TA N G E N T M AG . C O M
ISSUE 2
Over ture
- is Editor Heather Cairns
Director Emmanuel Giraud Beauty Editor Fern Madden Advertising Director Danny Forker Art Designer LLoyd McAlister P.R & Marketing Shinny Chia Web Designer Mourad Zeggari
- with Clive Allwright Amanda Austin Jana Bartolo Geraldine Blanco Martin Bray A.H. Cayley Luana Coscia James Dykes Lucy Edmonds Angus Foggo Susie G Jodi Gardiner Jason Henley
www.tangentmag.com info@tangentmag.com Studio 3, 144 Cleveland St Chippendale NSW 2008 Sydney, Australia
Manoj Jadhav Meghna Kapoor Sebastian Kriete Natasha Kruzycki Bec Lorrimer Kent Mathews Dominique Matta Rachel Montgomery Fernanda Porto Mashoom Singha Emily Sue Yee Desiree Wise Lily Zak
Cover Image: Photography Emmanuel Giraud Styling Heather Cairns Model Ruby at Priscilla’s Make Up Martin Bray Hair Lily Zak On cover Ruby wears Konstantina Mittas hooded jacket and playsuit, Gucci belt, Dinosaur Designs chess piece made as necklace, Dents gloves and stylist’s own tights
ISSUE 2 - Over ture -
[9.] Contributors [10.] Editor’s Letter [12.] Cut it Out! [16.] Thierry Mugler: Fetish Rising [20.] Azzollini: Selling Sex [24.] Sydney Institute: The New Fontier FA S HION [36.] [52.] [64.] [80.] [90.] [98.]
Fashion Fix The Invaders The Forgotten Noble Savage Provocateur Intermission
B E A UTY [110.] [114.] [116.]
Make up War Bobbi Brown Obsession
A R T [124.]
Love + Cosmetic Fedex = Montalbetti + Campbell Kent Mathews: Bestival
[128.] B E ATS [142.] [144.] [150.]
Catcall A Calculated Risk: Kids at Risk Tangent Yourself
Martin Bray - makeup artist What drives you in your work? Creating beauty, whatever shape or form that may be. Finding something a little left of center more beautiful than the expected. Where and with whom will you spend Christmas? In Sydney with my family. My favorite time of year. What would you like to find under the Christmas tree this year? I would not like to open in front of everyone, and I’m not sure if it could be wrapped. Think more along the lines of a giant birthday cake on wheels. What was your favourite moment of 2009? Sitting on a beach in Mexico and having time to take it all in. What is your 2010 NewYears Resolution? To be better, and take notice of what the universe is trying to tell me.
CONTR
A.H Cayley - writer What drives you in your work? Though the sheer joy of writing is like no other feeling, my ability to get things done on time sucks, and I’m eventually driven only by an overwhelming fear of failure and what my editor must think of me. Where and with whom will you spend Christmas? I’ll be in Thirroul having a quiet Christmas lunch with my family, who I don’t get to see often enough since moving to Sydney at 18. Can’t wait. What would you like to find under the Christmas tree this year? I don’t really care. I’m more than happy right now, and shall continue to be happy no matter what I get, or don’t. (Though a pair of Louboutins or something from Agent Provocateur wouldn’t be sniffed at). What was your favourite moment of 2009? Braving the hipsters and the painfully cool to meet a minor acquaintance from out-of-town for drinks in Surry Hills. We fell in love not long after. What is your 2010 New Year Resolution? I am going to like myself an awful lot more this year, despite anyone else’s attempts to have me think otherwise. Go me.
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Lily Zak - hair stylist What drives you in your work? Perfection. Where and with whom will you spend Christmas? Thailand with friends. What would you like to find under the Christmas tree this year? A green card for America. What was your favourite moment of 2009? My birthday. What is your 2010 New Years Resolution? To work as hard as I can in the States.
RIBUTORS Jason Henley -photographerWhat drives you in your work? 1997 subaru forester, otherwise the fine folks our friends the NSW taxi association (plug) to take us to our location… free of charge?!? Where and with whom will you spend Christmas? This will be my first Christmas in Sydney, I will spend it with my beautiful girlfriend, our white albino Guinea Pig Sanchez Alonso and maybe a couple of our closest friends. What would you like to find under the Christmas tree this year? Mr T’s flavorwave oven, what if I really could cook without my pots, pans, stovetop or Micwowave? What was your favourite moment of 2009? Hard to pick one moment, many opportunities have presented themselves and I have been very lucky to continually work with great people some of which have become good friends. What is your 2010 New Year Resolution? To quit smoking so far I’m aceing this as I have yet to start… win!
- EDITORS LETTER Issue n°2 ‘Overture’ An Overture in music is the instrumental introduction to a dramatic composition. Hence we have called the second issue of Tangent Magazine ‘Overture’. It is our fashion sampler. It introduces all the elements we believe will make the fashion world tick in the very near future. There are some definite highlights in the second issue. We have been blessed to have an exclusive interview with Thierry Mugler, on his return to the creative sphere and the spread of fetish inspired fashion. We reveal Australia’s most talented student designers from a competition judged by power players in the Australian fashion industry; Akira Isogawa, Camilla Freeman-Topper, Glynis Traill-Nash and Nicola Finetti. We also caught up with über-stylist and swimwear designer, Michael Azzollini, to discover more about his eye for sex and penchant for daring photo shoots. Our fashion editorials show trend dedication on the rise in ‘Fashion Fix’. Our cover shot, of a model transformed into a chess piece, is taken from this editorial. ‘Fashion Fix’ explores
eight trends expressed to the maximum Leigh Bowery style, from chess board prints to fringing- don’t compromise. . . accessorise! Our other fashion editorials feature fashion aliens, lost romantics and Bollywood princesses. In our beauty section we get up close and personal with Bobbi Brown. Our music content shines the light on two Australian bands who are fastening their seatbelts for a fabulous future. Our art features get as Tangent as possible with an interview with Montalbetti & Campbell and the inclusion of Kent Matthews’s outrageous photographic story ‘Bestival’. There are so many people who need to be thanked for getting our second baby online. Special thanks goes to Natasha Kruzycki for her amazing hair and makeup, Shinny Chia for her die-hard PR and marketing efforts and, of course Emmanuel Giraud the Director, for his fervent creativity and unique vision. So enjoy our introduction to fashion and it’s counterparts for the next three months. The rest is up to you, to compose your own fashion melody. Happy dressing. Heather x
Cut it Out !
