The Passion for Fashion Issue

issue

THREE

Happy New Year

HOLST + LEE

IN THIS ISSUE

WE EXPLORE OUR PASSION FOR FASHION

Vogue Italia casted a bevy of black models in its February 2011 "Black Allure" spread. In the best seller with you. Check out how Ajak Deng, Chanel Iman, Arlenis Sosa Pena, Jourdan Sessilee Lopez and Joan Smalls all striked a pose in the latest Versace, Ferragamo, Louis

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton spirit of our first Passion for Fashion Le Rapport Minoritaire will share a few pages of the , Dunn, Melodie Monrose, Lais Ribeiro, Georgie Baddiel, Rose Cordero, Mia Aminata Niaria, Vuitton, Lanvin and Dior. You can get an more behind the scenes insight at www.Vogue.it .

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Bonjour Les Amis!

Happy New Year, LRM Family! Nine months ago, we set out to establish a meaningful platform to shed light upon the talents of minorities in design.

Remarkably, our efforts were met with a sincere warmth from our constituents and excitement within the community in which we are striving to serve. We are extremely humbled by the letters we have received urging us to continue bringing forth new and exciting people, places and things that is relevant to people of color.

Do not get me wrong, we do not wish to alienate or ostracize anyone. Please understand that is not our agenda. The sole purpose of our existence is to promote diversity within the design industry as means to educate the world that there is beauty in multiplicity, in spite of our consistent exclusion from mainstream design media. We are here, we are talented and we are here to stay.

So let me the first to welcome you to “The Year of Self-Empowerment”. As an effort to facilitate selfempowerment among our readership we will be offering free advertising throughout 2012 to prominent and emerging designers of color to help build brand awareness as a means to build their respective businesses. All we ask is that you pass the word and give us feedback on how we can better serve your needs moving forward.

In fact, if you notice an editorial or ad referencing your brand please consider it as an act of flattery and a nod to your “creative genius”. However, if you do not like flattery, by all means, please let us know and we will happily oblige you.

Shalom Y’all…

Tameka Pierre-Louis, Allied Member ASID Editor-In-Chief of Le Rapport Minoritaire Magazine

Editorial Nods 8-Letter From the Editor 13- Real Talk: How Asia stripped Africa’s Textile Industry.

18- Editor’s Pick: Jewel by Lisa 24- A Call for Diversity 28- Fashion’s Sher-oes 41-Culture Alert: Is Urban Fashion Still Relevant?

50- Blogs We Love 61- Fashion Insider: Bevy Smith 65-Swagger Like Us: Helen Jennings 69- Dapper Dons 78- The Fashionista 94- Phoenix Rising: Kanye West 99- People to Watch 121-Model Citizen: 50 Cent 152- Changing the Game: Franca Souzzi of Vogue Italia 154-Documentaries of Note: Dark Girls 165- What’s Poppin: Bronzeville Boutique Lady Mocha 173-My Love Affair with Iris Apfel

Enjoy!

real talk

positive and negative effect on many developing countries. The “positive” effects include efficiencies in production and trade of textiles and clothing, saving quota related expenses and consumer’s benefit from lower prices. “Negative” consequences have included an increase in the unemployed as well as declining exports in least income countries. It has been evident that in the short to medium run, because Chinese firms have lowered their cost structures and had the resources to make their companies more efficient than their African counterparts, it will be difficult for African firms to compete in the mass clothing market.

Dutch wax prints only recently started being produced on the African continent but now that the African textile industry is facing competition from China, the probability of Africanowned firms being able to sustain themselves slim to none. The entrance of Chinese manufactured print textiles brings another complication into the mix, throwing a wrench in the established trade networks between West African and European cloth manufacturers.

How Asia stripped Africa's textile industry.

The arrival of the Chinese and their products has so greatly weakened Africa’s industries but none greater than the textile industry. Due to the multi-fibre agreements, also known as the Agreements on Textile and Clothing, China was compelled to repatriate the production of numerous industries which ultimately caused the shutting down of numerous factories across the continent of Africa which destabilized the industry as a whole. However, the expiration of the multi fibre agreements is having both a

How China came into producing wax prints textiles West African markets is is often attributed to African traders having travelled to regions in China, such as Shandong, in the past to reproduce fabric samples for them cheaply which were to be sold in their respective countries. Thus, many contend that African traders had a role to play in introducing Chinese manufacturers into the African textile market and only have themselves to blame. Now the demand for Dutch wax prints is high and one can find that they re being increasingly reproduced in

China. While wax prints bearing ‘Made in Holland’ tags are at the high end of the market, Chinese productions are occupying the opposite end.

However, this is changing rapidly as the quality of Chinese wax print copies is apparently improving.

Leaving Vlisco as the only European-owned producer of wax prints.

Rewind back to a few years ago, the tiny kingdom of Lesotho appeared to have a lot on offer for investors: cheap labor, generous tax incentives and proximity to the regional powerhouse, South Africa.

Textile manufacturers certainly seemed to like what they saw. Taiwanese entrepreneurs started arriving in Lesotho in 2000. By investing in the country, they were also able to take advantage of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). This United States program was set up to allow duty-free access to the American market for a wide selection of exports from countries in sub-Saharan Africa that met certain conditions, such as respect for human rights and the rule of law. Then then US Trade Representative, Robert Zoellick, told journalists that

his country had "a great respect for what Lesotho is accomplishing". But even as Zoellick was lavishing praise on the country's textile, sector six textile factories were in the process of shutting down leaving 6,650 employees without work. An enraged union leader Billy Macaefa blamed the closures on the expiry of the Multi-Fiber Agreement (MFA), which was introduced by the World Trade Organization (WTO) about 30 years ago.

The initial aim of the MFA was to protect the textile industries of developed nations facing competition from low-cost producers in poorer states. Thanks to the MFA, nations were allowed to impose quotas on textile imports. This gave countries like Lesotho the proverbial "foot in the door" in markets that might otherwise have been dominated by manufacturing behemoths such as China.

Shortly afterwards, the United States set up a program where it allowed duty-free access to the American market for a wide selection of exports from countries in sub-Saharan Africa that met

certain conditions, with respect to human rights and the rule of law.

Following that the Taiwanese went mainland to form Chinese, Mauritian and Malaysian textile firms. By 2003, Lesotho had grown into a major textile manufacturer in Africa, producing 31% of textiles exported to the US under AGOA. According to official statistics, some 50,000 people depended on Lesotho's textile industry for their livelihood in 2004, compared to 20,000 two years before.

Now textile managers are lobbying their governments to improve the business climate in the 13-nation Southern African Development Community (SADC). But when they say "improve the business climate", what they actually mean is, they are hoping to impel their governments to boost the competitiveness of the region's industry in the global textile market .

The removal of quota restrictions means that poor African producers are no longer protected from the stiff competition that the Asian mass producers pose. Asian countries are expected to enjoy unlimited access to the duty-free American market after the lifting of the quotas. A World Trade Organization study released in September showed that China and India would probably come to dominate about 80% of the global textile market in the post-MFA era, while the remaining 20% would be shared by the rest of the world. Eighty percent! That is astounding.

Agrina Mussa, president of the Association of SADC Chambers of Commerce and Industry (ASCCI), said they had produced a "white paper" prescribing remedies to encourage domestic investment and production competitiveness.

Following the lapse of the quotas, most Asian firms that had invested in the region to take advantage of the AGOA, have pulled out, Mussa said. "We need to look within (the SADC region) for investments which require that we have our own mills. For such investments to come, security, macroeconomic, good governance and labor issues need to be addressed."

The Rupert Sanderson “Africa” Series

The pullout of Asian investors has created thousands of job losses in the region. In a new report, "Rags to Riches to Rags", British-based charity Christian Aid estimates that 27 million workers around the world could lose their jobs as a result of the end of the quota system.

Lesotho, Malawi and South Africa have already reported cuts in thousands of jobs in the textile industry. Something has to be done.

In Malawi 2,511 jobs were cut between January and March this year when a Taiwanese firm, Haps Garments, closed shop in the administrative capital of Lilongwe and relocated to Taipei. A branch of Haps in Lesotho - where more than 10,000 textile countries in the region have been dealt a rude blow. Malawi has registered nine textile companies under AGOA, but not all of them are exporting to the US. Between them, they employ more than 11,000 workers, who now face an uncertain future.

