Missoula.com Magazine - Fall 2008 by Missoulian

Fall 2008

room with a view

the new eastside expansion

faces of the poverello

something to howl about

an apple a day

twelfth season success

missoulaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s homeless share their stories

orchardists harvest a bumper crop

coyote choir records with the stars

hockey league smashes all barriers

missoula.com is is the the flagship flagship magazine magazine missoula.com of the missoulian newspaper of the missoulian newspaper

publisher stacey mueller publisher john vanstrydonck editor sherry devlin editor sherry devlin art director director kate art katemurphy murphy assistantart art director director mike assistant mikelake lake photo editor editor kurt photo kurtwilson wilson sales & marketing advertising director director kristen bounds jim mcgowan online director jim mcgowan writers tim akimoff writers tim akimoff betsy cohen betsy cohen chadflorio dundas gwen daryl gadbow daryl gadbow elizabeth lori grannis harrison michael jamison michael jamison bobmeseroll meseroll bob michael moore kate murphy kate gregmurphy patent joe nickell lauren russell greg patent photographers jodi tomrave bauer michael gallacher linda thompson bauer photographers tom kurt wilson michael gallacher

linda thompson

graphic design kurt diann kelly wilson megan richter graphic design diann chris kelly sawicki megan richter

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advertisingAvailable sales jacque walawander distribution in more than 160 racks in western Missoula.com magazine is a natural 523-5271 Montana, extension for people who read and rely on the Missoulian newspaper. Reaching 80,000 to 90,000 readers daily, long been .recognized as the most in-depth source the Missoulian has distribution Available in more than 160 thorough, racks in western Montana, of news in western magazine takes this Missoula.com magazineMontana. is a naturalMissoula.com extension for people who read and relyaward-winning on the coveragenewspaper. another step, showing off tothe very best of daily, Missoula in wordshas andlong Missoulian Reaching 80,000 90,000 readers the Missoulian photographs. Bythe capitalizing on thein-depth Missoulian’s throughout the region been recognized as most thorough, source presence of news in western Montana. and utilizingmagazine its established chain of distribution, Missoula.com magazine and Missoula.com takes this award-winning coverage another step, showing off Missoula.com Web site reachand more readers inBy more placeson than other such the very best of Missoula in words photographs. capitalizing the any Missoulian’s publication in western Montana. presence throughout the region and utilizing its established chain of distribution, Missoula.

com magazine and Missoula.com Web site reach more readers in more places than any No such part of the publication may be reprinted without permission. other publication in western Montana.

on the cover:

University of Montana sports information director Dave Guffey checks

on cover: out the the view from the new skybox at the remodeled Washington-Grizzly Ryan Springer pedals the which Clark Fork Riverseating with a delivery Stadium recently. Thealong skybox, includes for 130 of fans Lebehind Petit Outre breads bound for downtown Missoula restaurants. the large tinted windows, offers an unsurpassed view of the

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entire playing field and surrounds.

cover photo by linda thompson photo by kurt wilson

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vol.2 no.3

inside this issue

contents fall 2008 â&#x20AC;&#x153;I hope that people, if they see the portraits, will recognize that we all have some commonality.â&#x20AC;? page 28

in season

all year long

26 32 38 44 50 54

9 10 12 16 18 20 22 56 70

faces of the poverello room with a view an apple a day twelfth season success something to howl about on the beat

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the way we were fashion buzz flybox on the fly know your vino and your beer missoula cooks western montana getaway parting shot

flybox

a little farther still to find Lang Creek Brewing Co. But that’s all right with most folks. The people who make beer at Lang Creek call their rural lifestyle a state of mind. John and Sandy Campbell started the brewery in 1995, just a few years after John’s twin passions of flying and home brewing collided to make a dream come true. “The hangar that he kept his plane in is now the brewery,” Turnbull said. “He decided that home brewing was more than just a hobby and he turned it into what you see now.” And what you see now, after a bonejarring, milelong journey down dirt roads from the main highway, is a spacious red barn situated on a hill overlooking the Thompson River Valley. Inside, a 13-barrel brewhouse puts out 26 barrels of beer a day. For a small brewery a little more remote than the middle of nowhere, the aviation-themed Lang Creek Brewing Co. put out 2,500 barrels last year, or about 75,000 gallons. That’s not to say life in a remote valley is easy. Growth doesn’t come quickly when the guy who delivers malt can’t find you and help is hard to find because there are more moose and elk than people. For comparison sake, Big Sky Brewing Co., which got its start at about the same time, brews more than 30,000 barrels of beer a year, and is one of the 50 largest breweries in America. But facing up to the challenges of being America’s most remote brewery seems to do two things. It makes for pretty dedicated brewers. And it makes for really good beer.

