taste. blas, May-July 2024

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

May - July 2024

TRIFFIC JAMS

Perfection in a jar

POP-TASTIC

Wales’ best soft drinks

STATUS SYMBOLS

Wales leads the way on PGI

TRENDY CARDI

Cardigan’s food scene is buzzing DIGGING FOR WALES

Home-grown is best for Myfanwy

Publisher’s Letter

Green Shoots

It’s been a very long winter. Near on six months of solid rain and gloom. And that gloom hasn’t just been meteorological. With the cost-of-living crisis, in ation, political instability, international con icts, let’s be honest – there hasn’t been much to be joyous about.

But these past couple of weeks, the mood seems to have li ed a little. A good deal of that is down to the weather. e rain has been more intermittent, although, as a certain Welsh bard might have put it, it refuses to go gently into the night. But the sun is increasingly present, and the days are getting longer. Plants are blooming, and trees are a picture-perfect, verdant green across our lush Welsh countryside. And these green shoots are not con ned to nature.

While they may still be some way from feeling ush, businesses seem to be a little more con dent that we’re nearing the end of the present economic challenges with in ation edging down, and the UK emerging from recession. With a new leader in Wales and with the knowledge that by the end of the year we will have certainty on the political direction for the whole

country, a period of economic stability beckons. at being the case, we can justi ably hope for a long overdue purple patch from which we should all bene t.

Talking of purple patches, judging by the sheer number of Welsh products with coveted PGI or PDO status, we can con dently say Welsh food and drink is in one right now. To nd out exactly why check out our in-depth feature on PGI and PDO on page 16. We also have fascinating features on Welsh so drinks, many of whom have been trading for generations and are still family owned, exquisite Welsh preserves, the journey of a Welsh butter producer from almost bust to boom and how a devilishly good distiller has established a thriving business with the help of Cywain. We nish with Myfanwy getting her hands dirty growing her own veg and fruit. Green shoots all round.

Paul Mulligan Publisher

EDITORIAL

Contributors: Jon Gower, Myfanwy Alexander, Jack Tilson, Mike Lewis, Caroline Sarll, Eryl Crump, Sue Austin, Sarah Morgan, Jonno Mack

Admin: Karen Kelly

ADVERTISING

Publisher: Paul Mulligan

Tel: 029 2019 0224, sales@conroymedia.co.uk

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taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, ©Conroy Media 2024. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.

Regulars

Bara Brith Sausage?

It’s all Greek to Jon Gower

Happy Eaters

Caroline’s hubby makes a plate face

Hold the Front Page

e latest news hot o the press

Restaurant Reviews

Bay views (almost) in Angle and Cardi

Recipes

Lamb rump, beef curry, pork ribs or sea bass – the choice is yours

Finger Lickin’ Treats 47

Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

Green Fingers

Myfanwy’s a dab hand up the allotment

50

Jon Gower Eureka!

Forget Archimedes and the King’s crown –Jon Gower would rather a bara brith sausage.

When that wrinkly-skinned Greek Archimedes leaped up in the bath having had his eureka moment it ushered in several ages of such bright moments of epiphany. People have been having them ever since. One of the most recent examples was had in Conwy in north Wales. Here, Ieuan Edwards, master butcher and director of Edwards of Conwy had a vision of making bara brith sausages. And thus was their latest product preordained.

e rst time I heard of them I led the idea under fascinating but couldn’t quite get my head around it. I thought of the various recipes we have in this house which couple meat with fruit, such as Persian lamb with apricots and a Brazilian dish that marries beef with pineapple but this idea was far more subtle. And well, improbable. But intriguing, too.

As we know bara brith is not only quintessentially Welsh – as Welsh as the jagged peaks of Eryri accompanied by a soundtrack of harp music glissandi owing as brightly as the river Mawddach – but it also has spices in the mix. Or, rather, mixed spice. It was that element I found hard to visualize, or at least to anticipate on my taste buds.

So I phoned Ieuan, who cheerfully explained that they’re always looking for new ideas. ey’ve made sausages with walnuts in the past. Some varieties have failed despite their being in his opinion very good – he is still surprised that their stilton ones didn’t take o . at hasn’t curbed his restlessness when it comes to the next big idea.

He sounds like a lovely man as he explains me that a local shop, Siwgr and Sbeis in Llanrwst make bara brith apjacks, which might have planted the seed of inspiration for his sausages. He further explains how Edwards of Conwy steep dried fruit in Welsh tea overnight as part of their preparations. But he’s not lovely enough to share with me his secret ingredient and I don’t push him, knowing you should never provoke a man with a ready supply of cleavers.

So I ordered a dozen bara brith bangers (a name I’m about to quietly trademark) and killed some time

waiting for the overnight van by looking up the history of bara brith. e etymology of bara brith is simple as can be as it’s derived from bara meaning bread and brith which translates as speckled. One is tempted to suggest that a good drink to pair with it would be Old Speckled Hen beer but that one’s from the other side of O a’s Dyke and luckily Ieuan has already suggested trying the locally brewed Snowdon Cra Lager.

Bara brith, it transpires, was traditionally made in farmhouses throughout the country by adding fruit, sugar and spices to the basic bread dough to make a sweet treat for special occasions. It has subsequently turned into a colloquialism—to “over spice the Bara Brith” means to do something to excess. A bit like my cooking a dozen sausages for a family of four.

In 2006, British supermarket chain Morrisons withdrew bara brith from sale at 19 of its Wales-based stores. Complaints followed, but the company insisted that the bread was removed because of lack of sales. A survey conducted by a rival Sainsbury’s the following year, showed that 36% of teenagers in Wales surveyed had never tried Bara Brith.

Luckily, I had two teenagers to hand for our bara brith tasting – my daughters Elena and Onwy, both of whom raised a sceptical eyebrow. My Californian wife Sarah, brought up on hot dogs watching baseball at the Oakland Coliseum, also needed to be convinced. I bought some nger rolls and duly put the Edwards of Conwy bara brith sausages in the wrn.

Forty- ve minutes later the aroma was enough to send Ianto the dog into a state of delirium. I regretted not making some home-made coleslaw but watched my darling guinea pigs carefully for their reactions, even as I took my rst bite. Sarah thought they were lovely, especially the caramelised raisins and the nutmeg like American breakfast sausage patties. My eldest voiced approval while my youngest thought them very Christmassy. Everyone was all convinced. I thought they were a subtle, quiet triumph, up there with my favourite sausages of all time. A eureka moment truly made real.

Top of the Pops

Mike Lewis enjoys some of Wales’ best soft

drinks

Corona carbonated drinks may seem as ‘1970s’ as space hoppers and kipper ties (‘Every bubble passed its fizz-ical!’), but the brand was originally created back in the 1880s by two south Wales grocers keen to capitalise on the growing influence of the temperance movement.

Corona may be no more, but Wales, with its high levels of rainfall and pristine spring water, maintains a rich heritage of producing soft drinks to this day.

And the Covid pandemic changed the way we buy them. Welsh consumers are no longer content with buying their favourite soft drinks from the local supermarket: they like to buy direct from the manufacturer as well.

Here, we highlight and review the fabulous range of Welsh soft drinks available direct from the manufacturers:

Radnor Hills

To ensure you have the best quality soft drink or water 90 per cent of it has to be made from Welsh water. That is the mantra of this Powys-based family business –the largest independent soft drinks company in the UK – whose spring water comes from 12 boreholes. Radnor produces a range of sparkling pressés under its Heartsease brand using its famous water as a base. Flavours include traditional lemonade, ginger beer and apple and pear. Try their take on Sparkling Elderflower – a delicately floral but zesty masterpiece – truly summer in a glass!

radnorhills.co.uk

Lowes Soft Drinks

A business steeped in traditional values but contemporary products, this family-run company has been trading in Cardiff since 1890 and drinks include hardy perennials such as limeade and cherryade, while coming soon are a range of flavoured waters. Lowes also specialises in a range of sugar-free fruit drinks for the more discerning and health-conscious customer. Its sugar-free dandelion and burdock is a teeth-friendly version of the beverage that has fuelled countless children’s parties while its pink bubble-gum and blue raspberryade both taste as good as they look!

lowessoftdrinks.co.uk

Flawsome!

The founders of this company were inspired by childhood memories of enjoying treats from fruit picked in their nan’s garden. So was born Flawsome, a

venture on a mission to combat food waste and pave a path to a more sustainable world. It specialises in transforming imperfect fruit into delectable drinks including sippable juice cartons, apple and sour cherry, sweet apples and apple, mango and orange packs; a range of lightly sparkling juices, packs of pure juice, sustainable health shots and variety boxes and bundles. Although its ‘wonky fruit’ drinks come in all flavours, the divine sweet apple truly does taste as if it has been plucked straight from the tree!

flawsomedrinks.com

Tovali

‘Refreshingly Welsh’ is the slogan of this Carmarthenbased, family-run business, established in 1937. Tovali manufacture and bottle a range of dilutable fruit drinks in one and 5 litre PET bottles; the standard range includes Squashes, Sugar-Free Squashes and Cordials. Their sugar-free blackcurrant cordial is a standout – a sharp, tangy finish infused with delicious summer fruit. Tovali also manufacture and bottle an economy range under the CORACLE label, which offers excellent value for money and includes Orange Squash and Lemon Squash. Low Calorie Whole Orange Drink and Low-Calorie Whole Lemon Drink are also available.

tovali.co.uk

A family-run business launched in 2007 with the aim of growing apples for fruit juice and cider in west Wales, Welshcraft began with open pastures and no premises. In 2008 it planted its first orchard of four acres with dozens of apple trees and perry pear varieties. Now, after several years in the planning, Welshcraft has its own ‘food safe’ factory and – with a growing reputation for quality juices – apple, honey and lemonade, apple and elderflower and apple and ginger, is going from strength to strength. Our tip is its Apple and Ginger – a classic blend of delicate aromas finished off with a tongue-tingling aftertaste.

welshcraft.co.uk

Brecon Carreg

Having begun life as a true cottage industry, Brecon Carreg water may be the leading Welsh brand in the UK yet is clearly not content to rest on its laurels. It has just introduced an award-winning range of revitalising tonic waters in classic, light, lemon and grapefruit flavours all produced locally with the company’s renowned fresh and natural mineral water. Low in calories, they make a healthier choice for those seeking a guilt-free drink. Whether you enjoy a classic gin and tonic or simply want a refreshing non-alcoholic beverage, this exciting new range is just the tonic! breconwater.co.uk

Daioni Organic

Nestled in the shadows of Pembrokeshire’s Preseli Mountains this family-owned producer was founded by award-winning dairy farmer Laurence Harris. Long-life flavoured milk comes in whole milk, chocolate, strawberry and banana flavours which apart from being a favourite for kids’ lunchboxes are also used by Manchester City and Everton footballers! Other favourites include organic milk and Fairtrade coffees – salted caramel, cafe latte and macchiato. But its Organic Chocolate is arguably Daioni’s piéce de résistance. An unforgettable mix of creamy goodnesson-the-go that knocks bog-standard milkshakes into the proverbial cocked hat.

daioni.co.uk

Conwy Kombucha

This award-winning family-owned business seeks to ‘maximise the goodness of nature’ by producing high-quality organic kombucha through a natural and authentic method of production. ‘Blighty Booch’ comes in a number of flavours including mixed, ginger, bramley, elderflower, nettle and rosehip, cherry and original. Their acclaimed Organic Ginger Kombucha was described by a Great Taste judge as ‘a really fine example of what a kombucha should be’, and its Blighty Brew whole-leaf tea boasts a rich and subtle flavour that lingers in the taste buds.

blightybooch.com

Princes Gate

The days when Welsh rugby players re-fuelled with a cup of tea and cigarette are long-gone. These days the men in red hydrate with bottles of Princes Gate water, the product of a business that began on an organic farm in a remote corner of Pembrokeshire. A landmark deal has been struck by the Welsh Rugby Union to supply the whole of professional and elite rugby in Wales until 2025, while Princes Gate is also the official water supplier to the Ironman Wales triathlon. Why not also try its lemon & lime and forest fruits fizzy water? Still a natural drop of Wales – just a bit more flavourful!

princesgate.com

Welsh Farmhouse

This Brecon Beacons-based family business can count HRH King Charles among its customers and its acclaimed apple and pear Royal Variety juices are made from fruit picked at Royal gardens at Llwynywermod and Highgrove. Welsh Farmhouse produces over thirty varieties of single-variety and blended apple and pear juices each season; produce coming from its own orchards. Its vast range of apple juices range from sweet to dry – sufficient choice to suit even the most discerning palate. And for those who fancy something a little different, its pears are picked slightly early in order to retain a sweet, but mellow flavour. The end result is a pear juice beautifully balanced and light –the only trouble is that Welsh Farmhouse cannot make enough of it!

welshfarmhouseltd.com

FareShare Cymru wants your surplus food

At FareShare Cymru, we redistribute good to eat surplus food from the food industry that would otherwise have gone to waste to 171 charities across Wales who work to tackle the root causes of poverty. These include school clubs, community centres, pantries, and homeless hostels.

