Rural Studio by Taylor Horton

PORTFOLIO TAYLOR HORTON

RURAL STUDIO FARM

PROCEED AND BE BOLD SAMUEL MOCKBEE

The Rural Studio FARM is an ongoing, four-year project that is broken down into phases. These phases include a greenhouse, food forest, and a garden consisting of several raised beds for crop growing. The FARM goal is to acheive complete self efficiency. The class I participated in drew focus to the greenhouse. It consisted of phases itself: water system, berm and storage, raised beds, and canopy system. I along with three other classmates chose to participate in the Raised Bed phase. My reasoning behind my participation was the small scale nature of the project, and the attention to detail involved. We were to focus mainly on the beds located in the greenhouse. After several studies, including plant, permaculture, and architectural; we attempted to develop the best casing, or house for these crops to grow. Important architectural elements included a utilitarian ledge, longevity of the material, and the means of constructing the beds. We also developed a step by step brochure educating future students about understanding the project and constructing it. RURAL STUDIO CAMPUS MASTER PLAN

PERSPECTIVE RAISED BEDS

berm

raised beds

canopy system

water system

SuStainable Organic grOwing methods And techniques For sustAinABle groWing

greenhouse oBjectives

WhAt We eAt dAily

soil healthy soil is one of the most important aspects to having a successul garden

long term oBjective oF gArden grow enough food for 50(+) people

short term oBjective oF gArden grow enough food to sustain the salad bar sAlAd BAr tomoatos: 3 lbs cucumbers: 2.5 lbs bell peppers: 3 large bell peppers carrots: 1.5 lbs lettuce: 4 heads

arrugula spinach lettuce carrots lima beans green beans peas sweet potato corn

ApiAceAe carrots celery parsley parsnip

beet spinach

RESEARCH

Cultivation, or tilling, of the soil is a necessary part of forming good soil structure, texture and tilth. Done properly it can mitigate compaction, improve drainage, and help to encourage soil micro-organisms.

poAceAe corn

crop rotAtion

liliAceAe

reduces pest And diseAse Build up Avoids exhAusting the soil

asparagus garlic leek onion solAnAceAe

BrAssicAceAe arugula broccoli brussels sprouts cabbage kale mustard radish rutabaga

COMPOST The use of organic material from a compost pile helps to provide importnat nutrients to the soil. The presence of worms and other insect life shows that the compost pile and soil are healthy.

cultivAtion

crop FAmilies chenopodiAceAe

black eye peas broccoli squash cabbage tomatoes cucumbers bell peppers collards mustards turnips

mulching Mulching is the application of a protective layer on material on the soil surface. Mulch modifies soil temperature, keeping it cool on a hot summers day thus preventing heat damage to tender root tissue. Mulch reduces evaporation, keeping the soil moist and water available for garden plants. A layer of mulch protects the soil from drying and crusting, and helps to maintain healthy soil structure. The growth of weeds is suppressed by mulching, making weed control simple and easy. And organic mulch, as it decomposes, adds new components to the soil, building up its fertility.

AsterAceAe artichoke dandelion endive lettuce

eggplant pepper tomato potato

cucurBitAceAe FABAceAe beans peas

cucumber melon pumpkin summer squash winter squash

pAssive pest control

drip irrigAtion

pot mArigold

herbs used as companion plants that act as deterants of pest. these plants are interplanted with crops and act as one system with the greenhouse.

irrigAtion system in section

drip irrigation should supplement total rainfall for one week.

piping

deters asparagus beetles, tomato worms and many other insects

reduces splAshing on leAves this reduces the plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s potential exposure to diseases that dwell in the soil.

psi regulAtor

Spigot

WAter hose Filter

perForAted tApe

sAge BAsil

deters cabbage moths, carrot flies and ticks

deters flies and mosquitos

Consistent use of water drip irrigation supplies a consistent amount of water directly to the roots of a plant

gArlic deters japanese beetles, aphids, weevils, fruit tree borers and spider mites

rosemAry deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, carrot flies and malaria mosquitos

Conserves Water drip irrigation uses 15 - 20% of the water that would otherwise be used in overhead watering.