t all started with Tri-Motor Amber Ale, a full-bodied malt machine with ample citrus from the Cascade hops and a grainy, woodsy aroma. The biggest seller for Lang Creek Brewing Co. is the Mandarin Hefeweizen. Though not tops on the must-have list for super saavy beer drinkers, not-so-snobby beer lovers find this American-style wheat beer flavored with just a hint of mandarin and the traditional kick of German Perle hops quite quaffable. Skydiver Blonde, a Dutch-style blonde beer with that grapefruity smell characteristic of the Centennial hops with which it is brewed, is a favorite of the skydivers who show up in Marion for the annual Skydive Lost Prairie Boogie every July and August. Rounding out the distribution line

continued on page 64 missoula.com magazine

n a word: human. In photographs and portraits, these 10 “Faces of the Pov” are forever frozen in quizzical, curious and thoughtful glances, eyes aged with creases of hard times, eyes too young to know hard times. With photography by Cathrine L. Walters and paintings by Kimberly Anderson, these portraits tell with visceral humanity the stories of the people who find themselves staying at Missoula’s Poverello Center, for whatever reason. “I hope that people, if they see the portraits, will recognize that we all have some commonality,” said Anderson, who worked from Walters’ photographs. “We are all human beings and we all share a human spirit.”

Sawyer, 2 Sawyer is Layne’s brother. He’s just 2, which he will tell you with his little fingers held up proudly. Sawyer says he likes cars, eating food, and “loves his mom a lot.”

Layne, 4 Like any 4-year-old, Layne likes to play. He likes to skateboard and “pop wheelies” and “bunny hop” on his bicycle; he also really likes to sled in the wintertime (the goose egg on Layne’s forehead is from a sledding accident!) Layne also likes Spiderman and his favorite movie is “8 Seconds.”

Pat, 66 Pat grew up in western Montana, but had spent the last 18 years of her life living in Idaho. Newly divorced, Pat decided to move back to Montana: “I just wanted to get out of Idaho. And I wanted to get on with my life.” Three months before her photograph was taken, Pat had arrived in Missoula with everything she owned packed into her car. She left her car running in the parking lot of a friend’s business in order to put a note on the door, and when she turned back toward her car, it was on fire: “Everything I owned was in that car. I lost everything except my driver’s license, which was charred and had buckled a bit, but it was still readable. I tried to get my clothes and I tried to throw snow on (the flames) – which doesn’t do anything, if you ever need to know. I have to replace my documents. ... My money went; my little retirement check – money I had just cashed. I think I was in shock for about a week and I didn’t even know it.” Pat became homeless. With no family living in Montana anymore, Pat had no one to turn to for help except the Poverello Center: “It was just nice to have a place to go; you know, I had nothing. Where would I have gone?”

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Amy, 27 Amy grew up on a ranch in western Montana. She has been living in Missoula for seven years. Amy’s struggle with drugs began during her early 20s. She temporarily lost custody of her oldest son, Layne. By the time Amy’s next son, Sawyer, was born, she had fought off her addictions and was reunited with Layne. Amy enrolled in college at the University of Montana to first study culinary arts, and then accounting. While in school, Amy and her family lived in student housing, but when school didn’t work out as Amy had planned, she found herself unable to afford rent and unable to pay bills. She had nowhere to turn. Amy and her family became homeless.

Steve, 37 Originally from Southern California, Steve has been “bouncing through” Missoula for about seven years, usually on his way to visit his father in northwestern Montana. Steve used to make the drive from California (where his mother lived) to Montana in less than three days. He would stop in Missoula to rent a hotel room, shower and rest for a spell. The first time Steve came to the Poverello Center, it was only to take a shower and change into clean clothes. The second time, however, Steve came to the Pov because he had just lost his job as a car mechanic in Kalispell. He was unable to continue working because of the continued pain from a back injury he suffered during his time in the military: “My whole life up until then had revolved around my work. I had no social life what-so-ever. If I wasn’t turning wrenches at the dealership, I was turning wrenches on my own cars. I lost everything (when I had to quit working).” Steve became homeless. At the time his photograph was taken at the Poverello Center, Steve had been living in California, but had come to Missoula after learning his mother had been murdered by her boyfriend: “I just needed to escape and process it all and deal with the mental and psychological effects. I wanted to get a hold of my dad. And it turns out he is currently out of the country. Why I came to the Pov and why I came to Missoula is it’s a whole lot more quiet than other places I’ve been.” Steve left the day after his photograph was taken to go back to California.

Jennifer, 30 The daughter of a logger, Jennifer grew up in Oregon, Idaho and northwestern Montana: “The mountains are my home. The closer I get to the mountains, the better off I am.” Jennifer came to Missoula after losing her job and her home, and in order to escape a verbally and emotionally abusive marriage. With no money and no place to go, Jennifer became homeless. With her five children (ages ranging from 11 to just over a year) staying with relatives in Washington, Jennifer is working on getting her life back together: “(I need) a chance to get myself back on my feet, get the kids home, get the divorce done; get everything done.” Since staying at the Poverello Center, Jennifer has run into a lot of people she knows from her past: old friends and distant relatives. A romantic relationship had recently evolved from a reunion with a longtime male friend: “It’s really odd to run into a lot of these people; I always believe that the Lord’s at work in mysterious ways.”

