BUSINESS LABS VALUE MODELLING Visual Summary
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The TCBL Value Mapping Tool
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Workshop template
Pictorial representation
It is a handy toolkit allowing Lab leaders to systematically analyze the value generated by their Labs according to various stakeholders, multiple value dimensions, and different time horizons.
SOURCE: ISMB
SOURCE: ISMB, adapted from University of Cambridge
Reference Methodologies TCBL value mapping approach is grounded on a combination of three seminal contributions coming from the existing literature, namely Stakeholder Analysis, EY Total Value, and Cambridge Value Mapping Tool. Identify and classify stakeholders who affect – or may be affected by – Lab activities
Stakeholder Analysis
Michele Osella, Elisa Pautasso, Alberto Buzio - September 2017
EY Total Value Situate relevant stakeholders in the value generation process
Dissect the value generation process in a multi-dimensional fashion
Cambridge Value Mapping Tool
TCBL 646133 – released as Annex 4 to D6.7 (TASK 6.4)
SOURCE: ISMB
Restructure the cotton supply chain to privilege the use of natural materials, the consumption of less resources, and the fair remuneration to all companies
TCBL BC Team + ISMB
‘Natural Cotton’ Business Case
Hellenic Clothing Industry Association
MIRTEC
Companies situated along the cotton value chain (ginning, spinning, weaving, finishing)
Better understanding of the Greek cotton industry
Constitution of a working group with a number of Greek TCLB Associate companies
New partnerships forged into the Greek ecosystem
Knowledge exchange resulting from working together
Showcase of first tangible results on the occasion of #TCBL_2017
Notable national and international visibility
New line of garments resulting from fully-traced production chain with certified origin and quality
Elaboration of an alternative business vision hinged on ethical fashion
Fear of upsetting the political equilibrium of Greek T&C companies
Greek T&C companies often hailed as traditionalists rather than innovators
Uneven willingness to participate among Greek T&C companies
Political recognition of the problem varying from agency to agency
Uneven comprehension of sustainability themes on the customer’s side
Market area framed around middle-priced quality goods almost unexplored
New wave of green innovation unleashed in the Greek T&C industry
Reputation turned into fundraising enabler
Global recognition of innovation leadership for the Greek T&C industry
Compelling storytelling on cotton origin and supply chain transparency
Application well beyond cotton (e.g., silk, wool, hemp)
Premium pricing enabled by perceived symbolic value (beyond material aspects of products)
Certification as ‘seal’ of product quality
Adoption of new low-cost tools for cotton processing
Sept 17
Local governments
Farmers
Air, water, nature, biodiversity, etc.
Revitalization of R&D activities in Greek T&C districts
Actionable insights collected (for free) on cotton growing
Feasibility of sustainable cotton demonstrated
Actual and foreseen impacts not adequately communicated yet
Enhanced competitiveness of Greek T&C districts in the sustainable textile market
Open data initiatives to provide evidence of the achievements
Attraction of funding (e.g., public grants for innovation projects)
New market avenues for natural cotton (e.g., fair trade)
GMOs elimination and reduction in pesticide usage
Magnitude of the investments required for expanding the production scale
Persistent presence of lowstandard clothes in the European market
Proven usage of less resources, especially water and energy
Citizens, end consumers
EU T&C sector as a whole
Increase of locally produced garments
Demonstration of integration among all stages of cotton production
Establishment of a community of common values to share the innovation risk
Uneven societal awareness about sustainability themes
Premium pricing as barrier to ethical choices
Ethical consumptions not yet ‘crossing the chasm’
Ethical fashion inhibited by cost implications
Uncertainty about the impact of GMOs
Difficulty in bringing back young people to the countryside
Approaches in this vein needed well beyond cotton
Recognition of product origin thanks to the traceability powered by Thela
Uptake of garment lines made up of natural cotton fabric
Improvement of health and working conditions
Farming as actual innovation driver
Better remuneration of those involved in the production process
Fair remuneration
Environmental preservation thanks to less water depletion and smaller energy consumption
