A Chef’s Tale

Chef profile A Song For His Supper

Lowri Haf Cooke meets legendary Welsh Chef Padrig Jones.

Some chefs are born legends; some achieve legendary status, while others have the title of ‘Welsh legend’ thrust upon them. Chef Padrig Jones - or ‘Paj’ to the restaurant world – it’s fair to say, ticks all boxes. He’s in a thoughtful mood as he re ects on his rollercoaster career, which has recently come full circle. Indeed, he has a new lease of life - following triumphs, trouble and strife - as he takes the helm of the kitchen at Gwesty Cymru, Aberystwyth.

‘Cooking’ he says simply ‘is in my blood – the kitchen is where I come to life’. Indeed, his career in the kitchen began when he was 8 years old at Llety Cymro - his parents’ B&B in Cardi . His passion for food grew during holidays to France, where he sailed, and learnt to sh. He le school for catering college at the age of 16, before entering the world of late 80’s cuisine. ‘ ere wasn’t a lot of ne dining in Cardi at the time, but that’s where I earned my ‘chef’s whites’. I learned a lot from Chef Gilbert [Viader] at Le Cassoulet, and was inspired by David Evans’ ‘nouvelle cuisine’ at Spanghero’s on Westgate Street’. Recognizing the city’s limitations, Paj le Cardi for London at 18, starting o as second commis chef at the Michelin-starred Windows at Hilton Park Lane. He went on to work under Pierre Ko man, and at Le Gavroche, and even had a sideline as a ladies’ escort. ‘You wouldn’t believe the amazing restaurants I got to visit through ‘wining and dining’. I was always a good Welsh boy, but it o en crossed my mind; ‘thank god I’m not paying the bill!’.

By the time he’d drawn the ire of personal hero Marco Pierre White, he heard the calling back home to Wales. en, in 1997, his dream came true as he became Head Chef of Le Gallois - his family’s contemporary Franco-Welsh restaurant. For over a decade the Pontcanna ‘it-restaurant’ personi ed the a uent ‘Cool Cymru’ zeitgeist. ‘It was the time of my life; we were full all the time, and were named one of the UK’s top 50 restaurants. We had media types phoning up to book the ‘best’ table, and to request that the ‘competition’ be sat in the furthest corner. e pig’s cheek with tru e ew out the kitchen, and the scallops, black pudding and pork belly was another huge favourite, served with Bloody Mary ketchup.’

But when simmering tensions between the chef and a partner boiled over, he made the heartbreaking decision to walk away in 2008. He spent time over the years running the King’s Arms, Pentyrch and leading the kitchen at Yr Hen Lyfrgell and e Bistro, Penarth. He consulted for countless Cardi restaurants before leaving the kitchen, and becoming a Freelance Developement Chef. Indeed many of his ideas are seen on supermarket shelves, from Aldi to Marks and Spencers. ‘It may appear to others who aren’t in the business that ‘he just can’t settle down’, but I’ve learnt valuable lessons at every step. For a long time, a er Le Gallois ended, it felt like I was going through a grieving process, and it’s only recently that I feel that I’ve come out the other side.’ So, when Huw and Beth Roberts from Gwesty Cymru reached out with an o er, Paj knew that the timing was right. ‘Although I’m a Bluebird through and through, I’ve felt a calling to the West: I think that’s gradually come with age. I’ve always loved Aberystwyth – my grandparents lived in Llanrhystud, and following 15 years in France, my parents have recently moved to Llanarth. I’ve dreamed about living and working by the sea, and you couldn’t ask for more with Gwesty Cymru as the restaurant is right by the shore’.

Already, his set lunch menu has proved a big hit, as renowned ‘Paj’ dishes whet Aberystwyth appetites. ese include his pork and rabbit terrine, and a to-die-for parfait, that’s followed him all the way from Spanghero’s, when he was still a lad. But with such high-quality Ceredigion produce to hand, it’s not just about re-visiting his Cardi classics; ‘I’ve already been experimenting with inspiring local ingredients. Take the Cardigan Bay sea bass linguine, for example; now, that’s a beautiful sh. I serve it lleted for the evening, leaving plenty of meat for a stunning pasta dish.’

For autumn, be on the look-out for ‘hearty game dishes, warming sh soups, plenty of slow and low cooking’ , as well as long-established Gwesty Cymru favourites. As Paj says himself; ‘ e name says it all, it’s the best of Wales on a plate. Land or sea, I make the ingredients sing!’

It’s been a long road from Llety’r Cymro and Le Gallois to Gwesty Cymru, but the name itself has a personal resonance for Paj. ‘Gwesty Cymru (‘Wales Hotel’) is named a er one of Wales’ most famous rock anthems. It’s by Geraint Jarman, who’s my partner Lisa’s dad’. He’s lost a stone since he returned to the kitchen, and started shing again with his dad. ‘I go down to the beach at Llanrhystud, to forage for seaweed for the laver bread. And there’s a secret cove I like in Cei Bach, where I cast my rod with a nice glass of wine. It really is what life’s all about, and it’s great to be back.’