Cut it Out !
THIERR
MUGLE FETISH RISING
All photos Peter Lindbergh Sketches Thierry Mugler
Excited by the return of design legend Thierry Mugler, A.H. Cayley explores the thrilling resurgence of fetish style in mainstream fashion.
RY
ER :
L
ast week, I saw a woman on Oxford Street in a tight leather catsuit and a pair of impossibly high heels. She wasn’t going to a gay club; she wasn’t going to the BDSM night Hellfire. She was quite innocently hailing a cab to go to a friend’s house party in Sydney’s Inner West and perhaps without realising it, as she held her hand aloft like a beacon of sartorial revolution, symbolised a powerful change in acceptable fashionable aesthetics and societal mores. Fetish fashion – not seen to this extent since Thierry Mugler first championed it in the ‘90s - is back, and it needn’t hide any longer behind PVC curtains in a well-equipped dungeon. It is the new look, from the street to the catwalk and back again. Flip through the pages of any fashion magazine and you will see the influence of the sexual hedonist in the latest designs: Armani’s striking black silhouettes adorning an androgynous model, accessorised with black patent leather opera-length gloves and a biker style cap; and Balmain’s sharp, structured shoulders and stud detailing upon leather jackets. There’s the “Lady meets Mayfair Tramp” nipped waists, corsets, girdles, bustiers, suspender belts and exposed stocking tops that underpin Dior’s Autumn
‘09 couture collection; and the sharp lapel-to-shoulder detail and belted waist of a black patent leather trench coat featured in Gaultier Paris’ latest couture designs, also paired with matching gloves, ladder-print stockings and a dominatrix pout. Gucci has incorporated the plastic body harnesses of the SM afficianado on otherwise soft and pretty dresses on the Paris runways, and Yves Saint Laurent has even updated the full body catsuit and leather corset for the latest collection. Look to the streets and you will see the same: business women standing tall in the rigidity of a cinch belt or corsetted bustier; young girls fixing their seamed stockings and walking proud and empowered in the character their sharp shoulders and exaggerated figures imbue them. Sky-high heels, once the domain of the body modifier and the foot fetishist, are no longer just the wares of speciality stores like Raben Footwear, but can be found gracing the front windows of Zu and Wittner’s, and even less expensive franchises like Payless. What was once the image of the weird and divisive, the only sexual Other that it is still okay to publically deride (so queer that much of the Queer set won’t accept it in definition), is now the careful aim of the sophisticated fashion follower.
FETISH RISING he fashion world has always taken a leaf from the T fetishist’s style book, from Lagerfeld’s corsetry for Chanel
and the iconic 1973 Helmut Newton portrait of Yves Saint Laurent’s suited model in a Parisian alleyway, a nude in only heels and a hat standing beside her, to Gareth Pugh’s fixation on gimp suits and face masks, but never has it been as widespread as this. Certainly, there have been other holders of the torch – Vivienne Westwood’s designs, from her punk and bondage days in the Sex boutique to her 1985 Pirate collection, have always employed a fetishistic air, or Alex McQueen’s powerful creations and shock tactics, from his s/s ‘94 graduate collection and a/w ‘95’s “Highland Rape” to his very latest work. Rising above them all, however, is the king of fetish fashion, the man who truly brought it mainstream and now returns to re-inform a wider audience, Thierry Mugler. Mugler thrilled the fashion world with news of his return to high couture design for Beyonce’s “I Am...” Tour, and the result was nothing short of amazing. As she strutted in fitted corsets dripping in Swarovski crystals, posed in PVC and plexiglass and flew suspended above the crowd in a gorgeously harsh pair of stiletto ballet boots, she was the very definition of the “Mugler woman”, as outlined by Mugler himself in an exclusive Tangent interview. “For me, Beyonce represents a ‘modern warrior’,” he states. “A free spirit and a free woman. She takes life in her hands ... She is also a real beast on stage with an extraordinary energy ... This is the reason why I wanted to design for her some strong and sexy outfits, but also ultra feminine, to let her reveal her glamourous side.” It is this duality that Mugler so effectively portrayed, and epitomises fetish style: the contradictingly sharp curves, the accentuation of the body and its contours. A person in something as simple as a corset could equally be a Dom – a strong, striking figure, the object of desire and fantasy – or a sub – a character physically confined into an exaggerated
form, restricted in movement and therefore in choice; invitingly vulnerable, though owning one’s desire. It is the motivation that defines the roleplayer, rather than the act or the image, but it is the image that best gets one into character. It is exactly to this concept of the “second skin” - the sartorial alter ego – that Tangent subscribes, as does Mugler; kink fashion being the most obvious example. “An outfit can make you feel good in your skin, confident, or set up an attitude, a message. In that respect, yes, it can be an alter ego,” offers Mugler, before outlining the relevance of the “second skin” in erotica. “Erotica is a very personal perception that comes from people and their clothing, subject to interpretation ... I love energetic women, willing and seductive. I have always tried to represent women as mastering their own destiny and knowing their body, hence a notion of femininity that comes out of it and that has to be valourised: sexy without vulgarity. Being conscious about your own body is a step towards self respect and towards others as well. It is maybe what was missing in some of the overly standardised fashion - uniformed, and a bit sad - of these past years where everyone is dressed the same way.” With fetish style becoming so pervasive, to the extent that even a wholesome, Christian, monogamous good girl like Beyonce would wish to be seen and unquestioningly celebrated in the facade of the fetishist – such a wonderfully subversive concept – one can not help but wonder how far this look will go, and be accepted. Does Mugler perhaps have a prediction for where the fashion world will take it in 2010? “I prefer not to talk about fashion in general. I am working on my next show.” And that, dear reader, is perhaps the most thrilling part of all.
