Club News
The monthly newsletter from the Tasting Club
Issue 1209
Tropical
GETAWAY We’re taking over Boucan Hotel in Saint Lucia for a whole week. Don’t miss out – book your place on our exclusive Tasting Club Week! See pages 6 & 7
Hic!
If you like your boozy chocolates to have a bit of oomph, then we’ve got some great news for you. Find out more on page 12
The treacherous mud tracks in remote areas like Osuben mean medical help is hours away
MEDICAL CENTRE
for Osuben!
This latest trip to Ghana was one of the most productive for Club Director Terry Waters, who was accompanied by Hotel Chocolat’s Head of Chocolate Development, Adam Geilesky. In the next issue we’ll tell you about the whole trip, but for now we bring you some very exciting news!
1209NL
On our first visit to Ghana in 2003, we were told by the farmers in Osuben that one of the best ways to help them would be the provision of a medical facility. Although we were enthusiastic, the enormity of the ongoing commitment worried us. continued on page 8...
FREE TO loving home
One of our Steiff bears needs a loving home – just name him and he could be yours. See page 13
Letter from the
Editor
I
can hardly contain my excitement this month for two very different reasons. The first is the subject of our front page and concerns our latest ‘big project’ in Ghana. Members often ask if they can help us do more with our Engaged Ethics programme and so every three or so years we launch such a project and invite members to contribute. This one, however, is the big one! Ever since our first visit to Ghana we’ve wanted to build a health centre. Why? Simply because farmers always tell us it’s the single most useful thing we can do to help improve their lives. Healthcare is hard to come by for farmers and their families in remote areas like Osuben and many contract diseases, lose limbs and endure childbirth problems that could all be avoided with prompt care. The new developments that have allowed us to begin this project are most welcome – if you’d like to become more involved then we’d love your help.
“
Members often ask if they can help us do more… and so every three or so years we launch such a project… This one, however, is the big one!
”
The second reason for my excitement this month is the news that the Tasting Club has been given Boucan Hotel in Saint Lucia for an entire week. In short, we’re taking it over in April next year and we’ve put together a package especially for members – including many exclusive activities. It promises to be a holiday that you’ll never forget, so turn to pages 6 & 7 for more! And finally, staying on Saint Lucia, there’s also an update on the Great Rabot Estate Cocoa Race this month. Is your tree winning? There’s only one way to find out – turn to page 14. Excellence is coming – but is yours reserved? Find out how to check on page 4
Until next month, happy tasting!
Simon Thirlwell Club News Editor Send your letters to The Chocolate Tasting Club, Mint House, Royston SG8 5HL, or simply email me on simon@hotelchocolat.co.uk or via our website: www.chocs.co.uk We are waiting to hear from you! Club News Editor: Simon Thirlwell; Contributors: Simon Thirlwell, Terry Waters.
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© The Chocolate Tasting Club plc 2012
Why do we need a GUITAR IN CHOCOLATE MAKING…?
T
he guitar is a crucial piece of chocolate making equipment, which, these days,
looks decidedly low-tech. However, it’s often the simplest machinery that is the most effective and this one certainly has not been improved upon. So, when it comes to chocolate making the guitar refers to a simple piece of cutting equipment. It’s a bit like those old school paper guillotines, except this one has a hinged ‘lid’ with several cheese-wire guitar strings tightly strung across it. The idea is that whatever needs to be cut is placed on the flat surface and the ‘lid’ is
then brought down, with the guitar strings cutting through. Then, because we usually need squares of chocolate not long strips, the chocolate is turned 180º and the lid is brought down again to create neat squares. The range of chocolates that can be created this way is amazingly broad – from praline and gianduja to stiff caramel, nougat and toffee. The only limiting factor is that they must be of a certain firmness so they’re solid enough to be cut in the first place. Typically the guitar-cut chocolate is then enrobed in chocolate before taking its place in the tasting box. Look out for Pecan Brownie – made in exactly this way.
Winners
This month’s Prize Draw
Classic
Selection Prize draw winner is Mr J Cousin from London who wins an Everything Selection.
LAST call FOR…
Next month’s prize is an Exuberantly Fruity Selection.
