2011 07 tarpa topics by TWA Active Retired Pilots Assn.

DON’T MOAN, DON’T GROAN, JUST GET ON THE PHONE AND BOOK A FLIGHT TO SAN ANTONE. SEE YA AT TARPA 2011! DETAILS ON P. 7

JULY 2011 ISSUE 101

TWA ACTIVE RETIRED PILOTS ASSOCIATION

PINNACLE ALCOR IN THE SANDIA MOUNTAINS NE OF ABQ

The ﬂight of Skyliner Binghamton, TWA F-260, Feb. 19, 1955, see p. 17

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NORTH STAR OVER MY SHOULDER Review by John Power, Shanwick Radio By TWA Captain Robert N. Buck, 1914-2007, TW 1937-1974, Simon and Schuster, hard cover, 2002 available on line. It was with a feeling of some wistfulness that I reached page 432 and the end of 'North Star over my Shoulder' by Capt. Bob Buck. Not since 'The High and Mighty' by Ernest K Gann, have I read a book that so evokes the spirit of aviation and over such a long period. I was taken by his honest account of feeling and dealing with fear - "fright time"! I suppose it requires a special quality to be towed into the sky in a home-built glider not knowing how it will perform and to deliberately fly into a TS in the interests of science. Radio: I knew from Ed Dover that Pan AP Engineers had devised circuitry that combined the Radio Range A & N signal with that from a RDF Loop and resolved the 180 degree ambiguity as well as enabling any strong NDB or commercial broadcast signal to act as a virtual Radio Range - if I understand correctly. So it was nice to read that my iconic airline had contributed as well. The TS research resulted in antennae capable of reducing the electric static problem which made NAV aids etc unreadable. There were also early developments in Radio Altimeters which were not taken up by other airlines because they did not invent it themselves according to BB. His account of the Connie dented my romantic image of this airplane a little bit - only a little bit. I thought it disappointing that the later models with their complex turbos and superchargers were not operated above 13,000 feet, by many pilots in case the 2nd stage supercharger blew the engine. Thus the original Connie could fly up near 20,000 above most of the weather and the new ones could only go there at increased risk of engine trouble. A quote that amused me: "Where in hell is west down there" as they approached the SP in the roundthe-world trip on the 707. I looked at my globe and still can't understand how the advice from the SP station operator to turn 10 deg west equated to a left turn. Fortunately they escaped from the polar direction confusion and headed towards New Zealand. This book is a lovely blend of human interest and technical information on flying with some theory thrown in and all accessible to the man in the streeW. I had a vague impression that his Friend Tyrone Power (Ty) hailed from my own part of the country but a little 'Googling' informed that it was Ty's great grandfather who came from Kilmacthomas which is about 10 miles from where I grew up. Am I related to Ty - perhaps a millionth cousin. Capt Bob Buck retired in 1974 and so it is possible that I had the honour of talking to this great man in a ship (Grand Dame) that passed in the night in static. Even if it were only routine communications, the thought pleases me. Thanks to Noel [Deasy] for lending me the book, I will get my own copy.

