Autumn 23

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

Autumn 2023

GREEN TO GO

Welsh producers race ahead

WALES ON TOUR Exports are a success story

CRAFT FOOD ARTISAN

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

Delightful small batch gins

THE JOY OF GIVING

Is it too early to buy for Xmas?

WYE DON’T YOU? Take a trip to the borders

The magazine for food artisans!

PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE

VISIT NORTH WALES’ FIRST WHISKY Single MaltINWelsh Whisky DISTILLERY OVER 100 YEARS

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Publisher’s Letter

Giving Back Wales has always had a reputation as a friendly, openminded country, unless you were Roman, or a Norman lord. But that was a while ago. In recent times we’ve gladly welcomed people, and their cultures, from around the world. Whether it be Irish emigres in times of famine, Somalis in our port cities, Italians, often POWs, in the Valleys after WW2, the door has always been open. And it’s heart-warming to see that, in our, too often tragic, own times we are still a haven for those that are suffering – refugees from Ukraine, the Middle East, East Africa have all found a home here.

As Jon Gower alludes in his column, there’s a deep benefit to the exchange of ideas, beliefs and cuisines that comes in the aftermath of such change. And food and drink are prime examples. Our valleys, cities and towns are peppered with Italian, Middle-Eastern and eastern European restaurants and where would we be without Italian Ice Cream parlours? Wales is undoubtedly a richer place as a result.

From an historical and cultural perspective, with some of the world’s most famous politicians, entrepreneurs, writers and thespians, we’ve been giving back to the world for some time. And now we’re giving back in terms of food and drink. For many years, Welsh lamb has been the world standard for premium lamb, but

our success is now much wider. Across the board, exports of Welsh food and drink are on the rise to all corners of the globe. To see just how well we’re doing, read our piece on the subject in this issue. Many of our producers are building on ideas absorbed from other cultures to create produce that’s often even better, thanks in part to the natural abundance of our countryside and the skills of our artisans, such as organic halloumi, cured ham, award winning spirits and much more. And let’s not forget the Culinary Association of Wales, who’ll be bringing the world’s premiere chef conference and competition, Worldchefs Congress, to Wales in 2026 – follow their journey in the current bound issue of Craft Food Artisan.

Perhaps most important of all, Wales is carving a path towards sustainable food and production for others to follow, as demonstrated in the feature on sustainability in this issue. Not only do we benefit economically, socially and environmentally at home but we’re leading the drive to save our planet abroad. That’s something we must support and of which, we should be proud.

Paul Mulligan Publisher

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Contents Features 8

Small is Beautiful Hit the big time with small batch gins

Next stop, the World!

Wales’ food and drink exporters are on a roll

The Gift of Giving Christmas present ideas for those who plan early

Green, green grass of home Welsh Food and Drink continues its drive to sustainability

Start Me Up New producers grab the limelight

Howell’s That?

There’s ambition aplenty at Castell Howell

Valley of Dreams Where better to be in the Autumn than the Wye valley

Keep It Local

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UWTSD’s at the heart of its community

Regulars You Wanna a Pizza Me The bigger the slice, the better for Jon Gower

Only Asses Assume Caroline Sarll’s had enough of sweeping generalisations

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

Restaurant Reviews Truffle - worth its weight in gold?

Recipes Autumn’s here – it’s time for comfort food

Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

Showing Off Myfanwy’s secret, and very easy, tricks to impress

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©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower Culinary connections I’ve spent a lot of time recently researching and writing about American movies, especially ones set in New York. One of the most intriguing things I discovered was the fact that in the earliest werewolf films in America such as The Wolf Man and Frankenstein meets the Wolf Man, the hero, Larry Talbot lives in a place called Llanwelly, which must surely be based on my home town Llanelli. Even more curiously, by the third movie Talbot had moved to live in Cardiff, where I currently reside.

So imagine my delight when my eldest daughter Elena came in one day to announce that there was a totally fab new pizza place serving ginormous NY style pizza slices just around the corner from where we live. And my even greater delight when I not only found out that West Pizza’s slices more than matched American proportions.

The 18 inch pizzas themselves were the size of Manhattan manhole covers and reminded me of some of the places I used to frequent in the East Village years ago, with just the right amount of wood-fired dough turned into crisp charcoal crinkled around the edges.

Indeed, some of the joints in the Big Apple historically used coal-fired ovens to ensure the pizzas were perfectly blackened.

As if that wasn’t enough, it turns out they have Llanellithemed pizzas, with each of the choices on the menu named after a former Scarlets rugby player. My cup of marinara sauce runneth over!

There was the Meri Ann, as featured in the town’s anthemic song “Sosban Fach,”and the Delme, presumably so baptised after Delme Thomas, who captained the team during their famous 1972 victory over the All Blacks at Stradey Park. His famous speech to his players before the game stated that he would willingly trade everything he had achieved with Wales and the Lions for victory that day ‘on our own ground in front of our own people.’ The Delme comes proudly with cheese, tomato, fennel sausage, oregano, garlic & pickled pepper.

There’s even one named after an all-time hero of mine, the Raymond, so monikered after rugby centre Ray Gravell, one of the most passionate Welsh players and, indeed the most passionate Welshman I have ever had the pleasure to know. Comes with lashes of pepperoni.

I think Grav would heartily approve.

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West Pizza is the brainchild of Ieuan Harry and Jez Phillips, originally from the village of Trimsaran and Llanelli respectively. They are two Stradey School pupils who together created Ffwrnes Pizza which utilized a wood-fire pizza maker, taken on the road in a compact three-wheel van baptised “Smokey Pete.” This took them all the way to the Campionato Mondiale della Pizza, the Pizza World Championships in the S4C series Bois y Pizza.

Now you’ll intuit I’m an absolute sucker for this combination of good food and hometown-centric marketing, especially when the pizza joint is nearby rather than the other side of the North Atlantic.

But I began to see a definite theme emerging when we celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary at the Michelin-starred Home by James Sommerin in Penarth. First up among a cavalcade of extraordinary dishes was some homemade bread served with laverbread butter and the utterly delicious bread was made using Felinfoel Double Dragon Beer from, you guessed it, Llanelli.

Now Felinfoel is the very taste of my under-age drinking adventures in the town but it is also historically important, being one of the first beers to be put in a can. As the Llanelli and County Guardian put it in December 1935, seeing the process offering new hope for the tinplate industry: ‘Canned Beer Arrives: Epoch-Making Process at Felinfoel Brewery.’

My good friend, the real ale-loving poet Nigel Jenkins thought Felinfoel to be one of ‘three liquid wonders,’ alongside Buckley’s Best which was as ‘gusty as the blood of Carmarthenshire foxes” and the ‘cosmic urban’ ‘Skull Attack’ that is Brains SA. Of the refreshing trio he reserved his greatest praise in poetic verse for Double Dragon which was made by a very gifted Englishman: brewed at last to transcendent perfection

by Cheesewright y Sais, one of the three most beneficial White Settlers who ever came to this thirsty remnant of the Isle of Britain.

I’ll drink to that.

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Little Bundles

Small batch

When it comes to spirits, gin is undoubtedly having more than a moment in the spotlight. And while you may be familiar with classic London Dry or juniper-forward gins, there’s a hidden gem in the world of craft spirits.

Let us take you on a flavourful journey through the lush landscapes of Wales to discover unique, small batch Welsh gins.

1. Dyfi Distillery - Hibernation Gin

3. Eccentric Gin - Young Tom

Tucked away in the heart of the UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in Dyfi Valley, Dyfi Distillery has been making waves in the world of craft gin. Their Hibernation Gin is a testament to their commitment to local and seasonal ingredients.

Botanical Blend: Dyfi Hibernation Gin boasts a unique blend of botanicals, including wildflowers, juniper, and pine needles harvested from the surrounding landscape. These botanicals give the gin a distinctive earthy and piney flavour profile, reminiscent of the Welsh wilderness.

Eccentric Gin, situated in the heart of Wales, is known for its unconventional and playful approach to ginmaking. One of their standout creations is the Young Tom Gin, a gin that pays homage to the historic Old Tom style.

Botanical Blend: Young Tom Gin features a delightful blend of botanicals, including juniper, coriander, and fresh orange peel. What sets it apart is the touch of honey and malted barley, which gives it a subtle sweetness reminiscent of traditional Old Tom gins.

(£43.95 / 50cl. Visit dyfidistillery.com for details)

(£38 / 70cl. Visit eccentricspirits.com for details)

2. Gŵyr - Rhosili Dry Gin Gŵyr Distillery, located on the picturesque Gower Peninsula, has captured the essence of this beautiful coastal region in their Rhosili Dry Gin. This gin is a celebration of the sea and the land, making it a unique addition to any gin enthusiast’s collection.

Botanical Blend: Rhosili Dry Gin incorporates a coastal blend of botanicals, including sea buckthorn, gorse flower, and linden flowers. The result is a gin with a delightful citrusy zing and floral undertones, reminiscent of a breezy day by the sea. (£39.95 / 70cl. Visit the-gower-gin-company. myshopify.com for details)

4. Hensol Castle Black Gin Nestled in the picturesque grounds of Hensol Castle in the Vale of Glamorgan, Hensol Castle Distillery has created a gin that pays homage to its historic surroundings. Hensol Castle Black Gin is a testament to their commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

Botanical Blend: Hensol Castle Black Gin boasts a unique blend of botanicals, including locally sourced juniper, angelica root, and a hint of blackcurrant.

These botanicals come together to create a gin with a captivating dark hue and a flavour profile that balances juniper with subtle berry undertones. (£30 / 70cl. Visit hensolcastledistillery.com for details)

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of Joy

Welsh gins 5. Snowdonia Spirit Co. Welsh Dry Gin

8. In The Welsh Wind - Limited Edition Palo Cortado Cask Aged Gin

Nestled in the shadows of the majestic Snowdonia mountains, Snowdonia Spirit Co. takes inspiration from the rugged beauty of its surroundings to craft their Welsh Dry Gin. This gin is a true reflection of the untamed spirit of Wales.

Botanical Blend: Snowdonia Spirit Co.’s Welsh Dry Gin features a carefully selected blend of botanicals, including juniper, heather, and lemon verbena. The result is a gin with a crisp and clean profile, evoking the freshness of mountain air.

In The Welsh Wind Distillery, known for its innovative and imaginative approach to gin-making, has once again pushed the boundaries with their Limited Edition Palo Cortado Cask Aged Gin. This gin is a true testament to the artistry of aging gin in exceptional casks, resulting in a unique and complex flavour profile.

Botanical Blend: In The Welsh Wind’s Limited Edition Palo Cortado Cask Aged Gin begins with a meticulously crafted blend of traditional gin botanicals, including juniper, coriander, and citrus peel. What sets this gin apart is its aging process. It spends a significant amount of time in Palo Cortado sherry casks, where it absorbs the rich, nutty, and slightly sweet characteristics of the sherry.

(£36 / 70cl. Visit snowdoniagin.com for details)

6. Aber Falls Small Batch Welsh Dry Gin

(£45 / 70cl. Visit inthewelshwind.co.uk for details)

Aber Falls Distillery, located in the breath-taking North Wales region, has gained a reputation for producing exceptional gins that capture the essence of their surroundings. Their Small Batch Welsh Dry Gin is a testament to their commitment to quality and innovation.

Botanical Blend: Aber Falls Small Batch Welsh Dry Gin features a balanced blend of botanicals, including juniper, angelica root, and coriander seeds. The result is a classic dry gin with a crisp and juniper-forward flavour profile, perfect for classic gin cocktails. (£26 / 70cl. Visit aberfallsdistillery.com for details)

7. Penderyn’s Brecon Botanicals Gin Penderyn Distillery, nestled in the Brecon Beacons National Park, is renowned for its Welsh whisky, but they’ve also delved into the world of gin with their Brecon Botanicals Gin. This gin showcases their expertise in crafting spirits of exceptional quality.

Botanical Blend: Brecon Botanicals Gin features a well-balanced blend of botanicals, including juniper, lemon peel, and orange peel, with a touch of cinnamon and coriander. The result is a gin with a citrusy and subtly spicy character that’s perfect for both sipping and mixing. (£22 / 70cl. Visit penderyn.wales for details)

Conclusion The world of Welsh gin is a vibrant tapestry of flavours, each distillery offering a unique and distinctive taste of Wales. From Hensol Castle’s Black Gin with its intriguing blackcurrant notes to Snowdonia Spirit Co.’s Welsh Dry Gin, capturing the essence of the mountains, and Aber Falls’ Small Batch Welsh Dry Gin delivering a classic dry gin experience, there’s a gin for every palate.

And don’t forget Penderyn’s Brecon Botanicals Gin, which marries citrus and spice to create a versatile and delightful spirit. These gins are a testament to the creativity and craftsmanship of Welsh distilleries, and they’re waiting to be discovered and enjoyed by gin enthusiasts and novices alike. So, raise a glass and toast to the diverse and flavourful world of small batch Welsh gins. Iechyd da!

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Wales at the Top Table AS Wales continues to meet the challenges following the twin storms of Brexit and Covid, the fact our food and drink exports are netting a bigger percentage increase than the whole of the UK proves a thriving economy will overcome significant hurdles.

And just as the Wales rugby squad confounded the doom-mongers with a record to be proud of in their Rugby World Cup campaign, the Wales food and drink industry continues to go from strength to strength.

A key catalyst for success has been the Welsh Government’s current Export Action Plan. Launched in 2020 as part of its economic strategy, it categorises food and drink as a priority sector. The plan also links in with wider Welsh Government initiatives, such as its International Strategy for Wales, and the Strategic Vision for the Food and Drink Industry.

From 2016 up to the launch of the Export Action Plan, the value of Welsh food and drink exports grew by £116m. Following the launch, between 2020-2022, exports continued to grow, by £245m, a rise of 44.4 percent compared with 16.1 percent for the UK overall.

The three most important export categories in 2022 were Meat and Meat Products (£265m – up 42 percent from 2021), Cereal and Cereal Preparations (£160m – a 16 percent rise), and Dairy Products and Birds Eggs (£138m – a 30 percent increase). Beverages had the second highest percentage increase (40 percent), rising from £31m to £43m, while Oils and Fats had the largest percentage decrease year-on-year, falling by 38 percent from £8m to £5m.

