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KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
ONE WASH
The garment for short use.
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_ Collaboration with:
The project: for sustainable innovation in fashion. This project has been funded by the KIEM program (Knowledge Innovation Mapping).
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KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
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INTRODUCTION
Fast fashion is designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply to allow the mainstream consumer to buy current clothing styles at a lower price. A big target group for fast fashion are young girls who shop as a hobby. These girls are trying and identities (Jongejan, 2013). The goal of fast fashion garments is to seduce the target group, and not to last long. But the fact that these garments have a short life-cycle, isn’t taken into consideration in the
product material
short life cycle long life cycle currently has short life cycle
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
fig. 1 -life cycles
Design for short life. _ Design value and sustainable properties of short life materials. _ Lack of anticipation regarding possible reactions of consumers. _ Material science can’t develop without direction from the fashion industry and market demand.
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EXPERTISE:
O
scar Tomico
Eindhoven University of Technology
A
nke Jongejan
FashionFutures
M
arina Toeters
by-wire.net
T
amara Hoogeweegen graduating student.
T
heresia Grevinga Saxion
B
as Krins
J
API
oost Vogtlander Aiming Better
Setting up workshops, collaborative environments. Main Project leader Smart Textile Services project. Background in Fashion Design. Knowledge about the users (extensive preresearch). Aesthetics. Design and research in fashion technology. Bridging the gap between fashion and technology and working multidisciplinary.
EXPECTATIONS:
Value of design stakeholder collaborations. Future innovation of not yet existing materials.
Set a new status quo in the fashion industry. And get new materials to work with as a fashion designer.
mindset be translated towards the fashion industry? How to produce for this demand?
Explorative approach. Some experience in Wearable Technology. Specializing in innovating the wearable and textile industry.
Gain experience in designing with materials at the core and in a multidisciplinary group
Expertise in garment production. Text materials. Textile technology.
Interested in production methods of garments and fabrics.
Biopolymers, making yarns. Share knowhow.
Not too much, but more use cases would be interesting to analyze the demands.
Fast track LCA
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
table. 1 -the experts
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CONCLUSIONS KICK-OFF MEETING
Fictions’ project we held a workshop with the
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
The workshop started with clarifying each others expertise and expectations for the project. This was followed by discussing the time line for the project and the goals. Successively the materials presented by Tamara were discussed.
Based on the meeting the following scenarios resulted as the most interesting ones: First of all a closed loop scenario. This would be possible with PLA. Making garments out of just PLA is technically possible, the buttons and zippers could be 3D printed in PLA. But this collecting and recycling would make the LCA out of
The meeting was a success. Because of the
user, who doesn’t recycle. Secondly water-soluble garments are interesting. Mainly in combination with triggers:
Krins was very valuable because of his expertise in polymers. For Anke, who set up the project,
through a cycle of change by using an evolving garment. Interesting from a design point of view,
knowledge. The meeting was important for the project to take the next steps.
Regarding the scenarios it can be concluded that most important is that the use of the material is as simple as possible and takes least
//PVA
table. 2 - Most interesting material outcome
PVA but then biobased (now it’s oil-based so not OK to make into fast fashion and not reclaim and harmful to dissolve into water stream). Bas says: A possible candidate for a soluble and biobased polymer that can be made into yarns is: hydroxypropylcellulose.
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_ Soluble garments _ Garments that dissolve in steps, with build in triggers. _ Multi-material garments. Partly soluble partly degradable.
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
are open to explore:
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CUSTOMER JOURNEY
Customer:
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
_ _ _ _
sex: female age: 14-17 trying and changing identities, fashion styles shopping as a hobby
fig. 1 - target group
How:
What:
Stage: Store experience. Placement of the tops.
EXPERIENCE
looks around and selects garments
Advertisement, promotion Merchandising
of the store, their collections and location.
AWARENESS
goes to a store
Communication
Design of the tops, the style they have. Informed on use (through a tag).
TRIAL
tries on garments
Pricing
Price. Value for money consideration.
PURCHASE
buys tops
Social (media)
Communication.
End relation with garment. Wash it. Person washing needs to be informed.
