Dining Out in Style

from taste. blas magazine: Issue 3, Summer 2019

Very, Very Tasty

Restaurant Reviews Gwesty Cymru, Aberystwyth

A trip to Aberystwyth is hard to beat, and a stay at Gwesty Cymru is always a treat. Named after Geraint Jarman’s legendary Welsh rock anthem, it was the brainchild of Huw and Beth Roberts. The former seafront B&B was Aber’s first ‘boutique hotel’, but has created waves since 2007 for its highly acclaimed restaurant as well. It claims a central spot by the prom along with a unique seaside terrace, and a killer sunset view of Cardigan Bay. Locals always know that summer has finally arrived by the sounds of laughter and clinking glasses outside.

After checking in to my lovely light-filled room, up the striking spiral staircase, I enjoyed a quick run along the promenade, in anticipation of a hearty Ceredigion supper. The hotel-restaurant’s minimalist decor mixes Blaenau Ffestiniog slate with accents from Doctor Who. This is mirrored by a menu filled with endless modern twists on classic Welsh ingredients. It’s a marriage of ideas between inventive Chef Will Ainsworth and inspired co-owner Beth.

I kicked off the evening with a first for me – a glass of ‘medd’ from Penrhyncoch’s Shire Meadery. Fearing a cloying honey-filled concoction, I was delighted to find it reminiscent of a light and floral sparkling wine. With asparagus in season, I plumped for the risotto as a starter, that was a creamy dream of a dish. Balanced with the richness of a Birchgrove egg, it created a storm of fresh flavours in my head. The house white wine – a citrussy Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – cut through this glorious savoury pudding like a tidal wave.

The main course of roast lamb rump from Tywyn, up the Ceredigion coast, was yet another masterstroke. Presented with a port, thyme and shallot sauce, it was a reminder of Welsh home-cooking at its best. As I admired the purple rays of a ‘Faberystwyth’ sunset I savoured the highlight of the meal; no other word will do to describe the Bara Brith Bread and Butter Pudding, except for ‘bendigedig!’. Drizzled with marmalade custard and Penderyn whisky sauce, it made me envy all who live all year in Aberystwyth.

I was lulled to sleep by the sound of waves and woke up ready to face one final epic feast. A perennial on the menu is the breakfast Scotch Egg, filled with sausage, bacon, mushrooms and Birchgrove egg, on a bed of rosti potatoes with Bloody Mary sauce. Miraculously light and moreish, it is another Gwesty Cymru invention – so popular indeed, that you’ll find it on the lunch menu, and for dinner, as a hearty starter! A longheld tradition in Aberystwyth, is to ‘kick the bar’ in the shadow of Constitution Hill. By raising the bar to the rafters however, Gwesty Cymru has long since won the hearts of the Welsh.

Lowri Haf Cooke

Palé Hall,

Llandderfel

I’d been curious to discover the secret of Palé Hall since the news that was announced last autumn. The luxury country house hotel in Llandderfel, on the cusp of Denbighshire, claimed the only AA 5 Red Star award outside London. Added to that, Chef Gareth Stevenson’s menu (formerly of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze) was a brand new Welsh addition to the Good Food Guide. As it’s not far from Bala, where some of my family reside, I booked a Sunday evening supper and overnight stay. I did not expect to be utterly blown away by such a charming get-away.

I imagine a stay at Palé Hall would be glorious all year, but my visit was blessed with blue summer skies. At the manor’s grand entrance wild rabbits abound, with 50 acres of grounds to cover along the river Dyfrdwy (Dee). It was built by Henry Robertson, a 19th century industrialist and railway engineer, and the entire hotel is powered by water from a nearby stream. Following the stunning drive over, I was drawn to the garden for a walk through the bluebell wood, before enjoying a glass of Palé fizz. With an hour until supper, I enjoyed the comforts of my Carmarthen bedroom – with its lovely vista through the trees towards Llandderfel.

An early supper with my Anti Enid was a treat for us both, as we experienced the Chef’s six course seasonal tasting menu. Hosted in the grand Henry Robertson dining room, it was an evening of revelations. An added bonus was the fact that pastry chefs Adam Cleal and Sam Widnall were riding high on Channel 4’s Bake Off:The Professionals. I rarely begin at the end, but the wild strawberry mousse was the finest – and prettiest - dessert of its kind. It followed a feast of seasonal flavours, that began with braised pork cheek, brightened with rhubarb and pistachio, then a comforting dish of grilled mackerel and Jersey Royals.