Meat and Meat Preparations make up a substantial 33 percent of the food and drink export value, followed by Cereal and Cereal Preparations with a 20 percent share of all food and drink exports. The value of the sector’s exports to the EU reached £594m, a £130m increase from 2021, while the industry’s exports to non-EU countries were worth £203m in 2022, a large growth from £176m in 2021.

France – a nation famed for gastronomy which for generations drew envious glances from Welsh food and drink producers – is now the highest value destination for Welsh food and drink exports at £150m. Other top

destinations include the Republic of Ireland (£145m), Belgium (£78m), Netherlands (£52m), and Germany (£51m).

Eight of the top ten Welsh food and drink export destinations were within the EU, with the two non-EU countries being the USA (8th) and Saudi Arabia (9th).

A massive 75 percent of exports were with countries within the EU, with the second and third highest value regions being the Middle East and North Africa (9 percent, £70 million), and Asia and Oceania (6 percent, £47 million) respectively.

Exports to France increased by £50.5m from 2021, and £77m from 2016. These two figures are both the largest in the EU for their respective time periods. Meat and Meat Preparations was the highest value category at £106.2m (71 percent of food and drink exports to France). UK food and drink exports to France were worth £2.75bn in 2022. Meanwhile exports to Ireland have rocketed by £56.4m since 2016 to £145m in 2022, the second largest in the EU for the time period.

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One way Wales is ensuring that food and drink producers across the nation are in the right shape to compete internationally is through the Strategic Innovation Scheme which provides comprehensive business support services. As part of this, Project HELIX, a pan-Wales strategic initiative delivered

by Food Innovation Wales offering technical and commercial support, will continue until March 2025.

Since its launch in 2016, Project HELIX has had a hugely positive effect on Wales’s food and drink industry by helping companies to innovate, adopt process efficiencies, and achieve internationally recognised accreditations. One of the recipients has been Caerphilly-based Just Love Food Company.

Work with the project allowed for a partly funded New Product Development affiliate to assist with ingredient risk assessments. The company manufactures allergyfriendly celebration cakes, with Chief Executive Mike Woods saying: “Our turnover has grown by over 65 percent.”

Welsh Government support also helped Bridgendbased Ferrari’s Coffee secure a significant deal to supply three of its products to a major retailer across the Atlantic. Ferrari’s clinched their deal at SIAL Paris, one of the world’s largest food innovation exhibitions, which they attended as part of the Welsh Government showcase.

This illustrates another way in which Food and Drink Wales have helped Welsh producers drive exports through organising Welsh showcases at international events, such as Gulfood in Dubai, and trade visits.

Recently, Welsh food and drink companies made a flavoursome impression at Anuga 2023 – the world’s leading trade fair for food and drink – showcasing products with the aim of securing new export deals, whilst others crossed the North Sea as part of the Welsh Government’s Food and Drink Wales Trade Development visit to Norway and Denmark to explore Nordic options.

Meanwhile, the Welsh meat industry has emerged in more robust health post-pandemic. Hybu Cig Cymru – Meat Promotion Wales (HCC) reports growth within sheep meat exports, demonstrating an international demand for PGI Welsh Lamb.

For the first six months of this year, UK sheep meat exports increased by 14 percent compared with last year in volume terms, with produce from Wales accounting for a significant proportion. During the same six-month period, the volume of lamb exported from Wales increased by around 16 percent.

According to HCC, beef exports are more stable when compared to long term averages, plus there is more demand from UK consumers for high-quality and home-produced beef, with imports currently lower than pre-Covid levels.

HCC recently reached the end of its five-year Red Meat Development Programme (RMDP) which aimed to equip the Welsh meat-producing sector with the relevant information to thrive post-Brexit.

Funded through the Welsh Government and EU Rural Development Programme, the RMDP focused on proactive animal health planning (the Stoc+ project) and utilising DNA technology (Hill Ram Scheme) while examining the consumer experience and eating quality of Welsh Lamb (Welsh Lamb Meat Eating Quality).

South Caernarfon Creameries (SCC) currently exports its Dragon brand to 12 countries, having launched in the USA in May of this year after linking up with Abbey Specialty Foods – who have over 25 years’ experience of working with UK producers – at the Summer Fancy Food Show in New York. SCC have also gained new customers in Lithuania and Qatar in the last 12 months.

“The products have received great feedback from customers in the USA,” said a spokesperson. “Brexit has created numerous challenges, but we are embracing these and see new export markets as a key growth area for us.”

Penderyn Distillery now exports to over fifty countries, including key markets in France, Germany, US and China. In 2021 exports were 13.6 percent of turnover, and in 2022 17.5 percent of Penderyn’s turnover was generated by exports. The Scotch whisky industry exports around 80 percent of its whisky, so there are great opportunities for Penderyn to expand overseas markets.

“When we started, we were a ‘novelty,’ but when the renowned whisky expert, Dr Jim Swan, became our Master Distiller, the world took notice,” explains Penderyn spokesperson Jon Tregenna.

“We were also a pioneer in World Whiskies and when we travel the world, we claim we’re from the ‘secret Celtic nation!’”

But now the secret is out: Welsh producers have earned their right to sit at the top table as far as the food and drink industry is concerned.

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Better to give..

Are you the sort of person who gives exquisite jewellery or tickets to Bali to one or two well-chosen loved ones, or are you handing out tins of Petticoat Tails to half the parish? Christmas gift giving can get pretty fraught if you get it, but it is also a great exercise in empathy, if you give them what they want, what they really really want.

There is a wealth of top-notch Welsh food and drink out there that may hit the mark this Christmas. Myfanwy Alexander helps us with some top Welsh foodie ideas for Christmas gifting.

Smile and Say: Cheese

The Brownie promise

I am lucky enough to have a friend who often sends me boxes of cheese from The Welsh Cheese Company and I when I heard they do subscriptions, I immediately launched a barrage of hints and links to all my friends and family. What fun it would be to have a box of cheese arrive every month! There are a range of Clwb Caws subscriptions: their Connoisseur’s Collection, which includes a bottle of the splendid Mongomery Vineyard Rondo to accompany the rind washed Golden Cenarth. The eco-packaging also hits the right note with me: the cheeses are kept in perfect condition by the cunning use of Welsh wool.

One of the challenges of gifting to foodies at Christmas is the fact that this is the time of year when they themselves will have filled their homes with deliciousness and that is why a subscription will be so well-received. Having recently tried for the first time to make brownies, I have a new-found respect for anyone who can manage to bake them right: between mush and burnt to re-inforced concrete slab, the time interval seems to be seconds. Gower Cottage Brownies have absolutely nailed it: there is no taste more nostalgically redolent of Christmas than their Chocolate Orange Brownies and you can have a pack sent monthly to your most deserving friends.

A Festive Table

Crackers - not just for pulling If you want to support the producer more directly, Caws Teifi have vouchers as well as a good range of gift boxes and they feature Da Mhile spirits as well as Cradocs Biscuits. Speaking of which, Cradocs have two selection packs, their Premium Cheese Board Crackers which would be perfect for your caseophilic friends, including the exotic Lemongrass, Coconut and Chili and the Vegetable Snacking Crackers which are ideal for those families for whom the seasonal snackage is the true meaning of Christmas. The Earl Grey and Pear are my own favourites, though you need to take care pairing them with more pungent cheeses as the delicacy can be overwhelmed.

I’m always conscious that, after the glories of Christmas (we have a vast embroidered tablecloth which was a present from a generous cousin who clearly does not do his own ironing), the dressing of the post Big Day table should be cheery and, preferably, a bit stylish too. Of course, people flock to our house on Boxing Day mainly to see how much ham a svelte young lady can eat in an hour, but I’ve put some Melin Tregwynt goodies on my letter to Santa to keep that seasonal buzz going. There are lots of stylish options, all as Welsh as can be and I would love to win a trolley dash in their Pembrokeshire shop but in case Santa should be reading this, Knot Garden in Jemima, a good strong red which would wave a pitchfork at a French invader any day of the week, would be my pick, for placemats and coasters.

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Giving, not taking, the biscuit

Fake it till you Bake it!

There is something deliciously retro about giving people biscuits at Christmas. I used to give friends with small children what we called stained glass window biscuits for Christmas until I realized that in houses with central heating, the colourful melted glass centres would melt, and it was carpets as well as glass which ended up stained. If you want to foster tradition but avoid cliche, Aberffraw Biscuits are our national response to the tartan ubiquity of shortbread.

Britain’s oldest biscuit (fight me on this one) has bara brith, lemon, chocolate chip and ginger varieties these days, as well as the buttery classic version. If you think dunking is vulgar, look away now, but a ginger Abberffraw goes particularly well with a strong cup of Lapsang Souchong from Morgan’s Brew.

Another route into the hamper territory is to buy ingredients and equipment to get your friends cooking.

For baking tins, Peppercorn in Llandeilo have both a good range and expert advice; I bought a perforated 1lb loaf tin from them which makes the crustiest crust ever. Trust Your Gut in Usk will supply a sour dough starter or even a culture to get them making their own Kombucha to guarantee healthy tums for 2024.

The Spirit(s) of Christmas Da Mhile Distillery have some experiences on offer, such as a voucher for a Gin and Rum tasting and talk, but for those for whom a trip to Llandysul might not be convenient, it would be rather fun to create cocktail packs for your friends featuring their spirits. Pair up their Apple Brandy with their Organic Gin (don’t go for the Seaweed or the Oak Aged here as the additional flavours would be distracting) with Celtic Country Wines’ Apricot Brandy and you have all you need for an Angel Face - guaranteed to provide glad tidings of great joy. Alternatively, if you want something a little less likely to have people fusing their fairy lights, there’s Celteg’s Christmas Dessert Wine. The perfect companion to mince pies or Christmas pud, it always reminds of the very best boiled fruit sweets. But, easier to get tipsy on.

Hamper not Basket Case I’ve been doing hampers of Welsh produce as gifts for a few years now, partly as a way to get over the fact that I recall in mid-December that my Christmas Pudding Vodka should have been maturing since September at the latest. So if you are pushed for time, there are some cracking pre-selected hampers about, with Castle Howell providing a wide range, featuring famous names and less well known treasures. Alternatively, you could ask your local deli to ‘hamper up’ a choice of provinder: Llwy a Mwy in Penegoes would be happy to oblige, as would Marches Deli in Monmouth or the iconic Wally’s from Cardiff ’s Royal Arcade.

The cup that cheers A correctly chosen gift can be, if not quite lifechanging, certainly life-enhancing. No pressure!

Having been given a selection of coffee varieties a few years ago, I have now become almost obsessional, turning my back on instant for ritual drinking of the good stuff. You could put a loved one on the path to beverage obsessionality by getting them a Poblado Coffi subscription or maybe get them a coffee maker and a couple of different splendidly named varieties from Welsh Coffee Co: I’d go for Bendigedig myself.

And you don’t have to go to Japan for a tea ceremony: give a teapot or mug and infuser to a friend in need of some quality time and add half a dozen Morgan’s Brew teas. They also supply reusable self-fill filters for the convenience of tea bags without the constraining lack of variety. Make sure you include the light and delicious Green Man, some First Flush Darjeeling and their TGFOP Assam, if only to allow you to express astonishment if anyone doesn’t know it stands for Tippy Golden Orange Pekoe.

Stocking fillers Last but not least, the stockings. In our household, the main presents, whilst not being actually despised, are not as valued as the stockings. As years have passed, though some items such as sugar mice and oranges remain, changing tastes mean that I am now shopping to fill the stockings of young ladies, and young foodies at that. Aber Falls miniatures come in four signature flavours: the fight broke out here over the Salted Toffee Liqueur, but my favourite is the Orange Marmalade Gin. (Top-tip: Make a grown-up mince pie by soaking mincemeat in marmalade gin, adding pecans and cubes of marzipan and serving in a blind baked pastry case.)

There are quite a few gym bunnies amongst my tribe and they are always keeping an eye on their protein levels: slipping a couple of packets of Trailhead’s Get Jerky in amongst the booze and confectionery always gets them a much-needed beefy boost. Those cute little pots of Halen Mon fit in easily and generate great feedback, especially when its one of the flavoured salts, like Chili and Garlic. And peeping out at the top of the stocking these days, there is always one of the gloriously packaged Coco Pzazz chocolate bars with iconic Welsh scenes guaranteed to raise a bit of hiraeth, from California to Tashkent. Nadolig Llawen.

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Welsh producers in the fast lane of Government’s sustainability drive New social awareness paves surefire path to success

By Mike Lewis

“IT was never – and still isn’t – about money.”

Richard Jones, co-owner of an award-winning Carmarthenshire bee farm, is busy explaining the sustainability ethos behind a thriving rural business that produces five tonnes of raw Welsh carbon neutral honey per year from different parts of the country – all from a disused coal mine in Llangennech.

Having taken up beekeeping in 2004, Richard developed Fferm Cilgwenyn Bee Farm with fellow beekeeper Rhodri Owen driven by ‘a steadfast belief in helping the environment and providing the public with honest and unadulterated high-quality Welsh honey from beekeepers.’

Today they are among a growing number of Welsh producers reaping the rewards of embracing ethical and sustainability values to combat climate change and ensure there are enough social and economic resources for everyone.

And never before has there been a greater incentive for food and drink retailers and manufacturers to demonstrate such an approach to the supply chain, while fears over climate change and global warning mean suppliers and consumers who adopt this new social awareness will be the ones most likely to profit in the long term.

Meeting the challenges of the Climate Emergency Lesley Griffiths MS, Minister for Rural Affairs, North Wales, and Trefnydd

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Although dwarfed by foreign competitors, environmentally rich Wales, with its abundant rainfall, fertile farmland and long coastline, has been quick out of the blocks in the race to seize the zeitgeist. The

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Senedd, it must be remembered, was among the first world parliaments to declare a climate emergency and the subsequent Well-being of Future Generations Act (2015) served a significant notice of intent.