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)5((+2/' 3,/27 :5,7(6 2) (8523(Â³)$5 ($67 75,3 By Captain Jim Schmitt, Feb. 1961 Our trip went into the planning stage a year ago. A friend and I were taking Boeing 707 jet training in Kansas City on another very snowy February. One day, over his usual steak and milkshake breakfast KH SDVVHG VHYHUDO \HDUV DJRÂ« KH VWDWHG Â³7KLV LV WKH WLPH RI \HDU WR EH LQ &H\ORQÂ´ 1RZ 6UL /DQND So we decided that was the place to spend our 1961 vacation. We would be employed five years by that time and therefore just barely eligible for overseas travel . Being 7:$ HPSOR\HHV ZLWK DOPRVW IUHH transportation on its routes, we young folks could talk seriously about such things. Back on the East Coast with our wives the dream became more difficult. By April my classmate reSRUWHG KLV ZLIH ZDVQÂ¶W WRR HDJHU WR JR WR &H\ORQ 7KH\ ZHUHQÂ¶W JRLQJ EH\RQG *HUPDQ\ )RU DQRWKHU six months I spun globes, displayed pictures, and talked big to my wife Charlene. I finally convinced KHU WKDW &H\ORQ ZDV WKH SODFH WR JR Â± ZLWK WKH NLGV yet! We had no friends interested in babysitting 0DUN Â± DJH DQG 6WHSKHQ Â± DJH IRU GD\V RU so, and grandparents were back in the Midwest. 7KH NLGV KDG IORZQ SUREDEO\ PLOHV HDFK E\ WKDW WLPH DQG ZHUH UXJJHG WUDYHOHUV 7KHUH ZDV PXFK RSSRVLWLRQ DW ILUVW Â± Â³NLGÂ¶V VLFNQHVV HQ URXWHÂ´ Â³QR IUHHGRP IRU WKH SDUHQWVÂ´ $QG HYHQ Â³WKH\Â¶OO EH NLGQDSSHG Â´ 7KH KDUGHVW SDUW EHJDQ LQ 'HFHPEHU Â± VKRWV )RU D European vacation all one needs is a smallpox vacFLQDWLRQ DQG WKH NLGVÂ¶ SKRWRV RQ WKH PRWKHUÂ¶V QLQH GROODU SDVVSRUW 7UDYHOLQJ EH\RQG (XURSH UHTXLUHV D fascinating series of cholera, typhoid, typhus, yellow fever and tetanus inoculations over six weeks and VHYHUDO WULSV WR 1<& DV QRW DOO VHUXP LV DYDLODEOH LQ )UHHKROG 1- 7KH IDPLO\ KDG QR DIWHU HIIHFWV IURP the ten shots each, except a bit of soreness after the polio booster. 0DUN FRPSRVHG D VRQJ Â³1R PRUH VKRWV QR PRUH VKRWV Â´ DIWHU QXPEHU WHQ 'XULQJ WKH LQRFXODWLRQV ZH ZHUH DOVR REWDLQLQJ YLVDV 7KH\ ZHUH QHFHVsary for travel to Egypt, Saudi $UDELD ,QGLD DQG &H\ORQ DQG FRVW DERXW HDFK 7Uaveling on airline passes means we had to be prepared to disembark at any point where seats becamH XQDYDLODEOH Âµ6WDQGE\ WUDYHOÂ¶ IRU HLJKWHHQ WKRX VDQG PLOHV PHDQW WKH SRVVLELOLW\ RI EHLQJ ÂµEXPSHGÂ¶ at any of our fifteen stRSV *RLQJ VWURQJO\ LQ RXU favor was that few Americans travel to Europe in February and loads were never heavy east of Paris or Rome. For many weeks I carried a list of supplies and addeG XQXVXDO LWHPV IURP WLPH WR WLPH 1RW H[DFWO\ D trip to Antarctica, but I stocked up on peanut butter, jelly, vitamin pills, 60 cans of Shop-Rite ÂµFKRFRODWH FRZÂ¶ DERXW WKH RQO\ PLON WKH ER\V KDG IRU WKH HQWLUH WULS 6SDP ([ /D[ .DRSHFWDWH VRDS WRLOHW WLVVXH PRVTXLWR ERPE .OHHQH[ UDGLR VOeeping medicine, water purification tablets, a canteen, Alka Seltzer, hand-held scale, shipping taJV FRXJK PHGLFLQH 'HQW\QH FLJDUHWWHV NQLIH FDQ opener, corkscrew, and compact toys for the kids. Balloons were great till we hit the tropics. Some of these items are locally available but not at midnight or 6 A.M. and usually expensive. We needed almost every item during the three weeks we were away. &ORWKLQJ ZDV QR SUREOHP Â± D WRSFRDW UDLQ FRDW PHGLXP VXLW OLJKWZHLJKW VXLW ILYH ZDVKÂ¶QÂ¶ZHDU VKLUWV sweater, and a couple trousers set the pattern for the family. Other CRXQWULHV UHTXLUH PXFK PRUH IRUPDO ZHDU WKDQ LV FXVWRPDU\ LQ WKH 86$ Â± HYHQ WKH VWreet cleaners in Paris wear coats and ties! 7KH HYHQLQJ RI )HE WK IRXQG XV DW Idlewild Airport, ERDUGLQJ 7:$ )OW IRU /LVERQ DQG 0DGULG :H SDLG VRPHWKLQJ OLNH HDFK IRU )LUVW &ODVV URXQG WULS DQG VDW DFURVV IURP ILOP VWDU $YD *DUGQHU P\ FROOHJH GUHDP PDWH 6KH YLVLWHG RXU ÂµEDELHVÂ¶ VHYHral times, somewhat to the chagrin of my wife.