Ray, 63 Ray grew up in a small farming, ranching and logging community in north-central Idaho. He has spent most of his life working in the mountains as both a horsepacker and guide. He’s also done contract work for the U.S. Forest Service, building bridges and constructing lookouts. At the time this photograph was taken, Ray had been in Missoula staying at the Poverello Center for two months, taking a rest from the mountains and waiting for the snow to melt before moving onto the next job: “(I’m) just passing through.” For Ray, life is about the outdoors, horses and hard work. When asked what it was like working in the mountains Ray explained: “If you’re out there working, you’re out there working. You’re not out there to have fun. Maybe you go fishing sometimes. You got horses to take care of and you only have a certain amount of time to get the work done within the contract. The quicker you can get it done the better.” When asked how long he plans to continue working as a horsepacker and doing work for the Forest Service, Ray replied, ” ’Til I can’t swing my leg over a horse.”

Glenn, 35 Originally from western Colorado, Glenn was “just hitchhiking around, and landed (in Missoula) one time and liked it.” Glenn left home when he was 16 to escape his alcoholic father. After spending time in prison and drifting around for a good part of his life, Glenn admits: “I just haven’t had the motivation to get myself started (until now). It’s sad, but it’s true.”

Dane, 54 Raised in a military family, Dane was born in Florida, but doesn’t consider any particular place home: “I was basically raised transient from Day One. That’s how (military) life is. No roots, no roots anywhere, really.” Dane had visited Missoula several times over the past two years. He had found out “from word-of-mouth” that “the Poverello Center was a really good shelter, and it has turned out to be. One of the better ones, really.” At one point in his life, Dane owned a car shop in El Paso, Texas. He operated the shop for 17 years – the longest he has ever been in one place – until he started having back pain and the call to travel became impossible for him to ignore: “I started selling things off and giving things away, and moved on from there.”

Diana, 66 Originally from western Montana, Diana has spent the majority of her life between Idaho and Montana. She moved to Missoula six years ago, and after renting a room from a male friend didn’t work out, she starting camping outside the city limits. When asked how long she’d been homeless, Diana replied: “I’m not homeless! I’ve got a camp (outside of town). I’ve been living in the camp for five years. I guess if you ask me how long I’ve been homeless: five years – but I’m not homeless!” At the time her photograph was taken, it was January and easily 30 degrees below during the night. Diana had come into the Poverello Center to get out of the cold for a few days, but she prefers to be outside at her camp “with the squirrels and the trees.” She also comes in to the shelter to “sober up” now and then. A self-described alcoholic, Diana admits she likes being sober, but she also likes “being a booze-hound too.” missoula.com magazine

a room with a view By BETSY COHEN Photos by KURT WILSON

ising from the concrete walls of Washington-Grizzly Stadium is the gleaming glass and rippled steel skin of the new eastside expansion. The colossal addition is the first thing that catches the eye as travelers along Interstate 90 emerge from the narrow confines of Hellgate Canyon into Missoula. Reaching 80-some feet skyward, the newly embellished home of University of Montana Grizzly football dominates the horizon. “It’s a real landmark for where the university is at,” said Jim O’Day, UM’s athletic director. Standing on the stadium’s signature skytop terrace, O’Day took in the surrounding views of Mount Jumbo and Mount Sentinel, then looked back into the Grizzlies’ gridiron. He smiled, joy filling his voice and said: “It’s a helluva landmark. We are so lucky to have this.” Nine months in the making, the $5.5 million project was christened on Saturday, Sept. 13, when UM played its home-opener against Southern Utah. Work on the addition had gone nearly round-theclock since the Grizzlies’ 2007 season-ending loss to Wofford. The result: a showplace for the University of Montana and its storied football program. Join us for a tour of the new digs.

n game days, the sound reaches fans even before they can see the new seats. There’s a new $500,000 sound system at Washington-Grizzly Stadium – and 2,000 more Griz fans screaming in new, mostly upscale seats. Specifically, the expansion offers two price choices – for 500 exclusive “club level” seats and 1,500 additional reserve stadium seats. The addition isn’t just about more people, though. It’s a whole new world of bling. What looks like an air traffic control

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A skybox with tinted windows and seating for 130 fans offers an unsurpassed view of the entire playing field and surroundings.