Despite a population of little more than three million, the Welsh food and drink industry packs a hefty punch, with businesses generating a turnover of £8.1bn within the Food Foundation Sector in 2022. In recent years the Welsh Government have forged close links with the industry and academia, with the main aim being to emphasise the message of local provenance and sustainability.

Their goal is ‘to build a strong and vibrant Welsh food and drink industry with sustainable supply chains that have a global reputation for excellence and having one of the most environmentally and socially responsible supply chains in the world’.

One of the ways the Welsh Government is supporting the industry is helping build a skilled workforce able to meet the challenges of the future.

The ‘Food and Drink Skills Wales’ programme helps Welsh food and drink companies access training and skills development for their staff, driving up productivity, improving bottom line financial return as well as promoting best practices.

The programme works closely with businesses of all sizes within Wales to identify skills shortages and opportunities to upskill their workforce. It will also prepare employees across Wales to adapt to changes and opportunities in food manufacturing including technical, business and environmental challenges. It will also contribute to the delivery of Net Zero targets through integrating sustainability information and knowledge.

part of the centres’ services, they can help businesses to become more productive and sustainable by minimising their process waste.

Welsh food and drink companies can gain the knowledge and skills necessary to develop systems and actions that address environmental management, sustainability and social impact through Sustainability Training courses. The courses will be held in 2024: January 10, 17, 24, 31, and February 7.

They are part of a network of 25 similar centres located across the UK who are working to fight food waste and hunger. In Wales, around 400,000 tonnes of food is wasted each year. If only 1% of that is edible it is enough to contribute to over 9 million meals.

Decarbonisation Workshops are also available.

Delivered online and fully funded, the workshops provide food and drink manufacturing and processing businesses with the right skills to make decisions to move towards net zero for the sector.

AMRC Cymru, part of the University of Sheffield Advanced Manufacturing Research Centre and the UK Government’s High Value Manufacturing Catapult, have a state-of-the-art site in Broughton, north Wales.

Their purpose is to support businesses to improve their performance by transforming the products they sell, the way they make them, and the skills of their workforce.

The centre, funded with £20m from the Welsh Government and managed by the University of Sheffield, focuses on advanced manufacturing sectors including aerospace, automotive, nuclear and food in the key research areas of future propulsion, sustainability and digital manufacturing. It is predicted the new facility could increase GVA to the Welsh economy by as much as £4 billion over the next 20 years.

In addition Project HELIX delivers practical knowledge transfer activities, supporting Welsh food and drink companies to develop and reformulate innovative products from concept, design, development and manufacture, through to the consumer’s shopping basket.

Project HELIX is delivered by three food centres based across Wales, namely Food Technology Centre (north Wales), Food Centre Wales (mid and west Wales) and ZERO2FIVE (south Wales) and works closely with food and drink companies to help them grow, innovate, compete and reach new markets. As

When it comes to reducing food waste, FareShare Cymru was established in 2010 and began delivering food in July 2011. By using quality, in date surplus food which would otherwise have gone to waste, they help turn an environmental problem into a social solution.

With their reach expanding further across Wales in recent years, the impact of their work is clear for all to see. In 2021 – 22 alone, FareShare Cymru redistributed just under 1,500 tonnes of food to over 200 Welsh charities and community groups. This provided 3.5 million healthy and balanced meals to vulnerable people and saved 2,650 tonnes of CO₂ from being emitted through waste.

High in the hills of mid-Wales the fifth generation of the Watkins family have been sharing their pure spring water with the rest of the world for the past three decades.

The Radnor Hills company is a zero-to-landfill site having sent zero waste to landfill since 2018. They have invested in an entire recycling facility on-site to manage waste to ensure absolutely nothing goes to landfill. Operating as zero to landfill means they’re supporting a circular economy, sending any waste, including our plastic, back to the source to be reused and recycled. Radnor Hills has also invested £1.8 million in solar panels to help power its operations.

The Welsh wine industry is following suit. Four vineyards - Ancre Hill Estates, Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard, Gwinllan Hebron Vineyard and Sticle Vineyard - have recently joined in a collaborative project to look at ways of delivering innovative solutions to decarbonisation and improving efficiency through reducing the use of synthetic chemicals. Supported by the Welsh Government’s Decarbonisation and Covid Challenge Fund, the project’s objective is to increase knowledge and understanding of disease control and prevention methods in vineyards across Wales. Its outputs will help to reduce future use of, and reliance on, synthetic chemicals.

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Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd Lesley Griffiths said: “It’s great to see producers and organisations coming together to find sustainable solutions to the challenges faced by the industry and wider society.

“From our food centres through to the volunteers working with organisations such as FareShare Cymru, there is such a lot of good work currently taking place.”

However, the industry cannot rest on its laurels.

Looking ahead to the future the Minister added, “We know there is plenty of work that still needs to be done and the Welsh Government will remain steadfast in its commitment to support the Welsh food and drink supply chain to become one of the most sustainable in the world.”

Cluster Groups Working closely with the food and drink producers, Food and Drink Wales, part of Welsh Government, have established a number of Cluster Groups to maximise collaboration across the sector. The clusters bring together like-minded people, with the key objective of helping businesses achieve accelerated growth in sales, profit and employment.

One of these is the Sustainability Cluster, which supports and develops sustainable practices across Wales’ agri-food industry. This is delivered by utilising the successful triple helix approach with government, industry and academia working hand in hand to tackle common industry problems.

The cluster is the central hub, providing intelligence to businesses, becoming the eyes and ears of the industry, developing networks and industry expertise to help Wales become a world leader in sustainability.

Already boasting over a hundred members from across the industry, along with government bodies and 30 academic organisations, one of the ways it has been helping develop sustainable practices is supporting food and drink businesses achieve B Corp status.

B Corp Certification is a verified standard for purposedriven, for-profit businesses to demonstrate their positive impacts on people and the planet. Drop Bear Beer Co became the first Welsh brewer to achieve this status. They followed this up by becoming the world’s first certified carbon neutral alcohol-free brewer in 2022, bolstering the business’ commitment to combatting climate change.

Founded in 2019 by Joelle Drummond and Sarah McNena, Drop Bear Beer is traditionally brewed with only the highest quality ingredients.

Following their mantra of ‘Dropping the alcohol, perfecting the craft’, the pair have swiftly established Drop Bear as a leading player in the industry, having won Great Taste Awards, the World Beer Awards and the European Beer Challenge, and made good

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use of the support offered by Food and Drink Wales’ Sustainability Cluster.

“The Cluster has been very useful,” says Joelle. “It has put us in touch with like-minded producers, and we have been able to access the wealth of expertise it contains. We are now confident that we can continue to grow our business in a way that focuses on sustainability.”

The ‘Welsh Way’ of farming Although Wales’s highest value export categories are meat and meat products, we can do more to celebrate our meat, heritage and culture by purchasing quality produce from Welsh farms. Favourites such as lamb, beef, pork, chicken and game can also boost our nutrition whilst also supporting Welsh producers.

Hybu Cig Cymru – Meat Promotion Wales have a vision to make sheep and cattle farming in Wales a global exemplar of how to produce quality food, sustainably and efficiently. They call this ‘The Welsh Way’. With Welsh farmland well suited for raising livestock, they hope to create an industry that produces high-quality protein on marginal land as sustainably as possible.

Pembrokeshire Lamb, a family-run business near Haverfordwest, are among those who believe in fostering traditional, sustainable values handed down through generations. “By growing our own crops as feed and using our natural resources we give our animals the essential nourishment needed to ensure our product is fresh and sustainably farmed with ethical practices in mind,” says co-owner Steve Lewis, who runs the business with wife Kara.

And Pembrokeshire Lamb are far from alone.

Halen Môn have been awarded B Corp status after demonstrating the highest social and environmental standards. The certification means the north Wales business, who create a range of naturally filtered, award-winning sea salt related products, will join the growing ranks of companies in Wales already awarded the coveted accreditation.

Founded in 1997 by Alison and David Lea-Wilson, Halen Môn remain family-owned and have succeeded in developing and maintaining a sustainable, successful business which employs local people, underpinned with environmental and educational principles whilst also attracting tourists to a rural, coastal area of Wales.

Halen Môn are committed to driving the business forward towards a more sustainable future as they move closer to their objective of zero to landfill every year by applying the principles of ‘Reduce, Re-use and Recycle’ to all waste and co-products.

Purple Moose Brewery took part in the Welsh Government Sustainability and Decarbonisation workshops and feasibility study. Based in the harbour town of Porthmadog in north Wales, Purple Moose

Brewery produce a whole range of different beers in cask and bottle and keg. They began their journey into sustainability and decarbonisation during the Covid pandemic when they had some time to take a step back and look at the bigger picture in order to view sustainability as one of the key elements where they wanted to take their business forward.

The Welsh Saucery are Pembrokeshire-based producers of sauces and spice mixes, all made using wholesome ingredients and natural preservatives. The company is owned by Steve and Kara Lewis who also run Pembrokeshire Lamb. Steve comments: “We are committed to sustainable ways of doing business which is why we are conscious to ensure everything we do is both environmentally and ethically correct.”

Two years ago, Pembrokeshire-based veg growers Puffin Produce claimed a UK first with the launch of carbon neutral potatoes.

The supplier, who owns the Blas Y Tir veg brand, now sell their Root Zero potatoes in hundreds of UK supermarkets.

The potatoes are grown in Pembrokeshire and certified carbon neutral through a combination of carbon offsetting and the use of ‘sustainable farming practices to remove carbon dioxide, create healthy soil and increase local biodiversity’.

The business has measured every contribution to the potatoes’ carbon footprint, from the power used on the farm to the transport used to take Root Zero potatoes to supermarkets, down to the energy used by customers to cook their potatoes at home.

“The food system contributes up to 30% of global greenhouse gas emissions,” said Puffin Produce CEO Huw Thomas. “We have to act now – so we’re on a mission to become carbon neutral and farm in a way that protects and regenerates our land, plants and wildlife.”

As far as buyers – retail and hospitality as well as distributors – are concerned, being sustainable not only reduces the impact on the environment, but also helps to improve customer experience, support the local economy, and stand out from competitors.

Sustainable food production uses processes and systems that are non-polluting, conserves nonrenewable energy and natural resources, are economically efficient, safe for workers, communities and consumers, and – perhaps most importantly – do not compromise the needs of future generations.

The international reputation of food and drink from Wales is certainly on the rise. Research – such as through the Value of Welshness report - has consistently shown that, for consumers, the word ‘Welsh’ denotes high standards of quality, ethics, and artisanship.

Recent figures show that the industry’s exports increased by £157m between 2021 and 2022 - a 24.5

per cent rise; significantly larger than UK exports as a whole, which grew by 21.6 per cent.

The growing international reputation of food and drink from Wales is something touched upon by producers. “Success at Rhug is down to the strength of the Wales brand, and I just hope that the quality of Welsh products will be nurtured and protected, because people buy quality.” That’s the view of Robert Wynn, Lord Newborough, who farms the 12,500-acre Rhug Estate in North Wales.

“From selling our produce in vans outside the front gate to developing our wholesale business through topend London restaurants, we have grown by not taking no for an answer,” says Lord Newborough. “Welsh Government support has helped with marketing and proved an invaluable resource to date. The International Trade Development Programme enables us to reach out to customers at shows and trade events, and to explore new markets.”

And, finally, how can YOU, the consumer, help to save time, money and the planet? Firstly, eating sustainably is one of the most cost-effective ways to reduce your carbon footprint. Buying local, seasonal produce will improve health, support the local community and possibly save money. Fine-tuning our diets by reducing food waste, buying more local, seasonal produce, eating whole grains and more fruit and vegetables, will have a considerable overall impact on the food system.

Try eating the whole vegetable, focus on seasonal, local produce, eat better quality meat as part of a balanced diet and produce no waste – in other words, learn to love your leftovers!

There are increasing signs that the message is getting across. A survey from Deloitte in the 12 months to March 2021, found that no fewer than 49 per cent of consumers have bought more seasonal produce, while 34 per cent have chosen brands that boast environmentally sustainable practices. Moreover, 28 per cent of consumers claim to have stopped purchasing certain brands or products because they had ethical or sustainability-related concerns about them.

Rhug Estate

Research commissioned by the Welsh Government over the summer has found that 19 per cent of the Welsh population would regard themselves as ‘ethical eaters’, which is slightly higher than the UK as a whole.

Based on YouGov data, for ‘ethical eaters’, issues such as those around sustainability are very likely to influence their shopping habits, and they align themselves with companies that share their values.

No one can do everything to fight climate change, but everyone can do something.

See https://food-drink.wales/ for more information on how to make more sustainable food choices and also download a toolkit offering useful advice and recipes.

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This is Food and Drink.

This is Wales.

Harvested from our abundant land and sea by people who love what they do. Why not make this autumn awesome with delicious, honest food and drink from Wales?

Discover a world of possibilities with Welsh food and drink: gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

f FoodDrinkWales T @FoodDrinkWales

Food_Drink_Wales

l Bwyd a Diod Cymru | Food and Drink Wa

ales

Stars Shine at Showcase The time is fast approaching for the decadence of Welsh food and drink to assemble once more at the Blas Cymru event – the industry-wide showcase held at the International Convention Centre Wales in Newport on October 25-26th. In a chorus of flavours showcasing the best produce Wales has to offer, there are 3 central themes for Blas Cymru this year, which are innovation, resilience and optimism.

Fourteen worthy producers have been placed in a group of ‘Rising Stars’ from the Welsh food and drink industry. They have been given the opportunity, through Cywain, to put their products in the limelight at Wales’ premier food and drink event.

From innovative flavours and ways of working to the resilience of battling through a pandemic, the optimism the 14 producers must feel for their future within the Welsh Food and Drink industry should no doubt be limitless!

Now, let’s dig in and see what each of them have to offer…

Grounds For Good

Cardi Bay Bangers @cardibaycymru || dewijamesbutchers.co.uk/sausages Following a vibrant debut on the Cywain stand at the Royal Welsh Show’s Food Hall this summer, Cardi Bay Bangers are going from strength to strength in promoting their quality sausages from Ceredigion. A new venture of Dewi James Butchers, Ceredigion, the wealth of knowledge and skills, alongside a passion for new flavours as well as traditional, make these sausages a cut above the rest. Combining the perfect herbs and spices, paired with high quality meat with a low-fat ratio, makes for the perfect sausage.

