COLLAGE AUGUST 2018 | INDIA
FASHION BUSINESS DESIGN AND SCIENCE
Iris Apfel You Can’t Learn Style
23 The Burning Man
45 Your Home Kitchen is the Key to Food Waste
61
2 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
Collage AUGUST 2018 | INDIA
Thoughts from Designer’s Worktable
COLLAGE AUGUST 2018 | INDIA
FASHION BUSINESS DESIGN AND SCIENCE
Iris Apfel You Can’t Learn Style
23 The Burning Man
45 Your Home Kitchen is the Key to Food Waste
61
The process of putting together the magazine was very stimulating and exciting. As I started with the magazine, I was really unsure of what and how things should be placed; keeping in mind the grid layouts. Initially, I was holding my self back a lot in terms of how to place and create the compositions but as I started to work on them more and paid attentions to the details, I realized that little details also can make huge difference, visually and how easy it is to work with grids once you incorporate and start to understand the grid system. Also, after this exercise, I understood the importance of thumbnails, as it is a great way to put your ideas onto the paper, which makes it easier to put down what you have on your mind. I’ve learnt a lot about layouting and grids and I can say that now I can see grids everywhere; print or physical. I have been to apply them in my final assignment as it has given me the opportunity to explore the different possibly that it has. This assignment was immensely challenging as to pull out a whole 5-article magazine and to make it cohesive and fall in one together. The most difficult part for me was to visualize the magazine as a whole and to bring in my own style to it. After a lot of different iterations and looking out for inspiration, I was unsure of myself a first, but I became used to using grids and found it simpler to work with them. I mostly laid emphasis on the hierarchy and the eye movement leaving intentional white spaces in order to bring in a certain aesthetic to the magazine. This is when I found my Layouting Style for this particular magazine. This course had helped me tons with how to visualizes and analyze layouts and I would like to say that I have really enjoyed working for this class but I could have been more open to my layouts and explored.
The magazine was founded in August 2018, by students of Srishti Institute of Art, Design and Technology. It is a magazine on fashion, business, design and science. A bit of this and a bit of that to inspire and engage larger audiences. This magazine was a part of the Form, Function and Expression course, where 27 students came together to create their own Collage. www.collage.com
Tanisha Jain Editor AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 3
COLLAGE | August 2018
CONTENTS 45
The most burning man thing ever
FAISHON 23 Iris Apfel 33 What all the fuss around the Burberry redesign tells us about the state of luxury
34 What does sustainable fashion mean
37 To fast fashion or not 39 A peek into India Fashion Week
A silver blanket the size of your average Walmart? Only at Burning Man. It’s not just the effigies that burn at Burning Man.
61
Your Home Kitchen is the Key to Food Waste
Photo essay by Goyal Journal
Best out of waste’ recipe is danthal — cauliflower stalks that are skinned and seasoned with basic spices, to make for an amazing side dish.
DESIGN 64 6 creative crushes 67 A developer’s guide to web design
70 You can’t research without context
23
Iris Apfel:
You can Learn Style
78 Designing for the forgotten 100 days of motion design
64
Creative Crushes
BUSINESS 42 Interview Questions 46
Death by revenue plan
49 Networking for introverts 50 Startup adventures 53 Why I chose customer-funded growth over taking VC money
SCIENCE 80 Could intelligent life evolve underwater?
82 Matters of disbelief 84 Hothouse Earth is merely the beginning of the end
89 Is inequality in our genes 90 In a few days, we’ll launch to a star
FEATURE
silver blanket the size of “Ayour average Walmart? Only
“
at Burning Man.
Behold, It’s not just the effigies that burn at
Burning Man. Last year, temperatures in the Black Rock desert reached nearly 100 degrees nd so the 70,000 attendees–at least those without posh glamping setups–had to weather the heat with nothing more than water and shade.The artist Alex Shtanuk has proposed a fascinating, and beautiful, solution to the heat. In an Indiegogo campaign, he’s raising money to create a 107,000-squarefoot “NASA” blanket–a blanket made of the thin, vacuumized metal. It has strong, thermal reflective properties that NASA engineered in the 1960s to insulate astronauts traveling through frigid space. You’ve probably seen these silvery blankets on TV, because they have been appropriated by the sports and rescue industries to stabilize body temperatures in times of physical trauma. The difference in Shtanuk’s blanket is simply that it’s gigantic.