DISPOSE CONSUME Wear to an occasion. Share the experience.
washes shirt
wears shirt
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
girl goes shopping
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PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
To make a line of garments that are made for short wear it is important that these aren’t much more expensive than other existing garments. Therefor this section focuses on alternative Production techniques for our bio-based soluble material.
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Coloring. techniques such as transfer printing, dying and digital printing. Basically all of these techniques use heat, or otherwise For this project it is important that the dyes or inks used are biodegradable (preferably compostable) and that dyes used should be environmentally friendly. Natural dyes are interesting, examples are: Rubia (http://www.rubia-nc.com/ home/) or edible dyes (http://www.cakeart.nl/). The developed material should be heat resistant to still be able to print on. It would also be interesting to know if the material can be dyed naturally earlier in the development phase.
What is edible ink? - Water - Alcohol - Citric acid (to keep it fresh) (colorants) - E422, E202, E490 (preservatives, additives)
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KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
Other decorations. Many fashionable garments have decorations such as sequins, studs or fringes. These are typical parts that can be played with in the design and the dissolving transitions. An alternative to attaching these decorations to a textile is using 3D printing technology. By printing straight onto the textile it requires no handwork in attaching for example sequins or studs. Moreover the decorative details in them selves can be designed. Sequins don’t need to be round and studs can have more crazy shapes. There is much room for you see in the following images is actually waste material but shows great potential of the 3D printing technology. Regarding fringes and other yarn based decoration could be made of the soluble material and dissolve in steps. By integrating soluble material as the weft of a weave it would be possible to create fringes after the dissolving step.
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fig. 1 - 3D printed swirls
fig. 2- 3D printed “fur”
fig. 3 - 3D printed swirls 2
fig. 4- 3D printed waste material
fig. 5 - 3D printed PVA shapes
fig. 6- 3D printed of textile
fig. 73D printing tests
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Sewing alternatives. GLUING dissolving steps the idea of changing volumes came up. The idea is that by dissolving certain seams the design of the garment changes. For this idea we starting to look at gluing seams. The glue would have to be biodegradable (preferably compostable) and soluble in a washing cycle. For this we contacted Benjamin Heerze account manager at Maan Group, expert in gluing technology. Maan is starting to develop biodegradable glues, these degrade in
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
This works good with broad and slim strips. Haven’t tested dissolving the glues yet. (See images above)
TAPES AND FILMS or tapes to make sure that cuts don’t fray and to make seams. This technology is interesting to use as some kind of huge
biodegradable, the same goes for the glue used to bind it. ULTRASONIC WELDING Ultrasonic welding is a technique that uses ultrasonic acoustic vibrations that under pressure create a weld, there are no additional materials needed. The material needs to be a thermoplastic material.
_ Framis tapes (http://www.framis.it/taping/) _ Bemis tapes (http://www.bemisworldwide. com/products/sewfree)
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fig. 8 - Maan sample glues
fig. 9- Glued thick cotton like material
fig. 10 - Glued thin stretchy synthetic fabric
fig. 11- Cotton like fabric
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Alternatives to regular fabrics NON WOVENS Non wovens are interesting as these are cheap to produce. Considering the ways non wovens are produced it is interesting to, in the same go, press a fashionable motif in it. Currently non wovens are amongst other used to make face masks, these
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
non woven, we see potential to do the same on molds for tops with thin drapable non wovens. This would enable to make a garment out of one piece. We did some experiments with the non wovens we had but without much success to make fashionable garments (yet). Tamicare (http://www.tamicare.com/) is a company in the UK that has developed a technology to additive
all-direction stretch and variable porosity based on material extension. What’s interesting about this is that you don’t have any wast material and you directly create in a shape. The pieces do have seams. Once they fold the piece from the mold together they melt the seams. We ordered sample material from Tamicare. Unfortunately the fabrics don’t yet feel right enough to create fashionable items from it. Another interesting technology in a way similar to Tamicare is Electroloom (http://www.electroloom.com/). They away onto a mold.
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fig. 12- Non woven with a transfer
fig. 13- Black non woven.
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DESIGNS
Based on the research conducted on
Design 1 This design has 3D printed decorative
techniques and were made of the biobased soluble material.
the fastening of the sequins. Further more this design goes to a transformation. After washing it the
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
dots. Next time the top is washed it will disappear completely.
fig. 14- Design with 3D printed detail.