@groundsforgood || groundsforgood.co.uk Good 4 You, Good 4 Our Planet and Good 4 Our Community is the 3-pronged approach of Cardiff based company Grounds For Good, which creates luxury products made exclusively from repurposed coffee grounds.

Founded in the lockdown of 2020, Dr Rosie Oretti decided on a new venture, with her main aim being to change what we consider to be waste. Grounds For Good’s ethos is simple – using coffee for a greater good. Drawing upon her years of experience, Rosie has harnessed ‘three angles of good’ to form GFG and has curated a gorgeous collection of personal care and lifestyle products, all of which embrace the beneficial powers of reused coffee grounds and their powerhouse extracts. Most GFG products also provide a donation towards a dedicated homeless charity with every purchase.

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Peachie @feelingpeachieuk Recognising the need for bespoke products for peri or menopausal people was priority for Peachie, tackling the taboo head-on to deliver a nutritionally dense product aimed to support the symptoms of menopause.

The menopause affects around 51% of the population, with around 13 million people who are currently peri or menopausal in the UK. (NHS England, 2023) With this in mind, the team at Peachie combined their love of good food alongside expert knowledge on nutrition and created a menopause nutrient boosting breakfast topping. This tailored approach provides nutrition for the menopause, with the aim of making everyone feel more “Peachie”!

Bragdy Cybi Ltd

Still Wild Drinks

@bragdy_cybi || www.bragdycybi.cymru

@stillwilddrinks || stillwilddrinks.com

Starting a new venture during the pandemic was a challenge, but that didn’t deter husband and wife, Dan and Bethan Jones from starting on a new venture to open a micro-brewery in March 2020. Since then, they have upscaled and moved to larger premises, and now occupy two units at the park based in Holyhead, Anglesey.

Situated in the UK’s only coastal national park in Pembrokeshire, Still Wild Drinks distillery harnesses and captures the wild flavours of their surrounding landscape to create a distinctive and well-balanced drink.

Seasonal batches and experimenting with new flavours are a challenge that Dan and Bethan set themselves consistently, and thanks to their Taproom which was installed in 2021, visitors can now revel in their creations daily. Future plans include additional fermentation tanks, a small food kitchen and supporting local events with their mobile bar offering.

Replacing the cheap and imported spices, the botanicals found in hedgerows and coastlines are picked by hand, creating a unique tasting British Vermouth. From Seaweeds from clean coastal waters, fragrant Sea Wormwood from the inland Cleddau Estuary or bright heather from the Preseli Mountains, the drink is inspired by the delicious wild flavours and ‘terroir’ of its surroundings. Innovation is key in this process, as the team use a scientific approach to get the most out of the botanicals and truly capture their flavour.

Barry Island Spirits Ltd @barryislandspiritscohq || www.barryislandspirits.co Created by Tim and Claire after walking their dog Darcy along their beautiful coastline, the Barry Island Spirits Range are made by blending the finest botanicals with the purest Welsh water gravitated from the Brecon Beacons.

Currently distributing Barry Island Gin, Rum and Vodka all over the UK, Tim and Claire have gained significant success and recognition for their creations.

Selected as Gin of the Month at Heston Blumenthal’s Michelin Star restaurant, the Hinds Head, in December 2020, their Barry Island Gin has been gaining popularity since its conception, winning many other awards since then, such as the 2021 Great Taste Awards where it was described by judges as “A beautifully balanced gin” where “Love has gone into the making of ” (it).

Distill and Fill

Mortal Bunny Rum

@distillandfill || www.distillandfill.co.uk

@mortal_bunny_rum || bunnyspirits.co.uk

Distill and Fill was founded in 2021 to quench a thirst for delicious drinks at home. With over 30 years in the drinks industry between them, Jenny and Philip have a vast passion and knowledge of spirits and cocktails.

From picnics at the park with friends, to house parties, Distill and Fill can cater classic cocktails or any other variety of drinks for your hosting needs. If that wasn’t enough, from offering a full consultancy service for UK based bars and restaurants, organising and running drinks events as well as offering a bespoke cocktail and spirit service, the list is endless!

Bottled and blended in Wales, with pure Welsh water from the Brecon Beacons, Mortal Bunny Spiced Rum is a 40% small batch premium rum. Paired with a fizzy ginger beer, or perfectly neat, this spiced rum is infused with an array of warm spices including spiced berries, cinnamon sticks and black pepper.

Created by international rugby star & entrepreneur Richard Hibbard, Mortal Bunny is a Rum & Gin brand, born in South Wales, and has recently entered Tesco’s shelves across Wales with both the Spiced Rum and the Black Cherry Spiced Rum.

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Tidy Tea

Lilo’s Handmade

@tidy.tea || tidytea.com

@liloshandmade || liloshandmade.com

Working the land and with nature is the philosophy of Tidy Tea, who have a passion for sustainability and fair pricing for products. A family business based in West Wales, they produce an extensive range of sustainably sourced tea from across the World, from a Moroccan Green Tea, to a black tea & peach Californian tea, all tea blends are packaged in plastic free packaging and are GMO free, and they wholeheartedly believe in the importance of taking responsibility in ensuring a sustainable future for the next generation of tea lovers.

As seen on Channel 4’s programme “Aldi’s Next Big Thing”, Lilo’s Handmade Pasta make fresh and dried artisan pasta every day. In an array of different colours, all pasta is made using premium Italian pasta flour.

Using clear bags out of plant matter not only enables the product to be shown in all its colourful glory, but is also environmentally friendly, as the packaging is also safe for home composting.

Suitable for both vegetarian and vegan diets, customers can visit their deli in Bridgend, where they can also fill up their own containers, which saves on packaging waste. Lilo’s Handmade pasta is also made using superfoods, vegetables and natural ingredients. Even the chocolate flavour pasta is vegan and vegetarian!

Fungi Foods @fungi_foods_uk || fungifoods.co.uk

Bullion Rum @bullionrum || bullionrum.com You may have already seen the recognisable Bullion Rum bottles, and it’s no wonder considering their multi award winning success and appearance in GQ magazine. With all natural flavours, Bullion is a brand who prides itself in high-quality spiced rum distilled in Demerara and blended with natural flavours and spices sourced from all over the world. Using pure Welsh water from the mountains of Brecon Beacons, the four flavours currently on offer are Bullion Gold original, Bullion Java Banana, Bullion Coconut and Bullion Passion Fruit.

Grazed Bakery

Green Up Farm @greenupfarm || greenupfarm.co.uk Toni and Alex Borella, the owners of Green Up Farm, decided to investigate and learn about more environmentally friendly methods of food production due to their passion for nutritious, fresh and local products. Established in November 2021, it became the first hydroponic vertical farm based in Pembrokeshire, producing high-quality, fresh microgreens, herbs, and specialty crops. Crops are grown in an indoor hydroponic vertical farm with controlled lighting, temperature, and water supply, ensuring a dependable production all year long. Vertical farming is viewed as an environmentally friendly method of producing food, since it requires little land space and water with no use of pesticides or fertilisers to keep the greens as clean as possible.

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Versatility, sustainability and deliciousness all come into Fungi Food’s belief in mushrooms, and their mission is to showcase all the beautiful varieties available out there! “Born and raised in the North Wales mountains’’, Fungi Foods offer a plethora of fresh mushrooms such as Lion’s Mane, Grey Oyster and Shiitake, as well as dried mushrooms and even a kit to grow your own! Their passion for exploring new mushroom strains is apparent, as they believe that mushrooms have a “big part to play in the future” and should be celebrated!

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@grazedbakery || grazedbakery.co.uk Lovingly hand baked in North Wales, Grazed Bakery brownies are making their mark on people’s taste buds with their decadence. Husband and wife, Mark & Renee, run the bakery which nestles in the Welsh countryside. Product innovation is the cherry on top of their business, due to their “passion for all things sweet.”

Sustainably speaking, they also use fully compostable or recyclable packaging and consistently work on ways to reduce waste, which is driven by their target to lower their carbon footprint by being an environmentally friendly company. Although their artisan brand is continually growing in success and in large-scale operation, they endeavour to keep their small business and family-run values.

Haydn Pugh

Kings of the Castell Castell Howell Foods is proudly celebrating 35 years of business and has grown to become the leading independent foodservice wholesaler in Wales. With a history steeped in farming, they’ve diversified and adapted through the decades and now with almost 800 staff, service the length and breadth of Wales, the border counties and the South West of England.

‘Celtica’ is home of the coveted Celtic Pride Welsh beef brand and their team at ‘Celtic Coast Fish’, provide the freshest seafood from around the British Isles, including Pembrokeshire Crab. Their dynamic team at Authentic Curries & World Foods are continuously developing their range, offering variety to the multiple sectors they serve including retail and education.

With the founding family still at the heart of the business, it’s clear that the authentic family values are still coherent at the very core of its operation. Staff development is paramount and Castell Howell actively provide opportunities for new skills to be acquired through collaboration with local colleges and business.

In nurturing talent, possibilities naturally arise and this has led to the recent appointment of Haydn Pugh as the Head of Sales and Marketing. Having been with the business for 14 years, Haydn’s journey from Cash & Carry Warehouse Assistant to his new role is a prime example of how the business supports its team from within.

With agriculture and the rural community at the heart of Castell Howell, developing indigenous, supply chains and working towards environmental and social goals is integral. The Celtic Pride Premium Beef Partnership is celebrating its 20th anniversary.

The partnership between farmers, processors and Castell Howell is incorporating measures to mitigate environmental impacts and has started to measure its carbon footprint from farm to plate. Phase one showed that farming methods sequestered nearly 50% of emission back to the land, with total carbon some 27% less than the national average for a similar sized operation. Working in collaboration with NFU Energy, Phase 2 is already underway.

Haydn Pugh said ‘’I’m both thrilled and so very proud to be given this exciting opportunity as the Head of Sales and Marketing. Working with the Board of Directors, I have a strong vision for the future for Castell Howell and I am thankful for the trust they have shown in me. The foundations of the company are built on its people and it’s vital that the family ethos of inclusivity, respect and support is carried through to the generations to come’’ In terms of products, parallels can be drawn to their passion and support for the Welsh supply chain.

Led by Lindsey Hamer, the Welsh produce category now boasts well over 2000 products, from over 100 suppliers from across the country. In the past 12 months, Castell Howell have spent almost £37m on Welsh produce and proudly serve to provide a platform for such products to reach the market.

Lindsey said ‘’ The growth of our Welsh food range is testament to the high calibre of products manufactured here in Wales. It’s imperative that we stock the right balance, that offers variety to chefs and catering teams for their menus, as well as those that appeal to the more retail orientated businesses and the tourism industry ’’

Further collaborations across the Welsh supply chain include a partnership with Blas Gwent, Food Sense Wales and Cardiff Council to deliver locally grown vegetables to 22 Cardiff schools. Phase two involves two additional local producers into three local authorities: Cardiff, Carmarthenshire and Monmouthshire. Castell Howell diligently work with stakeholders to develop nutritionally compliant, palatable and attractive food for children and also organise interactive cooking demonstrations and food art competitions.

Castell Howell is a customer centric business, so listening to what their customers want, understanding the market and keeping up to date with emerging food trends, feeds into the development of the business and is supported by constant investment.

Above all, Castell Howell is a home grown company that understands the importance of continual growth and support for their customers and staff. They’re not just a business, they’re a family and they put all their efforts into exceeding expectations with the finest products and exceptional service.

Castell Howell’s love of Welsh produce doesn’t stop there. They are extremely focused on manufacturing their own range of products and recent investment has seen an extension to their Celtic Pie & Pasty division, which is home to the ‘Real Tidy Like’ range of pasties.

Other products in their manufacturing portfolio include handmade cakes, sandwich fillings, preserves and cured meats. Castell Howell’s 34,000 sq.ft butchery

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Chris Harrod

Destination Mystery and paradox The Wye Valley Huntsham Farm

Parva Vineyard

There’s something mysterious about the Wye Valley, each silvery turn yielding a new expanse of green, deeply wooded countryside. This may be why, despite the beauty which draws so many visitors, the area has retained its tranquility. This has certainly contributed to the thriving food scene: there are visitors in plenty throughout the year to support a wide variety of local businesses whilst allowing plenty of discovery. Myfanwy Alexander takes us on a tour of this gem of a foodie destination area.

One of the glorious paradoxes of the Wye Valley is that it is both fertile and wild and nowhere is this put to better use than at the Whitebrook. The history of this restaurant with rooms is well-known: it became celebrated under James Sommerin and held Wales’ longest-retained Michelin star. It is a decade now since Chris Harrod took over, drawn to the beauty of the location and the superb quality of local food. It’s an ideal time to visit the Whitebrook as they celebrate their decade with special prices for accommodation. The menu, which causes the Michelin Guide to describe the Whitebrook as ‘the definition of a destination restaurant’, perfectly reflects the abundance and the unspoiled countryside: flavours like meadowsweet and woodruff bring the subtle aromas of a rural walk onto the plate. The vegetarian menu is exceptional: featuring the often-neglected potential of roots, these are ambitious dishes with real integrity.

Harrod’s signature dish is Huntsham Farm Middle White Suckling Pig. Richard Vaughan supplies pork to so many of Britain’s most highly acclaimed chefs but his meat is never foregrounded more than on his own doorstep at the Whitebrook.

The wines of the Ancre Hill Estate feature on the Whitebrook’s wine list: not only are they geographically close but share Harrod’s passion for sustainable production. Their Blanc de Noir seems to embody the sunshine of their south facing site, producing an elegant, unfussy sparkling wine. High above Tintern,

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on a site rumoured to have been producing grapes in Roman times, Tintern Parva Vineyard is renowned for their Dathliad Sparkling. Over towards Raglan, The Dell is an established vineyard building on their heritage with innovation: they recently launched two new wines with witty Welsh branding: Yr Afanc an aromatic white with a touch of spritz which features a lake-dwelling monster on the label and Y Lleidr.

