Hold the Front

Porth Eirias

by Louisa Harry-Thomas

Another Michelin win for Wales

Congratulations to Chef Hywel Griffith of Beach House, Oxwich, for securing a brand new Michelin star for Wales. As described by the judges, ‘this contemporary restaurant sits on the beach on the Gower peninsula. The setting is great but the food is even better.’ The chef from Bethesda was greeted at the London awards ceremony podium with a query about the restaurant’s bilingual menu: ‘I’m originally from North Wales and speak English and Welsh. I think it was important to go back to Wales and to have the menu bilingual. It’s been fantastic and well received.’ The restaurant joins The Walnut Tree (Llanddewi Ysgyryd), Ynyshir (Eglwys Fach), Sosban and the Old Butchers (Porthaethwy), James Sommerin (Penarth) and The Whitebrook (Gwenffrwd) as the six Welsh Michelin star restaurants for 2020. Check out the taste. blas review of Beach House Oxwich from this year’s Spring issue on www.taste-blas.co.uk

Double trouble for Tregaron

Following a cracking National Eisteddfod in Llanrwst back in August, the moveable feast travels on to Tregaron in Ceredigion in 2020. To toast the festival’s success, the residents of Trefeurig have created a bespoke gin: JinTrafferth Mewn Tafarn (‘Trouble in an Inn Gin’) inspired by 14th century local bard and trouble-maker Dafydd ap Gwilym. The dry gin’s top notes include llus (bilberries) and ysgawen (elderflower) - botanicals that existed in the poet’s time, and still grow in the area today - as well as lemon, coriander and angelica. The legendary lothario is famed for his ‘cywydd’ Trafferth Mewn Tafarn – a farcical poem that recounts a night of endless trouble at his favourite local pub. You’ll find that where Jin Trafferth Mewn Tafarn leads, trouble may follow. So unlike Dafydd ap G, please drink responsibly!

www.jintrafferth.cymru

Take a look at Nook

Congratulations to Phil and Deb Lewis (Dusty Knuckle) and John and Ceri Cook (Ember, Hoof, and formerly of Arbennig) on the launch of their brand new Nook – the latest small plates and natural wine bar to open in Cardiff. Based in the vibrant foodie hub of Victoria Park, the September launch was the highlight of the season. Nook follows in the footsteps of Uisce and Wright’s Wines and highlights seasonal Welsh ingredients. So far the must-try plate is ‘Pav’s Carrots’, grown by Pawel Wisniewski from Paul’s Organic Veg in Abergavenny - a regular stall-holder at Cardiff farmers’ markets. Walk-ins only, so no need to book to take a look at Nook, a welcome addition to the capital city eating scene.

Welsh sweep up AA awards

Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias, the fabulous beachfront café, restaurant and bar in Colwyn Bay, has been named Restaurant of the Year for Wales at the AA hospitality awards in London. Praised for its ‘informality and quality’ and ‘being of the moment’, this seaside eatery is the third opening for the Denbigh-born chef; and this latest honour follows a Bib Gourmand from Michelin which was awarded in 2018. Also fêted at this year’s AA awards were the Glynne Arms in Penarlâg (Hawarden), Flintshire, which won Welsh Pub of the Year and was noted for being ‘a real local pub’. The wine award deservingly went to the Penmaenuchaf Hall Hotel in Dolgellau, and The Grove, a 5 star period hotel in Narberth, Pembrokeshire - part of the Seren Collection stable that also includes Beach House and Coast - was voted best hotel.

www.portheirias.com

Slow Food Cymru

Just over a year ago a small group of restaurateurs, small scale food producers and food enthusiasts met at Wright’s Emporium in Carmarthenshire, to discuss their concerns about Brexit. One year on, and this enthusiastic group have continued to meet, and after much cogitation, have decided to rally under the Slow Food banner. They are now the official South West Wales branch of the international campaigning movement and are intent on addressing the challenges faced by small scale producers and on getting involved in food education. To date, the informal meetings have mostly been hosted by food writer, broadcaster and restaurateur Simon Wright. However, the group is open to individuals and businesses from across Swansea, Pembrokeshire, Carmarthenshire and Ceredigion and an inaugural meet-up is planned before Christmas. So if you want to join the slow food conversation, look out for details of the time and place of the meet-up on the group’s Facebook page www.facebook.com/groups/

SlowFoodSouthWestWales

Mead business creates a royal buzz

Two brothers from the Wye Valley have created such a stir with their innovative new mead business that they have won the Prince of Wales Entrepreneur Award for Wales. Their mission was to modernise mead so that it could be enjoyed like a beer, cider or sparkling wine. No flowing beards or ancient axes here. This light sparkling mead (just 5%) made in Chepstow from the boys’ honey bees looks totally at home in the trendiest urban venue. Talking about their award-winning drink, Kit Newell says: ‘We felt the world’s oldest alcohol needed some refreshment, so we created our light sparkling version using modern beer brewing techniques. Matt, who has

been keeping bees for over 15 years, had a particularly good season, which gave us some honey to experiment with. After years of trials we struck upon a recipe we liked and we’re glad to say that other people like it too!’