In the tiny kingdom of Swaziland, where AGOA products constituted 83% of the country's exports, 30,000 jobs are at stake, according to a March 2005 survey conducted by the Zambiabased Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA). "Any potential disruption to the local textiles and garments industry would be understandably resented as this would present enormous social problems [for] the country," said the survey.

In 2004, Malawi earned about US$20 million in textile exports from the US market, according to a January 2005 country report on Malawi by London-based think-tank Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU). The report says the country's exports under AGOA jumped by 40% and that it emerged the third-highest African exporter to the US after South Africa and Cote d'Ivoire.

In regional giant South Africa, some 300,000 textile workers have lost their jobs in the past two years due to the influx of Chinese goods.

"We need some sort of quota placed on China. It will be a short-term solution, but it will give the textile industry a breathing space to reorganize

itself," said Walter Simeoni, president of the South African Textile Federation. "Chinese clothing now represents 86% of the total garments imported into South Africa. Items like towels, blankets and curtains represent 60%. All this was achieved within the past three years."

Simeoni rejects the argument that slapping quotas on Chinese textile imports would violate WTO rules. "Brazil, Turkey and the US have introduced some quotas on some of their products. The European Union is also looking at it. I think the South African authorities have not been convinced of the urgency of the problem. And, I think they are reluctant to upset the Chinese." This, says Simeoni, stems from the fact that China supported the struggle to end apartheid in South Africa.

Currency fluctuations have worsened the crisis in the textile industry. In recent months, the South African rand has strengthened from the historic low it reached in December 2001, when $1 traded for 13.85 rand. The dollar is now around six rands. "No textile firm in the world can compete in an environment where the currency appreciated against the US dollar and the Chinese currency by 30% in 2002 and a further 25% between January 2003 and October 2003," said Simeoni. "In fact, all our competitors in the East depreciated their currency...against the rand, as they linked themselves to the US dollar in order to stay competitive. This is one of the reasons they create jobs, while we destroy them." In recent developments the US has proposed a variety of measures to lend some solutions to these issues but an exchange rate of nine rands to the dollar is apparently needed for South African textile exports to regain their competitive edge.

editor’s pick

Spruce up your wardrobe With Jewel By Lisa ‘s “J Label”

FREE REBELLION

From left to right: Yolanda Sacristan, Spain; Kirstie Clements, Australia; Anaita Adajania, India; Christiane Arp, Germany; Angelica Cheung, China; Franca Sozzani, Italy; Mitsuko Watanabe, Japan; Anna Wintour, America; Emmanuelle Alt, France; Alexandra Shulman, Britain; Victoria Davydova, Russia; Anna Harvey, representing Brazil and Greece; Seda Domanic, Turkey; Myung Hee Lee, Korea; Rosalie Huang, Taiwan; Eva Hughes, Mexico and Latin America; and Paula Mateus, Portugal.

It has been over a year since African-American women were up in arms about the former EditorIn-Chief of Essence magazine, Angela Burt-Murray having made the controversial decision to hire Ellianna Placas, who had previously worked at O: The Oprah Magazine and US Weekly, as Essence’s fashion director. Essence was forced to deal with the backlash of black women on Facebook and other Afro-centric websites.

Despite the furor over the hiring of Placas, BurtMurray stood her ground and did not sway in her decision one bit. Burt-Murray has been quoted as saying that although she understood that this issue

struck an emotional chord with their audience. She had hired Placas, who had already been contributing to the magazine on a freelance basis, because of “her creativity, vision, the positive reader response to her work and her enthusiasm and respect for the audience and our brand”. She also went on to assure their readership that *Essence+ “would remain committed to celebrating the unique beauty and style of African-American women in Essence magazine and online at Essence.com.”

Subsequent to that, she even went on to discuss the matter further with various other media outlets, where she ventured on in her defense having said,

American Vogu’s Anna Wintour, is obviously in the center where she belongs. (Just a little humor, guys.)

a call for diversity

“Now don't get me wrong. I read and digested many of the heartfelt and poignant posts on this topic and I sincerely respect everyone's thoughts and sentiments. I also share their concerns and frustrations about the lack of visibility of AfricanAmerican women throughout the ranks of the fashion industry, which is overwhelmingly white. I, too, want to see more of us on the mastheads of all the magazines, seated in the front rows of the shows, designing our own fashion lines, and contributing our special flavor and flyness to the world of style…

And when I set out to hire a new fashion director I certainly had no idea I would end up making this decision. I first got to know and came to respect Ellianna when she came to work with us nearly six months ago. We were conducting a search for a new director when she was hired to run the department on a freelance basis. I got to see firsthand her creativity, her vision, the positive reader response to her work, and her enthusiasm and respect for the audience and our brand. As such, I thought she'd make an excellent addition to our team. And I still do. This decision in no way diminishes my commitment to black women, our issues, our fights.

I am listening and I do take the concerns to heart.

But interestingly enough, the things I think should most upset people and inspire boycotts and Facebook protests, often seem to go relatively unnoticed. Like when Essence conducted a threepart education series this year on the plight of black children falling through the cracks in underperforming schools. Crickets. When we reported on the increase in sex trafficking of young black girls in urban communities? Silence. When our writers investigated the inequities in the health care services black women receive? Deadly silence.

When our editors highlighted data from the Closing the Gap Initiative report "Lifting as We Climb: Women of Color, Wealth and America's Future" that showed that the median net worth of single black women was $5? There went those darn crickets again. When we run pieces on how unemployment is devastating black men? Nada. When we run story after story on how HIV is the leading cause of death for black women age 18-34? Zilch. The things that really are the end of our world apparently aren't.”

Her response left readers miffed. Some blogs even questioned whether Burt-Murray actually liked the audience that she was serving. But one thing was clear, no one (meaning Essence’ readership) was upset when she resigned. I don’t know about you but coming behind such a rich legacy of former editors, I would not have wanted that to be my legacy. Though her intentions were “well-meaning” I am not sure if the were “well-thought out”. If you look at the recent photograph of all of the top fashion editors in the world, one can visibly see that there is not a person of color among them. Is it just me? Or is that actually rather “disturbing”?

Even one of the most famous black models in the world, Naomi Campbell, has recently commented on how one facet of the industry has continued to suffer due to the -black models. *People in+ “fashion advertising, don't dare to put a girl of color in their campaign, full stop. Nor of any other race. It's a shame. It's very sad.“ It is. Who will be our voice?

new faces

she-roes

In the 1960s, Bethann Hardison worked as a garment industry salesgirl. In the 1970s, she was an international runway model and assistant to some of the most important designers of the decade. In 1984, Bethann founded her own agency and became responsible for scouting, launching and managing some of the most famous models of our time, such as Naomi Campbell, Veronica Webb and Tyson Beckford to name a few.

In the 1987, Bethann became an activist outright, founding the Black Girls Coalition with her close friend Iman (Bethann was her maid of honor when she married David Bowie). As famous for her vitality and her straightshooting spirit as she is for her beauty and business know-how, Bethann Hardison is a force to be reckoned with. Sheding light to the lack of diversity on the runways in recent years

in her new documentary project Invisible Beauty, Bethann Hardison has additionally served as a contributing editor to the now infamous Vogue Italia, "black" issue.

With AfricanAmerican buying power expected to reach $1.1 trillion by 2015, according to The State of the African-American Consumer Report, Bethann has devoted her energies to leveling the playing field for her clients and the industry at- large.

Go Bethann!!!

The “Great Ambassador�

Bethann Hardison

As the ever consummate professional, diversity advocate, mother and friend, Bethann certainly embodies the empowered woman.

Constance White

Almost four months to the day after ESSENCE announced Angela Burt Murray’s departure, her replacement has been revealed. Veteran Jamaican-born journalist, editor and culture & style expert Constance C. R. White, former Style Director of eBay, is joining as Editor-in-Chief of the largest media brand dedicated to black women. She left her post at eBay back in August 2010.

White served as Style Director, Brand Consultant and Spokesperson for the leading online company eBay, where she developed content and strategies aimed at women. She is credited with conceiving and creating eBay’s first web-zine, as well as developing a comprehensive editorial environment.

