Restaurant Reviews
Gwesty Cymru, Aberystwyth
A trip to Aberystwyth is hard to beat, and a stay at Gwesty Cymru is always a treat. Named after Geraint Jarman’s legendary Welsh rock anthem, it was the brainchild of Huw and Beth Roberts. The former seafront B&B was Aber’s first ‘boutique hotel’, but has created waves since 2007 for its highly acclaimed restaurant as well. It claims a central spot by the prom along with a unique seaside terrace, and a killer sunset view of Cardigan Bay. Locals always know that summer has finally arrived by the sounds of laughter and clinking glasses outside. After checking in to my lovely light-filled room, up the striking spiral staircase, I enjoyed a quick run along the promenade, in anticipation of a hearty Ceredigion supper. The hotel-restaurant’s minimalist decor mixes Blaenau Ffestiniog slate with accents from Doctor Who. This is mirrored by a menu filled with endless modern twists on classic Welsh ingredients. It’s a marriage of ideas between inventive Chef Will Ainsworth and inspired co-owner Beth. I kicked off the evening with a first for me – a glass of ‘medd’ from Penrhyncoch’s Shire Meadery. Fearing a cloying honey-filled concoction, I was delighted to find it reminiscent of a light and floral sparkling wine. With asparagus in season, I plumped for the risotto as a starter, that was a creamy dream of a dish. Balanced with the richness of a Birchgrove egg, it created a storm of fresh flavours in my head. The house white wine – a citrussy Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – cut through this glorious savoury pudding like a tidal wave. The main course of roast lamb rump from Tywyn, up the Ceredigion coast, was yet another masterstroke. Presented with a port, thyme and shallot sauce, it was a reminder of Welsh home-cooking at its best. As I admired the purple rays of a ‘Faberystwyth’ sunset I savoured the highlight of the meal; no other word will do to describe the Bara Brith Bread and Butter Pudding, except for ‘bendigedig!’. Drizzled with marmalade custard and Penderyn whisky sauce, it made me envy all who live all year in Aberystwyth. I was lulled to sleep by the sound of waves and woke up ready to face one final epic feast. A perennial on the menu is the breakfast Scotch Egg, filled with sausage, bacon, mushrooms and Birchgrove egg, on a bed of rosti potatoes with Bloody Mary sauce. Miraculously light and moreish, it is another Gwesty Cymru invention – so popular indeed, that you’ll find it on the lunch menu, and for dinner, as a hearty starter! A longheld tradition in Aberystwyth, is to ‘kick the bar’ in the shadow of Constitution Hill. By raising the bar to the rafters however, Gwesty Cymru has long since won the hearts of the Welsh. Lowri Haf Cooke Gwesty Cymru, 19 Marine Terrace, Aberystwyth SY23 2AZ; tel: 01970 612252
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