa, half of all agricultural laborers are women. Yet women in developing countries often have no, or much less access to resources (such as credit), training and information than their male counterparts which often results in lower crop yields for them. At the same time, numerous studies have shown that when women control household income, they are more likely than men to spend money on their families (food, clothing, education and health-related items)—with benefits for the entire community. Research shows a 20 per cent increase in childhood survival rates when women manage their household budget. And when women farmers are given equal access and control to resources, education, financing, and land rights, they can increase farm yields by 20 to 30 per cent. Meantime, pressure is mounting on business from governments,

March 2019 NMM

NGOs and civil society to comply with the UN guidelines for Business and Human rights. This is particularly true for forced labour issues, which are strongly linked to gender and for sexual harassment, as evidenced by the growth of social movements such as #MeToo. The welcome news is that companies are starting to take these issues more seriously. Women’s organisations, particularly in the farming and agricultural sectors, have been getting stronger; and specifically, the products made by women are increasingly becoming more and more sought after. Also, in the coffee sector, one of Rainforest Alliance’s key commodity areas which we certify, gender issues are starting to receive more attention. In 2018, the central theme of international coffee day was “women in coffee” that was highlighted with the publication of a documentary on gender in coffee. Within the coffee sector, the International Women in Coffee Alliance, was funded in 2003 by women from Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and the US, and now has 22 country chapters. One of these has organised regional competitions of women coffee grafters in the last five years. There is a broad consensus among development and supply chain experts that without women’s empowerment the world will not meet the UN Sustainable Development Goals by 2030. At the Rainforest Alliance, we’ve seen that the advancement of women is key to improving sustainable livelihoods in the agricultural sector. Multiple studies have shown that when women gain more economic strength, their families and communities benefit as well.

Below: India Tea Plucker in Nilgiri, Tamil Nadu named Saroja, a tea plantation worker at Woodlands Estate. Photo: Sara Hylton

These benefits over time cascade across the whole sector. We consider men’s participation in women’s empowerment initiatives as an integral part of the process to achieve gender equality. Disregarding their role can lead to undesired outcomes, such as low participation rates by women and lack of sustainability over time, or even increased gender-

based violence. And all sectors, not just agriculture, have something to gain from enhanced gender equality and social equity. In addition, gender equality can provide businesses with the opportunity to hire from a wider pool of talent, gain greater insights into consumers’ needs, and improve the security and

quality of supply. Companies that haven’t done so already should make 2019 the year to take action on gender equality. As the #Balanceforbetter campaign highlights “everyone has a part to play - all the time, everywhere. From grassroots activism to worldwide action, we are entering an exciting period of history where the world expects

balance. We notice its absence and celebrate its presence.” It is clear that we need more balance for a better world. Why wouldn’t everyone strive for equal rights and opportunities for men AND women involved in producing our daily coffee? Let’s all help create a #BalanceforBetter. https://www.rainforest-alliance.org NMM March 2019

Natural Mumma Loves... Boobalou

Boobalou is a one-stop shop for plastic free living. As well as items you might expect, Jo sources more unusual items such as brushes, hair ties and reusable tea bags. She believes that making a few small changes to your life can make a big difference to the environment. Don’t miss her HankyBooks and tie dye reusable bin bags! . www.boobalou.co.uk

Origins Of Beauty

Origins of Beauty is the online boutique for the conscious consumer who values health, wellbeing and the environment. Founded on the ethos and strong belief that natural beauty and well being are derived from nature’s ingredients, you are invited to indulge in ‘Guilt Free Beauty and Wellbeing’ with Origins of Beauty.. www.originsofbeauty.com

Madia & Matilda Madia & Matilda specalise in upcycled and sustainable fabrics. Each piece is handcrafted with care, turning old garments and remnants, into new designs. Keeping heritage and craft alive, yet with an innovative twist; Madia & Matilda share a passion for beautifully created clothing, prolonging a garment’s lifespan and leading to a less wasteful world. www.madiamatilda.co.uk

March 2019 NMM

White Black Grey Online lifestyle store, White Black Grey, have launched a Kids’ Collection. Alongside their beautiful collections of monochrome homewares, gifts and stationery, WBG are expanding their ranges to include the smallest members of the household. Bag a black and white masterpiece for the nursery, and you might just spot something lovely for the lounge as well. . whiteblackgrey.co.uk