Replication of the model in other regions beyond Greece
Impact amplification powered by the same approach in other supply chains (e.g., silk, wool, hemp)
CO2 reduction due to local sourcing
Relevant impact on the EU agricultural sector at large
Well-being of farming communities
Experiment with sustainable downscaling mechanisms allowing for local sourcing and production closer to market needs
TCBL BC Team + ISMB
‘Short Runs’ Business Case
TCoE, UCV, eZavod, Municipality of Prato
Textile/garment manufacturers (e.g., CMT) situated in disparate countries
Couturiers and fashion houses working on low volumes or bespoke orders
Fashion schools
Technoeconomic validation of the matchmaking mechanisms
Production demand answered by matchmaking (on-line via Sqetch and offline as well)
Lower logistic costs thanks to local sourcing closer to market needs
Awareness about possibilities ushered-in by matchmaking mechanisms
Down time monetization for some local Associate companies
Connection and exchange of skills
Plenty of intermittent and structural overcapacities not yet saturated
Perception of limited room for production flexibility by the ‘old guard’ of companies
Uneven comprehension of workflow reconfiguration mechanisms
Digital matchmaking solutions deemed complex by non techsavvy companies
Specialized players (e.g., Prato Expo, Make it British) involved as service providers
Quality assurance encapsulated into matchmaking platforms
Systematic reduction in minimum order quantities
Aggregation of demand to exert higher bargaining power (demand-side)
Tangible demonstration of flexibility in T&C production
Some initial transactions performed by means of matchmaking platforms
Abundance of spare manufacturing capacities not yet exploited
Group purchasing initiatives
Replicability in other T&C districts
Scalability in each local T&C district
Bridges for cross-border synergies
Sept 17
Universities
Network of local companies (now outside TCBL, primarily in the UK)
District areas
Testing of matchmaking mechanisms (on-line via Sqetch and offline as well)
Shorter logistical journeys and consequent reduction of CO2 emissions
Citizenry
Availability of training and advisory
Perception of limited affordability by the ‘old guard’ of companies
Short runs implementation still initial
Impact of sustainable downscaling still limited by the initial stage of short runs development
Impact of sustainable downscaling still limited by the initial stage of short runs development
Impact amplification (inherent replicability and scalability of the working model)
New local jobs due to the reinforcement of T&C districts involved (especially SMEs)
Slow process of digital transformation
Involvement as service providers and/or scientific advisors
Room for new applied research trajectories
Technology transfer opportunities
Down time monetization (supply-side)
Few machines owned thanks to substantial outsourcing of production (demand-side)
Larger adoption of natural fabrics
Local sourcing enhanced by group purchasing initiatives
Application of the working model to other industries
Micropreneurship opportunities for independent designers with no in-house production
Establish a local consortium that systematically applies sustainability principles to the entire T&C supply chain, from fiber to customer
TCBL BC Team + ISMB
Cleviria, business support organizations (e.g., Process Factory)
Municipality of Prato
Knowledge generated turned into new Thela product features (Cleviria)
Established consortium for supervising the implementation (Prato)
Paucity of specifications and regulations fostering T&C supply chain transparency
Path of revenue expansion (Cleviria)
Sectoral policy actions promoting T&C supply chain transparency (Prato)
‘Eco-Friendly Production’ Business Case
T&C companies in the Prato district (yarn, textile, fabric, dyeing, finishing, etc.)
Students (e.g., ITIS Buzzi in Prato)
New partnerships forged into the local district
Knowledge exchange resulting from working together
Awareness about the possibilities coming from supply chain transparency
Awareness about the possibilities ushered-in by life-cycle thinking
Documentation of adherence to environmental standards via Thela platform
Limited scale due to the early stage of Business Case development
Costs incurred for conducting chemical analysis
Huge R&D investments needed to produce textiles in alternative ways
Need for international certification bodies to certify eco-friendly products
Unemployed people
Sept 17
Brands looking for good publicity (outside Prato district)
Air, water, nature, biodiversity, etc.