Excellence
Dark
Excellence is our annual collection of the very best of the best – featuring nothing but the true chocolate superstars of the past year. So get set for this exclusive members-only event – it’s not one to miss!
Selection Prize draw winner is Mr A Holland from Chelmsford who wins a Serious Dark Fix Selection.
Next month’s prize is a Midnight Mints Selection.
Elements
Selection Prize draw winner is Mr I Mould from Market Harborough who wins a Peepster Best Sellers Selection.
Next month’s prize is a Peepster Summer Sizzler Selection.
Purist
Selection Prize draw winner is Mrs G Smith from Cambridge who wins a Purist Collection.
Next month’s prize is a Rare Collection.
All Milk Selection Prize draw winner is Mr B Leggatt from Flitwick who wins a Milk Peepster Selection.
T
here’s something in every winning category to delight, from Best Leading Chocolate, to Most More-ish and the ‘KnockYour-Socks-Off’ Award. Plus there are five stunning Excellence Collections to choose from this year – Classic, Dark, Elements, All Milk and Purist, so there’s one for everyone. Most members are automatically eligible and you will receive notification by post in your Club Update before we send your Excellence Collection. To check yours is reserved please go to www.chocs.co.uk/excellence or call 08444 72 70 70.
Next month’s prize is a Milk Oblivion Selection.
Don’t forget
4
– score by post or online at www.chocs.co.uk and you’ll be automatically entered into this prize draw.
Winter puddings
A deliciously cosy special edition that will have you wishing for the chilly weather to arrive sooner! Featuring such national treasures as Rhubarb Crumble, Apple & Blackcurrant Cobbler, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Bakewell Tart, Sussex Pond Pudding and more! Coming soon at the members-only price of just ÂŁ18 (plus ÂŁ3.95 P&P)
THE TASTING CLUB WEEK
at Boucan Hotel!
There’s been a huge amount of interest amongst members about Boucan Hotel set on the Rabot Estate in Saint Lucia. So we thought – wouldn’t it be great if the Tasting Club could take over the hotel for a whole week…? Which is exactly what we’re proposing!
ITINERARY
W
• Full Boucan breakfast. • Tasting Club Week Exclusive – specially extended Tree-to-Bar Experience for Club: Morning – Treeto-Bean – grafting, planting own named tree, harvesting, fermenting, drying. • 2-course lunch in Boucan Restaurant. • Afternoon Bean-to-Bar – roasting beans, then making your own chocolate bar and truffles. • Free time – enjoy Club Boucan, explore the estate. • 3-course Cacao Cuisine dinner in Boucan Restaurant - music night.
e’ve put together an exclusive Boucan package for a Tasting Club Week from 12th-19th April 2013 – including accommodation, meals and an array of activities for every day, many of which will be utterly exclusive for Club members only. Flights are not included, although for our dates fares with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic are quite reasonable at the time of writing. 6
DAY 1 – FRIDAY • Arrive Saint Lucia PM. • VIP airport transfer to hotel. • Fresh Cacao Bellini or Cacao Martini on arrival. • Tour of Estate grounds. • 3 course Cacao Cuisine dinner in Boucan Restaurant.
DAY 2 – SATURDAY
DAY 3 – SUNDAY
The Tasting Club Week Package also includes:
• Full Boucan breakfast. • ‘Boucaneer’ West Coast Raiding Party - a full day on the hotel’s fast launch, visiting Pigeon. • Island and a local lunch. • Dinner – BBQ.
• Accommodation in a Lodge with king size four poster bed and open-sky rainforest shower. • US$100 per day beverage credit per couple. • All of the Boucan essential luxuries. • Plus two preserved cocoa pods from the Estate and a Rabot Estate ‘Cocoa Sack’ tote bag to take home!
DAY 4 – MONDAY • Full Boucan breakfast. • Tasting Club Week Exclusive – learn how to cook Cacao Cuisine lunch with Head Chef, then eat your creation! • A relaxing treatment in the CocoJuvenate spa. • Caribbean Cocktail making followed by… • 3-course Cacao Cuisine dinner in Boucan Restaurant.