White was previously the founding Fashion Editor for Talk magazine, a celebrated Style Reporter for The New York Times and the Executive Fashion Editor for Elle magazine. She also served as Associate Editor at Women’s Wear Daily and W magazine and began her career at the highy esteemed “Ms.” magazine, as

assistant to co-Founder Gloria Steinem.

She received her Bachelor of Arts degree from New York University and is the author of the book, StyleNoir, available on Amazon.

Susan L. Taylor

Carribean. Taylor was interested in expanding her career. She heard that Essence, a fledgling publication catering to African American women, was looking for a beauty editor. Taylor approached editor-in-chief Ed Lewis for the position and was hired in 1970.

Although Taylor had never attended college, she was a licensed cosmetologist who understood the specific needs and concerns of black women. Her monthly articles were popular with African American females who were historically undervalued and underrepresented by media companies. Taylor soon became responsible for fashion as well as beauty, and in 1981 she was promoted to editorin-chief. In March 1986, Taylor was elected vice president of Essence Communication, Inc. and became senior vice president in 1993. She was the host and executive producer of Essence, the country's first nationally syndicated African-oriented magazine television show, the Essence Awards show and the Essence Music Festival. She stepped down as the editor-in chief for the magazine in July 2000.

Susan Taylor was born in New York in 1946. In her early twenties, the young entrepreneur started Nequai Cosmetics, one of the first companies to create beauty products for African American women. Although her product line was well received in African American communities and in the

Under Susan's expert guidance, Essence experienced phenomenal growth. Its monthly readership soared to more than 5 million, reaching black women all over the world. Capturing the hearts of Essence readers was Susan's monthly column, "In the Spirit," which addressed themes such as family, faith, self-esteem and health. Her motivational features culminated in the popular books, In the Spirit: The Inspirational Writings of Susan L. Taylor and Lessons In Living. She also authored a third book with her husband, Khepra Burns, “Confirmations: The Spiritual Wisdom That Has Shaped Our Lives� and has grown into a popular speaker on the lecture circuit. Susan is a true pioneer.

Mikki Taylor

Mikki Taylor, one of the nation’s foremost authorities on fashion, beauty, and style. She served as the Beauty Cover Director for Essencce Magazine for over 30 years and is now Editor-atLarge for the publication. She recently penned a book entitled, Commander in Chic, about the phenomenon that we all aspire to emulate in some form or fashion- First Lady Michelle Obama.

The nation’s major networks, radio stations, and newspapers call on Mikki Taylor not only to discuss the “Obama look” and its feverish impact on style, but to hear Taylor’s own smart advice on looking polished and pulled together. She’s been privy to Obama’s style philosophy as well as that of countless celebs through her longtime role as beauty and cover director at Essence magazine, where she collaborated with Obama’s team on fashion and beauty choices for prime photo shoots for the magazine.

She shares the keys achieving the “Obama look “ with her diary-like observations, tips, and Mikki-isms (her short, ultra-clever style aphorisms) for women everywhere. All in all her book shows us how to possess a signature look and a wardrobe of bankable pieces that allow us the kind of versatility where we never have to worry about what to wear again!

Cover-to-cover, the book is full of stunning photographs that take the guesswork out of what works. Every chapter in the book shares the kinds of concrete information and inspiring style ideas that not only make getting dressed a fabulous experience, but define what will make you a woman to remember! To that end, Commander in Chic is a gold mine of information that will inspire you—from head to toe, inside and out—on how to truly style, now and for years to come.

Oprah Winfrey

Oprah Gail Winfrey was born into poverty in rural Mississippi on January 29, 1954 to a teenage single mother and later raised in an inner- city Milwaukee neighborhood. She experienced considerable hardship during her childhood, being a victim of incest producing an unwanted pregnancy that led to a stillborn child. She was then sent to live with her father in Tennessee, where she eventually landed a job in radio while still in high school and later as a co-anchor at the local evening news at the age of nineteen. Her emotional ad-lib delivery eventually got her transferred to the daytime-talk-show arena, and after boosting a third-rated local Chicago talk show to first place, she launched her own production company and became internationally syndicated.

The success of her television show made her a wealthy woman where for some time she was noted the only black billionaire in America. Her generous philanthropic efforts are indicative of her advocacy for children’s rights and education. She has coauthored five successful books where at the announcement of the weight loss book, that she coauthored with her personal trainer Bob Greene in 2005, it was said that her undisclosed advance fee had broken the record for the world's highest book advance fee, previously held by the autobiography of former U.S. President Bill Clinton.

Her publishing ventures include, O- The Oprah Magazine and O at Home. Fortune touted “O� as the most successful start-up ever in the industry. Although its circulation had declined by more than 10 percent (to 2.4 million) from 2005 to 2008, the January 2009 issue was the best selling issue since 2006. The audience for her magazine is considerably more upscale than for her TV show, the average reader earning well above the median for U.S. women.

She ended her syndicated series in 2011 to focus her energies on her Own cable network. Though it has been struggling with ratings, she is determined to make it the powerhouse that it is destined to be.

There are so many obvious reasons why Oprah Winfrey is a hero and the record speaks for itself.

Mataano

Naab

culture alert

Since the early eighties Hip-Hop has struggled to find it’s own identity. In the beginning, we saw all sorts of influences from other counter cultures such as, punk, underground rock, and several other musical genres. This was quickly followed by the introduction of urban identified brands such as Gucci, Tommy Hilfiger, Le Coq Sportif, Kangol, Adidas, and Pro-keds in the early eighties. It wasn’t until the late eighties that we saw Hip-Hop start to take on it’s own identity with clothing labels like Cross Colours, Karl Kani, Dada, FUBU and Mecca.

Eventually, Hip-Hop’s influence on pop culture became undeniable. Its “subtle cool” stood above the fray in the fashion world. So it was a virtual nobrainer why several Hip-Hop artists decided to start their own clothing lines. In the 90’s brands like Phat Farm, Rocawear, Sean John, G-unit, and Apple Bottoms just to name a few began to emerge. From the late 90’s into the early 2000’s an influx of even

more urban labels came into play where in time high-end fashion designers began catering to the Hip-Hop culture. There influences on every runway were inescapable having made its way from Paris to Milan all the way back to New York.

In recent years the tides have turned where today’s fashions now dictate a slimmer-cut on clothing, a far cry from what once was. Is this a sign that Hip-Hop’s reign over fashion is over?

With the majority of the urban designers abandoning their high-end lines that once graced the pages of major magazines and the runways of New York fashion week in order to focus on their more affordable lines, heavy-hitters like, Sean “Diddy” Combs, whose Fifth Avenue flagship recently having closed its doors and artists like Little Wayne now wearing the top designer brands, one has to ask- is urban fashion still relevant?

Recent reports have revealed that Baby Phat will possibly fold due to its parent company, Kellwood Manufacturing, filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Kellwood is a clothing manufacturer that represents brands such as Fabulosity, Phat Farm and many other big name clothing lines Kellwood is in debt for $140M. Just last week there were reports that Jennifer Lopez would not be selling her J.Lo line in the US and that she would be closing down her Sweet Face line.

Almost a year ago Eve announced the relaunch of her Fetish line, which hasn’t faired well.

Simmons, I never had any desire to wear the big Baby Phat cat logo at all. J.Lo's jeans may have fitted my pear shape, the quality unfortunately seemed lacking to me. Sometimes I wonder whether any of the female urban brands ever really captured the essence of the urban community.

urban designer I know that made it to a more affluent demographic is Sean John, which has done a great job with diversifying its line to fit various age groups. Its designs are sleek and not flashy and they can transfer from day to night.

How come the female brands don't do that?

What's up with all the polyester fabrics, slouchy and glittery tops, cropped jackets, and most of all, over powering logos that take away from the design of the clothes.

