Aug - Oct 2024
Mid Wales’ hidden foodie treasure trove HERE’S TO BEER
Welsh ales to quaff this summer PICK’N’MIX Essentials for your hamper
Welshness makes a diff erence SH’ROOM AT THE TOP Eryri’s the place for funghi
Luxury, essential or essential luxury? How do you think of Welsh produce? is is a hunch, but I suspect for many, the feeling that Welsh food and drink, whether shop bought or restaurant ordered, is a bit of a treat or well-meaning gesture to support Welsh artisan producers and purveyors, is increasingly a thing of the past. We’re seeing more Welsh produce appearing on our supermarket shelves or on menus in our restaurants, all of which is indicative of demand. And it’s not surprising that we are all asking for more. e amazingly positive story we have to tell about our food and drink is one of quality, artisanship and provenance.
But this shi also says something about the opportunity Welsh produce presents to retail and hospitality. As our main feature on the Value of Welshness shows, the high esteem in which our food is held means those businesses that support it, stand to be more successful. e big win for the food and drink sector will come when this knowledge is embraced at all levels, and across the board - not just a small section in a supermarket, or in posh delis or high-end dining, but in the main aisles, in corner shops and a ordable,
mainstream eateries. As our review of e Welsh House shows, it is possible to dine out at a restaurant that showcases plenty of Welsh produce at a price that’s very reasonable. And the more we do it, thanks to economies of scale, the more a ordable it will become. And the more successful will be our food and drink sector. It’s a win win.
Elsewhere in this issue, Jon Gower lauds a proper Welsh Breakfast, we pay a visit to bustling Radnorshire, Myfanwy cooks outdoors, we indulge in summer beers and picnics and there’s a touch of Hollywood, and Bollywood, glamour, courtesy of Wrexham Lager and Indiana Cuisine. And much more besides. Read on and enjoy!
Paul Mulligan Publisher
Contributors: Jon Gower, Myfanwy Alexander, Jack Tilson, Mike Lewis, Caroline Sarll, Eryl Crump, Sue Austin, Sarah Morgan, Jonno Mack
Admin: Karen Kelly
Publisher: Paul Mulligan
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taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, ©Conroy Media 2024. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.
Fancy a Full Welsh?
Jon Gower certainly does
Imposter Syndrome
Caroline takes aim at foods that pretend to be veggie
Hold the Front Page
6
30
34 e latest news hot o the press
Restaurant Reviews
Two contrasting eateries with a love of Wales in common
Recipes
Salads, bbq’s and ice cold puds – it’s that time of year!
Finger Lickin’ Treats
Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds
An orderly Q
Myfanwy res up the bar-b
38
41
47
50
I recently spent some time in Scotland where, each and every morning I was o ered a full Scottish breakfast. Unfailingly, wherever I was staying, there would be the full array of haggis, link sausage and sometimes Lorne sausage – also known as square sausage or slice. ere’d be delicious circles of black pudding and, more rarely white pudding to give it a touch of tasteful ying and yang.
ere’d be the obligatory tatty scone not to mention the more conventional array of early day fare – bacon, eggs, baked beans, tomatoes and toast. It was probably wise not to dwell on the cholesterol load of the plate before me as I seldom took my calculator with me. ere was one occasion when, staying on the Inner Hebridean island of Tiree I did think of ringing a cardiologist before tucking in. Had I not been cycling my way around I would have ended up looking like an airship, with a belly shaped like the Hindenberg.
But it’s wasn’t the high calori c content that intrigued me, even though had I been a lumberjack a single breakfast would have given me su cient energy to chop down all the trees of the great Rothiemurchus Forest. It was the Scottishness of it, the way you started the day, each day with the very taste of national culture.
e tourism body Visit Scotland sees the tourist appeal of the full Scottish, lauding it in their publicity which suggests: ‘For the very best taste experience, be sure to source these items locally, from Scottish farms and butchers. Produce in Scotland is amongst the nest in the world, and there’s no better way to showcase the amazing ingredients on our doorstep than the traditional Scottish breakfast.’
Which made me think of all the hotels and bed and breakfasts I’ve stayed in Wales where the breakfasts were o en ‘Full English,’ a culinary conundrum if ever there was. Now you don’t need to be full-on leeksfor-breakfast, Calon Lan-on-loop-on-the-headphones nationalist to see there’s something out of kilter here. Out of kilt-er, even. Shouldn’t we, too, get behind the Full Welsh Breakast, and do so with all the enthusiasm of football’s Red Wall of Welsh fans belting out “Yma o Hyd?’
It’s not just a romantic notion, it’s pragmatic too. Market research undertaken by the Welsh Government Food and Drink Insight Programme, which has been exploring the attitudes of customers towards Welshness since 2017, found that in hospitality more than half our guests would like more local or Welsh items.
Arwyn Watkins, president of the Culinary Association of Wales, an organisation representing chefs and butchers across Wales sees this as a wake-up call, or, in this speci c instance perhaps an early morning wake-up call: “Four out of ten visitors would willingly pay a premium for dishes with Welsh ingredients. is isn’t just an opportunity; it’s a golden ticket for us to showcase our Welsh produce whilst maximising our revenues.”
e research also revealed that six in 10 visitors were more likely to visit a venue with Welsh products on the menu, with a quarter admitting that an absence of these options put them o going.
Which brings me to the point of this column. I’m minded to start a campaign, with the backing of this august organ. Once things settle down I’ll get a politician or two on side, maybe appoint a Full Welsh Ambassador from among the Senedd members, much as they do with many a good cause. en all you good readers can suggest quintessentially Welsh ways to present the contents of the great Welsh larder.
Some of the ingredients are obvious, and celebrate the shape of the country, Wales having a a long history and literal connection with the sea. A littoral connection, in fact. I have seen laverbread and cockles served up on a piece of slate in some upscale establishments, each being the very taste of sea. ese would be staple ingredients, surely, of Y Brecwast Llawn as it might be dubbed. Establishments could vie for the Welshest of Welsh breakfasts, with every single ingredient sourced not just in the country but as locally as possible. We will all have our own local contenders for the best bread, the best bacon and so on. It’s an idea to relish, or have with relish, as is your wont.
One of the most important ingredients of the perfect picnic isn’t actually the food or drink to be found in your hamper – don’t forget to rst pick your dream destination for your alfresco a ernoon excursion. is all depends on your starting location in Wales, and whether or not you’re keen to accommodate a short jaunt or even a road trip into your plans. Here’s a brief suggestion of picturesque picnic places whether you’re thinking North, Mid Wales, or South!
Starting from the North, if you want to be surrounded by peaks of greenery then try Coed Moel Famau in the Clwydian Range – otherwise Llandudno Beach can provide the perfect scenic seaside backdrop to your meal. For Mid Wales picnickers, we recommend taking in the grandiose sights of Powis Castle and Garden, or enjoying the serenity provided by Lake Vyrnwy in Powys. Finally, for those in the South, why not enjoy a feast among the owerbeds in Colby Woodland Garden in Pembrokeshire, or Dy ryn Gardens in Cardi .
As for your picnic blanket of choice, how about a so and luxurious one sourced locally Wales’ own Melin Tregwynt Mill? Now that you’ve picked your location and are sitting comfortably, we can begin lling your hamper with a hearty selection of food and drink.
Top of most people’s list for a perfect picnic is tucking into a freshly made sandwich – Crwst Bakery’s sourdough is hard to beat and what better lling than a Welsh Carmarthen Ham and Caws Cenarth Brie combo? For something more traditional, swap the ham and brie for a thick slice of Welsh PGI Beef topside or Welsh leg of lamb. If you feel like spicing things up try an Eastern (and veggie) take on a picnic staple and throw some Samosa Co Scotch Eggs into your hamper. Eggs and ham are a famous deli duo a er all! For vegan picknickers, e Parsnipship’s Moroccan Cashew & Walnut Roast will ensure they don’t feel le out.
To complement the sandwiches and scotch eggs, cheese and biscuits are another staple that needs to be added to your shopping list. Search out Cradoc’s crackers or, recently launched, Shepherds Biscuits and add some of the many excellent Welsh cheeses such as Dragon Cheddar Cheese, Caws Tei ’s Celtic Promise or Caws Cenarth’s Dewis Da collection of classics, to your shopping list. To accompany this classic combo add some Parsons Pickled Onions or something more exotic from the range of Celtic Preserves Pickles if you’re feeling adventurous.
No picnic is complete without some sides. Take the time to prepare a deliciously fresh and creamy Pembrokeshire Earlies Potato Salad the day before your trip, so you can enjoy the hearty goodness of some of the nation’s tastiest tats while you’re succumbing to its sights. Sprinkle in a few bags of Jones Welsh Crisps, an array of Do Goodly Dips, and Y Deli Salad Dressing for your salad and homegrown tomatoes and you’ve got yourself a serious spread to share with those you love!
at’s the savoury components packed, but what about tasty treats that can satiate sweet tooths and round o your hamper nicely? If you’re feeling like indulging in the nation’s favourite bakes then pack out a pack of Bodnant Welsh Cakes or Popty Bara Brith, or otherwise why not enjoy the fun of making your own homemade traybake to enjoy at your picnic spot. If you’re feeling like making more of a fancy celebration of your excursion, a good shout would be coupling all the ingredients of Cream Tea with some fresh Gower Strawberries. ink scones, Da odil Clotted Cream and your jam of choice from Pantri Swswen or Radnor Preserves!
Finally, what to wash it all down with while you’re drinking in the sights and sounds of your chosen picnicking vista? Factoring in a potential road trip, we’ve narrowed your choices down to a sumptuous selection of non-alcoholic beverages that will be sure to quench your thirst and complement your hamper at the same time. ere’s nothing quite like the crisp and ery taste of a Brecon Carreg Ginger Beer on a sunny day, but if you’re a er something a bit milder but still delightfully refreshing then the selection of Radnor Hill’s Pressés has you covered. If you’re more of a traditionalist then a nice homebrew ask of Welsh Brew Tea or one of Morgan’s Brew Tea’s exotic varieties will add a warm and cosy nishing touch to your grand day out!
Twenty years ago, you’d have been forgiven for thinking Wrexham Lager’s glory days were over.
Founded in 1882, it was the rst lager made in the UK, the beer of choice on the Titanic and of Gordon of Khartoum, and exported to all corners of the empire, being the rst lager to be exported to Australia. But, overlooked and struggling, it changed hands, ending up as an unloved part of a brewing behemoth with its brewery and name nally mothballed in the 2000s.
Were it not for a fortuitous turn of events, it could have stayed that way. As recently appointed Chief Executive, James Wright explains, a local MP, Martyn Jones, bought the name for £1, hoping someday it could be resurrected. A er a chance conversation with local businessman, Mark Roberts, a plan was hatched to revive Wrexham Lager in 2011. e only stipulation was the original recipe and brewing process be used. Within a short period, a new brewery was built, sales had reached 13 million pints a year and devoted fans were enjoying the exceptional quality of Wrexham Lager as it was originally intended by its founders.
James, with his background in successfully launching brands such as Corona Extra to the UK, has been appointed to get Wrexham Lager to the next level and to take advantage of yet another twist of fate. Wrexham FC’s purchase by Hollywood stars Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenny has lit a re under all things Wrexham while the associated worldwide success of Disney Plus’s ‘Welcome to Wrexham’ has sent interest into the stratosphere. As a Wrexham sponsor and a highly visible local company, it’s presented an amazing opportunity says James. ‘We've got this fantastic brand, with a rich history and we have this wonderful awareness of Wrexham at the moment which creates natural groundswell. It really gives a Welsh brand an opportunity to go global and hit a wider demographic.’