‘Lleidr’ is Welsh for ‘thief ’ and commemorates the blackbirds who, with the help of a few local badgers, nearly wiped out their 2021 vintage of this rosé, a blend of Pinot Noir and Seyval Blanc. It is a cliche to describe rosés as ‘summery’, but the fresh fruits of this delicious glass can certainly lift equinoctial glooms.

Monmouthshire has an established reputation for wine but is now home to a growing number of other drinks producers. Silver Circle Distillery, nestling in the woods at Catbrook produces a strong range of innovative spirits, combining a passion for quality with some pretty smart marketing. I should declare at the outset that I am pretty well over novelty gins because too many of them have the colour palette of a five-year old’s birthday cake and the aroma of a failing chemist’s shop run by an elderly lady. Having a naval tradition in the family, it is a point of principle that pink gin is created with angostura bitters, not red food colouring.

However, the Silver Circle spirits stand out like a good deed in a naughty world. It helps that from the first moment the aroma reaches your nose, you know that

Dining their Wye Valley Gin stands proud as a traditional ginflavoured gin, with thoughtful botanicals and a long, almost creamy finish. It merits drinking without tonic, like a Dutch Jenever.

ambitious touches which make the guest aware that this is a pub punching above its weight. Simple staples like a Club Sandwich are delivered with respect and panache and the service is exemplary.

The Catbrook Honey Gin is even more suitable for drinking over ice or, dare I say it, as a shot. Working in partnership with the Wye Valley Meadery, this mellow gin avoids being over-sweet and yet is almost buzzing with honey. Avoid syrupy mixers with this liquid treat because there is so much more to be enjoyed than just sweetness, with thyme and sorrel citrus coming through. To avoid ham-fisted domestic mixery catastrophes, Silver Circle do a range of premixed cocktails, including the Paradiso Collins (who knew tea could be such fun?), the Coconut Espresso Martini featuring coconut-washed vodka and, close to their roots, a Damson Negroni, which is warming and perfectly judged. And just to show that there is always something new under the sun, they have provided the waiting world with a Bloody Mary in a can, a ring-pull Warhol tribute deploying their own Black garlic vodka and umami. Though a tad strong to use as a hangover cure, it’s a new store-cupboard essential.

An unexpected gem well favoured by locals is hidden away in the village of Kemeys Commander, just outside Usk. In a cosy shed outside the Craft Renaissance workshops and gallery, glorious homemade cakes steal the show but there are a wide range of meals available, all featuring local produce. A Covid success story, springing from a service providing food to the housebound, this cafe is now the hot ticket for Sunday lunch in the area.

The Wye Valley Meadery are another company powering innovation from tradition, taking a product with a deep heritage and developing it for modern tastes whilst at the same time producing something distinctive in the highly crowded craft beer market. As well as the traditional tipple of poets and princes, they produce a range of sparling meads, like the flowery Honey and Elderflower which is now vying with Tomos Watkins’ Cwrw Haf to be my Welsh Summer Drink. The honey delivers a lusciousness to the taste without weighing it down. Brothers Matt and Kitt’s business, Hive Mind, is driven by their admiration for bees, encompassing honey beers and even bee-keeping courses.

Visitors to the area have a wide choice of places to eat and, as ever, the best bet is to follow the locals.

In Tintern, for example, ‘The Wild Hare’ provides unpretentious food with strong local links and

Monmouth is bristling with good places to eat and drink and is the home of the inspiring Marches Deli, which showcases many of the products from the best local producers. I stopped by late in the day as I knew I could not leave the area without tasting the renowned air-dried charcuterie from Trealy Farm who have been leading the field with their top-quality products since 2004, including no less than sixteen salamis. I struggled to decide between the beef bresola and the pork collar, but opted for the latter, fondly imagining that I would put it on a pizza with sun-dried tomatoes, spinach and slices of Angiddy soft cheese, made with Jersey milk near Chepstow. Alas, the pork collar proved too tempting, so I ate it on its own as a snack: it was perfectly piggy, the fat was rich without oiliness and, to my great delight, the seasoning was spare yet effective, avoiding the common pitfall of much British charcuterie which seems to think that things are much more Continental if they are smothered in cracked black pepper. So, my supper was Blue Wenallt, the new cheese from the Brooke’s Dairy team. It would be unfair to describe Wenallt as a choice for those who don’t really like blue cheese because blue cheese does not have to be an assault on the senses. With its crumbly texture and intriguing glimpse of musk, this is an instant classic, requiring nothing more complex than a few home-grown tomatoes for a perfect supper, which I ate resolving to return to the Wye Valley very soon.

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Crafts Renaissance

Trealy Farm

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Caroline Sarll Veggie rebellion Pale ‘n’ pasty, poorly-nourished and proselytising. Just a few of the fallacious barbs levelled at me since I first said toodle-pip to poultry and other fleshy tucker many moons ago. I’m still aghast at carnivorous glass-house dwellers who continue to throw stones, just to appease their own consciences – why else would they indulge in constant veggie-baiting? You tell me. It’s expiation incarnate, if you’ll pardon the etymological pun.

As an inveterate soil-sister, I can invariably see the funny side of the many misconceptions. Take volume.

On my 18th birthday, my now-husband booked a dinner reservation in a posh Vale pub. His mother (bless) rang ahead to tell them I was “one of those vegetarians” and we assumed all would be ‘tickety-boo’.

The dining room was a dizzying display of Ercol and starched white linen. The prelude, we felt, to gourmet greatness. When the only veggie option – a cheese omelette – arrived on a domed antique silver platter, my expectations were tempered. “And for you, madam, our finest eight egg omelette” came the stentorian ta-dah announcement. With the cheese oozing from its curve, it looked like a gibbous moon. Sadly, nothing oozed out of me for the following week. Egg-bound doesn’t even come close. My first, painful experience of chefs believing that we poor, meat-deprived veggies need compensatory plus-size portions. We don’t, thank you very much.

The teetotal trope is equally infuriating. Working in Italy for Radio 4’s Food Programme, hiding my early first pregnancy, I obviously declined all alcohol. “Aah” came the unanimous mutterings around the corporate table. “She’s vegetarian. That’s why”. A recent doc’s appointment reconfirmed this sophistry. “Non-smoker, good. Vegetarian diet? Ah, so you don’t drink then”. I’m surprised she didn’t put me down as a nun.

Poorly-nourished? That one really makes my broccoliinfused blood boil. Just ask Lewis Hamilton, Venus Williams, Martina Navratilova and Novak Djokovic, whether following a plant-based regime hampers prowess. Conversely, as well as helping them manage many health issues, Djokovic says he adopted this diet to elevate his performance. The first man to garner 24 Grand Slam titles - talk about Plant Power. So, in a protein-packed nutshell (many nuts, and cheddar to

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boot, have almost as much protein as chicken) – we pulse-eaters are literally pulsating with goodness.

Add lentils, split peas and quinoa for a fibrous, gutbrushing, gastronomic gold mine. I produced two bouncing babies, without ever ingesting a morsel of meat or fish. And, for the record, I have never been anaemic in my life. Remember Popeye? No surprise that brawny, but also brawn-declining Arnie Schwarzenegger is “80% vegan”, a choice he made to lower his cholesterol, which alongside reducing the risk of many cancers and diabetes is an added plus. QED, I say, aka Quorn Est Demonstrandum. Ok, so that was a tad tub-thumpy. Ooopsie.

As with all good meals, let’s wind down with an indulgent pud, shall we? Or not. Who decided that legume-loving means no naughty desserts? Airlines are the biggest culprits. Flying to India (the largest percentage of vegetarians globally btw), I thought their chefs would be a tad savvier than airlines from more meat-orientated countries. But, as so often happens, my husband enjoyed the stickiest toffee pud, whilst I was ceremoniously served…. a poached pear.

Wahaaay! Function-fare is equally guilty, a corollary, I fear of that other seriously aggravating belief that all vegetarians are now vegans. I never get cream or rich, dairy ice-cream and all my desserts are egg-free. I have been known (sssshh, don’t tell) to swap my free-fromall fruit salad for a not-looking neighbour’s palateswaddling treacle sponge.

Even mains are increasingly afflicted by this misplaced dietary spartanism. Most veggie choices are either butternut squash risottos or tofu-tender-stem concoctions. Give me some cheese. Puh-lease. I nearly kissed the waiter in Gwbert’s Cliff Hotel recently , when I saw Goat’s Cheese and Beetroot Cheesecake on the menu. Divine. I also got an extra scoop of udderly decadent full-fat ice-cream. Yabba-dairy-do!

The last word goes to the German scientific study concluding that we veggies are less extrovert than our slaughter-condoning cuzzies. Jumping jackfruits! I invented histrionics. I will pirouette for the postie or my microwave-glass reflection and have performed (seriously) to a stuffed toy. I must be chowing down on chicken drumsticks in my sleep. Imagine.

CHFOODS.CO.UK

Milford Haven is the perfect place to visit this Christmas with a range of places to eat, shop, enjoy and stay at this magical time of year.

Win a £50 voucher to spend at Milford Waterfront*

*To enter visit www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk/taste or scan the QR code *Conditions apply. See online for details.

Competition closes on 31st December 2023.

Find out more at www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk #visitmilfordhaven

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Learn local…

The principle of buying local produce is nothing new, but, more and more each year, its importance is skyrocketing due to the contemporary backdrop of climate change. ‘Sustainability’ as a buzzword is here to stay. Practices which were once just ‘on-trend’ are now firmly necessary.

As we all know, most food-related businesses are making efforts to consider food miles in the way they operate or write their menus. In our shared and varied industry, it’s become vital to support and nourish our local and community ecosystems: the farmers, the producers, the suppliers, the employers and the educators. We have a lot to be thankful for on our doorstep, which we can utilise to help our planet survive.

Doing so has manifold benefits. Fostering local business connections and building up a friendly and nearby network is what helps turn an industry into a community that people want to be part of and, crucially, stay in. At University of Wales Trinity Saint David (UWTSD), that is something held in high regard.

As a university for Wales, their central vision is to promote a dual-sector educational system that stimulates economic development in our region, across Wales and beyond. In other words, to nurture a symbiotic system. They send graduates out into the working world prepared, familiar with the local layof-the-land and ready to contribute refined skills back into Wales and the wider world.

Some of these skills are best learned from the people already doing them – allowing those businesses (in this case the Hospitality sector), who are future employers for graduates, to get involved in students’ learning journeys from the start. The team at UWTSD listen to their needs as industry experts and shape courses accordingly.

On Gastronomy programmes within UWTSD’s leading School of Hospitality, students are introduced to a range of producers and suppliers straight away, taught about sustainable sourcing, menu costings and encouraged to develop local networks which they can draw on professionally. These vital insights from visits and experiences are what is needed to create conscious future food professionals, who can truly reflect and champion our unique locality in their work and careers moving forward.

In October, students visited Swansea Fish based in the marina near the UWTSD’s SA1 Campus and were given an educational workshop by business owner Paul Rees. Paul taught them about different types of boats and seafood found in Welsh waters, discussed sourcing and sustainability, and allowed them to get their hands dirty during a filleting lesson.

Paul Rees said: “It was great to have the students visit and be able to show them the full range of wonderful seafood available in this region, as well as how to handle it properly in the kitchen as trainee chefs.

Answering their seafood-specific questions and getting to meet them was a privilege, and I look forward to staying in touch professionally as they grow in their respective careers.

“It’s so important to support and source local, and I think it’s fantastic that the University knows this and gives its students the opportunity to build networks with people like me in the south Wales trade.”

About the visit, a first-year student said: “I had such a good time learning about fish, and what an opportunity in my very first week! I can’t wait to get stuck into the course and I really appreciate being introduced to contacts that will help when I need to build my own menus in the future. I’ll certainly remember this experience and look forward to getting to meet lots more producers and suppliers around Wales.”

UWTSD is proud to be part of the Welsh food scene, curating experiences that inspire brand loyalty and drumming up excitement about the excellent produce on offer. So: learn local, from the treasure trove around us, and you can’t go far wrong, in our opinion. Because, what better way to teach, than, quite literally, from the ground (or the ocean) up?

Producers and suppliers can get involved by providing experiences, products, or hosting student visits. Get in touch with Jayne at j.griffith-parry@uwtsd.ac.uk.

© Andrew Lewis

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Dechreuwch eich gyrfa gyda gradd israddedig gennym ni: gyda gradd israddedig gennym ni:

Rheolaeth Gastronomeg Ryngwladol | BA (Hons) Gastronomeg Ryngwladol | BA (Hons) Rheolaeth Gwesty Rhyngwladol | BA (Hons) Rheolaeth Gwesty Rhyngwladol | BA (Hons) Yn PCYDDS, fe gewch chi gyfleoedd diwydiant Yn PCYDDS, fe gewch chi gyfleoedd diwydiant blaenllaw ym Mwyty Beach House, Oxwich a blaenllaw ym Mwyty Beach House, Oxwich aHotels by Dorchester Collection, Marriott International, Dorchester Collection, Marriott International, Hotels Hilton, i enwi ondond ychydig.

Cyflwynir ein ein rhaglenni as by Hilton, i enwi ychydig.

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Cyflwynir ein rhaglenni leoliad mewn diwydiant a modiwlau a addysgir ar ag un ar mewn diwydiant a chyflwynir modiwlau ar leoliad mewn o’n campysau yndiwydiant Abertawe.a chyflwynir modiwlau ag addysgir ar-lein. addysgir ar-lein.

Byddwch yn dysgu oddi wrth bobl broffesiynol a fydd Byddwch yn dysgu oddiangen wrth bobl fydd yn dysgu popeth y mae i chibroffesiynol ei wybod – ya sgiliau yn dysgu popeth y mae angen i arnoch chi ei wybod – y sgiliau a’r wybodaeth sydd eu hangen i ymgymryd â’r a’r wybodaeth eu hangen arnoch i ymgymryd â’r byd fel myfyriwrsydd graddedig hynod gyflogadwy. byd fel myfyriwr graddedig hynod gyflogadwy.