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tower in the middle of the new stadium section is a private viewing area called the Canyon Club. The giant skybox is encased by tinted windows, has indoor seating for 130 and is the hub for another section of 120 outdoors seats. All told, the Canyon Club directly caters to 250 people, offering a wine and beer bar, a kitchen to serve fancy finger food, nine flat-screen televisions, and a room full of tall bistro tables. The deluxe accommodations come with a million-dollar view of the football field and access to an expansive outdoor terrace. For times when fans inside the clubhouse want to hear the noise of the crowd, referee calls and the famous, raucous Boom Crew in the north end zone, a push of a button opens windows to the world below. Such amenities come with a price. At $1,500 per person, these reserved seats are the highest-dollar tickets in the stadium. Surrounding the giant glass room is a large outdoor area, officially called the Hellgate Terrace. This generous sweep of concrete includes a bar and food services for Canyon Club members, and also for 250 people who have purchased $1,000 outdoor season seats and have access to the terrace but not the Canyon Club. All of it – the Canyon Club and Hellgate Terrace – is collectively called the Majestic Plaza, named in honor of the Feist Family Foundation, a Missoula-based organization that donated $1 million to UM’s intercollegiate athletics. The remaining 1,500 reserved seats are tucked into the section below the terrace, north and south of the clubhouse. Because these high-rise seats are essentially fancy bleacher seating, there is a significant amount of open space underneath where a small forest of steel I-beams hold up the structure. This covered area is called the 200level concourse and offers large restrooms, food services and is accessible to all ticket holders. It’s the ideal place to find shelter from bad weather or for fans to stretch their legs, said Jerry Ballas, the stadium project coordinator. “I don’t know how many people this can hold,” he said, “but I think we can fit thousands in here.”

o one is more pleased with the project than Ballas, who was the stadium’s original architect when it was built in 1986.

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The concourse beneath the new seating area offers large restrooms, food services and is accessible to all ticket holders.

“ What looks like an air traffic control tower in the middle of the new stadium section is a private viewing area called the Canyon Club.”

The top levels of the new seating give fans great views of the campus, city and surrounding mountains, in addition to a great view of the game.

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Back then, the state-of-the-art facility cost about $3 million this latest expansion cost more than the original stadium, Ballas said. Stunning, perhaps, but not surprising. Steel and concrete prices have climbed steeply since then, he explained, and while the expansion added just 2,000 seats to the stadium’s 23,000, this project is a technical challenge and introduces new elements such as elevator shafts and a 1,200-square-foot commercial kitchen. Ballas is awed by the fact the project came in close to budget and on time. “I had a $5 million job and we didn’t have over $350,000 in change orders,” he said. “That’s pretty darn good. “If I didn’t have a good contractor and a good architect, this wouldn’t have come together. It went up fast with a minimal amount of labor.” Kudos go out to Quality Construction and OZ Architects, O’Day said, and to a host of other local and state businesses that made the project happen. “They really took pride in their jobs,” he said. “You can see that everywhere you look.” The only significant snafu, ironically, had nothing to do with the construction end of the project, but with the new turf, said Chuck Maes, UM’s assistant athletic director. When it came time to unroll the giant iconic grizzly bear at midfield, everyone stepped back to take a look at the team’s distinctively brawny bruin. The crowning moment for the stadium’s new look didn’t play out as planned: the colors were not the colors of UM’s proud bear. And if that wasn’t bad enough, the teeth were square and flat, as if they had been sawed off. Needless to say, the imposter was sent back where it came from, with orders for a new “true” griz to be shipped and in place for the home opener. “Our bear is a very detailed bear,” Maes said. “Our bear has teeth like a saw.”

Betsy Cohen covers the University of Montana for the Missoulian. She can be reached at (406) 523-5253 or by e-mail at bcohen@missoulian.com. Kurt Wilson is photography and multimedia editor of the Missoulian. He can be reached at (406) 523-5244 or by e-mail at kwilson@missoulian.com.

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“ For times when fans inside the clubhouse want to hear the crowd, a push of a button opens windows to the world below.”

An elevator offers fans easy access to the upper reaches of the addition.

The addition to Washington-Grizzly Stadium includes the Canyon Club, 250 seats that provide both indoor and outdoor seating and are the highest priced tickets in the stadium

University of Montana assistant athletic director Chuck Maes, left, and stadium project manager Jerry Ballas talk on the Hellgate Terrace on the backside of the addition.

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Members of the Coyote Choir join in song during a recent rehearsal. The choir is made up of children 7 to 12 years old.

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Some

thing to

howl about

BETSY COHEN photos by

LINDA THOMPSON

issoula’s Coyote Choir has a lot to yip about these days. As the fall edition of Missoula.com magazine went to press, the boisterous, fun-loving children’s choir was waiting on a few celebrity friends for the final mixing of their first CD. That’s right. These kids have cut a record, and joining them on the debut album – “Ask the Planet” – are bigname artists, such as Bill Harley, Bruce Cockburn, Laura Love and Dar Williams. The 18-track album was co-produced by Missoula’s Amy Martin along with Allison Miller, a professional musician who leads the choir’s backup band, which includes Adam Levy, Julie Wolf and Todd Sickafoos, all of whom play for big-name acts. Heard of Norah Jones? The Indigo Girls? Ani DiFranco? The musicians who bring those stars to light are the same ones who rock the Coyote Choir’s original scores and round out the Missoula children’s ebullient voices. A year ago, the youngsters hardly knew one another or the songs their leader, Amy Martin, wrote for them. But what a difference practice, dedication to a good cause, and a few good connections makes. In the past 12 months, the choir has performed in nearly every local school, gave a standing-room-only show at First Night, and was the opening act for DiFranco’s Missoula concert in July. Come mid-October, their CD will be available in Rockin’ Rudy’s and at www. biomimcryinstitute.org. “It feels really good to come this far,” said 12-year-old Katy Clay. “I’m proud of the fact that somebody gets to hear my voice along with everyone else’s.” Lance Fisher said he doesn’t really know how to describe the choir’s meteoric rise. Never in his 9-year-old life did he