And James and the board have a clear plan to make this happen, based around ‘four pillars’. e rst is branding. “We have a clear vision of where we sit in the market – we’re not up against Corona or Budweiser. We’re more of a Moretti. And we now have very strict brand guidelines to ensure consistency as we dial up and down segments, and in di erent markets. To that end, there’s been an eye catching redesign that re ects the brand’s history and position in the market, which customers will already have seen. And a top to bottom reassessment of the products available, which has led to the relaunch of Wrexham Lager in cans, and a deepdive into the ‘SKU’ mix available to retailers, which will determine factors like pack size and container type and size. Allied to this, much has been done to legally secure the brand’s trademarks and build our marketing assets - whether it’s point of sale, digital, b2c or b2b, our platforms need to ex appropriately.”
e second pillar is production. Speci cally, ensuring the brewery and suppliers can scale up, whilst maintaining the age-old brewing process that makes Wrexham Lager so special. James explains ‘Brewing Bavarian style lager properly means we condition for four weeks minimum, where a lot of competitive brands are a lot quicker, because we're not using any chemicals, allowing the beer to do the talking through a proper conditioning process. is makes us stand out and is a key part of our avour and 140 years’ worth of history. So, the next stage is to build a new brewery in the heart of Wrexham that can do this, and yet meet future demand. We also want to create a circular economy locally, whether that's packaging or dry goods, which will support the growth of the business.
e third pillar is sales. Not surprisingly Wales, has been the bedrock of the brand since relaunching in 2011. e rest of the UK is increasingly taking notice of Wrexham Lager’s resurgence with more retailers and hospitality businesses becoming stockists. But the success of Welcome to Wrexham combined with Wrexham Lager’s history has created a unique opportunity to create a truly international Welsh brand, of which there are few at present. Sales to Europe, and Scandinavia in particular are growing fast; Canada, with its connection to the Titanic, is proving to be a thriving market, as is Australia. With the Hollywood connection and over 164 million people subscribing to Disney plus who watch Welcome to Wrexham, they’re set to launch in USA and have employed a sales team.
Finally, the fourth pillar is future proo ng. Whether it’s making sure investment is in place, structures and processes are appropriate for the planned growth, building an archive and visitor centre, creating a regional hub of suppliers or ensuring that sustainability is at the forefront of decision making, especially when taking the brand global, the board are determined to create a lasting legacy and that Wrexham Lager becomes, and stays, an iconic Welsh brand known the world over.
www.wrexhamlager.com
Wales offers a wide variety of quality home grown food and drink options taking advantage of the lush pastures, clean air and water. With a long history of beer making in Wales and many new craft brewers springing up in recent years, there is a burgeoning array of ales available so why not treat your taste-buds this summer and sup one of the following brews.
Wild Horse Brewing Co was established almost a decade ago in 2015, in the seaside town of Llandudno on the beautiful North Wales coast. Everything is done onsite by their close-knit team – from milling the grains and brewing, to kegging and packaging the pure unfiltered and unpasteurised precious final product!
Quarry of Colour is a mild and hazy pale ale, brewed from Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops for a flavour that’s bursting with hints of citrus and tropical fruity freshness. It gets its name from a local former limestone quarry in Llandudno, which became the Happy Valley public gardens in the 19th Century.
www.wildhorse.co.uk
It certainly takes Brains to think of the best beer that Wales has to offer this summer! Synonymous with Welsh pride and hearts worn on sleeves (logos worn on rugby shirts), this mainstay has been brewed in the heart of the capital city of Cardiff since 1882. Only the finest locally sourced ingredients are chosen for the brewing process, ensuring a final product that is worthy of representing this esteemed establishment.
Brains SA Gold is a refreshing ale that is full of flavour, brewed with hops of both the Cascade and Styrian Goldings varieties. This combination crafts an accessible and smooth taste with notes of citrus, providing the perfect accompaniment to light summery dishes like white fish.
www.sabrain.com
Monty’s Brewery is named after the ancient castle town of Montgomery in Powys, which is a short distance from the drink maker’s base of operations. Founded in 2008 by Russ and Pam Honeyman, this husband-and-wife team have since established Monty’s as one of the most preeminent Welsh breweries. Over the years they’ve developed a particular passion for gluten free beers, so be sure to keep an eye out for this name when you’re looking for accessible and easy drinking beers for all to enjoy!
Monty’s Sunshine is a 2014 Great Taste award-winning golden, hoppy, and floral ale. Featured as part of ‘500 of the World’s Finest Craft Brews’, Ben McFarland proclaimed that “the golden jewel in Monty’s crown is this easy-sipping summer slaker; floral with a dry apricot finish” – high praise indeed!
www.montysbrewery.co.uk
Purple Moose Brewery hails from the historic harbour town of Porthmadog, surrounded by the gorgeous foothills of Snowdonia in North Wales. Their multi award-winning beers are exclusively brewed using UK malted barley and water from the Snowdonia hills. Their unique name comes from a local legend of moose roaming Snowdonia over a thousand years ago, grazing on heather in the summer that turned their fur purple!
Cwrw Ysgawen/Elderflower Ale is a refreshing pale ale brewed from Welsh mountain water and other entirely natural ingredients. Its unique aroma comes from Cascade hops and the added indulgence of elderflowers, coming together to form a floral bouquet and a delectable sweet citrus finish.
www.purplemoose.co.uk
Starting out life as The Great Orme Brewery in 2006, 12 years of refining their craft led to the establishment of Snowdon Craft Beer in 2018. Along the way they’ve gone from their very first brew out of a 700 square foot shed winning a regional Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) award, to making the tough decision in 2023 to cease brewing themselves and instead cherry picking the very best local Welsh brewers to continue crafting their experimental array of delicious ales and lagers.
Snowdon proudly proclaim that their IPA is “an exquisite dry hopped full flavoured session IPA”, brewed using a unique combination of Equanot, Chinook, Comet, and Sorachi Ace hops. This 4.0% dryness makes it a light and refreshing choice for when the summer weather picks up!
www.snowdoncraftbeer.co.uk
As the name suggests, Gower Brewery has been crafting the finest ales in the Welsh Gower Peninsula since 2011. The peninsula was the UK’s first ever designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), and this pioneering and trendsetting attitude is reflected in the brewery’s pursuit of perfection that reflects their serendipitous surroundings. In their own words, they are “inspired by the wonder of hazy morning mist over the estuary, sea-kissed sand-filled vistas, clean surf and miles of rugged coastlines” –cheers to that!
Gower Gold is very much the flagship beer of this brewery, becoming an incredibly popular mainstay since it was first brewed over a decade ago in December 2011. From that initial aroma of cascade hops comes the refreshing taste of both a citrus fruit and melon flavoured palate.
www.gowerbrewery.co.uk
Felinfoel Brewery gets its name from the small village it’s situated in, next to Llanelli in South Wales. Local legend dictates that a nearby inn used to brew its own beer during the winter months, requiring a certain strength and keeping quality to last the cold – traits that gave rise to what is known as Felinfoel style beer. Demand meant a brewery was built in 1878 and Felinfoel has been under the stewardship of six generations of master brewers since!
Felinfoel’s IPA takes its influence from the American style of pale ales, with a colour akin to golden straw and a signature “lacing head”. Floral hoppiness aroma gives way to a malty aroma, with the latter also providing a caramelised taste and making this medium-bodied beer a smooth experience this summer.
www.felinfoel.com
Based in Llandeilo in West Wales, Evan Evans can open their brewery doors each day and take in the sights of the breathtaking Black Mountains right on their doorstep! Seven generations of the Buckley family have perfected their brewing craft at Evan Evans since 1767, with even 250 years of experience failing to slow down their appreciation for exciting and innovative ways to further hone their skills and output of delicious drinks.
Cwrw Haf is a gorgeous light golden ale full of tantalising citrus and berry fruit flavours, brewed every summer for a limited annual release. According to Evan Evans, it makes for “the perfect quaffing beer” –so crack one open and indulge in the refreshing taste as the sun warms your soul.
www.evanevansbrewery.com
Tenby Brewing Company has been independently brewing full-flavoured beers for almost a full decade now. As the name suggests, they started out life in 2015 in the stunning town of Tenby, right out on the most south-westerly tip of our glorious nation of Wales. From their diverse core range to seasonal releases, and even limited edition collaborations, Tenby is a name (and taste!) to keep on the tip of your tongue.
The rather playfully named Illemonati is a sherbet lemon-inspired sour beer with tasteful additions of lemon sherbet crystals and the essence of actual lemons, making for an authentically zesty choice to kick back with this summer. Tenby has delicately back sweetened with a little sugar to ensure a balanced and gentle sweetness to counter the citrus tang.
www.tenbybrewingco.com
Part of the working family farm of Tyriet, a big part of what makes Bluestone Brewing so unique is its commitment to ethics and environmental impact. All by-products from the brewing process are either reused elsewhere in the farm’s operations or fed back to their animals in a closed cycle. Even the water used to brew their beer comes from Tyriet’s own well and the farm generates its own solar power to boot!
When dreaming up a perfect summer beer, Bluestone Brewing’s rather aptly named Al Fresco springs to mind at once. A hazy pale ale, purportedly “designed to be enjoyed outdoors in the glorious Welsh sunshine” –this juicy and tropical beer comes from a unique blend of Verdant yeast coupled with Simcoe, Centennial, and Citra hops.
www.bluestonebrewing.co.uk
‘Every day when I wake up, I thank the Lord I’m Welsh.’ Our food and drink producers could be forgiven for indulging in a nostalgic sing-a-long to that 1990s Catatonia classic ‘International Velvet’ if the increasingly recognised value of ‘Welshness’ to the nation’s food and drink industry is anything to go by.
At a time when transparency on the origins and production of food and drink has never been so important, recent Welsh Government research has highlighted the positive impact provenance has on the country’s producers.
The research is part of the considerable support from Welsh Government offered to food and drink suppliers, fuelled by a trenchant belief that Wales is the best place in the UK to launch and develop a food business. Support ranges from Food & Drink Wales to Cywain cluster groups to world-class food technology centres, skills coaching and the government’s Insight programme. The Insight programme offers market data and future trends to ensure businesses are broadly supported and encouraged to produce quality food and drink with a proud heritage. By constantly scanning the horizon for emerging trends and markets, it enables member businesses to achieve competitive advantage through the latest information on markets in Wales, UK and countries worldwide. It forms a bedrock of advice offered through one-to-one business support and the Welsh Government’s Cluster network programme.
Much of this research is freely available through seminars and on the website (businesswales.gov. wales/foodanddrink/welsh-food-drink-performance) which provides everything from industry overviews to deep-dives that provide the finer detail.
To that end, Food and Drink Wales have commissioned a series of research to better understand customers’ and businesses attitudes towards Welsh food and drink.
Each piece of research demonstrates that shoppers and guests desire more Welsh food and drink in retail and out of home venues.
The research undertaken by the Welsh Government’s Insight programme aimed to understand the ‘Value of Welshness’ to shoppers and guests in Wales and across the UK – Welshness in food service as well as retail – shows Wales is linked to images of family, tradition, lush pasture, great scenery, clear nutrient rich waters, holidays, great memories and belonging as far as growing numbers of consumers are concerned.
English shoppers surveyed were shown to have a particularly strong affinity to Wales with one in five (20 per cent) feeling ‘partly Welsh’ and one-third more likely to buy a product if they saw ‘Welshness’ on a pack.
The good news for Welsh producers is that the natural association people in Wales, the UK and beyond have with the country and its landscape influences shopper perceptions of the attributes of Welsh food and drink, with fresh, natural, quality and taste all strongly connected in shoppers’ minds; particularly when it comes to primary produce.
To attract more shoppers and guests, increase sales, and increase loyalty
Welshness in Food Service…
Guest need gap 9/10
guests think it’s important that venues have a good range of dishes with Welsh ingredients.
Yet only 2/3 of businesses think it’s important to have a good selection of Welsh food and drinks guests think Welsh products and dishes should be promoted in venues. 4/10
guests would pay more for dishes with Welsh ingredients 50% would be discouraged from visiting if there was NO Welsh offer
of guests would like more dishes with Welsh ingredients on the menu.
Welshness in Retail… of visitors from England and Scotland when they go home would like to have more Welsh products available when they eat out.
More than 54% 9/10 1/4 1/2
For English shoppers, the Welsh landscape and countryside dominate their view of Wales, which resonates strongly with a view that Welsh products are natural and fresh.
More than half of Welsh shoppers would pay more for Welsh for top products
In fact, 42 per cent of UK consumers associate Wales with natural food and drink, compared with an overall figure of 33 per for the UK as a whole.
For Welsh guests specifically, having more Welsh items on the menu was important because 76 per cent saw it as supporting Welsh farming; 68 per cent supporting local producers and the local economy; 43 per cent perceived it to be fresher; 34 per cent better for the environment and 33 per cent better quality.
