Dining Out in Style

Restaurant Reviews Sandy Mount House, Rhosneigr

Since springtime the buzz around Sandy Mount House has spread all the way from Môn to Monmouth. Rave reviews were re-tweeted, and gossip repeated about a new restaurant-with-rooms in Rhosneigr, Ynys Môn. But what excited me more than anything was the master in the kitchen; Hefin Roberts is one of the finest Welsh chefs of his generation, and his menu is a must this autumn.

As a child he stuffed fleece into bags on his family farm, Gwern Gof Uchaf, on mount Tryfan, Snowdonia. As an adult, he became a Welsh National Culinary Team member, a three AA rosette-awarded head chef at The Bull, Beaumaris, and is a demon at cooking Welsh lamb. I sped up the A470 and crossed the Menai with high expectations; they were entirely surpassed, and completely outmatched at Sandy Mount House. The boutique hotel is a stone’s throw from Traeth Crigyll beach, right at the heart of the village of Rhosneigr. At this Anglesey west-coast surf-haven, Sandy Mount House provides a laid back charm mixed with contemporary Welsh luxury touches. The stylish decor is reminiscent of Soho House, with a low-key vibe of Ibiza, by way of the Welsh lovers’ isle of Ynys Llanddwyn. Thanks to the bilingual staff, they had me at ‘prynhawn da’, but won my eternal loyalty the following morning, with a pre-breakfast Welsh greeting card; ‘Bore da bobl hardd’ (Good morning beautiful people’).

The walk-through bar was buzzing with Ynys Môn locals, as I made my way to the light, open-kitchen restaurant. I was struck once more by the decor; a ‘Halen Môn’ blue and white take on the classic Welsh dresser, and the ‘lobster pot’ light fixtures, a nod to the local historical marram grass craft.

I began the meal with a tipple from south-east Anglesey; a Rhubarb and Vanilla ‘Llanfair PG & T’ from Distyllfa Llanfairpwllgwyngyll Distillery. It had a lovely long finish, just like the famous place name – an ever-popular Anglesey draw. I suspect the same fate for Chef Hefin Roberts’ name, which is likely to soar. His bilingual menu was outstanding, with an emphasis on local ingredients. Though sorely tempted by the evening special of Rhosneigr lobster Chateaubriand, I plumped instead for the butter-poached lobster starter, with shellfish bisque, potato spaghetti and sea herbs.

The rich, intense flavours hit me sideways, like a wave to the head; I made it back to land for the main course of lamb - an epicurean kiss of life. The cumin yoghurt-roasted loin, paired with a spiced lamb breast fritter, was served with a caws Caerffili cheddar mash; polished off with a tomato jus, and chickpea and aubergine ragoût, it was a heart-warming autumn treat.

The evening’s biggest reveal, however, was a complete surprise, and truly a feast for the eyes. The words on the menu -‘SMH Lemon and Felin honey’ - didn’t scream ‘stand-out-dish’, but this reviving ice-cream pudding was an exhilarating masterpiece. I won’t divulge any further details, lest I ruin the reader’s fun – but at the very least, this gorgeous treat should be exhibited at Llangefni’s Oriel Môn!

Next morning’s breakfast further exceeded my expectations; the tastiest overnight oats, then homemade sourdough toast and hand-picked Capel Curig Chanterelle mushrooms. What a foodie adventure to savour, and a menu full of Welsh flair. It was an absolute blast and the memories will last of a muchneeded breath of fresh air.

Lowri Haf Cooke

Troy Meze Bar, Penylan, Cardiff

The temptation with a Welsh food magazine is to focus almost exclusively on traditional Welsh produce and cuisine. To do so, misses the great contribution made by other cultures to the culinary experience to be had in 21st century Wales. Few more so than Troy, until recently a staple of Cardiff’s Middle Eastern hub of City Road, which has recently made the short journey to leafy Wellfield Road.

Owner ErsinYetisir arrived in Cardiff from Turkey nearly twenty years ago and has long since made Wales his home. He brought with him a traditional style of Turkish/Kurdish cooking based on an open Ocakbashi charcoal grill, which has pride of place at the heart of the restaurant. The décor has subtle ornamental touches, mostly Troy iconography, and a classy feel.

The first thing, however, that strikes you, even before you walk through the door, is the wonderful Troy aroma which set the taste buds tingling. The central grill floods the restaurant and its environs with a heady mix of spices, charcoal and cooked meat. Combined with the visual spectacle of cooking on the grill, it offers a truly immersive experience.