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Am ragor o wybodaeth, ewch i | For more information, visit: Am ragor o wybodaeth, ewch i | For more information, visit: www.uwtsd.ac.uk/ba-international-gastronomy-management www.uwtsd.ac.uk/ba-international-gastronomy-management

Melin Tregwynt was founded by Henry Griffiths, who bought the mill in 1912 and for over 100 years this family company has continued the traditions of Welsh weaving.

Beautiful, useful, and that little bit special.

Contemporary yet steeped in history our weaves can be found in design led stores and hotels around the world.

In 2022 to preserve its unique legacy, to protect skills and jobs, and to safeguard its heritage, the company became an Employee Owned Trust ensuring that all the staff have a stake in the business.

Our shop and café are open 7 days a week.

We use local Welsh produce and are open for breakfast, light snacks, lunch, tea with locally baked cakes, and great coffee with a changing range of seasonal specials.

Melin Tregwynt, Castlemorris, Haverfordwest, Pembs, SA62 5UX T +44 (0)1348 891 225 E info@melintregwynt.co.uk W melintregwynt.co.uk

Woven in Wales. melintregwynt.co.uk

BUSNES TEULU SY’N ANGERDDOL GYMREIG

YN FALCH I GEFNOGI CYFLENWYR CYMREIG.

A FAMILY BUSINESS THAT’S PASSIONATELY WELSH PROUDLY SUPPORTING WELSH SUPPLIERS.

chfoods.co.uk

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Hold the front page Bottling plant to reduce Welsh milk food miles Pembrokeshire Creamery is to open a state-of-theart milk processing facility so that Welsh milk can be bottled in Wales rather than be transported to England as it is currently. The new plant in Haverfordwest will create at least 60 new jobs, as well as providing an overall benefit to local farmers and rural communities.

The announcement was made by the company at the Pembrokeshire County Show in August, where it engaged with dairy farmers and potential milk customers about the opening.

The creamery will have the capacity to bottle 60 million litres of milk in its initial 12-18 month phase, building to 120 million litres per year when it reaches full capacity. It will give UK supermarkets the opportunity to offer their Welsh customers milk that is both sourced and bottled in Wales.

Managing director Mark McQuade said: “We’ve already had a huge amount of interest from supermarkets and wholesalers keen to sell Welsh milk that’s been bottled here in Wales.

Ultimately, our end goal is for all Welsh milk that is sold in Wales to have been processed and bottled in Wales.”

The development of Pembrokeshire Creamery has been supported by the Welsh Government and the EU RDPfunded Food Business Investment Scheme and HSBC. www.pembrokeshirecreamery.com

Wales selects its best for worldwide hospitality challenge Young Welsh hospitality professionals have been fighting it out for the chance to represent their country in the Young Chef Young Waiter (YCYW) finals in Monaco this November. The winning chef in the Welsh heats was Sam Everton, a hospitality lecturer at Coleg Ceredigion who also works at Y Seler in Aberaeron; and the winning waiter was Carys Webster, a section waiter at Grove of Narberth.

The competition was open to entrants under the age of 28 who live and work in Wales and was hosted by University of Wales Trinity Saint David (UWTSD) in Swansea. Winning Waiter Carys Webster said: “I don’t think my win will sink in for another few days, but I know I want to do Wales proud at the world finals in Monaco and give it all we can as a team!” Chef winner Sam Everton said: “When I entered the competition, I only expected some personal development and a bit of fun. Winning was a huge bonus!”

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In second place was chef Alex Dunham and waiter Adele Sutherland, and in third place was chef Ellie Osborne and waiter Robbie Hughes.

Dr Jayne Griffith-Parry, Director of Hospitality programmes at UWTSD, said: “The YCYW competition is all about educating and supporting young people’s development, whether they are learning in a professional setting or within a higher education environment. UWTSD offers a range of programmes within tourism, events and hospitality, all of which have a strong industry flavour.”

To find out more, or to enter next year’s heats, check out: www.uwtsd.ac.uk/tourismevents-hospitality/

Radnor Hills adds new site in Swansea Powys-based sparkling water and soft drinks maker Radnor Hills has added a new production site to its business by acquiring the Highland Spring Group’s Swansea site, and a 40-acre water source in the heart of Bannau Brycheiniog National Park.

The site has serviced major supermarkets in the UK with still, sparkling and flavoured water drinks for several years, and Radnor Hills had been keen to find an additional site in Wales.

Established in 1990, the family-owned company has a turnover of £64.4 million and produces more than 400 million drinks a year, including its spring water, Heartsease Farm sparkling pressés, Radnor Splash, and its school-approved children’s drink, Radnor Fizz. All are made using pure Welsh spring water sourced from the fifth generation family’s farmland, which is minutes from the production line.

The company is a zero-to-landfill business which has invested £1.8 million in solar panels to help power its operations. It is the only drinks manufacturer in the UK to produce drinks on-site in all four packaging formats – glass, can, PET plastic and Tetra Pak. Customers include Sainsbury’s, Asda and Morrisons, schools and the NHS. William Watkins, Founder and Managing Director of Radnor Hills, said: “The Blaen Twyni site presented us with the ideal opportunity to expand our capacity with a plentiful source of pure natural Welsh spring water, which complements the supply of pure water we already have. We’re excited to welcome the highly skilled and dedicated workforce from Blaen Twyni to our Radnor family.” www.radnorhills.co.uk

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News

Welsh Homestead is smoking hot, hot hot!

It’s been a phenomenal year for the Ceredigion based smokehouse, the Welsh Homestead. Clare Jesse, who runs the family business from a smallholding near Penuwch, in West Wales, has this year won four new Welsh Great Taste awards for her savoury jams and bacons, as well as winning bronze for her Rum and Molasses Smoked Bacon at the World Charcuterie Awards in London.

Speaking about her success, Clare, who moved to West Wales from England a few years ago to start a new life, said: “We’re over the moon to have won 1 star Great Taste Awards for our Smoked Bacon Jam and our Smoked Chorizo Jam, both of which were new this year, as well as for our Fatalii Gourmet Smoked Chilli Jam, and our Rum and Molasses Smoked Bacon. This means that 6 out of our 10 jams now have a Great Taste award and 4 out of 6 of our bacons.”

And for those keen to try a little slice of Welsh Homestead life, an invitation awaits you to stay in the family’s converted barn and try a one day course on practical smoking skills. Alternatively, you can spend your time just relaxing in the hills, watching the red kites circling, exploring the rugged coastline and gazing at the stars.

To find out more about the products and the place, visit www.welshsmokery.co.uk

Golden Fork Award goes to traditional Welsh mead The Great Taste Golden Fork trophy for Wales has been awarded to the Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co. from Monmouthshire, for its Wye Valley Meadery Traditional Mead.

Described as a “gorgeous pale-yellow mead”, the mead is crafted in the beautiful Wye Valley by a small, family-run company which takes the world’s oldest form of alcohol and gives it a modern twist. The mead impressed the Great Taste judges with its “glorious blossom aroma with woody, earthy elements and a citrus sourness, hinting of fermentation”.

An incredible 14,195 product entries from 3,609 artisan food and drink companies across the world were tasted and considered for the Golden Fork.

Speaking about the award, Kit Newell, co-founder of the Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co, said: “This recognition is testament to the passion and dedication of our small team as we work together to craft unique meads which tell the story of our beautiful region, its biodiversity and the quality of the honey it provides.”

Hive Mind’s Traditional Mead reflects the flavours of the Wye Valley through the honey which goes into every bottle. It supports local habitat conservation by collecting honey from local hives and the mead is sold direct to consumers through its website and from the company’s Caldicot tap house. It can also now be found on the shelves of Selfridges, and in the dishes of

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Michelin-starred restaurants, like James Sommerin’s Home in Penarth. www.hivemindmead.com

Holm House: Penarth’s private haven for the stars With its stylish restaurant and lounge (newly refurbished) and a new private dining area, plus, a sumptuous, refurbished spa, it’s hardly surprising that when the ‘A’ list come to the Cardiff, they come to Holm House.

The Penarth based boutique hotel and restaurant by the sea has recently hosted none other than boxer Anthony Joshua, David Hasselhoff of Baywatch fame, and singer and actor Harry Styles, who recently performed two sell-out nights at the nearby Cardiff ’s Millennium Stadium.

So, if you’re looking for an exclusive private dining venue to hold a private event – or just fancy a bit of star spotting – check out the laid-back vibe at the Holm House Hotel. Elemis spa treatments and packages are available throughout the week, and afternoon teas, Sunday roasts and a la carte dining all offer fresh, local produce served in style. www.holmhousehotel.co.uk

Taking food to where it’s needed most Research by the Trussell Trust shows that 20 per cent of people in Wales experienced food insecurity in 2022, and this number has more than likely increased as inflation has climbed. To help address this challenge, FareShare Cymru works with all corners of the food industry to fight hunger and tackle waste.

FareShare Cymru recognises that surplus food from the agricultural sector costs money to harvest. So, its Surplus with Purpose fund is designed to make it costneutral for people to donate. The fund can cover costs of labour, harvesting, packaging, and transport. This means that produce that otherwise would be wasted can be used to help vulnerable people.

Working with Puffin Produce, from Pembrokeshire, the business was able to donate in a cost neutral way more than 30,000 kilos of surplus cauliflower which would otherwise have gone to waste. Speaking about the scheme, Matthew Thomas of Puffin said: “When staff have grown and nurtured a crop there is nothing worse than seeing food wasted. This initiative offers a solution to the problem of food waste, by allowing us to cover our own harvesting and labour costs for donating otherwise commercially unviable surplus.

Not only do these donations help people in genuine need, but they also help towards our company goal of reducing food waste.” fareshare.cymru

Tail-waggingly good for your dog Healthy, natural, delicious treats for your dog, at home and out and about Dogtastic for your business Customers, their four-legged friends and your bottom line will love them! www.dewkes.co.uk Also available in retail, pubs, bars and dog friendly restaurants 63 Newton Road | Mumbles | Swansea | SA3 4BL sales@dewkes.co.uk

CELTIC PRESERVES

Elevate Your Taste Experience Redefining the Taste of Tradition

TRADITIONAL & ARTISAN CHUTNEYS & PRESEVES EXCLUSIVE TO CASTELL HOWELL WWW.CHFOODS.CO.UK www.taste-blas.co.uk

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Protected status welcomed for Single Malt Welsh Whisky Single Malt Welsh Whisky, which has been produced in Wales since 2005, is now officially protected with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) UK GI status. Four Welsh distilleries were part of the final application for PGI status, each with their own unique methodologies: Penderyn, In the Welsh Wind, Da Mhile, and Coles. And since then Aber Falls has also been added to the list of distilleries with PGI status.

The UK GI scheme was established in 2021 following the UK’s withdrawal from the EU, and ensures that certain food and drink products can continue to receive legal protection against imitation and misuse.

Single Malt Welsh Whisky is Wales’ first GI spirit, and joins the likes of Anglesey Sea Salt PDO, PGI Welsh Lamb and Welsh Leeks PGI in the Welsh GI family.

Aber Falls in Abergwyngregyn in North Wales released its first whisky and opened a visitor centre in May 2021, and is now exporting to 40 countries. West Wales-based “In the Welsh Wind” Distillery advocates a sustainable approach to production and sources barley grown within 10 miles of the coastal distillery.

It has also pioneered an inhouse malting process which uses green malt rather than kilned grain to produce its spirit. Penderyn opened its third Welsh distillery in Swansea in July, already having bases in the Brecon Beacons and Llandudno. Meanwhile, Da Mhile is an organic farmhouse distillery in Ceredigion and Coles is a family business from Llanddarog in Carmarthenshire.

Miracle Growth Castle Dairies is absolutely thrilled with their continuous growth journey across Wales. In August, they celebrated the successful launch of Castle Dairies with Halon Mon Roll Sea Salt in Sainsbury’s stores throughout Wales, where it joined the Welsh Salted Butter—a beloved favourite among Sainsbury’s shoppers since 2020.

The next chapter in their journey involves the nationwide introduction of Castle Dairies’ Halon Mon Roll at Ocado, which is set to launch on October 23rd.

Furthermore, they are pleased to announce that Castle Dairies Spreadable Butter will now be available in Welsh Tesco Express stores.

David Cooknell, the Head of Sales, enthusiastically remarked, “This is an exciting moment for Castle Dairies as our brand continues to flourish. Our Welsh butter has been a resounding success with our Welsh customers, and we are overjoyed to extend our presence to more stores in Wales and make it accessible Nationwide with Ocado. We hope that it will be just as well-received, and we look forward to many more exciting developments ahead.”

Welsh Government Minister for Rural Affairs, North Wales and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths, said: “It is brilliant news Single Malt Welsh Whisky has joined the Welsh GI family with its name now protected. The Welsh Whisky industry continues to go from strength to strength, playing an important role in the food and drink sector here in Wales.”

Dragon Roars It’s been a busy few months for Dragon. In September Malan Hughes became SCC’s first ever female board member. Malan, who was born and raised on a dairy farm near Pwllheli and is a qualified vet was delighted with her new role saying, “The creamery has been very important to us as a family and I’m very grateful for this opportunity. I look forward to contributing towards the ongoing success and growth whilst ensuring the cooperative element of the creamery is recognised and strengthened.”. Earlier in the summer Dragon had its best year at the International Cheese Awards (ICDA) claiming five golds, one silver and four bronze awards for its wide range of Cheddar cheeses, Double Gloucester, Red Leicester and Caerphilly cheese.

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Take a foodie tour of Milford Waterfront With an impressive range of restaurants and cafés, and views overlooking the boats at Milford Marina and the Milford Haven Waterway, you’ll be spoilt for choice with locally landed fish, fresh shellfish, good old hearty pub grub, delicious doughnuts and irresistible ice creams all on offer at Milford Waterfront.

News Head to dulse for an exciting dining experience at the 4* Tŷ Hotel Milford Waterfront. Managed by the team behind the Celtic Manor Resort and serving up some of the freshest produce from the Pembrokeshire coast and countryside it also boasts 100 bedrooms should you wish to make a night of it . You’ll also find a strong influence from local suppliers on the menu at Martha’s Vineyard. Foam’s impressive glass room is a great option for dining al fresco, as well as the balcony at The Harbourmaster. Step back in time and enjoy a unique vintage dining experience at Madison’s Bar & Restaurant, or make your way to Nautico’s where you’ll find the very best homemade classics with a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

By day, the Spinnaker Café, Freckles Café, and the Crow’s Nest Café all serve breakfast, light bites, lunch and refreshments with outdoor seating. Pick up a graze box from The Cheesy Cow or some freshly baked pastries or doughnuts from Sugar Loaf, or enjoy a wander around the Waterfront with an ice cream from Velluto Gelato or The Scoop.