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the near-total eclipse of the sun. During the champagne breakfast we zoomed over Mt. Vesuvius, Mt. Etna, and some of the beautiful islands surrounding Greece. Landfalls came and went as we saw Alexandria, Egypt, then the Nile, the desert, and soon WKH Âľ%RDW 7UDLQVÂś PDNLQJ WKHLU ZD\ XS WKH 6XH] 7KH S\UDPLGV RI *L]D $TDED 6DXGL $UDELDQ RLO ILHOGV WKH DOPRVW OLPLWOHVV VDQGV RI WKH 6DKDUD WKHQ WKH deep blue of the Persian Gulf , darkness over the ,QGLDQ 2FHDQ Âą ILYH WKRXVDQG PLOHV RI WRXFKLQJ DQ cient and modern history, geography, world news, and even the bible - all before touching down at 6DQWD &UX] $LUSRUW LQ %RPED\ We were gaining confidence by that time so took a taxi direct to the third best KRWHO LQ %RPED\ ZLWKRXW HYHQ FDOOLQJ IRU UHVHUYDWLRQV 7KLV had a suite of rooms, a challenging water heater (we had to light it ourselves) beds for everyone and all meals included IRU HLJKW EXFNV D GD\ 7HQ PLQXWHV DIWHU FKHFNLQJ in I sat down on the dirty sheets, ZDWFKLQJ 0DUN VWRPSLQJ URDFKHV 6WHYH NLOOLQJ DQWV &KDUOHQH WU\LQJ QRW WR WRXFK DQ\WKLQJ Âą DQG , KDd a good, long laugh! We spent two nights there and I wrote it off to experience rather than false econom\ 7KH VTXHDNLQJ EDWV RXWVLGH WKe unscreened windows put us to sleep and the ever-present crows woke us the next morning. Rather than provoke use of the Kaopectate (for diarrhea) we depended on our own supply of food and purified water in our canteen. We dined WKDW QLJKW DW WKH 7DM 0DKDO +RWHO EHVW LQ WRZQ ZKere we had a six course dinner for six bucks per person. :H GLG VRPH VKRSSLQJ Âą LYRU\ EUDVVZDUH OHDWKHU JRRGV VDQGDOZRRG D VDUL IRU &KDUOHQHÂŤ $ VNLOOHG artisan in India might earn as much as 2 rupees (40 cents) a day so the cost of the item is mostly the FRVW RI WKH PDWHULDO 6DQGDOZRRG WUees all belong to the government (even if on your property) and produce a beautiful, finely textured wood with an incense-like aroma. Its products cost about a dollar a pound whether in the form of a wood block, sawdust, or a delicately-carved elephant. Mark wanted to see the snake charmer so we hopped into a taxi for a three hour city tour. We saw the +DQJLQJ *DUGHQV IRU KDQJLQJ WKH 3DUVHH Âľ7RZHUV RI 6LOHQFHÂś ZKHUH corpses are eaten by the crows and the bones dissolved in acid so nothing of the body ever touches the ground) DQ DTXDULXP D +LQGX 7HPSOH DQG WKH +LQGX %XUQLQJ *KDWV ZKHUH D FRUSVH was being prepared for the cremation. We found D VQDNH FKDUPHU LQ WKH SDUN +H KDG KLV JRRGLH EDJV and for a couple dollars put on his little show which included his cobra charming horn, a real cobra (which has been de-fanged) that followed the movement of the horn and not thH VRXQG VLQFH WKH\ DUH GHDI"" +H then releases a mongoose which quickly devours the garden variet\ VQDNH 127 WKH PRUH H[SHQVLYH FREUD 7KH FREUDV RFFDVLRQDOO\ take a playful bite of the owner so we are all happy they are no longer deadly poisonous. We used our sleeping medicine that night for the second time at 10 PM for the 3 AM trip to the airport DQG RXU $0 IOLJKW WR &H\ORQ 1R 7:$ SODQH DYDLODEOH DW WKDW WLPH VR ZH URGH D %2$& MHW WR Katunayake Military Jetport outsiGH &RORPER &H\ORQ 7KH ,VOH RI 'HOLJKW Âą LV PLOHV VRXWK RI %RPED\ D IHZ GHJUHHV DERYH WKH HTXDWRU LQ WKH ,QGLan Ocean. It is a tropical island about 350 miles long and 150 miles wide with topography ranging from sea level rain forests to 8000 ft. mountains. For the first time since leaving Freehold we encountered a bit of rain - gentle showers which we barely QRWLFHG &XVWRPV LQVSHFWLRQ KHUH ZDV WKH PRVW FULWLFDO of the trip. Entry officials spent half an hour counting our travelers checks, dollars, and even confiscating apples I had brought from Rome SUREDEO\ D WUHDW IRU WKHP DV DSSOH WUHHV GRQÂśW GR ZHOO in the tropics). Fresh fruit and meats can be carriers of new diseases that may spread thru the orchards and herds of WKH DUULYDO FRXQWU\ 1<& FRQILV cates, also. On a trip last summer we crew members all pitched in to eat a bag of figs that the captain KDG EURXJKW LQ Âą RQH IRUP RI FRQILVFDWLRQ Âą LQ IURQW RI WKH FXVWRPV RIILFLDOV :H ILQDOO\ ERDUGHG WKH EXV WR &RORPER IRUW\ PLOHV away and a free service generally provided beyond &DLUR HDVWERXQG , DVNHG ZKHWKHU ZH VKRXOG SKRQH WKH 0W /DYLQLD +RWHO DQG WKH UHSO\ ZDV Âł$K QR :H JR WKHUH DQG LI QR VSDFH ZH JR VRPHZKHUH HOVHÂ´ And so, four cities and one and a half hours later,