imagine he would record an album – or that it would be alongside some of the biggest names in the music business. “Being on an album? That was one of my very faraway dreams,” Fisher said. “It’s pretty awesome.”

he harmonic convergence of local and international talent wasn’t by happenstance. Rather, it was the result of a unique collaboration that began in Missoula with Martin and the Biomimicry Institute, a Missoula nonprofit that teaches people how to solve problems by learning and mimicking the relevant practices of the natural world. From the jump, their goal was to introduce the concept of biomimicry to children and help them connect to nature, said Bryony Schwan, executive director of the Biomimicry Institute. “The way we try to do things so often is intellectually and that only goes so far,” Schwan said. “I think music really reaches people in the heart.” In 2007, with the institute’s blessing and support, Martin began writing catchy, toe-tapping, shake-your-body children’s songs – like “Keep Your Cool” – that speak to lessons humans can learn from Mother Nature. Biomimicry can be a heady concept, Martin explained, but it doesn’t have to be. Pared down to its essence, it’s about gleaning the wisdom from nature, whose life forms have been learning how to survive on this planet for 3.8 billion years, she said. Humans are newcomers on the timeline, and there’s a thing or two they can learn from other life forms that share our world – such as how to stay cool in extreme heat, how to build homes in turbulent environments, even how to repel water and use sunlight for energy. To be in the choir, each kid had to commit to a weekly practice schedule – and to follow Martin and the Biomimicry

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Institute on a path along which none of them had ever ventured. Although Martin is experienced at recording, she had no background in leading a children’s choir. The choir itself is a diverse group of kids, ages 7 to 12, some of whom had never been in a choir. And the institute, while immensely supportive, knew nothing of producing educational music or music of any kind. Collectively, they moved slowly forward, singing, learning and becoming their own community, working toward a common goal. “One of the things we’ve really focused on is that in a choir everyone’s voice is heard and no one person’s voice dominates, but every voice is unique,” Martin said. “It’s a rich metaphorical terrain for all of us, something we can extend to all parts of our lives – to learn how to express ourselves without drowning out others.”

y early last winter, the time had come for Martin to seek out professional musicians to back up the choir for its CD. Who to ask was a challenge; the project required patience, working with children and belief in the cause. When something is meant to be, though, conundrums are solved easily, and so was the case for the coyote choir’s band. Martin met professional drummer Allison Miller, who was hired to play with Erin McKeown, a folk singer for whom Martin had opened. “When I heard her play, I knew she was the drummer for our project,” Martin said. “When I talked to her about what we were doing and what the project was all about, Allison jumped in right away.” Deeply entwined in the community of freelance musicians who contract with bigname artists, Miller talked to her friends and soon the coyotes had fans – and a band – that includes Adam Levy, a guitarist who plays with Norah Jones; Julie Wolf, a keyboardist for the Indigo Girls; and Todd Sickafoose, who plays for DiFranco. Miller and company came to Missoula at the end of April, and with the choir and recorded for 10 days in a private studio on a ranch in the Blackfoot. By then, DiFranco had asked Miller to be part of her touring band. It was then the folk star learned about the Coyote Choir, and agreed to be the first big name to sing on the choir’s CD. “I think biomimicry is really important,” DiFranco said. “It’s very compelling and very important work and I’m really excited there are folks translating it to kids.” Calling the experience “profound,” Miller said she is honored to be part of the

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choir’s CD. “I’m a big activist and environmentalist, and for me to get the opportunity to combine musical talents and activist pursuits was the perfect scenario,” Miller said. “When I heard the project involved children and was for children – I was sold.” “Biomimicry is a brilliant concept,” she said, “and I really feel it is important for us to educate children. They are the next generation, they are the ones we stuck the damage with and the ones who will make a difference.” Working with the coyotes has been unlike anyone or anything else. “They are all great musicians,” she said. “They’re enthusiastic, they worked really hard, they were really fun to be around – and the songs are great.”