AZZOLLINI Selling Sex
Michael Azzollini has an eye for sex. Expensive sex. The sort of sex you have on a private yacht harboured in Saint Tropez. Wearing nothing but an Azzollini swimsuit of course. Heather Cairns talks to the über stylist and notorious swimwear designer about his signature aesthetic, luxe swimwear and dressing Paris Hilton straight out of prison . . . . You can always spot Azzollini’s work; provocative models, leather, latex, cinched waists, high heels and an overdose of attitude. He has styled for a myriad of magazines, being featured in Harper’s Bazaar, Oyster and Cream on a regular basis. He has been a personal stylist for Brittney Spears and dressed the likes of Keanu Reeves. His eponymous swimwear label, which he runs with business partner Kate Nicholes, has gained acclaim for its signature prints, audacious cuts and ability to find its way to the wardrobes of the rich and famous. TM: How can you explain your sexual aesthetic? MA: “I have always wanted the men and women I style to look powerful, confident and in control. I hate images of women looking vulnerable and innocent when you are trying to sell an image or a product, it looks contrived. Most of my friends are strong opinionated individuals, and that’s what I am attracted to. My work has to reflect my aesthetic or it’s just not worth doing. “ TM: What do you try to say about fashion through your work? MA: I like to show the extremes in my work. If I am going to style a suit story the suits have to be almost unwearable (cinched in at the waist and corseted etc). I like the person who is viewing my work to be transported to an area of fashion they may have never considered before. I aim to encourage the reader to try something new in their own fashion lives. I am a teacher......he he. TM: How has being an experienced stylist influenced your designs? MA: My designs have definitely been influenced by my styling
Image credit: Troyt Coburn for Azzollini Calender
work. Within every AZZOLLINI collection I design at least six costumes that are almost never produced, yet every cool stylist and magazine shoots them. I work with extremely talented graphic artists to design all our prints. You can always spot an AZZOLLINI print as they are not bought from mass printing factories. I am also known by many stylists and celebrities that call for my collection to use in shoots and personal use. When Paris Hilton first came out of prison she was photographed wearing AZZOLLINI, when she went surfing......it was in every magazine and newspaper for about three weeks, I could not pay for that kind of advertising. TM: Your AZZOLLINI swimwear campaigns and calendars are always very provocative, how does this express the AZZOLLINI man/woman? What is your inspiration for your AZZOLLINI images? MA: My campaigns and calendars are my baby. Being a stylist I always know how I wanted my label to look in print. Strong, bold, sexy, new, inspirational, the leader of the pack....and I think I have achieved this. I have learnt a lot from my business partner, Kate Nicholes. She is the person in my ear constantly reminding me that at least four of the images have to be a tool to sell product. I have the best photographers in Australia wanting to work on the AZZOLLINI calendar; this is because the calendar is so strong and beautiful. I don’t really have an inspiration for the calendar every year, other than I know how I don’t want it to look......all the other swim brands.
TM: Where do you see the future of Australian fashion? MA: Australian fashion has come a long way. Every year there are at least two new designers that emerge as ‘talent to watch’. I think Australia is a great testing ground, if you can make it here you can make it anywhere, Australians are very harsh on their own designers (unless it’s at supermarket prices!). I hope that Australia continues to grow as a fashion talented land.
‘I like to show the extremes in my work. If I am going to style a suit story the suits have to be almost unwearable (cinched in at the waist and corseted etc). I like the person who is viewing my work to be transported to an area of fashion they may have never considered before.’ TM: What do you have planned in the future for your work as a stylist and your work as a designer? MA: I am so busy at the moment .I don’t know how long it will last but I am happy for the ride. I love styling and it shows. I have never had a sick day, if I am sick I still turn up for work.
I am trying to grow my business overseas as I feel that I have exhausted Australia with the amount of stockists available. I am also looking at introducing a capsule clothing range. I want AZZOLLINI to become a global swim brand that would include towels, umbrellas, bags and cool cover ups, in an AZZOLLINI way of course. TM: What has been the reach of your label overseas? MA: I have a few International stockists including Henri Bendel, American Rag, Kitson, ASOS, Lane Crawford, Elizabeth Charles and a few smaller boutiques in Miami , it is a huge market that we are only now seriously beginning to explore. We have left this for a while as we needed to know we could handle a huge order from a department store if needed, we can! TM: What do you feel has been your best work? MA: My last job! In the world of a stylist your best job should always be your last. It is the job that everyone remembers and it will be the job that determines subsequent work. I nearly had the opportunity to work with Grace Jones when she was in Australia recently, I was on hold for her concerts but Grace used a family friend instead , if I had of gotten that job I would have said that job.....but I didn’t get , so I cant .........I love Grace’s style !!! One gets the feeling that had Grace Jones been styled by Azzollini, it would have been something of a fashion orgasm. AZZOLLINI store BONDI BEACH, 152 Campbell parade ph: +612 9387 8141 www.azzollini.com.au
Image credit: Georges Antoni for Azzollini Calender
- The New Frontier The Sydney Institute Fashion Design Studio unearths Australian fashion legends. Designers such as Akira Isogawa, Alex Perr y, Nicky Zimmerman and the industry’s breakout star Dion Lee, all studied at this exclusive design school. When The Sydney Institute Fashion Design Studio’s annual eveningwear parade took place this year in 2009, all industr y eyes were on the new recruits and their capabilities.
Judges (lL to R) Designer Camilla Freeman-Topper wears own label Camilla and Marc. Fashion Features Director of Grazia, Glynis Traill-Nash wears Willow jacket and An Ode to No One dress. Designer Nicola Finetti wears own clothes.
Top Row L-R: Catherine wears; Chrisopher Dobosz jacket, Christopher Dobosz dress, Najo ring. Chrystal wears; George El-Sissa dress. Georgia wears; Katie Salib dress and Dents gloves. Bottow row L-R: Christopher Dobosz, George El-Sissa and Kaite Salib all wear; Bloch unitards (customised with patterns by stylist), Converse shoes and Dents gloves.