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we arrive at the Mt. Lavinia Hotel. There IS space, here in the best hotel on the island, surrounded by beautiful warm blue water, and the VHWWLQJ IRU RQH RI WKH VFHQHV ZLWK :LOOLDP +ROGHQ LQ Âľ%ULGJH RQ WKH 5LYHU .ZDLÂś 2XU EHDXWLIXO JURXQG IORRU URRP RSHQHG to the beach and cost all of $18 a day, including three meals daily plus afternoon tea. We were not shy about eating this food! 2Q 6DWXUGD\ ZH OHIW WKH ER\V ZLWK RXU ODWHVW 6LQKDOHVH Âľ1DQQDÂś DQG DUUDQJHG IRU D IXOO GD\ SULYDWH FDU trip to Kandy in the hill country. We did 150 miles for the all-day rate of $12, not including tip! We saw palm tree forests, rubber, tea and coffee plantations, pineapple stands, rice paddies, village markets, elephants working in the fielGV DQG EXOORFN FDUWV HYHU\ZKHUH Âą WKH\ VHHPHG WR EH WKH WUDQVSRUWD tion standard. I was searching for lLWFKL QXWV DQG PDQJRVWHHQ Âą QRW UHDOL]ing that there are fruit seasons even in the tropics and I was doomed to failure. The taxicab accumulated bananas, mangoes, and pineapple and I did find something neZ Âą 5DPEXWDQ Âą ZKLFK KDV D KRUQ\ UHd exterior protecting something WKH VL]H DQG VKDSH RI DQ eyeball, but delicious! $UULYLQJ LQ .DQG\ ZH YLVLWHG WKH Âľ7HPSOH RI WKH 7RRWKÂś ,W FRQWDLQV D ÂľKXPDQÂ´ WRRWK DERXW WKH VL]H RI an index finger. It is only open for display during thH Âľ3HUDKHUDÂś )HVWLYDO LQ August. We had to settle for padding about the temple in our stocking feet, admiring the exquisite workmanship. Driving back, we saw a real balsa tree (all that wood for a modeO PDNHU NLGÂŤ :H VSRWWHG ZKDW DSSHDUHG WR EH D GHDG HOHSKDQW LQ D VWUHDP E\ WKH URDGVLGH 2Q FORVer examination we saw the tip of his trunk above the ZDWHUOLQH DQG UHDOL]HG KH ZDV MXVW OXxuriating, with his master nearby. Sunday we had the usual breakfast of fresh fruit, hot cereal, fried fish, eggs, bacon, rolls, and tea. Then it was off to Mass in a real steam engine train for seven miles for about seven cents eaFK Âą NLGV IUHH After that we sent Mark and Steve on a rickshaw ULGH Âł7KH\ÂśOO EH NLGQDSSHG Â´ Âą ZRUGV RI P\ PRWKHU in-law before the trip evaporated as we saw them turning the corner on the way back. Monday we had set aside for some shopping but after a couple of bold purchases (star sapphires for ZH YLVLWHG WKH 7:$ RIILFH DQG discovered the TWA mechanics had gone on strike and the entire fleet was on the ground! Return fare on other airlines would be $3000+ and I was down to about $400 with no credit card (they were not yet in vogue foU WKH FRPPRQ FLWL]HQ $ SKRQH FDOO WR 'DG EDFN LQ the Midwest would be about $25 and I doubt that money would arrive LQ OHVV WKDQ D ZHHNÂŤ , LPPHGL DWHO\ ZLVKHG , KDGQÂśW ERXJKW WKRVe star sapphires (although $30 wasnÂśW JRLQJ WR PDNH D GLIIHUHQFH Then the kindly TWA agent advised us that there was one TWA plane, still flying, picking up employees along the way from Manila westbound. We immediately geared up for that flight and were boarded RQ 7XHVGD\ KRSHIXOO\ DERXW IRUW\ KRXUV ZHVW WR 1<& 3OHQW\ RI URRP RQ WKH 7:$ &RQQLH VR ZH ERDUGHG Zith some extra clothing in the carry-ons. We had no idea where we would be bumped from the flight so ZHUH SUHSDUHG IRU 6DXGL $UDELD RU &DLUR ZLWK RXU YLVDV ZKLFK PDGH PH OHVV ZRUULHG 3DULV VWLOO FKLOO\ ZLQWHU RU 1<& Dbout forty eight hours away. )RUWXQDWHO\ ZH KDG )LUVW &ODVV VXUFKDUJHV VR ZRXOG be the last to be bumpeG 2QH WKRXVDQG PLOHV DZD\ ZH JRW WKUX %RPED\ 7KHQ ZH VXUYLYHG 6DXGL $Uabia and the Sahara desert underneath, now from 18,000 foot piston heights rathHU WKDQ MHW OHYHOV DQG HYHQ PRUH VWULNLQJ FRORUV :H PDGH LW WKUX &DLUR which was having demonstrations unfavorable to AmHULFDQV DV 3DWULFH /XPXPEDÂśV GHDWK KDG FDXVHG ORFDO SUREOHPV %\ WKH WLPH ZH DUULYHG LQ $WKHQV I felt we were almost home, but Rome sort of FKDQJHG WKDW DV ZH VDZ ÂľKRUGHVÂś RI HPSOR\HHV ZDLWLQJ WR ERDUG 7KH VHYHQW\ SD[ &RQQLH ZDV QRZ UH SODFHG ZLWK D VHDW ÂľDOO WRXULVWÂś &RQQLH Âą D UHDO VWURNH RI OXFN ZKLFK JRW XV Âą FKRFN D EORFN IXOO WR 3DULV +HUH , VDZ PRUH FURZGV UHDOL]HG , ZRXOG EH WKH PRVW MXQLRU FUossing the Atlantic as my seniorLW\ KDG MXVW DOORZHG P\ SDVVDJH eastbound two weeks earlier. As soon as we parked I scrounged thru WKH FDUJR ED\ RI WKH &RQQLH DQG UHWULHYHG PRVW RI RXU OXJJDJH 7KH EDODQFH ZRXOG EH DW 7:$ 2SV DW ,'/ $LUSRUW MXVW O\LQJ LQ D KHDS LQ WKH FRUQHU Âą DOUHDG\ WKUX FXVWRPV Zith not a thing missing! :H KDG MXVW VSHQW KRXUV IURP WKH 0W /DYLQLD +RWHO LQ &H\ORQ WR 3DULV 2UO\ )LHOG 0DUN DQG 6WHYH