he making of the album was a thing to behold, and something Schwan never originally envisioned in her role as executive director of the Biomimcry Institute. “For me, it was an amazing process to watch these musicians take Amy’s music and put their special artistic touch on it all, and how they would record a track and talk about it,” she said. “It was like watching a group paint a mural together, each adding their own flavor and touch to it, interpreting each piece.” As the days passed during the intensive recording sessions, the bond between band and choir strengthened, adding an unexpected depth to the album’s sound. “To hear these nationally renowned musicians and the kids play together, to see how these musicians were so moved by these kids was incredible,” Schwan said. “There was barely a dry eye in the room; it was that wonderful.” Once the album is out, the Biomimicry Institute will repackage its message so it can be used as part of schoolroom curriculum, Schwan said. “We will create a tremendous interactive Web site for this, and we will be encouraging classes to adopt and study their own inspiring organisms,” she said. Curriculum will be developed for each song, with the idea that teachers and

students will write new verses for each song. “Introducing new ideas and creating curriculum changes within the public education system is particularly challenging under No Child Left Behind,” Schwan said. “We believe that using music with accompanying curricula modules is a promising attempt to instill a vibrant alternative learning model into traditional elementary school curriculum. “We hope this builds over time – that this is the seed that flourishes and gets the concept of biomimcry out there.” Schwan is among the legion of choir parents eagerly awaiting the album’s arrival. She’s heard the rough cuts and is thrilled. “Out of all the projects I’ve worked on in my career, this is the most amazing, the most inspiring and heartwarming project I have ever worked on,” Schwan said. “I would do it again – in a heartbeat.”

s for the coyotes, they continue to practice, adding new members this season and working on new songs. Martin is branching out, growing a community music center for children and adults. The goal to give as many people as possible the chance to participate in music. Like most authentic artists, the coyotes are pretty humble about their achievements. “It’s been a really good experience,” said Rosie Cerquone, 10. “It has been really fun.” “I’ve met a lot of nice people,” said Grace Slayden, 9. “I love the songs,” 12-year-old Katy Clay chimed in. “If you get past the music and look at the words, they tell a story of what we can do for the Earth. “I like that a lot.”

Betsy Cohen is a reporter for the Missoulian. She can be reached at (406) 523-5253 or by e-mail at bcohen@missoulian.com. Linda Thompson is a Missoulian photographer. Reach her at (406) 523-5270 or by e-mail at lthompson@missoulian.com.

Top Photo: Toward the end of choir practice, the Coyotes circle up for a final goodbye song and group howl. Left Top Photo: Amy Martin, choir director, claps along with members of the Coyote Choir as they learn a new song. Left Bottom Photo: “One of the things we’ve really focused on is that in a choir everyone’s voice is heard and no one person’s voice dominates, but every voice is unique,” says Amy Martin. Right Photo: Ari Aagaard-Shively ,10, rehearses a song during a recent practice. missoula.com magazine

western montana getaway

A chance to see wildlife provides another enticement to get out and enjoy fall.

Autumn in western Montana brings timeless beauty by michael jamison photos by tom bauer

ALISPELL – Think fall colors and you probably imagine picture-postcard New England views, scenes awash in an endless sea of fabled hardwood forest, trees burning bright in autumn’s soft-slanted light. But Montana, believe it or not, can and often does rival those wildly colorful vistas. You just have to know how to look. Look down, for instance, to find the remarkably rich reds of wild strawberry leaves, a riotous splash of purple royalty carpeting quiet trails. Look closely, come early October, for the tint of serviceberry drenched in merlot, the wild rose of wild roses. Beneath darkened evergreens a rich palette paints the landscape – fireweed and cinquefoil, huckleberry, bunchberry, dogwood, mountain ash – all dressed in a bright autumnal wardrobe. It’s easy to miss, if you don’t know how to look. Or, for that matter, where to look. A fine place to begin the search is on a grand circuit of Montana’s public lands, up through the Kootenai National Forest, across into the Flathead, over toward

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Glacier National Park, then down into the Lolo and finally the Bitterroot. You can make the whole trip, if you have a week or so, or just drop in for a bit here and there. You can take days to drive and walk these autumnal woods, or you can pack it all into a Sunday picnic basket. “We tend to take this place for granted,” said Denise Germann, who works on the Flathead National Forest. “Fall colors are a good time to get out and remind yourself of what a cool place we live in.”

ne of the coolest places almost isn’t in Montana. Far to the north and far to the west, almost to Canada and nearly to Idaho, the Yaak River Road breaks off of U.S. Highway 2 and follows riparian twists and turns through a fall fantasyland. It is the start of the grand circuit. On a clear day, the Yaak River shines brilliant blue, frothing finally as you approach tremendous waterfalls not far above Troy. Stop there, and soak up the mist. It makes you younger. Then the Dirty Shame Saloon for lunch, the brushy bottoms around Yaak. Snow-white snowberries, rosehips