20% of adults in Wales have experienced food insecurity over the last few years, whilst approximately 400,000 tonnes of mostly edible food is sent to landfill. By redirecting surplus food to those who need it, we’re taking an environmental problem and turning it into a social solution.

Surplus food can be unpredictable and, at times, challenging to use; think giant celeriac, huge quantities of limes, or 50kg bags of porridge oats. At the beginning of 2023, we made the decision to explore new and innovative ways to access and use as much surplus food as possible. From this, the Redistribution Kitchen Wales Project was born!

Situated in Cardiff and Vale College, the project kicked off in January 2024 and runs three days a week, on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays. Our chefs and volunteers prepare, cook, and package the meals for the charities and community groups taking part in the trial. Service users can take the meals home to reheat and enjoy or the meals are served hot at the charities and community groups. Lucas and Stef, our chefs, are experienced and enthusiastic teachers who ensure that volunteers can develop their culinary skills.

So far, volunteers have devoted more than 145 hours to preparing, chopping, dicing, peeling, and cooking, resulting in over 4,300 meals for distribution. Feedback from recipients of the RKW meals has been overwhelmingly positive. Judith Climer, representing the Michael Climer Legacy Fund at Holy Trinity, has praised the project’s progress:

“The FareShare project is another excellent way to encourage the use of fresh ingredients and appreciate the advantages over processed food choices.”

“The packaging is excellent. Environmentally friendly and degradable but at the same time reusable. This was quite a surprise comment which I heard often. The nature of the packaging encourages people to wash it and reuse it several times.”

The meals are made using high-quality ingredients and are nutritionally balanced, providing two of the recommended five servings of fruit and vegetables per day. They’re designed to be accessible and healthy, aiming to encourage individuals to explore new flavours in a cost-effective and convenient way. Despite our best efforts, the surplus we receive doesn’t always include all the necessary ingredients for our meals. Food businesses across Wales have kindly chosen to support us to ensure the sustainability of projects like Redistribution Kitchen Wales, we need a greater supply of food.

Currently, our warehouse stocks are low, making it hard to get enough food to the community groups and charities we serve. To meet current demand, we need an additional 60 tonnes of surplus food every month, more if we are to support any of the 176 community groups on our waitlist.

If you’re in the food industry or own a food business, we encourage you to donate your surplus produce to FareShare Cymru. Through our Surplus with Purpose fund, you can donate without incurring any extra costs; we cover everything from labour to packaging to transport. For more information on the fund, please contact us at swp@fareshare.cymru Your support can significantly improve our efforts to address food insecurity in Wales and reduce the impact of food waste on our environment.

Producing premium Welsh Gins, Vodka and Rum since 2018. Coming soon, single malt Welsh Whisky. Find out more about our journey, and shop online or visit us at the Distillery at Tanygroes Monday - Saturday 9-5

Jam Today

Welsh jams and preserves reflect the pure welsh air and ground they were grown on, brimming with flavour, texture and colour. Jonno Mack highlights some of the best on offer on the market at the moment.

Radnor Preserves

Starting from a necessity to preserve freshly grown ingredients in a Welsh cottage without power (imagine that!) Radnor Preserves’ Joanna has now mastered her cra and provides artisan jams and preserves for the likes of BAFTA, the Tate Gallery, and far ung British Embassies.

Of particular note among their range is the HandCut Smoky Bourbon Marmalade, which won Gold at the 2020 World Marmalade Awards. Bursting with oranges, lemons, ruby red grapefruits, ltered and oak smoked water, Woodford Reserve Bourbon Whiskey, smoked paprika, and smoked sea salt, this powerful marmalade is gluten free and suitable for both vegetarians and vegans alike.

radnorpreserves.com

Penylan Preserves

With all ingredients locally grown and sourced – as well as being chopped and stirred by hand –Clare Williams’ range of 25 (and counting) jams, marmalades, chutneys, and preserves come from Cardi with love.

Penylan’s ree Fruit Marmalade was a Gold award winner at the 2020 World Marmalade Championships. A delightfully simple recipe consisting of just sugar, grapefruit, oranges, lemons, water, and pectin powder, Clare testi es that the ree Fruit is: “A lovely way to wake up, the marmalade is sweet but zingy. One of my favourites, and a favourite with many of my returning customers.

penylanpreserves.co.uk

Pen y Bryn

In the 1930s, a swarm of bees set upon a plum tree near the Edwards family farmhouse – kickstarting a beekeeping tradition that has passed down the generations to this day. is family duty eventually fell to Carys aged 12 and now with years of experience behind her, Pen y Bryn is home to many a nectar of the honey gods.

2020 marked a move to a facility with British Retail Consortium accreditation, with Carys pioneering entirely unique experiments of the honey kind. In spite of the obvious problems posed to much of the industry that particular year, it nevertheless proved a fruitful one for Pen y Bryn – with their intriguing Honey Marmalade concoction taking home a Great Taste award! An unusual balancing of avours that simply must be tasted to be believed.

penybrynhoney.com

Celtic Preserves

In the shadow of the Brecon Beacons in Carmarthenshire, Celtic Preserves are taking the Welsh jams, chutneys, marmalades, sauces, and mustards scene to bold new heights. A balance of traditional recipes with a air for new ideas has meant that Celtic Preserves is a real up-and-coming name to keep stock of in your cupboard.

With summer fast approaching here in Wales, one tantalising pick from Celtic Preserves’ colourful portfolio is the Strawberry & Prosecco Jam. Dreamt up to balance the indulgent dryness of everyone’s favourite party starter, with the delectable sweetness of locally sourced berries – this is a favourite of the warmer months so be sure to proactively procure a few jars if you want to join the inquisitive!

celticpreserves.co.uk

Welsh Lady

Almost 60 years ago, Dio and Marion Jones set about founding Welsh Lady Preserves in Pwllheli, North Wales. Fast forward to the present day and Welsh Lady is now a second and third generation-run establishment, thanks to John Jones, his wife Carol, and their daughter Hannah. ey’re proud of using traditional methods, including cooking in copperbottomed open boiling pans for an authentically homemade taste to their o erings.

In those almost six decades, Welsh Lady has grown accustomed to being the belle of the ball – including being crowned Supreme Champion twice at the Great Taste Awards. One of these winners was the Apple & Cinnamon Curd, with Welsh Lady recommending a taste on “freshly baked bread, toast or wa es” or “mixed with yoghurt and topped with fresh berries for a quick and delicious dessert”.

welshladypreserves.com

Calon Lân

Handmade in North Wales’ Pwllheli on the Llŷn in small batches, Calon Lân’s range of preserves are all cra ed according to traditional recipes. eir selfprofessed aim is to “create the homemade eating experience” and it’s one that we think they’ve perfected for all who have the pleasure of tasting their o erings!

Our pick of the bunch is the Raspberry Preserve, a delectably simple spread made from just four ingredients (Sugar, Raspberries, Fruit Pectin, and Citric Acid). You can start your day with a smile knowing you’re indulging in locally sourced Welsh raspberries for a bright and summery way to start your day in these warmer months (or even a tasty snack later on)!

madryn.co.uk

Farmers Food at Home

When Anne-Marie Harries started selling jars of homemade jams, chutneys, and preserves over the counter of her family pub, she couldn’t have imagined the journey that would eventually wind up with the founding of Farmers Food at Home. A er that rst batch of jars sold out, the hobby became the passion project it is today. e business has gone from strength to strength, and in recent years Anne-Marie has opened a ourishing farm shop, e Paddock.

One of the highlights from their impressive portfolio is their 2018 Great Taste award winning Rhubarb and Ginger Jam. Perhaps a richer and more complex combination than others featured here, you can place full faith in the tanginess of the Ginger to wake you up in the morning!

farmersfoodathome.co.uk

Pantri Swswen

Lizzie Jones began her lifelong love of food at an early age watching, helping, and cooking with her family in their farmhouse kitchen nestled beneath Cordon Hill in Central Wales. In the early 1980s, she started experimenting with all manner of preserves and selling these locally. A er a stint in Cambridgeshire, she returned to the Welsh Hills with her husband and young family and reignited her passion for preserving and baking by forming Pantri Swswen in 2012.

Winning Silver at the 2016 Marmalade Awards, Pantri Swswen’s Seville Orange and Welsh Cider Marmalade is another combination e ort that deserves a place on your cupboard shelf these summer months. Traditionally chunky cut Seville oranges are complemented by a Maldwyn Dry Cider, sourced locally from a farmhouse supplier in the nearby Mid Wales village of Berriew.

pantriswswen.co.uk

Little Grandma’s Kitchen

As the name suggests, Little Grandma’s Kitchen takes inspiration from the matriarchs of a typical Welsh homestead – with Eliza Whitcher’s original recipe book passed down to the titular Lilian Ruth Compton and onto the present generations of the family.

e treasured family secrets of the Kitchen are perhaps best exempli ed by the Lemon Curd, made from an original recipe passed down from Aunt E e (o cially Ethel Mary Whitcher Compton). Aunt E e’s recipe has stood the test of time, resulting in “a rich, creamy luxury Curd, great on toast, in cakes, topping for ice cream, drizzled into plain yoghurt” or even if you’re feeling mischievous “straight o the spoon”.

littlegrandmaskitchen.co.uk

The Preservation Society

Like so many other family businesses highlighted here e Preservation Society’s Angharad grew up a farmer’s daughter in the Welsh Valleys making preserves with her Mum and Grandmother. ere’s a real emphasis on local seasonal ingredients from the Wye Valley at e Preservation Society, including a dedicated network of “Swap Croppers” like Paul Gowen – who provides Lord Lambourne apples from a tree his dad planted 50 years ago.

A breast cancer diagnosis in December 2014 didn’t stop Angharad on her journey with e Preservation Society, using her platform as a message of hope through the Blissfully Blackcurrant Jam. A 2016 and 2020 Great Taste award winner, money from every jar sold is donated to the Velindre Cancer Centre in Cardi – with Angharad raising over £14,000 and counting so far.

thepreservationsociety.co.uk

A fierytribute to WalesBrecon CarregGinger Ale !

GI food and drink: Wales has all the right ingredients

In 1997, when Alison and David Lea-Wilson left a saucepan of seawater boiling on their Aga they could never have guessed how this most basic of kitchen chores would transform their lives.

“As the salt crystals started to form, we knew we’d struck culinary gold,” the Anglesey-based couple, whose family business is one of the Welsh food and drink industry’s biggest success stories, recall.

Fast forward a quarter of a century and Halen Môn / Anglesey Sea Salt is enjoyed by chefs and food lovers alike. The product is among a growing list from Wales to attain coveted GI status that enables consumers to seek them out around the world.

‘Geographical Indication’ is not a term that rolls easily off the tongue but can make a world of difference to sharing our pride in the best of Welsh food and drink. And when it comes to promoting the distinctive quality, authenticity and heritage of its natural place of origin, Wales is on the top shelf.

