SA Connoisseur - Issue 279, Dec 19/Jan 20

Vol 279

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sa’s top fruit picking spots

Festive

Recipes

A Day at

Allée Bleue

DeMorgenzon’s rise to success

www.simonsig.co.za

P L E A S E E N J O Y R E SPO N SIBLY TH IS FESTIVE SEA SO N SIMONSIG WINE ESTATE, KROMME RHEE ROAD, KOELENHOF, 7605 | PHONE: 021 888 4900

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SOUTH AFRICAN

CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:

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Facebook: @wineofthemonthsa Twitter: @WotMSA Instagram: @wineofthemonth TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. SMS entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.

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www.cantowines.co.za South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

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@cantowines

@cantowines

Tel: 021 492 2821 • info@cantowines.co.za

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10 19 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 INSIDE BOUTIQUE WINERY DeMORGENZON 10 SA’S BEST FRUIT PICKING FARMS 12 ONE FINE DAY AT ALLÉE BLEUE 14 INSIDE THE WORLD’S BEST: ALICE & FIFTH 16 A FESTIVE GIFT GUIDE FOR WINE LOVERS

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THREE FUN FESTIVE RECIPES THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINESS TO TRY DAVID BIGGS ON THE PLACEBO EFFECT OF WINE

ON THE COVER Turn to p.08 to discover all that DeMorgenzon has to offer.

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The Panel tastes their way through 99 bottles of bubbly on p.24

Under the Mulberry Tree

Your Gift Guide for wine-lovers on p.16

One of my best memories growing up was spending lazy summer days in my aunt’s mulberry trees. My brother, two cousins and I would make like monkeys and guzzle mulberries and then, stained dark purple, swim in my aunt’s pool. It was eat, swim, eat, swim. Those were the days.

Fruit picking is a forgotten pastime for today’s kids. Instead they’d rather play some type of “fruit-picking” game on their iPads. So for an unusual adventure for your kids or grandkids, you’ll find a selection of The Best Fruit Picking Spots around SA on p.10. Strawberries, litchis, cherries and more—there’s a whole lot of good old-fashioned fun to be had.

From bellies full of fruit to hands full of flour, on p.19 we share some fun festive recipes. Indulge in a gingerbread pie, a delicious Christmassy mousse or try our step-by-step guide to creating your own Christmas cookie tree.

Still in the festive spirit, we’ve put together a Gift Guide of suggestions for presents for all your wine-loving friends, colleagues or family members. From wine books and wine glasses to cork catchers and a drinks trolley, your gift buying is sorted. (p.16) From the kitchen to the winelands: we head to the Allée Bleue estate in Franschhoek to take part in an all-day activity schedule. Visiting the Cape’s winelands this summer? We map out the ideal day for you. (p.12) A little further south, we call at DeMorgenzon, a boutique winery in the Stellenboschkloof valley, to see how the estate has grown to be a firm winelands favourite for both local and international visitors. (p.08) To finish off the festivities, the panel reports on the best of 99 bottles of bubbly tasted in time for the year-end celebrations. It’s a tough job but, as they say, (hic) somebody’s gotta do it. Plus, there’s the prized gen on all the latest and best wines.

Wishing you a wonderful festive season—and see you in 2020!

Try this delicious Chocolate Caramel Gingerbread Pie on p.19 CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB

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THE FRANSCHHOEK CAP C L A S S I Q U E & C H A M PA G N E F E S T I VA L , 30 NOVEMBER TO 1 DECEMBER End off the final few weeks of 2019 on a fashionably high note at the 10th annual ‘MAGIC OF BUBBLES FESTIVAL’ in Franschhoek. One of SA’s premier social calendar highlights, this is the perfect excuse to dress up and gracefully glug some of the country’s finest Méthode Cap Classiques and French champagnes. www.webtickets.co.za.

WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events around SA

THE DELHEIM HARVEST FESTIVAL, 25 JANUARY 2020 The occasion is a highlight of the winelands calendar, allowing families to spend a leisurely day wining, dining and having fun on the lush and historic property. Ticketholders simultaneously support a good cause with a portion of sales donated to the Pebbles Project, a non-profit organisation enriching the lives of children and their families in the Winelands farming communities in the Western Cape. R480pp. www.delheim.com

C H E F M AT T M A N N I N G ’ S G RU B & V I N E 5, 6 & 14 DECEMBER Come December MATT MANNING is set to partner up with Genevieve MCC and Luddite Wines for a special Christmas celebration. During this one-of-a-kind dining experience, red wine specialist Niels Verburg and MCC queen Melissa Nelsen will handle the drink side of things. As always, Matt will hero one ingredient over five courses—this time with a special festive twist. R750pp. www.grubandvine.co.za

DARLING SUMMER BEER F E S T I VA L , 1 5 D E C E M B E R In December the sleepy town of Darling will come alive as it hosts the annual DARLING SUMMER BEER FESTIVAL. The hosts of this event are the Darling Brew’s brewery themselves, where they invite visitors to taste some great beers while enjoying live music and plenty of food. Tickets from Webtickets for R120pp. www.darlingbrew.co.za GABRIËLSKLOOF’S FAVOURITE THINGS MARKET, 13-15 DECEMBER Each year GABRIËLSKLOOF ESTATE celebrates the festive season with a highly anticipated Christmas market. This stylish pop-up at the Overberg’s wine estate-on-the-hill offers all things handmade, homemade, delicious, fresh and beautiful. As always, Friday night is for table reservations at R100pp. Entrance on Saturday and Sunday is free and four-legged and two-legged children are welcome. www.gabrielskloof.co.za.

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Into the Blue

POPIN’ BOTTLES Get into the festive spirit with BABYLONSTOREN’S SPRANKEL MCC. Think Golden Delicious apples, green lollipops, tropical tones as well as gentle biscuit and brioche flavours. Made from 100% Chardonnay, expect a vibrant fruity MCC perfectly paired with your festive dishes. www.babylonstoren.co.za

A fan of G&T? If you’re in Jozi, best you try the new limited 4 ALL SEASONS: SPRING EDITION GIN at Flames Restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff. Distilled and bottled solely for Four Seasons

by Ol’ Jimmy’s Microbrewery and Nano-distillery, this gin is infused with butterfly blue pea flower, lime blossom and jasmine. This is what Instagram moments are made for. Feeling peckish?

Choose between Flame’s famous canapés or sharing plates. www.flamesrestaurant.co.za

WINE & DINE BOCCA photos by Hein van Tonder and Lindy Kriek

What’s New in Food and Wine

BOCCA’S MAKEOVER

Under new ownership BOCCA, the bustling Italian eatery on Bree Street in Cape Town, introduces refreshed décor and a revamped urban Italian menu. Experienced restaurateurs Guido and Adnana Brambilla have put a new focus on seafood with a top notch selection of beef, lamb, poultry, pork and a signature short-rib dish. And don’t get us started on the pasta… Work in the city? Try one of their new cheese and charcuterie platters with an after-work cocktail. www.bocca.co.za 6

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

THE SPIRIT OF SPATZ

A Mountain Made Tonic

Made with 100% mineral water, CEDARBERG AQUA has just launched a new range of allnatural, sugar-free tonic waters.

Cedarberg Aqua’s mineral water originates from (you guessed it) the Cedarberg slopes and flows down through layers of Cape sandstone which acts as a natural filter.

Take your G&T to the next level with these 5 flavours: Classic, Twist of Lemon, Buchu, Rose and Blueberry. R59 for a pack of six. www.cedarbergaqua.com

Delheim Estate has just announced the release of ICONOCLAST—a new, once-off Cape blend that celebrates the life of the late Spatz Sperling. Spatz’s uncle and aunt (Hans and Del Hoheisen) bought Delheim back in 1939, so the limited release also coincides with Delheim’s 80th anniversary. The blend is Shiraz-driven (Spatz’s favourite) rounded off with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Pinotage. Challenging conventional beliefs and institutions, Spatz was a pioneer of the South African wine industry. (One of his wines, in fact, was in the first ever Wineof-the-Month Club pack 33 years ago.)