When asked to pick their top five most important reasons for choosing a venue when eating out, one in five guests selected the availability of Welsh ingredients and alcohol brands. More important, in fact, than healthy options or promotional deals.
This is actually ranked higher than having a great range of own-label products. The main reasons selected in the top five were low prices and value for money, product quality and local convenience.
Overall, it is clear that for many Welsh shoppers a strong range of Welsh produce is a retailer loyalty driver and Welsh Food and Drink and the broader values associated with Welsh products (quality, freshness, sustainability) are rated highly by shoppers. And across product categories, those considered closest to the imagery of Wales (countryside, landscape) are deemed to benefit most, with meat and dairy scoring highest.
Welsh shoppers say it’s important for their retailer to stock a good range of Welsh products. 3/4
Welsh shoppers would like their retailer to stock more Welsh products 2/3
of shoppers in England think that it’s important their retailer has a great range of brands with Welsh, Scottish and English provenance.
A whopping 43 per cent of guests would be willing to pay more for a dish with Welsh ingredients, while the vast majority (89 per cent) felt that venues should promote their offers of Welsh food and drink, strongly supporting the notion that Welshness adds value to the out of home market.
One in five Welsh shoppers selected ‘stocking a good range of Welsh meat, dairy and produce’ as a top five reason for shopping at their main shop retailer.
Of course, Welsh Lamb is already well-known and well-perceived both in the UK and internationally, but the fact that there are 700-plus food and drink manufacturers in Wales comes as a revelation to some buyers. This is why one of Welsh Government’s main strategies is to create a strong and vibrant Welsh food and drink sector with a global reputation for excellence, along with being one of the most environmentally and socially responsible supply chains in the world.
Based on Anglesey, in the shadow of Snowdonia, the Dylan’s chain of restaurants and general goods stores is, perhaps, the epitome of a business steeped in Welshness.
8/10
Welsh shoppers would choose Welsh for top products (Like for Like).
More than half
54% 3/4
of Welsh shoppers would pay more for Welsh.
Welsh shoppers say it’s important for their retailer to stock a good range of Welsh products 3/4
Welsh shoppers would like their retailer to stock more Welsh products. 2/3
of shoppers in England think that it’s important their retailer has a great range of brands with Welsh, Scottish and English provenance.
© Crown copyright 2024, Welsh Government, WG48963
Mae’r ddogfen hon ar gael yn Gymraeg hefyd / This document is also available in Welsh Rydym yn croesawu gohebiaeth a galwadau ffôn yn Gymraeg / We welcome correspondence and telephone calls in Welsh
“Welshness is at the heart of everything that we look to do,” asserts spokesperson Dave Retallick. “All our retail and ambient range is produced on Anglesey – for instance, all our sauces are made, bottled, labelled and dispatched from there.
“And whether our products are bound for 120 farm shops across Wales or to Selfridges or The Co-op, we are giving our team the opportunity to work where they live somewhere within their own community.”
Dave says the Dylan’s ethos is to aim for its products to be less seasonal.
“To us, the value of Welshness goes a lot deeper than what’s written on a label,” he explains. “To have ‘Made in Wales’ on a product effectively gives it a seal of approval which we feel is a really important stamp to have.
“Other larger companies may outsource certain products, and I totally understand that, but we always strive to have as much control over our products as possible.
“Bread, pasties, patisseries, desserts – you name it, we want customers to know that everything we make comes from where we are and that what’s on their plate has not travelled very far.
“When we talk about the value of Welshness we should also remember the value to the community – having a Welsh identity helps us secure that.
“When you attend the Blas Cymru/Taste Wales conference and exhibition and see what other businesses it attracts that in itself is a massive statement – not just the numbers of companies but the vitality of the industry they represent.
“This, coupled with the support and tenacity Welsh Government provides makes a really good statement that, for other people, makes Blas Cymru/Taste Wales hard to miss! On top of that such events help to raise awareness as well as boost food tourism.”
In The Welsh Wind, the award-winning distillery based on the west Wales coast a few miles north of Cardigan, is another business much-rooted within the local community.
Ellen Wakelam, ITWW’s founder, director and owner, grew up in Ceredigion and made an active choice to come back and set up the business with her partner.
“The value of Welshness provides a framework within which to work,” says spokesperson Sally Sellwood. “Everything we do comes back to our origins as a brand, and these are inextricably linked with Wales and to Ceredigion specifically.
“Our Eccentric brand – a range of Welsh gin and rum craft – is also firmly based in Wales.
“Our ethos has always been based on telling stories of this part of Wales – hence the botanical profile of our gin, inspired by cargoes imported into the port of New Quay in the 19th century – and our ongoing project to produce a single malt Welsh whisky produced from barley grown within five miles of the distillery, malted here, distilled on-site, matured and bottled all in west Wales.
“This sense of place really resonates with customers, both retail and trade – people want to get behind a brand with an authentic story and we offer that in spades.
“As a Welsh business, we’re also hugely appreciative of the support we receive from the Welsh Government in
terms of opportunities and support for the brand and our products.
“The aim of our customers is to attract more guests and diners, increase sales and therefore increase loyalty with repeat visits.
“In The Welsh Wind has worked with Business Wales and the Accelerate Growth Programme and we continue to work with Mentera (Menter a Busnes) and Cywain, supporting development across all areas of the business from staff training to process improvement and the introduction of new technologies into our production.
“We are actively looking at ways to introduce more visible aspects of Welshness into our brand and communications and this is an ongoing project.
“Blas Cymru/Taste Wales was a fantastic event to be involved with. We were excited to be showcased alongside the best of Wales and it was a great opportunity to network and make connections which we’ve followed up with going forward.”
A similar mantra is repeated at the The Welsh House bar and restaurant chain whose core value is ‘to support Welsh suppliers of all sizes and showcase the best of Wales throughout our menus and experiences’, according to Brand Director Carys Cobley.
“Each Welsh House has created a loyal repeat customer base demonstrating the community’s commitment to ‘support local’ also,” she says. “The brand attracts a huge amount of interest from tourists who are all keen to experience Welsh produce.
“Whilst researching and developing The Welsh House brand, we identified that the Welsh cuisine often came at a premium, which didn’t fit our accessible and affordable ethos.
“Therefore, the team along with our suppliers have developed menus to ensure that experiencing Welsh dishes can be enjoyed and experienced by all demographics.
“We have found that guests are more intrigued than ever to understand where the produce on their plate came from.
“So much so that we created a story booklet for each diner, detailing and showcasing the true authenticity of our supply chain, proudly exhibiting all the fantastic Welsh food and drink suppliers we work alongside to create the full Welsh House experience.
“Blas Cymru/Taste Wales is a great event to meet and connect with industry leaders working within Welsh food and drink and is one of the most valuable events in the calendar.
“It provides great exposure for hospitality brands, not just in Wales but internationally, as well as supporting our mission which is for Welsh cuisine to be recognised on a global scale.”
The stated aim of Castell Howell, one of the UK’s leading independent food wholesalers, is to close ‘the need gap’ between guests and businesses and work with them in developing and designing their menus. “We also advise them on the ingredients they use,” says Marketing Lead Shaun Pinney.
“Over the past few years and since the ‘Buy Local’ movement, customers have become more aware of products that have strong provenance and nine out of ten diners, according to a Food and Drink Wales report, think it’s important that venues have a good range of dishes with Welsh ingredients and that they promote them in venues with 43 per cent of customers happy to pay more.
“For example, a pub may have a cheese burger on its menu, however, by swapping the standard burger, its cheese and relish for Welsh alternatives elevates the dish and creates a uniqueness to the item, creating a ‘Hero Item” for their menu, which can help with repeat visits.
“Embracing Welsh produce on a restaurant’s menu is more than a culinary choice – it’s a celebration of local heritage, a commitment to provenance and sustainability and a way to share the rich flavours of Wales on every plate.”
He describes Blas Cymru/Taste Wales event as a great opportunity for networking and ‘perfect’ for businesses to connect with new customers, increase their brand’s visibility and build relationships.
And the company’s Welsh Foods Specialist, Lindsey Hamer, describes Blas Cymru/Taste Wales as ‘excellent’, from a buyer’s point of view.
“It’s the perfect platform to efficiently see new products and suppliers. The event also gives producers a diary marker to work towards to bring out new products, which is critical when bringing in new ranges to Castell Howell.
“It’s also a brilliant showcase to see what’s new and trending in the industry, which for us can help keep our customers ahead of the curve and stay innovative in a rapidly evolving market.”
When it comes to promoting Brand Wales, Welsh Government are building from a strong foundation. We now know that Welsh produce has a great reputation for being high quality, wholesome and expertly-made but the Government’s stated aim is to build on existing strengths, using a ‘hero and halo’ approach and develop a family of ‘hero’ products that represent the very best of Wales.
Evidence shows that promoting a clear ‘Welsh’ identity on products often adds considerable value to our remarkable brands.
Over 80 per cent of shoppers polled in Wales would prefer to buy Welsh products when presented with a like-for-like choice, with 72 per cent of businesses wanting more Welsh food and drink in their shops, and nine out of ten guests saying it is important that venues offer a good selection of dishes with Welsh ingredients while half would like more Welsh items on menus.
The importance of a Welsh offering was highlighted with two-thirds (66 per cent) of English and Scottish visitors and six out of 10 of Welsh visitors saying that having Welsh on a menu makes them more likely to visit with a quarter saying that not having Welsh on the menu discouraged them from visiting a venue. The strong association between Welshness and enhanced experience is borne out by visitors actively seeking venues that offer a fair amount or lots of Welsh ingredients on menus.
These will then be vigorously promoted, helping them to drive sales and dominate their markets. The ‘halo effect’ follows naturally: the whole industry can benefit from a strong core of high-profile brands. And, by association, the reputation of Wales as a whole will be increased further.
The businesses listed above will be among those attending Blas Cymru/Taste Wales, Wales’s signature
multi-faceted programme to promote the Welsh food and drink industry in a national and international setting, this autumn.
Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales delivers against commitments in the Vision for the Food and Drink industry from 2021, to build on the significant growth in the sector in recent years, further develop the global reputation of Wales as a food nation and enable our businesses to proactively sell their quality food and drink to the rest of the UK and the world.
To allow Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales to develop further, the event will divide into a conference which grew from the exhibition at previous Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales events, and a brokerage, which also evolved from the meet-the-buyer trade activity at previous events.
The first Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales Conference will be held on October 24 at Venue Cymru, Llandudno. The conference will replace the exhibition element formerly part of the trade event. The next Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales Brokerage will take place in October 2025 at the ICCW Newport.
Aimed at a business audience, the new Blas Cymru/ Taste Wales Conference will include practical seminars, industry workshops, expert panels, and specialist surgeries along with an opportunity to learn more on the suite of Welsh Government support available for the food and drink industry in Wales.
In summary, Cabinet Secretary for Climate Change and Rural Affairs, Huw Irranca-Davies, said: ”It’s heartening to see the positive light in which Welsh food and drink produce is viewed. The Value of Welshness research unequivocally demonstrates how embracing our Welshness is a huge plus for our food sector. This impression is grounded in fact - Wales produces amazing food and drink and we have the natural resources, people, traditions and expertise to excel. We should all take every opportunity to support our first-class Welsh food and drink producers and restaurateurs, by buying Welsh whenever and wherever we can.”
So as Catatonia once put it so memorably, Welsh food and drink producers have ample reasons to celebrate their unique selling point that gives them that vital extra edge over rival competitors, every single day!
Cabinet Secretary for Climate Change and Rural Affairs, Huw Irranca-Davies
24 October 2024
Venue Cymru
The Promenade, Llandudno
If you’re a Welsh food and drink business, the conference is not to be missed. The event will include practical seminars, industry workshops, expert panels, and specialist surgeries along with an opportunity to find out about the full suite of Welsh Government support available to the food and drink industry in Wales.
Talk to us about your business journey:
Do you want to set up? Expand? Export? Invest?
Do you want to set up? Expand? Export? Invest? Develop new products or update your waste management? Become more efficient and save?
Come with questions, leave with answers, contacts, and more!