www.wyevalleymeadery.co.uk

Battle for the Dragon

The Welsh National Culinary Team will lock horns with Scotland and England at the annual Battle for the Dragon contest in North Wales this autumn. The event will be held at Coleg Llandrillo Menai in Rhos-on-Sea, and fine dining fans can sample the dishes served by booking places at the dinners being held from 29-31 October. Team Wales has been preparing by holding a series of dinners to perfect their dishes. Guests at the High Sherriff of Powys’ Gala Dinner at the beginning of October enjoyed one such dinner at the Royal Oak Hotel in Welshpool, which raised more than £5,000 for Wales Air Ambulance and the Montgomeryshire Family Crisis Centre. The stunning menu featured a myriad of great Welsh produce, including Carmarthenshire ham. Pob lwc Cymru!

www.walesculinaryassociation.com

Cradoc’s celebrate next step

Powys cracker company Cradoc’s Savoury Biscuits is celebrating after receiving SALSA accreditation which will allow it to supply major food suppliers, distributors, specialist cheese vendors, exporters and high-end outlets. Mother and daughter team Allie and Ellie Thomas, who are based in Cradoc Road, Brecon, say: ‘Our desire to create something that married well with the delicious produce of Wales was the driving force behind Cradoc’s. Growth in our business has led us to acquire new premises this year and this accreditation was a vital part of our relocation.’ Commenting on Cradoc’s success, Minister for Environment, Energy and Rural Affairs, Lesley Griffiths, said: ‘Cradoc’s is a wonderful example of our ambition to further develop the Welsh food and drink industry through working collaboratively within the sector in order to grow businesses’ scale, value and productivity, through targeted investment, support, innovation and co-operative activity.’

www.cradocssavourybiscuits.co.uk

Jerky boys build on awards tally

Butchers Arwyn Morris and Ramos Vernys of Trailhead Fine Foods are the proud owners of a 2019 Great Taste Award for their Spicy Chilli Beef Jerky. The Welshpool duo, who loved the jerky so much they bought the business in 2018, can now boast their own 1-star Great Taste Award, which they add to two other Great Taste Awards won in previous years. Their beef jerky is lovingly made from marinated strips of air-dried beef made from the leanest prime cuts of Welsh PGI beef. It is marinated in a secret blend for at least 24 hours to allow the flavour to penetrate fully and then air-dried slowly for at least another 12 hours. To choose your own favourite flavour, visit the website:

www.trailheadfinefoods.co.uk

Foodie lunch club at Stradey Park

After a hearty review in the Spring edition of taste.blas, we’re delighted to highlight more foodie happenings at Llanelli’s Stradey Park Hotel. Locals are now wise to the fact that on the last Thursday of every month, a local food or drink business is invited to demo their produce, and the gathered company also partake of a delicious three course lunch.

The 31 October event features the Hensol Castle Distillery from the Vale of Glamorgan which will open its new distillery, gin school and visitor centre later this year – could be a boozy one! Reservations essential, price £17.50 per head.

And on 28 November, Stradey Park Hotel opens its doors for its Christmas Fayre, which will feature stalls from more than 20 local producers including Llanelli’s Tinworks Brewing Co, Gareth’s Delicious Delights from Neath, the Gower Brewery and Toloja Orchards from Lampeter.

www.stradeyparkhotel.com

Monty’s Brewery is in it to win it

Monty’s Brewery, of Montgomery, Powys, has been shortlisted in the rural tourism category of the Rural Business Awards 2019/20. As a regional finalist, Monty’s will now battle it out with other businesses in the rural tourism category from across Wales and Northern Ireland for a place in the finals. Russ Honeyman, Commercial Director for Monty’s, said: ‘We are used to our beers winning awards, but this is the first time we have entered the Visitor Centre. I hope it shows that we give visitors, whether beer drinkers or not, an enjoyable relaxed experience and an insight into what the brewery is all about.’ Director and Co-Founder of The Rural Business Awards, Anna Price said: ‘The 2019/20 Awards have seen record numbers of entries and it’s encouraging to see so many rural businesses express a desire to celebrate their successes.’ We look forward to the national finals in February.

www.montysbrewery.co.uk

Welsh National Culinary Team

Cradoc’s Savoury Biscuits

Green and Jenks

Cardiff deli already expanding

After a hiatus of 60 years, Green and Jenks’s return to Roath, Cardiff has been a huge success. So much so, that they’re already expanding. As well as their award-winning home-made Gelato the deli now stocks a plethora of Welsh food goodies and will soon have an alcohol licence so expect an equally impressive range of Welsh beer, wine and spirits. But the big news is that as we go to press, Green and Jenks will be opening a café where you can sample the delights on sale in the deli.