The designation for Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographic Indication (PGI) are both geographically linked, with the product having characteristics linked to the area where it is produced. PDO status means all preparation, processes and production takes place in the area whereas PGI status means some elements can be completed elsewhere.

For example, although PGI Welsh beef is born and reared in Wales, it can be slaughtered further afield as long as it is in a Hybu Cig Cymru / Meat Promotion Wales PGI approved abattoir.

Committed

Welsh Government is committed to expanding the range of Welsh food and drink with the GI quality mark, and actively encourages and supports GI applications from all sub-sectors in Wales. Today there are 20 products on the Welsh ‘A-list’ compared with just 93 in the whole of the UK. From Halen Môn / Anglesey Sea Salt to Carmarthen Ham, and from Traditional Welsh Caerphilly cheese to PGI Welsh Lamb and PGI Welsh Beef, with Welsh Laverbread, Welsh Wine and more, there is a veritable feast of Welsh products proudly protected by one of the most authentic badges in the industry.

The UK’s GI panel was created when the UK left the EU. DEFRA chairs the scrutiny panel (consisting of experts within certain areas) which meet to discuss and review GI applications. The Secretary of State then considers their recommendations before a threemonth consultation is dispatched to all interested stakeholders.

And what is immediately apparent is just how well Wales has performed in comparison to the rest of the UK through its support and promotions of GI applications. Blessed with both outstanding produce and passionate producers, we truly are the envy of the other devolved nations.

Since 2009, the number of products acquiring PDO/ PGI status has risen steadily. As the Welsh GI ‘family’ has grown more producers can identify the potential value GI status can bring to their product.

GIs are not just about products being made in Wales. There has to be a link to the area, which can include geographical, historical and human factors. In addition, to meet GI criteria the product has to be a distinctive product and the name being protected has to be in the commercial marketplace.

One of the initial aims of the GI scheme was to enhance the rural community and protect the diversity of agricultural products so consumers would not be misled with cheaper imitations.

There is correlation between PGIs and PDOs and quality – the GI schemes were originally introduced as ‘quality schemes’, after all. The ethos of the scheme is in its inclusivity. And it is the product which receives the GI status, not the producer.

Natural beauty

As to why Wales is home to such outstanding and unique products, then look no further than our rich natural landscape. Our geographical features take some beating plus there is an abundance of natural beauty, minerals in the soil and heavy rainfall and an extensive coastline.

That essential Welsh Government support includes promotion and marketing. Several events are organised to showcase products alongside the Culinary Association of Wales, while business development reviews focus on those companies capable of scaling up and growing footfall. In addition, tool kits are supplied for chefs and discussions held on the challenges faced.

The over-riding goal is to drive recognition of the GI programme while at the same time encouraging buyers and consumers to seek out GI logos and buy them.

The message is that food, drink and agricultural

products with a geographical connection and/or made using traditional methods can be registered and protected. GI protection guarantees a product’s characteristics or reputation, authenticity and origin, therefore safeguarding it against misuse or imitation.

To apply for PDO and PGI status, producers must complete a Product Specification, this includes citing description of the product, production methods, proof of origin, and that all-important link to the geographical location.

For Huw Irranca-Davies, the Welsh Government’s Cabinet Secretary for Climate Change and Rural Affairs, the benefits of the scheme are clear, as are the implications of Wales’ high number of producers with PGI or PDO products.

“Having a means of guaranteeing the provenance, heritage and quality of food and drink products that are uniquely Welsh is of vital importance to our food economy. This is what PGI/PDO status does. It also makes it so much easier for consumers, at home and beyond our borders, to know they are buying the very best food and drink.

“It is great to see so many Welsh producers participating whole-heartedly in the PGI/PDO scheme and attaining this gold-standard of quality. Not only does it demonstrate the buoyancy of the sector, but it points to the tremendous natural bounty of Wales and the dedication and skill that our producers bring to putting food on our table.”

So, what exactly did Welsh producers have to do to make the A-list? And what benefits has GI status given their companies?

Halen Môn / Anglesey Sea Salt PDO

Barely before the water in that saucepan had cooled, Alison and David Lea-Wilson had started supplying Halen Môn / Anglesey Sea Salt to Swains, their local butchers.

Thousands of customers now consider it the best salt for cooking – it was served at the 2012 London Olympics, royal weddings and political summits and is a key ingredient in Green & Blacks chocolate as well as Piper’s Crisps. Even former US President Barack Obama is a fan!

And brand director Jess Lea-Wilson has no doubt about the value of the company’s PDO status which they have enjoyed for the past decade. “We are the only British sea salt company who has such an accreditation and that makes us stand out from the crowd,” she says.

“The PDO really shows we are doing things properly and that the way we make our sea salt is genuine and protected. During the summer we run regular behindthe-scenes tours so people from all over the world can come and see how the product is made.”

And Jess does not hesitate when asked how Halen Môn / Anglesey Sea Salt achieved its coveted PDO accolade. “We are trying our level best to do things properly,” she says.

Traditional Welsh Caerffili cheese PGI

“Passion, tradition and love.”

These, according to Susan Fiander-Woodhouse, whose Blaenafon Cheddar cheese Company, in partnership with fellow producers, Caws Teifi and Caws Cenarth, has attained PGI status for Traditional Welsh Caerphilly cheese, are the key ingredients in securing the prestigious mark.

“It signifies we have traditional products, a long history and good quality foods here in Wales,” she says.

“Such products deserve protection – a PGI is one of the top worldwide awards of recognition and we are producing one of the world’s most expensive cheeses because of it.”

She enjoys relating her experience during a recent visit to Wookey Hole in Somerset where a resident

cheesemaker proudly revealed one of their products would fetch £500 per 25kg in Harrods.

“I told him a cheese we were producing would cost £2,500 for the same amount – or 100 grams for a tenner,” she chuckles.

“Getting PGI status was quite easy because when I did my training up in Cheshire thirty years ago Caerphilly cheese was part of our examination thesis. I hadn’t worked with it in all that time, but a couple of years ago decided to go back to my roots.”

Success at the 2022 Royal Welsh Show duly paved the way for PGI status. “Such an award preserves the product,” she says. “There are so few companies making Caerphilly in the traditional way that without us production would die out.

“Cheese lovers who come to us know they are savouring an authentic product. You’re talking history, quality and a simply orgasmic taste!”

Welsh Laverbread PDO

Jonathan Williams, whose Pembrokeshire Beach Food company is renowned for its Welsh Laverbread, believes that a great PGI/PDO product tells a story. “It tells us our culture, our history and the people,” he explains. “PGI/PDO status is the pinnacle of what food represents to that community.

“Our PDO status was reviewed by environmental health officers who checked that our traceability was 100 per cent accurate and our processes were 100 per cent in line with the traditional way of making the product. The benefits are having someone from outside coming in and providing a stamp of approval.

“Why should consumers seek out companies such as ourselves? Because the stamp requires 100 per cent authenticity and quality – any buyer, be it trade or consumer, are purchasing part of a tradition and in doing so helping that tradition to stay alive.”

Welsh Regional wine (PGI) and Welsh wine (PDO)

Four Welsh vineyards currently form the basis for Welsh Wine’s PGI status – Glyndwr, Llaethliw, Velfrey and White Castle. The Welsh Wines produced by White Castle can increasingly be found on tables around the world. Robb Merchant, who set up the vineyard in May 2009 is in no doubt that this is largely due to the Welsh Wine’s PGI /PDO status, coupled with support from the Welsh Government.

“First and foremost, our wine is of a good standard and excellent quality,” he says. “It’s a unique brand and as far as I’m concerned GI status is helping to put our products on more tables as well as providing a powerful marketing tool that boosts consumer confidence.

“After 15 years in the wine industry we are regarded as one of the top producers in Wales and a lot of that has to be down to PGI/PDO status which is an acclaimed seal of approval.”

PGI Welsh Beef & PGI Welsh Lamb

The PGI stamp signifies that PGI Welsh Lamb and Welsh Beef is different and has special characteristics unique to Wales that cannot be replicated anywhere else.

“Welsh farmers have known for generations that if you look after the environment, the environment will look after you,” says Anne Dunn, of Hybu Cig Cymru – Meat Promotion Wales. “That’s the secret behind centuries of sustainable farming practices that have made Wales a producer of high-quality lamb and beef.” With high standards of animal husbandry and pasture land management, family-run farms have helped preserve this unique landscape for generations and are one of the reasons Welsh Lamb and Welsh Beef have achieved PGI status from the European Commission –since 2003 and 2002 respectively.

“Our lambs and cattle, which are all born in Wales, are tagged and logged from birth so that they can be identified as belonging to a specific farm and traced at every stage of the production process,” says Anne.

“Only approved, regularly inspected abattoirs can prepare the meat. Quality is at the heart of everything they do.”

Carmarthen Ham PGI

“The recipe of Carmarthen Ham has been handed down from generation to generation, the family legend being that when the Romans came to Wales and settled in Carmarthen, they stole the recipe and returned to Italy, renaming it Parma Ham!” Well, this is the story Matthew Rees never tires of relating.

“A great PGI/PDO product is one that embodies the rich heritage and traditional craftsmanship of its region,” he explains. “For Wales, these certifications not only signify quality but also serve as ambassadors of our culinary heritage and the pride we take in our local produce.

“We earned PGI status after an eight-year journey involving collaboration between our team—my mother, Ann Rees, officials from Welsh Government, in Westminster and Brussels. Despite facing uncertainty before the Brexit vote, we secured this status in 2016.

“The benefits have been significant. We enjoy increased recognition and support from Welsh Government and the PGI logo on our packaging enhances our credibility, signalling authenticity and quality. Legally our product is protected from imitation, providing peace of mind.”

Pembrokeshire Rock Oysters and Pembrokeshire Native Oysters

Andy Woolmer, who founded Pembrokeshire Atlantic Edge Oysters in 2019, explains why the company are currently applying for GI status for Pembrokeshire Native Oysters and for Pembrokeshire Rock Oysters. “For a small business like ourselves with quite a niche market and strong geographic link it’s a no-brainer,” he says.

“Pembrokeshire oysters have always come from the Cleddau estuary, so we were always going to be a very small producer. We therefore see GI status as a means

to differentiate from competitors while also adding to the value of our product.

“A buyer can come across cheap oysters from all over the country, but GI status sets you apart from others. Oysters are like wines – they taste different according to where they come from in the UK. The flavour of the local sea defines their characteristics.”

Single Malt Welsh Whisky PGI

Penderyn, Aber Falls, Da Mhile, Coles and In the Welsh Wind attained PGI status for Welsh whisky in 2023. Award-winning Ceredigion distillery, In the Welsh Wind, launched their first whisky in April; their inaugural Single Malt Welsh Whisky described as being ‘a tribute to Welsh craftsmanship and heritage with an ‘In the Welsh Wind’ twist’.

“A PGI product should be something that starts conversations,” says Sally Sellwood, of ITWW. “A product that represents the area it is from in a way that people from that area will recognise and be proud to champion.

“As well as adhering to the relevant PGI standard, whatever it is will taste and look incredible and get people really excited.

“We worked with the other whisky-producing distilleries in Wales to agree a set of standards that a Single Malt Welsh Whisky should meet. As we were essentially creating the PGI standard from scratch it was a case of looking at what we all do and where the bar needed to be to ensure the PGI would earmark a product of exceptional quality.

“So why seek us out? At the end of the day, you’re buying from a business that cares about its products and the local community too and investing in local production to create something that carries that geographical indicator.

“At In the Welsh Wind, we are going beyond even the standards of the Single Malt Welsh Whisky PGI to produce a Welsh whisky that is made from Welsh barley grown within five miles of the distillery, and malted on-site, rather than in one of the commercial malting houses outside of Wales.”