These brands are sold in local urban neighborhood stores such as Jimmy Jazz, Dr. J's, Hyperactive, and S&D's. The funny thing is that you will not find these brands on Madison Ave. or Rodeo Drive. The only

We all know that chain stores are filing for bankruptcy left and right and designers are backing out of fashion week shows. Are urban brands joining the club? Would you miss any of the aforementioned urban brands if they were to close down? Though I love myself some Kimora “Lee”

Yes, brands usually target teenagers and not necessarily young adults, but, at some point these brands will have to providing clothing that make our young girls look like they are going to a club at the middle of the day and most of they must stop the urban community from being walking billboards with logos on everything. Don't get me wrong, I am all for entrepreneurship and understand that each brand is ultimately trying to sell a lifestyle. But which one?

According to recent court documents, sales at the iconic Rocawear clothing brand have been steadily dropping since Jay Z sold off stocks in the company in 2007. While he still maintains an interest in the company, Jay Z has also sold individual licenses to vendors interested in benefiting off the Roc name. Jay Z was hit with a lawsuit brought against the label by one of its licensees, ROC Fashions at the end of last year. With the state of the economy people are now demanding more bang for their buck, perhaps these labels should listen.

Fulani Handbags

Ethnicitidesignonline

blogs we love

Andrea Bomo and Sandy Miller of Paris Most Wanted

Uche Eze of Bella Naija

Soraya De Carvalho of Style Is My Thing

Patrice Yursik of Afrobella

Assa Cisse of Ciaafrique

Ijeoma Ndekwu of Bella Naija

Angela Laws of Concrete Loop

Wadami Amolegbe of www.hauteafrica.com

Terence Sambo of One Nigerian Boy

Folake Kuye Huntoon of Style Pantry

fashion insider

Self-described “Hostess with the Mostest”, Bevy Smith has a keen style sense and razor sharp intuition in recognizing trends. Her expertise has made her a well-respected figure in the worlds of fashion and media. The knowledge she has amassed combined with her quick wit and her charming on-air persona, makes her a invaluable talent resource for outlets such as VH1, E! Entertainment, Access Hollywood, Oxygen, BET, Food Network and TV ONE. Smith is not only a regular on television, but is also a popular resource for print media outlets, such as New York Magazine, New York Times, Uptown Magazine and the Washington Post. Additionally, she has written for Paper, Interview and Glamour magazines. Smith also blogs for Papermag.com and was a contributing editor for Latina Magazine. Where does she get the energy?!

Smith is known for throwing fabulous soirees called, “Dinner With Bevy”. A unique event connecting trendsetters in fashion, style entertainment and media at chic, intimate dinner settings. She insists that she is simply a “conduit for fusing relationships between *people in+ music, entertainment and fashion”.

Bevy has hosted dinners for top celebrities such as Kerry Washington, Sanaa Lathan, T.I., Soledad O’Brien, Keyshia Cole, Ashanti, Anthony Anderson, Vanessa Carlton, Chris Brown, Amerie, Mya, Swizz Beatz, Anthony Mackie, Chrisette Michelle, Idris Elba, Solange and Musiq Soulchild.

Dinner With Bevy’s reach has expanded to include marquee consumer brands, Nike, Hugo Boss, Belvedere Vodka, Veuve Clicquot, Tanqueray, Essence Magazine, Proctor & Gamble, Target and HBO, as clients.

Smith’s passion for fashion and music came in handy at her editorial post as Fashion Editor at Large for VIBE. Bevy oversaw the vision of the magazine’s fashion coverage. Smith’s “V Style” column was a must-read of what to wear, how to wear it, and where to go. At the same time, her advice column,” Bevy Says,” was a huge hit or VIBE’s women’s fashion and beauty spin-off, Vixen. Smith is a seasoned veteran in the magazine editorial and advertising industry. She started her career at the legendary advertising agency, Peter Rogers and Associates, and then moved to become Media Directorfor Jeff McKay, Inc., a boutique-advertising agency specializing in luxury goods.

After nearly a decade at advertising agencies, Smith moved to VIBE as Fashion Advertising Director, and then to Rolling Stone as the Senior Director of Fashion Advertising. It was during Smith’s tenure in advertising where she established herself as a fashion leader; she secured advertising from Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Helmut Lang, Christian Dior and Giorgio Armani. Bevy is also a popular

public speaker, securing moderating and speaking engagements with HBO, Cinemax, Russell Simmons’s Art For Life, Housing Works, Odyssey Network, Boost Mobile and Sisters Empowering Sisters. Bevy has extended her public speaking career into the “twitterverse”. Smith currently has over 24,000 followers that hang on her every word, from her daily commentary of various programs to tales of her “fab” yet chaotic life. Smith has turned her love of twittering into a revenue stream, working with Bermuda Tourism Board, QVC, Belvedere Vodka, American Airlines and McDonald’s just to name a few to tweet about promotional programs. Smith wears many hats as a public speaker, TV personality, entrepreneur and writer, but she never misses an opportunity to continue to help others. Smith works with Housing Works, a New York based thrift store chain and advocacy group that helps people with HIV and AIDS find appropriate housing. Bevy also sits on the board of Cool Culture, a charity devoted to exposing under-privileged children to the arts.

swagger like us

Africa has had many moments in the fashion sun. According to a 2009 New York Times article where it described that summer season’s clothing by saying, “African style has a drumbeat through the clothes and accessories.” They insist that “surprisingly it isn't about the ethnic…(that it is) instead of the sculpted geometric shapes of Africa and its rich spicy colors that are the strongest forms of identity. Whether it is the bright hues of Lanvin or the leopard dresses of Dolce & Gabanna, African themes have long been echoed throughout European brands for years. African style is in full effect.

Well, “the drum beat continues. The most dramatic examples can be seen in the tribal fabrics offered by the Burberry Prorsum with its use of bold prints in African palettes and geometrical patterns and the sassy silhouettes of Gwen Stephanie’s LAMB. The influence does not stop there. With continuous colonial influences used by Ralph Lauren, through his brilliant use of muted colors in stone gray, desert sand beige and hints of military khaki, mainstream fashion has repeatedly conjured up multiple lines that are uniquely African and ARISE magazine editor, Helen Jennings is at the helm.

African Socialites

Jennings has had quite an illustrious fashion career, having done PR for various high profile brands such as ARISE Fashion Week, John Lewis, O2, River Island, Topshop and Vodafone. Moreover she is an accomplished and well respected journalist who has written for the likes of Amelia’s Magazine, ASOS, BBC, The Big Issue, The Face, i-D, Metro, Mixmag, MOBO, MTV, Nova, Orange, Oyster, Russh (Australia), Time Out, Toni & Guy, Touch, Trace, Urban Junkies, Vice and Virgin Mobile.

She is also the acclaimed editor of ARISE magazine a trendy publication that is known for having put Africa back on the style map. Helen’s job involves her meeting and interviewing fashionistas from all over the African continent, so it was only natural that she would write a book on African fashion. New African Fashion is an incredible coffee table book that features talents such as Black Coffee, Makhi Oh, Duro Olowu, Jewel by Lisa, Tiffany Amber and Bunmi Koko who are African made or African aspired. I met her at a book signing in New York two months ago and found her to be incredibly gracious.

Her vast knowledge on African fashion history is actually quite impressive. At her signing she discussed how the book covers everything from the rich history of African fashion, beauty and style trends to the influence that the Motherland has had on many global trends. The book also covers highly celebrate designers, photographers and models from the rich continent. She shares biographies on each featured designer to give insight into their life and career as well as images of their work. New African Fashion which contains some of the most stunning photography covering this topic in recent history. So you know I certainly grabbed a copy. It is as equally educational as it is entertaining and you won’t be disappointed if you grab a copy for yourself.

Every year ARISE magazine produces an African Fashion Week in Lagos, Africa and during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York, of course I am looking forward to it.

Ngozi Pere-Okorotie

dapper dons “Geek chic� is definitely in. Take a look at how our latest heart throbs are rocking it. (Left) Idris Elba

Pharrell Williams

Clifford “TIP” Harris

Andre 3000

Fonzworth Bentley

Check out Neyo’s new hat line, Francis Alargo now available at Saks Fifth Avenue.

newsflash

Duro Olowu

Things to Cop

Rep the movement ! Available today at www.leraapportminoritaire.com.