Or, maybe you fancy something a little different? A night on the water in a Floatel Cabin moored among the boats at Milford Marina with a private balcony to enjoy the best views of the water and spectacular sunsets.

Rum-up To Christmas Devil’s Bridge Rum have fully embraced the Christmas Market scene in the ‘rum-up’ to Christmas having signed up to attend dozens of markets and fairs around Wales. They’ll be bringing a fine display of rum and fun with them as Co-founder, Gregor Shaw explains “DBR’s flourishing market team is all set to rekindle the spirit of discovery and connection! We are embracing the excitement as we venture into local food and drink markets, farmer’s markets, and festive events, bringing the enchantment of Devil’s Bridge products closer to our loyal patrons. It’s more than a sip; it’s a shared experience, so getting out there and meeting our customers at these events was an obvious next step.”

There are too many to mention here but expect to enjoy a tasting from Llandudno in the north, via Welshpool and Abersytwyth in mid Wales to Cardigan and Narberth in the West and Swansea, Pembrey and Picton in the south, and at many points between.

Iechyd Da! www.devilsbridgerum.com

www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk

GOLDEN FORK AWARD WINNING MEAD, MADE IN WALES a refreshing take on the world's oldest tipple made with honey from our own hives in the Wye valley

brewed on 100% British honey - supporting pollinators - boosting biodiversity

HIVEMINDMEAD.COM

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Restaurant Reviews

Truffle, Swansea Swansea is full of surprises. Long considered to be a place to by-pass on your way to the delights of Mumbles and the Gower Peninsular it sometimes gets a bad press. But given its sweeping bay, gorgeous sea-front, grand Victorian parks and houses and more recently its burgeoning food scene, Swansea really is a destination in its own right. Spearheading this foodiebuzz is a restaurant that’s been raved about by no less than The Times’ resident food critic, Giles Coren.

Nestled in vibrant Brynmill, is Truffle, where chef Jon and partner Jodie have been delighting their local, largely professional, community (the uni, Singleton Hospital and trendy Uplands are also nearby) for the last few years. It has a relaxed vibe, with gentle

chatter and cool jazz, and a light and airy feel, courtesy of floor to ceiling bay windows, complemented by contemporary white décor, bare brick, artsy posters and legacy Victoriana. It’s a good start made even better by a warm reception from our host Martha.

While deciding what to order we couldn’t resist beginning with sourdough, which was excellent but, wow, the oil and reduced, slightly gooey, intense, balsamic in particular, were cracking. The King Prawn starter was a fun rainbow of colours. A more measured, but just as successful, approach to flavours, with a hint of salty sea, subtle garlic, gentle heat and refreshing mango, allowed the plump, fresh prawns to steal the limelight. The goat’s cheese was a masterclass in complementary taste and textures. Creamy, tangy cheese and crunchy, nutty sunflower seeds, sharp balsamic and sweet strawberries, all combining to create late summer on a plate.

My perfectly pink confit of Barbary duck breast main was tender and full of juicy flavour. Creatively stacked in a tower of slow-baked, caramelised fennel and fig and rounded off with a French inspired jus and lovely crunchy sauté pots. Again, textures and flavours combined to create a dish, greater than the sum of its parts. B’s Asian inspired aubergine with whipped tofu was equally well received. A beautiful balance of dark sweet soy, crisply charred spring onion, creamy tofu and delicately fragrant rice. A sprinkling of sesame added pleasing bite to the whole. But oh, the chips. Neither of our mains came with them, and so proud are the staff of their take on this humble staple, they insisted we try some. And boy, were they right.

Triple cooked, crisp outside, just the right amount of fluffiness inside. They were pretty darn perfect.

For dessert I went for a pud I’d never had before – a Catalan Brulée. Similar to its French cousin, but with custard that’s milkier and with a more intense flavour profile, reminiscent of bara brith. The sweet, burnt bitterness of the crunchy crust combined with it to glorious effect. B stuck with a classic, Chocolate Brownie and (Swansea favourite) Joe’s ice-cream. It hit all the right spots. Warm, soft, gooey, intense chocolate overload and a classic, rich vanilla ice-cream. Hard to beat.

We finished with coffees and a house truffle – well, it had to be done. Presented as though a rose, it was a smooth, rich hit of cocoa and a perfect way to end the meal.

It may be imaginative, playful and beautifully crafted but there’s no pretension here. Truffle’s honest, it’s fun and the food tastes, and looks, the bomb. No surprise that Coren is such a fan.

Truffle, 1A King Edwards Road, Brynmill, Swansea SA1 4LH www.truffleswansea.com 01792 547246

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Gwasanaeth Cynghori ar Fwyd a Diod Cymru yw Cywain, rydym yn cynnig cymorth wedi’i deilwra i bob cam o siwrnai twf eich busnes – o adnoddau ar-lein, ar ddechrau’r daith i fentora, a helpu busnesau sefydledig i wireddu eu potensial twf llawn.

As the Wales Food & Drink Advisory Service, we offer support tailored to your business stage – from online resources to support your early days to mentoring, to help established businesses realise their full growth potential.

Os ydych chi’n gynhyrchydd bwyd neu ddiod - gallwn ni eich helpu chi hefyd!

If you are a food or drink producer we can help you too!

Rydym yn gweithio gyda chynhyrchwyr ledled Cymru yn cynnig cefnogaeth a gwybodaeth i ddatblygu a thyfu busnes.

We work with producers from across Wales giving them support and the knowledge they need to develop and grow their business.

Gadewch i ni ddechrau’r sgwrs, cysylltwch â ni heddiw...

Let’s start the conversation, get in touch with us today...

cywain@menterabusnes.co.uk

Recipes

Piquant Welsh Beef and Yorkshire pud burritos Prep time: 30 mins Cook time: 2hrs 20 mins Serves 5

Ingredients • • • • •

1.5kg PGI Welsh Beef brisket Oil 450ml beef stock or beer Fried onions and gravy (optional) Horseradish mayo

For the dry rub: • 2 tbsp coarse ground black pepper • 1 tbsp brown sugar • 1 tbsp onion powder • 2 tsp mustard powder • 2 tsp garlic powder • 2 tsp chilli powder • 1 tsp paprika • 1 tsp cayenne powder • 1 tsp salt Yorkshire Pudding Batter, per person • 2 large eggs • 150ml milk • 65g flour • Seasoning • Oil to cook

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Or you can use a packet mix and make up as instructed

Method 1.

To make the rub combine all the dry ingredients together. Brush the surface of the brisket with a little oil and then using your hands rub the dry ingredients all over the meat. Leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour – overnight would be even better.

2.

Preheat the oven to 160°C / 140°C fan / Gas 4.

3.

To cook, heat up a little oil in a large frying pan and fry the meat sealing all edges and fry until browned.

4.

Transfer to a roasting tin lined with foil or baking parchment, gently add stock or beer around the meat, cover and cook in oven for approximately 2 hours per 450g of meat until the meat is very tender. Or you can cook it in a slow cooker on low for approximately 8 hours.

5.

Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 30 minutes before carving against the grain or shredding.

6.

Preheat the oven to 200°C / 180°C fan / Gas 6.

7.

Make the batter – put the flour into a large bowl, make a well in the centre and add the eggs, mix gently, gradually add the milk and seasoning, mix well and beat to incorporate air.

8.

Leave to stand in fridge for 20 minutes.

9.

To make the burrito, use a 22cm round tin, pour a little oil into the tin and heat in the oven until very hot.

10. Pour enough batter to make a layer of approximately 5cms. Allow to cook for 15-20 minutes.

11. When cooked transfer onto a chopping board and begin to assemble burrito.

Spread a little horseradish mayo onto the wrap, then top with pulled beef and sliced onions. Add a little gravy if required.

12. Gently roll into a burrito.

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Recipes

Slow cooked porc shoulder in cider, apples and fennel Prep time: 15 mins Cook time: 2 hrs 30 mins Serves 5+

Ingredients • • • • • • •

1.5kg boned and rolled porc shoulder oil salt 1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and quartered 2 eating apples, cored and quartered 300ml cider 1 fennel bulb, cut into wedges

3.

Scrunch the foil around the meat but leave the rind exposed to allow the crackling to crisp.

4.

Place in the oven for the calculated cooking time.

5.

Remove the joint from the oven and allow to stand for about 10-15 minutes before carving into thick slices.

6.

Serve with creamy mashed potato and curly kale and drizzled with the cooking juices.

Method 1.

2.

Preheat the oven to 180ºC / 160ºC fan / Gas 4. Weigh the joint and calculate the cooking time: 30 minutes per 450g / ½kg, plus 30 minutes (for medium).

Dry the rind and score it deeply using a sharp knife. Brush with oil and sprinkle with salt. Place in a deep foil-lined roasting tray along with the apples, fennel and cider.

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Recipes

Welsh Lamb and rosemary pie with buttery herb pastry Prep time 35 mins Cook time 2 hrs Serves 5+

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • •

450g PGI Welsh Lamb, diced (boneless shoulder, boneless neck fillets or leg) 2 tbsp seasoned flour 2 tbsp oil 1 leek, washed and sliced 1 large onion, sliced 2 celery stalks, diced 400g small potatoes, halved 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped 1 tbsp thyme, finely chopped 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly 200ml red wine 500ml stock

Method 1.

Coat the lamb in the seasoned flour.

2.

Heat half of the oil in a large pan or

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3.

flameproof casserole dish and fry the lamb until nicely browned. Remove the lamb from the pan.

8.

Gradually add the beaten egg and enough water to bring the pastry into a soft dough.

Use the remaining oil and add the leek, onion and celery and fry for a few minutes until lightly coloured. Return the lamb to the pan.

9.

Chill in the fridge until required.

4.

Add the wine and stir for 2 minutes.

5.

Add the remaining ingredients: potatoes, herbs, stock, and redcurrant jelly. Bring to the boil and place a lid on the pan and simmer for approximately 1 hour 30 minutes until the lamb is tender. (If you’ve used diced leg steaks, then cook for 1 hour). Thicken if required.

6.

While the filling is cooking, make the pastry.

7.

Place the flour in a bowl (or in a food processor), add seasoning. Add the butter and pulse or rub in with your hands until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the chopped herbs.

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10. When the filling is ready, remove the lid and allow to cool slightly before spooning the mixture into your pie dish.

11. Roll out the pastry, brush the edge of the dish with beaten egg or water and cut thin strips (5cm wide) of the pastry and use to place around the edge of the pie dish.

Brush with egg and then gently place the rolled pastry over the pie top.

12. Cut off any pastry hanging over the edge.

Press to seal and then crimp. Use any remaining pastry to decorate the pie top.

13. Brush with the beaten egg, then place in the oven and cook for approximately 30 minutes until golden and the filling is piping hot.

14. Serve with additional vegetables.

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Recipes

Celeriac, potato and garlic mushroom gratin An autumn gratin rich with garlic mushrooms, melting onions and hearty potatoes. Serve with a salad, or greens or with sausages or pork chops.

2.

Slice the mushrooms and heat a large frying pan on a medium-high heat then add half the butter, the mushrooms, the picked thyme and crushed garlic. Season well and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring until the mushrooms are cooked.

Ingredients

3.

Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C Fan/Gas 7.

Whisk the cream with the stock in a bowl.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

4.

Drain the celeriac and the potatoes then arrange a third of these in a layer in the base of a wide, deep, ovenproof dish. Top this with half the sliced onion and half the mushroom mixture then dot with a third of the remaining butter and a little grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper and grated nutmeg. Repeat with another layer, then top with a final layer of potatoes and celeriac.

5.

Dot with the remaining butter then pour over the stock and cream. Press everything down into the liquid, scatter over the remaining cheese and bake for 1 hour 10 minutes until golden and cooked through.

Serves 4-6

2 medium-sized celeriac (about 500g) 600g potatoes Squeeze of lemon 400g of chestnut mushrooms 80g of butter Handful of thyme sprigs 4 garlic cloves 250ml of double cream 500ml of chicken or vegetable stock 2 large onions Nutmeg 75g of strong cheese, e.g. Caws Teifi, Parmesan

Method 1.

Thinly slice the peeled and washed celeriac and peeled potatoes either with a mandolin or knife into 3mm slices, and put these in a bowl of cold water with a squeeze of lemon juice while you prepare the other ingredients.

Recipe from Cywain Harvest by Nerys Howell, published by Y Lolfa, and available at good bookstores and ylolfa.com Pictures: Phil Boorman

Barti Rum Brownies

Whatever you do in life, just make sure you have a large jar of Barti Rumsoaked raisins in your kitchen larder. Simply fill a sterilised jar with quality organic raisins and pour over Barti Rum until the raisins are covered.

Ingredients • • • • • • • • •

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115g butter 55g cocoa powder 2 eggs 225g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla essence 45g plain flour 85g chopped walnuts, not too small 85g raisins (infused with Barti Rum) 3 tbsp laverbread

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Method 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Melt the butter and stir in the cocoa powder.

Beat the eggs, sugar and vanilla together.

Add the cocoa mixture and stir to blend.

Sift the flour over the cocoa mixture and fold in.

Add the walnuts, raisins and laverbread and mix.

Put into tin and bake for 30 mins at 180˚C. Allow to cool in the tin, then cut into slices and serve.

A recipe from The Little Laverbread Book, text © Jonathan Williams, food photography © Huw Jones, published

by Graffeg 2023. £9.99, available from bookshops or online at graffeg.com

Cocktail of the month

Tymhorol a chynaladw y Seasonal and sustainable

£19.99

Mix up a Welsh negroni this Autumn!