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had been real troupers - occasionally sleeping under our feet in the spacious first class area. We stayed in a rather expensive $20 hotel for the four of us first night. Next day I put Charlene on a bus tour of Paris and took the boys on the Metro and then we climbed the Eiffel Tower. Here I met a USAF Major who was staying for seven dollars a night in the Hotel Arromanches - just a block off the Champs Elysees. We moved that day and enjoyed the new location, with bath and toilet but no meals. Oh, ZHOOÂŤ %\ WKDW WLPH WKH VWULNH ZDV RYHU DQG , NQHZ ZHÂśG EH KRPH ZLWKLQ D IHZ GD\V VR , SXW &KDUOHQH RQ VHY eral half day tours and dragged the boys around to see kid stuff. We had three babysitters in three eveQLQJV Âą D *HUPDQ DQ $XVWULDQ DQG D 0RUURFDQ ODG\ Âą ZLWK QR FRPSODLQWV (YHQLQJ HQWHUWDLQPHQW ZDV quite reasonable. We saw the Lido Show from bar stools, where one drink is mandatory. That would be three bucks for a coke, per person, or a fifth of chamSDJQH IRU WZR IRU WHQ EXFNV *XHVV ZKDW ZH GUDQN We saw several other shows including a rather quaint grRXS DW Âľ0DGDPH $UWKXUÂśV in Pigalle. It took us a bit to realize the performers were mostly women imSHUVRQDWRUV ,I WKDW GLGQÂśW tip us off, the all-gender bathrooms did. With real stamina, one can be entertained all night and then top it off with onion soup RU VQDLOV DW WKH Âľ3LJÂśV )RRWÂś LQ WKe most interesting market area. 6XQGD\ FDPH DQG WKLV WLPH ZH DWWHQGHG 0DVV DW 1RWUH 'DPH :H KDG RXU ODVW VQDLOV Âą HYHQ WKH ER\V OLNHG WKHP E\ QRZ Âą DQG SDFNHG IRU WKH JRRG ROG 7:A 707 which had come to get us. Stephen rather ZLVWIXOO\ VDLG Âł6KDOO ZH JR KRPH"Â´ We were ready. We boarded for the 5 PM flight and ate and drank and slept our way across France, England, Ireland, the NortK $WODQWLF DQG &DQDGDÂ˛LQ ILUVW FODVV :H ODQGHG DW 30 DQG LW ZDV D KHOOXYD WULS Â˛

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THE (MIS)-ADVENTURES OF AN OFF-DUTY PILOT (i.e. Murphy's Law has not been repealed) by Bud Kuball Collated by Ms. Carol Ann Hawley If you've ever read the front page articles from the Adventure Magazines, you will usually find that their close calls were the result of poor planning and/or poor judgment. You rarely see an article from WKRVH ZKR GLG LW ULJKWÂ˛EHFDXVH WKHUH LV QRWKLQJ WR ZULWH DERXW My solo raft trip down the Yukon River located in Yukon Territory, Canada, in September of 1982 clearly falls in both categories, with a little bit of Murphy's Law thrown in, for excitement. (According to Webster's Dictionary, Murphy's LaZ VWDWHV WKDW Âł,I WKHUH LV D SRVVLbility for something to go wrong, LW ZLOO JR ZURQJ Â´ This was not my first time in the Yukon. After my tour of duty with Saudia was over in the Summer of 1978, I had six weeks of vacation time to use, so I went on a camping trip to the Yukon Territory and $ODVND :LWK PH ZDV P\ \RXQJHVW VRQ -HII ZKR KDd been with me in Saudi Arabia and two of his friends. We used an old 1963 International Travel-all with four wheel drive and an 8,000 pound winch up front. On top, we carried a 16 foot boat and behind, we towed a Sears utility trailer for all our camping gear. The trip was un-eventful except for the great fishing. We also drove through the cities of Whitehorse and Dawson City, Yukon TeUULWRU\Â˛WKH WZR FLWLHV WKDW ZRXOd be the beginning and end of my raft trip. On the way back to the USA, we bought a malamute puppy in the Yukon from a trapper on Tagish Lake. The raft that I would be using on the Yukon River was a 12 foot Zodiac that I had purchased at the annual boat show at the Coliseum in New York City. I brought it to Las Vegas after I returned from a flight to Europe and gave it a test on Lake Mead, near Las Vegas, to see if it really would float, which it did. I also had a 16 foot Alumacraft boat with a 25 H.P. motor, so I tried mounting the 25 H.P. motor on the Zodiac to see how it would perform. The motor was too powerful for the Zodiac and also too KHDY\ DERXW OEV VR , Gecided to make the Yukon River trip a pure float operation. I packed my camping gear and the raft, which camH LQ WZR EDJVÂ˛RQH IRU WKe tubes and one for the floor boards and foot powered inflDWLRQ SXPSÂ˛DQG SODFHG WKHP RQ $ODVka Airlines out of Las Vegas, destination Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada. After a couple of days of shopping for supplies, I took everything down to the river to prepare for departure. Now, here's where Murphy's Law came into effect. I did not tie my gear down in the raft because earlier that day, I had met a guy who was doing the river in a canoe and we planned on meeting and camping about two miles down river that evening.