Discover a world of possibilities with Welsh food and drink: gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales
With an abundance of fresh, natural produce, Wales has a long and proud tradition of producing outstanding food and drink. Delicious, natural ingredients are grown and gathered from its landscapes and shores by skilled and dedicated communities of farmers and fishers.
Around 400,000 tonnes of food goes to waste in Wales each year, much of it still good to eat. If just 1% of that was saved, it could be used to provide over 9 million meals—enough to provide three meals to every person in Wales. Simultaneously, a quarter of the population of Wales is facing poverty and struggling to access quality, nutritious food. Thousands of people across the country are experiencing food insecurity and are regularly going hungry.
FareShare Cymru was established in 2010 and delivers surplus, good to eat food that might otherwise go to waste to charities and community groups in every corner of Wales. Today FareShare Cymru has distributed tonnes of surplus food to a network of groups and organisations across Wales that provide food and other essential services to people in need. From cookery classes and lunch clubs in community centres, to school breakfast clubs, stocking the shelves of community pantries and providing hearty meals in homelessness shelters, food redistributed by FareShare Cymru is used by charities in a variety of ways. It enables these groups to bring people together and continue offering their essential support services.
To help address the growing issue of food waste while simultaneously helping communities and people in need, the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund was launched. We recognise that the impact of rising costs has made it harder for Welsh food businesses of all sizes to operate. This fund supports Welsh producers, growers, and manufacturers of all sizes to contribute their surplus, edible goods without incurring additional costs. The fund is designed to make it 100% cost-free for food businesses to do good with their surplus, and, once initial contact is made, can take on the management and administration of the entire process. For growers and farmers specifically, the SWP fund can cover the harvesting, labour, storage, packaging and transportation costs of surplus produce, making it easier to make a difference.
The Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund can be accessed by producers of all sizes, from large-scale manufacturers to smaller farms like Paviland Farm in Rhossili. FareShare Cymru recently worked with Paviland Farm, who had a large number of pumpkins after Halloween, and wanted to put them to good use. As a small farm, costs are critical, so they accessed the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund to make it costneutral to transport the pumpkins for distribution through our network of charities. Louise HarryThomas, from Paviland Farm commented on her experience of accessing the fund:
“After the peak season for pumpkins had passed, we were left with a large quantity that didn’t have a commercial Market. FareShare Cymru made it so easy to both donate the pumpkins to their network of charities, but also to cover the costs in transporting them up to Cardiff.
The scale of food waste in the Welsh food industry is staggering, with an estimated 2 million tonnes of the 3.6 million tonnes wasted annually still suitable for consumption. FareShare Cymru is committed to ensuring that discarding good, nutritious food is never more economical than donating it to those in need.
In order to keep supporting the work of local community groups and charities across wales, we want to work with the food industry to make use of their surplus food. Whether you are a large producer or a small farm like Paviland Farm, there are opportunities to contribute surplus food to those who need it most. By partnering with FareShare Cymru, food businesses can make a real impact on reducing food waste and supporting vulnerable communities.
To learn more, contact them today on 02920 362111, email swp@fareshare.cymru, or visit www.fareshare. cymru/surplus-with-purpose
With help from Cywain, Fungi Foods creates some mushroom magic
You may have been seeing an increase in popularity in medicinal mushrooms lately. From teas to supplements, or a tasty addition to a meal, all claim to have beneficial properties for your body and brain. Lion’s Mane, for example, exhibits disease-fighting properties as well as nerve protection from disease and decline. It has been used as a natural remedy for centuries across the globe, and, since 2022, it has been grown on a Welsh family farm in North Wales.
Gareth Griffith-Swain, founder of Fungi Foods, began his mushroom growing journey after his Taid’s sheep farm was handed down to his parents. Based in Waunfawr, Gareth saw an opportunity to diversify, and having a keen interest in Mycology, decided to start growing exotic mushrooms.
“I started on a proper shoestring budget,” He says, “In the beginning I was selling a kilo of mushrooms here and there to restaurants and cafes in Caernarfon, and just built up the business from there.”
With two sites, one in Waunfawr and one in Chwilog just outside Pwllheli, this business is introducing a whole new world of fungi to the UK.
Locally and sustainably grown, Fungi Foods, unlike other mainstream mushroom growers, focus on exotic fungi. Predominantly growing the distinctive Lion’s Mane, as well as some more recognisable names such as Shiitake and Oyster, Gareth says “We don’t focus on the traditional mushrooms you’d find in supermarkets. I always like to say - the weirder the better! We like to focus on the more obscure strains”
Not only is Lion’s Mane striking to look at, it can also help with a variety of ailments.
A recent article in Forbes [titled “Health Benefits Of Lion’s Mane”] discusses the Lion’s Mane mushroom exhibits disease-fighting properties. As well as nerve protection from disease and decline, it has been proven to regulate blood sugar, reduce high blood pressure and support heart health amongst a further list of benefits.
There are also further studies being conducted that explore Lion’s Mane mushrooms being used as potential alternatives to treat depression, as well as anxiety and stress.
Whether you take it as a supplement, as an ingredient in a dish, or brewed as a tea, there are many different
ways to consume Lion’s Mane.
“I can see the potential that mushrooms have”, says Gareth, “I can see we’re only scratching the surface in the UK, which is why it was an easy decision to start the business.”
Growing exotic mushrooms is not without its challenges, however, and Gareth has reached out to programmes such as Cywain, a food & drink business advisory service funded by the Welsh Government, to help.
“One of the biggest challenges with exotic mushrooms is access, as they have a very short shelf life. We needed to find a way of making the mushrooms more accessible. I approached Louise (McNutt) my Regional Growth Manager from Cywain with the concept of marketing and selling the mushrooms. We were put in touch with a design company through Cywain, who then went on to create our branding and packaging.
“This introduction of drying the crop has really helped in making the mushrooms more accessible to customers who may not know how to use them initially.”
The change in packaging has also meant that Fungi Foods could increase the shelf life of the mushrooms,
and subsequently get more opportunities to get the product out there.
“It’s been crucial.” says Gareth, “It’s what we pitched to Aldi, it’s what we went to the Blas Cymru trade event with, and so it’s been massively useful. Sometimes you just need someone to help you get over the line, and that’s what the help with the branding did for Fungi Foods.”
Following his trip to the Blas Cymru trade event at the end of 2023, where Fungi Foods was chosen as a Rising Star and given front-row access to some of the UK’s biggest buyers, the business struck a deal with upscale department store Selfridges.
“I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from the event, but I was honoured to be there, alongside some other great producers. It was great to chat with like minded people, who all seemingly have the same obstacles and worries. And of course, getting into Selfridges was an amazing outcome!”
As well as Selfridges, you may have recently spotted Gareth on Channel 4’s Aldi’s Next Big Thing, showcasing his unique products. He went on to win, beating 100s of other hopefuls, and from 8th May this year the dried Lion’s Mane has been proudly sitting on shelves in 1000 Aldi stores across the country.
“It’s pretty surreal to go from something really small, supplying a couple of restaurants in Caernarfon, to supplying a thousand stores!” He says, “It’s a lot of hard work, but it gives you that validation, that what you’re doing is right, and that’s a really good feeling.”
As with any business, it can be a tricky thing to navigate when you’re starting out.
“Another way the Welsh Government programme Cywain has helped me is through its network of experts,” says Gareth, “When you’re starting out, you get asked a lot of questions, with things like wholesale, deliveries, shelf life… It’s just a comfort to know you
have someone in your corner helping you out, who has experience with retailers.”
Relationships and support systems are of utmost importance when it comes to running a business, especially during busy periods.
Louise McNutt, Regional Growth Manager in Gareth’s area, says “It’s been great to see that Gareth’s willingness to push the business forward, to put the work in and try new and ambitious things is paying off.”
“He meets challenges head on and has overcome the inevitable stumbling blocks that startups can face by being open minded, creative and focusing on whichever tasks need to be met. Despite running a rapidly expanding business, Gareth always has time for a chat and it really is a pleasure to work with him.
“I’m excited to see the Fungi Foods range expanding and reaching new markets. It’s especially satisfying to see a healthy, functional, UPF product being so well received - if you haven’t tried the dried Lion’s Mane yet, you’re missing out!”
Once the dust settles after the influx of orders for Aldi, Gareth has plans to expand the range. “Everything has happened all at once, and of course I’m grateful, but now I’m hoping to take a step back and have a look at the direction we want to go in.”
“I am super grateful to the Cywain programme and Louise. There’s a real sense of care there - they genuinely care about your business and want you to do well.”
As well as the aforementioned places, you can also buy Fungi Foods on their website https://www.fungifoods. co.uk/
If you or someone you know is looking for support for their food and drink businesses in Wales, visit Cywain. Cymru
Intrigued? Here are some examples of ways to enjoy Lion’s Mane:
• Lion’s Mane Tea: This is the traditional method of consuming the mushroom, and an excellent way to extract its nutrients. Simply steep dried or fresh Lion’s Mane in hot water for around 20 minutes, and either enjoy it plain or add some honey, lemon or ginger for extra flavour!
• Fresh or Dried: These forms are great for sauteing, roasting, or grilling. The texture is often described as “meaty” or seafood-like, making them perfect for vegetarian or vegan dishes like stir-fries, pastas, or risottos. You can even try making “crab” cakes with them!
• Supplements: For convenience, Lion’s Mane can be prepared into powder, capsule or liquid form supplements, to easily incorporate into your daily routine. You can also mix the powder into coffee, smoothies, or soups.
e delicate buttery taste of lion’s mane mushroom makes it a perfect substitute for crab. Follow our Fungi Food recipe to make these delicious mushroomy delights!
• 200g Fresh Lion’s mane mushroom or 20g of Dried Lion’s Mane
• Fresh Lemon
• Parsley
• Panko Bread Crumbs
• Golden Bread Crumbs
• 1 Egg or Egg Replacer equivalent if vegan
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon white vinegar
• 2 tablespoons mayo (or vegan equivalent)
• 1 red onion
• 1 Lemon
• Parsley
1. Preheat your oven at 150*.
2. If using dried Lion’s Mane then rehydrate as instructed on back of pack.
3. Grab your lion’s mane and tear it up with you hands - follow the fibres of the mushrooms and it will pull apart easily. Keep the pieces small, no bigger the garlic cloves.
4. Add the lions mane into a bowl with a table spoon of olive oil and mix with your hands - you just want a light coating of oil as these mushrooms will soak it up.
5. Transfer the mushrooms onto a tray and place in the oven for 10 minutes. Keep an eye on the mushrooms giving a shake half way through to ensure even cooking.
6. While the mushrooms are cooking, mix together egg, soy sauce, vinegar, mayo and mix.Add the lions mane red onion, paprika, bread crumbs and squeeze half a lemon with a pinch of salt and pepper.
7. Once the ingredients are thoroughly mixed - form into small balls and then flatten into smallish cakes.
8. Add olive oil to a pan on a medium heat and fry crab cakes on 3 mins each side until golden.
9. Enjoy!
Parental guile and children’s nutrition are frequent bedfellows. My lovely late mum, clearly desperate in the Quorn-free Seventies to provide us with protein, convinced me and my also-vegetarian sister that sh ngers solely contained mashed potato. Momentarily furious when the scales fell from my eyes (soz) and a classmate nally disabused me of mum’s ruse, I believe it was ingenuity born of love: she was genuinely the best mum ever. But being a strict veggie will always be challenging. I was aghast to discover recently that a well-known US brand of dry-roasted peanuts contains gelatine. Eh? Nuts not sacrosanct? I ask you.
Worse still, is the unwelcome revelation that the cheese in the jarred pestos (pesti?) I’d been ladling supersize-wise on all my pious plants du jour (sic) contains (drum roll)… animal rennet. Extracted from the fourth stomach of unweaned calves, lambs and other ruminants, rennet is a by-product of slaughter and is thus clearly gut-wrenching for most staunch veggies. Why is it, in our label-conscious era, that very few mainstream supermarket pestos or their constituent cheeses, such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Parmesan, Pecorino or Grana Padano state Not Suitable for Vegetarians on their packaging? Ditto much Manchego. at’s just blatant hoodwinking in my book, tantamount to not labelling spirits as alcoholic. A further obfuscation is that the terms “vegan” and “vegetarian” are not currently de ned in food law, so manufacturers can out ingredient transparency with impunity.
