Harry Styles' Gender Fluid Fashion by Tako Natsvlishvili

HARRY STYLES’ GENDER FLUID FA S H I O N

HARRY STYLE’S GENDER FLUID FASHION POP MUSIC AS A GENDER

CWK 1 Fashion Culture Subject: Fashion in Cinema & Music Teacher: Marco Mucig By Tamara Natsvlishvili, Level 6A Fashion Marketing & Communication 2020/21

Introduction

Career Timeline

Music Breaking Gender Binary

Pop Music For Gender Quuer Dialogue

Harry Styles’ Gender-Neutral Fashion

Conclusion

- Harry Styles

35 Bibliography

index

“When you take away 'There's clothes for men and there's clothes for women,' once you remove any barriers, obviously you open up the arena in which you can play”

INTRODUCTION 6

It is merely hard to describe what gender binary means exactly however it has been a matter of discussion for centuries. Duties have been divided for female and male members of the society for the entirety. But in real life, who decided what is for men and what is for women? Who decided what men can wear? Who divided jobs into female and male? The answer would be no one in particular, but the society as a whole. From ancient times there has been a distinguishing between female and male roles in society. Women mostly were not allowed to do much of the things that men were. So, the labelling according to the gender has always been a real problem fro put society. Even in 19th century of the Europe women were solely prone to get pregnant and give heirs to their male partners. This of course has been spread to Americas after the colonization of the continent. Gender non equality has always been a real things, and not even in 21st century it is set equal. The labelling and division between female and male has led to particular nonexistence of gender binary in previous centuries. However, there have been some exceptions and these exceptions have always came from music industry. The essay will discuss correlation between pop music and gender fluidity, how it has jump started the topic. The discussion will be addressed to how a pop music, or a music industry as a whole can change the positioning of gender queer dialogue. It is very interesting how singers were the ones who would initiated this massive change in the society’s mind set. “Pop star Harry Styles proves to be influential member of gender-fluid fashion and pop music culture with most valuable assets in cultivating his boundary-pushing looks. However, he is not the first one and there can be much more than just a man in a dress.” – This thesis statement summarizes the concept behind this essay. As a modern example, the paper’ will address to Harry Styles as a pop star defining modern gender fluidity and that there should be no gender division for jobs and for clothes. However, other artists will be addressed since there have been more revolutionary moments in pop music culture before Harry Style. The question is what gender fluidity is at the end of the day and how pop culture has addressed it so far. It is not about the gender, but about the person which lives inside us.

2012

Styles auditioned as a solo contestant for the British televised singing competition The X Factor. He got added into the One Direction Group by Simon Cowell.

2017

2016 Styles cut his signature long hair, and was featured in Another Man magazine. Styles won the British Style Award at the 2013 Fashion Awards. fashion designer Michael Kors deemed him “the modern embodiment of British rocker style: edgy, flamboyant and worn with unapologetic swagger.

2019

2018 Styles has shown support for the LGBT community by waving a rainbow flag onstage, wearing LGBTthemed clothing and supporting LGBT fans in concerts. In 2018, his online store sold t-shirts with the slogan “Treat People With Kindness” in a rainbow print for Pride Month, with profits benefiting GLSEN

2020 Styles received the Favorite Pop/ Rock Album for Fine Line at the 48th American Music Awards. Styles became the first man to appear solo in a drees on the cover of Vogue, for its December issue.This gender-neutral appearance made variety to argue whether it was revolutionary or not.

C A R E E R T I M E L I N E

At 23 , Harry goes solo.he releases his debut sing ‘Sign of the Times’. whereupon it debuted at number one in several countries, including Australia, the UK and the US. The record was influenced by 1970s soft rock and was described as a “classic cocktail of psychedelia, Britpop, and balladry”.