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I pushed off the beach up river from a large dock thDW KDG DQ ROG VLJQ DWWDFKHG WKDW UHDG Â³'DQJHUÂ² .HHS $ZD\Â´ LQ EDGO\ IDGHG SDLQW , KDGQ W SXVKHG Rff far enough upriver to clear the dock, so the raft GULIWHG DORQJVLGH WKH GRFN ULJKW XQGHU WKH VLJQ $V I reached up to push away on the sign it broke off DQG IHOO RQ WRS RI PH IOLSSLQJ WKH UDIW RYHU 7KH XSVide down raft, with sign on top, went sailing down the Yukon River and I went sailing under the dock, coming out the far side where my head hit the prop of a boat putting a nice gash above DQG EHWZHHQ P\ H\HV /XFN\ IRU PH WKH PRWRU ZDVQ W UXQQLQJ , DOVR KDGQ W SXW P\ OLIH MDFNHW RQ 0XUSK\ V /DZ DJDLQ ZKLFK SUREDEO\ VDYHG P\ OLIH DV WKHUH ZDV RQO\ about one or two inches of clearance between the surface of the river and the ERWWRP RI WKH GRFN :LWK the cross members under that dock, , FRXOG HDVLO\ KDYH KXQJ XS WKHUH Anyway, I struggled up the bank and walked back to my motel whicK ZDV RQO\ DERXW WZR EORFNV DZD\ As I was waiting at the front desk, all wet and blood coming from the gash in my forehead, the recepWLRQLVW GLGQ W HYHQ ORRN WZLFHÂ²DV LI WKLV KDSSHQV HYHU\ GD\ 0D\EH LW GRHV"" 6KH JDYH PH P\ URRP back, some dry clothes and directions to the 5R\DO &DQDGLDQ 0RXQWHG 3ROLFH 5&03 RIILFH After changing into the dry clothes, I walked over there and told the officer on duty what had happened and if he could help recover my raIW +H VDLG Â³1R SUREOHP Â´ FDOOHG RQe of his associates and all three of us climbed into their vehicle and drove down to the river where thH\ NHSW D ERDW 7KLV ERDW ZDV DQ open, heavy wood model, about 20 feet long with WZR RXWERDUG PRWRUV PRXQWHG RQ WKH WUDQVRP 7KH ODUJHU PRWRU ZDV SUREDEO\ DURXQG + 3 KDG EHHQ FRQYHUWHG WR D MHW GULYH 7KH VPDOOHU PRWRU ZDV D VWDQGDUG + 3 (YLQUXGH 2QH RI WKH 5&03 RIILcers and myself pushed the boat off the beach and MXPSHG LQÂ²WKH RWKHU RIILFHU VWD\ed ashore holding the line to the ERZ RI WKH ERDW , PLJKW PHQWLRQ KHUH WKDW ERWK 5&03 RIILFHUV ZHUH still in their dress unLIRUPVÂ²WKH\ KDG QRW ERWKHred to change into WKHLU ZRUNLQJ XQLIRUPV )RU VRPH UHDVRQ 0XUSK\ V /DZ DJDLQ WKH RIILFHU in the boat was unable to get the larger motor VWDUWHG $W DERXW WKH VDPH WLPH WKH RIILFHU RQ WKH Eeach let go of the bow line which resulted in us going down the Yukon River stern first ZLWK QR PRWRUV UXQQLQJ )LQDOO\ WKH RIILFHU JRW WKH + 3 (YLQ rude running and we are now going down the Yukon RiYHU ERZ ILUVW WKH ZD\ WKH GHVLJQHUV KDG LQ WHQGHG About three miles down river, we found my raft hung up in a marsK\ DUHD ZLWK WKH Â³'DQJHU .HHS $ZD\Â´ VLJQ VWLOO DWWDFKHG , FRXOG KDUGO\ EHOLHYH WKLV EXW WKH 5&03 RIILFHU MXPSHG LQWR WKH PXFN ZLWK his shiny dress boots, righted my raft and tied it to WKH VWHUQ RI WKH 5&03 ERDW 1RZ ZH KHDGHG EDFN WRZDUGV :KLWHKRUVH EXW WKH + 3 0RWRU DW IXOO WKrottle, did not have enough power for us to make any headway against the swLIW <XNRQ 5LYHU FXUUHQWÂ²ZH ZHUH VORZO\ GULIWLQJ EDFN WR VKRUH 6R ZH EHDFKHG WKH ERDW DQG UDIW DQG WKH RIILFHU JRW RQ KLV UDGLR DQG FDOOHG IRU VRPH ZKHHOV WR SLFN XV XS 7KH 5&03 DUULYHG VKRUWO\ WKHUHDIWHU ZLWK a truck upon which we loaded my raft, what was left of my gear, DQG WRRN LW WR P\ PRWHO 7KH 5&03 RIILFHU WKHQ GUove me to the local hospital/clinic where I had the JDVK LQ P\ IRUHKHDG WDNHQ FDUH RI , GLGQ W ORVH HYHU\WKLQJ ZKHQ WKH UDIW IOLSSHG RYHU 7KH UDIW KDG D VSUD\ IO\ LQ the bow area and I had VWXIIHG P\ FDPSLQJ JHDU DQG VKRWJXQ XQGHU LW , KDd brought along a 20 gauge shotgun for bear protecWLRQÂ²WKDW ZDV D ELJJHU PLVWDNHÂ² JDXJH would only irritate a grizzly gHDU 1RW RQO\ WKDW EXW , IRXQG out later that, after thH GXQNLQJ LQ WKH ULYHU LW ZRXOGQ W HYHQ ILUH 7KH PRVW YDOXDEOH WKLQJ WKDW , ORVW ZDV P\ 7:$ DLrline bag which contained aiUOLQH WLFNHWV WUDYHOHUÂ¶V FKHFNV DQG P\ PP =HLVV &RQWHVVD FDPHUD /XFNLOy, I had kept my wallet and passport on my perVRQ $OVR ORVW ZHUH P\ JURFHULHV DQG ERR]H 7KH JURFHULHs were easily replaceG EXW WKH ERR]H ZDV QRW ,W ZDV /DERU 'D\ ZHHNHQG VR WKH OLTXRU VWRUH ZDV FORVHG , KDG WR PDNH D QLJKWV GD\V ULYHU PLOHV WULS ZLWKRXW HYHQ D JODVV RI ZLQH IRU +DSS\ +RXUÂ²KRZ XQFLYLOL]HG , WKHQ FDOOHG 7:$ ) $ -XOLH 3DUDGLVH LQ /DV 9HJDV DQG DSSULVHG KHU RI P\ VLWXDWLRQ 6KH WKHQ FDOOHG 7:$ $JHQW 7HUU\ :RRGV ZKR