Now, a word of warning. Whilst perusing the menu, take care not to ruin your appetite by gorging on the scrumptious complimentary flatbread, olives and dips. It’s too easily done. The menu, all of which is sourced locally wherever possible, is comprehensive but manageable. Traditional hot and cold meat or vegetarian mezze dishes are either cooked on the grill or prepared in the kitchen, and there are also a few unusual outliers, such as quail and frogs legs.

My kalamar (squid) starter had a delightful tempura batter, the perfect balance of tenderness and bite, with a flavour to conjure memories of sun-kissed Mediterranean holidays. My dining partner’s Muska Boregi feta and fresh parsley pastries wowed with their salty zing and herby zest, which she followed with Troy’s home-made vegetarian Moussaka - a moreish dish for veggies that has become something of a signature dish for Ersin.

Though tempted by the substantial meat platter, I settled on the more waistline-friendly option of a mixed shish kebab, comprising generous chunks of seasoned lamb and chicken and a chicken beyti (minced chicken kebab with garlic, parsley and herbs) for good measure. Tender, succulent and bursting with flavours of the Orient thanks to spot-on seasoning, spices and of course the grill.

The key to Troy’s success is the technical mastery of cooking over an Ocakbashi grill. Judging the right amount of heat and picking the right moment to serve to keep the meat moist and tender, yet with the perfect level of charredness is no mean feat. Honourable mentions must also go to our Esme Salata salad of freshly chopped parsley, onion and tomato. To finish, it just had to be Baclava. One of the few items on the menu not to be sourced locally, they come from a bakery in London, which Ersin says make the best Baclava in the UK and on this evidence he’s likely to be right. It’s no surprise that Troy was once voted one of the Top 5 ‘kebab’ restaurants in the UK by The Times. Troy has clearly moved to another level, in addition to a new home and we Welsh should be proud to call it our own.

Paul Mulligan

Restaurant Reviews Tides Kitchen & Wine Bar, Trefdraeth (Newport, Pembrokeshire)

After the summer holidaymakers leave Trefdraeth in September, a sense of calm returns to the North Pembrokeshire seaside town. Local residents reclaim its myriad attractions for themselves, including a growing Welsh foodie scene. Amongst the cafes, pubs and butchers is a fine dining treasure beloved by those in the know. Since opening in 2017, Tides Kitchen & Wine Bar has developed a loyal following; a mix of local lucky dabbers and destination diners, drawn to a menu filled with the fruits of Cardigan Bay. The restaurant is a partnership between Emma Louise Downey and Lydia Taylor, who met at the bar of local pub The Golden Lion. Emma had previously managed an earlier incarnation of Tides at her family’s farm shop in Llangloffan, where her parents produced the award-winning Caws Llangloffan cheese. Then in 2016, following a nine year stint running Hamilton’s fish restarant in Antigua, she returned home to Pembrokeshire. And while tuna and red snapper inspired her daily in the West Indies, it’s fresh Welsh lobster, crab and sea bass that flies out here.

Having happily experienced the ‘Fish and Chip Tuesday’ at Tides last winter, I was keen to cast my net wider for autumn. The dining room itself is a cosy, contemporary space, with muted greens and aubergine framing light wood furnishings. Hanging on the walls is a series of local landscapes, from Mathry to Aberteifi.

The evening began with a heartwarming touch – freshly baked thyme and Welsh cheddar sourdough from the oven. I’d selected my starter a few days earlier, whilst drooling over the window menu; believe you me, the Cardigan Bay lobster ‘mac and cheese’ did not disappoint. If I could, I would order an endless portion of this dish to gobble up at home in my pyjamas. Rich and rewarding and sprinkled with parmesan, it’s comforting autumnal food. My partner’s succulent scallops were both sweet and savoury; topped with fried shallots and crispy pork belly, the perfect marriage of land and sea.

A no-brainer as a main, my partner’s Welsh lobster was divine, prepared in a finger-licking garlicky butter. Emma’s travels clearly inspired my locally-caught monkfish dish, presented in a richly spiced spinach dahl. The house white wine – a citrussy Chilean Sauvignon Blanc –balanced each and every flavour to a tee. For some, two courses would be quite enough, but who could possibly refuse home-made salted caramel ice cream sandwiched between two freshly griddled Welsh Cakes? Certainly not I, and in the name of national pride, I demolished this decadent treat. My partner’s affogato was presented with a charming reconstruction of a shortbread-style ‘custard cream’.

