Reasons to be Beerful

All the beer and no idea

Myfanwy Alexander

I may have had a bit of an epiphany about beer as I emerged, like a sociable mole, from the hibernation of lockdown. I am of that generation which embraced tasteless lager as a pointless act of Oedipal rebellion: as we sat on the moquette banquettes cradling our gaseous halves of Arctic Light, we knew we were kicking against our fathers standing by the bar with their hoppy pints. Which actually tasted of something. en, in my early adult life, the converts’ zeal of the whiskery champions of what was then called ‘Real Ale’ had me reaching for a bottle of Black Tower. And so I plodded my beerless way through life, having the odd bottle of Cobra in the Light of Asia or feeling myself on safer ground with a can of Carling when at parties hosted by friends not averse to mixing white wine with lemonade

But beer was waiting for me and I recently found myself staring in disbelief at a pump which seemed to say ‘Mango IPA.’ It was indeed a fruit- avoured ale and it was downright delicious. I have since got my laughing gear round a wide variety of these novel beers and many of my favourites are Welsh. With our water, we are o to a head start in the quest for good ales and as the gloomy spectre of ‘thou shalt not’ retreats and we revive the Welsh culture of our pubs, it is small wonder that so many beers now compete for the title ‘Prince of Ales.’ Given my predilection for a tropical fruit and my absurd local pride, I’ll have to start out with Green Man Growler Last Mango in Powys by Mantle Brewery which not only is fruity and delicious whilst rejoicing in a punning name but reminds us of the great synergy between Welsh beer and events.

e National Eisteddfod may be an event with traditions steeped in non-conformity but today, the ability to meet friends over a pint is embedded in the experience. My Eisteddfod pint of choice has to have a Welsh name and what could be more appropriate than a pint of Tomos Watkin’s ‘Cwrw Haf,’ or Summer Beer? It’s light but full of avour and the tangy scent is so evocative that I dare not pour myself a glass until at least October, when I will have recovered from PostEisteddfod Malaise.

Of course, you don’t have to be in a eld full of poets for the drinking of beer to be an event, a realisation which struck me as I found myself once more able to meet friends outside our own homes, that not only do pubs need beers, but beers need pubs. A well-kept draught beer is factorally di erent from its bottled cousin and I would almost go so far as to say that the di erence is as great as between tinned and fresh peaches. I know great technical strides have been taken to make beer at home taste and have the same mouth feel as draught but there is still something about a freshly-drawn pint which keeps me going back to the pub. Like my ctional detective, I think a pint of Monty’s takes a lot of beating, a mischief most of the year and a seasonal special brew at Christmas.

If you can keep your hands o your ales for long enough, they make versatile ingredients, including in our iconic national dish, Welsh Rarebit. I’ve been giving some of the great Welsh beers a culinary run out and Llangollen Brewery’s Twist and Stout makes a super-smooth version of the chocolate cake o en made with an Irish brand. Safe as Milk, the Cra y Devil stout with the secret ingredient of Coal Town co ee, can give a sophisticated twist to the icing of a co ee cake, though keep an eye on the consistency. Polly’s Brew Sweet Treasure Sloe Sour turned some rather elderly ducks shot by a friend into a splendid casserole but by the time he called by with another brace, I’d polished o the Polly’s, I’m afraid.

So, 2022 is going to be the Year of Beer, as far as I’m concerned, on the sofa, in the pub or rejoicing in returning Welsh events. Iechyd Da!