T
his year the burgeoning third year students were under the shrewd eyes of four judges who all play a significant role in engineering the Australian fashion industry. The esteemed judging panel was comprised of designers Akira Isogawa, Nicola Finetti, Camilla FreemanTopper and Grazia’s newly appointed Fashion Features Director, Glynis Traill-Nash. This year the annual eveningwear parade took place at Sydney’s beautiful and historic Strand Arcade. Third year designers had to showcase an original garment which adhered to a theme. The theme for 2009 was ‘A Passion for Purity’. Each year, the challenge is to design and
George El-Sissa - 1 st How does your design reflect the “A Passion for Purity Theme? My Design was inspired by the birth of a butterfly emerging from a cocoon. I also adapted the contour strips of the bodice from pure liquid metal so it looks like its dripping over the wearer’s body. What have been some of the innovative fashion techniques and methods used for your creation? My Entire dress was hand sewn including the appliqué of the silk metal strips, ruffles and zipper. What drives your desire to design? To better understand the female form by creating a show stopping number that will make the wearer feel amazingly beautiful. You have just finished your final collection, can you tell us about your inspiration for the collection and your key pieces? 6 words – Avant-Garde, glamour, liquid, beauty, sparkle and sexy. What do you love and hate about Australian fashion? I love that there is a huge range of innovative designers getting noticed around the industry, and I hate that there isn’t a big market for red carpet glamorous couture gowns in Australia. What are your plans for the future? My ultimate dream would be to have a high end fashion haute couture label and dress the stars with red carpet show stopping gowns in Australia and around the world. And also create high end ready to wear collections. Which both would be shown in Paris.
construct one original, cutting-edge garment, which exhibits the best of their individual signature style and reflects their own interpretation of the theme. Sometimes when a creation is so great it gains strength more powerful than its creator could have predicted. Tangent Magazine has shown the three winning master pieces here along with their humble creators. We caught up with the three promising talents, George El-Sissa (1st place), Katie Salib (2nd place) and Christopher Dobosz (3rd Place) and delved into their designer minds on techniques, desire and the Australian fashion industry. If the success of last year’s winner, Soeli Pedrozo, who has been picked up by style maven Belinda Seper for the prestigious Corner Shop, is anything to go by, I’d keep your watch on these three talents.
Katie Salib - 2 nd How does your design reflect the ‘Passion for Purity’ theme? My concept emerged from the absolute essence of purity; my design is raw and unspoilt. I have explored ideas that remain untouched in the realm of fashion; this adds a level of conceptual purity to my gown. What have been some of the innovative fashion techniques and methods used for your creation? I chose to weave 100% natural horse hair through an open cotton lace; I manipulated the lace and horsehair to make a structured evening gown. What drives your desire to design? The chance to be creative and experimental through designing and making clothes. You have just finished your final collection, can you tell us about your inspiration for the collection and your key pieces? I was inspired by a Cirque du Soleil show called “O” that I saw in Las Vegas. Water was an integral part of the show, and my range pieces reflect different elements of water through soft draping. What do you love and hate about Australian fashion? I love that its fast paced, exciting and always changing. I hate that we don’t have a big couture market here as opposed to Europe. What are your plans for the future? I would love to work immediately in the industry and learn from experienced designers. Eventually I want to study further to develop my skills.
Christopher Dobosz - 3 rd How does your design reflect the ‘Passion For Purity’ theme? Design intent was to create an interpretation of a Frida Kahlo self portrait, an artist with amazing passion and pure thought. What have been some of the innovative fashion techniques and methods used for your creation? The vest was made from snake skin petals and the silk dress was punched by hand. What drives your desire to design? I think simply a need to create. You have just finished your final collection, can you tell us about your inspiration for the collection and your key pieces? My collection is an adaptation of Oscar Wildes’ gothic horror story “the portrait of dorian gray”......... it’s a lot of fun. What do you love and hate about Australian fashion?I think distance is a bit of a problem..... however this can allow us to create our own unique style..... I think Australian fashion is honest. What are your plans for the future? Whatever the future holds.
Catherine wears; Christopher Dobosz couture jacket and dress, Nicola Finetti shoes and Najo ring.
Georgia wears Katie Salib couture dress, dents gloves and Samantha Wills ring
Catherine wears; Christopher Dobosz couture jacket and dress, Nicola Finetti shoes and Najo ring. Chrystal wears; George El-Sissa couture dress. Georgia wears Katie Salib couture dress, dents gloves and Samantha Wills ring.
Photographer Emmanuel Giraud at MissBossyBoots Stylist Heather Cairns Makeup Natasha Kruzycki Hair Luana Coscia Photographer’s assistants Claire Wallman, Shinny Chia Styling assistant A H Cayley Hair assisntant Tom Henley Models Catherine Torres at Priscilla’s Georgia Fowler at Priscilla’s Chrystal Copland at Priscilla’s
Chrystal wears; George El-Sissa couture dress
FASH
HION
Emmanuel Giraud / Heather Cairns
FASHION F I X TAKE A TREND, TURN IT UP TURN IT OUT BEFORE IT TURNS YOU OVER
FRINGE Stylestalker body suit, Camilla fur vest, Master/Slave boots earrings made by stylist
FLORAL Gossip jacket, Roberto Cavalli bustier, Galliano shoes, floral skirt made by stylist, Pleasure State underwear, Dinosaur Designs earrings and purple ring, Diva corsages around neck, Diva flower rings, stylists own stockings
WILD Grace & Hart dress, Jimmy Choo shoes, Dinosaur Designs necklace, Christian Dior Couture bracelet
BOWS Master/Slave corset, Mrs Press underwear, stylist’s own shoes and bows
CHESS Konstantina Mittas hooded jacket and playsuit, Gucci belt, Dinosaur Designs chess piece made as necklace, Dents gloves and stylist’s own tights
PAINT Konstantina Mittas dress, Dinosaur Designs necklace
BLING Grace & Hart dress, Gossip jacket Gucci shoes, Peter Lang necklace worn as eye piece and Swarovski necklace
VOLUME Bowie dress
Photographer Emmanuel Giraud at MissBossyBoots Stylist Heather Cairns Makeup Martin Bray at Look Production Hair Lily Zak Set Designer Domonique Matta Photographic Assistant Mason Mulholland Styling Assistant Sinem Coban Special thanks to Mitchell Road Auction Models Elena at Chic, Olga at Priscilla’s, Kuei at Vivien’s, Shelby at Scene, Ruby at Priscilla’s, Scarlett at Priscilla’s, Beth at Chic, Hannah at Chic.