For every hand given in marriage, another is taken away‌

Buy responsibly.

the fashionista Shala Monroque

Tracey Ellis Ross

Desiree Rodgers

Nike Oshinowo

Solange Knowles

Rihanna

Amber Rose

flashback

phoenix rising Kanye West

The past two years have been rather difficult for Kanye West to say the least. Recently, he took to Twitter to share what he had been to prior to the unveiling of his fashion line in Paris.

He said, “You guys might think I have some type of backing for my line but I don’t. I did the first fashion show out of my own pocket and used the money I made touring to follow my passion. I’ve been working at this for 8 years now …from the first offers to do urban clothing lines that I turned down…to begging Bape to do my line and never making any real headway… to having an office in LA that was shut down after the “MTV” moment along with my tour with GAGA …I moved to Japan for one month after that and designed every night in my room… I had this opportunity to intern at Fendi and was also offered a position to at Versace which I could not take due to my contract with LV which was for 2 years…”

Interestingly after having moved to Rome after he left Japan and worked at Fendi for 4 months “under cover” where he gave ideas for the men’s collection and occasionally snuck to Giuseppe Zanotti Factory, while still under contract with Louis Vuitton, and learned how to design woman’s shoes for 2 years before his first show. That an amazing educational opportunity that any design student would probably roll over to have! But after doing this first successful LV collection he

Check out West’s fashion show for his DONDA line on YouTube.

was sure that he would have been given a second shot to create but was never given the opportunity.

However, he went on to design a sneaker called the YEEZY with Nike. He did mention that he will be “allowed” to design one pair of sneakers every two years and has even more ideas to share.

Early 2011, he moved to Paris where he opened a small design studio. He admitted that the language barrier was quite difficult. In Paris he met many

great people in design including the master Azzedine Alaia, who even came by his studio one day. He described it as being “the greatest feeling to stand in his presence” in his embarrassingly small Paris studio. His sharing his childhood memories of how teachers told him that he couldn’t focus where he used to get kicked out of class for bringing dirty magazines and drawing Nikeys in 4th grade clearly cemented how his life has come full circle and indeed it has.

people to watch

the legendary Norma in her studio.

Grace Jones

Kingston-born supermodel, Grace Jones is the daughter of Marjorie and Robert W. Jones, who was a politician and Apostolic clergyman. Her parents took Grace and her brother Randy to relocate to Syracuse, New York in 1965. Before becoming a successful model in New York City and Paris, Jones studied theater at Onondaga Community College.

Jones secured a record deal with Island Records in 1977, which resulted in a string of dance-club hits and a large gay following. The three disco albums she recorded?Portfolio (1977), Fame (1978), and Muse(1979)?generated considerable success in that market. These albums consisted of pop melodies set to a disco beat (such as "All on a Summer's Night" and "Do or Die,") and standards (such as "What I Did for Love," "Autumn Leaves," and "Send in the Clowns").

During this period, she also became a muse to Andy Warhol, who photographed her extensively. Jones also accompanied him to famed New York City nightclub Studio 54 on many occasions where she refined her eccentric yet renowned fashion persona.

Toward the end of the 1970s, Jones adapted the emerging New Wave music to create a different style for herself. Still with Island, and now working with producers Chris Blackwell, Alex Sadkin and the Compass Point All Stars, she released the acclaimed albums Warm Leatherette (1980) and Nightclubbing (1981)..

“I am not fashion, I am style.�

Parallel to her musical shift was an equally dramatic visual makeover, created in partnership with stylist Jean-Paul Goude, with whom she had a son. Jones adopted a severe, androgynous look, with square-cut hair and angular, padded clothes. The iconic photographs were featured on her albums Nightclubbing and the subsequent, Slave to the Rhythm (1985) exemplified this new identity. To this day, Jones is known for her unique look at least as much as she is for her music. Her collaboration with

Blackwell, Sadkin and the Compass Point All Stars continued with the dub reggae-influenced album Living My Life. In the mid-1980s, she worked with Trevor Horn for the conceptual musical collage Slave to the Rhythm and with producer Nile Rodgers for Inside Story (1986) her first album after leaving the Island Records label. The wellreceived Slave to the Rhythm went to #12 in the UK. Her last Billboard Hot 100 hit to date was, "I'm Not

Perfect (But I'm Perfect For You). In May 2002, Jones performed onstage with Italian opera tenor Luciano Pavarotti along with a 70 piece orchestra during his annual "Pavarotti and Friends" concert to support the United Nations refugee agency's programs for Angolan refugees in Zambia. Jones continues to perform to packed venues around the world and is highy regarded a “diva supreme.

Lady GaGa has long-cited Grace as a source of inspiration, which makes sense since Grace was well-known for being a club diva who gained notarity from her outrageous aesthetic. Grace, however, feels that GaGa is being a little too literal in sourcing her “inspiration” from her. In a recent interview she revealed that GaGa had asked her to record a duet but Grace snubbed the request.

From Starpulse:

“Yes, she did (ask about a doing a duet), but I said, “No… …I’d just prefer to work with someone who is more original and someone who is not copying me, actually. Well, you know, I’ve seen some things she’s worn that I’ve worn, and that does kind of p**s me off. I wouldn’t go to see her.”

Ouch! Put away your claws, Grace.

african genius

Serge Mouangue

Born 1973 in Yaoundé in Cameroon. At the age of six he leaves to live in Paris where he later studies applied arts and design. His studies and his passion for other cultures make him travel to the US, China, Turkey, Mexico and Australia. At the end of his studies he stays in the latter country for a while and travels as artist and freelance designer. His position as a designer at Renault offers him the chance to return to France. Whatever the circumstance, his work can certainly be deemed “worldly.”

After that he heads for Japan under an exchange with Nissan. He's the creator of the WAfrica concept (the name is a contraction of "wa" for Japan and Africa). Some call his work blasphemous others call it brilliant but the magnificent kimonos that he creates with African motifs are nothing short of stunning. The profoundness of his work is indicative of the rich culture of the Cameroon. rvelous effect.

He was kind enough to grant me some of his time to passionately explain the foundation of Wafrica, the concept of the creation and his vision of Japan.

"The starting point was a way to question the Japanese culture. This culture is very disturbing and very captivating at the same time. By questioning it, I questioned my own culture and where I thought I came from. My way of answering as a creator is by creating. I chose what I thought to be one of Japan's icons.“ This is how Serge Mouangue came to choose the kimono as a first approach to answer these questions. By working on the kimono's expressiveness he tried to find a different angle that would help him understand the Japanese culture better, and his own at the same time.

All the force of the Wafrica concept is based in the will to not make a simple mix because that, in Serge Mouangue's opinion, would generate concessions. But rather it's about working on an "association" of two esthetics to give birth to a third, new one. Now that’s genius.

le prodigy Koto Bolofo

Koto Bolofo was born in South Africa in 1959 and raised in Great Britain. Bolofo has photographed and made short films for magazines such as Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ. He has created advertising campaigns for companies including Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Dom Pérignon. Bolofo lives in the Vendée, France and his books with Steidl include Venus, I Spy with my Little Eye, Something beginning with S, Vroom!, La Maison and Grande Complications.

He was the first photographer to have been granted unlimited access to the secret workshops of Hermès, the house famous for its leather goods, scarves and insanely expensive handbags. La Maison, itself an elaborate article comprising eleven volumes and the result of seven years' work, showcases Bolofo's painstaking documentation of the Hermès universe. Bolofo is undoubtedly “wellaccomplished. Take a look ata few snapshots of his work and see for yourself.

A photograph from Bolofo’s Venus book featuring Venus Williams.

visionaries

Look at a refreshing perspective of the image makers that is makeup artist as we celebrate those making some Major waves.

Sam Fine

Long before he became a celebrity makeup artist, the Chicago native paid his dues working behind the makeup counter of department stores, an experience he fondly refers to as "the real school of beauty". There he came in contact with women from all walks of life that wanted one thing - to look their absolute best. He made it his mission to show them how to accentuate their unique beauty by using colors and shades that would best complement their complexions. But most importantly he helped them eliminate their doubts and apprehension about applying makeup so that they too could achieve dazzling results.

Fine's talent and determination have taken him far from the makeup counter, making him one of today's most sought after makeup artists. His work has appeared on the covers and pages of Cosmopolitan, Harper's Bazaar, Essence, Vibe and Marie Claire and was chosen as the first African-American spokesperson for Revlon and Covergirl Cosmetics.