Over the past few years, I’ve passed this dining draw for tourists in Trefdraeth countless times. I would never have guessed, that such respect for local produce would be on offer all year-round. I envy all who live north of the Landsker, within distance of the Preseli hills. For intrepid Welsh travellers, seeking foodie inspiration, this is a Pembrokeshire ‘trysor’ to be found.

Lowri Haf Cooke

I was aware of Tommy Heaney’s food long before I’d tasted a bite. Inspiring greed on my Insta feed, Tommy was the talk of the town. And what a year it’s been for the Belfast-born chef, who conquered Cardiff via The Great House, Laleston. He launched a successful crowdfunding campaign to kick-off his Pontcanna restaurant, and scored top marks on Great British Menu on BBC 2. To cap it all he opened Uisce wine-bar next door, and Heaney’s restaurant was included in the 2020 Good Food Guide.

Although a regular visitor to Heaney’s, I’d never given the tasting menu a go until earlier this autumn. I’m always slightly scared of a long-drawn out affair, but you’re in safe hands at Heaney’s and it gives you a real sense of what a chef can do. The 10-course seasonal menu rolls out in the form of a series of small plates and sharing dishes that develop in heft and intensity of flavours.

My feast began with the well-seasoned salmon pastrami, followed by the smoked duck ham croquettas that had me rolling my eyes in pleasure. The muchlauded grilled sourdough also made an appearance, slathered with the naughty savouriness of Marmite butter. Not just a thing of beauty, the cured monkfish with elderflower infused ajo blanco, Roscoff onions and Muscat grapes was a standout dish. The delicate translucent fish was enlivened with a whack of almond, along with the mellow sweetness of the grape.

Then, two perfectly seared plump scallops drenched with lime and XO butter left my taste-buds tingling; that is, until the unctuous panko breadcrumb-coated oxtail upped the umami levels further. What followed was an autumnal twist on the GBM-acclaimed cod, paired with a cauliflower puree and an apple cider beurre noisette. Sweet versus sharp. Smooth versus crunch. But a harmony of texture and flavour. The final savoury dish was a comforting Heaney’s hit; the blushing barbecued lamb and anchovies drenched in a rich and glossy red wine sauce.

The first of two desserts took me by surprise; star anise custard wrapped in feather-light filo pastry paired with poached and jellied pear, fig leaf ice cream and a punchy damson sauce. Autumn on a plate, it really emphasized Chef Heaney’s zeal for seasonal ingredients. The final flair; a calamansi custard tart paired the zing of citrus with the decadence of chocolate, a refined take on a Terry’s chocolate orange!

The packed restaurant on a Wednesday night proved that Heaney’s is still the talk of the town. His seasonal cooking is clever without showing off, and his love of the Celtic land and sea shines through the everchanging menu. Time will tell whether Michelin delivers a star, but one thing’s for sure – there’s already a star in Pontcanna.

Dorian Morgan

Heaney’s Restaurant, 6-10 Romilly Crescent, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9NR

The Kinmel Arms, Abergele

Following a raucous but rather soggy National Eisteddfod weekend in Llanrwst, I journeyed north through the rolling hills of the Conwy Valley. Within sight of Abergele along the north Wales coast, I stopped in the hamlet of Llan San Siôr (St George). What awaited inside was a ravishing Sunday supper and a most welcome rest and recuperation.

Lavished with praise for years as a local foodie fave, the Kinmel Arms has - remarkably - only recently opened its doors on Sundays. Not only was I gobsmacked upon hearing this, but also grateful for my fortuitous timing. This cosy 19th Century coaching inn is the definition of a Welsh gastropub; the kind of haven where you long to while away the hours of your sacred day of rest.

That inspirational decision was taken by new boss, local businessman Andy Williams. A cousin of Chef Bryn Williams, and owner of Llandudno pier, he knows the Kinmel Arms very well as he lives next door. A dream scenario for most people has led to a careful re-appraisal; the warm decor remains, but there’s a more relaxed style of dining, using the best local produce to entice visitors from near, and far.

I was led, first of all, to my lovely light-filled room, with the highest ceiling and biggest bed of my aquaintance. It took heroic amounts of discipline from me not to flop down and sleep forever; but with a grumbling stomach I made my way to the restaurant where I enjoyed the finest Sunday dinner that I can remember. I was immediately drawn to the leather sofa by the fire, with a local aperitif from Rhuthun. The fruity Pant y Foel Cherry Bakewell G & T quenched my thirst, and curiosity! The light salad of heritage beetroot, apple and goat’s cheese was delicious, and as pretty as a picture. It was perfectly paired with the delicate elderflower notes of Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard Solaris, from nearby Llangwstenin.

