Pork to fork

Pretty in Pink

Small-hold pig farming is an old Welsh tradition that is still being upheld by many porc producers in Wales today. A number of farmers in Wales have managed to produce the best quality of flavour by becoming experts on the breeds they care for on their farms. Some specialize in rare Welsh and British breeds, working to ensure that the tradition of producing porc from these breeds is not lost. taste.blas take a look at a few different farms and their different approaches to farming porc in Wales

The Welsh countryside provides an ideal natural environment for free-range grazing, as the fields and woodlands allow for pigs to forage for their own food and live a more authentic and wild existence– one that also proves to be sustainable. This lifestyle, combined with good husbandry and care of pigs tends to result in top tier flavour in their porc products. However, every farm approaches their craft in a different way to produce the happiest and highest quality pig….

Piggin Good Pork - Mary Benfield

Located by the Northern coastal town of Colwyn Bay, Piggin Good Pork is a pig farm run by Mary Benfield since 1979. Mary follows simple and traditional farming methods, ensuring to prioritize the happiness and well-being of her animals. She notes that “Being from a farming family myself, I am keen not to forget the practices and experience handed down from my grandfather and his forefathers.” It is thanks to farmers like Mary that traditional farming methods can be carried forward into future generations.

Piggin Good Pork is home to around 90 pigs, all of which are cared for with close attention to the pig’s needs. The pigs reared on the farm are all rare British breeds, including Oxford Sandy and Black, Gloucestershire Old Spot and British Lop pigs. Mary is passionate about supporting the farming of these breeds, as they produce a particularly juicy and delectable porc that is loved by locals. They even have some boar-crosses that have a greatly unique flavour to them. Mary holds great affection for her pigs, commenting that the “pigs are brilliant to work with”. The farm has been very successful with breeding of pedigree Oxford Sandy and Black pigs, and now have their pigs all over the UK– including in Scotland, other parts of Wales, and scattered throughout England. Mary noted: “We bred an Oxford Sandy and Black boar who was exported to Holland to start a herd of the breed there. You may imagine we are very proud.” The great success of this farm shows the value in traditional good husbandry.

While the farm is working towards having the pigs roam and forage freely on the 105 acre farm yearround, they have faced some difficulties due to environmental circumstances. The farm is located in a hollow, meaning that water can come in from different areas when it rains making the terrain very muddy. This has made it too difficult to keep the pigs out in the winter. Mary and her family have built yards so that the pigs can be outside, and are currently doing work in the woods to clear space to work towards getting them back out again. Mary believes that the natural Welsh environment is key to the amazing flavour in the porc she produces. In particular, the sea-side climate results in a darker meat that is stronger in flavor, and their customers often say they’ve never tasted porc like what is produced at the farm. The farm sells whole pigs to a local farm shop, Bondant, and also sends the porc to be prepared and packaged off the premises to be sold locally.

Rhosyn Farm – Niel and Emma Rose

Emma and her husband Niel own a traditional, smallscale 100 acre farm in Camarthenshire named Rhosyn Farm. They own a herd of Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs, a native breed which produces a great bacon and porc. The pigs are free to roam on the rich woodlands on the farm, allowing them to graze on a wide variety of minerals and nutrients. Piglets are also encouraged to wean naturally. Emma and Niel believe that the natural conditions and clean air provided by the Welsh countryside is key to delicious porc with strong flavour, along with ensuring that the pigs lead stress-free lives under their meticulous care. The proof is in the sausage, as their flavoured sausages have won six gold awards at the Royal Welsh Winter Fair.

Cwm Farm - Ruth Davies

Ruth Davies and her Husband are pig and highland cattle farmers based at Cwm farm in Rhyd-y-fro, near Pontardawe in South Wales. At Cwm farm, they are intent on using traditional farming practices that have been in use for hundreds of years. They raise their Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs free-range in the outdoors, where they have access to fresh running water, fields, and woodlands where they can forage on acorns and other foods. This old and natural approach to pig farming is also incredibly sustainable, something which Ruth is very passionate about. They want to be able to give their pigs the most natural surroundings and lifestyle possible. She also believes that this life-style is key to a great-tasting porc, as the pigs are happy, well-looked after, and are eating a varied, yet native, diet.

Ruth also likes to experiment with what sorts of porc products they can produce at the farm, like artisan salami crisps and biltong, and always uses local ingredients in her products. She loves seeing the process of creating the porc product from beginning to end, and seeing how customers react to trying new ways of enjoying porc. It is great to see that farmers

using such traditional methods are still experimenting with how their product can be processed in a unique and interesting way.