Fine has been the hands behind gorgeous faces such as Vanessa Williams, Jennifer Hudson, Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell and Iman for years. Has taught audiences around

the world a thing or two about makeup application through his book, Fine Beauty.

His most recent accomplishment is having been appointed the Creative Director of the legendary Fashion Fair Cosmetics.

Pat McGrath

Pat McGrath has been proclaimed the most influential make-up artist in the industry

by Vogue and other commentators. Though she has no formal training in fashion or make-up, she has an extraordinary talent and is highly demanded by designers and magazine editors worldwide. She was born and raised in Northampton, England by her mother (who was a Jamaican immigrant), Jean McGrath, who she credits for her love of fashion and make-up.

Her career breakthrough came while working on iD magazine in the early 90s. She has since worked with celebrities such as Madonna, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Oprah, and she now regularly collaborates on major fashion advertising campaigns such as Louis Vuitton, Prada, Lanvin, Calvin Klein, and Balenciaga. Her editorial work includes regular shoots with Vogue Italia and American Vogue.

Ashunta Sheriff

Ashunta Sheriff knew she wanted to be a makeup artist at the ripe age of nine. She watched her mother, who also had an obsession for makeup, where the memories of watching her get “dolled up” served as the early inspiration for what would bring her to a successful career in the beauty industry. Born and raised in New York, Ashunta cultivated a love for the fine arts and expressed her creativity through painting, singing and dancing. After receiving a college degree in Cultural Anthropology, Ashunta still found herself pursuing her passion for makeup.

Eventually she landed a job at MAC and quickly moved from the cosmetics counter to the catwalk when she began working backstage for several fashion shows in 1999. Next, Ashunta entrenched herself in her career as a makeup maven for Laura Mercier at Henri Bendel. Through constant referrals, Ashunta became a regular fixture at fashion shows in New York, Paris and London, working backstage where she assisted world

renowned makeup artists, Laura Mercier, Vincent Longo, and Charlie Green. She then worked on an exclusive cosmetics team under her idol, Pat McGrath, to execute the intensely complicated looks created by Ms. McGrath for the fashion houses of Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton. In December 2006, Ashunta signed on as a national makeup artist for Dior Beauty which she describes as “an inevitable partnership.” Her latest achievement is the creation of NR, No Rules Beauty.

She followed Her dream and it led to a beautiful reality.

As you can see the girl has skills. Go Ashunta!

black| Up Cosmetics

model citizen

Many may not view 50 Cent as a major philanthropist but he is on the Board of Directors of the G-Unity Foundation, which provides grants to nonprofit organizations that work to improve the quality of life for low-income and under-served communities.

Not too long ago 50 Cent launched an ambitious campaign called Street King in which he pledged to feed 1 billion hungry children in Africa over five years. “How”, did you say? For every bottle of Street King energy drink sold he will provide a meal for a hungry child in Africa.

At face value this doesn’t seem like a bad deal.

In fact, some folks are wondering why the initiative isn’t receiving more attention.

Take a look at his own words on why he decided to pursue this mission “Some people are born with very little; some are fortunate enough to have it all. When I grew up, we didn’t have much. I had to hustle to get what I wanted… but I had that hunger for more. I didn’t always make the right choices, but I learned from my mistakes. I had to overcome challenge after challenge in order to take my life from nothing to living my dreams. And I’m thankful for that because it

helped mold me into who I am today. That’s why I want to give back to those without, to help make a change in their lives.

Every day, families in Africa go without food and water, never knowing when their next meal might be; but we can change that if we all work together.

In order to make a difference, every purchase of my new energy shot, Street King, will provide a meal for a child in need. In fact, now I’m taking things to the next level: for the next week, to get the word out about what we’re doing, I’m donating one meal…Together, with the UN’s World Food Programme and you, we’re hustling to get to one million Likes and, if we do, I’m going to double my donation to two million meals.

Rarely do you hear the eloquence of a rapper unless he has been accepted by the “status quo” to convey an image other than a “”gangster” but Mr. Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson has shown us in his own words how insightful he actually is. Here’s more.

“How f***** up that we have evidence that the big Banks have been corrupt, yet our governments aren’t punishing those that have stolen from the pension funds. Our Politicians are puppets for whoever pays them into office.

That’s how f***** our system is. Their broken promises for change cant happen especially when the system is corrupt and children who need a meal go without because our politicians won’t stop thinking of themselves long enough or how to win the next election, too look around them and see how bad it is.

“I don’t want to do business with these f****** anymore. Do you? If a company isn’t giving back, stop buying from them. Buy a pair of shoes from TOMS (who give another pair to someone in need), look for companies that aren’t paying lip service to community / charity we are more powerful than the big business and politicians realize……we have the power to stop buying their products, banking with them.

Your dollar, that you worked hard for, does have power. Together we can say – WAKE UP AHOLES! The game is over.”

You aren’t helping Mr. Politician, things are getting worse here in the US, in Europe, Africa everywhere! I’m f**** angry that Children are dying everyday. There’s hard working people out there who do give a s***. Problem is those with the power – government and big business, want this system to keep going. Its suits them.”

50 Cent -Shout out to Occupy Wall Street groups around the world. You are waking up the world, including me. Please keep up the peaceful protest, you are making a difference.

Well said…

tastemakers

An African old proverb that says, “It takes a village to raise a child” but in the entertainment business it takes an entire crew to make a star “hot ta def”! In this new age of constant exposure, people are no longer becoming famous for what they do but how they look so having a competent stylist on hand has become a necessity. Stylists are now a crucial part of a public figure’s team and like any relationship, trust and respect are key. Many become close like family, others go onto making names for themselves. Check out who is at the top of their game.

Becca Alexis

Susan Moses

Charles Wade

Beagy Zelinski

Alexander Allen

Misa Hylton- Brimm

Rachel Johnson

Lloyd Boston

Ugo Mozie

June Ambrose started her styling career doing freebies for clients. In the early nineties she help mold the fashion identities of some of the top hip hop and R&B acts and even did a stint at Jive Records, pulling together looks for R. Kelly and The Backstreet Boys, before moving on to Cross Colors. There she popularized the brand by putting TLC and Kriss Kross in their latest gear before moving on to style pop icon Mariah Carey. Fast forward to today where she is one of Tinseltown’s premiere stylists.

shoe game

Nicole Scherzinger in Tribal Giuseppe Zanotti Curved Platforms

innovateurs

Early African jewelry was seen as as status symbols, spiritual amulets, elaborate shows of personal accomplishments and a way to distinguish between clans. A prime example of this can be seen in the Senufo people of the Ivory Coast, whose women wore chameleon shaped rings and neckpieces handcrafted from copper, for spiritual protection. Early Egyptians, the first makers of beads, used one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces to demonstrate social standing and political beliefs. So much could be read into how early African civilization adorned themselves, from marital status to stances on religion. It may appear at first glance, that these deep meanings have been diluted as jewelry design has evolved over the centuries, but a closer look at today’s talents will reveal otherwise.

Anita Quansah of Anita Quansah London.

But her flair and passion for creativity stems from her early childhood. Growing up, watching and learning from her now late 82 years old grandmother and muse, a renowned seamstress and designer of her time, teaching and running an all women institute of more than 400 students, making the most beautiful clothes/outfits from very interesting and embroidered textiles for royal kings and some of the king’s cabinet. Teaching local women in the community, how to better themselves by taking up home economics, designing and sewing. Her grandmother believes that every woman needs to make use of what they are blessed with which one of them are their “hands”. I guess this has indeed inspired and motivated the designer to now follow her long loved passion for creativity, by stepping into her grandmothers shoes, which to her is very hard to fill.

Anita Quansah London was created in 2006 by UK designer Anita Quansah. After obtaining a textile degree in 2003, from Chelsea College of Art and Design London, Anita Quansah has been working to develop and promote recycling in her designs by creating elaborate one of kind statement jewelry. She is the ”truth”, to say the least.