Iconoclast’s logo takes inspiration from Spatz too; he was never seen without his hat nor his Jack Russell, Nelson. The blend will cost around R1000 and only 2100 bottles have been produced. Cheers to an ol’ pal!

Visit www.delheim.com

The late Spatz Sperling and his beloved Jack Russel, Nelson.

Ultimate Burger & Wine Combos

We love a good burger and, of course, we love a good glass of wine too. Here’s a quick Burger and Wine Pairing Guide to help you get the most out of this combo: 1. Classic Burger: The savoury notes of a Cabernet Sauvignon will work to complement a juicy beef patty—plus all the regular trimmings too.

2. Bacon Cheeseburger: A bold peppery Shiraz will cut through the fattiness of this bacon and cheese combo.

3. Lamb Burger: A dry or sweet Riesling is a great match to your next lamb burger—especially if it has Mediterranean seasonings.

FROM VINE TO DESIGN

In-between the Devon Valley hills you’ll find the beautiful LOUISVALE wine farm just outside of Stellenbosch. The farm is toasting its brand new venue that was designed by awardwinning architect, Christof Albertyn.With a mix of African and European influence, its two structures are joined by a floating glass arch that frames the 280-degree mountain views. If the architecture and view don’t lure you alone, Louisvale’s restaurant also serves the freshest produce in their seasonal menus.

From a long line of bakers and farmers, executive chef Kirstie du Toit and her team are dedicated to original, delicious homemade food. Save us a seat?

To book your spot go to www.louisvale.com.

4. Chicken Burger: Enjoy a glass of herbaceous Chenin Blanc alongside your next grilled or crumbed chicken burger.

5. Fish Burger: A refreshing Rosé is soft enough to not overpower the fish, and acidic enough to complement its richness.

6. Veggie Burger: Viognier pairs nicely with a hearty veggie patty—especially if the recipe includes a little spice or sweetness.

My Blend’s Better Than Yours

Always wanted to make your own wine? Now you can become a winemaker for the day at Middelvlei estate in Stellenbosch. Designed as an activity for two, the MIDDELVLEI WINE BLENDING EXPERIENCE is ideal for couples and friends who are looking for something a little different to do in the winelands. It’ll show you what goes into making of a blend, and the experience includes a cellar tour plus a wine tasting. Now to make the perfect blend, eh? R180pp. www.middelvlei.co.za

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PROFILE | DEMORGENZON

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HE MORNING SUN “The morning sun”, a translation from the Dutch DeMorgenzon, is a fitting name for this Cape First Growth estate. It is the first high above the Stellenboschkloof valley to be touched by the sun’s rising rays.

DeMorgenzon has grown into the essence of a beautiful Cape estate since the purchase in 2003 by prescient proprietors, Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum. DeMorgenzon has since achieved a rapid rise to success as one of the Cape’s finest estates in producing worldclass wines, crafted in perfect harmony with nature.

The sweeping vistas and sprawling scenery from the tasting room encourage you to explore the incredible beauty of the estate. It is an inviting and beautiful space, that serves as a memorable oasis for all who visit.

Rooted EXCELLENCE IN

Celebrate with DeMorgenzon’s Rise to Success Experience the estate and taste their award-winning wines, including exclusive Vinoteque releases.

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Open daily: 10h00 - 17h00 Contact: 021 881 3030 | tastingroom@demorgenzon.com Stellenboschkloof Road, SOUTH AFRICA N CONNOISSE U R Stellenbosch WWW.DEMORGENZON.COM

GARDEN VINEYARDS Captured in every bottle of wine is the beauty of the exquisite gardens.

DeMorgenzon has cultivated itself as a 91-hectare garden interspersed with 55-hectares of carefully tended vineyards and a picturesque addition of olive orchards.

The estate’s ethos follows that of a biodiverse and ecologically sensitive environment that produces infinitely better grapes.

Approximately 10% of DeMorgenzon is dedicated to the conservation of Renosterveld; one of the most threatened biomes of the Cape Floral Kingdom.

DEVINE MUSIC A continuation of tapping into your senses is the Baroque and early Classical music which plays across the estate to the vines and wines in the cellar.

Hylton Appelbaum, a classical music connoisseur, is a firm believer in the positive effects of melodic sound energy. This benefits the growth of the vine, the fruit it bears and therefore supplements the success of the wines.

DEMORGENZON | PROFILE

TERROIR Hillside vineyards benefit from the cool morning sun and sea breezes of False bay. This combination along with granitic soil allows for wines of intensity and structure, with excellent freshness and crystalline purity. A special and significant block of old Chenin Blanc vines planted in 1972 provides lowyielding fruit with great concentration resulting in complex and flavourful wine.

CELLAR The winery and vineyard teams dedicate themselves to producing minimal intervention, age-worthy wines which express the terroir of the estate.

Cellarmaster, Carl van der Merwe’s, winemaking philosophy is simple: to interfere as little as possible and as much as necessary.

WINES DeMorgenzon’s white wines are impressive in their youth and transform after ten years in bottle, with the evolution of secondary and tertiary characters that result in an unforgettable vinous experience.

DeMorgenzon produces a range of premium wines that showcase exquisite balance, elegance and attention to detail.

A unique combination of rich New-World fruit and Old-World structure.

The result is classic wines that are highly regarded amongst the world’s noteworthy wine critics.

AWARDS DeMorgenzon has achieved global recognition as a producer with International Trophies for the Reserve Chardonnay and Reserve Chenin Blanc at the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards. The Reserve Chenin Blanc has also won The International Chenin Blanc Trophy for three years in a row at The International Wine Challenge Innumerable local accolades include an unprecedented Platter’s White Wine Of The Year for two years running, and 2019 has seen them place consecutively for the 5th year in the Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Top Ten Challenge.

CELEBRATE WITH CHENIN The versatility of Chenin Blanc pairs perfectly with summer days. We favour the following for your festivities: Reserve Chenin Blanc A superb wine produced from +47-yearold vines. Presenting a perfect balance with complex flavours on the nose, a rich, concentrated mouthfeel with marvelous depth, flowery mid-palate, and layers of tropical fruit culminating in a long lingering finish. Available at Wine-of-theMonth Club for R475

Maestro White A beautiful blended and aged white wine of Rousanne, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. A fullbodied expression of white and yellow stone fruits with a delightful palate texture. Available at Wine-of-the-Month Club for R225 Further Chenin based specialities of DeMorgenzon include: Chenin Blanc MCC, DMZ Chenin Blanc, Vine-Dried Chenin Blanc and the limited The Divas Chenin Blanc.

RELAX WITH ROSÉ Fresh and playful yet highly sophisticated in style, this diverse blend from DeMorgenzon adds deliciously to great gatherings.

Garden Vineyards Rosé An ode to the magnificent gardens and vineyards dedicated to the blends result in a crowd-pleasing Provençal styled Rosé.

Enjoy a glass of alluring aromas of fresh strawberries and cherries, followed by a crisp summer fruit salad palate accented with delicate floral spice nuances. The balance is a perfect ending, dry and enticingly crisp. Available at Wine-of-theMonth Club for R89.99 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Ripe

FOR THE

PICKIN’

For Fig’s Sake

Wander through the fig tree orchard at HOOGWATER FARM in Ceres, and pick as many figs as you like. The farm also has a pop-up deli, homemade croissants, cheeseboards—and a little wine tasting, too, to wash down the figs. The figs you don’t manage to eat, you take home at R5 per punnet.

Time: Saturdays 8am-1pm, from 13 January until 3 February.

Cost: R45pp and R20 per child and R5 per take home punnet.

SA’s best fruit picking farms to visit

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emember summer and climbing the mulberry tree to eat the fruit? The berries you picked yourself just tasted better, didn’t they? Not only can fruit picking be a fun summertime activity but it’s also a great way to show the kids just what goes into putting fruit on supermarket shelves.