THE MOST
With the footprint of your average Walmart, it would be a semi-structural, sculptural work of unbelievable size with an important purpose: The blanket would reflect up to 97% of radiant heat, so people hiding under its rippling waves would be able to chill in a microclimate that’s a few degrees cooler than outside. To build the blanket, Shtanuk is patchworking together 3,350 NASA blankets with 24 miles worth of tape. The task will require the rental of two indoor soccer fields, and take 20 workers an estimated four eighthour shifts to complete. It’s a job of astounding scale, but Shtanuk has some experience building mega blankets. At the Russian land-art festival Archstoyanie, Shtanuk debuted a 100-foot-by-130-foot mylar blanket. ‘‘The blanket looked absolutely alien among fields and trees,” he says. “At the same time, the huge silver object affects people in a very specific way: they start smiling, running on it, interacting with it in all possible ways. Just like children.”
BURNING MAN
THING EVER! By Mark Wilson
6 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
Shtanuk believes his latest project will fit right in with the spirit of Burning Man, while its thermal properties could provide some much-needed chill out time to festival goers. I can’t help but wonder what it would be like to be caught in the middle of such a gigantic roll of mylar when the wind dies down. Or perhaps, more worrisomely, how bad the sunburn could be if you spent too long playing on The Blanket during the day. “Sure, it is quite bright and functions as a giant solarium,” Shtanuk says. “Anyway, people at the Burning Man wear sunglasses and goggles almost all the time.”
AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 7
Your Home Kitchen is the Key
to Food Waste
M
uch of food waste occurs in the home kitchen and food waste in turn contributes to malnutrition, hunger, climate change and pollution. In this edition of #TrashTalk, Aarti Kapur Singh writes about why your garden patch and kitchen are more powerful than you think.
8 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
The reality is that today’s world faces dire situations of pollution, climate change, water shortage, poverty, and hunger. And — surprise, surprise — food plays a huge roll in all these issues. Food relates to pollution? How?
COVER STORY
My favourite ‘best out of waste’ recipe from Jhai Ji’s kitchen was danthal — cauliflower stalks that are skinned and seasoned with basic spices, to make for an amazing side dish.
According to the United Nations Development Programme, up to 40% of the food produced in India is wasted. About 21 million tonnes of wheat is wasted in India, and 50% of all food across the world meets the same fate, never reaching those who need it. In fact, according to the Agriculture Ministry, Rs. 50,000 crore worth of food produced is wasted every year in the country. The number of hungry people in India has increased by 65 million — more than the entire population of France. According to a survey by Bhook (an organisation working towards reducing hunger) in 2013, 20 crore Indians sleep hungry on any given night. And close to 70 lakh children died in 2012, from hunger or malnutrition. Food waste utilises vast quantities of precious land, water and human resources; rather than nourishing people, it feeds landfills, producing methane gasses that poison the environment. Much of food waste (43%) occurs at the household level. We all see that tonnes of the food produced nationally never gets consumed, causing substantial economic and environmental harms. And this is not just food that is cooked. It is also about food that is grown. Indeed, ironic in a country battling hunger and poverty. And the onus of stemming this wastage is as much on those who cook, as it is on those who make policies.
“
“
My attitude towards food germinated as a seed planted by my nana, my maternal grandfather, who had quite a green thumb. His house had an extensive kitchen garden where his grandchildren were encouraged to plant anything they fancied. This meant that we grew up understanding the effort that went into growing food — whether it was our own, or the farmers’. The reinforcement of this message, and its supplementation happened in my nani’s (maternal grandmother) kitchen. Jhai Ji we called her, had seen the deprivation of Partition days, and never shied away from sharing stories of how she kept the kitchen fire burning with limited means. And she never made it sound like she was doing something special or different; rather, reiterating that not wasting food is, and can be, a natural part of how we cook and eat. I hardly ever saw her throw away peels, stalks or any other parts of fruits or vegetables considered inedible. So much so, that she ate her safeda mangoes with the peels! (It was only much later I learnt that most of the Vitamin A in mangoes was right under the peels). She could cook a delicious meal out of ghiya peels, pickling lemon rinds, and used potato peels to scrub her heels Parts of vegetables that were not cooked or used in the kitchen went into the ‘compost bucket’ that was buried in my grandfather’s kitchen garden every morning.
AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 9
COVER STORY
“
My favourite ‘best out of waste’ recipe from Jhai Ji’s kitchen was danthal — cauliflower stalks that are skinned and seasoned with basic spices, to make for an amazing side dish. Most Punjabi home are familiar with this dish, but few actually make it. Full of detoxifying nutrients, the stalks and leaves of a cauliflower (not if they have turned yellow, though) can be used in the same recipes as lettuce, kale and other salad greens. Or you can roast them with mustard oil, garlic and a sprinkling of spices. This is also a great way to consume fibres that are essential to every diet.”