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was able to obtain a return authorization on Alaska Airlines. My Thomas Cook Travelers Checks were easily replaced in Whitehorse. As the motel was drying my wet clothes, I decided to change this operation from a float/paddle one to a motorized one and was able to rent a 15 H.P. Evinrude motor. On the day of my departure, I rented a taxi to take all my groceries and gear down to where the raft was beached. As I was entering the taxi, a man (unknown to me) came running out of the motel, shook my hand, and congratulated me for not quitting and going forward with the trip. I thought that was rather amusing. The word of my little mishap must have gotten around. When I rented the motor, I made a deal with the guy that he would KHOS PH LQVWDOO WKH IORRUERDUGVÂ˛ ZKLFK ZHUH VWLOO UDWKHU VWLIIÂ˛DQG ODXQFK WKH UDIW +H was there when the taxi arrived. We managed the floorboards okay and then loaded my gear and groceries (making sure, this time, that everything was tied down). He then pushed me off. His job was to hang onto the bow line until I got the motor started and was sure it was running okay. Everything was, so he let go of the bow line and I was on my way again! I missed the dock this time and since it was rather late in the day, I was soon looking for a good camping spot. I lucked out and got set up for the night. If you've never rafted before, you will find that it is a labor intensive experience. It usually took me three to four hours in the morning and about the same in the evening to make and break camp. That included cooking meals, shaving, brushing teeth, washing the dishes and pumping up the tubes on the raft. That didn't leave a lot of time to be on the river. It took 14 days to run the 460 river miles from Whitehorse to Dawson City, which gives an average of 33 miles per day. This was a beautiful time of the year (September) to be rafting the Yukon River. The leaves on the trees were turning color and the Canadian Geese were heading south in their great Vformations, honking as they flew along. Most of the days were warm and sunny, but the nights were cool. I would usually find an ice crust on the top of my water bucket in the morning. About the only problem I was having was with my feet. There was always some water on the floor of the raft and my feet would be immersed in that cold Yukon river water for hour after hour. To solve the problem, I beached the raft near the Village of Carmacks, walked into town and was able to buy a pair of insulated rubber boots that made my feet happy. $QRWKHU PLQRU DQQR\DQFHÂ˛ZKHQ EHDFKLQJ IRU WKH QLJKW , UDQ RYHU VRPH EURNHQ JODVV ZKLFK SXW D IHZ holes in one of the tubes on the raft. Although I had brought along a patch kit, the repair never seemed to hold which necessitated my inflating the tube with my foot pump every morning. The only rapid of any consequence in the 460 river miles between Whitehorse and Dawson City was Five Fingers Rapid, located just a few miles downriver from Carmacks. During the heyday of the Klondike Gold Rush of the late 19th Century, the paddle wheelers that worked their way upstream to Whitehorse would winch themselves through this rapid. They accomplished this by blasting a hole in the rock upstream of the rapids and then inserting an eye-bolt. At the appropriate time, they would offload a crewman who would then attach the winch line to the eye-bolt. It would have been interesting to watch this operation. When I went through the rapid in September, the water was low and the rapid was basically a riffle. No problem going through. Lake Laberge (thirty miles long by one to three miles wide) could also be a problem if it was windy. I lucked out but played it safe by hugging the shoreline. If necessary, I could beach the raft and wait out the storm. I never had any bear problems, but occasionally, after waking up in the morning, I would see bear tracks in the sand. Bears like to walk the shoreline, checking out the scene.