DAY 5 – TUESDAY • Full Boucan breakfast. • Tasting Club Week Exclusive – Engaged Ethics/Island Grower Tour, Cocoa Safari with packed lunch. • Tasting Club Week Exclusive – Caribbean rum and chocolate pairing session. • 3-course Cacao Cuisine dinner in Boucan.
DAY 6 – WEDNESDAY • Full Boucan breakfast. Free time – to enjoy any of the additional activities available at Boucan (not included in package) – boat trips, day on the beach, Diamond Falls, shopping, sulphur springs, Piton climb, or simply relax by the pool! • 2-course lunch in Boucan Restaurant. • 3-course Cacao Cuisine dinner in Boucan Restaurant.
Price per couple £2000 – a huge 40% saving for Club members! Dates – 12th to 19th April 2013 This really is an opportunity like no other to experience Boucan’s unique blend of luxurious plantation-chic, stunning natural beauty and wellbeing. Plus, of course, there’s the chance to explore Rabot Estate, Saint Lucia’s oldest working plantation, and discover cocoa like never before. Boucan is a boutique hotel with just 14 rooms – so please call the Reservation Team to book your room with a 20% deposit as soon as you can on 0844 544 1272 See www.thehotelchocolat.com for more about Boucan Hotel.
DAY 7 – THURSDAY • Full Boucan breakfast. • Depart – VIP airport transfer.
DAY 8 – FRIDAY • Arrive in UK.
DON’T JUST TAKE OUR WORD FOR IT! There has never been a better time for Club members to discover true bliss among the rainforest and sun dappled cocoa groves of Boucan Hotel. Already the hotel features on two of the year’s most prestigious ‘Hot Lists’ – Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List and the Travel + Leisure It List. And if you’d like to hear what guests have said, then why not take a look online at Tripadvisor ® and see for yourself! Itinerary is suggested and subject to change – but all elements will be included. This package can only be booked directly with the hotel (www. thehotelchocolat.com, reservations@thehotelchocolat.com, 0844 544 1272). Package is based on 2 people sharing and includes accommodation, meals as listed, drinks allowance, activities as listed – extras can be booked/paid for at hotel. Package does not include flights – British Airways and Virgin Atlantic fly direct from London starting from £675 pp return (at time of writing). Package is valid for the week 12th–19th April 2013. Holidays must be booked and deposit paid by 31st October 2012.
7
cover story – continued
MEDICAL CENTRE
for Osuben!
However, in the intervening years the Ghana Health Service has begun entering into partnerships with various organisations for the provision of such facilities and on this trip Terry was able to finalise arrangements for such a clinic. In Ghana there are three tiers of health service buildings – hospitals, medical centres and small clinics called CHPS (“Chips”), which are community-based health planning and services. In the Kwalho South District, where Osuben lies, there are 19 health sectors of which 11 have an existing CHPS – Osuben is one that does not. Our arrangement for an Osuben CHPS is a four-sided endeavour. The Club provides the money for the materials, the skilled labour and the initial equipment; the community provides the land and the unskilled labour; the district assembly oversees the building activity; the Ghana Health Service provides the staff, the drugs and on-going maintenance. We’re delighted as this is exactly the kind of enterprise we have always sought in Ghana. We provide the impetus for the creation of the project, but then it is sustained by the local community. Our mantra has always been – provide a ladder, not a crutch. Having agreed the arrangement, Eric Odei, the district health officer declared, “It will be a dream come true”. Understandably so, because farmers in the Osuben region face enormous problems in receiving timely health care. The nearest medical centre at Praeso is just 15km away from Osuben, but the road is little more than a track – difficult in the dry season and almost impassable in the wet season. What’s more, cocoa farmers don’t have their own transport. Our CHPS will operate a 24/7 service with a live-in nurse and midwife, so care can be provided immediately for local
people and within less than an hour for the others. Typically, farmers and their families need help for snakebites, cutlass injuries and childbirth difficulties, so speed is of the essence. Indeed, we met a mother in a village north of Osuben who had had childbirth difficulties. Unfortunately, by the time she reached the centre at Praeso one of her twins had died, thankfully the other was delivered healthy. On hearing that a CHPS was being planned for Osuben, she reflected on how that might have saved her other child. So now we need to raise the money. As longstanding members know, we only ask for funds for this sort of major project every three or so years – and this is just the third time in the 14 years of the Club. The first was for a motorbike for our field officer that also raised enough to sink a borehole. The second was for a truck that has made a huge difference over the past three years – which also raised enough to sink two more boreholes! This time it’s a really big ask. We need to raise £45,000 to cover the cost of the building materials, skilled labour and the equipment. We could build a smaller CHPS without accommodation, which would be less costly, but its effectiveness would be much reduced by the lack of permanent staffing. Members will rightly have lots of questions about this latest project, so we’re preparing a leaflet to go in tasting boxes in a month or so. But given our longstanding relationship with the cocoa farmers of Osuben, we invite you now to start contributing if you feel able to do so. All we ask is that any contribution is by cheque for a minimum of £5, made payable to the Cocoa Farmers Fund and sent to the usual address – CTC, Mint House, Royston, SG8 5HL. Anything you can send will be gratefully received – please indicate if you require acknowledgement. Thank you in advance for your support.