10 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
Recipe
Danthal Sabzi Ingredients 400 grams cauliflower stalks and leaves 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped fine A small piece of ginger, peeled and chopped fine A small piece of whole turmeric, peeled and chopped fine
1 tsp coriander powder, toasted 1/2 tsp cumin powder, toasted and ground 1/2 tsp fenugreek powder 1/4 tsp garam masala powder 1/3 tsp amchoor powder 1/3 tsp asafoetida or heeng
1 dried red chilli
4 tbsp mustard oil
1 green chilli, slit
Salt to taste
Method Cut the stems into even pieces. Remove the hard and stringy outer cover of the central stalk with a paring knife. Cut into the same size as the stems and wash in salt water several times to get rid of soil or grit Soak the vegetable in warm water as you prepare the rest of the ingredients. Drain the stalks in a colander, then heat the oil in a kadhai. When the mustard oil comes to smoking point, throw in the cumin, heeng, red chillies, whole turmeric, ginger and garlic. Fry till the mixture turns a little pale in colour. If you want to make a gravy dish, add some tomato puree and let it cook till the oil leaves the sides. Add the drained danthal pieces and cook with a lid on till they turn softer. This will take around 10-15 minutes. Do stir every 5 minutes or so. Add the rest of the spices except the garam masala. Season with salt. Add about a little less than half a cup of water and continue to cook till the stalks are done and the water dries up. I like the stalks to have a bit of crunch to them. Add the garam masala and amchoor powder. Give it a good stir and remove from the flame. Serve hot.
FAISHON
IRIS APFEL
BY EMMA ROBERTSON 12 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
Ms. Apfel, do you need to be fearless to be fashionable? I never think of things like that, but I guess maybe you do. But why should I worry? The fashion police are not going to come and put me in jail! I love bright colors, but I never did anything that I did to be a rebel… I just did it because I thought it was fun and it was good for me. And as long as I didn’t offend my mother or my husband, what anybody else thinks is their problem, not mine!
Have you always had a passion for color? I’m not a pastel person! Pastels make me nervous. I could never be like my mother because she never had a hair out of place! She got up in the morning and she looked like she just stepped out of a Chicago Coin band box. She was perfect all the time. And I’m not like that. Everybody would turn around to look at her but in a completely different way to me. My mother was much more disciplined in that fashion than I am. I just go with the flow!
You seem to need a certain amount of spontaneity in your life.
So getting dressed never feels like work to you? Oh, my God, no, if it felt like work, I wouldn’t do it! If it felt like work, I wouldn’t get dressed up! People think maybe I just live to get dressed, which is ridiculous. I normally wear some old jeans and a sweater or something like that where I feel comfortable.
“ YOU CAN’T LEARN STYLE
“
Oh, absolutely! My God, I couldn’t live in a rigid world… If I knew what I was going to do every day, I would go nuts! Every day is different. I’m not a planner. You either do the right thing or the wrong thing, but you do it. I’m experimental, I’m curious, and I try things. And if I like it, I do it again!
AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 13
FAISHON People wear things that are uncomfortable just because it’s in style? I have trouble picturing you in an old sweater and a pair of jeans. You do?
I’ve never seen photos of you looking anything but fabulous. Well, most people don’t want to see you looking grungy… I never look grungy, I always look clean! (Laughs) But even when I’m all dressed up, I like to be comfortable. If I’m not comfortable, I don’t want to wear it. I don’t pay attention to trends or anything. I was never one to hobble around in shoes because they were fashionable.
“ You can’t learn style. Style, I think, is in your DNA. It’s something inherent. ” 14 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
Oh no. I think contemporary clothing is too comfortable! People take advantage and begin to look sloppy, nobody pays attention to what’s appropriate anymore. Appropriate seems to be a dirty word. Sweatpants are fine in their place but you don’t go to the theater in sweatpants. I think it’s disrespectful to the artists on stage! The theater is a kind of worshipping place. You go to worship good craftsmanship, good art, good food… If you go to a temple of cuisine, you should dress appropriately. If you come in looking like a pig with flip-flops and a dirty sweatshirt, I think it’s an affront!
“you have to look clean and neat and, you know, not look offensive.” What do you think is to blame for this decline? It’s a whole breaking down of society, I’m sure you’ve noticed. The way people behave? The way they talk, the way they dress, the way they look? Everything! The dumbing down of society. Years ago you couldn’t enter a fine restaurant if you didn’t have a jacket! They’d have jackets on the door that they’d put on you. Everybody dressed up when they went to a restaurant. I like when I go to a restaurant and I look over at the next table and the people look attractive; it helps my digestion. When I see a beast with an open shirt and hairy chest hanging out it takes away my appetite! I think it’s just a lack of respect.
Respect for the people around you? Lack of respect for yourself! I think if you go out, you don’t have to dress up all the time. I surely am not an advocate of that. But you have to look clean and neat and, you know, not look offensive. I think some of these people that waddle around Fifth Avenue in the summer, some of these ladies that have a butt from here to Poughkeepsie that wear tights or jeans that are so, so tight… It seems to me the more unattractive some of these people are, and the fatter they are, the less clothes they wear.