Her stunning pieces present strong statements, which are a fusion of modern bohemian tribal mixed with her cultural background which is African. No can dispute the “exotic sophistication” of her unique pieces and how much they exude a sense of “African pride”. Her career is a testament to her genius. When Quansah entered the fashion industry she almost immediately began producing works for the likes of DKNY, Diane Von Furstenberg, Ischiko, Victoria Secret, Ecko and textiles Weisbrod Zurrer, Christian Lacroix and Sandy Starkman and being involved with Indigo, Premier Vision in Paris and other such exhibitions.

Her creative instinct and memorable influence has led the designer to successfully obtain her degree and progress into Jewelry making which is self taught by experimenting with many found materials fused with her textile background experience. Her work speaks originality, eclectic, expressive and yet authentic and can be perceived as works of art, all handmade by the designer using recycled and vintage materials fused with gems from around the world, incorporated with mixed metals, silver, gold, gunmetal and the introduction of colorful elements such as rare African beads sourced from Africa, pearls, beads, rhinestones, ribbons and fringing giving the collection a sense of modernity with a hint of the past.

Quansah’s work has gained the attention of many stylists, fashion editors and celebrities alike such as Estelle, Keisha Buchanan, Shingai Shoniwa, Genevieve Nnaji. In April 2010 British Vogue, named her neckpieces as “Best Buy” and also in November 2010, she was nominated for the “Best African Fusion Designer” at the prestigious GUBA awards in London. Since then her designs have been featured in editorials such as German Vogue, Elle Germany, British Vogue, Elle UK.com, Dare2magazine, Fab Magazine, Muse, German

Natalie Holst and Rochelle Lee of Holst + Lee.

Cut25 Head Designer, Anthony Cucculelli adding a Holst & Lee necklace to a Cut25 Spring 2012 look.

The South has a charm like no other. Like many of my creative peers, I am also a southern girl who has moved to New York to pursue her dreams. I think that has been part of the appeal of Natalie Holst and Rochelle Lee of Holst + Lee. Their Brooklyn-based jewelry label Holst + Lee, exemplifies that charm and can be best described as playful statements to celebrate the adventurous side of life. The duo creates their designs using rope, beads and semi-precious stones, resulting in pieces that seems to be the lead into its own ‘tribal-licious’ story. Take a look at a series of their pieces that are simply divine.

The pieces usually average between $400 0r more but, boy, aren’t they worth it?

Mara Hoffman's Spring 2012 New York Fashion Week show Photos: Getty Images

new faces Salieu Jalloh

Carolyn Roumeguere of Jewerly by Carolyn Roumeguere

Even in an ever more globalized world, jeweler Carolyn Roumeguere is especially international. Often revered as the “pioneer of bush glamour”, her childhood in Kenya, is the perfect perquisite to bringing a certain authenticity to her work, With her mother having married a Masai warrior, Roumeguere had the opportunity to learn the beading techniques alongside the women of the Masai. When her African-inspired pieces have caught the attention of Donna Karan, who picked them up for her Urban Zen stores, and the rest became history.

At least, that is, until her next move. Two years ago she decided to pack up and moved her family out of Africa to a little town in the Yucatán where worked on her Spring 2011 collection. There she became entrance with the idea of magic carpets as a means of “thinking positively and knocking down limitations and just going for it.” Talk about courageous. Her line was absolutely enchanting.

Magic carpets tend to be associated with the Middle East, but it’s the traditions of Roumeguere’s new adopted home that are clearly reflected in her new work, with its frequent use of skulls, religious symbols, and various metals, such as rose gold, yellow gold, and tarnished silver. “Everywhere I go, I like to work with techniques that those artisans have had passed down from father to son—that’s what I find interesting,” she said. Not only does she like to use ancient jewelry-making techniques, but also in some cases, the original materials, like the 64 million-year-old fossils she is currently working with.

The designer is currently drafting plans to do a more accessible collection so, she said, “everyone can have a little piece of the magic carpet.” After that? Her next move, naturally: this time, to upstate New York, where she recently bought and is in the process of renovating a giant rustic barn. True to form.

mavericks Nigerian designer, Ituen Basi, makes “happy” clothes. The popularity of her label is akin to the joy her garments brings to people’s lives. She has received worldwide acclaim for her designs because of the streamlined yet feminine silhouettes glorifying ethnicity in a way that is unexpected and never failing. Her accessories line could not have come at a better time with the recent rise of the trend for ornate jewelry and the fashion world’s fascination with ethnic prints.

Basi is still busy weaving her magic using Ankara fabric to create amazing yet incredibly stunning pieces. From her mile long beads, to the adorable short skirts donning a bevy of beauties on the runways. Basi is making the look of “happy”-hot. She clearly has her finger on the pulse of the modern woman of today- regardless of race. Her clothes are for anyone who is ready to embrace the rich culture of the African Diaspora in its full glory.

Ituen Basi

changing the game In spite of last year’s uproar over the comments that Franca Sozzani made regarding Liz Jones of the UK’s Daily Mail article, “Is Fashion Racist?”, where she defends the efforts of a minor few attempting to hire black models in Europe among some other points, one would say that though her perspective may be somewhat “warped” yet she does mean well. She’s is coming from a place that with the principle of “looking for the real motivations and solutions” an employing them.

Unlike its American counterpart, Vogue Italia is known for its nail-biting glamour using models of color. Its ability to push the envelop to deliver the most striking editorials in the fashion industry is a proof of its, editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani’s brilliance. You can see for yourself in a snapshot we have provided from one of their recent “Vogue Black” issues.

Recently she met up with legendary Ghanaian designer, Kofi Ansah, and a group of young designers from the WEB-Young Designers Hub, a new association of local young fashion designers who hosted a private runway show of their collections in her honor.

Sozzani signed autographs and took pictures with the young designers and praised the work of local designers. She further advised the designers on creativity and how to gain recognition and credit for their work. Stated her belief that 2012 will signal a year where every corner of the world would “have no choice but will see more African prints being used, hear about African fashion shows and finally many will rock the garment like never before and not just as a trend.” Sounds promising. But what was even more

promising was her commitment to continue her support to the region. She said to its attendees: “This video could not have put a bigger smile on my face …you have lots of potential in this country (Ghana). During my stay in Africa, I visited Togo and Nigeria but it was only here in Ghana I noted an authentic sense of fashion”.

She also offered some advice, "In designing your creations, make sure that they feature not only references to Ghanaian culture but also have an international appeal so that your garments can also be successful also abroad… high-end brands like Burberry being drawn to the aesthetic. So, we hope the creations from these talented Ghanaians designers make it onto the pages of Vogue Italia...and the clothing racks of some major retailers. There is certainly need (and room) for more fashion designers of color in the market. ”

It shoul also be noted that the iconic Roberto Cavalli also accompanied Sozanni on the trip. So if that is not a clear indication of how far the African fashion industry has come, I don’t know what is.

Africa has enjoyed unprecedented growth over the last few years in fashion. In 2011, Nigeria’s fashion capital, Lagos, has hosted an unprecedented number of fashion weeks (one of the most noted has been ARISE Fashion Week) featuring various designers where a number of retail outlets seem to be popping up daily.

Though Souzzani’s efforts shuld be appauded, please note that there are other global fashion players who are taking note and opportunities for collaboration and editorial coverage is being explored. Of course LRM will always be happy to oblige.

documentaries of note

Dark Girls explores the deep-seated biases and attitudes about skin color that are experienced particularly by dark-skinned women, outside of and within African-American culture.

While the issue certainly isn't brand new, this approach appears to be. Colorism traditionally arises in an adversarial fashion where someone

accuses someone else (perhaps a director, a magazine editor, perhaps all of Hollywood) of embracing unfair standards of beauty that exclude many black women. But Dark Girls seems to take a different angle. Rather than vilifying the perpetrators of bias, the preview shows women being allowed to tell their own stories in a manner

that sends an undeniable message about how nonsensical, painful and historically fraught our stubborn views of skin color and beauty can be. The film was produced by Bill Duke for Duke Media and D. Channsin Berry for Urban Winter Entertainment and was co-produced and edited by Bradinn French. Here’s an excerpt from the film: "I can remember being in the bathtub asking my mom to put bleach in the water so that my skin would be lighter and so that I could escape the feelings I had about not being as beautiful, as acceptable, as lovable.“ "She's pretty for a dark-skinned girl ... What is that supposed to mean?“ "They used to say, 'You stayed in the oven too long.' “ "It was so damaging ... it made it seem like we weren't wanted; that we were less than."