As Summer slips away into Autumn, there’s a definite change in what we eat and drink. No more salads and BBQs, hello comforting cawl. Richer flavours, red wines take over more frivolous rosés, and when it comes to cocktails, deeper more satisfying combinations win out.

The Negroni is a case in point. With its origins firmly in the warmer climes of Italy, it’s perhaps strange that this is, in fact, the perfect serve on a damp, blustery evening when you need some warmth. A combination of gin, vermouth and Campari, immediately recognisable from its earthy red tones, even the colour speaks ‘Autumn’.

Llyfr coginio yn llawn r yseitiau hyfr yd a thymhorol A new bilingual cookbook full of lovely seasonal recipes

Ar gael Tachwedd / Available November

.com

Llyfrau dros Gymru | Books for Wales

A cask-aged gin makes a real point of difference in a Negroni. The cask notes add to the depth of the drink and complement the vermouth and Campari well. In the Welsh Wind’s Palo Cortado Cask-Aged Gin is a great example of this. A Master award winner, this is a delicate, complex gin, but becomes the star of the show mixed with the vermouth and Campari, using slightly less of these latter ingredients. Stirred and served over ice, garnished with a slice of orange, this will definitely see you through the next few months till the better weather returns!

Welsh Cask Negroni Serves 1

Ingredients • • •

40ml Palo Cortado Cask-Aged Gin 30ml Vermouth (we used another great Welsh product – Still Wild Sweet Rosso Vermouth) 20ml Campari

Method 1.

2.

3.

Add the Gin, Vermouth and Campari to a rocks glass with ice and stir to combine and chill.

Strain into a clean glass with ice.

Garnish with a slice of orange.

Iechyd Da!

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www.welshsmokery.co.uk

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Food and Drink

Food & Drink Reviews Barti Cream Rum Liqueur Having captured more than 470 ships, Pembrokeshire born Barti Ddu, was the most successful pirate of the Golden Age. However, he is not only remembered for seizing treasure, but for being an advocate of equality.

Barti fiercely enforced his pirate code which ensured that all crew members, whatever their background, had an equal share of the booty and did not mistreat their women. Fast forward several centuries to when Jonathan Williams, Founder of The Pembrokeshire Beach Food Company was developing a spiced WelshCaribbean rum (infused with laver seaweed), where better to draw inspiration than from Barti Ddu. As fans of their original spiced rum, we seized the opportunity to try the Barti Cream liqueur. It’s totally plant-based, but offers a luxurious creaminess, alongside the warmth of the rum. Unlike most full cream liqueurs though, it’s light and easy drinking.

Gently spiced with vanilla, clove, cinnamon and orange, it tasted amazing – like an ephemeral whiff of Christmas in a glass in fact. Definitely part of our treasure trove this yuletide. www.bartirum.wales

Dragon Hand-crafted With their hand-crafted range, Dragon take aging cheese to a whole new level, subterranean. Using their usual high quality Welsh milk, but now drawing on the unique climate offered by north Wales’ slate caverns, Dragon take their cheeses on a transformative journey, developing a depth of flavour that reaches new heights. We tasted Platinum, a robust cheddar with a well-rounded flavour profile, savoury yet tangy, and a beautifully balanced texture, crumbly yet richly creamy. We enjoyed it with Dragon’s Spiced Plum Chutney, a perfect marriage of sweet and savoury.

Next up was Emerald, full-bodied cheddar with punchy leeks, a classic combo, perfectly executed and Welsh through and through. We paired it with their lively Piccalilli, and still the leeks sang on. Then came Ruby, vibrant on the eye, with a crumbly, flaky texture and gorgeously nutty flavour. But Onyx is without a doubt the jewel in Dragon’s crown. A luxurious cheddar, infused with Penderyn whisky, and aged in madeira casks. The woody, smoky whisky notes reveal themselves gently and when paired with Dragon’s Beetroot and Orange Chutney, a resounding harmony of savoury, malty and honeyed citrusness ensues. dragonwales.co.uk

Dewkes Snacks for Dogs This may seem an odd inclusion, but there are good reasons why we want to write about these particular dog snacks. Firstly, they’re very high quality and

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produced by a Welsh company, Dewkes of Mumbles.

Secondly, the ‘management’, as dog owners who enjoy a pint and a nice meal, have often wondered why dogs (and their owners) aren’t catered for more seriously by retail and hospitality. Which leads to the third point – the doggy pound. Hospitality has an open goal to add to the bottom line (by 1 or 2%) by both selling quality dog snacks to lots of wealthy customers and making their venue more attractive to them, making for more spend per head and more customers. Capiche?

So, what of the snacks? There’s a selection 100% natural treats, such as beefy sticks, chicken jerky, fishy bites, and pork scratchings, all perfect for keeping a dog happy and content while you, or your customers, have a drink or a meal. And dogs love them – the company dog Billy is particularly fond of the chicken jerky, while the chewy beefy stick keeps her entertained for hours.

Woof woof, she says… www.dewkes.co.uk

Carmarthen Ham Move over Parma, Prosciutto and Serrano, there’s a new kid on the block. In fact, it’s not new at all, but you may only recently have heard of it. Carmarthen Ham is an air-dried ham first perfected by Albert Rees, a Carmarthen market butcher, back in the 1970’s, that’s recently been awarded PGI status, making it one of a growing group of such products in Wales.

Still in the same family with son Phil and grandson Matthew now at the helm, it requires skill and patience to get it just right – the ham must be a certain weight, dried at the correct temperature in the correct environment, cured, with a secret ingredient, to produce a balanced flavour and matured for precisely the appropriate length of time, which is an art in itself. And boy, is it right. Mellow, delicately salty and with an incredible taste, it melts in the mouth, filling airways with a gorgeously deep aroma. In our office blind tasting, it won hands-down against continental alternatives being subtler in flavour, more complex and mellow and with a better mouth-feel. Sublime. For the record, their bacon, which we also tried, is just as good – you won’t get better traditional bacon anywhere. www.discoverdelicious.com and www.blasarfwyd.com

Henllan Bakery bread and vanilla school cake Denbigh based Henllan Bakery, are a family owned bakery that have been around since 1908. So, as they say, they know a thing or two about baking. They also have ambition. Already a major force in north and mid Wales, they’re steadily expanding throughout the rest of the country. They have a winning formula for their baked goods, which include breads, pies,

Food and Drink morning goods and cakes. Namely, to use high quality ingredients and their years of experience to create family favourites with traditional appeal.

Their retro Vanilla school cake is a perfect example. No school child, or grown-up of a certain age, can resist the appeal of this classic and Henllan’s take is light, fluffy and delicious, without being over-poweringly sweet. Their bread may resemble a classic white sliced loaf but its taste and texture elevate it. It’s light, not soggy at all, has good bounce back and above all has plenty of taste – unlike most others of its kind. www.henllanbread.co.uk and in retailers throughout Wales.

Fynnon Wen Soft Joyce Ffynnon Wen, a family run farm, nestling in rolling hills near Llandeilo, has been producing artisan sheep’s milk cheeses from their small flock of East Freisan and native Lleyn dairy sheep since 2021. Harriet Cooke makes the cheeses by hand, in small batches from their rich, sweet sheep’s milk.

We tasted Ffynnon Wen’s Soft Joyce, a soft cheese with a bloomy rind, washed in a local cider. It has a smooth creamy consistency with a slightly feathery crumbliness to its centre. We loved Joyce’s light texture and complex flavour profile, offering a delicious gentle, tangy saltiness that felt fresher than a traditional cow’s

milk equivalent. Absolutely delicious on crackers or with crusty bread. Ewe won’t be disappointed! fynnonwenfarm.com

Tea By The Sea For Emily Morgan, it was natural to form a company that would combine her enduring love of tea, deep interest in wellbeing and concern for the environment.

Having blended her own tea for many years, Tea By The Sea was born when Emily realised she could provide others with delicious teas that were also congruent with her values. For Emily, blend is all important, not only marrying different tastes, but paying close attention to each tea’s specific properties.

We sampled several of the fantastic tea products in the range including Mind Fuel, a punchy greentea cocktail of lemongrass, ginseng and gingko, Sleepy Tea, with its gently aromatic combination of chamomile, valerian root and peppermint, left us dreamily drifting; and our favourite, Daily Calm, (the glass jar and wooden scoop make it perfect for gifting), peppermint, chamomile and lemon balm working in harmony. We enjoyed it on a Welsh beach, after an evening sea-swim, floral gentleness and refreshing, minty perfection! www.teabytheseawales.com

Celtic Country Wines WELSH SUSTAINABLE HAMPERS NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE & IN SHOP

To subscribe to taste.blas call 029 2019 0224 Visit our website: www.taste-blas.co.uk

01559 372152 -- HENLLAN, CEREDIGION

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Cooking to Impress Myfanwy Alexander My summer ended on a high note in culinary terms picking up a handful of coloured cards at our local Show, betokening success in the Cookery classes. My high journalistic standards require full disclosure: only one was a winner’s red card and to garner four prizes I had entered no less than eight competitions but hey, a win’s a win. My ‘Dish Involving Tomatoes’ was one of my own signature dishes, a simple but frankly delicious layering of good tomatoes, garlic and basil which I served in a large wine glass giving, I felt, an appropriate note of sophistication which was, honestly, miles away from the chi-chi style beloved of Berni Inns in the 1970s. And in other competitive cookery triumphs, Wynne Evans showed us on MasterChef that the combination of heart and ambition, blending wit and identity can create food statements to delight and astonish.

So, as the nights are drawing in and we might be gathering our friends for something a bit more complex than a barbeque, I have been musing about how we express ourselves in the kitchen, especially if we fancy showing off a bit. I’m not talking about dull duty dinners or one upmanship but those chances where we must do something more than our regular round of supper dishes which can be wearing. Put down that pasta and get creating!

If you are choosing what to make for an audience wider than your nearest and dearest, it’s worth asking yourself if you have what we are now encouraged to call a ‘signature dish’ and if so, how tricksy is this tour de force? Because if you, like me, have developed a little stable of tasty but not complex people pleasers,

there is no more stress-free way of garnering admiration than by re-packaging an old favourite with a bit of glamour. I make what my mother would call a ‘forgiving’ chocolate cake where the fudge icing can conceal a multitude of sins. Even if it falls to the floor and breaks in bits, you can squidge it together and serve it to guests. It is always the Platonic ideal of a chocolate cake but for the purposes of show-stopping, it can look a tad rustic. Depending on circumstances, the process by which one can ‘pimp my bake’ can take many forms but I’m a great fan of marbled white and dark chocolate rose leaves, for example. And, crucially, you can make them in advance.

However skilful you may be, your dinner will not be a winner without excellent ingredients, as fresh as possible. If you are not lucky enough to have a good local butcher, you really ought to move house at once but if that seems a bit drastic, think about meat deliveries. Graig Farm quite accurately describe themselves as the ‘go-to’ on-line butchers in the UK and you know when you see that their range includes marrow bones and ox cheek that they are as serious about good cooking as their customers. And as the season gets underway, check on the Pennant Valley Game site: a chicken casserole may be rather plodding but give your guests partridge and you can’t help making a good impression. And here is some exceptionally good news: Swansea Bay Fish, already purveyors of outstanding quality to high-end professionals and the lucky residents of their local area, have started a consumer facing service using the Fresho platform.

My own culinary Achilles Heel is presentation. Years of flopping a lot of warming stews on plates to feed a lot of hungry mouths has left me with a bit of a chip on my shoulder about how food looks, and that chip isn’t a tawny beauty hand crafted from a perfectly ripe sweet potato, either. But I am fully aware that you don’t get the wow factor from soup kitchen service, so I try my best to be stylish, even if that only goes as far as choosing a good dish to be the setting for your masterpiece. Think outside the Tupperware, as it were, and do take into account the colour combinations of plate, food and lighting: I’ve seen beautifully cooked salmon reduced to pallor which make it seem unappetizing by a pillar box red dish.

There we have it, the secret to success: cook quality ingredients building on established skills and don’t be afraid to gussy up the finished product. Consider your show to be officially stopped.

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www.taste-blas.co.uk

Our new Dragon Handcrafted Cavern selection has been developed in partnership with Llanfair Slate Caverns near Harlech, adding a real depth of flavour to our premium range of cheese.

Made to bespoke recipes and matured underground over a number of months until selected at the perfect point by our expert grader. This traditional ageing process takes place in original mining caverns, which have been specifically converted into cheese caves, Our Handcrafted Cavern Aged range has a rich flavour true provenance, and its story is steeped in Welsh history.

DRAGON HANDCRAFTED CAVERN PLATINUM AGED WELSH CHEDDAR

DRAGON HANDCRAFTED CAVERN RUBY AGED WELSH RED LEICESTER

Cavern Aged Welsh Cheddar matured deep in the caverns of Llanfair Slate mines.

Cavern Aged Welsh Red matured deep in the caverns of Llanfair Slate mines.

The cave environment infuses unique earthy and mineral notes, while allowing for a perfectly balanced texture – crumbly yet smooth. As time passes, its taste becomes more complex, unveiling a symphony of sharpness and rich creaminess.

Boasting a flaky and open texture, inviting you to explore its intricate layers.

Its slight sweetness, reminiscent of caramelized flavours, adds a touch of indulgence to the overall profile.

DRAGON HANDCRAFTED CAVERN EMERALD AGED WELSH CHEDDAR & LEEK

DRAGON HANDCRAFTED CAVERN ONYX AGED WELSH CHEDDAR WITH WHISKY

Cavern Aged Welsh Cheddar blended with leek, matured deep in the caverns of Llanfair Slate mines.

Cavern Aged Welsh Cheddar blended with Penderyn Whisky matured deep in the caverns of Llanfair Slate mines.

Complementing it’s robust savoury flavour, a distinct onion tang characterises this cheese. Delicious with some chunky bread and chutney.

The distinct sharpness of Cheddar harmoniously combines with the rich, smoky essence of Penderyn Welsh whisky, creating a tantalizing symphony of tastes. The cave-aging process bestows a crumbly yet smooth texture, perfect for slicing or melting.

www. dragonwales.co.uk

/DragonCymru

@DragonDairy

@Dragon_Wales

UNIQUELY WELSH. EXPERTS IN THEIR FIELD.

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