Do you miss the fashion scene of old New York? I wouldn’t go into mourning over it, but there used to be an enormous fashion scene, and I don’t think there’s much of one anymore. If you walked down Fifth Avenue or Park Avenue in the fifties and sixties, everybody looked so wonderful. Now, if you’re clean and well-dressed you look like a freak. It was another world.
How so? First of all, the clothes were clothes. They were properly made with beautiful fabrics. There were wonderful designers that knew how to cut and sew and drape. Back then in New York, we had some of the best designers going.
Do you remember things changing, for example, when America entered World War II? Oh, of course they changed. Fashion was not on the forefront. The emphasis was not on making beautiful clothes. Factories changed, they made army clothes and stuff like that, people were in a somber mood. There wasn’t any fashion! Everything was simplified.
“I always say it’s better to be happy than well-dressed.” Because fabric was rationed during the war? Right, it wasn’t until after the war that Dior came with the New Look. He made clothes with voluminous skirts because finally we had a surplus of fabric again. That’s what’s interesting if you really want to study fashion, it’s a photograph of daily life. The political climate, the economic climate, the social behavior—it’s all reflected in fashion.
What does today’s fashion say about our daily lives? I think most people don’t know who they really are. They feel secure if they look like other people or if it’s the look that everybody says is in… People agonize about the way they look! It’s unbelievable! They don’t know what to wear or how to do it, and they’re very unhappy. But you can’t learn style. Style, I think, is in your DNA. You can learn how to be more fashionable, you can learn how to be better dressed, but I don’t think you can learn style. I think that’s something inherent. You have to know who you are first and then proceed from there—and that’s a lot of work! Most people don’t want to do it. And if they don’t want to do it, and they feel stressed by doing it, I always say it’s better to be happy than well-dressed.
“I think most people don’t know who they really are.”
MY FAVOURITE
INTERVIEW
When I talk to my friends who run companies or are in hiring positions, I usually ask them for their favorite interview question.
QUESTIONS
3
1
Who do you admire?
2 4
What’s something you’re bad at that you really wish you I’m going to give were good at. you 5 minutes. Teach
76
What are you pretending you don’t know?
What’s a reason why I should not hire you?
10
5
8
me something new. Anything!
If you weren’t getting paid for what you do, would you still be doing it?
How do you organize your closet?
Tell me something about yourself that I can’t find out on Google!
What do you
know about us?
9
What are the biggest values you think your parents taught you?
HERE ARE SOME OF MINE THAT I COLLECTED OVER THE YEARS. 16 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
DESIGN
6
Creative Crushes Whose Work Will
Inspire You
Creativity begets creativity. When you witness or consume brilliant work by someone you admire, it’s almost impossible to resist the urge to dive head-first into your own creative pursuits. IDEO designers surround themselves with creative people for exactly this reason—when you’re stuck in a rut, sometimes the best way to dig yourself out is to steep in other people’s genius for a while. Here are 6 people whose work inspires our own.
AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 17
DESIGN
1 2 3 If your podcast library is overflowing...
If coding is your form of art…
If Mother Nature is your muse…
Graphic designer, musician, podcaster: Hrishikesh Hirway is a creative jack of all trades. In this interview, Hrishikesh goes deep on how this versatility helps and hinders his creative process.
Matt Fargo is on a quest to make Japanese culture more fun for everyone. Learn how he draws from the coder’s toolkit to build unexpected weirdness into his digital projects.
When New Yorker art director Rina Kushnir’s not designing layouts, she can be found painting leaves she collects in her Brooklyn neighborhood. Find out how this meticulous project helps her meditate and stay creative.
18 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
4 5 6 If you’re an art enthusiast… Illustrator Cindy Derby creates imaginary worlds for children’s books, but her unique characters and experimental style capture the imagination of adults just as easily. Get to know Cindy and her made-up worlds in this interview with the artist.
If you’d rather be at a museum right now… As curator of Architecture + Design for SFMOMA, Jennifer Dunlop Fletcher puts the world of design on display. Find out how she stays inspired by constantly considering the now, questioning the promise of future technology, and looking back on the designs that made history.
If you’re a film buff… Nomadic filmmaker Brandon Li uses film to express the beautiful madness of urban life. See how his creative process adapts to whichever city he’s in.
AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 19
DESIGN
6
Creative Crushes Whose Work Will
Inspire You
Let’s Keep The
Information
Flowing! Tell us who’s inspiring you right now using the hashtag #CreativeCrushes on Twitter.
20 | COLLAGE | AUG 2018
AUG 2018 | COLLAGE | 23
MRP Rs. 80