So get ready for sticky fingers and a full belly. Here’s a list of where you can pick and eat to your heart’s content.

MAGALIESBERG MAGIC

STRAWBERRIES OF STELLENBOSCH MOOIBERG FARM STALL (sandwiched between Stellenbosch and Somerset West) is all about the humble strawberry. Enjoy the sunshine (and don’t forget a hat and the sunscreen) as you pick as many strawberries as you can carry.

Remember to stop at their famous farm stall for strawberry inspired treats to take home.

Time: Saturday and Sunday 9am-5pm, between November and January Cost: Charge per kilogram picked

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At the foot of the Magaliesberg mountains near Hartbeespoort Dam, you’ll find TANGAROA STRAWBERRY FARM. Come and eat as many strawberries as your belly can hold while strolling around the strawberry fields. If you have space left, enjoy a light lunch at Fraise Restaurant or a picnic hamper under the trees.

Time: Saturdays and Sundays from 7:30am-4pm, now to December.

Cost: R50 for under 10, and R70 for over 10.

FRUIT PICKING FARMS | FEATURE

Berry Nice

Enjoy a morning of berry picking at WILDEBRAAM BERRY ESTATE in Swellendam, followed by a visit to their tasting room. Sip on some berry liqueurs produced in the private cellar and learn how each is made. Bring reusable bags to carry all jams, syrups, chutneys and relishes made in Wildebraam’s farm kitchen and that you will be taking home with you.

Time: Monday to Friday 8am-5pm, Saturdays 9am-4pm and Sundays 9am-2pm, 15 November till late December.

Cost: R15pp entrance fee. Self-picked blackberries are charged at R28 per kilogram and younberries at R38 per kilogram.

LIMPOPO’S FINEST BLUEBERRIES Treat yourself and well-behaved family members to delicious certified organic blueberries at BLUEBERRY HEIGHTS in Limpopo.

After you’ve stained your fingers and lips purple, pop down to the Mountain Cafe for something more substantial to eat.

Time: Wednesday to Sunday 9am-5pm, beginning of December until the end of February.

Cost: R60pp and R40 per child entrance fee.

For Litchi Lovers, and That Includes You Take a tractor trip up to a beautiful orchard laden with litchis at the

CHERRY PICK

LITCHI FARM in Salt Rock, KZN. Sample and

A little further away, at KLONDYKE FARM in Ceres, pick all the ripest, juiciest cherries you can find. You can also make a weekend of it and spend a night or two at one of the quaint cottages on the farm.

Cherries for breakfast then too?

Time: Daily from 8:30 am-4pm, from 23 November.

Cost: R30pp and R15 for children under 10, R5 for children under five.

taste as you pick, and collect fruit to take home too. The Litchi Farm also has a not-to-be-missed annual festival full of family fun and activities from 15 December to 1 January.

Time: Daily 9am-3pm, 10 December to 5 January.

Cost: R130pp covers entrance and picking or eating. Buckets are 1,6kg and are included in the entrance fee.

ALL KINDS OF BERRIES

If you prefer variety, about 95km from Johannesburg you’ll find the beautiful BONAF BERRY FARM. Take a guided tour through the orchard and tuck into blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries and gooseberries. Containers are provided to take berries home and you can also purchase frozen berries out of season.

Time: Daily from 8am-5pm, end of November to end of March.

Cost: R40pp for picking, and R20pp if you have just come to taste.

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ONE FINE DAY ALLÉE BLEUE’S recipe for a PERFECT DAY in Franschhoek

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DID YOU KNOW: Allée Bleue is also a wedding, conference and event venue too? So whether you are a couple of lovebirds, or a planner looking for a destination for your next teambuilding event—Allée Bleue has it all.

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t’s not just about tasting their awardwinning wines—there are actually a number of activities you can do while visiting Allée Bleue. Experience their warm hospitality and old-world charm just once and, before you leave, you’ll be scheduling your next visit. Here, we map out the perfect day at this picturesque Franschhoek estate.

9am—Bistro Breakfast: Open for breakfast, lunch, or a full á la carte menu, the Bistro uses the finest ingredients this side of Franschhoek.

Executive Chef Gordon’s menu focuses on seasonal local produce, making use of a variety of fresh herbs grown in Allée Bleue’s own herb tunnels.

11am—Wine Tasting: The estate’s knowledgeable Tasting Room team will guide you through their collection of wines, plus fill you in on a little history

of the estate for good measure. During summer you can enjoy tasting wines on the tree-shaded terrace overlooking the vineyards, gardens and mountains.

1pm—Picnic: Allée Bleue are well known for their picnics, which are available daily. You collect your picnic selection, select a shady spot anywhere on the grounds and make yourself comfy. The kiddies can run around while the adults sip wine. Allée Bleue welcomes families to join them, with a jumping castle in the picnic area as well as a play gym for them to burn off some extra energy. Plus, the estate also offers a special kiddie picnic menu, full of delicious treats even the fussiest of eater will enjoy.

6pm—Overnight Stay: There are three historic properties available for overnighting. Our favourite? Kendall Cottage. In 2009 Kendall Cottage was opened as a private, luxurious retreat for visitors. Decorated in a palette of blues and neutrals, and featuring a beautiful collection of modern art, Kendal Cottage comes complete with a private terrace overlooking lavender and rosemary fields.

CONTACT US PHONE: 021 874 1021 EMAIL: info@alleebleue.com WEB: www.alleebleue.com LOCATION: Allée Bleue Estate, Intersection R45 and R310, Groot Drakenstein 7680

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THE MAN BEHIND THE WINES

On normal working days you’ll find Van Zyl du Toit working his magic in the Allée Bleue cellar. Van Zyl joined Allée Bleue in 2009, having previously worked for Simonsig. Coming from a winemaker family, Van Zyl’s energy, enthusiasm and craftsmanship have given the farm’s wines a clear sense of direction—and numerous awards bear testament to the fruits of his labour. (Ahem, excuse the pun.) “My wines are very personal to me,” says Van Zyl. “It’s not what I do, but rather who I am.”

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Best

in the

WORLD

A new eatery in Jozi has been selected as one of the WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANTS

H

ow’s this? When it comes to the design of dining and drinking spaces South Africa takes the cake. Indeed it does, as Alice & Fifth at the Sandton Sun Hotel has been selected best in the world.

Now in its eleventh year, the Restaurant & Bar Design Awards is a competition dedicated to the design of food and beverage establishments.

This year there were entries from over 70 countries. The awards cover every dining and drinking space imaginable. Ships, airports, museums, vans, Michelin-starred establishments, even fleeting pop-ups.

Alice & Fifth nabbed the title of Best Overall Restaurant. You’ll find it on the corner of (who would have guessed) Alice and Fifth streets at the entrance of the Sandton Sun Hotel—where swanky doorways bait you down to a supper club, a cigar bar and a function venue next door.

At the beginning of the year, The Milk &

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Honey Group (of Milk and Honey Bar and Lima Tapas Bar fame) wanted to create a roaring 1920’s hotspot with a futuristic theatrelike twist. With the help of their go-to branding duo Jana + Koos and interior designer Tristan du Plessis, at Alice & Fifth they were able to bring this unique vision to life.

Built by Blackline Group, “The brief was to create a sumptuous and decadent space juxtaposed with a raw unrefined underground edge,” says Tristan. “I drew inspiration from the opulent cabaret clubs of years gone by in cities like Paris and New York. I mixed that with a contemporary world of African luxury.

“We used lush velvets, and handpicked rare marbles to infuse the space with colour,” Tristan says, “and created a dramatic backdrop

using handcrafted walnut wall panelling, as well as curved French panelling and exposed raw concrete columns.”

After hearing of the award, Tristan said, “As a South African designer to be in the same room as my international design icons is an honour in itself, but to be recognised on a global level in front of peers that I’ve looked up to since the beginning of my career is unbelievable. It also reaffirms what I believe in: the potential of South African design. Not only can we compete at an international level but also lead the field.”