THE THE INVADERS INVADERS
PHOTOGRAPHY JASON HENLEY FASHION JANA BAR TOLO
Carla wears: JUST CAVALLI Top MASTER/SLAVE Skirt TRIMODE Gold Ring MIMCO Earrings Jessica wears: ALEX PERRY Corset and skirt SKALLI Ring ZOEMOU studded leather piece worn as bolero
CARLA wears JUST CAVALLI heavily sequined dress CHELSEA DE LUCA dove earrings
Carla wears: GEORGE ELSISSA Vest JUST CAVALLI heavily sequined dress BEAU COOPS Shoes throughout Jessica wears: PETER LANG earings ALEX PERRY dress SWAROVSKI bracelet TRISTAN BLAIR Shoes throughout
Jess wears: MASTER/SLAVE Couture Dress ALANNAH HILL Chocker PETER LANG Neckpieces & Earrings JUICY COUTURE ring
Carla wears: ALEX PERRY dress ZOEMOU Belt PETER LANG Neckpiece BUTLER & WILSON Earrings MIMCO rings
Jessica wears; WORLD star suit SWAROVSKI Necklace MIMCO Earrings
Jessica wears: WORLD star suit MIMCO Earrings JUST CAVALLI Bag SWAROVSKI cuff Carla wears: ALEX PERRY Jacket C’N’C COSTUME NATIONAL Skirt REGINA GARDE Ring PETER LANG Earrings
Carla wears: SRETSIS Dress PETER LANG neckpiece SKALLI Earrings REGINA GARDE Ring TRIMODE Ring Jessica wears: SUZY O’ROURKE top hat PETER LANG Neckpiece, earrings and cuff ALEX PERRY Dress
PHOTOGRAPHER JASON HENLEY www.jasonhenleyonline.com STYLIST JANA BARTOLO www.janabartolo.com MAKE UP DESIREE WISE at NETWORK AGENCY HAIR CLIVE ALLWRIGHT at NETWORK AGENCY MODELS JESSICA CLIVE at PRICILLA’S, CARLA H at CHADWICK
THE
Emmanuel Giraud / Heather Cairns
FORGOTTEN
Sima wears; Wheels & Dollbaby dress and gloves, Hatmaker headpiece, Alannah Hill scarf. Lukas wears; Ultimate Body corset
Yasmin wears; Alannah Hill dress, Wheels & Dollbaby tutu (worn underneath), Hatmaker hat, Wheels & Dollbaby gloves. Sima wears; Stolen Girlfriends Club dress, Alannah Hill headband (worn around wrist), stylist’s own stockings.
Lukas wears; Alistair Trung top and leggings, Subfusco scarf
Yasmin wears; Nicola Finetti dress. Sima wears; Akira dress
Sima wears; Willow bustier, Wayne Cooper skirt, Costume National shoes, Morrison head piece. Lukas wears; Dan Jones beaded singlet, Jack London pants, Roberto Cavalli shoes, K Karl Lagerfeld belt. Yasmin wears; Morrison dress, Nicola Finetti boots, stylists own stockings.
Sima wears; Alex Perry dress, Diesel boots, Wheels & Dollbaby gloves. Lukas wears Alistair Trung top
Yasemin wears; Willow dress, Toni Maticevski shoes, Alannah Hill head band (worn as necklace), stylists own gloves
Yasmin wears; Alex Perry dress,, Peter Lang earrings, Lukas wears; Akira Isogawa shrug, Ultimate Body corset, Alistair Trung leggings
Yasmin wears; Alex Perry Jacket, Hatmaker hat, Vanessa Bruno shoes, Miracles Suit underwear, stylist’s own stockings
Photographer Emmanuel Giraud at MissBossyBoots Stylist Heather Cairns Makeup Natasha Kruzycki Hair Lily Zak Set Designer Domonique Matta Photographic Assistants Samm Armstrong Mason Mulholland Styling Assistants Rhiannon Bullley Sinem Coban Special thanks to Mitchell Road Auction Models Sima at Chic Yasmin at Chic Lukas at Priscilla’s
Sima wears; Galliano heels
Diesel pant, Sass & Bide cape, Chinese reading glasses Kashgar
NOBLE
SAVAGE PHOTOGRAPHY AMANDA AUSTIN STYLING EMILY SUE YEE
Diesel jacket, knit vest from Purl Harbour, Alistair Trung pant, 2 by Lyn & Tony necklaces
Gucci sweater, Oroton mesh necklace, Akha women’s head dress from Kashgar
Alistair Trung top and belt, Gucci scarf, Homies linen pant from Zambesi
Afghan coin hat from Kashgar, Palm Springs in Bordeaux knit from Zambesi
Alistair Trung linen shirt and cardigan, Diesel shorts and belt
Photographer Amanda Austin at Network Agency Stylist Emily Sue Yee www.krop.com/emsueyee Hair Clive Allwright at Network Agency Makeup Jodi Gardiner at Look Production Model Jakub Vasak at Priscilla’s
Torso in Tile singlet from Zambesi, Gucci trousers, Alistair Trung necklace, Gucci bracelet
PROVOCATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY BEC LORIMMER FASHION LUCY EDMONDS
Photographer Bec Lorrimer www.beclorrimer.com Stylist Lucy Edmonds Make Up and Hair Rachel Montgomery at Arthouse Creative using Phillip B Hair Products & Emani Make Up Model Hayley Magnus at Chic Photographic Assistant Jordan Morris Special Thanks Studio Twenty4
Vintage silk trench from Shag, Stockings stylists own.