Without a doubt, the Welsh black beef, and lamb loin were the stand-out dishes – and no wonder, in this agricultural heartland of Wales. But the Denbighshire wood pigeon caught me by complete surprise; full of flavour and balanced with blueberry and savoy cabbage. Nearing the end, the ‘Rhubarb and Custard’ was a playful tribute to the Welsh landscape outside, with the granola ‘topsoil’ crowned with a grassy sorrel granita. Outstanding.

Following a fabulous night’s sleep, and a lovely early walk, I headed with purpose to the dining room. The bar keeps being raised for the best breakfast in Wales, and we have a new winner in the case of Palé Hall. The ‘crempog’ was divine – a stack of Welsh buttermilk pancakes drizzled with yoghurt and a sharp berry compote. If I could have stayed there for a week, I would have done so in a heart-beat, but how enchanting to have lived the dream for one night!

Lowri Haf Cooke

Restaurant Reviews Plas Dinas, Bontnewydd

It’s 50 years this July since the investiture of the Prince of Wales at Castell Caernarfon, that split Welsh society in two. Recently, the entire event was reconstructed for The Crown – the smash-hit Netflix series, starring this year’s Oscar-winner Olivia Colman. Filmed in Caernarfon, the main cast stayed in splendour at Plas Dinas Country House. Based on the outskirts of the village of Bontnewydd, it’s located far from the madding crowd. But this five star hotel is a blue-blood affair, with even stronger links to the royals than The Crown.

Originally dating from the 17th Century, Plas Dinas came into the posession of Robert Jones of Ynyscynhaearn during the 19th Century, who oversaw extensive Victorian additions to the house. It came to prominence following his grandson Antony Armstrong-Jones’ marriage to Princess Margaret in 1961. As Constable of the Castle, he arranged the whole investiture shebang – but it was his half-brother Peregrine who inherited Plas Dinas.

For those who adore the Royals, there’s plenty at Plas Dinas to enjoy, as the household is filled to the brim with family mementos. But as an ardent Welsh nationalist, I found plenty of other delights, that ensured a memorable stay in May. One highlight was the view, from the wildflower path, over Y Foryd towards Ynys Llanddwyn on Anglesey. I was gobsmacked to see this iconic Welsh lovers’ pilgramage spot – make a note to stay around Saint Dwynwen’s Day in January!

Another, without a doubt, was Daniel ap Geraint’s contemporary (and bilingual) Welsh menu at The Gunroom. Formerly of Caernarfon hit-restaurant Blas, this Prestatyn born chef is a prince among men, whose understanding of flavours keeps guests, and locals, expressing a joyful ‘Amen’! The treacle bread to begin was like manna from heaven – or rather, the closest possible flavour, bara brith.

The scorched mackerel starter was tempered by a cucumber sorbet, followed by a cool peach and lemon balm palate cleanser. A good job too as the Caernarfon beef and dripping chips had only one job to do; they came, they saw, they conquered. Whilst the ravishing treacle-cured sirloin offered a comradely nod to the ‘bara brith’, the dripping chips gave me visions, meant to be shared with the chef, telling him to open a ‘pop-up’ on the A487 forthwith. Last, but not least, a perfectly executed Gypsy Tart which sent me to bed on a cloud of caramel and brown-sugar mousse.

My bedroom, Snowdon, was comfort itself; what more could be said about a suite fit for a prince? For me, however, my stay was perfected by the respect shown – in all aspects – to the Welsh language. Over a fabulous full Welsh breakfast I was tickled pink to read a list for guests of useful Welsh phrases. Upon leaving Plas Dinas I recalled my old high school motto; ‘Coron Gwlad ei Mamiaith’. Loosely translated, it really says it all: ‘The Crown is the country’s mother tongue.’

Lowri Haf Cooke

The Walnut Tree Inn, Llanddewi Ysgyryd

Bwytai Cymru is a new Welsh-language book by Lowri Haf Cooke exploring fifty special eateries in Wales. ‘The Walnut Tree’ in Llanddewi Ysgyryd, on the outskirts of Abergavenny, has been a much-loved Welsh foodie attraction for years. Antrim-born Chef Shaun Hill’s style of cooking is personal, precise, and fuss-free. His Michelin star menu is inspired by his far-flung travels, and includes many ‘greatest hits’ from his career in the kitchen which spans over fifty years. The Kerala fish curry is a comforting classic, as is the rabbit with mustard crème fraîche, and the set lunch menu - a national treasure - is an absolute steal.