Pembrokeshire Earlies PGI & Welsh Leeks PGI

Pembrokeshire-based Puffin Produce saw their celebrated Pembrokeshire Earlies potatoes gain PGI status as far back as 2013, with their Welsh Leeks following nine years later.

“A PGI product will encompass authenticity and integrity and the certification is proof that one if not all stages are intrinsically linked to a particular geographical area,” says Puffin’s Sarah-Jane Sutton. “The product that has been grown in that region will have been grown to the highest standard, in order to meet the PGI specification.

“As we’ve seen with the success of Pembrokeshire Earlies, protected geographical certification can be an important boost for growers’ businesses and a clear badge for consumers who are increasingly seeking out products with a clear and unique provenance.

“We are incredibly proud to be able to grow Welsh Leeks and Pembrokeshire Earlies, and the PGI status is a hugely important accolade to promote the quality and heritage behind these majestic crops.

“The PGI certification assures full traceability, whilst taking measures to improve overall quality through recognising the origin and unique qualities of a product.”

Clear benefits

It is obvious from producers involved in the scheme that not only does the mark carry prestige and authenticity, but it also increases customer confidence, as well as a product’s marketability. Does your business have what it takes to join this A-team of GI products? If so, the Welsh Government provides expert advice on how to qualify and apply for a place in this prestigious line-up of original Welsh food and drink. For information about applying for a UKGI or protected status please contact UKGI.Wales@gov.wales

The message is clear. For producers, GI status puts businesses ahead of the pack. For consumers, GI is an excellent indicator of quality, provenance and heritage that translates to a much better product to put on the table and a recipe for Welsh success.

This is Food and Drink. This is Wales.

We know that when we look after our land, seas and sky, it looks after us. Working with nature, working for nature pays back in deeper flavours. The best natural ingredients nurtured, grown, crafted and shared. Something special for the senses. By passionate people, for passionate people.

The Perfect

As we now welcome warmer temperatures and lighter days, some of you might also celebrate Beltane, which is one of the four main Celtic seasonal festivals, and marks the beginning of Summer. Also known as Calan Mai here in Wales, after a cold and barren winter, the community would gather to dance, sing, feast and light bonfires to celebrate the coming of warmth, abundance and light.

Someone who knows these ancient holidays and traditions like the back of her hand is owner and creator of Welsh Witch, Jade Garston. The Wild Moon Distillery sits on the outskirts of Wrexham, where the unique and authentic spirits are distilled. Inspired by the Celtic holidays throughout the year, Welsh Witch has distilled a spirit to celebrate each occasion.

From a delicate floral Ostara gin to celebrate the “welcoming whispers of spring”, to a sumptuous Yuletide chocolate rum to devour in front of a roaring winter fire, there are 8 spirits to choose from inspired by the Celtic Wheel of the Year, alongside crowd favourites, the signature Gin and Rum.

Jade’s business came into fruition in 2019, when she began with creating a signature gin and a spiced rum, and although she’d initially intended on it being a sideline business alongside teaching, Covid-19 changed the trajectory on that path.

“No one knew what Covid was, or what that time was going to look like, but I had just attended my first trade show before the country went into lockdown and the feedback we had was incredible.” She said,

“Considering I’d gone in blind with no previous exposure of my product, the reaction to Welsh Witch was very positive and encouraging. People seemed to be curious about the brand, including the labelling and the story I had to tell. From then on I knew that I needed to be the face of the brand as well as the creator, especially as I believe so strongly in authenticity and I love chatting to different people and sharing my view on life.”

A person with endless passion for Wales and living authentically to her personal goals and values, visiting Jade at the Wild Moon distillery confirmed the love and care that goes into making each and every bottle.

Potion

Using mostly natural ingredients and distilling with pure Welsh water that’s been charged by the moon, the spirits are all hand-crafted and waxed sealed to add to the unique branding of the products.

“I’ll regularly play music to get the energy in the right place. I believe in good energy, and I love working that energy when in production. Love has got to go into it.”

“I’m a big believer in the idea that if it’s meant for me, the Universe will give me opportunities for a reason, and so I take each one and do what I need to do. Like the name, Welsh Witch, for example.

Mum and I were driving through Bwlchgwyn one day, and I’d been thinking about what to call my new venture. The live version of Fleetwood Mac’s Rhiannon came on the radio, and I hear Stevie Nicks say ‘this song is about a Welsh Witch’, and I thought, ‘that’s it! That’s me!’ It wasn’t just about the fact that I liked the name, it was also the fact that I’m Welsh, and a Witch. It’s about the story I can tell around my product, and since then it’s just grown and grown.”

Of course, life as a business owner is never without its challenges, as Jade found out in April of 2020 when Rob McElhenney and Ryan Reynolds bought Wrexham Town FC, and as a part of their promotion and sponsor, they sent Ryan’s Aviation gin to local bars.

“I did hit a stumbling block after launching my two core products of rum and gin a few months prior. Trying to get my name out there, outside of my own circle, was hard enough without having to compete with Ryan’s gin. That aside, what he and Rob have done for the town is incredible and amazing to see! Maybe one day I will be on the same level to compete with his gin!”

By May of 2021, and ever the entrepreneur, Jade knew she wanted to create something different. Having seen a rise in popularity of pink gin, she decided to bring out a limited edition spirit to celebrate turning 30, as well as the celtic festival of Beltane, which both are celebrated on 1st May.

“The story then developed from there, and people started asking if I would introduce spirits for the other holidays. We ended 2023 with a Lammas Vodka, and Mabon, Samhain and Yuletide Rums, which completed our Celtic wheel of the year.”

Of course SEO and sales are important to Jade as a business owner, “but I also feel it’s really important to be genuine throughout.” She said,

“It’s all well and good using these traditions and Celtic holidays to promote my brand, but I also am truly passionate about living a holistic lifestyle and being a Witch. This is one of the reasons I have a blog on the website, where I talk about anything from the things I practise as a Witch, to educational pieces on Welsh history. We have so much to draw upon as Welsh people, which goes hand in hand with the ancient traditions of the Celts.”

As a Welsh Witch, using snippets of the Welsh language is also important to Jade.

“We have our own amazing language, and I want to champion it, which is why I include Welsh words here and there on my website, even for those who don’t speak it - it will peak their interest. I have so many orders from England, from people who either have family here or used to holiday in Wales, so the magic of Wales does extend further afield too!”

In March, Welsh Witch was given the opportunity to exhibit at the Northern Restaurant and Bar in Manchester by the Food and Drinks Wales project, Cywain, which is funded by the Welsh Government.

“I am so grateful to Cywain for the opportunity to attend the Northern Bar and Restaurant this year. Along with the location of the stand, the exposure was great and being able to speak to a high calibre of attendees was brilliant. People were intrigued by my set-up, I’d decided to bring along a cauldron where I added an incense stick inside, and that stopped people in their tracks and got the conversations flowing.

Being there with Charlotte and Louise [Cywain Growth Managers] alone was invaluable, and exhibiting alongside other producers who were all at different stages in their journey to me was so helpful.

Chilly Cow, Dewkes Dog Snacks and Do Goodly Dips all were lovely and so willing to chat and give advice. That’s another reason why I’m so glad to be a client of Cywain’s - the networking opportunities are second to none.”

With a thirst for knowledge and growth, Jade recently attended Cywain’s workshops at the beginning of the year, which are available for all Cywain clients.

“I recently attended the Getting Awards Ready workshop in Bodnant, and as well as being informative, it’s a great way to meet new people. You get support from the courses, but you also gain invaluable support and knowledge from other producers who attend, too.

I know I’m only scratching the surface with the resources available to me, with things like the Cywain Community I haven’t even tapped into yet!

It’s reassuring to know that Charlotte is just on the other side of the phone if I need any advice. Being a client with Cywain has opened so many doors for me, I would definitely struggle to attend these big trade shows without them, and I know other countries don’t get the same support!”

Jade has recently been nominated for the Rising Star Award at the Welsh Food and Drink Awards, which are held at the end of May.

“I’m over the moon!” She said “It’s such a prestigious award, and there are some amazing food and drink companies out there on the list, so the fact I’m included in that is very exciting”

“It’s going to be such a fun experience to go down to Swansea, and even if I don’t win it’ll be a great opportunity to network and meet other producers. It would mean a lot to me to win a Welsh award though,

as I have won a few others such as the Great Taste, Global Spirit Masters and International Wine and Spirits awards, but a Welsh one would be extra special.”

It sounds as if there are a lot of exciting things on the horizon for Jade and Welsh Witch, with short term and long term projects in the pipeline.

“I’d love to have a Head Office of my own, where I can also offer a space for all under one roof. Firstly, of course my distillery, but also office space for people to work from, a community space with events such as guided meditation, and a bar in the evenings with some chilled out music, creating magical memories with likeminded people. I have a genuine interest in people and want them to feel at home, so it would be wonderful to create a space like this, under one roof.

I get it from my family, who have always loved having a good time, and I’d love to create a welcoming scene and nice place for people to chill. We’ve always loved making memories, that morning-after-the-nightbefore vibe where everyone shares their stories, and when they next take a sip of one of my products, those happy memories are sure to come back.”

To taste the magic for yourself, visit www.wild-moon. co.uk, or follow Welsh Witch’s journey on Instagram @ welshwitch_craftspirits where the story has only merely begun...

Welsh Witch products: WELSH WITCH

- DRY

WELSH GIN

The Welsh Witch Original Dry Gin is a refreshingly crisp multiple award-winning botanical gin rooted in North Wales folklore.

The Signature Dry Gin was the first Welsh Witch spirit to launch and is a decadently refreshing trailblazer in botanical gins. Since its launch in 2020, it has received accolades of admiration; having won Silver Awards in both the London Spirits & International Wine and Spirits competitions respectively.

A pioneer of Welsh spirits, this multi-dimensional gin is classic yet refined. It is a juniper forward gin with a range of botanicals, bringing intense flavours and refreshing bursts of textures, stimulating the palate. Our Welsh Witch Dry Gin features invigorating notes of locally foraged gorse flower, coriander seed and bitter orange an dis perfect served with Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic.

The gin completes its journey with a hint of spice, bringing an edge, never to overpower, to the full bodied flavours. Not forgetting the remarkable viscosity and signature silkiness, each bottle is then hand-corked, wax sealed, and finessed with magic.

WELSH WITCH – OSTARA VIOLET GIN

This floral Ostara Edition gin is a violet flavoured delight for any gin enthusiast.

Celebrating the welcome whispers of spring, the Ostara Edition Gin pays tribute to the Pagan holiday by adorning an abundance of violets in each sip –perfectly paired with lemonade or light tonic and a tangy wedge of lemon.

Inspired by Ostara, the maiden goddess awakening in the celebration of the arrival of spring and an expansive new energy. Our new Ostara gin takes inspiration from the spring flower violet for a more floral gin, bottled in our iconic apothecary style bottles which are hand-corked and wax sealed.

Welsh Witch is the world’s only distillery to be charged by the moon, we honour the power of nature and celebrate premium botanical flavours in our spirits.

WELSH WITCH –BELTANE FLORAL GIN

Made using reiki infused rose water, this Beltane edition Welsh Witch Gin honours the sweet and spice seen in Beltane fire rituals.

To celebrate the birthday of the Welsh Witch, we have crafted this gin inspired by all the elements and magic of Beltane.

The gin is sweet and floral celebrating summer and flowers, with our signature burst of refreshing citrus, finishing with a subtle hint of spice representing the fire in the Beltane rituals.

Using reiki infused rosewater, this magical tipple opens the heart and mind to the magic of the Beltane celebration; find yourself on an enchanting flavour adventure through the Welsh hills. Pair with Fever Tree Lemonade and garnish with summer berries and a cinnamon stick for the perfect tipple.

Each enchanting Welsh Witch Craft Spirit is bottled in small batches with adoration and care, a little piece of Celtic goddess in each sip.

WELSH WITCH - MABON RUM

Welsh Witch Mabon Rum celebrates the fruit harvest. Our smooth and silky sipping rum is infused with roasted apple.

Our Welsh Witch Rum Mabon brings to life the beauty of nature and the fruit harvest. This smooth and silky sipping rum infused with roasted apple, with a hint of the warm comforting flavour of an apple pie.

Inspired by the celebration of Mabon, a God of Welsh mythology – the Child of Light and the son of the Earth Mother Goddess. This is the Second Harvest, the Fruit Harvest and the Great Feast of Thanksgiving.

The apple is the symbol of the Fruit Harvest, featuring significantly in many sacred traditions. It is a symbol for life and immortality, for healing, renewal, regeneration and wholeness. It is associated with beauty, long life and restored youth.

WELSH WITCH - SAMHAIN RUM

Welsh Witch Samhain Rum celebrates the final harvest and the start of the Pagan calendar. This smooth and silky sipping rum is infused with caramelised pear, pumpkin and warm spices.

Samhain, or otherwise known as Halloween, is Celtic New Year’s Eve and the final harvest. It is one of the major festivals of the Wheel of the Year, for many Pagans the most important festival of all making our latest spirit in our drinks range a very special addition. We have created a rum centred around traditional rich, warming flavours to honour the turning of the wheel of the year beginning again. With it we raise a glass all those who have come before and for all that has been gifted to us during the year as we ask for guidance and to set intentions.

Caroline Sarll Veggie Cooking Tips for Ominvores

Gastronomically, we are a hybrid family: two vegetarians, one omnivore and one (cue ridiculous neologism) chickenarian. Could well be the title of a Richard Curtis lm. In reality, this domestic dynamic means we cook individually to a shouty soundtrack of “I told you mine would be ready soon”, then hurry-scurry to the table at (roughly) the same time. Divergent eating, convergent convo: it works quite well. I never cook any meat or sh and my husband never attempts my mains, which he invariably deems my “planty potches”.

Recently however, the omnivore, as in hapless hubby, has had to prepare all my meals. Won’t be a gorebore, but I’ve sustained a spiral, diaphyseal (aka really nasty) tibial fracture and have been on crutches for weeks. Poor dab, me. Poor dab, husband. It has been a bilateral challenge.

Phil (let’s give the beleaguered lackey a namecheck) has done an amazing job, producing lunches and dinners to reossify my shattered bone and nourish my dented soul. His roast spuds are legendary. Ditto his Spanish omelette. But for a man who once served me three consecutive courses from a junk mail lea et, all bran curl-based (even the quiche lling), he has had to learn a trick or two, as would I, should the boot ever be on the other foot (would be glad to get any boot on atm).

So, for any omni/carnivores suddenly thrust into the same position, here’s my thumbnail PIQQY (moi?) Guide to Being A De Plant Chef. Caveat, Caroline: you run the risk of post-publication starvation.

Presentation: like most meat-and-two-veggers, Phil plates up facial style - 2 (massive) eyes, as in blobs of spuds, a generous meaty nose, with a (rather mean) mouth of greens underneath. To me, a blend-in-thepan fan (as are, I’m guessing most veggies), this is just culinary blah. It looks dull and, worse still, literally re ects a sort of esh-guzzling separatism. When I ask for a winter salad of spinach, goats’ cheese, peppers, tomatoes, sweet potatoes and caramelised onion chutney, it’s delivered - but all in segregated blobs. Pretty please, meld, toss, fry, blitz, grill and – season eclectically! Garlic, miso, peanut butter (great in soups), oil and balsamic and, my personal favourite, fresh herbs - especially ginger.

Ingredients: obviously, I give Phil a list. But when the oxycodone induces Zen-like zonkedness, I hope he remembers the basics, beloved, I’m sure, by most vegetarians. As I’m an incorrigible advocate of mnemonics for mental acuity, Phil now prowls the aisles muttering VAPED under his breath: Veg, Accompaniments, Protein, Excite-me and Dairy. is ensures he returns with the required medley of vitamin-rich, rainbow fruit and veg, protein-power nuts, Quorn, tofu, pulses and my daily bone-boosting must-have – yoghurt. He’s learning to ladle the latter calcium/Vit D shot into soups, sauces and onto pretty much any pan-based concoction. Talking of pans, always separate the pantophagous (ha ha), posh word for omnivorous, from the veggie ones. Accompaniments - a meal without these is bubbleless Bolly. So, dollop on dips and chutneys - pair Black Mountain Preserves’ award-winning, nigella-twinkling Moroccan Marmalade (medina-magic on a spoon, with a tantalising taste that will last you till lights-out) with grilled halloumi, tofu or a tagine. e ExciteMe component spawns regular debates about our compatibility: who gets stoked over a jar of pitted olives? A bag of locally sourced, wonky, crossed- ngers carrots, yes. Better still, snacks and treats such as Jones o Gymru’s crutch-friendly crisps (easily carried whilst touch-toe trudging from kitchen to sofa). e avours are as deep as Bryn Terfel’s bass-baritone, the crunch like autumn leaves underfoot.

Quantities and Quality: no triple portions needed to “compensate” for the lack of esh. But don’t stint on the veg either - these are not just a tolerated side to us, but the lip-smacking limelight. Top-notch is therefore non-negotiable - verdant broccoli orets and crispy chlorophyll-waving spinach, that only wilts when meeting the oil.

Yin-yang variety: boldly baste stir-fried mango in satay sauce, pair grapes and cheese in salads, pile the pearl barley into piquant peppers and sauté sweet pots ‘n’ pineapple.

Et voila! And the upshot of this enforced culinary change chez nous? Phil, impressed by his burgeoning skills, is slowly turning exitarian – a welcome consolation for this unwelcome calamity. Time to ring Richard Curtis, I say.

Destination

Fab Food in Cardigan

There’s no doubt about it, Cardigan has got quite the vibe these days. An historic almost coastal town which was previously mainly associated with eisteddfodau and buttoned knitwear, the centre is bristling with quirky independent shops and is clearly making its own bid to be the culinary capital of West Wales. The location, set in productive countryside on the banks of a tidal river full of fish, are strong factors but there is also a young, experimental atmosphere in the place, distinctively Welsh but with a surfy undertow. It’s in the centre of a popular holiday area but doesn’t suffer from the sort of kiss me quick seasonality which blights lots of Welsh coastal towns: there is enough going on in Cardigan all year round to foster a varied food ecosystem.

First stop has to be Crwst, the buzzing café and deli which is serious without pretension. There’s a carefully crafted atmosphere: urban chic décor but Bwncath playing in the background. You order either via a QR code or at the counter, giving you an opportunity to browse the range of local products on sale, including their own range of caramels. With characteristic rooted flair, they have created a range flavoured with renowned Welsh spirits, such as Aber Falls whisky, Merlyn Cream liqueur or my favourite, Barti rum. Throw a slice of pineapple on the barbecue, add a dollop of good ice-cream and top with Barti Caramel and you have brought Barbados to your back garden. Crwst are, of course, bakers par excellence, with Torth y Wlad Sourdough and Brioche Doughnuts forming the basis of many of their menu choices.

My Ham Hock Benedict was well-balanced, not capsized by my rash decision to garnish it with an extra portion of Myrddin Heritage Chorizo, the earthy texture of which contrasted beautifully with the hollandaise. My 9-month-old companion feasted on sourdough toast and marmalade: the half slice he didn’t finish convinced me that the hype about Crwst baking is fully justified: this reminded me what the fuss is all about, flavourful, just aerated enough and redolent of patience and skill.

Next stop was 19 Below, a new arrival in Cardigan but established down the coast in Newport, where they have established a strong reputation, based on their Gelato, which uses the celebrated non-homogenised milk from the Carnigli Dairy. I had an affogato, which had both high-quality coffee and good ice-cream: my companion went for the lime and ginger gelato, which came highly recommended and did not disappoint: my stolen spoonful disabused me of my prejudice that, in terms of flavours, ‘or’ can be a more helpful word than ‘and,’ with sharpness and heat both finding their place.

Being too full to sample any of the Cardigan Bay Brownies but unable to resist the display, I took a few of Nerys Evans’ creations home. Nerys is just the sort of food entrepreneur a town needs to become a destination: with deep roots and an infectious belief in her delicious products, these are treats with innovative integrity. The cookie cups, dwelling in a tasty hinterland between cake and biscuit won particular plaudits from my friends: the one with a Rolo hidden inside made optimum use of different textures, doing all that a treat should do.

In a changing culinary environment, the High Streets of Wales have lost many of their butchers but as when mammals replaced dinosaurs, the smart survive. Dewi

Cardigan Bay Brownies

Dining

James have been providing excellent meat since the end of the War but have responded to changing lifestyles by adding to their ranges with real flair. Keeping faith with local produce whilst meeting the desire for novelty delivers, for example Lamb and Leek or Beef and Garlic Sausages and a new range of pre-packed, quality sausages, Cardi Bay Bangers, whilst Welsh tradition is made convenient with their ready to heat Cawl.

As is perhaps to be expected in a town reputed to be full of young, hip entrepreneurs, there is a lot of pizza to be had in Cardigan. Arguably the most iconic pizza place is the Pizza Tipi which does what it says on the tin in a splendid riverside location. Though it is particularly glorious in good weather, there is enclosed space with a firepit too.

For a distinctive Italian option, the pizza’s also good at Mannucci’s, where the menu is based on the recipes of Nonno Amos, grandfather of the proprietor. There are no gimmicks here but quality and tradition. Word on the street is that dishes based on ragu are superb but for something less hearty, their pizzas remind us that the Mediterranean has always been a vortex of culinary influences. The Oliviera Speziata is laden with black olives and nduja but they also supply a naked pizza base with balsamic tomatoes, basil and mozzarella, the prefect canvas on which to create.

As the days lengthen and beaches beckon, the attraction of Tafell a Tan, the acclaimed pizza spot on the beach at Llangranog become ever more irresistible. Another local food champion, its founder Kate grew up in the beautiful village nine miles up the coast from Cardigan and, after travelling the world, she came home, generating a successful pop-up pizza business before developing a permanent site, converting her grandparents’ garage. Their colourful salad bowls are a temptation to virtue but a pizza branded ‘Moch Mawr’

or ‘Big Pig’ means there’s plenty of indulgence to be had.

Back in Cardigan, Yr Hen Printworks treads a careful line between ambition and affordability: you build your own meal from their range of small plates. Their attachment to local suppliers is deep-rooted, with proprietor Rachel coming from a farming family, whose aged Welsh Black beef features. Their seafood offer is reassuringly variable: local oysters and coraclecaught sewin feature when available. With the chef’s pedigree including the Grove at Narberth, Yn Hen Printworks typifies the unpretentious quality which is making Cardigan such a destination.

Final stop on the way home was the HQ of fabulous distillery, ‘In the Welsh Wind’, as their splendid cocktail bar, Bar 45, tucked away behind the Castle, wasn’t open that day. I’m hoping to catch one of their legendary ‘Supper Club’ evenings over the summer. We were very tempted to plan a Mixology Masterclass, but not sure how cocktails and babies mix, we opted for buying some of their acclaimed gin for home consumption. I’m sentimentally attached to their Premium Gin, not just because it reminds me of summer evenings in Newport but because the botanicals, orange, spices and currants soaked in tea, were inspired by the goods which used to be the staples of imports along this coast: one of the luminaries of this trade was my great great uncle, Captain Titus Jones. ‘In the Welsh Wind’ are serious about their spirits, about as far away from the fluorescent-coloured boozy Vimto liquid frequently described as gin in these benighted times. Their CaskAged Rum is only available in limited qualities, so act quickly to experience the sweet and woody flavour redolent of marshmallows toasting over a driftwood bonfire. They are soon to release the first ever entirely Welsh Single Malt Whiskey, from local grains: the drinkers of Wales cannot wait!

Pizza Tipi

Yr Hen Printworks

Bar 45

Business Profile – Nigel Lloyd from Castle Dairies

It’s been a rollercoaster, but Castle dairies is riding high

Can you tell us about the history of Castle dairies?

My dad joined Castle Dairies, which was set up by Lord MacPherson in 1966, as a lorry driver and quickly rose through the company to become general manager. In the late 80’s, after a management buyout he ran the company successfully, manufacturing zero fat cheese and dried milk powders, alongside a small butter packing operation.

The company went through a hard time as our export markets and EU subsidies changed in the late 1990s, That was when I joined, doing various jobs from cleaning to QC to production, learning from the ground up, to prove myself to everyone.

When did you take the reins?

When I was in my twenties, I was fortunate to spend time in some of the best dairies in the world visiting sites in New Zealand, Australia, Denmark, USA and Canada. Having that opportunity really helped form the ambition and vision I had for Castle Dairies. Although I did management studies with the Open University to prepare for a more senior role, it was in a moment of crisis that I became general manager. A fire in the factory. I put in place a radical change of strategy, dropped cheese making and dried milk, to concentrate on butter packing. The company began making a profit which was ploughed back in, upgrading equipment and developing the business. Having done my research I took another gamble making a major investment in new ‘cold mix’ technology that allowed us to go into spreadable butters with some assistance from the Welsh Assembly Government.

Investing in tough times changed the growth of the company. Now, we make a very high-quality spreadable butter for retailers’ own labels and we've got our brand. We’ve gone from making a tonne of product every month, to over 200 tonnes a week and featuring in the UK top 50 food and drink growth companies (as published by the Grocer Magazine recently).

What else has contributed to Castle Dairies’ success?

Our team. When we put the spread plant in, we didn't have the staff to make that a success. It's been a huge effort to put a really good team in place - they’re the ones that have driven the business forward and that's taken years. The most pleasing thing for me is seeing their capabilities develop. Turnover now is around the 55 million mark and we employ 120 plus people. In the early days, I never thought we would be able to develop the business to where we have. We've invested over £3m million in state-of-the-art equipment over the last few years, but you can have all that and still go wrong if you haven’t got the people with the right attitudes and skill sets.

And there’s the quality of our butters. We have a

traditional butter and speciality butters, but the main business is spreadable butter, including a lighter version. Butter is a very simple product but producing it is more complicated than you might think. Our spreadable is butter, rapeseed oil, water and some salt. A very simple recipe compared to margarines and other spreadables containing emulsifiers and stabilizers etc. The expertise is in the technical know-how needed to avoid damaging the ingredients. Our cold mix system doesn’t add any heat, so we retain all the natural flavours and don’t add nasties. There’s a lot of care and attention taken at each stage to make sure that the end product is perfect.

Our butters are only as good as the ingredients, and we’ve got great, long-standing relationships with our suppliers. Everything is either Welsh or UK – our own brand is 100% Welsh, and we are probably one of the main users of Welsh cream in Wales and it’s all processed on site through our own churning system.

What else sets Castle Dairies apart?

Our sense of responsibility. Environmentally, Cold Mix is less energy intensive than other processes. Over the last two years we’ve reduced energy consumption by 20% and plan to invest further in energy efficiency over the next few years. We’ve invested heavily in cutting effluent discharge which will facilitate future growth and are working towards a top to bottom ISO Environmental Standard called ISO 14001. We’re also working with other manufacturers to develop a greener technology.

Two percent of our profits go to charity and we have a panel of volunteers who decide where the money is spent. Our priorities are local charities, vulnerable families and children in particular. This is part of the DNA of the company.

What’s enabled you, personally, to guide the company through all the challenges?

The Open University course gave me confidence because it gave me a framework and structure. As a general rule of life I think facing challenges, further builds your confidence. I also enjoy solving problems and have built up quite a lot of technical knowledge, which comes in quite handy sometimes!

What next?

We’ve invested in a new churn - the newest in the UK, and one of the newest in Europe. A big investment both in equipment and in the team.

And we have a rebrand planned that aims to transition Castle Dairies, already very successful in Wales, into a national and eventually, international brand, flying the flag of Wales in terms of butters and spreads.

That really sets us up for a very bright future.

Hold the front page

Government to help with carbon reduction plans

120 Welsh food and drink businesses are being sought for a pilot project aimed at reducing carbon emissions. The project is intended to benefit businesses and the wider community and contribute towards the Government’s aim of achieving net zero emissions by 2050.

Businesses who are accepted onto the project will receive help with establishing a carbon footprint baseline for their operations and support to develop a carbon reduction plan. Plans will include measures like boosting energy efficiency, adopting renewable energy resources, and promoting sustainable practices to help combat climate change.

The food and drink industry is responsible for nearly 25 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions, according to a report by the World Resources Institute; and while the ecological footprint for Wales is marginally lower than the UK average, like other developed countries, it has a higher consumption rate than the global average.

Wrexham Lager Beer Co unveils new look

Brewed in Wales since 1882, the Wrexham Lager Beer Co is the oldest lager brewery in Great Britain, and has unveiled a major brand refresh. The new look comes at an exciting time for the award-winning brewer, with the launch of ‘Welcome to Wrexham’ on Disney+, which has put Wrexham in the spotlight and helped boost sales.

The new look has been designed to be in keeping with the modern beer market and features stronger and brighter colours and a premium black for the Export range. The branding reaffirms the Welsh provenance of the range and includes all marketing materials, including the new 440ml cans in both the Lager and Export ranges.

Recently appointed CEO and industry expert James Wright said: “The lager market in the UK is dominated by international beers, particularly European, and as a proudly Welsh lager produced by the oldest brewery in the UK, we believe the quality of our products and new identity can help to strengthen the UK’s offering.”

To find out more go to www.wrexhamlager.com

Meat from machines proposed for Tregaron

A Welsh abattoir owner, who until recently also ran a traditional family butcher’s shop in the Ceredigion market town of Tregaron, has applied for planning permission to sell meat from vending machines in the local cattle market. Abattoir Cig Oen Caron is seeking permission from Ceredigion County Council for two vending machines at the market, which it would stock daily with a range of meat for local people.

If the plans are approved, Rhys Evans believes the business will create three new jobs and create a dedicated space to sell local produce within the local community, which could compete with the supermarkets. This development comes at a time when many traditional butchers’ shops are being forced to close as a result of rising costs and decreasing household incomes. The application said there was local interest “in bringing the abattoir up to 21st century standards”.

Lamb prices soar as supply tightens and demand rises

Deadweight lamb prices have soared by more than 20 per cent this Spring, with increased consumer demand due to religious festivals and numbers of breeding flocks across Wales and the UK declining. Glesni Phillips, of Hybu Cig Cymru (Meat Promotion Wales), reveals that sheep meat exports from Wales were strong in 2023 and expects trading in 2024 to remain competitive. It is likely that the new Sustainable Farming Scheme (SFS), proposed by Welsh Government (WG), could also put further pressure on numbers.

A report commissioned by WG on the impact of the SFS suggested that it could cause livestock numbers in Wales to fall by up to 11 per cent, with a loss of more than 122,000 livestock units. The farming community continues to lobby Welsh Government about the impact of the scheme, which is due to be implemented in 2025, and will replace EU payments which were worth more than £300 million a year to Welsh farming.

A taste of Summer at Milford Haven Waterfront

Looking forward to some summer fun in west Wales this year? Why not head to Milford Waterfront’s bustling quayside, for a real mix of food and drink venues, and some great shops to potter and browse. One to visit is Trwffl, an exciting local producer of artisan chocolates and truffles – ideal for gifting or eating yourself! And for the ice cream afficionados,

there’s either The Scoop or Velluto Gelato to choose from, both of which make their own range of ice creams.

And if local seafood appeals, why not check out The Fish Plaice which prides itself on sourcing sustainable, quality fish, with highly skilled fishmongers on hand to provide advice, and the Welsh Lobster Co, a family run business which is perfect for sourcing shellfish – from lobsters to crabs to whelks to wild Welsh cockles and mussels.

The waterside location also plays host to Milford’s annual Beer Festival on Saturday, May 25th and a Street Food festival from August 9th to 11th, which will open from 11am till 10.30pm daily, featuring world foods, as well as a full bar.

To find out more go to www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk

It’s Royal Welsh Showtime 2024!

The pinnacle event in the British agricultural calendar, the Royal Welsh Show, will take place from July 22-25 at the showground in Builth Wells.

Each year the show attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors to the heart of Mid-Wales to celebrate the very best of Welsh and British agriculture. The Show is an action-packed four-day event of competitions, livestock, forestry, crafts, countryside sports, shopping, food and drink, a 12-hour programme of non-stop entertainment, attractions, displays and much more. New for 2024, there will be a Horticulture Village, to celebrate all aspects of horticulture in Wales and the Food Hall will once again be a hive of culinary activity, and the Welsh Food Village - named Gwledd / Feast - will feature an array of delicious food and drink options, along with a live music stage and seating for soaking up the atmosphere.

For more information, or to purchase your early bird tickets visit www.rwas.wales or www.cafc.cymru

Aber Falls aims for Net Zero

Award winning distillery Aber Falls in Gwynedd, now employs 25 local people, and is leading the way in working towards ‘net zero’.

Its product packaging is now fully recyclable, its visitor centre was built with sustainability in mind, and as well as offering Welsh produce on its menu, it also hosts markets throughout the year for local artisans. A borehole gives access to the water that runs from the Carneddau mountains to the Aber Falls waterfall, and almost all of Aber Falls’ distilling barley is sourced from a farm in Pembrokeshire. The spent grain left over from the mashing process is given to a local farmer for his cows, and liquid waste is recycled for use as a fertiliser and for anaerobic digestion. Air source heat pumps, solar panels, LED lighting and electric vehicles and car charging points are also just a few of the other measures being introduced to help the journey to Net Zero.

To find out more go to www.aberfallsdistillery.com

South Caernarfon Creameries on tour for St David’s Day

Wales’s leading dairy co-operative, South Caernarfon Creameries (SCC), was one of a handful of Welsh food businesses who celebrated St David’s Day by visiting the UK’s leading supermarkets to showcase their award winning butter and cheese.

As part of a Welsh Government promotion, the SCC team visited the head offices of Tesco, Morrisons, Asda and Sainsbury’s, to help spotlight Welsh produce and celebrate its rich tapestry of producers. In the space of a day the team travelled from Wales, to Hertfordshire, Yorkshire and London, meeting key decision makers at every stop.

It’s also been a time of celebration for the company back home at the creameries, as three of its employees this year retire with an impressive 117 years of service between them. Morgan Owen, Gwyn Jones and Peredur Williams leave with a string of lifelong friendships and fond memories of working with this farmer-led co-operative.

First single malt for In The Welsh Wind

Award-winning Ceredigion distillery, In the Welsh Wind, has this Spring released its first single malt whisky. Only 674 70cl bottles were made available, and the team anticipate that these will sell fast.

Crafted with care and dedication, the release is a tribute to Welsh craftsmanship and heritage. Distilled in a state of the art iStill, each bottle, at an RRP of £95, promises a distinctive flavour profile that captures the spirit of Welsh whisky.

“We are incredibly excited to share our first whisky with the world,” said Ellen Wakelam, Founder and Director of In the Welsh Wind distillery. “This release marks a significant milestone for us as we make our mark on the Welsh whisky industry.”

This first release precedes the distillery’s highly anticipated ‘green malt’ whisky, crafted from 100% Welsh grain sourced within 10 miles of the distillery. This liquid continues to mature in cask, with release currently scheduled for Autumn 2025.

The Old Point House, Angle

Rumoured to have been a haunt of pirates and smugglers and tucked down a bumpy lane hugging the shore of Angle Bay in the Cleddau estuary, Pembrokeshire, you’d struggle to find a more picturesque and atmospheric pub than the Old Point House. Rejuvenated by the team behind Barti Ddu and Pembrokeshire Seafood, it’s a quintessential rustic,

whitewashed, seafarers’ pub, replete with thick walls, oak beams and wood burners. It also has a relaxed, buzzing restaurant, earning a reputation for great seafood, upmarket takes on pub classics and some novel seaweed inspired dishes. Opening onto the Coastal path, with a garden overlooking the bay and served by award-winning Café Mor’s famous trailer (decamped from Freshwater West) it’s also the perfect spot to enjoy a drink and a bite on a balmy day.

We arrived early evening, too late for their own oyster festival but in time to see Lili the seal, frolicking in the shallows out front. Sitting in a window seat, we could appreciate the fine view over the bay as we sipped a perfect Tir & Mor Seaweed and Spice G & T and browsed the menu.

Having missed out on the festival, I plumped for a starter of oysters, harvested from the very bay we were admiring. Since the water here is a marine protected environment and amongst the cleanest and most nutrient rich in the UK, I had high hopes. I was not disappointed. With so many layers of delicate flavour, there’s no seafood that better captures the essence of the sea, akin to a fine wine’s ability to reflect its terroir. The accompanying seaweed pickle added a lovely zesty twist. B’s seaweed, chilli and garlic marinated olives proved to be an excellent take on a restaurant staple –top quality olives with the zing of chilli and garlic lifted by the seaweed’s salty brininess.

My main of oven roasted haddock was exemplary – so fresh, with a subtle nuttiness and a hint of the sea. Perfectly cooked and breaking into soft, moist flakes. The accompanying pickled fennel slaw, with its sweet aniseed flavour complemented but didn’t overshadow, and the seaweed chimichurri added extra umami depth. And chips. Oh, the chips. Triple cooked perfection. B’s Green-green-grass burger was OPH’s own imaginative and successful recipe for a veggie burger. A healthy, warming and delicious patty of black beans, onion and oats with a seaweed pesto.

B’s an expert on brownies, so there was some relief when she revealed her pud was a perfectly executed take. Great texture, a sumptuous blast of dark chocolate and a slight spicey, nutty flavour ticked all the boxes. My Barti Chocolate Pot was just as much a hit – literally, thanks to its delightful spiced rum kick and intense, smooth chocolate.

Yes, the food is great and justifies a trip in anyone’s book but, as important and what Jon and his team have created, is a pub, restaurant and garden with a convivial vibe, that celebrates an incredible seashore setting. OPH will appeal to a wide cross-section of people, from hipsters to retirees, from families to generation z’s, from seafood and meat lovers to vegans, and for those on a budget or those who have plenty. We will return.

www.theoldpointhouse.wales

Principality Stadium, Cardiff

Ah, the thrill of the Six Nations. And it doesn’t get much bigger than a game against mercurial France. Especially when you’re invited to eat in the Principality Stadium’s VIP hospitality area.

As part of the national stadium’s drive to support all things Welsh, Chef Ryan Jones (no, a different Ryan Jones – the ex-captain has not had a career change), is on a mission to showcase the very best in Welsh produce to the high-rollers and visiting dignitaries.

Ryan is no stranger to representing the best Wales has to offer, as a classically trained chef, who’s competed at the Welsh International Culinary Championships. And his starters lived up to expectations. The moist, shredded chicken terrine was deeply flavoured with dill, herbs and the subtle tang of salty capers – perfect to set taste-buds tingling. B’s Artichoke and baby carrots were perfectly cooked and full of delicate flavour, nicely counter-balanced by a deliciously sharp, sweet and fresh pickable carrot.

With the stadium filling and to a moving rendition of Calon Lân, our mains arrived. The slow cooked Welsh lamb sirloin was melt-in-the-mouth tender and encapsulated all that Welsh lamb should – bursting with rich fatty mellow flavour. And well matched to crunchy green beans, intense braised cabbage (all locally sourced, some from Splott no less) and luxuriously creamy Dauphinoise (Blas y Tir) potatoes. B’s deeply satisfyingly earthy, umami Mushroom terrine was a lovely departure from your average veggie option, demonstrating a considered and thoughtful approach for non-meat eaters.

A very grown-up ensemble dessert of apple and pear puree, chocolate ganache topped with praline, icecream and macaron was a gamut of pudding goodness and a wonderful way to finish the main meal, with contrasting textures and tastes – sweet, savoury, nutty, velvety rich chocolate, crunchy praline, creamy icecream. A masterpiece.

With a booming Marseillaise competing with Hymns and Arias, hopes were still high for a positive result at half time when cheese and biscuits arrived. An egalitarian selection of French, Scottish, English and Welsh, with stunning creamy blue Perl Las ably flying our flag. All accompanied by some excellent crackers from Brecon’s Cradoc’s and a rather nice port.

As our comperes, Jamie Roberts and Philippe SaintAndre, did their post-match analysis we tucked into a perfectly fluffy cheese souffle. Honourable mention also to the canapes. Trealy Farm charcuterie, a light morish salted cod canape, soft cheese and pretty, edible flowers and a savoury Arancini were all excellent.

Wales may have lost on the pitch but, thanks to Ryan, his team and some amazing Welsh produce, it was a big win in the kitchen.

Salt and pepper pork ribs

Prep time 30 mins

Cook time 2 hrs 30 mins

Serves 5+I

Ingredients

• 10-12 individual pork spare ribs

• 1 tsp coarse salt

• ½ tsp coarse black pepper

• ½ tsp Szechuan peppercorns

• 2 tbsp oil

• 1 green chilli, finely sliced

• 4 spring onions, finely sliced

• ½ tsp ginger, finely sliced

• 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced

• 1 tbsp soy sauce

For the marinade:

• 1 heaped tbsp cornflour

• 1 tbsp water

• 1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder

• 1 tsp soft brown sugar

To serve:

• Sweet chilli sauce

• Sesame seeds (optional)

• Lime wedges

Method

Make salt and pepper pork ribs with a simple marinade and salt and Szechuan pepper. Cook them until tender and crisp, and serve with chilli and herbs.

1. Preheat the oven to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 3.

2. Cook the ribs by placing them in an oven tray, and add ¼ pt of water. Cover tightly with foil and cook in the oven for 1.5 – 2 hours until the pork is tender. (You can use a slow cooker).

3. Remove from the tin and allow to cool.

4. Place the Szechuan peppercorns in a small pan and carefully heat for 1 minute. Allow the peppercorns to cool, and then crush in a grinder.

5. Mix the peppers together with the salt.

6. Make the marinade by mixing the cornflour, water, Chinese five-spice and sugar. Use to coat the ribs and leave in a bowl for 1 hour.

7. Heat the oven to 210˚C / 190˚C fan / Gas 6.

8. Place the ribs on a greased baking sheet or on non-stick baking paper, brush with oil and place in the oven for approximately 15-20 minutes, turning occasionally. Cook until crisp.

9. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the chilli, spring onion, garlic and ginger and fry for a few minutes, then add the soy sauce and the ribs and turn until the ribs are coated. Sprinkle the peppercorn and salt mixture over the top.

10. Serve immediately.

Welsh Beef Pad Thai

Prep time 15 mins

Cook time 20 mins

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 350g PGI Welsh Beef rump steak, thinly sliced (you could use flat iron steak)

• 200g dried rice noodles (flat noodles)

• 3 tbsp oil

• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 2 hot chillies, finely chopped, or ½ tsp dried chilli flakes

• 3 tbsp tamarind paste (mixed with 2 tbsp water)

• 2 tbsp soft brown sugar

• 2 tbsp fish sauce

• 1 tbsp reduced salt soy sauce

• 150g beansprouts

• 2 large eggs, beaten

• 3 spring onions, finely sliced

• 1 lime

To garnish:

• Small bunch chives, finely sliced

• Handful coriander, chopped

• 50g roasted peanuts, chopped

Method

1. Soak the noodles in warm water for approximately 10 minutes to soften. Drain and coat in 1 teaspoon of the oil.

2. Make the sauce: Place 1 tablespoon of the oil in a pan, add the garlic and chillies, and fry gently for a few minutes to soften. Add the sugar, tamarind mixture, fish and soy sauces and stir well over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the pan and keep aside.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a wok or frying pan, add the beef and fry over a high heat for a few minutes until brown. Remove from the pan then add the egg to the pan and cook until it sets slightly then break it up with a spoon. Remove from the pan.

4. Add the remaining oil to the pan. Add the beansprouts, noodles and spring onions, and using two spoons, toss over a high heat until piping hot. Add the sauce and stir well.

5. Return the beef and egg to the pan and toss for few minutes.

6. Serve topped with the herbs and chopped peanuts, and squeeze the lime over the top.

Balsamic glazed Welsh Lamb served with rosemary baby potatoes

Prep time 20 mins

Cook time 1 hrs

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 individual portions of mini PGI Welsh Lamb rumps, fat scored

• 1 tbsp oil, for frying

• 450g baby potatoes, halved

• 1 tbsp oil, for coating potatoes

• 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped

• Seasoning

• 3-5 sprigs of rosemary sprigs

• 1 tbsp red currant jelly, to serve or add to gravy

For the marinade:

• 125ml balsamic vinegar

• 2 tbsp clear honey

• 1½ tbsp wholegrain mustard

• 2-3 cloves garlic, crushed

• Seasoning Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C / 160°C fan / Gas 4.

2. Make up the marinade by combining the vinegar, honey, mustard, garlic and seasoning. Add the lamb pieces and rub the marinade into the lamb and the scored fat. Leave to stand for at least 30 minutes.

3. Combine the oil, chopped rosemary, salt and pepper, then add the potatoes and stir well.

4. Heat a pan (suitable for the oven), add the oil and fry the lamb rumps fat side down for a few minutes until brown, then turn to sear all surfaces of the lamb. Add the potatoes to the pan, fry until lightly browned. Add the rosemary springs and then transfer to the oven to finish cooking for approximately 20-25 minutes until the potatoes are cooked.

5. Allow meat to rest for 5 minutes before carving. While resting make a gravy and stir the redcurrant jelly into the gravy.

6. Serve with green vegetables e.g. broccoli.

Sea Bass with Asparagus and Sauce Vierge

Serves 4 Ingredients

• 20ml olive oil

• 80g of butter

• 4 sea bass fillets

• 12 spears of asparagus, ends trimmed off

• 3 plum tomatoes

• 30g capers

• 1 lemon, juice only

• 2 shallots, finely chopped

• 100ml extra virgin olive oil

• ½ bunch basil, chopped

• ½ bunch chives, chopped

• ¼ bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Method

1. To make the sauce, plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for 3 minutes until the skin starts to come away.

2. Refresh in cold water, discard the seeds and chop and retain the outer flesh.

3. In a saucepan, add the extra virgin olive oil, shallots, tomatoes, garlic and capers and warm through (do not boil).

4. After 5 minutes, remove from the heat and stir in the herbs and lemon juice, season with a little salt and leave to stand for 20 minutes. The sauce can be served cold, but if you want it warm, just return it to the heat for 30 seconds before serving.

5. Slash the skin of the sea bass at 3cm intervals and season with plenty of salt.

6. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and lower in the sea bass, skin-side down. Cook for 5 minutes until the sides start to go slightly opaque, then flip it over, throw in the butter and asparagus and cook for a further 3 minutes.

7. Serve over the beautiful sauce vierge.

Recipe from North Wales Fish & Seafood, by Cai Ross and Toby Watson.

Photography by Huw Jones.

Published by Graffeg. £11.99, or £7.99 using Taste24 order code discount at checkout, from www.graffeg.com

Order from www.graffeg.com at £7.99 and save £4.

recipes prepared by experienced writer Cai Ross and professional chef Toby Watson, with a focus on regional food production.