Citizens, buyers
Documentation of adherence to environmental standards via Thela platform
Minimization of chemicals in the production cycle (by design)
Products and brands designed to resonate with conscious consumption
Elaboration of a business vision hinged on ethical fashion
Uneven comprehension of sustainability themes on the customer’s side
Limited scale due to the early stage of Business Case development
Widespread presence of lowstandard clothes in the European market
Heavy investments hampering the sectoral way to sustainability
Higher price as potential barrier to sustainable fashion
Onerous budget needed for ambitious advertising campaigns
Entire new breed of market-ready certified products
Market recognition of product quality
New qualified jobs in local T&C companies embracing ecofriendly production
Unlocking of quiescent sources of competitive advantage
Symbolic value (beyond material aspects) as attribute of product uniqueness
High-caliber positions enabled by exponential technologies (e.g., blockchain, DLT)
Attraction of sustainable businesses in the local district
Symbolic value (beyond material aspects) as attribute of product uniqueness
Discontinuity in market positioning
Increased recourse to natural raw materials
Less water depletion
Waste decrease
Health improvement
CO2 reduction due to massive local sourcing
Replication of the approach in other T&C districts (powered by TCBL)
Happiness and gratification for responsible choices
Explore the possibility to serve the industry’s color demand through natural dyes produced by bacteria in lieu of traditional, harmful chemical dyes
TCBL BC Team + ISMB
‘Bio Shades’ Business Case
Team leading the Business Case
WAAG (through TextileLab Amsterdam)
MIRTEC (through Athens Making Lab)
Dyeing and finishing companies, textile producers
Bio-research labs
Visibility and reputation stemming from outstanding research results
Visibility and reputation stemming from outstanding research results
Several expressions of interest from indstrial players
Establishment of a research infrastructure for creative experimentation
Reuse of research facilities (economies of scope)
Awareness about natural dyes stemming from research findings of the Business Case
Availability of a software for dyeing impact analysis
Unproductive plants implying sunk costs and substantial OPEX
Limited market readiness of bacteria dyeing (so far)
Recovery and extraction of bacteriaproduced pigment far from industrial scale
Recovery and extraction of bacteriaproduced pigment far from industrial scale
Market validation still in a very initial stage
Universities
Brands looking for good publicity
Cities, regions
Citizenry, families
Evidence-based reduction in water pollution thanks to bacteria dyeing
Evidence-based reduction in water pollution thanks to bacteria dyeing
Proven feasibility of greener and safer fabrics
No critical mass of startups dealing with natural dyeing
Symbolic value (beyond product material aspects) not yet harnessed
Massive recourse to traditional chemical dyes in the T&C industry
Impact amplification hampered by the need for industrialization
New business creation
‘Technology epiphany’ (technological breakthrough + radical new meaning)
Tangible business opportunities out of solving tough environmental problems
Radical discontinuity in market positioning (‘blue ocean’ opportunities)
Sizable environmental impacts ascribed to natural dyes
Business incubators and accelerators
Knowledge sharing
Tenuous funding from investors (even in an early stage phase)
Sept 17
Existing patents acting as possible roadblock to green innovation trajectories
International careers
Possible entrepreneurial exploitation
Technology transfer opportunities
Spillover effects on other business lines (e.g., Fabricademy, private sector contracts)
Capacity to satisfy the color demand that designers, industry, and consumers create
Conscious consumers conquered through nonchemical dyeing
Fruitful industrial cooperation among likeminded businesses
Industry leadership recognition
Further avenues for applied research in academia
Technology transfer driven by industry’s interest
Economic driver (i.e., saving opportunities) to embrace sustainable fashion
Quality of life enhanced by the actual abatement of pollutants
Opportunity for industry relocation
Establish a digital workflow that turns the untapped knowledge contained in historical T&C archives into source of inspiration for contemporary collections
Textile Museum of Prato employees
TCBL BC Team + ISMB
‘Digital Heritage’ Business Case
Textile Museum of Prato
Textile businesses and fashion designers (initially Italian ones)
Digital portfolio of museum treasures
Rediscovery of tacit knowledge residing in the T&C district
Access to digital versions of fabric archives, book samples, photographic, repertoires, etc.