Plant HeigHt and Root dePtH

Crop rotation the prActice of growing A SerieS of DiSSimilAr typeS of cropS in the SAme AreA in SequentiAl SeASonS. - Avoids pest and disease buildup as the same crops are not grown in the same location year after year - Avoids exhausting the soil of nutrients It is recommended that in between plantings a legume crop is planted to restore nutrients to the soil

germination: 6 to 10 days (40-75 degrees farenheit) harvest: 50 to 60 days Sucession planting: sow short rows every week planting Depth: 3/4 inch Distance Between plants: 1 to 2 inches

SpinAch

germination: 14 to 21 days (70 to 75 degrees farenheit) harvest: 120 to 140 days Sucession planting: plant in early spring and then three months later planting Depth: 1/2 inch Distance Between plants: 10 inches

celery

germination: 6 to 12 days (60 to 95 degrees farenheit) harvest: 65 to 80 days Sucession planting: throughout season planting Depth: 1/4 inch Distance Between plants: 2 1/2 to 3 feet

tomAto

shallow 18 to 36 inches

arugula 8 to 10 inches

Broccoli 18 to 24 inches

Brussels sprouts 2 to 3 feet

cabbage 6 to 18 inches

cauliflower 8 to 30 inches

celery 18 to 24 inches

collards 24 to 36 inches

corn 4 to 8 feet

cucumBer

germination: 3 to 6 days (60 to 95 degrees farenheit) harvest: 50 to 70 days Sucession planting: a second and/or third planting will keep fruit in high quality planting Depth: 1 1/2 inches Distance Between plants: 8 to 12 inches

germination: 5 to 7 days (40-55 degrees farenheit) harvest: 30 to 40 days Sucession planting: sow short rows every week planting Depth: 1/4 inch Distance Between plants: 1 inch

endive 3-9 inches

garlic 8 to 24 inches

Kale 12 to 24 inches

leek 8 to 24 inches

lettuce 2 to 12 inches

onion 4 to 24 inches

potato 1 to 2 feet

radish 2 to 6 inches

spinach 3 to 15 inches

ArugulA

medium 36 to 48 inches

Bean 24 to 30 inches

lettuce

Beet 4 to 12 inches

Bell pepper 6 to 36 inches

carrot 6 to 15 inches

cucumBer 1 to 6 feet

eggplant 1 to 3 feet

hot pepper 6 to 48 inches

okra 2 to 8 feet

rutabaga 12 to 18 inches

pea 1 to 7 feet

summer squash 1 to 2 feet

cArrotS

Broccoli

pepper

turnip 6 to 12 inches germination: 7 to 14 days (40-85 degrees farenheit) harvest: 50 to 75 days Sucession planting: sow short rows every week planting Depth: 1/2 inches Distance Between plants: 10 to 12 inches

deep 48 inches or more

germination: 7 to 21 days (50 to 85 degrees farenheit) harvest: 60 to 80 days Sucession planting: sow every two weeks planting Depth: 1/2 inch Distance Between plants: 2 to 3 inches

germination: 4 to 7 days (45 to 85 degrees farenheit) harvest: 55 to 60 days Sucession planting: throughout season planting Depth: 1/2 inch Distance Between plants: 14 to 18 inches

germination: 7 to 10 days (70 to 95 degrees farenheit) harvest: 65 to 95 days Sucession planting: throughout season planting Depth: 1/4 inch Distance Between plants: 1 1/2 to 2 feet

asparagus 7 to 10 inches

lima Beans 24 to 36 inches

parsnip 6 to 18 inches

pumpkin 1 to 2 feet

sweet potato 12 to 30 inches

tomato 1 to 10 feet 3

MATERIALITY: ALPOLIC

CONSTRUCTION

WHY ALPOLIC? WHAT MAKES THIS A SUITABLE MATERIAL TO BUILD THE RAISED BEDS?

Prep the greenhouse for the insertion of the raised and low beds.

Alpolic is an ACM (Aluminum Composite Material) composed of 2 thin sheets of aluminum surrounding a thermoplastic core (polyethylene). Similar in its properties to corrugated metal, but much lighter. The Rural Studio is in possession of a fairly large amount of Alpolic left over from previous projects. Manufactured by Mitsubishi Plastics Composites of America, Inc.