Un o’r bwytai brafiaf yng Nghymru, heb os, yw’r Wanut Tree, sy’n hawlio seren Michelin. Yn hafan glyd, gartrefol, yng nghysgod yr Ysgyryd Fawr, fe’i lleolir ar ffordd gefn ychydig i’r Dwyrain o’r Fenni. Mae ymweliad yn brofiad arbennig bob tro, a hanes y bwyty yn chwedlonol erbyn hyn. Bu iddo enw da erioed, dan arweiniad Franco ac Ann Taruschio, wrth uno cynnyrch Cymreig mewn glân briodas â seigiau Eidalaidd. Wedi deugain mlynedd yno, roedd hi’n amser ymddeol; aeth pethau o chwith braidd i’r bwyty wedi hynny...

I gychwyn, cafwyd llwyddiant dan arweiniad Stephen Terry, ond bu tensiynau rhyngdo ef a’r rheolwr, Francesco Matteoli. Wedi i’r cogydd disglair adael i sefydlu The Hardwick, daeth y dyn ei hun, Gordon Ramsay – nid i goginio ond i ffilmio’i raglen deledu, Kitchen Nightmares. Peidied neb â chredu fod pob cyhoeddusrwydd yn help; roedd y bennod ddrwgenwog yn ddigon i gau’r bwyty am flwyddyn gron.

Yn wreiddiol, doedd gan Shaun Hill ddim diddordeb mewn camu i’r adwy, er i ffawd druenus y bwyty ei dristáu. Tra oedd yn llywio ceginau Michelin Gidleigh Park yn Nyfnaint a Merchant House yn Llwydlo roedd y ‘Gollen Ffengig’ wastad yn ddihangfa braf iddo, gyda’r croeso teuluol a’r bwyd syml yn plesio bob tro.

Ond wedi deugain mlynedd a mwy yn y busnes ei hun, roedd yn hapus i sgrifennu a gwneud gwaith ymgynghorol, i Fortnum and Mason a British Airways ymysg cwmnïau eraill. Fe’i ganed yn Antrim yng Ngogledd Iwerddon, cyn symud gyda’i deulu yn blentyn i Camden Town. Wedi graddio yn y Clasuron, dechreuodd weithio yng ngheginau Llundain, gan bontio’r cyfnod rhwng y traddodiad Ffrengig a Nouvelle Cuisine.

Dros y blynyddoedd bu’n gysylltiedig â gwreiddiau gastronomeg foleciwlar, ac yn geffyl blaen wrth ddathlu bwyd rhanbarthol Prydain. Roedd wrth ei fodd yn trawsffurfio Llwydlo yn ‘gyrchfan fwyd’ o fri – ac yn wir, bu wrth ei fodd erioed yn ardal odidog y Gororau, ar y ffin rhwng Lloegr a Chymru . Felly pan gafodd gynnig oedd yn amhosib ei wrthod – i goginio yn unig heb ddim gwaith papur - cyflymodd y galon, ac estynnodd yn syth am ei ffedog a’i wisg wen.

Ers ailagor y Walnut Tree yn 2008, aeth bwyty o nerth i nerth, gan ailgipio seren Michelin. Ceir cywirdeb i’r coginio, ond gwneir hynny’n ddi-ffwdan; mae’n fwyd gonest sy’n driw i’r cynhwysion. Mae’r gofod ei hun yn braf a chyfforddus, ac ni cheir arlliw o agwedd ffroenuchel. Mae’r darluniau amryliw gan y diweddar William Brown o gymorth wrth greu naws anffurfiol.

Mae’r fwydlen bersonol yn hunangofiannol; ceir adlais o gyfnodau’r cogydd mewn bwytai amrywiol, ynghyd â’i brif ddiddordeb, teithio rhwngwladol. Diguro, yn wir, yw’r ddêl amser cinio – am ‘dri chwrs’ , ynghyd â thamaid i aros pryd. Ar fy ymweliad mwyaf diweddar mwynheais croquette teisen bysgod a blas perlysiau o’r Dwyrain, gan gynnwys chwa sitrws lemwnwellt. Mae un cegaid o’r bara llaeth enwyn fel toddi mewn gwely o wlân cotwm, gan gynnig addewid mawr ar gyfer y brif wledd.