Fall colors in Montana are often brightest close to the ground, where red,

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Flathead National Forest roads that loop Hungry Horse Reservoir. “That is a beautiful drive,” Germann said, “with the water and the colors and the picnic spots.” Just head out of Hungry Horse, south over top the massive concrete dam, and on up the reservoir. The west-side road is smoother, the east-side more scenic. And on both sides, “all those bushy reds and golds,” Germann said, alder and birch and cottonwood and larch. Stop where you please – every quiet bay has a campground from which to launch a water’s-edge search for fall color. “Go to the water,” Germann advises. “That visual is just absolutely impressive, especially this time of year.” Take a blanket, she said, and find a rock or a log for a picnic perch, “just take in that spectacular scenery.” Look for bright yellow patches of larch across the water – what you’re seeing is the path of long-gone wildfires, which torched away the competition and allowed sunloving larch to take hold. The view is a time machine. And up each watery creek drainage

tracks a narrow path of mountain maple and mountain ash, serviceberry, willow, a colorful deciduous ribbon winding up into dark evergreen forests. You can make the whole loop, Germann said, up to Spotted Bear and back, or turn around early and head south, into the Seeley-Swan. U.S. Highway 83 runs through that country, through the Lolo National Forest where “the fall colors will be outstanding, with the reds and yellows and the western larch turning.” So said Sharon Sweeney, who works and lives on the Lolo. From Bigfork to Clearwater Junction, she said, “we just have a tremendous amount of larch, and it turns beautiful colors.” Not far from the divide that separates the Swan from the Seeley is scenic Holland Lake, home to the trailhead leading up Holland Falls. It’s a short walk, and easy, and the Lolo’s silvaculturist Lisa Blackburn promises lots of color along the way. She also recommends the circuit around Clearwater Lake, up near the divide, where colorful avalanche chutes climb to snowy peaks, all ringed below by a

ut don’t wait. “When the larch are golden, they are very fragile,” Blackburn warned. “It can’t last. The first front that blows through after they turn just brings them all down.” No matter. The canopy has simply become carpet, reflecting soft autumn light back up. “It’s a very brief time,” she said. “I think that’s what makes it all the more

celebrating this moment, self acceptance and self expression. It’s about only looking back with gratitude and living in joy.

riot of riparian hues. Or hike up to Morrell Falls, she said, just north of Seeley Lake, for a gentle walk to stunning fall scenery, water cascading down stepping-stones to white-topped riffles below. Back on the main road, the route south is a necklace of gems, lakes strung by shining rivers, the Swan Range to the east, the Missions to the west, red-yellow larch over it all. “The colors there are just spectacular,” Sweeney said.

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On The Fly ...continued from page 17 fly and presented them to me. A couple of weeks later, during a mayfly hatch at Georgetown Lake, they proved to be absolutely deadly. The second interview took place in 2001 at a retirement and assisted-living home in Missoula. Three years after being diagnosed with ALS, LaFontaine was wheelchair-bound and virtually immobilized by the malady. Even so, he still seemed like the same human dynamo. He was continuing his work, dictating to two secretaries the contents of a new book, plus his popular newsletter/catalog, “The Book Mailer.” He was still active in operating his publishing company, Greycliff Publishing in Helena. And he was still teaching people how to flyfish and tie flies, with the owner/operators of the assisted-living home – Loren and Daphne Harris-Musack – as his enthusiastic pupils. My second interview with LaFontaine was no less animated than our first one, six years earlier, his mind loping off in various trajectories, as he talked about continuing his work – his writing. “And I want to keep doing that,” he told me. “Making people laugh and enjoy themselves, and helping them catch more fish and have a lot of fun. Fear of dying isn’t what bothers me. There’s no sense fearing the inevitable. But it bothers me because I have these unfinished things. It would have been so much more convenient to get ALS 10 years from now. I’ve got work to do. I’ve got books I need to write.” As in our first interview, the conversation soon led us to the fly-tying bench, where he gave lessons verbally to Loren and Daphne. With LaFontaine providing precise instructions, Daphne tied a gorgeous, wildly colorful streamer, not quite like any existing pattern. They presented it to me upon finishing. “Let me know how it works,” LaFontaine said. I never got the chance. He died the next year. I still treasure that fly. And I’ve still got his books. But like the rest of the world’s flyfishers, I miss the anticipation of finding out what ingenious fly-fishing innovation LaFontaine might come up with next. And I miss his colorful writing. And his infectious, indomitable spirit. Daryl Gadbow is a former Missoulian reporter, now a free-lance writer and full-time fly-fisherman.