Here are a few of our other international winners: Hotel Esplanade – St Kilda, Australia Song – Guangzhou, China LIÒN – Rome, Italy New York Burger – Madrid, Spain The Bar at Hotel Zachary – Chicago CAFE: Cardboard – Mumbai, India Parlour – Dublin, Ireland Louix Louis – Toronto, Canada Beefbar – Paris, France Visit www.restaurantandbardesignawards.com to see the complete list of winners.

Director’s Reserve Selection The High Road’s award-winning Director’s Reserve selection dates back to 2009. These wines show well from the date of release—after three and a half years of barrel and bottle maturation.

However, these wines really come into their own after six years. Since 2009, the Director’s Reserve selection has been safely stored in optimal conditions in The High Road’s cellar.

The High Road—the epitome of Bordeaux yet expressing a sense of place that is uniquely Stellenbosch.

WWW.THEHIGHROAD.CO.ZA Tel: 076 044 5020 wine@thehighroad.co.za @thehighroadwines @highroadwines

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@highroadwines

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Gin Advent Calendar, R1399 from Wine-of-theMonth Club

Wine Gifts | WINE PRODUCTS

Gatsby Drinks Trolley, R5499 from @home

Panto Gold Rim White Wine Glass, R180 from David Jones

The Aronson Cork Bowtie, R325 from Deer Design

Cork Catcher, R329 from Le Creuset

Wine Tote Bag, R1250 from Arrow Leather Goods

GIFT IDEAS FOR WINOS A selection of our favourite finds for the wine-lover in every family

Melaurea Mead MCC Brut 2018, R295 from Wine-of-theMonth Club

Jute Pouffe, R1495 from Weylandts

Summer Vineyard Classic Candle, R320 from Cape Island

Wine Lover’s Kitchen, R435 from takealot.com

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TASTE THE PLACE Limestone Hill Chardonnay

De Wetshof Estate in Robertson is known as the House of Chardonnay. It was here that some of South Africa’s first Chardonnay vines were planted in the rich limestone soils, and today De Wetshof offers a range of five Chardonnay wines, each offering a taste of the unique terroir where the vines grow.

The Limestone Hill not only counts among the most awarded Chardonnays from De Wetshof but is also one of the most popular Chardonnays among consumers world-wide, who are rediscovering the joys of a fresh, bright glass of Chardonnay wine.

The grapes for Limestone Hill are picked in the coolness of the morning, with the emphasis on capturing the natural complexities of the Chardonnay grape immediately for the making of this un-wooded wine. After de-stemming, pressing and overnight settling the juice is racked-off from the sediment and pumped into stainless steel tanks.

After fermentation, the wine is left on the lees under controlled temperatures.

The weekly stirring of the lees ensures maximum flavours are released into the wine until the wines are ready for bottling.

Heavy clay soils rich in limestone allow the Limestone Hill to emit optimum varietal expression in a cloak

of rich complexity. An un-wooded wine, Limestone Hill has notes of grapefruit and nuts, balanced by a nuanced elegance ending in a delicate ripeness.

What is important in making an un-wooded Chardonnay is that it is not just a matter of keeping the juice and the wine away from oak. The chemistry of the grapes and the vineyard conditions have to be conducive to producing a Chardonnay that shows its best features in an un-wooded environment.

The American critic Robert Parker, the world’s leading wine judge, describes the wine as such: “The Limestone Hill Chardonnay never sees oak, and offers impeccably pure, refreshing apple, peach and lemon fruit, a lovely leesy richness of texture, and a nutty, chalky, fruit-filled finish of imposing length. Understated and less tropical than some of the better un-oaked Australian Chardonnays, this wine possesses far better balance and sheer drinkability—not to mention more finesse—than 99% of the world’s Chardonnay I have experienced at its price.”

These words say it all. But the taste may leave you speechless.

DE WETSHOF. THE HOUSE OF CHARDONNAY.

WWW.DEWETSHOF.COM

Tel: 023 615 1853 • info@dewetshof.com

De Wetshof.indd 17

2019/11/07 11:31 AM

THE WINERY

+27 21 888 4740 KNORHOEK ROAD, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA

GÃ…TE RESTAURANT

RESERVATIONS: +27 21 888 4750 GATE@QUOINROCK.CO.ZA

QUOINROCK.CO.ZA

FRUIT PICKING FARMS | FEATURE Serve this up side by side with a Methodé Cap Classique such as Genevieve MCC 2015 (Price R259)

Brown and white is a beautiful contrast to behold during the holidays. Especially when the brown is as fragrant as gingerbread, drizzled chocolate, and sweet confectionary icing. Use these recipes to create your favourite Christmas spice treats.

GE

IMAGES & RECIPES COURTESY OF STOCKFOOD / GREATSTOCK

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Delicious Chocolate Caramel Gingerbread Pie Recipe on pg. 20

RECIPE | GINGER SPICE & EVERYTHING NICE

CHOCOLATE CARAMEL GINGERBREAD PIE Serves 10 INGREDIENTS: 1 quantity gingerbread dough 380g can Nestlé Top ’n’ Fill Caramel 2 eggs 185ml (¾ cup) cooking cream 100g dark chocolate, melted, cooled 330g packet Queen Royal Icing 60ml (¼ cup) fresh lemon juice METHOD: 1. Preheat oven to 170°C. Grease a 23cm pie dish with a small lip. Roll out 1 portion of dough on a lightly floured sheet of baking paper until 3-4mm thick. Flip the dough over the rolling pin and remove the paper. Line the prepared dish

GINGERBREAD SPICED MOUSSE WITH BAILEYS CREAM Serves 8

with the dough, being careful not to stretch the dough. Trim the edges. Place in the fridge for 20 min to chill.

2. Place the dish on a baking tray. Line dough with baking paper and fill with pastry weights or rice. Bake for 10 min or until lightly golden.

Remove paper and weights or rice. Carefully wrap some foil around the edge of the pastry to prevent burning and bake for a further 10 min or until golden. Set aside to cool completely.

3. Place the caramel in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the eggs and cream and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the chocolate. Pour the mixture into the pastry case. Leave foil around the edge of the pastry to prevent burning. Bake for 35-40 min or until the filling is just set. Set aside to cool completely.

4. Meanwhile, line 2 baking trays with baking

INGREDIENTS: 300ml carton thickened cream 200g milk chocolate, chopped 2 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp mixed spice ¼ tsp ground cloves 60ml (¼ cup) Baileys Irish Cream with Salted Caramel liqueur, plus 1 tbs, extra

40g butter, chopped 3 eggs, separated 300ml carton double thick cream 2 tbs salted caramel topping ¼ quantity gingerbread dough dark cocoa powder, to serve

This dish works really well with a Late Harvest like Bon Courage Noble Late Harvest 2016 (Price R141.22) 2 0

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

paper. Roll out the remaining dough on lightly floured baking paper until 3-4mm thick. Use assorted snowflake cutters to cut out shapes.

Place on the prepared trays and place in the fridge for 30 min to chill. Bake biscuits for 10-12 min or until lightly golden. Cool on the trays.

5. Place royal icing in a large bowl and add the strained lemon juice. Whisk for 3-5 min or until thick and increased in volume. If icing is too thick and stiff to pipe, whisk in a little hot water to loosen it up slightly. Place icing in a piping bag fitted with a 1-2mm plain nozzle. Decorate biscuits with icing. Cover surface of remaining icing with plastic wrap. Set snowflakes aside for 3-4 hours or until set.

6. Whisk the remaining icing until smooth. Use the icing to secure the snowflakes around the edge of the pie.

METHOD: 1. Combine the thickened cream, chocolate, ginger, mixed spice, cloves and liqueur in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high for 1-2 min, stirring often, or until the chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Add the butter and stir until melted. Set aside to cool.