• Cai Ross: My North Wales

• 32 recipes covering: Scallops, Mussels, Mackerel, Cod, Trout, Oysters, Seabass, Plaice, Crab & Lobster, Fishellaneous, Stocks & Sauces

• Information on local seafood suppliers and wholesalers

• Illustrated throughout with images by food photography specialist Huw Jones

Authors Cai Ross and Toby Watson

• Photography Huw Jones

• Hardback • 150 x 150mm • 160 pages

• £11.99 • ISBN 9781802585377

www.graffeg.com

Food & Drink Reviews

The culinary alchemy of Cradoc’s crackers

For baker-ladies Allie and Ella Thomas, holding their values and doing things the Cradoc’s way, has allowed them to provide a treasure trove of sustainablycrafted crackers, not just to the good folk of Brecon, but to delis and restaurants throughout the country. Presented in boxes each of which is a work of art, Cradoc’s were developed for artisan cheeseboards, but are also delicious alone. A perfect consistency –thin, crisp and with a pleasing snap – these crackers are robust enough to carry a slathering of butter and generous chunk of cheese, or equally to hold their own when dipped. The Sea-Salted, bejewelled with chunks of Halen Môn, is classic in its simplicity, allowing robust cheeses to shine or adding a deliciously brinybite to creamier ones. The Coconut & Chilli brings a spicy kick to any party, wonderfully complementing a mature cheddar. We appreciated the gentle roughness of the Oat crackers, ideal accompanying a ploughman’s, and loved the earthy, seediness of the Wholemeal, while greedily scooping up houmous and guac. The Szechuan 5-Spice we enjoyed alone, perfect with a G&T, it made the botanics sing. While Misu and Wasabi will be a hit with heat lovers and was a personal favourite.

www.cradocssavourybiscuits.co.uk

Brecon Carreg Ginger Ale

Trap based Brecon Carreg continues to grow apace. Now Welsh-owned again, after a management buyout in 2019, they’re on a mission to extend the reach of the UK’s most popular Welsh mineral water into new sectors. Having already launched a range of tonic waters, next up is ginger ale. As with the tonics, it’s based on a carbonated version of Brecon Carreg’s beautifully soft, mineral rich water, that’s taken decades to filter through the rocks of the beacons. Wisely, Brecon Carreg haven’t crowded out the quality of the water by overloading it with intense ginger. The result is a nicely balanced ale that’s pure ginger on the nose, but with a lovely mellow, warm ginger essence on the palate and a tingly explosion of bubbles everywhere. It’s refreshing and comforting on its own, complements a spiced rum nicely letting the rum do its thing, but really shines with whisky to create a drink that’s so much more than the sum of its parts. Da iawn Brecon Carreg!

www.breconwater.co.uk

Hive Mind Spiced Honey Rum

The team at Hive Mind, have come a long way since, as avid bee-keepers, they launched Wye Valley Meadery with their contemporary take on a traditional mead. Having rebranded as Hive Mind, their offering now includes a host of honeyed drinks from stout to flavoured sparkling meads. The latest addition is their first foray into the world of spirits. Using their own brewed molasses as a base for distillation and augmented by the addition of spices and honey from their own hives in the Wye Valley, they’ve created something rather special. Their secret is they’ve incorporated the honey into the process, during and after distillation, in a way that preserves its integrity and flavour without overloading the high-quality spirit and other spices with too much honey sweetness. The result is a delicately sweet, smooth, complex rum with floral notes and a nice warm kick, all with that divine honey flavour, which is nicely balanced by the spirit and spices. Brilliant on its own or with a subtle mixer, one which won’t hide its layers of flavour. If you like rum and honey you’ll love it. In fact, we suspect you’ll love it regardless.

www.hivemindmead.com

Do Goodly Dips

Well, there’s a first for everything and this is our first TB review for a Chip Shop Curry Sauce. Not just any curry sauce, but a brand-new offering from Llanelli-based, Do-Goodly Dips. Do-Goodly do things differently, creating familiar-sounding dips, but as their name suggests, dips that do-good; plant-based, handmade, environmentally-aware, and delicious. We went traditional, dipping crisps into it cold, and then chips in when warmed. We loved its creamy texture and aniseed tones, it’s spicy-fruity-Indian flavour hinting deliciously towards its humble, chip-shop cousin. Next, our tortilla chips scooped up the sunshine-yellow of the Nacho Cheeze, whose bean and veg base provided a pleasingly chunky texture, this time with a cheesy, savoury flavour and a spiced chipotle kick. And then atop crackers we tried the vibrant Roasted Red Pepper. Well-rounded, balsamically sweet, but with smoky promise. Picnics, parties or on the sofa with a good film, Do-Goodly Dips are deliciously fun and yet reassuringly responsible.

www.dogoodlydips.com

Cygnet 22 – A taste of honey

Welsh mezzo-soprano, Katherine Jenkins, is an expert at caring for her throat, and her daily regime includes manuka honey, known as much for its health-giving properties as its rich taste. Now Katherine has developed Cygnet 22, an ultra-premium gin, distilled with 22 botanicals including lemon balm, rose petals and of course, manuka honey. Understanding the importance of ‘clean alcohol’ on the voice, Katherine knew her gin needed to be smooth enough to sip neat. She has succeeded. Neat, the gentle aroma of juniper, honey and botanicals was pleasing to the nose and mouth, but it was its silky smoothness that really set it apart. Warming, soothing and leaving a lingering sweet-softness in its wake. When combined with a classic tonic-water, 22 creates a sparkling, refreshing long drink, whose soft honeyed tones remain. Cygnet 22, delivered in an elegant bottle beautiful enough to be re-used as a vase, is truly an elixir.

www.cygnet-distillery.com

Welsh Biscuits for Cheese

Shepherd’s Welsh Biscuits, long been associated with quality (gathering up armfuls of accolades), and with Welsh culinary history (being behind the traditional scallop-shaped Aberffraw shortbread, widely believed to be Britain’s oldest biscuit), have innovated, developing a range of biscuits (not crackers) designed to be eaten with cheese. Each biscuit has its own distinct texture and flavour profile. The Digestives have a familiar maltiness, but are crumblier and more luxurious than their mass-produced cousins. Their gentle sweetness perfectly partners the tanginess of blue cheese, such as Caws Cenarth’s, Perl Las. The rustic, oatiness of the Bara Ceirch is a delight, lending a nuttiness and contrasting texture to creamy cheeses, such as Perl Wen. A personal favourite was the Spelt & Sea Salt. A truly special combination of chewy ancient grains with sharp hits of salt. Perfect for accompanying harder cheeses, such as Caws Teifi’s, Saval or Snowdonia’s, Black Bomber. What a wonderfully different way to enjoy our wealth of Welsh cheeses.

www.shepherdsbiscuits.com

Heartsease Farm’s Sparkling Apple and Rhubarb

Having reviewed the Heartsease range last year, we were excited to discover that Radnor Hills have recently added two new flavours to their broadening assortment of sparkling pressés, Apple & Pear and Apple & Rhubarb. We sampled the later, and as with the rest of their splendid offerings, the company have sourced top-quality ingredients and blended them with their pure Radnorshire spring water to create another delicious and thirst-quenching beverage. The crisp sweetness of the apples is beautifully partnered with the sharp, tanginess of the rhubarb, creating a wonderfully light and refreshing drink, bursting with

so much flavour that it made us nostalgic for the oldfashioned apple and rhubarb tarts of our childhood. A grown-up soft drink, perfect for the long summer evenings ahead.

www.radnorhills.co.uk

GFG London Dry Gin

Grounds for Good, the Welsh company leading the way in providing environmentally responsible products, has launched what is arguably the world’s most sustainable gin, bottled in (94% recycled) paper bottles, with a carbon footprint six times lower than glass. During lockdown, Dr Rosie Oretti, retired NHS medic, realised, when volunteering in a local coffee shop, just how many coffee-grounds ended up in landfill where they omitted potent greenhouse gases. Rosie set up Grounds for Good to save old grounds from landfill, repurposing them into beauty products, candles, chocolate, fire-lighters, and now gin. GFG London Dry Gin, created using locally grown botanicals, is filtered through used coffee-grounds, collected from local coffee houses. We found it refined enough to sip neat, with lively juniper and citrus notes to the fore which were deliciously rounded off by a dark, coffee smokiness behind. Subtle and delicious. We were impressed that when paired with a good tonic, not only did the high notes of the botanicals continue to sparkle, but the rich undertone of coffee sustained. A great tasting gin that is also good for the environment.

www.groundsforgood.co.uk

Grow Your Own

Myfanwy

Alexander

If you look at the way we get our nourishment in these modern times, you can spot several contradictory trends. On the one hand, the desire to save time has lead to phenomena such as meal delivery services to eliminate shopping and the plethora of high-tech, vitamen-enriched o erings which look to me like the love child of Pot-Noodle and a gym drink. On the other hand, we are bothering more than ever with time-consuming edible treasures like sour-dough bread and growing your own food has never been more cool. Allotments have lost their ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ image and eco-conscious young hipsters are raising kale on every spare corner of urban ground. At this time of year, as nature sprouts all around us and almost every country walk can yield enough wild garlic for a pesto, more of us than ever before are thinking about producing what we eat.

I should start out by observing that there is nothing like trying to produce your own food to increase one’s respect for the professionals and that no-one wants to become a slave to their vegetable patch but there are some serious foodie reasons for putting a little thought into raising what goes on your plate. e rst of these must be the avour of freshness. Many garden vegetables, particularly salads, deliver a taste impact so far removed from what you nd in the supermarkets that it is like the di erence between colour and black and white telly. Top of my own ‘fresh is best’ league table are mangetout peas. It was my ambition, when my girls were young, to manage to serve mangetout at a meal but the local grower who sold us peas provided an irresistable temptation: however large the bag he delivered, there were never more than three le by suppertime and I can’t blame the little scavengers: not only were they intensely sweet but they had an almost herby taste: it you could taste a colour, it would be the green of those peas. ey’re grow well outside in Wales and if you like a bit of recycled chic, enhance your garden with a length of old guttering which makes an ideal bed for mangetout. e range at Growseed in Swansea is excellent: they even stock a variety called Shiraz which produces purple pods to give a touch of originality to any salad or stirfry.

Which leads me onto the second reason for bothering to grow for one’s own table, product availability.

As I may have mentioned before, I am a sorrel fanatic. Nothing imparts a zing like sorrel, stirred through home-made mayonnaise, wilted in cream mashed potato or simply going solo as the perfect accompaniment to a rib-eye steak. I may have also mentioned that my home area in mid Wales is a fantastic place for ingredients, fresh water sh, game and, of course, meat but sorrel? Alas, not within an hour’s drive. Luckily, it grows easily in a container or ground sown, so nowadays my search for sorrel goes no further than the kitchen window sill.

If space allows, anything from a cloche made with old windowframes to a full edged polytunnel really mitiages against the worst of Welsh weather and means there in no excuse not to potter in the garden even if it is raining. A friend who is both a suberb cook and an adventurous gardener has relegated an old armchair to her polytunnel where she retreats to watch things grow and to delight in that unmistakeable scent of tomato plants. If you opened your grandparents’ greenhouse on a hot day, that was the delightful smell which greeted you and for this reason, I pay funny money for vine tomatoes, so I can sni the stems. Far better, however, to reprodice the experience by raising your own. Yo can simply slice the old tomatoes lurking in your salad drawer horizontally, lay the slices on potting compost, cover with more compost and leave somewhere out of direct sun for a couple of weeks, watering when required. You will come back and nd tomato seedings, ready for your polytunnel. You might, however, select speci c culinary varieties: San Marzano is a plum Italian variety which is perfect for Italian cooking. You may well end up with enough tomatoes to experiment with ketchup: give it a go and forget about the sugary mess you nd on industrial burgers. e other runaway success not to miss for your polytunnel are chillis and peppers. You can go on a experimental Latin journey in your own garden, growing varieties of di erent strengths to add to your fajitas or enchilladas or give your Assamese curries a punch of authenticity with bhut jolokia.

Delight your guests, quieten your inner enviromentalist and source ingredients without searching: there is no better time to push your meal prep back a stage and get growing.

COMING SOON ALDI STORES TO ACROSS WALES

Our family has been churning award winning butter since 1966, proudly supporting Welsh dairy farmers.

Made using only natural ingredients, this spreadable butter can be enjoyed straight from the fridge.