Baby Kingdom

Baby Kingdom’s new Talc Free Baby Powder has been designed to form a protective layer, leaving skin soft and healthy. The state of the art, airless pump releases just enough product to cover the desired area. This antibacterial, soothing and hydrating natural blend of ingredients is completely free from any sulphates, parabens and other harsh irritants. www.babykingdomcollection.co.uk

Natural Mumma Baby Book Offer This gentle guide starts with planning your pregnancy and then takes you on a week-by-week journey through a holistic and healthy pregnancy, an active birth and the precious early months of being a parent. With chapters dedicated to caring for a newborn and looking after yourself both before and after birth, it offers personal insight, instruction and advice from Holly and Samantha who specialize in pregnancy yoga, massage and active birth. The Natural Baby covers all you need to know before, during and after your pregnancy: *how to prepare for pregnancy *a week-by-week description of your baby’s growth *exercise and complementary therapies *natural remedies *how to have an amazing birth experience *tips on breastfeeding The Natural Baby A gentle guide to conception, pregnancy, birth & beyond *naturally nutritious weaning Samantha Quinn & Holly Daffurn (Green Books, 2017)

SPECIAL NATURAL MUMMA OFFER: £10 (including postage) (RRP £14.99) https://naturalmumma.com

*home-made organic beauty preparations for the mother *delicious and healthy recipes for before, during and after pregnancy NMM March 2019 9

Best Of British Our pick of the top natural beauty products made in the UK. Fresh Therapies Nail Polish Remover

Without acetone or alcohol, this gentle nail polish remover contains no nasty chemicals that can harm you or your nails. The fresh scent contains invigorating hints of lime and leaves your nails feeling soft and nourished. It effectively removes nail polish and is suitable for pregnant women.

March 2019 NMM

Nourish Kale 3D Cleanse

This facial wash leaves your skin feeling clean, refreshed and softened. It works hard at removing makeup and leaves your skin looking healthier with added radiance. The colour change as the product works is appealing and the scent is delicate and pampering. A real treat for the senses.

Laidbare Pack Your Bags & Butter Me Up

This soothing all natural eye cream instantly brightens the eye area, softening the effect of dark circles and making you look more rested and awake. The body butter absorbs quickly and has a beautiful, delicate fragrance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; leaving your skin silky smooth and deeply nourished.

Vertue Box Skin & Tonic - Brit Beauty Oil

Vertue Boxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s green beauty and wellbeing subscription box service is a wonderful way to learn about new products and try them out for yourself. Their last box contained this super effective and hydrating oil, as well as Selkie Smooth body soak, Au Naturale eyeshadow, Kingfisher toothpaste, Natural Family toothbrushes and more.

Willow Vitamin Facial Oil & Cell Renewing Cleansing Mask

This cleansing mask and facial oil from Willow are the perfect combination to treat your skin to some sheer indulgence. Both products contains GatulineÂŽ Expression, proven to smooth the skin and reduce the appearance of expression lines, leaving you with younger looking, healthier skin.

KiteNest Shampoo Bar

This zero waste shampoo bar is enriched with natural butters and oils to truly nourish your hair. The lemon peel provides a delicious, zingy fragrance and the bar lathers up effortlessly, leaving you with squeaky clean hair. Ideal for the whole family, this gentle shampoo bar lasts ages and keeps well.

Fitzjohn Skincare Radiance of Venus

This wonder product gently exfoliates and tightens, leaving you with brighter, more radiant skin. Packed full of natural goodness (including Natural Fruit AFAs) this product really feeds the skin. Create the perfect base for your moisturiser by sloughing off the old and revealing beautiful, bright skin.