SMOOTH GREENHOUSE a) Use the bobcat to smooth all of bumps and valleys in the greenhouse. The slope needs to be consistent across both the length and width of the greenhouse. (The transit can be used to make sure the slope is constant).

Following the completion of these steps, the beds can be inserted into the prepared trenches then be filled partially with gravel and planting medium.

b) Make sure the dirt does not touch the barrels. Gravel can be used near the barrels.

Alpolic can be cleaned by using just water and d a cloth. l h N No h harsh h chemical h i l cleaners l are needed.

Alpolic is a long lasting material. The panels will not need frequent replacing.

The reective nature of alpolic will assist in growing within the greenhouse by bouncing light from the sun on to the plants. Solar reectivity: Alpolic has an SRI (solar reectivity index) of 29. This is a “cool” rating, meaning that the panels would reect most solar radiation.

2. DIG TRENCHES a) Dig 12” deep and 2’6” wide along both walls of the greenhouse to accomodate the raised beds. b) Also dig 12” deep and 5’ wide down the center of the greenhouse to accomodate the ground bed.

Alpolic is a water resistant material. Even in wet conditions such as raised beds, it will not deteriorate.

Alpolic is very work orkable. It ccan be cut to size using standard wood working equipment. When scored to the appropriate depth, alpolic can be bent to necessary angles.

LEVEL WITH GRAVEL a) Pour gravel in the trenches and create a level surface that slopes from 8” deep from the ground plane near the seedhouse, to level with the ground plane near the Great Hall. b) Use the transit to ensure the slope is constant and creates a level surface.

Alpolic is very pleasing to the touch. It is smooth, with no rough edges or sharp corners. Also, Because of its SRI rating (see solar reectivity section) it stays cool to the touch even in conditions.

When folded properly, the structural integrity of alpolic greatly increases. The raised beds will be able to structurally support signicant weight.

Alpolic is both made from recycled material and able to be recycled. Alpolic is a nearly 100% recyclable material. Each panel is composed of approximately 45% recycled content. We already have nearly 150 panels in storage that are not being used - that’s 375 linear feet of alpolic!

Alpolic is a sturdy material that will be able to withstand the wear and tear that may occur throughout the life of the raised beds. 8

TOOLS FOR THE JOB

PREPARING TO FOLD

hand before you begin the process: - Safety equipment (see picture)

Constructing with raised beds is a simple process if you know how to use a few tools. The next ten steps show you which tools are needed and how they are used to turn at sheets of alpolic into raised beds.

PREPARING THE WORKSPACE

- Sheets of Alpolic (32” x 60”)

PREPARING THE SAW AND BLADE

FOLDING THE RAISED BEDS

Alpolic can be cut very easily with a circular saw. The standard wood cutting blade, however, needs to be replaced with a steel cutting blade.

Find a place to work; we recommend the metal break table under the supershed. It needs to be a large, at surface, big enough to hold a sheet of alpolic measuring about 32” x 62”.

A few tools that you must have on

BEFORE BEGINNING THE PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING THE RAISED BED, HERE ARE SOME TECHNIQUES TO KNOW.

16”

- Steel cutting blade

FOLDING THE CORNERS 16”

1”

Follow these steps to construct the ve basic pieces of the raised beds; the walls, the corners, the front ledges, the back ledges and the cross bracing. One each piece is built, the steps show you how to assemble them using rivets. The modular design of the beds allows for a assembly line process and simple construction.

- Circular Saw

FOLDING THE WALL PANELS S

THESE TEN STEPS TAKE YOU THROUGH THE PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING A RAISED BED USING 32” X 60” SHEETS OF ALPOLIC.

15”

16”

2” 36”

7” 2”

36”

- Rivet gun

6” 6”

60”

3/16” - 1/4” grip range

8”

3/16 “- 1/2” grip range For cutting the alpolic, the cut line will need to hang oﬀ of the table. To stabilize the piece, bring in a sawhorse and use pieces of wood to bring it up to the level of the table. These at pieces of wood can be screwed to the top of the sawhorse to stabilize them.

- Rivet washers - Drill with 3/16” bit - Metal break - Clamps - Level - Speed Square - Air compressor

8”

When installing this new saw blade, Install the blade so the nameplate on the blade is facing outward.