Clockwise from top left – Eric Odei and his team; Medical Centre at Mpraeso; Terry with the Kwalho region chief Nana Yeboah Afari Boagyon; children at Osuben who will benefit from the new CHPS; Terry with essential headwear; the “road” north from Osuben; a mother and her surviving twin.
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scores
Classic Selection – D149 No. Chocolate Name
10/10
Average
1
Loopy Layers
Chocolatier E Desmet
38%
8.6
2
Auntie Maria
R Macfadyen
35%
8.5
3
Fleur D’Orange
C Hockley & E Desmet
33%
8.5
4
Vanilla Truffle
R Macfadyen
31%
8.4
5
Zesty Bombe
R Macfadyen
30%
8.4
Chocolatier
10/10
Average
Loopy Layers
DARK Selection – K82 No. Chocolate Name 1
Ginisette
O Nicod
42%
8.5
2
Apricot Slammer
O Coppeneur
40%
8.4
3
Fleur D’Orange
C Hockley & E Desmet
33%
8.4
4
Raspberry Royale
K Kalenko
32%
8.5
5
Auntie Maria
R Macfadyen
31%
8.7
10/10
Average
Ginisette
Elements Selection – S60 No. Chocolate Name
Chocolatier
1
Mint Choc Chip Slab
R Macfadyen
38%
8.4
2
Loopy Layers
E Desmet
38%
8.2
3
Jack Praline
O Nicod
33%
8.4
4
33% Milk Batons, Ivory Coast
The Tasting Club
29%
8.6
5
Rhubarb & Custard Batons
The Tasting Club
24%
7.7
10/10
Average
Mint Choc Chip Slab
purist Selection – p14 No. Chocolate Name
Chocolatier
1
Sambirano Praline
K Kalenko
33%
8.0
2
Salted Almond Bûche
The Tasting Club
20%
8.2
3
80% Hacienda Iara Dark, Ecuador
The Tasting Club
17%
8.2
4
72% Dark, Grenada
The Tasting Club
16%
8.3
5
Caramelised Pecan Bûche
The Tasting Club
14%
7.7
Sambirano Praline
ALL MILk Selection – M04 No. Chocolate Name
10
10/10
Average
1
Fleur D’Orange
Chocolatier C Hockley & E Desmet
56%
8.7
2
Apricot Slammer
O Coppeneur
39%
7.7
3
Loopy Layers
E Desmet
33%
8.7
4
Auntie Maria
R Macfadyen
28%
7.9
5
Sticky Toffee Bite
G Pereira
28%
8.2
Fleur D’Orange
feedback
Your Tasting Comments! Sambirano Truffle – Classic We rarely give 10s but this was a complex taste in a simple chocolate. How do they do that? Jack Drever, Orkney
Bouquet
Apricot Slammer – Classic Loads of flavour and the tequila adds a fantastic twist. Helen Lumby, Eastbourne
Bouquet
Ginisette – Dark Oh my! This was fabulous! I want a dozen delivered every week from now on, thank you. Judy Kerr, Harwich
Bouquet
Ginisette – Classic Off the wall and straight in the bin please. That was awful. Pauline Hampton, Fishguard
Brickbat
Jack Praline – Elements Singing Land of Hope & Glory to accompany this delightful chocolate. Joan Holton, Exeter
Bouquet
Ginger & Chilli Praline – Purist Too much of a fight going on between the chilli and the ginger – disappointing. Jane Crawford, Witney
Brickbat
GENERAL COMMENTS… We have revised our scoring along the lines suggested [in Club News article] I even printed out the list. Although the scores now look rather mean, we enjoyed the chocs as much as usual. John & Judith Pentith, Wetherby Very enjoyable overall but the recipe for Ginisette must be destroyed! Michael Goodman, Isle of Man Always impressed by the variety and passion involved in creating each selection. Christine Prentice, Thirsk
I am disappointed every time I open the package to see that dull, almost mustard coloured box [of the All Milk Selection]. I voted for the lilac as it was a far prettier colour - I’m almost tempted to return to the classic selection for the box! Paula Jones, Norwich Congratulations! I usually love your selections but this box has surpassed them all! So many were absolutely amazing and I think the Founder’s Favourite just beats the others but then again... Linda Dunbavan, Cambridgeshire
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DON’T MISS
the next Fortified!