Hare & Hounds

Pembrokeshire Sea Salt scoop again

Launched in 2016 by Sherill Evans and Josh Wright, the Pembrokeshire Sea Salt Co. has won recognition at the Great Taste Awards for its Sea Salts with Saffron and Wild Garlic, which bring its total haul of GT awards to four. Judges described the saffron sea salt as a very beautiful product of excellent quality which would be ‘so wonderful sprinkled over white fish – streaking yellow and red perfectly across it.’ Insta-perfect! And of the wild garlic salt the judges said: ‘There is a well-judged level of garlic aroma and flavour.’ Sherill explains: ‘We are ecstatic. It really does feel like a reward for hard work and dedication, and recognition of the quality of our products. This is so important to us as we create our salts from scratch, harvesting sea water by hand from a small, local cove, and make everything ourselves in-house. It is a labour of love.’ Da iawn Sherill and Josh!

www.pembrokeshireseasalt.co.uk

Beer of the dragon breathes its magic

Situtated on the River Lliedi in Felinfoel, Felinfoel Brewery, near Llanelli, has been brewing craft beer since the early 19th century. Possibly the only remaining truly family owned brewery in Wales, in 1935 it became the first European brewery to put beer into cans. Visitors to South Wales will spot the Felinfoel dragon on the walls of more than 80 of its pubs, and the range is also available in bottles and cans from retailers today. Malty and subtly hopped, awardwinning Double Dragon continues to breathe its Welsh magic. With the full range, including recent Craft Ale additions such as an American style IPA, malty Dragon’s Heart and a rich Chocolate Stout, all available in cans you easily buy online or in selected retail across Wales.

www.felinfoel.com

Roaring fires create elegant festive welcome

If you’re looking to celebrate your Christmas in style, why not consider the intimate elegance of Holm House in Penarth? Built as a private residence in 1926, roaring fireplaces, original stonework and floor to ceiling windows offer views of the dramatically lit garden and the lights across the Channel. This contemporary coastal hotel celebrates in style with lavish decorations and an elegant menu, where Head Chef Kevin Pike uses the freshest local ingredients. We were lucky enough to sample the festive menu, which is available from 1 December, and included ham hock terrine, followed by an Usk Welsh sirloin topped with garlic, chestnuts and mushrooms, and homemade mulled wine cheesecake served with candied orange to follow. Two courses start at just £24.95.

Anna Loka’s plant-based Christmas

We’re tantalised by the intriguing descriptions on this seasonal menu, which features, among other things, tinseltastic terrine, winter Wellington, and mixed berries and chocolate entremet. Even the meat-eaters among us are sold!

As many of us aim to become more plant-based for both health and environmental reasons, this two course 100 % vegan menu from £23.95, is sure to be a popular choice in Cardiff this Christmas. And now with a full alcohol licence, that’s even better.

www.annaloka.com

Collect a Xmas hamper

The Hare & Hounds in Aberthin in the Vale of Glamorgan is offering its own brand Christmas hampers filled with glorious Welsh delights, some of which are made in their own pub kitchens. The restaurant is run by chef Tom Watts-Jones, who trained in award-winning London restaurants, but has returned to his home turf to promote the very best of Welsh food. The hampers are just perfect gifts for those difficult relatives who simply have everything.

And what better way to support the local economy than by giving a truly Welsh artisan present? Expect H&H sloe gin, H&H chutney, Black Mountain smoked salmon, Picketston bacon, Welsh Black winter truffle, cheeses, duck eggs, salami and more. Collection is on Monday, 23 December at 4pm, with mulled wine to be drunk on arrival! It’s £100 per hamper, with booking essential.

www.hareandhoundsaberthin.com

It’s not just what’s IN the box...

OK, so we can’t grow cocoa in Wales, but we can certainly produce lovely chocolate. Powys based Coco Pzazz select sustainably grown chocolate with the correct flavour profile. They add spices and extracts from across the world, but not forgetting Welsh ingredients and influences - such as sea salt, spirits and Welsh roasted coffee or Bara Brith and Welsh Cakes. Of course, the final addition of “Welshness” is the choice of packaging.

Coco Pzazz work with a selection of Welsh artists and designers to adorn their chocolate creations and give them a sense of place. Chris Neale - the wellknown landscape artist based in Betws y Coed - is responsible for the image “Lleuad Gaeaf” that adorns the company’s “Nadolig Llawen / Merry Christmas” chocolate bar. This darker milk chocolate bar is speckled with white chocolate snow flurries as well - a perfect Christmas masterpiece.