Vintage ruffle neck shirt from shag, Tigerlily swimsuit, Vintage Burberry heels from Pelle shoes. Karen Walker gold sunglasses, vintage ring from Shag
Kirrily Johnston khaki coat, Guilty Brotherhood crème and black jacket, Lascivious lingerie from Dirty Pretty Things
Guilty Brotherhood hounds tooth coat, Vintage Burberry heels.
Bra from Chantal Thomas, Kloset rosette skirt, Rhinestone circle earrings
INTERMISSION Bollywood theatre; house lights up, a private moment between thoughts and time. PHOTOGRAPHY MANOJ JADHAV STYLING MEGHNA KAPOOR
Purple Dress Vibgyor Headpiece Little shilpa Tribal necklace Amrapali
Top with detachable shawl Vibgyor Head piece Little shilpa Shoes Aldo
Cotton Jersey Dress: Shrea , Necklace and armlet: Amrapali, Shoes: Aldo
Draped Silk Dress: Shrea Necklace: Amrapali Shoes: Aldo Headpiece: Little Shilpa
Shoulder Piece & Accessories - Little shilpa
Tribal Jewellery - Amrapali
Photographer Manoj Jadhav Styling Meghna Kapoor Model Mashoom Singha Make up & Hair Geraldine Blanco
BEA
UTY
(L-R): Model Co Satin Lip Couture Lipstick in Peony $28 Model Co Sun Sponge $49, MOR lip balm in Rose Bud $19.95, Napoleon Deco Deluxe lip glosses in Raspberry Peach, Strawberry and Watermelon $49 (set of five) Model Co Shimmer Airbrush Illuminiser $26
MAKEUP WAR!
PHOTOGRAPHY SEBASTIAN KRIETE at Reload STYLING Heather Cairns
“Buy your make up Stack it up Never share and you’ll have good luck”
“Beauty is a game She who dies with the most product wins”
(Clockwise from Left): Bobbi Brown SPF 15 Tinted Moisturizer $68 , MAC eyeliner in Sense of Style $32, Bobbi Brown Extreme Party Mascara $48 MOR Freia lip balm (comes in box) $24.95, MAC eye shadow in Love Lace $32, MAC eye lashes #44 $18
“Never ever turn your back�
(Clockwise from Left): Napoleon Deco Deluxe lip gloss in Tangerine (part of set of five $49), MOR Hand and Body Lotion Freia $49.95 MAC eye shadow in Embark $32 Bobbi Brown Glitter Lip Balm Palette $90 Jane Iredale Brush-Me Bronze bronzing powder $87, Napoleon purse size brushes (come with gold purse) $35, Jane Iredale Chocoholicks lip glosses in Truffle, Chocolate and Caramel (part of set of 4)$90
Photographer Sebastian Kriete Stylist Heather Cairns Beauty Editor Fern Madden
BOBBI BROWN - The Face Behind the Brand BY FERN MADDEN
B
obbi Brown’s love affair with makeup began at an early age when she discovered her mother’s collection of cosmetics. “ My mum always intrigued and inspired me with her glamour and her beauty rituals. “recall’s Brown “her style was very 60’s, sexy, twiggy and mod”. An inspiration, which would serve as the seed from which a future make-up empire would grow.
able and down to earth make-up artist earned her instant credibility with the fashion industry’s elite and propelled her into make-up artist Super-stardom. Always one to share her good fortune, Brown partners a charity for under privileged women (Dress For Success). The aim of the foundation is to provide the recipients with attractive clothing, makeup and grooming techniques for job interviews, including a full ‘how to’ make-over (performed by volunteer Bobbi Brown make-up artists).
Driven by her passion to learn to ‘use makeup as a tool’, Brown went on to study the art of theatrical makeup at Emerson College in Boston. “A friend of my dads told me about Emerson…I always say that when I found Emerson, I found myself” says Brown.
In 1991 Brown created the brand Bobbi Brown Essentials. Born out of necessity and frustration at the “lack of flattering beauty products” available to women at the time, Brown teamed with a chemist to design her ‘debut’ range.
In 1980 Brown packed her bags and set off for the ‘bright lights’ of the worlds most famed and fabulously kitsch Iconic fruits, the big apple. Fresh from college and armed with a tiny portfolio and a ‘brush roll’ Brown took her first steps into the fashion world, head first. “ One of the best things I had going for me was that I was so naïve” recalls Brown “I never even thought of not being able to do it”.
From its earliest creation Bobbi Brown Essentials fast proved itself to be a staple must have among Industry insiders, Celebrities and consumers alike. “(This success is due to) a pared-down, simple concept (and) wearable colors that make it easy for women to look their best,” says Brown. “ When a woman walks into a room, you should see her and not her make-up”.
It is of little wonder that nowadays Brown is dubbed ‘the darling of the makeup world’ As from earliest forays into the industry- Brown’s reputation as a talented, approach-
Here Brown tells of her inspirations and reveals the secrets behind make-up trend forecasting and to creating a successful make-up brand.
FM: Do you see yourself as a pioneer- in bringing to the world, and to the average person’s make-up bag, a ‘new style’ in make-up? BB: My beauty philosophy is simple: I believe that makeup is a way for women to look and feel like themselves, but prettier and more confident. When I first started my makeup line, I didn’t realise how revolutionary this philosophy was. To me, make-up was never something that should be used to hide or cover your features. Do you think that unforeseen changes such as: The Global Economic Crisis, contributes to the changing direction of the trends in make-up and fashion in general? I do think the economic recession has had a significant effect on the cosmetics industry. We’re seeing customers spending more on practical basics. They’re buying the products that they know they’ll use until the very last drop, like concealer (a little bit under the eye makes you look fresh and well-rested) or lipstick (a neutral shade that mimics the natural colour of your lips is an easy way to instantly look more polished). When customers shop at Bobbi Brown, they get the added value of expert advice. Rather than offering makeovers, we offer make-up lessons because we believe in empowering women with the knowledge they need to be their own make-up artists.