Skill development in ‘digital makeover’
Tight cooperation with industry
Digital heritage turned into genuine source of inspiration for the design of contemporary collections
Usage of digital heritage to retrace and communicate company history and milestones
Slow digitation of historical textile archives
Wealth of untapped historical T&C archives
Budget constraints for marketing actions
IPR hurdles
Scattered market of complementary goods (e.g., cataloguing, digitization, publication)
More visitors + appeal in exhibitions, Web presence, and content marketing
Delivery of digital-only services (e.g., cultural heritage training)
Visibility and reputation
Scarce culture of conservation in many countries, including Italy
New professional profiles within the museum (e.g., digital heritage specialist)
Simplification of IPR thanks to openness orientation (e.g., Creative Commons)
Increased turnover
Fashion schools, local universities, students, interns
Awareness about how to digitize historical textile archives
Sept 17
Cultural institutions, local governments
Providers of complementary goods (e.g., IT companies)
Initial experimentation in the textile area (e.g., pattern archives)
Awareness about market opportunities (e.g., archive management, training, apps, storytelling)
Enthusiasm for evocative products with reminiscences of styles from earlier times
Uneven digital literacy
‘Digital makeover’ activities not yet approaching a critical mass
Scale of the implementation still initial
Chaotic coordination among cultural institutions
Systematic valorization of T&C-related cultural heritage
Equitable and accessible knowledge sharing (e.g., Creative Commons)
Qualified job creation
Application of the ‘digital makeover’ model well beyond the textile industry
Uneven digital literacy
Scale of the implementation still initial
Continuous release of fascinating, iconic collections based on a consolidated digital workflow
Symbolic value as key attribute of product uniqueness
Establishment of shared databases for ‘collective heritage’
Catalog of internships in ‘digital makeover’
Full-fledged archive management solutions offered with consultancy services
Customers excitement through an eccentric and timeless vibe
Access to an affluent and educated market characterized by considerable willingness to pay
New career paths for young people
Powerful territorial branding emphasizing Prato identity
Digital workflows reusable for many different materials
Cities, regions
Possible CO2 reduction when digital channels avoid people/good movements
Citizenry
Create a network of small workshops that stand out from the mainstream fashion system which support each others through P2P arrangements
ARCA employees
TCBL BC Team + ISMB
‘Independents’ Business Case
ARCA (through Fabbrica ARCA Lab)
Independent small workshops (ranging from 1 to 20 people)
Few T&C startups currently incubated
New high-salary professional profiles within Arca (e.g., digital pattern making specialist)
Services powered by TCBL made available to incubated startups
Fashion schools for vocational training
Affordable production services offered by Independents to other Independents on a proximity basis
Horizontal sharing economy practices managed in absence of monetary transactions
Frugal tools made available for pattern making + training for free via YouTube
Frugal tools made available for managing distant customers (e.g., body scanners)
Struggle for market visibility
Market education on key topics (e.g., costs, fabrics, environmental footprint) very scattered
Difficulty in cultivating certain skills in the ‘old guard’ of Independents
Absence of a digital tool for coordinating collaborative production
Local chambers of commerce and trade associations
Sept 17
Other Place Labs in Europe
Courses given in local schools (e.g., professional institutes, workschool paths)
Scale of the implementation still initial
Collaboration with other TCBL Labs not yet established
Coordination of collaborative production via Sqetch platform
Documentation of adherence to environmental and social standards via Thela platform
Skill acquisition at local level
Talent retention and local employment
Network of European Place Labs reinforcing each others
Support in logistics and smart usage of e-commerce platforms (e.g., Amazon, Etsy, ASOS)
Support for establishing new businesses operating in a ‘fully legal’ way
Enhanced competitiveness of the local territory (e.g., export)
Promotion of legality as fight against organized crime
Air, water, nature, biodiversity, etc.
Citizenry
Reduction of leftover fabrics
Increase of locally produced garments
Impact scale still limited due to the initial stage
Fragility of micro-preneurs and nichepositioned companies in the T&C realm
Hegemonic power of ‘giants’ in T&C supply chain management
More opportunities for entrepreneurship and micropreneurship
Coordination of small T&C companies based on a profit sharing logic
Promotion of natural materials
CO2 reduction due to the increase of proximity production
EU T&C sector as a whole