16”

Cut the panel down to the indicated size. Save the scraps. Then score the panel along the indicated line. Fold along the score line at a 90° angle to form the wall section.

32”

Cut the panel down, removing the pieces indicated. Save the scraps. After that, score the panel as shown. Fold it down the center score at a 90° angle to form the corner. Then fold up the 2 bottom pieces and rivet them together from the top using a scrap piece of alpolic.

MAKING THE MEASUREMENTS

SETTING THE BLADE

PREPARING FOR THE CUTS

The next step is to measure out where the cuts and scores will be on the alpolic. Before that, however, measure the distance from the blade guard to the blade on the saw. This will allow you to line the blade guard up with a fence to achieve a perfectly straight cut. Blade guard depths vary from saw to saw, so measure carefully!

Two kinds of cuts are necessary when working with alpolic; full cuts going all the way through the material and scores that cut only partially through the material. Set the saw blade and complete all of the cuts before re-setting the blade and doing the scores. For the cuts, set the depth of the saw blade to go all the way through the material, as shown in the picture.

Find long, at pieces to use a fences. At least one edge of whatever material you choose must be absolutely straight. This is the side that the guard of the saw will be placed up against. We recommend using steel L-braces to serve as fences.

Measure out the cuts on the alpolic and mark them on the back (white side) of the alpolic. First measure out where the cuts will be. After that, measure back from each of these marks the depth of the blade guard and mark it. This will show you where to line up the fence.

The second type of cut needs to be more precise in the setting of the blade. For scoring the blade depth needs to be set as close as possibly to the center of the 2nd layer (the plastic layer) of the alpolic, as shown in the photo. If the score is too deep, the fold will be weak. If the score is to shallow, the alpolic will not fold enough.

Line up the fence with the marks that you made, a blade guard’s width away from the line that needs to be cut or scored. Clamp your fence down to the table to ensure that it will not move during cutting.

9”

- 3/16” stainless steel blind rivets

FOLDING THE FRONT LEDGE

MAKING THE CUTS

Make sure that you have all of the appropriate safety gear before you begin to cut. Small pieces of aluminum and plastic y away from the cut as you go, and will get into your eyes, nose and mouth if you are not properly protected.

FOLDING THE BACK LEDGE 2” 4” 2” 2” 9”

JOINING THE WALL PANELS

ASSEMBLING THE WALLS

Cut and score the panel according to the diagrams above. Save the scraps. When it is cut down to size and scored, fold along the scores to create the shape shown. The rst and second folds are at 90°. The third and fourth folds are at 120°.

THE CROSS BRACING 2” 6”

6” 6”

13”

6”

b a

8”

28.25”

8”

6” 44.25”

15.75”

a a

Make sure to have someone hold onto the end of the alpolic that does not rest of the table. This will stabilize it. This person can also catch the cut pieces as they fall oﬀ. Before you cut, ensure that your marks are correct, and that the blade lines up with the marks you made previously.

MAKING THE SCORES When everything is ready, begin to cut. For cutting, you will only need to make one pass with the saw. For scoring, however, you will need to make several passes with the saw.

MAKING THE SCORES Go through and make the second cut. Then repeat the process one more time; moving the alpolic back and making one more score.

FOLDING Use the metal break located under supershed to fold the pieces of alpolic. Lift the fence on the break and slide the pre-scored sheet of alpolic underneath. Line up the score with the edge of the fence and tighten it back down.

10.

Taking one of the scraps from the wall panels, rivet two wall panels together, leaving a half inch reveal. There will be ve rivets along the length of the join; spaced 8 inches apart starting from the top. The rivets will be 2 inches from the reveal. Rivet the bottom three rivets, and leave the top holes empty, those will be done later.

ASSEMBLING THE LEDGES

After you have made the rst pass, use a hammer and a small piece of wood to protect the alpolic edge to move the sheet of alpolic about 1/16 of an inch. The saw should line up with the edge of our rst cut.

The width of the cut after three passes with the saw should be approximately 1/4”. This will allow you to make any fold of 90° and above.