I have, of course, tried many shop-bought plant-based pestos and animal-rennet-free cheeses. In most cases, they are just as tasty as their arguably cruel cousins. Asda’s Just Essentials Vegetarian cheese boasts a delicious outer crust and a near perfect-ten Parmesan taste mimicry. eir pepper-based and free-from pestos are both entirely cheese-free, the lack barely noticeable. Waitrose’s Go Veggie Italian hard cheese is a triumphal feat of fauxness, as pungent as any Padano. eir three vegetarian pestos are delicious and inventive, replacing pine nuts with cashews – a more a ordable trick for us all.
But, of course, none of the above are Welsh-produced. us began my quest to create an ethical pesto
alternative using an array of inimitable, award-winning Welsh cheeses, which use vegetarian rennet. Tom Pinder, a talented trombonist, has certainly hit the high notes by founding e Welsh Cheese Company, his inviting website listing which of his sixty championed cheeses are vegetarian. Clear winners in my homeblended pestos were Snowdonia’s Black Bomber and its cave-aged Rock Star, the strength of both jousting benignly with the basil. Each mouthful of the Rock Star blend, in a nod to its name, was like Tom Jones’ hips gyrating on my tongue. Pant Mawr’s Caws Cerwyn Mature and Blaenafon Cheddar Co’s Blorenge “Welsh style Parmesan” have rindy, quasi-carapace exteriors and the trademark density and kick of the pukka Parma creation: both pestos were punchy and perfect. Blaenafon hopes its Blorenge (not the mountain) may soon be accorded Protected Status. Bendigedig iawn. Caws Cenarth’s Caws Cryf, a consummate partner for pine nuts, is so achingly pungent, I swear I felt the goodness of Hywel Dda penetrating my palate. Lawmaker Hywel deemed our Welsh cheeses so important, he made them part of any divorce settlement. Beats getting the chamber pot any day.
Many producers creating an innocuous, compassionate rennet use a mould-derived microbial version. Some, mainly on the Iberian Peninsula, use a thistle-based version, invariably used for so cheeses. e most common type, FPC, aka Fermentation Produced Chymosin, is tricky for really principled esh-forgoers, as its ersatz chymosin, the enzyme needed to coagulate milk, derives from the original animal rennet. Even trickier, the exact type of vegetarian rennet is not listed on any of the cheeses, supermarket or artisan, so you have to contact the companies directly – or take a leap of faith. I’ll pin my own hypocritical colours to the mast here. As a lacto-cheese-chomping lass, I’m aware that the dairy and egg industries are not immune to dubious ethical practices. Being a “demivegan” (really?) does not a ord me the right to be sanctimonious or proselytising and my principles occasionally succumb to practicality. My plea is simply that all manufacturers are honest and detailed in their labelling. Just as I was when I disguised puréed broccoli stalks in my daughters’ apjacks. Food chicanery is widespread – but that doesn’t make it right.
Myfanwy enjoys a tour of one of Wales lesser known, but enthralling counties
There’s something strange about Radnorshire, arguably Wales’s least known county and I say this as an affectionate neighbour. As you drop down over Cider House, a new vista opens up, verdant, wooded and ripe for exploration but somehow, you know this is a land devoid of cliché where it is easy to believe that Wales’s last dragon lies sleeping. It’s primarily a farming area and the pastures which make it so easy on the eye produce top quality meat and dairy goods but the largest company in the county makes use of a resource which lies underneath the county’s grassy skin; water. It was the father of Radnor Hills founder William Watkins who discovered a source of water on his farm which he used to feed his cattle but it was too delicious not to share. William saw the potential of this top-quality product which is naturally rock filtered and since the launch in 1990, the company has not only become a leading supplier of bottled water but has branched out into a variety of drinks including the Heartsease Farm range. Though this brand is very familiar in cafes, heritage sites etc, I think it is undervalued as a top-quality mixer, but Heartsease would be my go-to for summer cocktails. Their flavours are authentic yet generous in scope: their ginger beer makes a top-quality Moscow Mule and their elderflower pressé, made with handpicked elderflowers complements Ludlow’s Navy Strength Gin. Radnor Hills also make sugar-free fruity drinks for children, ideal for family picnics.
William Watkins is also the owner of the Lion, a delightful riverside pub down the road at Leintwardene where I recently had supper. Local produce was very much to the fore, with the braised and pressed shoulders of lamb being a particular highlight. The Harissa spice lamb croquettes were full of flavour and my companion’s hake was simple, but spot on, like the unfussy service.
Not far the other side of Knighton, brothers Dani and Adam Davies are continuing the area’s tradition of cider and perry production at the gloriously named Skyborry Cottage. They also manage several other orchards in the local area, each producing their own distinctive naturally fermented ciders, including that
from Court of Noke, home of interior designer Edward Bulmer who springs from a very different cider tradition. Skyborry also produce limited quantities of apple juice. You can buy Skyborry produce at the Tinto deli in Presteigne and the Rhos Organic Farm Shop in Knighton, of which more anon, but the drinks are also a key part of the offering at Daphne’s, one of Presteigne’s most popular places to eat, which is run by Dani and his wife. Recently named by a survey for Sky News as one of the best places to eat for a reasonable price in Britain, Daphne’s pizzas, ambience and seasonal starters were singled out for particular mention by Michelin Green starred chef Mark Hugo. Based round an imaginative offering of pizza, Daphne’s offers much more, such as quirky puddings, including the delicately charming elderflower and cherry jelly and the nutty Toasted Buckwheat Ice-Cream, which was a new experience even for one as ice-cream savvy as me.
Any small town would be lucky to have one such Italian eatery, but Presteigne is very blessed. Wild Thyme is a smart yet unpretentious space where Italian traditions are observed with unusual lightness. One of my personal foodie goals has been to experience an asparagus risotto which really does justice to this exquisite summer delight. Friends, here on a sunny day in deepest Radnorshire, that dream came true. To me, the basic problem is that risotto is hearty and asparagus ethereal and, in the past, my experience has been like seeing a nymph on a motorcycle. The asparagus was paired with porcine but gentlemanly pancetta. My companion’s gnocchi were stratocumulusly light and served with a wild venison ragu more Bambi than Monarch of the Glen, again delivering delicacy and authenticity.
Near Wild Thyme is what must be one of Wales’ best and most unsung tearooms, Rose Cottage Café. The ambience is charming as might be expected in Presteigne and the service both relaxed and attentive, which is less usual than one might hope but the glory of the place is the cakes. An elderly gentleman was lurking by the cake display, muttering his mantra ‘always good, top class’ to all comers but he was
absolutely on the money. I played safe with a coffee and walnut sponge: simple done well is splendid and this was a great example of that principle. Good flavour, tender texture and smooth butter icing which was neither a meagre scrape nor a cloying bucketload, this was good cake but not quite enough to prevent my FOMO when I sampled the treats my companions had selected. Like many staples, a Bakewell tart can be dull and even slipshod, but the Rose Cottage Bakewell restores the classic status with a crisp, butter crust and a golden filling where almonds contributed texture as well as flavour with none of the afterburn of chemical essence which is such a blight. But even this Bakewell wasn’t the best: the apricot and almond tart nothing short of a triumph. Rose Cottage is also renowned for their lunches, a good variety of soups, ploughman’s pies and the ever-varied Buddha bowls.
Like many discerning Radnorians, the Rose Cottage team shop at Salty Jacks which, in keeping with the spirit of Presteigne is not only a fruit and vegetable shop with lots of excellent local produce, such as raspberries and strawberries from nearby Moorcourt but also hosts a supper club and sells a range of authentic home-made tapas dishes, including local lamb tagine tapa and slow cooked pork cheeks. Also on the High Street, the Tinto deli stocks a carefully selected range of high-quality exotic treats and local specialities. Having been subject to an intervention when I was told to ‘step away from the nougat,’ I treated myself to a hunk of Wild by Nature’s majestically beefy Pepperoncino which turns a simple pasta and cream cheese dish into a supper for heroes and, even more local, a couple of pains aux raisin from Presteigne’s Boulanger Artisan Bakery. When I got home and checked, I discovered that not only do they have impeccable food values and heritage but that I used to babysit proprietor Phoebe when her family lived in Montgomeryshire.
As if that were not enough human interest and baked goods combo stories for one day, I was buying a copy of a 1960s Ladybird book from a charming secondhand shop opposite the Judges’ Lodgings when I noticed the rather incongruent presence of a few remaining rolls on a table outside the shop. I snapped up the croissants and the two remaining ciabattini on appearance alone, before realizing these were from Alex Gooch, local boy made good. Gooch is now based in Cardiff and supplies delis and discerning restaurants
throughout South Wales and the Borders, but I was surprised to find such treasures next to the vintage clothing and the old books. But this is Radnorshire, so anything can happen.
Having ascertained that good bread is in plentiful supply, the next question is what to put on it. Local jam champions Radnor Preserves have won national renown for their chutneys, marmalades and jams, recently hitting gold again at the 2024 Cheeseboard Awards for their Smokey Campfire Marmalade, an evocative confection which artfully deploys Halen Mon’s Oak Smoked Water with the ruby grapefruit, oranges and lemons. They add in maple syrup for added complexity and end up with a product which, though delicious on toast, also harks back to the savoury roots of marmalade and makes a perfect glaze for grilled pork steaks. Their jams always have something extra, rose el hanout in the strawberry or cracked black pepper in the blackberry but my favourite is the blackcurrant and vanilla which lifts the most pedestrian sponge cake from banality and warmed slightly, can be stirred through ice-cream, homemade or good shop bought, to make a splendid ripple. If you can, keep some to serve with apple crumble in the autumn.
If Knighton can’t rival Presteigne for eccentricity, it has its own thriving food culture. The Rhos Organic Shop sells produce from their own market garden and provides their own twist on a veg box by delivering three sizes of bags to local collection points, allowing all types of households to access their freshly harvested treats. There are a good variety of pubs. such as the Horse and Jockey with its celebrated venison curry and cafes lie the Clock Tower Tearooms, where the Afternoon Tea has a homemade generosity which reminds me of cricket teas. Further out into the countryside, the Radnorshire Arms at Beguildy is said to have the best Sunday roast in Powys, which is saying something, the Harp at Old Radnor offers pub staples alongside chef’s modern dishes and if you long for the days when village life was centred on a place where beer was consumed, the Happy Union in picturesque Abbey Cwm Hir is just such a node. And they have been known to hold Pickled Onion contests at the Happy Union, an example other pubs should follow: if such a competition strikes any of the rest of us as well, a bit unusual, just bear in mind that this is Radnorshire.
Welsh red meat promotion body Hybu Cig Cymru – Meat Promotion Wales (HCC) is gearing up for another busy summer promoting Wales’ iconic Welsh red meat brands – PGI Welsh Lamb and PGI Welsh Beef.
HCC’s recent Welsh Beef – Naturally Local campaign reached over 1.5million people over the Autumn and Winter months. e campaign featured real Welsh Beef farmer stories across a range of marketing channels including: television, radio, printed advertising, outdoor advertising, social media and digital advertising, all bearing successful results for Hybu Cig Cymru, Welsh farmers and the wider Welsh Beef sector.
Results from the campaign show that 85 per cent of adults in Wales were familiar with the Welsh Beef brand and the campaign increased their willingness to purchase by 21 percentage points, demonstrating a positive impact from the advertising.
As Welsh Lamb comes into its peak season of availability, HCC will now be turning its attention to the Welsh Lamb – Experts in their Field campaign. e campaign features farmers from across Wales and champions Welsh farmers as the ‘experts’ in producing high-quality and environmentally sustainable lamb.
Ben Williams from Cardi in south Wales, Emily Jones from Tregaron in mid Wales and Alwyn Phillips from Caernarfon in north Wales all feature as ‘Experts in their Fields’.
e campaign is being launched at the pinnacle event in the Welsh food and farming calendar – e Royal Welsh Show. Keep an eye out for advertisements on ITV, S4C and across digital channels as the campaign comes into full swing from July onwards. In addition to advertisements and campaigns, HCC are also working closely with the health and education sectors and are launching new newsletters targeting teachers to share evidence-based information around red meat and balanced diets. e Kitchen Classroom is a new, bilingual newsletter aimed speci cally at primary and secondary school teachers and educators, containing HCC’s latest teaching resources, classroomfriendly recipes and the latest research and information about red meat.
