Breaking Bread with Chef Miro Mattalia

Breaking Bread with Chef Miro Mattalia

Staying true to the roots where food is served family-recipe style Interview

by Morgan JT

Appia Bangkok recently reopened its doors after the renovation with a refreshed look and atmosphere while also welcoming a new Executive Chef Miro Mattalia to its kitchen.

The restaurant’s new look boasts warmth and family atmosphere with wooden decor and spacious table arrangements. There is a small cold cuts table on one side. A flight of stairs leading up to the wine cellar which houses numerous and choicest conventional and selected natural wines on offer next to a private room. The previous bar area at the end has been turned into a welcoming seating area in front of an open kitchen.

“We want to bring new things, new talent and new aspects to the restaurant and our food while keeping to the original theme,” Chef-owner Paulo Vitaletti said when asked about the renovation.

“We keep the Roman roots but with different approach. Sometimes more refined, sometimes not, so we can have different textures and dishes and styles but never forgetting the roots of the products we are working with,” he added.

Talking to Chef Miro about how he met Chef Paolo, he said: “I was working at Consorzio Restaurant when I met him [Chef Paolo] through a mutual friend. He came to eat at the restaurant. He was there for lunch and dinner for three days straight, I think he must’ve tried the whole menu.

“We stayed in touch and a couple of years later I told him I’d like to come and work in Bangkok and if he knows any restaurants looking for a chef, I’d be interested. And here I am,” he mused.

Chef Miro has accumulated over 15 years experience working in multi-Michelin-starred kitchens throughout Europe working in renowned restaurants like Le Calandre and Banco Vini e Alimenti in Italy, El Raco de Can Fabes, Spain and as Chef a la Table at Lausanne Palace & Spa, Switzerland.

When discussing what he will bring to the menu at Appia, Chef Miro says: “I try to stick to the Roman cuisine roots while offering something new... I started from the traditional recipe and try to change the texture and the presentation while still offer the familiar tastes that people enjoy.”

The first dish began with a rather intriguing Ravioli Crudi (B890) , a raw ‘ravioli’ made using Mazara prawns with stracciatella cheese wrapped inside, sprinkled with chive-infused olive oil served with shrimp heads. The raw and briney flavours from the shrimp brought the deep blue sea to mind while mixing with the soft texture of cheese made for an interesting yet satisfying mouthfeel.

The Inside-out Amatriciana (B450) is a reimagined dish comprises of crispy fried pasta Amatriciana served with onion and crispy guanciale, tomatoes and pecorino foam. The rich texture and creamy consistency pairs perfectly with houserecommended Kindeli Blanco 2018 from New Zealand.

Next up was the savoury Crispy Pig’s Head (B390) precisely cooked and deliciously served with mustard sorbet, coffee and misticanza salad.

A big hit has to be the Porchetta, Like in Rome (B450 for one B700 to share)—absolutely savoury and moist boneless pork slow roasted overnight. It is still heavy with salty flavours but definitely wholesome when served together with the apple sauce.

Another interesting choice is the Cheeky Cannelloni (B590)—a serving of perfectly cooked pork cheek meat rolled together with house-made foie gras sauce topped with delectable Parmesan fondue and the aromatic black truffle which made for a great closure for the savoury dishes.

Concluding the meal with a serving of Olive oil sponge cake (B290), refreshing bites of soft sponge cake made from a combination of sour passionfruit and olive oil was served with mint, yogurt and fast-melting basil sorbet that Chef Miro urged us to try first.

Followed closely by a musthave chef Paolo’s Mother’s Tiramisu (B350), its texture, sweetness and bitterness combined for a calm and soothing sensation; a perfect ending for a fulfilling meal.

Appia

20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel. 02 261 2056 Open: Tues-Sun 6:30am-10:30pm www.Appia-bangkok.com