At 18 years old Harry finishes uo his first world tour. One Direction wins their BRIT. Their single ‘live while we’re young’ is released as the first single of their Album

2010

Styles began wearing sweater vests, baggy high-waisted pants and a pearl necklace in 2019, which prompted Jacob Gallagher of The Wall Street Journal to call him the “popularizer of the manly pearl necklace.” For public appearances, he has incorporated a selection of Saint Laurent, Burberry and Gucci, appearing in a number of campaigns for the latter. Releases second album Fine Line. The cover of the Album and also the song lyrics highlights artist’s gender-fluid attitude

M U S I C I N D U S T RY

Gender inequality has been present in our society since the actual birth of our consciousness. From ancient Greeks or Romans till the modern era there are many jobs or many activities that are being distinguished gender vise. We can take an example of 19th century Europe, were women solely were “made for” giving heirs to kings and other men and had no other meanings. No free will to choose who to become or what to wear. Even the colonization of Americas has shown that colonists only searched a fertility in women and that they have spread it to another continent as well (Geffen Sasha, 2020). However, there is light at the end of the tunnel, and we can discuss the theory that pop industry has broken this gender fluidity taboo for as long as it has existed or the music industry as a whole. This goes back to the Italy hundreds of years ago where the third gender has been created just for the musical purposes. Castrati singers has sung in third voice, not female nor male, and being castrated from childhood two sing both soprano and baritone voice (Geffen, 2020). Furthermore, another example of music industry destroying gender binary is Drag queen Julian Eltinge, which performed drag shows in early decades of 20th century in USA, when it was still illegal. Freddie Mercury also made Drag Queen appearance on his music video “I want to break free” and also on concerts. A Bristol-based MC Kathika clearly identifies the modern problems with music and gender inequality, where often female MCs or DJs are represented and announced with gender distinction coming before the actual profession. But, actually why do we need to inform audience about his/her gender, as it would really change nothing in the music. Music is for everyone, as are other profession, and labelling the people by their gender is just insensible.

B R E A K I N G G E N D E R B I NA RY As was once said by Both Matthews women gave been excluded from the history and to make feminism mark on the modern era they should be included in it. Therefore, the gender non-binary as well as female singers and artists should make often appearance to mark themselves in the history that will eventually become a regularity (NPR, 2018). Gender equity and non-binary is important aspect which we should embrace and try to elaborate in our history. There are a lot of good art works by transgender people that would improve society and its vision as a while but only because they have been negatively labelled by gender these works simply are not recognized. That imposes a threat of loss for not only the author but for the society as well. Who knows how important a piece can be for a societal development if not yet presented. Not all art works have been tested before published, no one ever really knows how important a piece can be, and by just ignoring it because of the gender purposes, of the author, it is not only insensible but also costly for society. In addition, we can assume how music industry as off today can help to brake such taboos of the society. We can clearly see how influential social media can be how one tweet or one post can change a vision of society about a product or the person. The society is utterly hypnotized by social media channels, both stating some false and some true information. Music industry is highly correlated with social media nowadays. Showbiz, pop industry, celebrities they all have significant influence over how society thinks and sees things. Social media, via music industry characters, can be used as a tool to change the attitude about the gender. Change the way people differ things according to gender, the attitude they have towards gender binary artists and to finally make sure that gender is not something that defines your work, your career, your looks or your ability.

Drag queen Julian Eltinge 20th century in USA Drag queen Julian Eltinge 20th century in USA

Frieddie Mercury, ‘I want to break free ‘ music video, 1984

POP MUSIC FOR GENDER QUEER DIALOGUE Pop music and the music industry as a whole has always been the pioneer in promoting gender queer activities, singers and performers. Everybody loves or likes David Bowie, but have you seen him in a dress? Some may refuse as their consciousness may prompt that it is impossible as they do not remember Bowie being gender queer, but you set the standard that men should not wear dresses, or the man who wears the dress should be definitely a gender queer. A genius like Bowie wearing something that is not entirely acceptable for the society is were the first ice breaks, and that is the light at the end of the tunnel for the gender queer artists, who wish to be judged by their talent not their gender. However, as always, there is one consideration. For example take Miley Cyrus, who often wears male clothes and widely talks about bisexuality. She might even be sexy for someone, sexier, more open to different relationships. At the end of the day she still is female and she can be labeled and people like that. However, a drag queen or any transgender or no binary is not always as accepted as Miley, because it is difficult to label them with gender labels. This might not seem a problem at the beginning but if we elaborate on this hypothesis we can see that the sexual openness is only acceptable if at the end of the day you can still be labelled by female or male. This is one of the gaps of gender fluidity which should be eliminated sooner in the modern era, and that no even music or movie industry could have filled in yet.

Pop culture and industry has begun to clearly underline the fact that the definition of gender is not something that has to do with their ability and talent. Few of these artist are Shamir, Miley Cyrus, Grimes, Anjimile and Angel Haze. Shamir stated that there is no need to define an artist by him or her and it is no one’s business and that should be irrelevant. Grimes states more about being female and its struggles, which can be present for most of the females even in modern era. I would definitely agree with her being irritated by offering help just because a female is not capable of doing some things men are. Anjimile refuses at all to use gender pronounce her and him. These are few of the artist who refuse to be labeled, and as you can see it is not necessarily homosexuality or transgender people that has a correlation with the gender non binary. The labelling is unacceptable for artists no matter their sexuality, their race or religion or gender itself. It is important to see people going against defining people by their gender and just restricting them from some activities just because they have not the desirable gender for most people.. We still live in the world with patriarchy and stating female artist or female lawyer or female banker – “female” might somehow be a pronoun for a non-superior individual. This followed by the same attitude towards gender fluid people who “does not have a gender at all”. People like to label things and they find it particularly difficult to understand someone who has not yet been labeled. But in reality that is just an illusion. Music industry, including pop music, is helping to put the marks of gender fluidity in the history, and as it goes to the history it will be with us forever and become a normality gradually. The people in pop music have influence over society and those stating positive attitude towards the subject might help to normalize it faster and spread the positive word.

2019, Miley Cyrus in Rupaul’s Drag show

Angel Haze In Hedonist Magazine by Alexis Chabala, 2017

David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust in a striped baloon jumpsuit by Kansai Yamamoto

16 17

Harry styles, a pop icon, wearing ruffled shirt on Met Gala also has been the changing point in the gender fluid fashion, proving that there is no gender for fashion and that anyone can wear whatever they like and feel comfortable in. Gender fluid clothes has been a trend of pop stars in 80’s and 90’s and they could have worn it because they were the celebs. But the 21st century has shown that anyone can do so. Nowadays the trend has been initiated by the customers itself and has stopped to be a dare game for celebs. The perfect development for this pathway would be fashion being dictated by the mood not by the gender. Prince appearance in black bikinis on the stage in LA was not accepted at first by the society but nowadays we seem him as the one of the pioneers of gender fluid fashions and the star to look at to.

Prince at Ritz New York in 1981

Not only Sam Smith has changed the course of the music industry into the gender fluidity but also many male celebs which has pushed the genderless fashion trends. As Kurt Hummel said ‘Fashion has no gender’. Genderless fashion has been the hot topic of 221st century especially from 2015. We have seen H&M genderless line, the unisex collection. This was followed, by many similar collections from different designers. However, it would be unfair if we would say that genderless fashion has been acknowledged in 21st century, when we have David Bowie in Comme des Garcons jumpsuit and platform heels before. Besides Bowie, there have been Elton John, Freddie Mercury and Iggy Pop. He stood as an icon for young LGBTQ+ folk trying to survive in a homophobic/transphobic society.

David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust in a striped baloon jumpsuit by Kansai Yamamoto

One of the greatest example on this matter can be a very famous singer Sam Smith. Sam Smith has been a beloved singer for most of the listeners and has won many awards for his exquisite performances and creations. Him being gay has been accepted by the society as a normal fact as being gay nowadays has been normalized, though might have went same difficult path as the gender fluidity nowadays. Homosexuality has not been normalized until few decades earlier in the developed countries, and still is not in some developing ones. This fact gives the hope that gender fluidity will go through the same path and be accepted by vast majority soon. Smith came as a non-binary in 2017 and even though he is accepted by the society and beloved by fans, he still was very scared by the coming out. They stated that they now feels free and has found their true self. They refuse to be labeled as he/she. Even for a celebrity like Sam Smith it has been difficult to change the pronoun, but if they can do it, others can do it too, with their help.