To sign up, head to www.redmeathub.wales
Supermarket giants Aldi have joined other Welsh retailers, including Waitrose, M&S, Tesco, Lidl and
Asda, by stocking award-winning and locally-made Castle Dairies Welsh Spreadable Butter (500g) in 32 of their stores across Wales.
e Caerphilly family-run business, which has been churning cream for over y years, was thrilled to announce the return of its Welsh Spreadable Butter to Aldi stores across Wales a er overwhelming customer demand.
“We are excited to bring back our beloved Welsh Spreadable butter to Aldi shoppers in Wales,” said Nicola Pretty, Head of Brand and Development at Castle Dairies. “ is partnership allows us to share our passion for quality and tradition with a broader audience, o ering a taste of Wales to kitchens across the country.”
A much-prized traditional salted Welsh spreadable, which contains Welsh butter, is made from only the nest natural ingredients. Welsh Cream is carefully churned, and hand salted to produce a sumptuously creamy and well-balanced salty spreadable butter that spreads straight from the fridge.
www.castledairies.co.uk
Pembrokeshire Creamery, the leading supplier of Welsh milk, has o cially launched its cuttingedge milk processing facility, marking a signi cant milestone in its mission to bring ‘fully Welsh’ milk to Welsh consumers.
e dairy is the only BRCGS-accredited liquid milk facility in Wales, meaning it is the only facility able to supply major retailers in Wales with Welsh milk, so reducing food miles, increasing supply chain e ciency, creating new skilled jobs, and supporting local farming communities.
Pembrokeshire Creamery, which has created around eighty new jobs, has the capacity to bottle more than a million litres of milk a week and has recently announced major deals to supply own-branded milk to Asda and Lidl stores across Wales.
“We’re creating new markets with major retailers for authentic Welsh milk which in turn is helping us complete our mission to deliver sustainably-sourced Welsh milk, bottled right here in Wales while o ering a fair and transparent price to farmers,” says managing director Mark McQuade.
www.pembrokeshirecreamery.com
Melin Tregwynt was founded by Henry Griffiths, who bought the mill in 1912 and for over 100 years this family company has continued the traditions of Welsh weaving.
Beautiful, useful, and that little bit special. Contemporary yet steeped in history our weaves can be found in design led stores and hotels around the world.
In 2022 to preserve its unique legacy, to protect skills and jobs, and to safeguard its heritage, the company became an Employee Owned Trust ensuring that all the staff have a stake in the business.
Our shop and café are open 7 days a week. We use local Welsh produce and are open for breakfast, light snacks, lunch, tea with locally baked cakes, and great coffee with a changing range of seasonal specials.
Melin Tregwynt, Castlemorris, Haverfordwest, Pembs, SA62 5UX
T +44 (0)1348 891 225 E info@melintregwynt.co.uk W melintregwynt.co.uk
Woven in Wales. melintregwynt.co.uk
A new managing director has been appointed at Radnor Hills, Wales’ largest so drinks producer. Simon Knight o cially took up the role at the Knighton-based company in June, while his predecessor William Watkins – who founded the business in 1990 – became CEO.
Simon has worked as a consultant for Radnor for the past two years a er being recommended by the Welsh Government. He has over 30 years of experience in the FMCG industry, with roles including sales and marketing director for premium snacks brand Burts Snacks, helping to drive the business from an £11m to a £57m turnover. He has also worked for Mars Wrigley.
“I’m thrilled to be joining Radnor at such an interesting time,” says Simon. “We have a great range of brands and lots of exciting new product developments in the pipeline.
“Radnor is fast-growing and independent and has maintained a refreshingly agile way of working. I really like William’s ethos of continual investment in the company which allows it to ourish and grow.”
www.radnorhills.co.uk
A staple of the Wales foodie calendar, the Amgueddfa Cymru Food Festival is set to return to St Fagans National Museum of History on September 7-8 with an exciting line-up of the nest food stalls, live music and lots of fun for all ages.
e museum will come alive with over eighty food, drink and cra stalls nestled among the historic buildings. ere will be live music on Gwalia Green and – from making butter to discovering what shopping was like in the 1920s – visitors can enjoy taking a step back in time at some of the museum’s most iconic buildings.
Family-friendly activities, from cookery demos in the historic houses to circus skills, will be held in di erent locations across the museum and food will range from traditional Welsh fare to delicious street snacks. e museum will stay open until 6pm on both days and entry is free.
www.museum.wales/whatson/food-festival
e team at Aber Falls Distillery in Abergwyngregyn were thrilled to hear that their Single Malt Welsh Whisky was awarded Gold at the International Spirits Challenge 2024. As the ISC explains “ Winning an ISC award is indeed an impressive achievement for any
spirit that passes the scrupulous blind assessment from our experienced panel of specialist judges”.
But that’s not all they’ve they won recently. eir Limited Edition Rye Whisky was awarded a Silver award at the IWSC 2024 (International Wine and Spirit Competition).
e judges said that the rye whisky was “Subtle, fruit forward and charming, the nose o ers aromas of bright fruit and orange juice. e palate is attractive and so fruit, owers and cinnamon toast. So nish.” Hats o to Aber Falls.
www.aberfallsdistillery.com
Cheese
Established in 2004, made to a single recipe and created on rm principles to deliver the nest quality product with a distinctive long and powerful taste, Collier’s Cheddar Cheese is celebrating its 20th anniversary.
Founder Chris Swire was inspired by his family’s own coal-mining background to create a cheese synonymous with the strength and power of the men it was named a er.
“I always remember my grandmother would make lunches for my grandfather and his son to take down the mines the following day,” he recalls. “She would then pack those in a tommy box to protect them from the rodents down the mines.
“ ose llings had to o er something to the guy who worked underground. at something was a good, strong taste. Collier’s has a particular taste and we were the rst people to introduce this balance between savoury and slight sweetness, that slow release and very long and deep character.”
Collier’s are celebrating their milestone with a special pack design and working with the Colliers Choir who are touring supermarket stores in Wales to sing e Colliers Cheddar song.
www.collierscheese.com
e 26th Abergavenny Food Festival will take place over the weekend September 21-22 when Robert Price sponsors the Kitchen Stage in the Market Hall which will host top chefs from across the UK.
e line-up will include Wales’s own Chris Harrod of e Whitebrook; Jonathan Woolway, (ex-chef director of the Michelin-Starred St John Restaurant Group), now back in Swansea with his newest venture, e Shed, and Gwenann Davies, head chef at the legendary gastropub, e Felin Fach Gri n.
Two events take place in the revamped Borough eatre: On Saturday, Jay Rayner, award-winning writer, journalist and broadcaster, will be talking to Tim Hayward about his rst cookbook ‘Nights Out At Home: Recipes and Stories from 25 years as a restaurant critic’.
en on the Sunday, Tom Parker Bowles will li the curtain on Royal kitchens past and present when he discusses his new book, Cooking and e Crown: Royal Recipes from Queen Victoria to King Charles III with Matt Tebbutt.
www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com
South Caernarfon Creameries has recently secured a lucrative deal with the Co-op to supply over a hundred of their grocery stores across Wales with their awardwinning Dragon Mature Cheddar cheese.
is marks a signi cant milestone for the Dragon brand, which has been celebrated for its exceptional quality and taste, earning 17 awards at prestigious food awards last year. e Dragon cheese range is known for its rich avour and Welsh heritage, being made using milk sourced 100 per cent from Welsh farming members. Wales’s oldest and largest dairy co-operative, has been farmer-owned since 1938.
Michael Mort, national account manager, said: “We are proud to partner with Co-op, a retailer that shares our values of community and quality. is expansion allows us to reach more customers by supplying 106 stores with our 350g Dragon Mature Cheddar. We estimate around 15 tonnes a year of Dragon Cheddar being delivered o ering shoppers a true taste of Wales.
“Our collaboration represents a union of values, where we share the same commitments to quality, community and sustainability – two co-operatives coming together united in purpose.” www.dragonwales.co.uk
Cygnet Gin, launched last year by classical singer Katherine Jenkins and artist Andrew Levitas, continues its sparkling rise. e award-winning brand achieved its most recent industry gold medals at the Global Gin Masters 2024 Awards for both Cygnet 22 and Cygnet Welsh Dry Gin. ese accolades follow gold awards from the IWSC 2024 for both Cygnet 22 and Cygnet Welsh Dry Gin & Tonic.
Created using the nest botanicals and purest Welsh water, Cygnet 22 also achieved gold and signature botanicals for Wales at this year’s Global Gin Awards and Global Best Design Award for its striking and sustainable bottle. www.cygnet-distillery.com museum.wales
There can be a tendency amongst foodies, and foodie media, to focus on high-end fine dining and celebrity chefs. Understandably so - it’s the glamorous, flagwaving side of what we do and chefs like Gareth Ward, Shaun Hill and James Sommerin have succeeded in putting Wales on the culinary map. But, if there’s a level where the plight of Welsh food and drink, its producers and restaurateurs, will be determined, it’s actually not at the rarified realms of Michelin stars – the volumes are just too small, and it simply isn’t relevant to most people. It’s the more mass appeal strata such as gastro pubs and restaurants such as The Welsh House that will be the difference between success or not.
Increasing numbers of restaurants have a few Welsh products or dishes on their menu, realising it helps customer loyalty and the bottom line. The Welsh House, with its three outlets in Cardiff, Neath and Swansea, has taken this philosophy a huge step further. All the dishes are Welsh inspired and/or use Welsh produce as key ingredients with menus including staples such as Cawl, Welsh Lamb and Cockles for example, and many well-known Welsh brands, which is exactly what we want to see. But does the reality live up to the promise?
We rocked up in the Cardiff branch to find out. Set on the High Street, there’s a lovely, distinctly European
vibe courtesy of dark wood, red upholstered furniture, soft lighting and tables that spill outside. Our nibbles, of miniature savoury Welsh cakes set the tone. Golden brown, light and fluffy bombs of leek and Welsh cheddar goodness, served with creamy Shirgar Welsh butter, they were outstanding. The aperitif cocktails, a sumptuously warming but fresh Barti Ddu Spiced Mojito, replete with Heartsease Ginger Beer, and a sweet, zesty Cygnet Swansong raised the already high bar of expectation even further.
I opted for the Potted Pork with Carmarthen Ham and Celtic Preserves’ Piccalilli for my starter. Presented in a dinky glass pot, the perfectly seasoned and spiced, moist, shredded pork, was a gutsy triumph, elevated as it was by sweet, dusky flakes of air-cured, Carmarthen ham and the tangy chunky piccalilli. B’s creamy garlic mushrooms may, in principle, be an 80’s throwback, but there the similarity ends. Sat on a chunky slice of toasted sourdough, the abundant mushrooms were spared the usual inundation of cream but liberally sprinkled with Pembrokeshire Gold’s divine garlic, cold-pressed, rapeseed oil and pea shoots to create a wonderful, modern, take on a classic. This lovely fare was all washed down by a characterful, aromatic Siegerrebe white from White Castle Vineyard in Monmouthshire. A very interesting and enjoyable wine, quite unlike ubiquitous Sauvignons and Chablis’ and well worth tracking down.
For mains, I kept it simple with a Welsh PGI rump steak, knowing that a steak is often a good measure of a restaurant. It didn’t disappoint – tender, juicy, perfectly cooked with a well seared crust, and full of flavour, accompanied by crisp on the outside, fluffy inside, triple cooked chips. B’s on-trend macaroni cheese had a distinctly Welsh twist courtesy of a generous helping of blue Perl Las, which took the cheese hit to another level entirely. It had a great combination of texture too with al dente pasta, a creamy sauce and a satisfyingly crunchy parmesan and breadcrumb crust topped with a lovely Welsh soft-boiled egg.
On to puds. Welsh House’s nod to bread and butter pudding uses Bara Brith and was a (tea?) total triumph – light, almost sponge-like, texture, heavy with winter spices, dried fruit and orange peel, and a hint of tea. B’s strawberry granita was zesty and sharp balanced by a gentle sweetness from the fresh strawberries – best described as a delicious, grown-up strawberry split. The Welsh House aren’t in the business of Michelin stars – the focus is on good honest food, often with a twist, prepared with skill and flair, that celebrates Wales and shows what can be done, affordably, with great Welsh produce.