Un o hoff gyrchfannau’r cogydd yw Kerala yn Ne India, ac fel cwrs cyntaf ceir seigiau synhwyrus o’r rhanbarth hwnnw. Mae’r maelgi tandoori yn bendant werth ei brofi, a’r cyrri Kerala yn nefoedd ar y ddaear. Chwyrnwr coch (red gurnard) yw dewis y cogydd ar gyfer y saig – pysgodyn cadarn, sy’n gweddu i’r cwmin a’r cnau coco i’r dim.Yn brif gwrs rhaid argymell y gwningen mewn crème fraîche mwstard, neu gawl selsig o’r enw choucroute. Saig Ffrengig i dwymo’r galon ar ddiwrnod gaeafol yw hon, sy’n hyfryd iawn gyda gwin gwyn sych o Alsace. Yna i orffen mewn steil ceir rhestr faith o bwdinau, o hen ffefrynnau i gyfuniadau newydd sbon. Ceir meringue lemwn a crème caramel a hefyd Alasga Pob blas menyn cnau mwnci. Ond perffeithrwydd ar blât yw’r parfait banana a siocled, a gyfosodir â sioc drydanol sorbet leim. Ffefryn mawr y dyn ei hun yw’r ‘treiffl’ Somloi o Hwngari, y bu’n ei weini yn Soho ar hyd y saithdegau ym mwyty y Gay Hussar.

Gwibiodd degawd heibio mewn chwinciad ar gyrion y Fenni i Shaun Hill yn y Walnut Tree, ac yn ystod ei gyfnod yno mae wedi cwblhau hanner can mlynedd yn y byd arlwyo. Wrth fyfyrio’n achlysurol wrth fynd â’r ci am dro, mae’n cydnabod mai damwain fu’r cyfan. Doedd e ddim wedi bwriadu gweithio fel cogydd am gyhyd – ond dyna a fu, ac mae Cymru ar ei hennill o’r herwydd. Nid ar chwarae bach y mae goroesi yn y busnes, ond ‘cadw i fynd’ yw’r gyfrinach, medd ef. Er mor agos yw Lloegr i Landdewi Ysgyryd, rhai eg enwau Cymreig sy’n llenwi’i fwyty o ddydd i ddydd - cyfenwau fel Williams, Jones, Evans, Davies a Griffiths... ac mae e’n ddiolchgar am gefnogaeth pob un.

The Walnut Tree Inn, Hen Ffordd Rhosan ar Wy, Llanddewi Ysgyryd, Y Fenni NP7 8AW; tel: 01873 852797

The Three Horseshoes Inn, Groesffordd

There are places in Wales that really blow you away; the Three Horseshoes Inn at Groesffordd is a case in point. Based just outside Brecon, it’s one of those hidden little treasures that – unless you’re hyper-local – you’ve not much hope of stumbling upon yourself. It’s mainly thanks to Taste Blas’ foraging columninst Adele Nozedar (from neighbouring village Llanfrynach), for letting me in on a Welsh food secret too good to keep.

Run by Ashley Haworth for over twenty years, The Three Horseshoes Inn has been given a recent gastronomic makeover, including an eye-opening menu which celebrates Brecon Beacon ingredients foraged metres away from the pub. Indeed, the name of the village says it all - Groesffordd is Welsh for ‘crossroads’, inviting foodies to take the path less travelled. Turn away from local legend, The Felinfach Griffin, on the A470; head instead towards Abergavenny, then to a quiet residential cul-de-sac, with a perspective of Pen y Fan to break your heart.

As you enter the former blacksmith’s shop, make a beeline for a ‘beach hut’ out back. With dining space for eight, you’ll want to stay until late, savouring those last summer rays with your grub. Or head instead for the dining room, where the view will surely whet your appetite. It would be easy to pick a number of classic gastro-pub dishes at the National Pub & Bar Awards’ ‘best pub in Powys for 2018’. But with 2019 National Chef of Wales award-winner Gavin Kellet amongst the team of chefs, I plumped for Brecon Beacon brilliance instead.

The heady feast of flavours was generous, to say the least, so pace yourself if you want to squeeze in a sweet. The evening kicked off with a powerful amuse-bouche of nettle custard with wild garlic puree and onion ash. Decorated with forget-me-nots and jack-by-thehedge, this late spring offering launched a symphony for the senses. It quietened down to a murmur for the mackerel tartar starter, before exploding with a wasabi sorbet kick to the head. What ultimately finished me off was a powerful umami punch of a slow-cooked short rib of Welsh Beef; the mushroom, wild-garlic and marrow infused meat was so rich it fell off the bone in defeat.

I’m not often knocked-out before dessert, but I’ll have to return to devour the rhubarb and gingernut cheesecake. What a rematch to savour, at the crossroads near Pen y Fan, with flavours fit for King Brychan Brycheiniog himself.