It is noteworthy to also mention Ciara which has questioned the gender norms in 2007 about how being a boy is different from being a girl. The song carries a strong message about the gender inequality by that time. All the examples above show that music industry has been trying to break gender binary attitude towards people and clothes for decades now. The attempts have been quite successful and are always worthy. The gender fluidity and the real meaning of the gender is starting to spread roots in the society’s mindset and soon will be a normalized standard to be a gender fluid. Pop music industry with the while music industry has changed the view about gender and the real meaning of gender queerness. There is no gender to fashion, nor to the music or any form of art. Thanks to legendary pop artists this has been an issue for a long now and gives a hope for better continuation for the future generation. I might state that the power of influence and the power of information has been effectively and wisely used by pop starts to introduce gender fluidity in our society. Elton John inside his London home, 1973. by Terry O'Neill

19 David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust in a striped baloon jumpsuit by Kansai Yamamoto

‘I’m not ashamed to dress like a woman because I don’t think it’s shameful to be a woman.’ - Iggy Poppy

American Vogue 2020 photographed by Tyler Mitchell

20 21

H A R R Y S T Y L E S ’ G E N D E R - N E U T R A L FA S H I O N

Harry Styles might be considered as the love object for many female and male fans, especially young girls, but he is very comfortable with gender fluid fashion. What I am trying to connect here is that even him being loved and admired by so many girls, he is still fond of dresses and tights. Fashion does not defines one’s gender or sexual interests. At the end of the day, why would we judge someone wearing a dress like Styles, when a checked skirt has been worn by Scottish males forever and has never been considered any less ‘manly man clothing’. So, it is all about how we look at things. Our mindset.

“It’s pretty powerful and kind of extraordinary to see someone in his position redefining what it can mean to be a man with confidence,” - says Olivia Wilde

American Vogue 2020 photographed by Tyler Mitchell

Harry Styles has been the first Solo man who has been on a cover of US Vogue. The very famous cover included Styles with Gucci gowns, boots and a blazer. Styles defines fashion as gender fluid and states that both women and male clothes are beautiful to him. Harry Styles has worn pearl earrings on Met Gala, heel shoes and manicured nails, which all should represent a female artist, but this is the exact revelation of gender fluid fashion. This controversial photoshoot has been commented as ‘Bring a manly man back’, but I would pose a question mark there, as what does really manly man means. How is the measurement of how manly the one can be? And on what scale do you measure this to be acceptable for society? Harry Styles has been listed in many different influential lists of last 2-3 years, clearly underling his influence over society both singer vise and personality vise. He has a huge fandom and is one of the most gossiped pop star currently. If we could look on his photoshoot with another perspective we could have seen a pop star, an influencer, braking the frames, the borders and stating that gender has nothing to do with things that define us. Labeling by gender should not define artist and should not neglect his/her talent. Harry Styles has totally changed the view of non-binary fashion and proved that even the ‘manly man’ can wear dresses and feel absolutely normal and comfortable.

Wilde states Styles as the one who has been destroying toxic masculinity in our society which objectively seems fairs and true. Harry Styles gender fluid fashion can be very revolutionary and can be very supportive to someone who wants to be truly themselves and are not still sure how to define it. It is very interesting that Styles does not objectify to the existence of the gender female and male but rather states that the gender is borderless and there are no limits to how you define the gender. Gender is just a societal expectation how women and men should behave which was set by society, but does not fit to everyone. Gender division is not the option today, rather the option is mood and your choice, what you feel comfortable in. every men should have his feminine side and vice versa.