The Welsh House 5A High Street Cardiff CF10 1AW 029 2280 6067
www.thewelsh-house.co.uk
The rolling foothills at the southern tip of Eryri are not the backdrop you might expect for a high-quality Indian restaurant, let alone one run by a former Bollywood star. However, that is exactly what greeted us on our visit to Indiana at Plas Talgarth holiday resort, a new venture for restaurateur, Mayur Vema (known as Raj) and chef, Noorie, who just happens to be Raj’s wife. Raj, the most convivial of hosts, welcomed us into their new restaurant, a lavish Asian spectacle that looks out over a magnificent view of Welsh mountains, framed by enormous picture windows. A wonderful juxtaposition.
Noorie mixes and grinds all the spice herself and unsurprisingly, the couple need to work hard to source some of the more exotic ingredients needed in the local area. Raj explained that Noorie’s recipes are dishes that would be prepared in a traditional Indian home and would feel very different from the more westernised versions. He wasn’t wrong. My starter of gently spiced chicken tikka was a first for me - the pleasingly original addition of mint really elevated the seared, moist chicken. B was presented with an enormous platter of vegetable pakoras; the mushroom, spinach, cauliflower and onion within, all exquisitely al dente and contrasting brilliantly with the crisp and warmly spiced batter.
On to mains. The beautifully ornate burners on our table were crowned with a banquet of sizzlingly appetising dishes. I stayed with chicken but was presented with two dishes that could not have been more different; the Chicken Methi was deeply savoury but still fresh and herby, with fenugreek offering up aniseed tones that lingered, pleasingly, long after the last mouthful. And then the Chicken Bhuna, which delivered an awesome spicy kick. Cooked in a thick, satisfying tomato sauce it was a perfect justification of Noorie’s determination to work with the best, freshest spices, with cardamon, garlic, ginger, chilli and more besides in abundance.
The vegetarian offerings were equally well received. A hearty stew-like dish, filled with tandoor-cooked smoked aubergine that melted in the mouth. It was totally new to us and absolutely delicious. Alongside was a cauliflower and potato dish, equally tasty, but this was fresh and buttery and oh so delicately spiced. The Dhal Tadka was their ideal companion, so silky that the lentils dissolved in our mouths. And then, following a special request, I was given my absolute favourite Indian dish, Sag Aloo. This was like no other Sag Aloo I have tasted, so luxuriously creamy that if it wasn’t for the tell-tale spice, you may have thought it came from a cordon bleu French kitchen. What a treat! Our mains were accompanied by wonderfully fragrant pilau rice, the fluffiest naan either of us had ever experienced (apparently Noorie manages this without adding egg) and delicately light, thin chapati. Without exception the dishes were delicious, their perfectly balanced spices allowing the core ingredients to shine. As the evening sun turned the surrounding hills to
gold, Raj told us something of the couple’s fascinating story. Having moved to London, they struggled with the idea of bringing up children in a community that lauded Raj’s celebrity status. The couple wanted a quieter life for their family and so decided to move to Wales. Noorie’s flare and passion for cooking, alongside Raj’s conviviality gave them the idea they needed for their new business, to bring authentic Indian cooking to mid Wales, first to the small sea-side community of Fairbourne and now to the magnificent setting of Plas Talgarth. Raj explained, ‘The beautiful people of Wales have given me so much that I can confidently call this my final destination’.
As the shadows lengthened, we rounded off our meal with two traditional Indian deserts; Gulab Jamoon, a delicious concoction of rich, syrupy sponge and nutty ice cream that is apparently served at all quality Indian weddings; and Jalebi, a vibrantly coloured and wonderfully sweet way to end our meal. Indiana is an unusual restaurant for us to review in TB, but we can confidently say that with the warm Indian-Welsh welcome we received and the beautifully prepared and expertly cooked dishes we enjoyed, we will definitely be returning.
Indiana Cuisine, Plas Talgarth Resort, Pennal, Machynlleth SY20 9JY 07545 181070
www.indianacuisinewales.co.uk
Open to the public, 6-10pm everyday except Monday
Prep time – 20 mins
Cook time – 4 hrs 30 mins
Serves – 5+
Ingredients
• 1 PGI Welsh Lamb shoulder joint
• 5 garlic cloves, boiled in water for 10 minutes
• Handful of fresh basil leaves (about 15 leaves)
• Salt
For the salad:
• 5 spring onions, roughly sliced
• 1 head of fennel, roughly chopped
• 5 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly diced
• Salt
• 50ml olive oil (good quality)
• 50ml balsamic vinegar (good quality)
• 2 aubergines
• 150g rocket
• 1 ciabatta loaf
Method
1. Preheat the smoker. It will be ready when
the coals are just dying down and the temperature has reached 120°C.
2. To prepare the lamb, make five randomly spaced incisions on the skin side of the shoulder.
3. Push one blanched garlic clove and basil leaf into each of the incisions. (Blanching the garlic beforehand gives a more mellow flavour).
4. Sprinkle plenty of salt over the lamb, ensuring it gets into the incisions – this helps to season while it cooks.
5. Place the lamb (with the incisions facing up) onto the grill in the smoker. It will need to cook for 4-5 hours.
6. Meanwhile prepare the salad. Add the spring onions, fennel, tomatoes, a good pinch of salt, the olive oil and the balsamic vinegar to a large mixing bowl. Mix well. Cover the salad with cling film and leave to marinade in the fridge. The acidity of the vinegar will marry all the flavours together.
7. After the lamb has been cooking for about 1 hour, place the aubergines on the grill next to the lamb.
8. Take the aubergines off the grill after 1 – 2 hours. They should have a smoky
appearance and reduced in size a little.
9. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways then scrape the flesh out onto a chopping board. Add a pinch of salt to the aubergine flesh, chop it and place onto a large serving platter. Set aside.
10. Take the salad out of the fridge and add the rocket. Roughly chop the remaining basil leaves and add to the salad. Mix well and season to taste.
11. The lamb should be ready after 4 – 5 hours of cooking. If possible, check the temperature with a probe – for well done, slow cooked lamb that will easily come off the bone, the recommended core temperature for the meat is around 68°C and 72°C.
12. Carefully take the lamb out of the smoker – it should have reduced in size a little and crispy on the corners, with the meat easily falling away from the bone. Place onto the serving platter with the bread, salad and chopped aubergine. Sprinkle a little more salt on top of the lamb if you like.
From eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com/ recipes
Prep time – 20 mins
Cook time – 2 hrs 30 mins
Serves – 5+
• 1 tbsp oil
• 650g pork collar or shoulder, trimmed and large diced
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tbsp Ras el Hanout
• 400g can of chopped tomatoes
• 600ml pork or vegetable stock
• 75g sultanas
• 75g dried apricots, quartered
• 400g can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 100g couscous
• 15g toasted flaked almonds
• 1 orange, rind and juice
• a handful of fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
Slow-cooked pork tagine with couscous, chickpeas and fruit. Topped with mint and almonds.
1. This recipe is suitable for slow cooking on the hob or in the oven; if oven cooked preheat the oven 180°C / 160°C fan / Gas 5.
2. Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the diced pork until browned. Remove from the pan.
3. In same pan, fry the onions and garlic until lightly browned. Add the meat back into the pan.
4. Add the spice and stir for a few minutes, then add the tomatoes, stock, sultanas and apricots. Transfer into a lidded saucepan if simmering on the hob or into a lidded ovenproof dish if cooking in oven.
5. Cook for 1½ – 2 hours until the meat is tender.
6. Remove the lid and add the couscous, chickpeas and orange. Continue to cook until all the liquid has been absorbed – for approximately 20 minutes.
7. Serve sprinkled with chopped mint and flaked almonds.
From porcblasus.cymru/recipes
Prep time - 10 mins
Cook time - 10 mins
Serves - 4
• Beef rump steak
• 100g quinoa, cooked
• 160g tender stem broccoli
• 2 oranges
• 100g spinach
• 40g blanched hazelnuts
• 1 tbsp honey
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste
1. Juice one orange into a bowl and mix in with the honey, olive oil and salt and pepper. Use half of the mixture to marinate the steak, and save the other half for the quinoa.
2. Lightly steam the broccoli until just cooked and mix in a bowl with the cooked quinoa, remainder of the marinade and spinach leaves. Meanwhile, toast the hazelnuts in the pan for a few minutes before chopping them.
3. Season the steak with salt and pepper and cook in a pre-heated and oiled frying pan to your preference. Remove from the pan and leave to rest for a few minutes before cutting into thin slices.
4. Peel and slice the other orange and serve over the salad mixture. Finish the salad by adding the steak and hazelnuts and serve warm.
From eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com/ recipes
• 4 x 200g pieces skinned cod loin
• 250g cannellini beans, soaked overnight
• 50ml olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 4 cloves
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 2 chorizo sausages, thinly sliced
• 4 rashers streaky, smoked bacon
• 100g black pudding, diced
• 50g tomato purée
• 200g belly pork
• ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Method
1. Place the belly pork and beans in a large
pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 20 mins.
2. Drain and discard the liquid. Return the pan to the heat and add the olive oil.
3. Chop up the belly pork and throw it in along with the chorizo, smoked bacon, carrot, onion and garlic. Cook this for a further 8 minutes until the chorizo juices start to be released.
4. Add the beans, paprika, tomato purée and cover with water, cooking until the beans are soft (you’ll need to keep adding water in small amounts).
5. 10 minutes before the beans are cooked, add the black pudding and reduce the mix to a stew-like consistency. Season with salt and pepper.
6. Remove from the heat and stir through the flat-leaf parsley.
7. Place the cod on a baking tray and brush with olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake for 8-10 minutes at 180°C.
8. To serve, spoon the bean mix into four warmed bowls, and place one baked cod loin on top of each.
Recipe from North Wales Fish & Seafood, by Cai Ross and Toby
Photography by Huw Jones. Published by Graffeg. £11.99, or £7.99 using Taste24 order code discount at checkout, from www.graffeg.com
A delicious dessert which can be prepared ahead and removed from the freezer 30 minutes before serving. The addition of yogurt makes a lighter pudding.
Serves 6-8
• 300ml double cream
• 2 tbsp local honey
• vanilla pod seeds
• zest 1 orange and 2 tablespoons juice
• 200g natural yogurt with honey
• 70g Amaretti biscuits (about 16) plus 3 whole to decorate
• 2 large egg whites
• 250g blackberries
• 1 tablespoon caster sugar
• 2 tablespoons sloe gin (optional)
1. Line a 1litre loaf tin or dish with enough clingfilm to completely wrap the parfait.
2. Put the cream, honey, vanilla seeds, the orange zest and juice in a bowl and whisk until firm before folding in the yogurt and biscuits.
4. Before serving transfer to the fridge to slowly defrost.
5. Put the blackberries and sugar in a saucepan over a moderate heat and carefully stir until it starts to cook but with the fruit still holding their shape. Remove from the heat and add the gin then leave to cool and serving with the parfait.
3. Put the egg whites in another dish with a pinch of salt and whisk until firm then fold into the mixture. Pour into the tin and wrap well then freeze for at least 5 hours or overnight.
Recipe from ‘Welsh Food by Season’ by Nerys Howell, pics by Phil Boorman Published by Y Lolfa
Cardigan’s In the Welsh Wind has been working towards this point since inception. Founder’s Ellen Wakelam and Alex Jungmayr’s original vision was always to create a great single malt whisky that was 100% Welsh. From harvesting Welsh barley, through distillation, maturation, bottling and distribution. This isn’t to say that their gins, vodkas and rum play second fiddle – they don’t and are fine examples and a key factor in the company’s success. But the dream was always the whisky.
And that day has arrived. In late Spring, In The Welsh Wind released their very first whisky - a limited edition of 673 bottles matured in Palo Cortado casks, a sherry that ITWW have experience of from aging their limited edition Palo Cortado premium gin.
Its pale colour belies a rich, complex flavour profile. On the nose, it’s a cornucopia of honey, Christmas spices, molasses and dried fruit. None dominate but they work in perfect harmony to tease the senses and build anticipation. On the palate, despite being 47% it’s smooth and elegant, with those nose flavours softened and expanded to include vanilla, oak and a buttery richness. A splash of water releases even more subtleties – I got a little dark chocolate, coffee smokiness. It’s a lovely complex whisky quite unlike anything we’ve tried before.