In your opinion who or what dictates each new trend? for example dewy skin, peachy cheeks, or berry stained lips. Trends come and go each season, but I much prefer classic, iconic styles. Most of my favorite products – from Prada loafers to drugstore products like Chapstick and Ivory Soap – are classic and will never go out of style. Where do you see the direction of makeup going in the - Next five to ten years? Women have always wanted and will always want to look like themselves, only prettier and more confident. What has been the favorite moment in your life so far? My happiest, proudest moments have been the birth of each of my three sons.
Bobbi Brown’s products are sold in over 400 stores and twenty countries worldwide. Brown is the exclusive beauty editor of The Today Show and a frequent guest on the E! And Style channels. She is the author of Bobbi Brown Beauty: the ultimate beauty resource, Bobbi Brown Teenage Beauty, and Bobbi Brown Beauty Evolution.
Emmanuel Giraud / Emily Sue Yee
OBSESSION
Tanya wears Cybele Honeycomb Kite dress Peter Lang brooch Bruce wears Harry Who fur coat Bally belt
Bruce wears Alistair Trung sweater Zambesi pant, Peter Lang bracelet
Tanya - Tato & Memi Trench coat
Tanya wears Alistair Trung dress Sretsis Daisy Cami bra, Peter Lang belt Bruce wears Stolen Girlfriends Club “Gang Land” knit
Photographer Emmanuel Giraud at MissBossyBoots Stylist Emily Sue Yee Hair/Makeup artist Fern Madden Models Tanja G at Chic Bruce at Priscilla’s
AR
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C + cosmic Fedex
LOVE
= MONTALBETTI & CAMPBELL
“ In a way we are moving with technology ”
T
Montalbetti & Campbell disqualify the idea that you can’t mix business with pleasure. The dynamic couple have been creating memorable images since the late seventies. They are well renowned for images which create fashion worlds and for their ability to make advertising images that shock. Fernanda Porto talks more to the creative duo on their body of work which is currently showing at the Australian Centre of Photography in Paddington, Sydney. Montalbetti & Campbells’ long lasting partnership began in the late 70’s in Vancouver, Canada. Back then, Denis Montalbetti was studying engineering and Gay Campbell was working as a fashion model. From the beginning the duo knew they had something special and a great deal of common interests, from cycling to photography. The latter naturally evolved into collaborative work. Initially their collaboration consisted of Denis taking photos and Gay working as a stylist. After Denis spent a season working overseas assisting other photographers, the then newlyweds decided to take a gamble and start their own photography business – Montalbetti & Campbell.
“ We work in a team of people and we make sure everybody come together as fellow Creatives – just simply doing our best in order to bring whatever that idea was to life ” When asked what Montalbetti adds to Campbell and Campbell to Montalbetti? The twosome shared, that the 30 year partnership has found it’s way through time and today the whole creative process seems quite structured. “I’m heavily involved on the pre-planning, logistic part of the shoot. I play with the lights and the cameras”,
Montalbetti says. “I’m involved with the creative and postproduction part of the job”, Campbell completes. The pair also mentioned the importance of stylists and other inputs of creative people to the final outcome. “We work in a team of people and we make sure everybody comes together as fellow creatives – just simply doing our best in order to bring whatever that idea was to life.” The next topic on the table for discussion, was digital technology, and how it plays a big role in their work. They admit that having a partnership with Canon and working with other digital technologies has influenced their work for the better, “In a way we are moving with technology. Digital gave us the ability to find what we are doing. It creates confidence specially when we are directing people and you might ask them to do things they feel uncomfortable with... They can see themselves on the monitor and can see that it’s translating into great imagery. In the end it works for all of us.” Campbell states. There is a distinguished style and vision of fashion blending with art within their work. A philosophy Tangent Magazine relates very much to – I asked the couple what is their vision of fashion within photography? Campbell replies, “Fashion is changing, what we were doing in the past was different. Today things are becoming more creative and people are looking at things more alternatively. We have a different perspective which I hope is more broad than it is restrictive when working with fashion. We admire works that have the ability to look at things in a manner they wouldn’t be typically used to. Creating an alternative reality for us all to get to and be part of.” Montalbetti & Campbell are showcasing their work at the Australian Centre of Photography in Sydney until end of January 2010. Through the work exhibited you can see their involvement and evolvement with technology. Also being shown their latest photos from the series ‘Anatomy’, a ‘cosmic fedex’ that was sent to Campbell while still living back in New York and it has flourished in this astonishing blend of portraits with illustrations. The inspiring couple will be venturing themselves through the land of hope and dream once again. Returning to their beloved NYC to keep moving forward and being challenged within their work!
BESTIVA L BESTIVAL KENT MATHEWS
For the past five years in the month of September, thousands of personas, alter-egos and characters of the general public’s popular culture or imagination live it up at Bestival. The location for this feast of glitter, fake blood and distinguished embellishments is the Isle of Wight, situated in England’s South East, about two hours from central London. The three day extravaganza was envisioned by DJ/music entrepreneur Rob da Bank in collaboration with creative wife Josie da Bank, Ziggy and John from Get Involved. Since year one Bestival has been getting two thumbs up from the crowd, winning various awards such as Best Medium Festival category by UK Festival Awards four years in a row. The festival is also holding the extraordinaire world record for the Biggest Fancy Dress Party with 10,000 people dressed as Cowboys & Indians in 2005. Eclectic line-ups, good vibrations and a whole new world to be discovered through the land of Bestival has it’s consequence - avid followers! A living proof of this attachment is the project developed by Bestival goers – Sydney based photographer Kent Mathews and London based photographer Dan Smith. Sharing the festival spirit since it’s birth, both were always interested in developing a project that could portray the magic behind Bestival. The collaboration arouse this year after getting approval from the da Bank couple. The photography duo set up a tent and shot a series of 300 portraits over a period of 48 hours - from famous to randoms. The style of the portraits were inspired by Richard Avedon’s In the American West photo series – placing the custom crusaders in a clean blank environment, shooting in a flat light, allowing an x-ray of details of the subject matter for the viewer. This phenomenal series captures the rawness and softness of human expression leaving you in a state of awe. A coffee table book will be published showcasing the series along with an exhibition that will be held in May 2010. Fernada Porto.
cont...
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CAT
CALL
From frenetic punk to poppier pastures, Sydney musician Catherine Kelleher, aka Catcall has be tur ning heads with her tunes for years. Tangent mag caught up with the ar tist to talk about the new album, her famous tour friends and public nudity.
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any musicians are utterly incapable of sitting still, they tap and pat and jiggle, compelled by the beats in their head. Kelleher is not one of them, there’s an energy that bubbles behind her eyes, but she sits patiently in make-up, and her answers are exuberant, but considered. “I always dreamed of doing music as a way of life, but I couldn’t see it happen as it did… it was really organic,” she tells me. Raised on Rage, Kelleher has always been keen on music. During high school a lack of any formal music training kept the artist away from the stage but, as she grew older her greenness around guitars became less problematic. “I had this urgency to find my people,” she explains of a decision to form a band straight out of school. “We couldn’t really play, but we started anyway, and the thing is now I have that ability, and it’s not about training because you can learn to play as you go.” I wondered if her reluctance to perform at first had anything to do with the gender imbalance in music.
“A few years ago, the women in music well, they didn’t do much except sing. Everything was slick and bland and written for them by people behind the scenes,” she muses. “But I think the playing field is levelling now… men had more opportunities in the past, but now there are so many women out there who have creative control over their careers. They’re doing their own thing and producing really great alternatives to that processed stuff.” Kelleher is speaking first hand when she describes pop’s new bread of creatively super-charged ladies; she’s toured with many of them. “They’re my people,” she says of going on tour with acts like The Gossip, La Roux and lately Phoenix. “They’re all really honest and true to themselves and they just love music.” Recently Kelleher’s live shows have experienced an overhaul. On her first outing as Catcall, she sang straight over a CD, a trick that quickly evolved to having a DJ (and the occasional dancer)
Catcall wears; Style Stalker leather jacket and dress, Senso Diffusion shoes, Patricia Field earrings stylists own leggings and mask
on stage with her, but now she’s started playing with a live band. “It’s hard to recreate electronic music live,” she confesses. “But I see myself as entertaining people, I want to make people feel good and dance.” Buried within this aim is a cathartic process, “all my songs are really personal and honest.” Nowhere is this truer than in her forthcoming album. Titled Cardiac Arrest, it’s a record about heartbreak. Catcall’s ambitions for the album are simple: “I want to make something you can dance to, or listen to alone in your bedroom.” With all the profoundly personal content of her music, does she ever get embarrassed? “No, I’m not like that,” she tells me, before going on to explain how she’s naturally disinclined towards personal anxiety, she’s even done a thirty-performance nude scene stint in a play. “I guess I’m like that, like, I don’t care about what happens when I’m performing, I don’t feel embarrassed, ever. I think I’m meant to be like that. Someone has to be.” Whether she’s baring us her soul or her bottom, we couldn’t agree more.
A Calculated RISK - Kids At Risk Take three musicians who come from conflicting musical disciplines with the shared focus of quality song writing, one highly enthusiastic drummer and the aim of reaching the kind of kids Miley Cyrus doesn’t, you end up with one pretty calculated risk of success. Heather Cairns speaks to vocalist Sep Caton, to talk about their music and the death of the chai world. On meeting Kids at Risk vocalist Sep Caton, one gets a strong feeling about the four-piece collective Caton describes as ‘Pop with balls’. Kids at Risk is the collaborative project of Caton, Larissa Rate and Lee Davaney. They will be releasing their much anticipated self titled EP early 2010, with the music which has been described as the love child of the Pixies, Kings of Leon and the Arcade Fire. Caton and Rate had been working with Pete Mayes, of PNAU fame, in a band called Vendettas and the Hate Game. They decided to fold the band which was signed to Universal. Vendettas and the Hate Game had a commercial focus and wasn’t giving its members artistic satisfaction. Caton realised; “(When) I used to sing it was all peace and love and let’s go have some chai. And then I looked
at the world and thought, hang on, it’s not a chai world anymore. Let’s have someone say it.” He needed to find the right people to say it with. Larissa, who was the vocalist for the Vendettas and the Hate Game, learnt base guitar and swapped roles with Caton for the new group. Caton’s admiration for Larissa began when she was singing in a band called The Prostitutes. Larissa had a wicked mic technique where she would end up entangled in the cord by the end of each song. Lee Davaney, the lead guitarist, came from an electronic music background. He was in a band called Daddy Matador which Caton describes as sounding like “George Michael Punk”. His skills on lead guitar and collaboration in song writing were perfect for the group. In search of a good drummer, Kids at Risk finally plucked Kai from a band called Celebrity Drug Disasters. He is one of those rare drummers who can hold the audiences eye with his infectious energy. Once the foursome formed they were ready to combat the status quo with their music. Caton explains; “There’s a whole generation of kids that are on medication or they have too much energy to fit in. I used to work with these kids, and I never saw it as a bad thing. They have energy which can be dangerous, but, it can also be really, really, good. And I looked at the
world of music and there was no one talking to them so I thought lets aim for those kids, and let’s see who we pick up along the way. They‘re the ones who are going to change things, Miley Cyrus doesn’t talk to those kids.” In order to reach the eccentrics, Caton took to singing; ’I didn’t know I had a screech until about six months ago and now I have a screech.” He is being humble. In the Kids at Risk’s debut singles ‘Sugar’ and ‘Biggest Fan’ his voice sounds emotive and polished. It can be pinned down to his passion for music as being something he says he, “simply can’t not do.” As for the band’s aesthetic they stick to monochromatic styling, so the focus is on the song writing. The one time they dressed out of character was for a ‘Monster Mash’ Halloween party at the Annandale. They dressed in eighties gear and did a cover of Mi-Sex’s ‘Computer Games’. They ended up in getting befriended by Cereal Pest, the guy who crashed Heath Ledger’s funeral, who suggested he do a support act for them. To which Caton jokes; “You see, we’re already getting the crazies.” It looks like this risk is set to pay off. www.myspace.com/kidsatriskband
TANGENT YOUR SELF BOSTON
LONDON
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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF:
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