The legendary Fortified Selection is now in its sixth year and more popular than ever – which is why it’s now a quarterly selection so that you can get it four times a year!
A
nd there’s one very good reason for the enduring success of our Fortified Selections – we make sure that each recipe we feature is brimming with its full measure of alcohol, so every selection is absolutely uncompromising in its approach. In our regular monthly tasting selections, we usually restrain ourselves so that recipes with alcohol appeal to the wider Club audience. The latest Fortified Selection features 28 chocolates, freshly made and ready for despatch in September – including warming autumnal classics like St Remy Brandy, deep and dark Meyer’s rum and a Tawny Port specially selected to accompany milk chocolate, as well as an invigorating Mojito Cocktail, Chambord raspberry liqueur and a remarkable new Vetsal Vodka that brings the concept of ‘terroir’ to vodka. Don’t forget that each selection also includes a set of exclusive Provenance Cards, each one filled with fascinating background information about four featured alcohols and liqueurs.
So if you love your boozy chocolates to have some real oomph, then don’t miss the next Fortified Selection coming soon at the members-only price of just £16.00 (plus £3.95 P&P).
update
Denmark S
120 Cocoa Growers in St Lucia 1,800 Recipes
67 UK EXCELLENCE STORE
Planets
Netherlands
110.000 sq ft
100.000 MEMBERS FORTIFIED scores
MAG 6 2 US STORES PURIST70.000 boxes a month 32 Chocolate in the Intro Selection
500.000 Boxes yearSaint Lucia Hotel SELECTIONS
a loving home
10,000can US MEMBERS Big be
DARK
Free to
22 SELECTIONS Classic 4.3M Box Storage Capacity
better
Back in 2009, we created a limited edition run of collectors’ Steiff bears, which are soughtafter the world over as the most collectible bear of all.
We regularly bring you news of how the Tasting Club is growing – and while that might be interesting, you might also be thinking ‘Is that a good thing?’ Which is a very good question.
T
A
hey are highly valued for their rarity, which is reflected in the fact that each bear has its own numbered certificate of authenticity – a guarantee of its rarity and its provenance. Unfortunately, we recently discovered one of our bears hiding behind a storeroom box who didn’t have a certificate – which, of course, means it has little collectible value. On the bright side, it means this gorgeous mohair bear can be treated just like any other ordinary teddy bear – to be cuddled rather than kept in its box as a collectible. So we’re giving this little bear away FREE to a loving home. All you need do is name him – we’ve identified this one as a ‘boy bear’ (don’t ask how)… Just send your name suggestion to simon@hotelchocolat.co.uk or CTC Bear Name, Mint House, Royston SG8 5HL and we’ll reveal the winner in a couple of issues time.