Ty Siriol - Suzy Williams

Suzy Williams and her Husband Martyn own a 5 acre plot in Swansea that is home to 50 pure breed Pedigree Welsh pigs – a herd that is continuing to grow. While the farm is very new, at Ty Siriol they are passionate about using traditional farming practices. They believe that happy pigs that are well-cared for are the source of great-tasting porc, and they pride themselves in being attentive to all of their animals and sourcing everything on the farm locally. They ensure to put their pigs through as little stress and change as possible, and even keep them in their sibling groups! Suzy and Martyn are very aware of how the natural climate in Wales can impact the flavour of their porc, so they move their herd inside for the winter months to limit the fat content in their pigs. While they are new to farming, they absolutely love the hard work and high reward offered by this profession.

Red Valley Farm (Cwm Coch) - Graeme and Andy

Graeme and Andy are business partners who run Cwm Coch farm, otherwise known as Red Valley Farm. They have a great passion for their pigs, and have managed to raise a total herd of 76 pigs, having only started with three pigs and two Wild Boars (Minnie and Mouse!). All their pigs are mixed from wild boar and are crossed with Saddleback and Welsh White pigs. They care deeply about their pigs and how they are kept. Andy noted: “we get satisfaction from seeing the animals born, raised, growing and just enjoying the natural environment we have provided for them.” The pigs are kept in large grass and soil plots, in which they are free to roam and potter around as much as they please. Having such a small herd in large pens is a great advantage, as it makes it easier for Graeme and Andy to keep an eye on the welfare of the pigs, ensuring that each individual pig is cared for in order to produce the highest quality of porc.

The pigs at Cwm Coch are fed well with local grains and hay. The grain is supplied by two local breweries, and Graeme and Andy have recently managed to become self-sufficient in the production of hay and haylage for their pigs. This is a great achievement, and ensures that the pigs only eat the best and most local food. Graeme even remarked that “they eat better than us sometimes!” At Cwm Coch they always prioritize the pigs, as they are what keep the business going so that they can continue to provide for their families and be able to pass it down the generations. They also have a great deal of affection for their pigs, and are able to tell their customers who is who in the herd, how all the pigs are related, and exactly which pig they are eating.

At the farm, they produce mainly sausages and hamburgers from the pigs. These are very popular, as they infuse the porc with a range of flavours – from mustard to leek. Their most popular product, the boar and apple burgers, is an “outrageous seller”. They also supply pretty much every other part of the animal, including bacon, belly porc, gammons, and leg and shoulder joints. As a small business and small-scale producer, they are able to take special requests from their customers and prepare whatever specific porcrelated product they would like.

The passion that small-scale pig farmers in Wales hold for ensuring that their pigs are treated with care using traditional methods is incredibly admirable. It is this passion and love for the animal and its product that allows for tradition to be maintained and carried forward into the next generations. It is clear that happy herds and good husbandry and knowledge of how different factors affect the animal are the key to sustainably producing porc with great flavour.

The Baker’s Pig – Andrew and Liz Baker

Andrew and Liz Baker run a Welsh Charcuterie and Smokehouse, the Baker’s Pig, where they sell a range of smoked, fermented, and air-dried porc products. All of the proc that they process and sell at their shop comes directly from their very own farm, which is located nearby Brecon Beacons National Park. They clearly hold a great deal of commitment to producing the finest porc, as they are involved in every step of the process– from caring for their pigs, to processing and selling their porc. The Baker’s Pig truly represents an authentic farm-to-table business.

Liz and Andrew were first drawn to Wales and pigkeeping because they wanted a better quality of life that was more estranged from the hustle and bustle of the city. Andrew and Liz bought their farm, Ty’r Cwm, in 2011. Ty’r Cwm, which sits on the base of the Black Mountain, had not been farmed since the mid1970s. It was somewhat of a local institution, and Liz and Andrew have worked to reinstate the traditional farmhouse, revive the farmland whilst prioritising the use of sustainable farming methods.

On the farm, the Bakers have acquired herds of rare-breed and national heritage livestock. Not only are these breeds great in flavour, but Liz and Andrew are keen on contributing to the continuation of the survival of these breeds. Andrew noted: “The use of rare-breed, free-range meats provides us with the highest quality primary produce from which we create our traditionally crafted, artisan foods. Knowing where your food comes from is becoming increasingly important to consumers, as is the demand for quality over quantity”.

Liz and Andrew first started experimenting with charcuterie as a hobby, drying and fermenting sausages in their own home. Seeing as they were successful, they buckled down to research how to create health-grade charcuterie that was 100% safe to eat and sell. Andrew even enrolled in a curing and smoking course at the School of Artisan Food in Nottinghamshire. Now, they have upgraded from DIY domestic curing to building a proper production facility on their farm. They now sell their products at their farm as well as at their local farmers market.