THE HULA SHRIMP

TheHula Shrimp Shrimp TheHula Shrimp by Terry Baird

The Hula Series grew out of my observing the actions of diamond jigs while ice fishing in Bear Lake, Utah, in the diamond jigs while ice fishing in Bear Lake, Utah, in the early 1980s. Fishing these small spoon-like jigs vertically early 1980s. Fishing these small spoon-like jigs vertically down to nearly 50 feet, I was amazed at how much down to nearly 50 feet, I was amazed at how much action they had. Some would circle while swimming with action they had. Some would circle while swimming with a wiggling action on the drop, while others would shake a wiggling action on the drop, while others would shake and dart on the retrieve. There was continuous inherent and dart on the retrieve. There was continuous inherent action of the lure itself! action of the lure itself! Being an avid fly angler, I knew I had to try to develop Being an avid fly angler, I knew I had to try to develop a tying method that would recreate the same selfa tying method that would recreate the same selfswimming action. Testing early prototypes in buckets, swimming action. Testing early prototypes in buckets, sinks, and bathtubs, I could see a wide range of sinks, and bathtubs, I could see a wide range of possibilities. Simple changes in design affected the possibilities. Simple changes in design affected the water flow or resistance, effectively altering the action water flow or resistance, effectively altering the action of the fly. Varying the size of the metal bead chain (or of the fly. Varying the size of the metal bead chain (or substituting them with lead dumbbells), the size and substituting them with lead dumbbells), the size and number of plastic beads; the hook gauge, gape, or length number of plastic beads; the hook gauge, gape, or length of the shank; or the tail or winging materials all altered of the shank; or the tail or winging materials all altered the fly’s action. the fly’s action. Hula versions of a number of classic fly patterns, including Bob Nauheim’s Crazy Charlie, Winston Moore’s Agent Orange, and Chico Fernandez’s Bonefish Special. I’ve used Hula variations successfully in ultra-thin water for bonefish, in the West Coast surf for corbina, and in deep water with sinking lines for tuna. In fresh water, Hula flies have caught trout and panfish, largemouth and smallmouth bass, and landlocked stripers, to name only a few species. Salt water or fresh, surface to 50 feet or deeper, trout to tarpon to giant trevally—your specific angling needs will dictate the wonderful Hula variations you’ll create. And to think it all started by fishing through a hole in the ice!

Varying the basic design has allowed me to imitate such diverse food items as shrimps, minnows, crabs, palolo worms, inch-long bobtail squid, as well as freshwater nymphs and leeches. I’ve also created Hula versions of a number of classic fly patterns, including Bob Nauheim’s Crazy Charlie, Winston Moore’s Agent Orange, and Chico Fernandez’s Bonefish Special. I’ve used Hula variations successfully in ultra-thin water for bonefish, in the West Coast surf for corbina, and in deep water with sinking lines for tuna. In fresh water, Hula flies have caught trout and panfish, largemouth and smallmouth bass, and landlocked stripers, to name only a few species. Salt water or fresh, surface to 50 feet or deeper, trout to tarpon to giant trevally—your specific angling needs will dictate the wonderful Hula variations you’ll create. And to think it all started by fishing through a hole in the ice!

The self-described “original dirt bag,” Terry Baird has been fly fishing in salt water since the 1970s. His innovative flies have appeared in pattern books by Lefty Kreh and Dick Brown, among others. Terry has set five IGFA World Records. His 2-pound tippet record for cutthroat trout (8 pounds, 9 ounces), set in 1987 in Pyramid Lake, Nevada, remains unbroken. Terry lives on the island of Maui, where he stalks outsized bonefish with ultralight tippets.

Materials

Hook: Gamakatsu SL11-3H, size 4 Thread: Clear monofilament Bead Chain: Medium silver bead chain tied in behind hook eye Beads: 3-millimeter pearl plastic strung beads (available in craft stores) Flash: Two strands orange Krystal Flash (to suggest antennae) Tail: Orange rabbit tied into the bend of the hook Braid: Single strand of pearl braid (such as Bill’s Bodi-Braid) Body Wrapping: Single strand of wide pearl Flashabou

Coloration: Sharpie or other markers Finish Coat: Loon Hard Head Clear or similar water-based cement

Step 1. Attach the monofilament thread to the hook and fasten the bead chain eyes using cross wraps.

Step 2. Tie a quarter-inch-long tuft of rabbit fur into the bend of the hook. Flank each side of the tail with a single strand of Krystal Flash (the flash should be more than twice the length of the rabbit). Next, tie in at the bend of the hook the strand of pearl braid as well as the strand of Flashabou.

Step 3. Tie in the first section of four plastic beads, fastening the string just behind the hook eye on the far side of the hook. Wrap the mono thread loosely around the shank and between each bead, securing the beads to the far side of the hook shank (wrapping loosely will allow you to adjust the beads on the finished fly). Work front to back, securing the exposed string at the bend of the hook. Trim any excess string at both tie-in points.

Step 4. Work the mono thread forward between each bead and secure the second strand of plastic beads in the same manner to the near side of the shank.

Step 5. Wrap the strand of Flashabou forward between each set of beads all the way to the eye of the hook and back to the bend. Tie the Flashabou off and trim any excess.

Step 6. Pull the strand of pearl braid over the top of the fly and secure it with the mono thread, wrapping forward between each set of beads. Tie the braid off behind the hook eye and finish the head with a whip finish. Here you may choose to use a Sharpie or other marker to color along the pearl braid to suggest the shrimp’s segmented appearance.

Step 7. Remove the hook from the vise and place the fly hook-point-up on a flat hard surface (such as your tying table). Press down on the fly, rocking it back and forth. Since the beads were tied in loosely, they’ll widen outward from the shank, producing a flat surface to the underside of the fly (that is, the side with the pearl braid) and a curving arch to the line of beads.

Step 8. Finish the fly with a coating of Loon Hard Head or a similar water-based fly finish over the entire body and head of the fly. When the coating dries, use a black Sharpie to mark the rearmost two beads to suggest eyes, and then give the entire fly a second coat.