NMM March 2019

by Sian Conway, Founder #EthicalHour

he idea of balance inspires a gentle, calm image in my mind, inspiring idyllic scenes of morning yoga classes and hygge interiors fresh from my Pinterest feed. While I love the theme of International Women’s Day 2019 - ‘Balance For Better’ - the sense of calm and gentleness is not what I feel when I think about gender equality. It’s 2019 and we still have to fight to have an equal platform. I’m raging, and you should be too. Because gender equality isn’t something “other people” need to worry about. It’s real, and whether you’re aware of it or not, it’s showing up in your daily life. Globally only 24 per cent of all national parliamentarians are women. So the important decisions about women’s rights and laws that affect us are predominantly decided by men. It’s not just at a political level that women are underrepresented. The number of women holding the most senior jobs in Britain’s boardrooms fell last year. There are now just 30 women in full-time executive roles at FTSE 250 firms – amounting to 6.4 per cent. According to the Department for Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy, the excuses given included: “all the ‘good’ women have already been snapped up” and “we have one woman already it’s someone else’s turn”. We can’t necessarily escape inequalities in pay by starting our own ventures either. According to a new report by the Treasury, for every £1 of venture capital investment in the UK, only 1p goes to female entrepreneurs. Which

Balance For Better we need disruption if we’re going to achieve gender equality

March 2019 NMM

means women are only getting 1 per cent of business funding investment in the UK! From parliament to boardrooms, major decisions affecting women aren’t being made by women, and this has a ripple effect. In the UK the gender pay gap sits at 8.6 per cent. And not only do we earn less, we also pay more. Tampons and other ‘sanitary protection products’ are classed as ‘luxury’, ‘non-essential’ products, which means they’re subject to VAT (at a reduced rate) we pay an extra 5 per cent. In 2018 the UK government announced plans to create a fund for “good causes that tackle serious issues that women of all ages face” using the money gained from the tampon tax. Feels like a generous move, but in reality it’s paying lip service to gender equality and neglecting a serious issue faced by one in ten women in the UK - period poverty. At a time when we’re facing a global climate crisis and increasing political instability, we must address gender inequality. According to McKinsey Global Institute, achieving a “full potential” scenario in which women play an identical role in labour markets to that of men could add $28 trillion (26 per cent) to global annual GDP by 2025.

Imagine the ripple effect that would create and the resources it would make available for tackling other major global problems. To put this into context, Sachs calculated that to end extreme poverty worldwide within 20 years, that the total cost would be about $175 billion per year. Gender equality is Goal Five of the Sustainable Development Goals - a global agenda of 17 goals set out by the UN to help us create a better future for everyone. None of the goals stand alone because when we achieve gender equality, we will be closer to tackling issues like hunger, health and climate change. UN figures indicate that 80 per cent of people displaced by climate change are women and we already know that if we don’t get climate change under control within the next 10 years it will change life as we know it for everyone around the world. This is all within our power to change. We can all raise our voices and campaign for gender balance. We can work together to amplify women’s voices and achieve equality. If there’s not currently room at the table, maybe it’s time to build a new table with space for all of us? Twitter: @EthicalHour and @SianEConway Instagram: @EthicalHour

Ethical Hour Clothing

Wear Your Values! Organic, sustainable, ethical tees to change the world! Each garment sold gives a hygiene kit to a girl in Cambodia. Ethically made feminist slogan tshirts and hoodies Because a feminist t-shirt isn’t empowering unless it’s made ethically! The perfect fit and organic softness. And best of all, they use certified organic fabrics and renewable energy in their supply chain so you can wear your values and live them too.

No Planet B There is No Planet B! Show your love for mother earth and wear your values with this super soft, organic cotton women’s tee. Available today with worldwide shipping. https://ethicalhour.teemill.com

Natural Mumma Magazine

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Natural Mumma

FASHION REVOLUTION THE CHANGING FACE OF THE GARMENT INDUSTRY - WHAT WILL YOU WEAR...? NATURAL MUMMA MAGAZINE ISSUE 21 AVAILABLE FROM 5 APRIL 2019

March 2019

NMM Team Editor: Holly Daffurn

holly@naturalmumma.com

Creative: Gerard Hughes mail@gerardhughes.co.uk

Cover Image by Gerard Hughes www.naturalmumma.com Natural Mumma Magazine

is produced by T5 Publications. Contents may not be reproduced, stored or distributed in any form without prior written permission. All reasonable efforts have been made to ensure all information contained in this magazine is accurate but the publishers can accept no responsibiilty for effects arising therefrom. All rights reserved. We receive compensation for all products featured on the ‘Natural Mumma Loves...’ pages as well as several of the other brands mentioned in the magazine. We only work with companies whose ethos reflects the intention of this publication. All of the written content is copyright Natural Mumma Magazine (unless stated otherwise) and full rights to this material belongs to Natural Mumma Magazine (or any other named authors).