If we go deeper in this matter we can also remember that even our zodiac signs give us what percentage of our character is feminine and masculine. Everyone, every single one, no matter the gender has its masculine and feminine side, even set by astrology and the very date and time of the birth. It is noteworthy how Style presents that there is no need to explain someone your choices and there should be blurred lines between gender-biased activities. There is no specific activities we should do or specific way we should act according to our sex or gender. And it is wonderful how this young man collects all important thoughts for this matter and turns them into a beautiful dress, wearing on the cover of the most influential magazine without hesitation. Furthermore, this pop icon of gender fluidity is a feminists that also states he respects all genders equally, no matter being or not being one of them. It could have been otherwise. Someone embracing his feminine side as much as his masculinity could have had different thought. Styles not only blurred the borders himself but also caused a domino effect. After his gender fluid fashion statements he has inspired Zara to introduce male collections with raffled shirts. He also jump started the Tik Tok Trend with JW Anderson knitted jacket. He has introduced the trend of wearing jewelry for men, such as pearl earrings and rings. And people would think if Harry wears hem why should not I. if earlier it was a shame, or unacceptable clothing now it seems brave and cool. And all this, the change of the attitude, is because he dared and wore them. He really can be a revolutionary in gender fluid fashion, a pioneer. Harry Styles cover of US Vogue has been formulated as queering heterosexuality, which explains even better why sometimes it can be even more acceptable for heterosexual males to wear dress. While, on contrary if we blur the boundaries, in gender fluid fashion, there is no need to define hetero or homo sexual males and there is no sense to underline what clothe they wear – as the fashion is gender fluid to all genders and sexes.

Harry Styles’ Music video “Falling” 2020

On the other hand, it has been stated by Hitchcock that even though Styles has played the important role in gender queer fashion he is not the flag-bearer in this matter and has done nothing revolutionary, other than just feeling free with gender fluid issues, free from gender constraints. Also remembering that there have been Bowie, Prince, Elton John and many other music stars who have done this before Styles, many years ago, even in a more vulnerable era. While this can be debatable whether Harry Styles is a flag-bearer or not, and if he is a revolutionary, I would state that he definitely has played an important role for developing gender fluid fashion, and has very much cause a domino effect in modern era. Some might think he is not revolutionary because if the previous such activities, some may think he has done something more important to change our views. This can jump start another argument which would need a separate academic paper for proper discussion, but a very interesting one indeed.

2020, Beauty Paper Magazine by Casper Sejersen

28 2019 Guardian Weekend by Samuel Bradley

American Vogue 2020 photographed by Tyler Mitchell

2020, Beauty Paper Magazine by Casper Sejersen

C O N C LU S I O N

The paper has discussed the effect of the music industry, and in particular pop culture over the gender queer distinction and later fashion. The history has shown that even in ancient times music industry has proposed a third gender – gender non binary, neither female, nor male. This matter has been evolving for several centuries and finally has made to music industry transforming fashion into gender fluid matter from David Bowie to Prince to Sam Smith and Harry Styles. It is important to press relevant importance on gender equity and gender queerness, to prove that music and fashion has no gender and that labeling by gender is not sensible anymore. Many women do suffer because of this unfair labelling and the fact has been shown in the above paragraphs, how female artists still suffer for gender bias reasons. At the end, the most important thing to conclude is that the fashion and music do not have gender and the only things we should be looking at is one’s ability to perform. Harry Styles has been mentioned as a flag-bearer in gender fluid fashion, while some think this is not true and he has done nothing revolutionary.

“Some people might think this is what queerness is all about – a man in a dress – when it’s so much more complex than that” – Jay McCauley Bowstead

To conclude, I would say this may be an arguable matter, however he has definitely done something very important that also has caused a domino effect in music and fashion industry. His presence for such matter, his openness and his braveness has shown to others that the most important thing is to feel free and comfortable no matter your gender to sexual interests. He definitely has contributed to the development of the gender fluid fashion and proved that every men has his feminine side, which they should embrace.

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