PS There are still a few Steiff Bears with certificates of authenticity available at half the original price just £89.95 (including delivery) – just call 08444 72 70 70.
nd the answer is ‘yes’ it is a good thing for a couple of very good reasons. Firstly, as the Club grows, both here in Britain and overseas, then so does the range of different recipes and different selections that we can offer our members. With more members we can invest even more in our chocolate development, creating ever more exciting chocolates and trying new recipes and combinations that other chocolate makers just wouldn’t dare! This year we have added two new faces to our chocolatier team who started their ‘chocolate apprenticeships’ earlier this year. We’ve also been able to invest in new machinery – the most recent of which will allow us to begin making fondants and marzipans. And we’ve introduced a brand new selection this year, the All Milk, which now brings our family of regular selections to six – including the ever-popular quarterly Fortified Selection. And secondly, a growing Club also means that we can invest in the behind-the-scenes infrastructure that makes the Club run like clockwork – both human and machine. And if something does go wrong or you need to contact us, then there are even more people on hand to help – and that’s never a bad thing! 13
update
The Great Rabot Estate
Cocoa Race
Great Rabot Cocoa Race
Now that we’re approximately at the halfway stage in our competition, it’s time we called into Rabot Estate for our second update. How has your tree fared over the last few months? Read on and find out! The month of May was blessed with lots of rain, while the month of June was an abundance of sunshine – both of which are just fabulous for the development of cocoa. There have been six mini harvests on the Rabot Estate since the competition began – here are the results so far…
TREE ONE – Cuthbert ICS39
17 Pods
It is just amazing to see this tree all in bloom and quite heavy, all pointing to a good crop. Conditions have really treated this tree well – the gods will definitely be smiling awaiting the pods from this tree.
TREE TWO – Murray ICS95
23 Pods
Despite recently giving us 23 pods, this tree is developing slowly at the moment, as it has no flowers. However, hopes are very high that it will develop as the season progresses.
TREE THREE – Simon Trinitario 5
3 Pods
This tree has only just started flowering, which means that it will also be late on pods. We are hoping that this lateness will be compensated by a bumper crop.
TREE FOUR – Freda ICS 98
1 Pod
Although this tree hasn’t performed well at this last harvest, indications are it’s gearing up for a bumper harvest in the main season in November. It’s laden with flowers from the base of the trunk to the top.
TREE FIVE – Mr Matt ICS1
12 Pods
This one performed quite well at the last harvest, but is also now on the slow side with very few flowers, but we’re sure that, like all cocoa trees, it will come to life and be as productive and competitive as its competitors.
But remember, the race is not over until you cross the finishing line! 14
feature
Winter
pudding
Chocolate steamed pudding Serves: 4 Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 65 minutes Ingredients: 50g Hotel Chocolat Dark Chocolate Drops 110g plain flour, sifted 1 tsp baking powder 110g caster sugar 1 tbsp Hotel Chocolat Cocoa Powder 125ml skimmed milk 1 egg 75g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped 4 tbsp Hotel Chocolat Classic Smudge butter, for greasing
Method 1. Melt the chocolate drops in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water, stirring occasionally. 2. Put the flour, baking powder, caster sugar, cocoa powder, milk and egg in a food processor or mixer and blend for 1 minute at low speed. 3. Add the melted chocolate and blend for 1 minute at high speed. Fold in the hazelnuts. 4. Lightly grease four 175ml pudding basins or dariole moulds with butter. Spoon the chocolate mixture into the basins and cover each one with a piece of greaseproof paper and foil, then secure with string. 5. Place the puddings on a rack set in the bottom of a large saucepan. Pour enough just-boiled water into the pan to come three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basins. 6. Cook over a medium heat for 1 hour, replenishing the water if necessary, or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the pudding comes out clean. Carefully remove the puddings from the pan and allow to cool for 10 minutes. 7. Turn out the puddings onto serving plates. Pour the Classic Smudge over the puddings and serve.
This is just one of the featured recipe cards included in Winter Puddings – order yours on page 5!
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Fancy a holiday you’ll never forget? The Tasting Club Week at Boucan, Saint Lucia The Tasting Club is taking over Boucan Hotel for an entire week and we’ve put together a stunning package exclusively for members – including accommodation in our boutique hotel, meals and unique activities and tours. See pages 6/7 inside for more. Hurry – Boucan is a boutique hotel with just 14 rooms so places are limited! Find details of packages, prices and availability at: thehotelchocolat.com reservations@hotelchocolat.com or call: 0844 544 1272