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Know Your Vino ...continued from page 19 of fertilizer that also acts as a pest killer. This concoction is then tilled into the land during a specific time of year in accordance with the alignment of the moon, planets and stars. To be honest, I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly understand the science behind it all. To me, it sounds like a tarot card reading with yoga exercises for the vines more than anything. But if winemakers continue to use these methods and create good quality wines as a result, it will be interesting and more applicable for us as consumers to understand at least the basics. However, a cursory look at this branch of agriculture suggests that gaining a greater understanding of Steinerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s approach could be challenging, as many of the wineries currently practicing biodynamic techniques donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bother with certification â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just too grueling and expensive. What seems to be the missing link with all these practices is the dissemination of information. Considering todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vastly growing market for anything eco-friendly, green or organic, it can be difficult to separate those who are authentically organic or using green practices from those who are not. Organic, sustainable and biodynamic techniques will continue to define themselves in the wine industry, and it will be up to us as consumers to research, experiment and hold our winemakers and farmers accountable for meeting our needs and being conscientious stewards of the land. In the meantime, as we continue to sport our hemp clothing, ride our bikes to work and sleep on bamboo fiber sheets, we can also drink more wine in the name of research! It is certainly a noble mission to discover more about the nuances of organic viticulture as we enjoy a glass or two. And wine drinkers who are interested in how wine is made and what theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re putting in their body can take this opportunity to learn more about the producer and the practices involved. After all, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the integrity of the winemaker that matters more than any certification process or label on the bottle. Kate Murphy is a wine writer for the Missoulian and art director of Missoula.com magazine. She can be reached at (406) 523-0486 or by e-mail at kate.murphy@missoulian.com. Missoulian photographer Linda Thompson can be reached at (406) 523-5270 or by e-mail at lthompson@missoulian.com.

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And Your Beer ...continued from page 21 is Huckleberry ’N’ Honey, a super-light wheat-based ale with a hint of huckleberry on the nose and palate. It’s Montana in a bottle. But it’s the dark side of the brewery’s lineup of beers that offers a unique, off-thehook, backcountry Montana adventure a little west of nowhere. Take the brewery’s relatively new Fish On! Summer Ale, a classic American pale ale chewy with the delicious flavors imparted by the Centennial, Liberty and Cascade hops. We’re talking a grapefruity, piney, bright-as-daylight pale ale low enough in alcohol to keep your head in the game, but flavorful enough to fool you. And as summer gives way to fall’s crisp air and early twilight, some go easily into that new season, while some go kicking and screaming. Lang Creek Brewing Co.’s Zeppelin

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The brewery was started in 1995, when what was once a remote airplane hangar became a brewery.

Imperial Pilsner is the tonic that will help settle your seasonal restlessness. Not a true pilsner, Zeppelin is brewed with pilsner malts, and Tettnang, Saaz and Magnum hops. Sounds like a pilsner, looks like a pilsner, must be a pilsner. But, alas, Zeppelin is brewed using an ale yeast, which imparts a more full-bodied taste to the otherwise pilsnered complexion of this fine brew. This beer is light enough to transition from T-shirt weather to sweater weather, with a hint of alcohol heat and the richness that comes with a beer that is 7.7 percent alcohol by volume. The complexity of this beer lends itself to pairing with food. Hard-rind cheeses are best buddies, while grilled meats, game stews and even hearty salads stand up to this gigantic brew. And as the season eventually falls to

winter’s icy grip, despair is held at bay by the frothy, chocolatey, coffee flavors in the brewery’s Stealth Stout. This dry finishing, dark chocolate and roasted coffee bean of stout sticks to the roof of your mouth and washes its warming liquor through your insides like sunrays on a cold day. And that is not the least of the brewery’s seasonal selection; several porters, a London Ale, an American-style Hefeweizen and an English-style IPA round out the brewery’s selection of beers.

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Western Montana Getaway ...continued from page 59 special.” Special from end to end, she said, “the whole way, all the way,” straight south to Clearwater, then to Missoula and into the Bitterroot. “Just head south on Highway 93 – which is pretty in itself – and then turn up the West Fork Road.” That’s the advice of Sue Mcmeeken, who works on the Bitterroot as a silvaculturist. Head to Connor out of Darby, she said, then up the West Fork toward 6,589-foot Nez Perce Pass. “It’s a valley-bottom road,” Mcmeeken said, “so you’re going to see both the cottonwoods and the aspen. If you’re lucky, you’ll see a moose, too.” You can stop at Fales Flat campground, she said, or break away from the main road to Painted Rocks Lake. Or you can push onward and upward, all the way to the pass, essentially the junction of the Frank Church and Selway-Biterroot wilderness areas. “There are lots of hikes,” she said, “and you can go as far as you want.” Or not. It’s up to you. “It’s pretty country,” Mcmeeken promised, “and when the colors are out, it’s a great day-drive from Missoula.“ Mostly paved, she said, with a few sections of packed gravel – “easy driving. It’s a riparian drive, which is why it’s so beautiful in the fall. And there are some spectacular views up on Nez Perce Pass.” Beautiful. Spectacular. Tremendous. Those are the words used by the folks who know – know that New England’s paisley autumnal cloak has nothing on Montana, so long as you know how to look, and where. And if you’re a little early, or a little late, to catch the larch and the mountain maple at their peak, well, no matter. You’re sure to find other wonders on this grand circuit, unexpected treasures the price for which is nothing more than an open mind and open eyes. It is precisely as Germann said: “We tend to take this place for granted. Fall colors are a good time to get out and remind yourself of what a cool place we live in.” Michael Jamison covers the Flathead Valley and northwestern Montana for the Missoulian. He can be reached at 1-800-366-7186 or by e-mail at mjamison@ missoulian.com.

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