Bioshades business case

TCBL BUSINESS CASES

BIOSHADES

Co-funded by Horizon 2020

ANNEX 4 TO TCBL D 3.2, 15 JULY 2017

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CONTENTS Contents..................................................................................................................................... 2 Introduction ................................................................................................................................ 3 Approach.................................................................................................................................... 4 Actors involved........................................................................................................................... 5 Labs – creative / scientific research / experts: ....................................................................... 5 Business – testing the research: ............................................................................................ 5 Scientific & Technical proof of concept: ................................................................................. 5 Impact & Success: ................................................................................................................. 5 Business Model: ..................................................................................................................... 5 Documentation platform: ........................................................................................................ 5 Associate businesses that become part of the TCBL network through the 2017 call that showed a high interest: .......................................................................................................... 5 Other Businesses that got in touch with TextileLab Amsterdam and showed strong interest6 Document Information ................................................................................................................ 7

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INTRODUCTION

The textile industry is one of the most polluting in the world, with the dyeing of fibres and textiles being one of the most environmentally disastrous processes involved in it. Chemicals are released daily in nature destroying the environment around us to satisfy the colour demands that designers, industry and consumers create. Very few options are being explored in this fast changing fashion, clothing and textile industry, in which the list of chemicals is only expanding.

Programs like DETOX from GreenPeace are trying to get attention to this issue, trying to identify the real environmental costs we are paying and asking for more research in this field to substitute chemicals and procedures with less harmful ones.

In the frame of TCBL, the TextileLab Amsterdam and Athens’ Making Lab are researching about bacterial dyes as an alternative, on one side focusing on creative experimentation and on the other side exploring scalability and impact of this process and outcomes. Together with other TCBL key players in exploring relevant candidates, documenting the process and evaluating the possible impact of this project, we are working on bringing these experiments to real industrial life.

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APPROACH The proposed approach is based on the fact that various bacterial strains produce pigments while growing (see Error! Reference source not found.).

Colors that could be obtained by the cultivation of various bacterial strains

So far, it has been demonstrated that such bacteria-produced pigments can be successfully used to dye different kinds of textiles, including cotton and silk-based ones. Dyeing is performed at room temperature with no need for salt or other auxiliaries’ addition and results in high color strength and stability to washing, perspiration and light. It can take place either in solid or in liquid bacteria cultures (even after sterilization). The first results were recently presented in AUTEX 20171. Even though these results are very promising and numerous companies (TCBL Associate Enterprises and others) have expressed their strong interest in the bacteria dyeing process, a key issue is still to be solved for the method to become applicable on industrial scale, namely the recovery/extraction of the bacteria-produced pigment from the bacteria culture in powder form, so that it can be further handled like common textile dyes. At the moment, TextileLab Amsterdam and the Biotechnology Lab of the School of Chemical Engineering in NTUA, Athens (an external Lab that has been engaged through Athens Making Lab) are experimenting in order to establish such a recovery method. As soon as this issue is solved, a first dyeing trial will be performed on industrial scale in the Associate Enterprise “Tsiakiris Silk House”.

The goal is that through this business case TCBL could answer many questions around the textile and clothing dyeing processes, providing a non-chemical solution and an organic natural cold dye bath, lowering chemical-environmental impact of dyeing and possibly creating a higher energy efficiency for this industry. Testing this with real industrial partners for real life impact is where we see this going.

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Kanelli M, Vasilakos S, Raspanti C, Papakonstantinou N, Topakas E. Dyeing Textiles with Bacterial Pigment. In AUTEX 2017, Corfu, Greece, 29-31 May 2017.

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ACTORS INVOLVED A list of partners involved in the BioShades Business Case follows:

LABS – CREATIVE / SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH / EXPERTS: • • •

TextileLab Amsterdam – creative research/initiator Athens’ Making Lab – scientific chemical research Fabbrica Arca – engagement of Associate Enterprises interested in the Case

BUSINESS – TESTING THE RESEARCH: • •

Tsiakiris silk house – Associate Enterprise (for first trial) Multiple other possibilities

SCIENTIFIC & TECHNICAL PROOF OF CONCEPT: • •

DITF Energy Efficiency – technical tool for the assessment of environmental impact Athens’ Making Lab – Scientific equipment

IMPACT & SUCCESS: •

Tavistock – before and after analysis

BUSINESS MODEL: •

ISMB

DOCUMENTATION PLATFORM: •

vDiscover

ASSOCIATE BUSINESSES THAT BECOME PART OF THE TCBL NETWORK THROUGH THE 2017 CALL THAT SHOWED A HIGH INTEREST: • • • • • • • • • • • • •

FEPSA (Portugal) Spyridoula Kolossa (Germany) Eva Kalogeropoulou (Greece) Marina de Ferraz Vegas / Uhnika Lab (Belium / Brazil) Beti (Slovenia) Alenka Žumbar Klopčič (Slovenia) Christianna Vasiliadou (Greece) Vita Ivicic (Slovenia) Sara Pezzolesi (Italy) Kelly Koulizou (Cyprus) Veronika Persché (Austria) Elisavet Kapogianni (Greece) Fabio Giusti (Italy) 5

BioShades TCBL Business Cases Textile & Clothing Business Labs

OTHER BUSINESSES THAT GOT IN TOUCH WITH TEXTILELAB AMSTERDAM AND SHOWED STRONG INTEREST

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SlowFashionFast (Bosnia and Herzegovina) http://www.slowfashionfast.com Foam of the days - Kristina Ivkovic (England) www.foamofthedays.com

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BioShades TCBL Business Cases Textile & Clothing Business Labs

DOCUMENT INFORMATION REVISION HISTORY This document is Annex III to TCBL Deliverable 3.2, “TCBL Business Labs: Internal Pilots”. Authors: Ista Boszhard, Cecilia Raspanti, Besnik Mehmeti, Maria Adele Cipolla. This Annex in particular is written by Silvia Pavlidou and Cecilia Raspanti.

REVISION

DATE

Version 1

06-07-2017

Version 2

15-07-2017

AUTHOR Silvia Pavlidou Cecilia Raspanti Jesse Marsh

ORGANISATION

DESCRIPTION

MIRTEC Waag Society City of Prato

Full draft Layout edits for publication

STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY This deliverable contains original unpublished work except where clearly indicated otherwise.

Acknowledgement of previously published material and of the work of others has been made through appropriate citation, quotation or both.

COPYRIGHT This work is licensed by the TCBL Consortium under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License, 2015-2016. For details, see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/ The TCBL Consortium, consisting of: Municipality of Prato (PRATO) Italy; German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research - Center for Management Research (DITF) Germany; Istituto Superiore Mario Boella (ISMB) Italy; Skillaware (SKILL) Italy; The Oxford Brookes University (OBU) UK; imec (IMEC) Belgium; Tavistock Institute (TAVI) UK; Materials Industrial Research & Technology Center S.A. (MIRTEC) Greece; Waag Society (WAAG) Netherlands; Huddersfield & District Textile Training Company Ltd (TCOE) UK; eZavod (eZAVOD) Slovenia; Consorzio Arca (ARCA) Italy; Unioncamere del Veneto (UCV) Italy; Hellenic Clothing Industry Association (HCIA) Greece; Sanjotec - Centro Empresarial e Tecnológico (SANJO) Portugal; Clear Communication Associates Ltd (CCA) UK.

DISCLAIMER All information included in this document is subject to change without notice. The Members of the TCBL Consortium make no warranty of any kind with regard to this document, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The Members of the TCBL Consortium shall not be held liable for errors contained herein or direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The TCBL project has received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under Grant Agreement n.646133.

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