Fashion Revolution Events from #Ethica

FUTURE

FASHION

FOCUS

Are you looking to start or grow a business in the ethical and sustainable fashion sector?

n Friday 26th April 2019 ethical fashion leaders will come together for a live mastermind where you can learn, connect and grow your ethical and sustainable fashion brand. Over the last decade, ethical fashion – developing, producing and selling clothes, accessories and footwear in a way that preserves people, animals and the planet – has become a growing focus in the mainstream fashion industry, and a key strategic focus for many independent brands. Many research studies have confirmed that 65 – 70 per cent of consumers under 35 around the world report that they will choose brands or retailers based on their ethical practices. According to Ethical Consumer Magazine, the UK ethical clothing

March 2019 NMM

market has increased by 19.9 per cent at a time of falling retail sales — a clear sign that consumers are eager to switch to fashion with a social and environmental purpose! But with big brands coming to play in this space and greenwashed marketing messages confusing consumers, it’s time for the independent brands to stake their claim in the market and turn their good business practices into a competitive advantage. During Fashion Revolution Week 2019, the team behind #EthicalHour and Where Does It Come From? want to bring ethical and sustainable fashion entrepreneurs together to shape the future of the industry and learn how to start and scale their ventures - giving them access to expert business consultancy and marketing support at this

exclusive live mastermind. Their industry leading speakers will explore the key elements of a successful ethical fashion venture, from transparent supply chains, environmentally friendly business practices and ethical accreditations, to marketing, customer attraction and sales. Plus there will be the opportunity to pitch your idea to their panel of experts to get valuable feedback and tips to help you grow. https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/ future-fashion-focus-livemastermind-tickets-56566632320

al Hour and Where Does It Come From?

Make a weekend of it!

Be The Change Awards 2019 On Friday evening there will be a celebration of the inaugural Be The Change Awards at the Museum of Brands. Celebrating the achievements and impact of independent ethical and sustainable brands from around the world! Be present as the awards are distributed, share some of the inspiring stories from the world’s changemakers and celebrate with a drinks reception kindly provided by our sponsors, Adnams Southwold. All finalists, judges and sponsors receive a free ticket. If you are not a finalist, judge or sponsor you are still welcome to attend. Further details will be provided soon.

Ethical Brands For Fashion Revolution

The UK’S Leading Annual Independent Ethical Fashion Showcase On Saturday 27th April 2019, independent ethical clothing brands from around the UK will come together once again at London’s Brand Museum to support the Fashion Revolution message and show consumers that there is a viable, ethical alternative to high street, fast fashion brands. There will be ethical fashion discussions, shopping opportunities, as well as expert panels and Q&A sessions throughout the day. Be part of this event to discover beautiful new brands, vote with your wallet and help change the face of the fashion industry for the better!

Find out more and book tickets here: https://www.eventbrite. co.uk/e/ethical-brands-forfashion-revolution-2019tickets-56198608551 NMM March 2019

October 2018 NMM

THE SUSTENANCE OF THE

SELF Gaayathri Periasami is the founder and creator of Baby Peppers, an ethical and sustainable brand specialising in heritage techniques and slow fashion while invested in making a social change.

ow many time have we heard that ‘Sustainability is the new norm‘?. But are sloganbearing idealists lobbying for a more sustainable way of living without truly understanding what such a complex term means? There seems to be grave misconception amongst various groups that ‘sustainability’ refers to anything climate or environment related. That may be true, but only partially, and environmental factors are only a small, albeit significant component of the whole spectrum of sustainability. It’s rather disappointing that the whole framework of sustainability remains largely unexplored. Wikipedia defines sustainability as “the process of maintaining change in a balanced environment,

in which the exploitation of resources, the direction of investments, the orientation of technological development and institutional change are all in harmony and enhance both current and future potential to meet human needs and aspirations.” Upon re-reading this statement, it is astounding how so many elements underpin the core of sustainability and yet many businesses predominantly and conveniently relate sustainability to only the preservation of the environment. The concepts of ‘balance’, ‘resources’, ‘technology’, ‘human needs and aspirations’, and ‘future possibilities’ are all woven inextricably into what sustainability truly means. A good place to learn more

about sustainability and what it truly means is from the United Nations website. The United Nations has drafted 17 Sustainable Development Goals in an effort to make people understand what it means to create a sustainable future for all. “They address the global challenges we face, including those related to poverty, inequality, climate, environmental degradation, prosperity, and peace and justice. The Goals interconnect and in order to leave no one behind…” With so many factors underpinning sustainability, the notion of ‘sustainability’ is complex; hard to grasp for the average human mind and perhaps that is why there is a tendency to oversimplify its meaning and attribute it solely