Cross bracing connects the two sides of the bed together along its length. It alternates every panel connection (the top is on the left one time, and then on the right, and so on). The bracing is 6” wide. It rivets into the second rivet from the top, and into the bottom of the opposite panel.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

RIVETING

See the section for the exact placement of the rivets. The walls are connected by 5 rivets per section, spaced 7 inches apart with the bottom-most rivet 1” above the base of the bed. The top rivet attaches the ledge to the walls and the second rivet from the top attaches the cross bracing.

d d e

d d

Using the folding arm of the break, fold the alpolic up to the desired angled. The fold shown in the pictures is a 90° angle.

a b

10.

ADDING THE FRONT LEDGE

Continue to attach wall panels to each other in this method. Cross bracing (see next step) is added every other panel. The corner is attached in the same manner as the wall panels.

When riveting, drill a hole in the position you want the rivet through all of the layers. Then select the appropriate size of rivet (the smaller rivets when going through only two layers, and the larger rivet when going through more than two). Place the rivet in the hole and secure it with the rivet gun.

The connection between ledg ge pieces is a pipe connectio on. Using U the scraps from the creattion o of the ledge, g cut a p piece (7 iinche inches long) just slightly smaller than the ledge, as shown above. Fold it to the appropriate angle as ts the ledge. Two ledges slide over this connection, leaving a three inch reveal in between.

Attach the ledges to the constructed walls. The ledges are riveted to the walls throughout the top rivet hole that was left empty during the wall assembly.

Continue in this manner. The front ledges are attached to the walls and extend out. The back ledges attach to the walls and face into the raised bed.

We conducted many studies of how a gardener uses raised beds. We studied the best ways to grow, cultivate, and harvest crops. We gained hands-on experience working with raised beds throughout the semester. In our concept their were three main characteristics of focus; modularity, the ledge, and the ‘toe-kick’. We maipulated panels of alpolic to a certain dimension, configured our pieces from a set module, and constructed each piece to be easily repeated. After hands-on experience with raised beds, we found the ledge to be a major component. It provides a place of rest for the gardener, either for him or his tools, it provides stability, and functionality when cultivating. Gardeners use these ledges to stand on and cultivate the soil. The ‘toe-kick’ is the space under the ledge to the ground. The space is to be occupied by the gardener so he or she can reach to the back of the bed.

ELEVATION

1/2” = 1’ total number of panels: approx. 201

PLAN

1/2” = 1’

END

TAYLOR HORTON 462 Carter Street Rainsville, AL 35986 EDUCATION Auburn University - Auburn, AL

College of Architecture, Bachelors of Architecture, May 10, 2015 Summer Option Second Year Third Year + Rural Studio Fourth Year Thesis Year

Plainview High School - Rainsville, AL Advanced Diploma - 2010

PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE CORGAN - DALLAS, TX

Intern Architect | As part of the Education Team I participated in 25 different projects. Specifically I was involved in a team competition project for the School District of Fort Worth, TX. A main element in the presentation involved the construction of a physical model. Our team received the art/design award of the program.

2014 SUMMER SEAY, SEAY, AND LITCHFIELD - MONTGOMERY, AL

Intern Architect | As an employee I gained knowledge in several areas. I generated construction documents, worked with a design team, and participated in site analysis and occassional O.A.C meetings. Projects include: Northeast Alabama Community College, Desoto State Park, and Troy University Residential Hall.

2013 SUMMER RAINSVILLE CHURCH PEW CO. - RAINSVILLE, AL

Woodworker | In the woodworking department material came to me where sanding and preparing each piece took place. Occasionally I participated in the finishing process of all pew pieces. This included wiping stain and applying lacquer to the finished wood product, and making sure it was ready for shipment.

2012 SUMMER ABILITIES Architecture|Revit, AutoCAD, Adobe Design Suite, Sketchup, hand drafting, physical model making, lasercutting. Music| Piano, Guitar, Vocals.

AWARDS + INVOLVEMENT AIAS | Vice President + Internship Fair Coordinator Fourth Year Student Spring | Outstanding Student Book Award Rural Studio | Samuel Mockbee Chair Award Northeast Alabama Community College | Presidential Host

taylorhorton7 @gmail.com 256.899.9184

list of references upon request