"The racism that we have a people amongst ourselves is a direct backlash of slavery.“ In a recent interview with The RootDC Duke and Berry sat down to discuss the new documentary citing some of their own discoveries during the process of making the film and their revelations were sad yet shocking. To this date the deep-seeded negative implications of slavery continue to perpetuate themselves in how we raise our children, particularly dark-skinned girls.

They admitted how they initially started the project off with a “misguided, a naïve assumption”, that *the topic of dark skin versus light skin+ was only a “domestic issue”. Duke recounted how the horrible institutionalized bias that went on in Harlem, many years ago called the “ flow and blow club”, where a person could get in the club if their skin was not white enough and their hair blew in the wind. “If you didn’t have that, you couldn’t get in, or things like the brown paper bag test. And that really, how can I say, damaging assumptions that lighter is better and darker is not good and the impact that it has on not only us as a culture overall, but our children”.

As they examined research on the issue they discovered that skin bleach cream is a multibillion-dollar business worldwide, in America, Asia, India and Africa. However, given the popularity of celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce and most recently, Nicki Minaj, the cultural landscape has somewhat changed the global perception of beauty. Ironically, while black women are trying to become less ethnic and more white, white women are now risking skin cancer with the constant usage of tanning booths, having their lip Botoxed and getting butt implants to look more ethnic. Right Kim? Dukes concluded that, “somehow (we as people are not) satisfied with who we are as human beings, so therefore we want to be something we’re not…Our position is that God doesn’t make mistakes — how you’re born, how you look, it’s fine.”

As promised, check out an editorial featured in the best selling Vogue issue of all time.

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton

Credit: Editorial by Emma Summerton

what’s poppin’?

Bronzeville Boutique by Lady Mocha opened its doors in 1991. Located in one of the most affluent neighborhoods of Chicago, it has grown into the place where fashion-forward women go to shop. This minority owned-business is a sure example of what happens when one applies hard work to their lie’s passion. After noticing the downward trend of celebrity-centered clothing brands, its owners thought it wise to opt out of trying to “sell clothes” and instead dress people. Subsequently, they watched their clientele quadruple and have managed to do well in spite of the turbulent economy.

Much can be learned from this. Nowadays people don’t want to be sold anything. They have enough stress on their minds without be “hawked to death” when they go out for a little retail therapy. Rather, they want to see things that are they can aspire to have without feeling that it is so far out of their reach. To

that end, Lady Mocha delivers the story of a sophisticated woman about town who wants to get the best value for her hard-earned dollar.

Get your “shop on” with Lady Mocha today!

Bronzeville Boutique by Lady Mocha is located at 4259 S. King Drive in Chicago. Swing by and check them out.

FASHION FAIR

Long times cronies, Toni Hall and Natalie Prather have been “partners in crime” since back in the days when they attended Magruder High School in Gaithersburg, Maryland. Upon graduating they both went their separate directions but through it all remained a cornerstone in each other’s lives. However, when they both finished graduate school they confided in each other out their dream of entrepreneurship and business was born. The ladies are now the proud owners of Size 12, a hip shoe and accessory boutique that specializes in women’s shoes from sizes 10 to 14 at the Gaithersburg’s Lakeforest Mall.

Hall knew first-hand how difficult it was to find designer shoes in large sizes. As an avid shoe lover, she was confident that there were other women that had the same need given the lack of affordable but still flattering footwear in the market. So being the keen business woman that she is she decided that rather than continuing to invest in just shoes, she would invest her money

if the shoe fits into the shoe business. She left the security of running her own interior design practice to open the first Size 12 in the summer of 2010. Initially she faced the obstacles of having to deal with slow traffic and leasing issues . Then an opportunity arose to move to Lakeforest Mall where Hall would then shared her store with another retailer. Soon after about a month of slow business, she was on the verge of giving up until she reached out to Prather.

Hall says "She wasn't always my partner in business but she was always there," Hall says about Prather. "She [Prather used to say, 'don't worry about it, we'll figure something out' and we did.“ So the two put their heads together and decided to relocate from the bottom floor of the mall to the top, then –woolah! Things started to turn around. Since the relocation to Size 12 has been growing into by leaps and bounds.wasz

MIKE

new faces

Grace Bol

my love affair with iris apfel

Apfel in her fabulous threebedroom Manhattan apartment on Park Avenue.

Former interior designer and fashion icon, Iris Apfel spent over six decades in the world of home furnishings. As a leading interior designer, she cofounded the textile company Old World Weavers with her husband Carl. Her wardrobe and jewelry collections have been subjects of many major museum exhibitions. As you can see, I am totally smitten with her. But what is even more striking about Iris is her meager professional beginnings.

Satirically, Apfel didn’t start out to be an interior designer. She studied art history at New York University before graduating of the University of Wisconsin’s school of art s and longed for a career in fashion. But after landing her first job as a $15-aweek copy girl at Women’s Wear Daily, she figured out that chances of advancement there were dubious due to the editors she hoped to someday replace were, as she puts it, “either too old to get pregnant or too young to die.” Then came along an opportunity to work for a “well-connected woman” who renovated up apartments to make them more marketable to sell during the World War II housing

doldrums that followed. In her own frankness Apfel says, “She couldn’t decorate her way out of a shoebox,” but she had a talent for scavenging from junkyards and flea markets the kinds of furniture and fabrics that were hard to come by during the war. Through that experience she realized how the thrill of the hunt became so contagious that she developed a conviction to outdo her employer. It was inspiring. “I realized I had found my calling,” she declares. “Interior design was for me.”

Apfel set up her own design firm after the war’s end citing her distinctive fashion sense as the driving force that attracted her first clients. “I guess people thought if I could decorate myself, I could decorate a room or two.” As fate would have it, her eye for unique furnishings and objects, as well as her facility with color and texture brought her immediate success. “I don’t do run-of-the-mill stuff,” she says, “and I don’t do minimal.” Apfel doesn’t compromise either, in fact, Old World Weavers was born when she

was looking for “a fabric that didn’t exist”. Her need of an overscaled Napoleonic bee on blue silk thrust Apfel and her husband ended up going into business with the master weaver she commissioned to produce it. They sold the company for an undisclosed amount to Stark Carpet in 1992. Today Apfel still follows her passions. On her first buying trip to Florence, she spotted a Velázquez-ish painting of a girl in an opulent brocade gown, very Iris Apfel, her long, fair hair tied with scarlet bows. “I went bananas,” she says. “I fell in love with that child—I loved the ribbons in her hair.”

Crushed to discover the picture was sold, she returned the next day where she found that the shopkeeper was absent and got his assistant to name a price, paid it without a quibble and scooped

up the painting, which now hangs in her apartment. Though she insists that she had never done “such a naughty thing,” she clearly doesn’t feel particularly sorry. Among her vast achievements she has taken part in many design restoration projects, including having worked at the White House for nine presidents: Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon, Kennedy, Johnson, Carter, Reagan, and Clinton.

Apfel may be 90-years-old, but she is showing no signs of slowing down. The fashion maverick, has kept busy with creating a series of flamboyant costume jewelry lines for accessories lover under HSN.com , yoox.com and she recently launched a 20-piece collection for MAC. When asked what was her secret to success, Apfel only uses one word- “passion”. “I don’t care how talented you are if you don’t have the passion to do the work, someone less talented will always out do you. So no matter what you do life- follow your passion.”

(Sigh) You gotta love her.

Follow your passion!

montrer son soutien LRM implores its readers to support the brands featured in this issue who dare to help bring “African chic� to the masses!

For more information on the brands featured in this months issue please visit our blog .

We are, here to serve, to give the design community a way to move forward.

We're here to tell the stories of ordinary practitioners who have overcome extraordinary odds to succeed in this competitive industry. We are also here to speak the truth to those who most need to hear it. As we embark on this journey together, please let us know what's on your mind and how we can better serve you in the years ahead.

Peace & Light!

MPL Design Group LLC

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Le Rapport Minoritaire Magazine-A Subsidiary of The Mme. Pierre-Louis Design Group 2012 TM