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This design is made to be molded or casted. Would reduce waste materials. as this material gives the possibility to press patterns in it. The material used to how it would actually be when molded.
fig. 15- One-piece design.
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
Design 2
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Design 3 If a non-woven would fall nicely it could be used for this design and layer the material. In this design a special tape is used interesting as a cheap production method to cut and press the tape at one. No additional actions needed. The
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
fraying material and adds a detail for a
fig. 17- Tape as finishing.
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This is a design with a fashionable print. A print is used to communicate that the be environmental friendly because it disappears through the sewers.
fig. 18- Design with print
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
Design 4
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USER FEEDBACK SESSION
Through a user feedback session information in the prototypes and the scenario was collected. The session was set up by TU/e (Oscar Tomico & Tamara Hoogeweegen) together with Fashion Futures (Anke Jongejan). The method used is the Bipolar Laddering method (see right column for more detailed description). The user feedback session
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
small conclusions on the prototypes and scenario.
BIPOLAR LADDERING(BLA) The object of a laddering interview is to uncover how product attributes, usage consequences, and personal values are linked in a person’s mind. The characteristics obtained through an element as strength or as a weakness. BLA performing consist of three steps: 1.-Elicitation of the elements: The test starts with a blank template for the positive elements (strengths) and another exactly the same for the negative elements (weaknesses). The interviewer asks users to mention what aspects of the product they like best or help them in their goals or usual tasks. The elements mentioned need to be summarized in one word or short sentence 2.-Marking of elements: Once the list of positive and negative elements is done, the interviewer will ask the user to score each one from 0 (lowest possible level of satisfaction) to 10 (maximum level of satisfaction). elements have been assessed, the qualitative phase starts. The interviewer reads out the elements of both list to the user and applies the laddering interviewing of each one of the elements (Why is it a positive element? Why this mark?). The answer must be a characteristics that make the mentioned element a strength or weakness of the product. (url: http://www.intechopen.com/ books/advanced-technologies/blabipolar-laddering-applied-to-youtubeperforming-postmodern-psychologyparadigms-in-user-experien)
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In general the main feedback on the scenario has been the following: -The idea of short term garments is nice for special occasions, to make you feel special. It’s also good for impulsive actions, this makes it perfect for teenagers. They can then wear the short wear tops in combination with long lasting clothes. It could become a tradition to buy a piece from the one for special occasions. - It’s nice to give it as a small present. It’s about the gesture of giving something special to wear that also is environmental friendly. - Users don’t need to wash away the piece immediately, they they decide they are done with it. environment. Or maybe the higher the temperature the higher the change. - The users need to be well informed about the use through a tag and label. The tag can also inform the users that it’s not necessary to buy many garments and about it’s environmental impact. - The place to sell this collection could be in a pop-up store in existing stores such as Primark and H&M.
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
Scenario.
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Design 1 This piece has 3D printed details and dissolves in two washing steps. This piece was the most popular piece in the User Feedback Session. The following feedback was collected during the user feedback session: - It has a nice color but the color and material of the sleeve and skirt part can be improved. - The skirt and sleeve part could be more integrated into the design and material and color should be adjusted.
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
- Same goes for the transformation process and the added polka dots. It has more potential and it can be made more special.
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techniques in mind; pressing fabric in shape over a mould, or through a casting processes. This design was the second favorite amongst the participants. The general feedback was the following: - The material is interesting but a bit too warm. - Length can be a bit longer. Same goes for the sleeves. - Design can be somewhat more exciting if a motif were pressed into the material, now it’s a bit too simple.
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
Design 2
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Design 3 can be pressed and cut into the fabric straight away. The black a special design detail. During the User Feedback Session one participant chose for this design. The feedback was the following:
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
- The color combination, shape and see-through material are assessed positively.
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This top has as a special characteristic it’s print. This implies that the base material need to be heat resistant (enough to print on). The dyes used are biodegradable, this can be edible ink or natural dye. During the Feedback session none of the participants chose this top, we asked around why: - Too much print, too big print, too big shoulders and the additional fringes are also too much.
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
Design 4
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ONE WASH
100% HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’
30°
KIEM-PROJECT ‘MATERIAL SCIENCE AND DESIGN FICTION’