So taken was I with the local Welsh white, that I matched the red Rondo with my meaty main course. Four slices of Rhos on Sea Sirloin soon arrived, ruby red and brined overnight; they were accompanied with crisp roasties and a Yorkshire pud that was almost as big as my head. Half expecting the beef to outclass the wine, I was charmed again by a marriage of local flavours; much lighter than a Malbec, it still provided some heft, with the seductive scent of strawberries and raspberries.

Last, but not least; a drop-dead gorgeous Peach Melba, the zingy raspberries sweetly enhancing the peach ice cream. Walking on air towards my bed, I slept soundly, dreams filling my head. Next morning, the full Welsh breakfast – meats provided by Humphreys, the local butcher – provided a superlative kick-start to the day. Body replenished and totally refreshed, I departed with a smile on my face. What can I say? The Kinmel Arms offers the perfect stay, and a wonderful Welsh embrace.

Lowri Haf Cooke

Restaurant Reviews Milkwood, Caerdydd

Bwytai Cymru (Gomer Press, £9.99) is a new Welshlanguage book by Lowri Haf Cooke exploring fifty special eateries in Wales. Milkwood restaurant in Cardiff represents a circle in the careers of chefs Tom Furlong and Gwyn Myring. ‘To begin at the beginning’, they met in the kitchen at Cibo Italian restaurant; the very space where they now create contemporary twists on seasonal Welsh dishes. Much like Cibo this city kitchen is at the heart of Pontcanna village, and represents the backbone of contemporary Cardiff cuisine.

Cylch bywyd a brofir ym Milkwood, Pontcanna, dros bryd o fwyd gwych yng Nghaerdydd. Daeth dau at ei gilydd yn 2005, gan esgor ar genhedlaeth newydd o fwytai Cymreig. Ac wedi cyflwyno gastronomeg ‘trwyn i gynffon’ i’r Brifddinas, gyda’u llwyddiant mawr cyntaf The Potted Pig, mae menter ddiweddaraf Gwyn Myring a Tom Furlong yn ffurfio asgwrn cefn sin bwytai Caerdydd.

Cwrdd yng nghegin Eidalaidd bwyty Cibo wnaeth y ddau, tra oedden nhw’n fyfyrwyr yn 2005. Roedd y bwyty wrth galon cymuned Pontcanna, gan weini pitsa a phasta o fri. Dros beint yn y Conway, dechreuon nhw drafod yr hyn oedd wir ei angen ar Gaerdydd. Er bod y ddau wrth eu boddau yn coginio rhyfeddodau a dysgu hen sgiliau cigyddiaeth, doedd nunlle’n gweini bwyd tebyg ar y pryd. Ar ben hynny, doedd yr un o’r ddau yn meddu ar hyfforddiant ffurfiol yn y maes – dim ond angerdd a’u cariad at fwyd.

Dair blynedd ar ddeg yn ddiweddarach ac mae’r ddau yn parhau i greu hud yn yr un gegin. Ond peidiwch â drysu! Fe wireddwyd eu breuddwyd fawr, wrth ddatblygu eu bwydlen ddelfrydol yn nhafarn fwyd y North Star, ar Heol y Gogledd, Gabalfa. Yno’n bendant y crëwyd saig debyg i rilletes y Potted Pig. Dyna oedd sail eu bwyty cyntaf ar stryd fawr y brifddinas, gyda bendith y bòs, Jahan Abedi.

Pan agorodd y bwyty yn 2011 – yn naeargell banc hynafol Lloyds – rwy’n eitha siwr bod tân gwyllt wedi ffrwydro uwchlaw! Fe’n croesawyd i fwyty tanddaearol, dinesig, oedd ag adlais cryf o Manhattan, ac i gwtsh jin cyntaf Caerdydd ers dros ganrif! Profodd y fwydlen eu bod yn gig-garwyr o’u corun i’w sawdl – gan wneud defnydd o bob rhan o’r anifail.

Gwefr hefyd oedd bwyta cranc Sir Benfro yng Nghaerdydd, a llwyddodd eu saig adnabyddus i afael yn y beirniad bwyd dadleuol Jay Rayner yn ei borc-peis bach. Bedair blynedd wedi hynny, yn 2014, datblygodd y ddau eu partneriaeth lwyddiannus wrth agor bwyty Eidalaidd-Gymreig yn Llandaf. Ystyr ‘Porro’ yw ‘cennin’, a bu’r briodas aml-ddiwylliannol (ag adlais bychan o Polpo yn Soho) yn un lwyddiannus tu hwnt i Gaerdydd. Creodd eu hamrywiad ar gaws pob – tost surdoes, cennin melys a chaws Talegio - gryn gynnwrf yn hen bentref Siasbar Tudur! Ymysg y seigiau sy’n dal i ddenu, yw’r papardelle boch yr ych, sy’n hyfryd gyda glasied o win coch Eidalaidd, i ddilyn Negroni neu Aperol Spritz. gwrw crefft. Prynwyd The Landsdowne yn Nhreganna a The Grange yn Nhrelluest, a’u troi yn gyrchfannau bwyd a diod ardderchog. Yna y llynedd, bu cryn ddaeargryn, wrth i’r ddau dorri’n rhydd a gadael The Potted Pig a Porro ar eu holau. A’r ddau bellach yn briod, gyda’u teuluoedd eu hunain, roedd hi’n bryd dychwelyd at wreiddiau eu llwyddiant.

Pan welsant fod perchnogion Cibo, Andrea Bartley a Marco Vitolo, yn gwerthu’r busnes er mwyn ymddeol, camodd y ddau i mewn gyda syniad newydd sbon. Roedden nhw’n awyddus i gynnal yr ethos cymunedol oedd i’w deimlo yn y bwyty pentrefol, ond eto’n ysu i weld eu harddull goginio yn esblygu. Serch y siom fawr a deimlwyd ymysg cwsmeriaid ffyddlon Cibo, profodd Milkwood yn llwyddiant mawr.

Ar sawl achlysur pan fues i yno, nodais enwau mawrion ym myd bwytai Cymru yn gwledda yno ganol wythnos. Mae hynny wastad – i mi - yn arwydd o barch gan eiconau’r diwydiant, ond yn fwy na dim mae’n deyrnged i’r bwyty gan bobol sy’n perthyn i’r gymuned leol. Rhan fawr, yn bendant, o’r naws gartrefol a geir yno yw’r croeso gan Andrew a Susie ym mlaen y bwyty. Daw Andrew o Lanedern, er iddo fod yn llywio bwyty Browns, Talacharn, tra bo Susie, o Little Haven, Sir Benfro, yn arfer gweithio yn The Grove yn Arberth ac ym mar Curado. Mae profiad helaeth y ddau yn sicrhau noson lwyddiannus.

Ond yn brysur yn eu hen gegin y mae Tom a Gwyn, yn hogi eu harfau cogyddol. Serch eu diffyg hyfforddiant ffurfiol, mae’r hwyl a’u hyder yn amlwg, wrth iddynt amrywio eu bwydlenni’n wythnosol. Ges i facrell bendigedig ar noson lawog ym mis Hydref, a blasau Asiaidd yn ddigon i’w ddeffro o farw’n fyw. Ond naw mis wedi hynny, yn haul tanbaid Gorffennaf, profais fwydlen gyda’r gorau erioed. Wedi blas bach danteithiol yng ngŵyl Bite Cardiff yng Nghwrt Insole, ailbrofais amrywiad newydd ar ein saig cenedlaethol; tafod ac ‘eirin’ oen gyda chennin a bara lawr. Dilynwyd hynny â chegddu gyda brocoli a samffir, a thomatos heulsych a asiodd i’r dim â gwres y diwrnod tesog. Cyflwywyd brithyll fy hen ffrind – cyd-loddestwraig â mi yn Cibo – â’r mws afocado ysgafnaf, cyn iddi wirioni ar brif saig yr wylys wedi’i fygu. Deilliai elfennau o bob saig o ambell ragflaenydd yn The Potted Pig a Porro, ond roedd y rhain yn fersiynau esblygiedig ac wedi’i mireinio a’u perffeithio.

Yna, gyfeillion, daeth y diweddglo, mewn glasied martini clasurol; sorbet Campari a grawnffrwyth pinc, wedi’i drochi mewn dau fath o jin. Sôn am bolish i’r paled, a danteithyn i ddefro’r daflod! Awn i’n ôl i Milkwood fory nesa, a ‘dechrau yn y dechrau’n deg’ o’r newydd. Teimlais yn aml gyda Cibo, ‘O, na chawn i fyw y freuddwyd ym Mhontcanna!’, a chael ciniawa yno yn llawer mwy aml. Wel, ein braint ni yng Nghaerdydd yw y cawn groesi afon Taf yn gyson, a hawlio dinasyddiaeth lawn yn rhan o freuddwyd fyw Tom Furlong a Gwyn Myring.