2. Whisk the egg yolks into the chocolate mixture, 1 at a time. Add 200ml double thick cream and whisk until the mixture is thick and begins to hold its shape. In a separate clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Swirl ½ tsp caramel topping around the inside of each of 8 serving glasses.

Divide the mousse mixture evenly among the glasses. Place the glasses on a tray and place in the fridge to chill for 6 hours or overnight.

3. Preheat oven to 170°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Roll out the gingerbread dough on a lightly floured sheet of baking paper until 3-4mm thick. Use a 3cm gingerbread man cutter to cut out 16 gingerbread men.

Place on prepared tray. Bake for 10-12 min or until lightly golden and crisp. Set aside on tray to cool completely.

4. Combine extra liqueur and remaining 100ml double thick cream and 1 tbs caramel topping in a bowl. Whisk until just thickened. Divide the cream mixture among the glasses. Top with gingerbread men and dust with cocoa powder.

GINGERBREAD CHRISTMAS TREE Makes 1 tree INGREDIENTS: 1 quantity gingerbread dough 330g packet Queen Royal Icing 60ml (¼ cup) fresh lemon juice, strained silver cachous, to decorate METHOD: 1. Preheat oven to 170°C. Line 3 large baking trays with baking paper. Roll out 1 portion of dough on a lightly floured sheet of baking paper until 3mm thick. Use star cutters to cut out four 2cm stars, six 4cm stars, six 6cm stars, six 8cm stars, six 10cm stars and six 12cm stars, rerolling the dough if necessary. (Use the second portion if you need to, or reserve for another use). Place on prepared trays. Use the tip of a 1cm plain piping nozzle to cut out a hole in the centre of each star. Bake for 10-12 min or until light golden and crisp. Set aside on the trays to cool completely.

2. Place the royal icing in a large bowl. Add the lemon juice. Use a balloon whisk to whisk the icing for 3-5 min or until thick and increased in volume. If the icing is too thick and stiff to pipe, add a little hot water and whisk again to loosen up slightly. Place icing in a piping bag fitted with a 1-2mm plain nozzle. Decorate the points of the stars with icing.

Set aside for 3-4 hours or until set.

3. To assemble the tree, thread the 12cm stars onto a plastic dowel rod, glueing each layer with icing and rotating the stars slightly as you go (see top tips). Continue threading and glueing the remaining stars, in decreasing size, finishing with a 2cm star glued with icing upright at the top of the tree. Pipe extra icing on the stars to create a snowy look and decorate with cachous. Set aside to set.

MAKE| AHEAD FRUIT PICKING FARMS FEATURE GINGERBREAD DOUGH

Makes 2 portions INGREDIENTS: 100g (½ cup, firmly packed) brown sugar 125ml (½ cup) golden syrup 50g butter 340g (2 ¼ cups) plain flour 75g (½ cup) self-raising flour 1½ tbs ground ginger 1½ tsp mixed spice 1 tsp ground cloves ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 egg, lightly whisked

To store gingerbread dough, wrap up tightly in plastic wrap.

Keep in the fridge for up to a week or store in the freezer for up to 2 months. Thaw in the fridge overnight and bring to room temperature before using.

METHOD: 1. Place the sugar, golden syrup and butter in a saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring, for 3-5 min or until the butter is melted and sugar is dissolved. Set aside for 5 min to cool slightly.

2. Combine the flours, ginger, mixed spice, cloves and bicarb in a large bowl. Add the sugar mixture and egg. Stir until combined.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth. Divide into 2 portions. Shape into discs. Cover with plastic wrap. Place in the fridge for 1 hour to rest before using.

TIPS You can purchase ‘Christmas tree’ cookie-cutter sets with all the different sized star cutters needed to make a gingerbread tree.

Purchase plastic dowel rods from specialty cake or craft stores. Ensure the width of the dowel rod is less than 1cm.

Before you start glueing the stars with icing, thread the stars onto the dowel rod to measure how tall the tree will be.

Then, use a serrated knife to trim the dowel rod to fit.

Enjoy this dish alongside a Chenin based sweet wine such as the Ken Forrester Petit Natural Sweet 2019 (Price R77.99)

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2 1

THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)

Platinum Club • De Wetshof Thilbault Merlot 2012 R389 • Delheim Vera Cruz Pinotage 2016 R480 • Ernie Els Signature 2014 R779 • Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2015 R405 • Quoin Rock Chardonnay 2018 R320 • Warwick Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018 R439

SA’S TOP WINE PICKS

Reserve Club • Rietvallei JMB Cabernet Franc 2014 R429 • Hillcrest Saartjie Petit Verdot 2018 R239 • Ernie Els Proprietor’s Blend 2016 R275 • Allée Bleue Shiraz 2017 R219 • Painted Wolf Black Pack Chenin Blanc 2018 R149 • Vuurberg White 2017 R240

Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections

Painted Wolf Black Pack Chenin Blanc 2018 Reserve Club An elegant wine, with an aroma of fresh peach cobbler, melon, citrus and vanilla. The wine has a creamy finessed texture followed by a nice, fresh acid that keeps it bouncy and vibrant.

PAIRING: Suitable for country cooking with a French flair.

Bergsig Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Best Value Club Bergsig Sauvignon Blanc has the appetite appeal of crunchy summer fruits with a vein of lemony freshness.

The ideal food partner on a hot summer’s day. PAIRING: Spicy jalapeño and fig springrolls.

De Wetshof Naissance Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Wine-of-the-Month Club This Bordeaux-style wine captures the essence of one of the world’s great classical red cultivars to create a wine of elegance, power and individuality.

David Biggs

Margaret Fundira

Winnie Bowman

Enjoy intense dark berries, bittersweet chocolate and pencil shavings abound, with palate weight, depth of presence and a lasting finish. PAIRING: Enjoy with roast beef and lamb, fillet steak with a mushroom-based sauce and hearty beef, lamb or game casseroles.

Colin Collard

Claude Felbert

PJ ‘Buks’ Nel

Christine Rudman

Wine-of-the-Month Club • Rascallion Impress Rouge 2018 R129 • De Wetshof Naissance Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 R170 • Allée Bleue Shiraz 2017 R219 • Le Riche Richesse 2017 R159 • Cloverfield Chardonnay 2018 R99 • Boland Reserve No1 Chenin Blanc 2016 R139 • Opstal Carl Everson Cape White Blend 2017 R159 • DeMorgenzon Garden Vineyards Rosé 2019 R95 • Perdeberg Soft Smooth White 2019 R69 • Ken Forrester Petit Natural Sweet 2019 R77 • Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2019 R109 Best Value Club • Rhebokskloof Cellar Selection Flatrock 2016 R109 • Org de Rac Merlot 2017 R105 • Anura Arpeggio SMV 2016 R79 • Canto Pinotage 2017 R129 • DeMorgenzon Garden Vineyards Rosé 2019 R95 • Jail Break Chenin Blanc 2018 R77 • Allée Bleue Isabeau 2015 R129 • Bergsig Sauvignon Blanc 2019 R99 • Perdeberg Soft Smooth White 2019 R69 • Ken Forrester Petit Natural Sweet 2019 R77 • Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2019 R109

Gregory Mutambe

Clive Torr

To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

Irina von Holdt

Tinashe Nyamudoka

In our social circle it has become normal to bring a bottle of wine for the host or hostess when invited to dinner. What is the socially acceptable thing to do with that bottle? Do you open it immediately and share it, or regard it as a gift and put it away to be enjoyed later? The problem is that the hosts might have carefully selected a particular wine to pair with the main dish of the meal. Would it not be a bit rude to imply that your gift of wine is a better choice? Presumably you are on

YOUR WINE FAQS WE ANSWER YOUR WINE RELATED QUESTIONS

easy terms with your hosts, so the problem is not likely to be a serious one in today’s relaxed social atmosphere. You hand over your contribution and let the host decide when to drink it. If it’s a formal occasion and the meal has been presented as a special culinary event, however, it’s safer to present your bottle gift-wrapped, indicating that it is a gift and not intended as a contribution to the meal.

If the host then unwraps it and opens the bottle immediately, it’s not your problem.

I was at a dinner in a very expensive Cape Town restaurant recently, where they actively discouraged patrons from bringing their own wine (corkage was set at R100 a bottle and not more than two bottles were allowed per table).

I was horrified by the wine list prices and eventually asked for a bottle of their “Red House Wine”, which was almost affordable. It turned out to be a completely undrinkable rough Merlot.

There was nothing technically wrong with it. No oxidisation or cork taint, but it was harsh, bitter and tannic. Is it acceptable to send a bottle like that back and ask for a different wine? That would

depend on the restaurant. They could ask you to pay for it even if you reject it. You did, after all, get the wine you ordered and it was not technically faulty. If the restaurateur is keen to keep the good will of his patrons, he or she might decide to take back the bottle, not charge for it, and use it as a “by-the-glass” wine for less discerning customers.

It’s a sad fact that some Cape restaurateurs put ridiculously high prices on their listed wines and risk making the evening a less-than-satisfying experience. If you’ve been to that establishment before and experienced their prices, our advice would be to bring your own bottle even if you have to pay the high fee. At least you won’t be ruining the whole experience.

FAQ.indd 23

All wine, as far as I know, is made from grapes, fermented, stored and bottled. So why can I buy a reasonably drinkable wine for R50 a bottle while others (made from the same grape variety) fetch prices of over R1000 a bottle? Is this just marketing hype or is there such a huge quality difference? A bit of both, actually. Wine is a luxury

item, so clever labeling and marketing can certainly add a few rands to the price. Some irrigated vineyards produce 20 tons or more per hectare and the juice is fermented in huge stainless steel tanks to create vast quantities of drinkable wine at low cost. Other vines grown in hard conditions where only about 4 tons per hectare are harvested, the juice from these grapes is intense in flavour and may be fermented in expensive new imported oak barrels. Great care is taken at every stage of the process, at high cost in labour and time. Sometimes individual berries are selected on sorting tables for special wines. The wine from these vineyards is rich and complex and connoisseurs are willing to pay high prices for them. But wine is all about enjoyment, so if you can derive satisfaction and pleasure from a R50 bottle of wine you’re a lucky, and happy drinker.

2019/11/07 11:29 AM

WINE | Panel Report

THERE’S

bubbly

AND THEN

Bubbly...

THERE’S

The Panel gets serious about tasting wines for the FRIVOLOUS FESTIVE SEASON

BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

2 4

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Panel Report | WINE

I

t’s that time of year when we instinctively reach for the bubbly. Summer’s in full swing, the holidays are upon us, the bubbly’s well chilled and we don’t even need a corkscrew. Napoleon understood these things, although he didn’t bother to wait for summer.

Instead, on Champagne he had this to say, “In defeat I need it, and in victory I deserve it!”

So he drank a lot of it.

We’re always revved up for the bubbly tasting—lots of smiles, lots of anticipation.

And a welcome surprise—we’re confronted with 99 of them! Way too many for a single tasting so we have to taste over two sessions to sort through the impressive number, and impressive the wines are too.

Right now bubblies are riding high with wine lovers, hence the high number. Cellars have spotted this new market, so many of the bubblies are new—untried and untested. It does show, however, because those producers with years of experience deliver beautifully finished wines with poise and polish. The others will find that it takes many vintages to get all the little details right.

So there’s bubbly and then there’s bubbly— and not all are created equal.

SPARKLING CONTENDERS First up are the bubblies that are made in bulk and carbonated, same as ginger ale or cola. There was a time when they were somewhat coarse with bubbles the size of golf balls, but no more. Modern carbonisation is slick and gives wines with millions of tiny, busy bubbles, sometimes a bit fizzy, and that’s how to tell the difference. In a Méthode Cap Classique or MCC the bubbles are less explosive and better controlled, never fizzy.

“These are quite fun, obviously not expensive. Oh, and serve well chilled,” says Winnie.

Dave: “Loved them.”

Greg: “It’s fine to use non-classic varieties here, and they can work.”

In defeat I NEED it, and in victory I DESERVE it!

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL MCC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2011 ALSO LIKED Darling Cellars MCC Blanc de Blanc Brut 2017, L’Ormarins Brut Rosé 2015, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2013, Stony Brook Lyle MCC 2014 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Aetheria Brut Rosé NV, Alvi’s Drift Thornlands MCC NV, Avontuur Brut MCC NV, Babylonstoren Sprankel 2014, Benguela Joie De Vivre 2014, Boschendal Brut NV, Boschendal Brut Rosé NV, Boschendal Grande Cuvée Brut 2014, Bruce Jack Penelope Rosé 2016, Canto Chardonnay MCC 2015, Canto Char/Pinot Noir MCC 2016, Canto Pinot Noir Brut 2017, Christina MCC NV, Christina MCC Brut Rosé NV, Creation Elation (Rosé) MCC 2015, DeMorgenzon MCC NV, De Wet Cravate Brut 2016, Domaine Des Dieux Rosé of Sharron Rosé 2011, Genevieve MCC 2015,

WINE | Panel Report

Christine: “M-mm, just look what you can do with Sauvignon Blanc.”

Next we get into the vexing question of sweet bubblies.

Margaret is quick off the mark: “Normally I don’t like sugar, but it’s just fine in these wines. There’s certainly a market for it.”

Greg: “Oh yes, they’re great for party venues. Their biggest seller is sweet sparkling.”

Oh dear, what would Professor Noakes say?

NON-VINTAGE MCC BLENDS These are the entry level MCCs, and very good they are too. It’s a good place to start because they are young and lively, not too challenging and are guaranteed to give a lift whether you’re at a party of twenty, or sitting alone feeling blue.

“The very fact that so many producers are making these now shows that there’s a market for them,” says Winnie.

“Russia wants our bubblies, too,” says Christine, adding to the growing excitement.

“The Chenins are so lovely, I can’t even pick them out as different,” says Winnie.

“They are my top scorers,” smiles Dave.

THE ROSÉ MCCS A hundred years or so ago rosé sparkling wines were what a gentleman was supposed to drink from an actress’s slipper. Very gallant, but also a charming way to spoil a wine. A good story nonetheless.

Irina: “A lack of serious rosés for me.

These are all rather light, frivolous and

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL

pretty.”

Greg with a smile: “I enjoyed many of these.”

Dave: “Patio wines for me. I was underwhelmed.”

Our foodie, Claude, has another idea: “I’d like to have some of these with a grilled kreef.”

Actually, so would we, if only we could get some kreef.

“Or salmon sashimi,” says Colin. “I always open a sparkling rosé with sushi. The colour matches the salmon.”

So there it is—either the actress’s slipper or the sashimi. You choose.

THE BLANC DE BLANCS Recent tastings have shown this style to be the highest scoring. The reason?

“Loved the flavour, and the depth and delicacy of these wines,” says Winnie.

That sums up the why. Now what about the how? Is it the intrinsic quality of the Chardonnay grapes, or are the winemakers spending more time and trouble on the details in making this wine?

“It’s both,” says Greg.

His comment is expanded on by Winnie.

“Better quality of grapes and extra effort,” she says. “There’s less room for error here.

Blending can often fix up errors, but you can’t do that in a single variety wine.”

Christine agrees. “It’s a specialist thing,” she says.

Graham Beck 2012, Graham Beck Blanc de Blanc 2015, Graham Beck Brut NV, Graham Beck Brut Rosé NV, Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé 2014, Havana Hills Sauv Blanc 2017, Ken Forrester Sparklehorse 2016, Kleine Zalze Vintage Brut MCC 2013, Laborie Blanc de Blanc NV, Laborie Brut NV, Laborie Brut Rosé NV, Leidersburg Brut Rosé 2018, Lord Wine MCC Brut NV, Lord Wine MCC Brut Rosé NV, L’Ormarins Blanc de Blanc 2013, L’Ormarins Brut Classique NV, L’Ormarins Brut Classique Rosé NV, Louisvale MCC Brut NV, Louisvale MCC Rosé NV, Marklew Brut Reserve NV, Mendola Blanc de Blanc 2015, Mulderbosch MCC Brut 2015, Nitida Matriarch MCC 2018, Noble Hill Blanc de Blanc 2016, Paul René MCC Brut 2016, Paul René MCC Brut Rosé 2016, Pierre Jourdan Belle Rosé MCC NV, Pierre Jourdan Blanc de Blanc NV, Pierre Jourdan Brut MCC NV, Rickety Bridge Brut Rosé NV, Rickety Bridge MCC Blanc de Blanc NV, Rijk’s MCC Brut 2014, Saronsberg MCC 2016, Silverthorn The Green Man MCC 2017, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2014, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2015, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2018, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé 2018, Spier Signature MCC 2017, Steenberg 1682 Chardonnay MCC NV, Steenberg 1682 Pinot Noir NV, Stellenrust Clement de Lure MCC NV, Stony Brook Lyle MCC 2015, Tanzanite Brut MCC NV, Tanzanite Brut Rosé MCC NV, Thelema MCC 2015, Upland Earthsong 2018, Villiera Brut Natural 2015, Villiera Monra Brut 2013, Villiera Tradition Brut NV, Villiera Tradition Brut Rosé NV, Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut NV

If you’re looking for a SPECIAL BUBBLY for say, caviar, then make your way to the BLANCS DE BLANC with some years of age behind them And when specialists get busy they are driven by passion and a determination to get it right, sparing no effort to get there.

“Experience shows, doesn’t it?” says Irina.

THE VINTAGE MCCS In the case of Champagnes this is the star style. It is made only in special years and, at the same time, reflects the house style. Not so in SA. “So many wines, but a lot of different wines,” says Claude, looking doubtful.

Irina agrees. “Not a highlight of the tastings,” she says. “A pity.”

Buks, ever gentle, says: “I’m generous when scoring—I gave a lot of these wines good scores.”

Christine: “Not me. I found a lot of faults—oxidation, wrong varieties. As they

age they develop real interest, but not all did. I thought this would be the star category, but it isn’t.”

Greg: “Yes, it’s a mixed bag. I am trying to find a trend, which is the best? Is it Blanc de Blanc, or older wines, or whatever, but they are all so mixed. When too young, though, I must say they are really not good.”

“Better when older, that’s the message,” says Christine.

Clive has the last word. “Anything that stays on the lees for longer,” he says, “and then stays on the cork for at least two years is better.”

So if you’re looking for a special bubbly for say, caviar, or even that kreef, then

Panel Report | WINE

make your way to the Blancs de Blanc, choose something with a few years of age and made by a specialist producer, and you won’t go wrong.

From the Wine-of-the Month Club panel... a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and... don’t forget the bubbly.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

AN ADVENT CALENDAR TO TEMPT EVERY TASTE Count down Santa’s arrival with style. Delicious surprises on each day leading up to Christmas.

WINE ADVENT CALENDAR: 24 x 375ml bottles of SA wine and tasting note necktags Retails at only R2599

12 DAYS OF CHRISTMAS: 12 x 750ml bottles of SA wine and tasting note necktags Retails at R1499 for red only, R1099 for white only and R1399 for mixed selection

PRICES EXCLUDE INSURANCE AND DELIVERY

CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Boland Reserve No1 Chenin Blanc 2016 (Price R139.00) This fine, handcrafted Chenin Blanc has layers of peach, lime, herbs and nuts on the nose and is well supported by integrated French oak tannins. The “sur lie” extended lees contact period adds complexity and a creamy, textured mouthfeel to the wine. Drink now.

PAIRING: Delicious with spicy food, calamari and prawn risotto.

Ed's Choice.indd 28

2. Vuurberg White 2017 (Price R240.00) This beautiful blend crafted by Donovan Rall shows marmalade, limes, burnt orange peel, with some floral notes on the nose. Minerality leads on the palate with fresh citrus and a waxy, honeyed finish. Drink now. PAIRING: A delicious partner to grilled seafood.

Best with light-intensity meats, fish or chicken.

3. Le Lude Rosé Brut MCC NV (Price R299.00) Ripe cherries, red lollipop and raspberry aromas. These are followed by some hints of grapefruit and wild rose. The palate opens with texture supported by elegant acidity. Drink in 3 to 5 years. PAIRING: Triple cream (Brie-style) cheese or sweet bread and mascarpone cheese.

2019/11/08 1:19 PM

Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

4. Waterford Estate The Jem 2014 (Price R1650.00) Intriguing aromatics of fresh fruit, wild spice, warmth and complexity complemented by the well layered and integrated tannins to offer an elegant yet long lasting finish that is classically dry and rewarding. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Perfect partner to rich grilled meats, peppery sauces and dishes with high flavour.

7. Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R425.00) Intense dark colour. The nose shows restraint, with deep underlying aromas of complex blue and blackberry perfumes. Cedary aromas. The palate is nervous and fresh followed by fine, smooth tannins. Drink in 10 years.

PAIRING: Grilled or roast lamb with garlic and rosemary.

10. Waterford Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2015 (Price R295.00) Complex red and dark fruit, earthy and cold stone lead the aromatics, accompanied by plum fruit and leather spice undertones. Natural acidity and the classic granular tannins. Drink in 15 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with lean red meats such as venison as well as a variety of earthy components. Try it with lamb shawarma, gyros or Asian 5-spice pork.

5. Jail Break Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R77.00) Fresh sweet melon, apple and white peach aroma’s burst onto the scene with supporting aromas of honeysuckle and melon found on the mid-palate.

Drink in 2-4 years. PAIRING: Pair with matured goats cheese, oven-baked pizza Peking duck dishes, South East Asian cuisine or pork chops with apples.

8. Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R289.00) It’s all about chunky, chewy, magically integrated tannin. Luxurious deeppile velvet fruit with mint-sprigged red berries and Christmas fruitcake. On the nose blueberry, cassis and ripe black plum mix with cool cedar whiffs and the faintest hint of basil. Drink now.

PAIRING: Rack of Karoo lamb and panwilted garden fresh spinach.

11. Lammershoek White Mysteries 2017 (Price R219.00) Golden wheat colour. White peach, zest of lemon and lime with beautiful floral undertones. Elegant yet bursting with flavours of chalky minerality, quince, and Granny Smith apples with undertones of spice. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Pairs with buttered crayfish grilled on a braai or fresh caught yellow tail from the West Coast.

6. The Goose Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R119.00) The Goose Sauvignon Blanc is an exciting and unique tasting experience with tropical fruit flavours of guava on the nose. The wine lingers beautifully on the palate, with a complexity that showcases a typical cool-climate mineraliy with balanced acidity. Drink now. PAIRING: The Goose Sauvignon Blanc will partner well with most salads and fish dishes. A real treat with freshly caught tuna and sushi.

9. Delaire Graff Botmaskop 2017 (Price R279.00) Rich aromas of cassis and spice with intense liquorice and blackberry flavours on the palate and fine, lingering tannins. Despite the drought, the dry, warm weather resulted in healthy grapes and small berries with good intensity. Drink in 5–10 years.

PAIRING: Enjoy with springbok shank, chicken and other light meats as well as lightly-spiced dark meats such as charcuterie, venison, lamb or beef.

12. Opstal Carl Everson Cape White Blend 2017 (Price R159.00) The cultivars Opstal grows on the farm in conjunction with Chenin as the backbone to show off the sexiness and fruit purity of the Slanghoek Valley terroir. The Roussanne provides the linear direction while the Semillon, Viognier and Colombard sit pretty to claim all the attention. Drink now or in 1-2 years. PAIRING: Roasted vegetables, fish and even cream and oil-based sauces.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

13. Delheim Chardonnay Sur Lie 2017 (Price R190.00) Granny Smith apples, citrus, stone fruits with subtle nuances of oak on the nose follows through on the subtle, but well-structured palate. Elegant and well-balanced with a mineral touch on the finish. Drink now or in 4-5 years. PAIRING: Crab, prawns, grilled fish, chicken, pasta or risotto with spring vegetables.

16. Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2019 (Price R71.00) Notes of pomegranate, cranberry with nuances of candy floss and floral notes add to the complexity of this wine.

Delicate flavours of red berry fruit linger on the palate and add to the freshness of the wine. Drink now or in 5 years.

PAIRING: Enjoy with pastas, chicken and shellfish, as well as roast vegetables and summer salads.

19. Hillcrest Saartjie Petit Verdot 2018 (Price R239.00) Rich deep garnet red colour.

Concentrated cassis, violets and liquorice aroma on the nose, with hints of spice, smoky and oak flavours on the palate. Dense palate with impressive tannin structure and persistent finish. Drink now or in 5-7 years.

PAIRING: Lamb stew, ground beef burgers or Iranian beryooni.

14. Delheim Grand Reserve 2015 (Price R340.00) Classical in its own, with aromas of truffle, mint cassis and delicate nuances of red berry fruit flavours. This is a fullbodied wine well supported on the palate without overpowering its delicate red berry notes. Drink now or in 10 years.

PAIRING: Red meat, including prime rib, a good burger, roast or grilled lamb and portabello mushrooms.

17. Ernie Els Proprietor’s Blend 2016 (Price R275.00) Strewn with black fruits, exotic spice and chards of dark chocolate. Sweet spicy oak melts into a dense, powerfullyfruited and structured core. Cassis purity and salty edge, meaty, savoury and spicy edge. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Great with red meats, so burgers, short rib, steak, pizza with tomato sauce, mushrooms and gouda cheese.

20. Warwick Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018 (Price R439.00) Flavours of blackcurrant, passion fruit, litchi and citrus. There’s a hint of white florals such as winter lilies, with an edge of minerality calling up wet slate.

Aromatics, structure and body. Subtle French oak flavours complement the blend. Drink in 3-10 years. PAIRING: Yellowtail, chicken or roasted veal.

15. Delheim Vera Cruz Pinotage 2016 (Price R480.00) Layered aromas of plums, red currants, tobacco, black cherries and chocolate truffles. Palate is fruit flavours of plums, mulberry and fresh cherries. Fine, velvety tannins underpin the fruit core and the wine shows impeccable balance and depth of flavours on the finish.

Drink now or in 8 years. PAIRING: Grilled or slow-cooked sausages, beef or lamb.

18. Le Riche Richesse 2017 (Price R159.00) Aromas of fresh plums and red cherries, balanced with a touch of oak on the nose. Juicy mouth filling flavours of red berries are supported by a fine, silky tannin structure and a rounded long finish. The Cabernet Sauvignon component adds body and complexity whilst. Drink now or in 4-8 years.

PAIRING: Duck, venison and great with any Italian dish. Great versatility across the board due to Cinsaut component!

21. Ernst Gouws & Co Pinot Noir 2017 (Price R192.00) Quintessential aromas of sharp red cherry and fresh cranberries. An accessible palate brimming with sweet and sour red berry notes is complemented by generous firm acidity, dried herbs and a delightfully pure raspberry finish. Drink now. PAIRING: A fine partner to Charcuterie platters with brie and camembert, as well as crispy, seared duck.

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

23. Withington Voorkamer Cape Potstill Brandy (Price R469.00) A carefully selected 7-year old, Cape potstill brandy. With a wild and gorgeous label, depicting the Withington family crest, this brandy has a gentle, almost floral nose, a nutty fruity taste and an elegant mouthfeel.

Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with venison meat, fish. It’ll pair well with rich desserts.

22. Ernst Gouws & Co Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R429.00) Rich, cherry red aromas with bright rim to start. The nose lingering and powerful with ripe plums and cigar box and mulberry notes on the finish. Rich and full in the mouth matching the flavours as promised on the nose. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Wine to be paired with full-flavoured food, meat with fat like oxtail would work superbly.

24. Babylonstoren Sprankel MCC 2014 (Price R699.00) Golden Delicious apple, green lollipop, tropical tones as well as gentle biscuit and brioche flavours. Fresh and wellbalanced with a very fine mousse and soft acidity to balance the almond skin and passion fruit tones. Delicious lime and grapefruit. Drink now or in 8 years. PAIRING: Cheese, fruit, salmon, shellfish and caviar.

Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Anura Vineyards is owned and run by Tymen, Jenny and Lance Bouma. Positioned on the foothills on the Simonsberg Mountains, Anura boasts a wide variety of soils, slopes and microclimates.

This allows us to grow a wide selection of cultivars, some uncommon in South Africa, and also to match each cultivar with its ideal soil and microclimate. Our tasting venue is the ideal place to sit back, relax and sample our wide range of interesting wines before heading over to the Wagon Trail restaurant to complete a perfect afternoon with a sumptuous meal, enjoyed in the heart of the Stellenbosch winelands.

www.anura.co.za @anuravineyards

@anuravineyards

021 875 5360 • info@anura.co.za

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The Placebo Effect

M

edical scientists have recently been conducting a series of studies into the ‘placebo effect’ which has long been known as an effective cure for a whole range of medical complaints. Doctors would offer their patients pills that contain nothing more than sugar or salt and their patients would get better. Ignorant sceptics scoffed and said things like: “There was probably nothing wrong with him to begin with. It’s all just imaginary.”

Recently, however, new facts have emerged.

It appears the human mind can trigger all sorts of very real chemical reactions in the body.

If a patient believes he is being given medication a healing sequence can actually occur, even though the ‘medication’ was nothing more than an injection of distilled water. The opposite can also occur. In one test, patients

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were given the anti-depressant Valium without being told they had received it. It had no effect at all. Sometimes the mere sight of a stethoscope hanging round the neck of the doctor is enough to trigger the healing effect.

Never underestimate the power of the placebo. This placebo effect can play a significant role in wine assessment, which is why serious wine judging is often done in cubicles where judges cannot see each other. If you take a sip of your wine and can see one of the other judges screwing up his face in disgust, you immediately look for the reason.

There must be something bad to have provoked that reaction, so you find it and give the wine a low score. During serious judging sessions judges do not speak to each other or look at each other.

At the weekly Wine-of-the-Month Club tastings the panel members taste their wines in different sequences so no two

are likely to be tasting the same wine at the same time.

Try the placebo effect on some of your more snobbish wine friends one day. Pour a cheap plonk from a bottle with an elegant French first growth label and see whether they like it. Or pour a great Chateau wine from a bottle with a Tassenberg label. In both cases you will probably get incorrect assessments, but that may not be a matter of ignorance or snobbery. (It could just be that the label triggered a very real chemical reaction and produced the right combination of juices in the subject’s mouth and nose to make the cheap wine taste genuinely great or the classic wine to taste poor.)

It’s easy to play wine tricks on people, but it should only be done in friendly fun. Wine is always there to be enjoyed and should never be the cause of embarrassment.

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

Dave Biggs on the power of the wine placebo

s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R

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Our Story Boschkloof was purchased in 1995 and named after the natural ravine or ‘kloof’ on the farm. The land consists of rolling hills and picturesque mountain backdrops. The soil consists mostly of decomposed granite and koffieklip. The original vineyards on the farm consisted mostly of Cape Riesling, but Jacques decided to remove it and plant better-suited cultivars like Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay.

Today Boschkloof is most renowned for their Syrah, especially the single vineyard bottling called Epilogue.

It was the first red wine of South Africa to score 98 points by an internationally acclaimed critic.

W W W. B O S C H K LO O F W I N E S .CO M

Tel: 021 881 3268 • info@boschkloofwines.com •

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Polkadraai Rd, Stellenbosch Central, Stellenbosch

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+27 21 888 4740 | KNORHOEK ROAD, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA |

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