Sad to say, this limited-edition release has already sold out. But there will be more to come so, if fine whisky is your thing, now is the time to register your interest for the next release. You won’t regret it.
www.inthewelshwind.co.uk
A recent impromptu visit to Penylan Pantry (a little pocket of West London in Cardiff as my daughter refers to it) had an unexpected little bonus. While browsing in a partially hidden fridge, I spotted a vacuum pack of sausages from a West Walian producer I’d not come across before. Worth a go I figured. I’m a big fan of chorizo sausages and, as I discovered when I got on my pc, there’s an interesting back story.
Llandysul based Myrddin Heritage is Owen and Tanya, whose love of pigs stretches back to two pet pigs given to Owen on his 23rd birthday. A couple of years later they quit the rat race to travel to Australia to learn how to run a pig farm and make pork products, returning to Wales in 2017. They now have a small farm and sell a range of handmade, preservative free products from their own free-range saddle-back pigs.
A couple of hours later the sausages were out of the pan, and served alongside, appropriately, a Spanish Omelette, I handily already had in the fridge.
They simply ooze quality. With great texture and lovely fatty flavour from the pork, in harmony with paprika, seasoning and very gentle heat, they’re sausage perfection. No one element is overpowering – they all work together to elevate the humble banger to something worthy of the highest table. I can’t wait to check out more piggy offerings from Myrddin.
www.myrddinheritage.wales
Food waste is one of our biggest, but most preventable global problems and Karina and Maciek of Flawsome are determined to do their best to reverse it. The Cwmbran-based social enterprise works directly with farmers, taking their ‘wonky’ or surplus fruit and veg to turn into delicious and healthy drinks; good for the globe and good for us. We sampled Flawsome’s 100% cold-pressed fruit juices, each recycled glass bottle explaining how many pieces of fruit the juice ‘saved’. All were gloriously flavoursome. The Sweet and Sour Apples is beautifully smooth, sweet but tangy and so full of real fruit that it needs a shake to wake it. The Apples and Strawberries is perfectly balanced, bursting with a strawberriness that stands its grounds alongside the robust apple. The jewel-like, ruby-red Apples and Superberries has a subtle sweetness and gentle sharpness that is extremely refreshing, while the Apples and Mangos, with its mocktail-like feel, brings a deliciously tropical note. Finally, we tried the Oranges. Wow! Totally zesty. An invigorating start to anyone’s day.
www.flawsomedrinks.com
Roman coins found on site suggest that crystal clear water has been drawn from the spring on Parc yr Odyn Farm for centuries. Dafydd Thomas and family have long been drawing and bottling the spring water, but more recently have been using this incredible natural resource as a key ingredient in the Anglesey Môn Distillery range of spirits. The spirits, including whisgi, brandy, vodka and gins, are bottled at source and have their own unique character, thanks to the mineralrich water. And for the gins, the family insist on botanicals from the island. We tried the Raspberry Gin with tonic. A subtle, grown-up drink with a delicate aroma, gently fruity but not too sweet. Flavoured gins can sometimes be overpowering, but we loved this bittersweet concoction. And we’re looking forward to trying it in cocktails as the summer properly kicks in.
www.angleseyspring.co.uk
A desire to create the perfect Welsh cuppa has been this family-run firm’s driving force for the last thirty years. Having scoured the globe, seeking ingredients that flawlessly complement our wonderful Welsh water, their growing range of teas, coffees, infusions and even hot chocolate, shows they have succeeded in their mission. And when better to sample this Gower-based company’s offerings than while watching the Wales Air Show over beautiful Swansea Bay.
We began with the Green Tea, punchy, flavourful and bursting with health-giving phytophenols. Then onto the Mixed Berry, a beautifully fragrant infusion, refreshing when hot and more so when chilled. Minty’s Morrocan was our post-lunch digestif, zingy and invigorating, an antidote to the post-lunch-dip! Later as the Red Arrows entertained us, we enjoyed a pot of Welsh Brew Gold. A proper cuppa, beautifully mellow and with a lovely depth of flavour. Once the show was over and darkness fell, we rounded off the evening with the luxurious Hot Chocolate, deep, rich and comforting. Chocs Away!
www.welshbrewtea.co.uk
The historic bond between South Wales and Italy, which has ice cream at its heart, is personified by Mario Dallavalle. This third-generation ice-cream maker combines traditional Italian techniques with top-quality Welsh milk and double-cream (locally sourced from Carmarthenshire’s Cwm Farm Dairy) to create multi-award winning, luxurious ice cream. With so many varieties on offer, we chose to sample just four, starting with the all-time classic, Vanilla. It’s subtly elegant flavour beautifully complemented its creamy, smooth texture. The perfect accompaniment to any pudding, but also delightful on its own. Next up, Raspberry Ripple, a blast from the past that did not disappoint. Creamy vanilla with a sweet-sharp berry syrup, deliciously reminiscent of seaside holidays. Then the Salted Caramel, a flawlessly balanced combination of sweet, rounded caramel tones, cut through with a salty sharpness. Gorgeous! And finally, the Bueno. A perfect symphony with hazelnutchocolate rippling through cool white chocolate ice cream, finished with a gentle nutty-crunch. Delizioso!!
www.mariosicecream.com
Now, here’s something you don’t see every day. Garlic oil, Chilli Oil, Basil Oil? Yep, common as muck. But Coffee oil? For eating? It’s a new one on us. So, we were intrigued from the get-go.
It’s the brainchild of Dr Rosie Oretti from Penarth based Grounds for Good, who’s been steadily building a business empire around repurposing the inordinate amount of ground coffee that’s historically ended up in landfill.
Turns out this once used coffee has a lot more life in it, and Rosie has already found some ingenious ways to make use of it, not least a coffee infused gin that’s packaged in recyclable cardboard.
To make the oil, Grounds for Good have teamed up with Pembrokeshire Gold, who make wonderful coldpressed rapeseed oil from their own crops. The result is a revelation and not at all what one would expect. It helps to have such good quality oil as a base, but the real star is what the ever so subtle coffee adds to the oil. Whilst it’s possible to detect the taste of coffee, it’s nuanced and brings with it so many other delicate flavours – nuts, oregano, cinnamon, bergamot. The result is a versatile oil that adds depth to salad, is great to cook with and is the perfect dip pairing for the tang of sourdough bread. And not only is it a great addition to your larder, but all profits also go to The Wallich homeless charity.
www.groundsforgood.co.uk
There’s a theme that runs through Castell Howell’s own range of products. They do things properly. Their old school approach is based on quality and value and is evident as soon as you set eyes on their Welsh-made Real Tidy Like pasties. The first thing that strikes you is the size. They’re substantial – clearly intended to be a proper meal and not a light snack and will sate a big appetite. This is a good thing. Most pasties nowadays are pretty lightweight and you’re hungry again within the hour – not with these beasts. The second is the lovely golden colour and plump shape – we often eat with our eyes afterall – and indicative of what’s to come.
At first bite, there’s a solid crunch to the pastry but it gives way to a flaky, light consistency that’s somewhere between a puff and shortcrust in texture. With its buttery flavour, it’s pretty darn perfect. On to the fillings, which betray Castell Howell’s rooted farming background. They don’t skimp – the meat is plentiful, high-quality and Welsh, where possible, the veg is hearty and the gravy and flavours extremely satisfying. The lamb and mint was rich and intense, the steak and veg, more delicate with an earthy, rustic feel. The corned beef was a top take on a classic. The creamy chicken, leek and bacon was a great balance of bold flavours whilst the equally creamy leek, cheese and potato proved an excellent upgrade to the usual cheese and onion. My tasting ‘team’ likened the experience to having proper home-made soup, rather than a massmanufactured tin – which sums it up perfectly. If you could make them at home, you’d want your pasties ‘tidy, like’.
www.castellhowellfoods.co.uk
Even a er a gloomy wet spring, we cannot resist the lure of outdoor eating. Almost everything tastes better out of doors, and it is a small logical step from eating al fresco to cooking there. We have all endured those barbeques under leaden skies where a host in a comedy apron is waving compensatory huge tongs around as they incinerate gristle bag sausages over an ashy bin lid but these days, I observe some very encouraging trends in outdoor eating which might get you rethinking your reluctance to accept such invitations.
e rst of these is the ‘less is more’ sausage sizzle. As barbeques have become increasingly complex, involving numerous salads, homemade sourdough epis and a variety of meats which would defeat a hungry lion, some of the very informality which made it the ideal way to gather a big gang of friends has been lost. Hence the need for an event where expectations are managed down from the sort of event Louis XIV would have held in the gardens of Versailles had he only gained access to kebab sticks. At a sausage sizzle, the sausages are the star and therefore this is axiomatically no time for a value brand. If you are not lucky enough to have a good local butcher, obviously the long-term plan should be a house move but short of that, mail order suppliers such as Edwards of Conwy or Douglas Willis provide a great choice. Beer, bread rolls and pickles are all you need to complete your sausage sizzle: I’d go for one of the Welsh Lady chutneys, probably Spicy Tomato or the tangy Beetroot and Orange. For pudding, I would o er my sizzlerees another bottle of Tomos Watkin’s Cwrw Haf, the beer for which the summer was designed.
e second style of outdoor feast is the grillade, o en based around a ramshackle or ‘re-purposed’ set up, with old bricks supporting grids which were once oven shelves in a long-defunct cooker. Real purists of this school make their own charcoal but even if you don’t want to go the full Bear Grylls, these simple cooking stations deliver the real smoky avour we crave and satisfy the inner Viking. However, they tend to be about as controllable as Welsh weather so chunk up your meat into quickly seared pieces: kebabs are perfect, with Rhug Estate’s diced Welsh Lamb Shoulder being ideal. Children love threading vegetables and lumps of meat onto skewers so utilise any available holiday workforce to help. Caws Tei ’s slightly salty
halloumi is also very good, with the contrast between a crisp, darkened exterior and the creamy smoothness within being absolutely glorious. If you’re not reserving your halloumi exclusively for vegetarians, and there is o en some tension in this family between the veggie ‘halloumi is mine by right’ and the ‘halloumi is mine because it is delicious’ factions, throwing diced lamb and halloumi cubes onto the grill then mixing them into a leafy salad is good, especially if you can spare a drop of Aber Falls Single Malt Whisky to drizzle over it. A treat which works well on a simple outdoor grill is fruit kebabs, made much easier by the advent of freestone varieties of stone fruit, like peaches and apricots. Be careful that you select fruits of similar consistency because you don’t want some still rock hard whilst others are just a smear dripping onto the charcoal. Brush nectarines and apricots with warmed Hilltop Honey for an extra kick and banana kebabs are great dipped in Hilltop Maple Syrup - I prefer the Very Dark but the Amber also goes down well.
e third and most signi cant trend in al fresco eating is the Outdoor Kitchen. ese temples to conviviality can overcome almost all the pitfalls (or perhaps that should be repitfalls?) of outdoor eating. Shower of rain? ere’s a roof. Can’t put anything down? ere’s a surface by the cooking area? Nowhere to wash bugs o your salad? ere’s a tap. Timing tricky because you have to keep dashing o into the kitchen? All of the above. Using rubs like those from the Welsh Smokery is easier when you have room to manoeuvre and a place to rinse your hands. Using their Wood Rub means you lose nothing of the avour of a more primitive set-up when you gain the exibility of gas.
A friend of mine cooks whole chickens with great gusto in her outdoor kitchen, having rst inserted a can of Felinfoel Double Dragon into the part of said fowl where the sun doesn’t shine. e presence of a small outdoor freezer helps with ice for drinks: Still Wild’s Sweet Vermouth on the rocks with an orange slice and topped up with Radnor Hills Sparking water is a delightful aperitif. And you might even use the freezer for my new go-to instant summer pudding: a couple of splashes of good co ee, such as Coaltown or Black Mountains Roastery poured over a frozen ice-cream bar. It’s called an afogatsnick, and you heard it here rst!
Serve perfection this summer at your parties, picnics and everything in between, with tasty, succulent and versatile Welsh Lamb.
Check out the recipe here:
