Restaurant Reviews
Sandy Mount House, Rhosneigr Since springtime the buzz around Sandy Mount House has spread all the way from Môn to Monmouth. Rave reviews were re-tweeted, and gossip repeated about a new restaurant-with-rooms in Rhosneigr, Ynys Môn. But what excited me more than anything was the master in the kitchen; Hefin Roberts is one of the finest Welsh chefs of his generation, and his menu is a must this autumn. As a child he stuffed fleece into bags on his family farm, Gwern Gof Uchaf, on mount Tryfan, Snowdonia. As an adult, he became a Welsh National Culinary Team member, a three AA rosette-awarded head chef at The Bull, Beaumaris, and is a demon at cooking Welsh lamb. I sped up the A470 and crossed the Menai with high expectations; they were entirely surpassed, and completely outmatched at Sandy Mount House.
The boutique hotel is a stone’s throw from Traeth Crigyll beach, right at the heart of the village of Rhosneigr. At this Anglesey west-coast surf-haven, Sandy Mount House provides a laid back charm mixed with contemporary Welsh luxury touches. The stylish decor is reminiscent of Soho House, with a low-key vibe of Ibiza, by way of the Welsh lovers’ isle of Ynys Llanddwyn. Thanks to the bilingual staff, they had me at ‘prynhawn da’, but won my eternal loyalty the following morning, with a pre-breakfast Welsh greeting card; ‘Bore da bobl hardd’ (Good morning beautiful people’). The walk-through bar was buzzing with Ynys Môn locals, as I made my way to the light, open-kitchen restaurant. I was struck once more by the decor; a ‘Halen Môn’ blue and white take on the classic Welsh dresser, and the ‘lobster pot’ light fixtures, a nod to the local historical marram grass craft. I began the meal with a tipple from south-east Anglesey; a Rhubarb and Vanilla ‘Llanfair PG & T’ from Distyllfa Llanfairpwllgwyngyll Distillery. It had a lovely long finish, just like the famous place name – an ever-popular Anglesey draw. I suspect the same fate for Chef Hefin Roberts’ name, which is likely to soar. His bilingual menu was outstanding, with an emphasis on local ingredients. Though sorely tempted by the evening special of Rhosneigr lobster Chateaubriand, I plumped instead for the butter-poached lobster starter, with shellfish bisque, potato spaghetti and sea herbs. The rich, intense flavours hit me sideways, like a wave to the head; I made it back to land for the main course of lamb - an epicurean kiss of life. The cumin yoghurt-roasted loin, paired with a spiced lamb breast fritter, was served with a caws Caerffili cheddar mash; polished off with a tomato jus, and chickpea and aubergine ragoût, it was a heart-warming autumn treat. The evening’s biggest reveal, however, was a complete surprise, and truly a feast for the eyes. The words on the menu -‘SMH Lemon and Felin honey’ - didn’t scream ‘stand-out-dish’, but this reviving ice-cream pudding was an exhilarating masterpiece. I won’t divulge any further details, lest I ruin the reader’s fun – but at the very least, this gorgeous treat should be exhibited at Llangefni’s Oriel Môn! Next morning’s breakfast further exceeded my expectations; the tastiest overnight oats, then homemade sourdough toast and hand-picked Capel Curig Chanterelle mushrooms. What a foodie adventure to savour, and a menu full of Welsh flair. It was an absolute blast and the memories will last of a muchneeded breath of fresh air. Lowri Haf Cooke Sandy Mount House, High Street, Rhosneigr, Ynys Môn (Anglesey) LL64 5UX
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