NMM October 2018

to environmental factors. An oversimplification of anything runs the risk of more dangers than destinations. It cannot help you conclusively reach a solution, it keeps you in limbo because it wasn’t considered holistically from the start. And this is where is gets problematic when a company spends considerable amounts of money, time and effort in creating products in the name of sustainability, yet treats its employees with disdain and disregard. What’s the use of creating amazing products when you haven’t been able to grant flexible working options for a mother returning to the workforce after months or even years. What’s the use of creating planet-friendly products when the very people crafting them are riddled and plagued with anxiety because of pay cuts or restructures. This whole terrifying process then begs the question “What is sustainability and how can I foster it? How can I embody it and how can I propel it from within? Sustainability is essentially the sustenance of humanity and expanding on this, it is really the sustenance of the ‘self’ first - to sustain your human form in a way

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that is ready to create maximum good for yourself and then your fellow beings. From that new found knowledge, you can then create the life not only you want but also the life that others want. If the sustenance of humanity is first and foremost self-preservation of the self, then is it not only fair that your employees, artisans, workers are given fair wages for their work, decent working conditions, access to good meals and proper sanitisation, clean drinking water, a healthy environment in which their mind, body and soul thrives and sustains on good intentions rather than self-doubt. When you break it down like that, it is really not that hard a concept to grasp after all. Sustainability is the elevation of humanity or rather should I say the evolution of humanity to preserve the goodness of what’s left of the world for future generations, for the children of tomorrow. It is seeing the determination in the eyes of a single mother living in the slums of Chennai to provide hope and normalcy for her children. That blaze in her heart that drives her to show up to work everyday so that she can create financial and economic independence. Her mind

or life may be broken but not her hands and legs. She will work with her hands and think with her heart for the sake of her children. Why should they suffer for the political instability and incoherence of a torn nation or corrupt government? By wanting to better herself by upscaling and up-skilling and taking on more jobs in the fair-trade collective, she will automatically want to better the environment she lives in and the causal effects of those are that her fellow peers and children will also benefit from her positive actions and the little community of single mothers she is part of is now sustained on an abundance of optimism. The mother’s hands and legs grow weary and tired but her heart is full of fire. That is sustainability, that hunger to live a life of abundance in the hopes of selfpreservation for herself and her child and her children’s children, and her fellow female friends who show up to work with her in little mud brick houses to tirelessly craft the products. Sustainability then becomes an element of conscience. It starts from the new business that is founded and then filtered its way through the partnerships the business forms with other collectives, workshops and businesses. For instance, by you as the consumer making a conscious decision to buy sustainable products crafted by artisan collectives whose health and wellbeing are preserved with the type of work they engage in, you are directly preserving the dignity of these women. You are sustaining their resilience and grit by giving them another chance at life despite their horrors of sexual and physical abuse, or despite their intellectual limitations. The true element of sustainability starts with you, as the element of the ‘self’ before that consciousness flows on to other people and creates a compounding effect.

NMM March 2019

The Fabr Let’s kick slavery out of our wardrobes this International Women’s Day. If we all agree to konmarie our wardrobes this year, can we also agree to eradicate slavery while we’re at it?

’m in Lakwa, a village tucked away in the far eastern state of Assam, India. This is where eri silk, more popularly known as peace silk comes from. It is also the location of The Fabric Social’s weaving centre, and we are visiting to take some photos ahead of Fashion Revolution Week. Lakwa was once a stronghold of the Assamese liberation movement. Some community members were guerilla fighters, some were nonviolent political thinkers. It is a village with the water-tight bonds that come with surviving armed conflict. It is also a place where conflictaffected women are using inclusive business to rebuild grassroots economies and strengthen their communities. The Fabric Social is an ethical fashion label that has been working with post-conflict communities for 5 years, creating small batch peace silk collections for the international market. Our grassroots approach is in stark contrast to the stories we too often hear from the fast fashion production hubs. 40 million people worldwide are trapped in modern slavery, and more than 70 per cent of those people are women. People at the bottom of all supply chains have it incredibly tough and fashion is one of the most exploitative industries. The garment industry is the largest employer of women worldwide and these are mostly young, rural migrant women.

March 2019 NMM

Fashion is an inescapably feminist issue and the scale of the problem cannot be understated. It’s Sumi’s turn to be photographed and she can’t stop laughing. It’s the end of a 6-hour work day of weaving. A group of high school students gather around to watch the photo shoot amongst the trees, adding fuel to Sumi’s giggle fire. Sumi is a ball of energy. In her spare time, she trains as a mixed martial arts fighter, and has placed in competitions at the state level. She sets her own work schedule, spending her mornings jogging around the abundant local tea plantations to keep her fitness level up. Sumi earns an average of $12 per metre of fabric she weaves on the fly shuttle loom, and she can weave between 2 and 5 meters in a day. Apart from weaving for us, her complicated mekhla chadors (the local Assamese version of a sari) are highly sought after in the village. In a week, she can easily rake in what a garment worker in a typical fast fashion factory earns in a month. Earnings are pooled and redistributed by the weaving group, meaning that everyone in the supply chain is paid a fair income. Although this is determined by the women on the ground, when we first arrived in the village we told them to put their prices up. The Fabric Social doesn’t have any fancy certifications (which are difficult

ric Social

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to obtain for small producers), but we’re comfortable knowing that our supply chain is radically transparent. Had Sumi chosen to move to the big smoke and work in one of the fast fashion hubs, her life might be quite different. She could expect to work 12-16 hour days, 6 days a week, for about $60 a month. This is enough for food, shelter and not much else. She might be fired for taking sick days, trying to join a union, or any number of small infractions. It is extremely unlikely her artistic silk weaving skills would be put to work, as more than 95 per cent of future fiber production is predicted to be polyester. She will most likely learn to sew one section of one type of garment, which she will do ad infinitum,

March 2019 NMM

with a huge chance of acquiring a repetitive stress injury. If she is particularly unlucky, she will be worked to breaking point, be buried in a building collapse, or die in factory fire. We have been shown time and again that brands will continue to squeeze the life out of women as long as we continue to buy $5 t-shirts. A few weeks ago, it was revealed that the Spice Girls’ Comic Relief shirt was stitched by women getting paid 45 cents an hour. A University of California Berkeley study released last month found that in India, the finishings for most major brands were done by young women being paid around 19 cents an hour. The stories of exploitation and abuse are a daily occurence. We simply aren’t doing well enough: we are

leaving too many women behind. There is no longer any excuse for self identifying feminists in western countries to buy clothing that puts women like Sumi in danger of falling into the modern slavery system. We can’t march the streets in “I am a feminist” or #metoo shirts that were made by a woman earning pennies. While we all love a bargain, we should be able to wake up to this hypocrisy, and to recognise that women working under soul-destroying conditions are deliberately obscured from our collective view. We’re better than this. Yes, we need to look at larger structural problems in order to overcome these systems of oppression. But we each have a small role to play as wearers of clothing, as consumers of cloth.

We need to be smarter and look far deeper. It takes fewer than thirty seconds to read a label, and less than a minute to whip out your mobile phone and google the ethical credentials of the store you’re visiting. International Women’s Day began over a hundred years ago as a way to bring together international movements of equality and liberation. Perhaps the world is fragmented in new ways, but our capacity as women to create international movements for change has never been more globalized. If 2018 was the year that we said time’s up for sexual harassment, maybe 2019 can be the year that we collectively decide the clock has run out on fast fashion. If we all agree to konmarie our wardrobes this year,

can we agree to eradicate slavery from our wardrobes while we’re at it? Inclusive businesses like The Fabric Social are changing the narrative and changing lives like Sumi’s for the better. A wealth of alternatives now exist in all shapes, sizes and tastes. A little bit of research and a little bit more money goes a long way towards ending these exploitative industries. If you make one commitment this International Women’s Day, let it be to stand up for garment workers, to start buying from conscious companies and to stamp out slavery from your wardrobe. Bio: Fiona McAlpine is CoFounder of The Fabric Social, an Australian fashion label creating peace silk collections in India. NMM March 2019

You Will Need: â&#x20AC;&#x153;...the rings of dough really fizz and swell when dropped into the hot oil...â&#x20AC;?

For the donuts: 250g strong white flour 25g caster sugar 20g unsalted butter (cut into small cubes) 1 free range egg 7g instant yeast 5g/1 teaspoon salt 75ml warm milk 3 tablespoons orange juice Zest of one large orange 1 litre sunflower oil to fry For the glaze: 175g icing sugar 2 teaspoons cocoa powder 4 tablespoons milky coffee (unsweetened and left to cool)

March 2019 NMM

natural mumma makes

Mocha Orange Donuts J

okyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s piece on gender and coffee inspired us to create a recipe that fused coffee flavours in a delicious dessert. We love the subtle bitterness of good coffee, and wanted to lift this with the sweetness of chocolate. The citrus of the orange cuts through beautifully and smells wonderful too. Donuts are simple to make and by experimenting with flavoured doughs and glazes, you can get quite creative in the kitchen. Children will love coming up with different flavour combinations. There is also a sense of drama to the cooking process as the rings of dough really fizz and swell when dropped into the hot oil. Making donuts is the perfect rainy day activity as the two proving sessions mean you can swap activities and get on with something else while the dough is doing its thing. There is also a lot of fun to be had in forming the

rings by prising a hole into the centre of each mound of dough and liberally spinning them against your work station. This process is appealing to children of all ages. Glazed donuts require a little patience as you have to wait for your donuts to cool before applying the glaze (and leave them to sit so that the glaze sets to a beautiful glossy finish). However, freshly made donuts can be served warm after being rolled in a light coating of sugar (with perhaps a sprinkling of cinnamon). If coffee isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t your thing simply substitute the coffee for another flavoured liquid such as a fruit juice when creating your glaze. These sugary treats are great for children, but by experimenting with more sophisticated flavours you can add a bit of grown up kitsch too. Try pistachio and rose water donuts with a matcha glaze for a striking look and delicious, subtle flavours. NMM March 2019

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Add all of the donut ingredients into a large bowl and combine well with a wooden spoon. Knead the mixture for 10 minutes, carefully adding more flour as needed.

Cover the dough with a clean, damp cloth and leave in a warm place for 40 minutes.

Carefully remove the dough from the bowl (do not be alarmed if it hasn’t risen much, a lot of the rise happens during cooking). Dust your surface with flour and roll the dough out until it is around ½ inch thick.

Use a straight-edged cookie cutter (of around 3 ¾ inches) to cut the dough into circles. You should have around 8-10 donuts.

Prise a hole into each donut, using your index finger. Gently spin the donut around your finger (against the well-floured board) so that the central hole expands a little.

Transfer your donuts onto a lightly floured baking tray, leaving space around each one. Carefully cover with a loose piece of cling film and leave to prove for 30 minutes in a warm place.

After 30 minutes, heat your sunflower oil in a medium sized pan. You can test if the oil is ready by carefully adding a small piece of dough to the oil. Once the dough turns crispy and light brown, you can start to cook your donuts.

Cook the donuts, one at a time. Gently lower each donut into the pan and allow to cook for 1 minute on each side before removing with a slotted spoon.

Leave the donuts to cool before mixing up your glaze ingredients and dipping each donut into the glaze. After 10 minutes the glaze will set and you will be able to enjoy your donuts.

March 2019 NMM

natural mumma makes

Candied Orange Slices These orange slices donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just taste fantastic, but they look brilliant too and are a wonderful way to decorate desserts and sweet treats. You simply create a sugar syrup by combining 2 cups of water and 2 cups of sugar in a large saucepan. Stir well until combined and heat gently. Add fine slices of orange (around 5mm thick) and simmer for 45 minutes until the peel starts to go translucent. Keep turning the slices at regular intervals throughout the process, and keep an eye on the syrup to ensure that it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t start to brown or caramelise. Leave to cool on a wire rack until ready to use. The slices can be stored in an airtight container for a month.

Natural Mumma YouTube Channel You can find plenty more recipes on the Natural Mumma YouTube channel www.youtube.com/naturalmumma

NMM March 2019

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March 2019 NMM