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Speaking of bears, do you know the difference between a brown bear and a grizzly bear? There is QRQHÂ²LW V DOO D PDWWHU RI ORFDWLRQ %URZQ EHDUV DUH PRVWO\ FRDVWDO Eears and if you were to take one DQG WUDQVSRUW LW DERXW PLOHV RU VR WR WKH LQWHULRU, it would now be a grizzly EHDUÂ²D EHDU ZLWK D GXDO SHUVRQDOLW\ %URZQ EHDUV DUH XVXDOO\ ODUJHU EHFDXVH WKH\ KDYH D GLHW RI PRVWO\ ILVK ZKLFK KDYH D ORW RI SURWHLQ *UL]]O\ EHDUV RQ WKH RWKHU KDQG KDYH WR VFURXQJH DURXQG PRUH IRU WKHLU IRRG The last point of interest before reaching Dawson City was old abandoned Fort Selkirk on the west EDQN RI WKH ULYHU 7KLV IRUW ZDV active during the gold ruVK DQG ULYHU ERDW GD\V SULPDULO\ WR SURYLGH VHFXULW\ IRU WKH UHJLRQ (YLGHQWO\ the soldiers who were stationed there were allowed to bring their IDPLOLHV EHFDXVH LQ WKH JUDYH\DUG , VDZ WKH KHDGVWRQHV RI PDQ\ ZRPHQ Dnd children who had passed RQÂ²PRVWO\ DW D YHU\ \RXQJ DJH 7KRVH KDUVK <ukon winters, along with disease, probably took a KHDY\ WROO ,QFLGHQWDOO\ P\ IDYRULWH KHDGVWRQH HSLWDSK ZDV WKH RQH , VDZ RQ D PRYLH VHW LQ 'XUDQJR 0H[LFR ,W UHDG Here lies Les Moore Shot through the head ZLWK D No Les No Moore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orth Country can be difficult at WLPHV 7KH QH[W GD\ , ZDV DW WKH 'DZVRQ &LW\ $LUSRUW WR catch a flight to WhitehousH 7KH UHJLRQDO FDUULHU was using De Havilland Twin Otter aircraft with tuUER SURS HQJLQHV JRRG VKRUW ILHOG SHUIRUPDQFH DQG load carrying ability plus the ability to use wheels, skis or floats, the Twin Otter was gradually replacing the older Pratt and Whitney R-985 powered Beavers and the largHU 3UDWW :KLWQH\ 5 SRZ HUHG 2WWHUV ,W ZDV EHFRPLQJ WKH QHZ Â³:RUNKRUVH RI WKH 1RUWK Â´ 7KLV ZDV QRW D Â³FKHDSÂ´ IOLJKW , KDG to pay full fare and every pound of ZHLJKW RI WKH UDIW DQG FDPSLQJ JHDU KDG WR EH SDLG IRU $ODVND $LUOLQHV ZDV D OLWWOH PRUH JHQHURXV The airline did not use co-pilots on WKLV RSHUDWLRQ VR , ZDV DEOH WR VLW XS IURQW 7KH 3LORW LQ &RPPDQG ZDV D PLGGOH DJHG ZRPDQ ZKR ORYHG KHU SURIHVVLon and was obviously quite SURILFLHQW 7KLV ZDV Â³KDQGV RQÂ´ IO\LQJ DQG D W\SLFDO ZRUNGD\ FRXOG EH ORQJ DQG DUGXRXV 4XLWH D GLIIHUHQW RSHUDWLRQ WKDQ ZKDW , ZDV XVHG WR $IWHU WUDQVIHUULQJ WR $ODVND $LUOLQHV DW :KLWHKRUVH , ZDV EDFN LQ /DV 9HJDV YLD 6HDWWOH LQ QR WLPH DW DOO ,W KDG EHHQ DQ LQWHUHVWLQJ DOPRVW WKUHH ZHHNV WULS $URXQG DERXW &KULVWPDV WLPH , PDLOHG D FKHFN LQ WKH DPRXQW RI WR WKH 5&03 RIILFH LQ :KLWHKRUVH DQG WROG WKHP WR EX\ VRPH Â³;PDV FKHHUÂ´ DV D WKDQN \RX IRU UHFRYHULQJ P\ UDIW 7KH\ UHWXUQHG WKH check and said they were just doiQJ WKHLU MRE 'LG D SDVVHQJHU HYHU JLYH \RX D ELOO IRU PDNLQJ DQ H[WUD VPRRWK ODQGLQJ" 2I FRXUVH QRW $QG LI KH VKH KDG \RX ZRXOG KDYH UHWXUQHG LW ULJKW" 3URIHV VLRQDOV GRQ W DFFHSW JUDWXLWLHV IRU D MRE WKH\ DUH DOUHDG\ SDLG WR GR

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