TCBL HANDBOOKS
THE 2018 CALL FOR TCBL ASSOCIATES
Co-funded by Horizon 2020
ANNEX IV TO TCBL D 4.3, 30 JUNE 2018
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INTRODUCTION TCBL is creating a global movement for a sustainable T&C industry by building a community of innovators and enterprises that share common goals and values. As TCBL becomes an umbrella ‘brand’ representing those values, the procedure for the selection of business to become part of that community gains great importance. This Handbook illustrates the terms, procedures and results of the 2018 Call for Associates, the mechanism through which TCBL labels its community members. This was the third of four yearly Calls foreseen in the TCBL project workplan, and builds on the experience of the previous call with the following main changes: • •
•
The Call procedure is now managed on the Thela platform for supply chain management (https://thela.cleviria.it/) The application questionnaire has become a Checklist against criteria to become a TCBL Associate – Relevance to the T&C sector, Value Added to the TCBL innovation activities, and Coherence with TCBL principles – with scores and thresholds replacing an evaluation process. The decision to use this method to shift to an open rolling Call procedure starting in September 2018.
For the 2018 Call, as well as applications to the rolling procedure thereafter, a Welcome Service will be offered by TCBL Advisors to help applicants improve their scores on the Checklist and link up with the activities and services in which they have shown interest in participating. Starting in September 2018, all information relevant to the Call, including the Call invitation, a downloadable copy of the Checklist, and instructions for compilation, will be available on the TCBL website at: https://tcbl.eu/call-associate-enterprises This document is intended for: • •
Those who participated in the 2018 Call and wish to learn more about the process Those interested in becoming a TCBL Associate through participation in future calls
The Handbook is structured according to the following sections: • • •
A description of the goals of the TCBL Calls for Associate Enterprises A description of the 2018 Call procedure and Welcome Service A summary of the results, including a listing of the 70 new Associate Enterprises
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OBJECTIVES
A central feature of the TCBL approach to scaling up and out is the Associates Programme, which aims to overcome the gap between the EU-funded project partnership and open business ecosystems in the “real world” by “gradually extending the interacting components of the business ecosystem through yearly Calls for Expressions of Interest.”1
THE FIRST TWO CALLS IN 2016 AND 20172 The objective of the first Call in 2016 was to select and define a minimum set (target of 60) of businesses with whom to carry out the first “internal” cycle of pilot experimentation. This implied identifying the desired features of the overall set of businesses, namely including the variety of sizes and innovation strategies and a sufficient mix of supply chain “positions” in order to be able to “compose” different value chains based on different pilot scenarios. The 2016 Call for Associate Enterprises was very successful, given that with a target of identifying 60 enterprises over 120 applications were received and 78 new Associate Enterprises selected. The 2017 Call, for which the target was lower (40 new Associates), was used to test the sustainability of network expansion, committing a lower level of resources specifically to the Call and counting on the enlistment effect of partner and Lab activities as such, together with the dissemination effect of the website and social media activity. Notwithstanding some delays in launching the Call and the lower degree of publicity, the 2017 Call was again successful beyond our expectations. As against the target of 40 new enterprises, 93 organisations registered for participation and a total of 63 application forms were fully completed. During these first two Calls, the distinctive features of the TCBL Associates Programme emerged with regards to a “traditional” call evaluation process, for instance as with H2020 Calls for proposals, as highlighted in the following table. Traditional Call
TCBL
Money is being distributed to the most worthy candidates.
The value proposition offered is mainly based on joining an opportunity-based community.
The number of selections is defined by the limited amount of resources to distribute.
The number of selections is based on the ability of TCBL partners to support the dynamics of interaction between them.
Candidates are in competition with each other
Candidates are selected on the basis of their propensity to collaboration, with no fixed ceiling.
Candidates present innovation projects that they will carry out as planned if their bid is successful.
It is expected that innovation projects will be defined and designed after selection.
Projects are carried out with a pre-defined consortium or set of suppliers.
Projects in TCBL are carried out together with partners that are “discovered”3 from within the
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TCBL contractual Description of Actions p. 14.
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Including text previously published in TCBL Deliverable 4.1.
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
Traditional Call
TCBL
business ecosystem following selection. On-going projects have little or no interaction.
Selected candidates become Associates, a bounded ecosystem that promotes interaction within an innovation community.
Projects follow a fixed time frame with external monitoring and evaluation.
TCBL supports self-evaluation of pilot scenario participants for open-ended experiments that scale up to the “real” world.
In essence, the shift is from a situation where “we” are offering an opportunity and candidates qualify to be worthy of that offer, to one where candidates are being asked how they intend to contribute to an ecosystem that they themselves are being offered the possibility to build. We support the construction of this ecosystem and the collaborative innovation initiatives that animate it, rather than supporting the individual companies participating in it as such.
OBJECTIVES FOR THE 2018 CALL The main objective for the 2018 Call was to reinforce this logic by gradually move the community of TCBL Associates onto a platform where the Call procedure is not an end to itself, but an entry point into a qualified value chain community. The Thela platform supports that shift, since its main purpose is to allow brands to transparently monitor compliance with social, environmental and legal issues through self-assessments, certification, audits, etc. In more concrete terms, the goal was to bring an additional 60 Associates into the ecosystem, attracted by the prospect of participation in the TCBL value-based business community and specifically in on-going innovation initiatives.
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The term “discovery” is used similarly to “Entrepreneurial Discovery” in ERDF Smart Specialisation.
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
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THE 2018 CALL
The Call was thus published on 15 March (in parallel with the new TCBL website), The deadline for registration was thus extended from 15 to 30 April and that for submission of the completed questionnaire from 30 April to 15 May. APPLICATION PROCEDURE The registration feature developed to link the TCBL website with the Thela platform provides applicants with a free subscription to Thela (a commercial service) for the duration of the Call procedure, which extends through 2018 if the application is successful. Applying is a three-step process:4 1. First, the applicant must first sign up to the TCBL Open Platform (use Login on https://tcbl.eu/ and then Sign up!) to use the TCBL Single Sign On facility, then login to the TCBL website. 2. From https://tcbl.eu/call-associate-enterprises, click “Apply”. This leads to a special Signup page, where the applicant compiles a registration form with information about her and her company. Clicking Submit automatically grants the free Supplier license, links the applicant as a “Supplier” to TCBL, and assigns them the 2018 Call questionnaire. A confirmation page shows that registration is successfully completed. 3. At this point, the applicant is registered and can simply go to the Thela homepage at https://thela.cleviria.it/ (there is also a button for this on the confirmation page). It is essential to “Login with TCBL” (login is required again for security reasons), and then one must select “Compiling” on the home page to go to the 2018 Call Checklist questionnaire. The applicant can save her work as she proceeds and click Complete when satisfied with the result. CRITERIA Beyond general company information, the Checklist consists of three sections corresponding to the main criteria for qualification and which were the main evaluation criteria in the previous Calls. •
Relevance: The applicant must fit in with the role of Associate Enterprise. This means it should be active in any way in the T&C sector or wishing to be so in the near future. This can include fashion designers, tailors, textile mills, cotton growers, retail outlets, environmental consultants, service providers, etc: anyone who can potentially become part of a T&C value chain. To validate this criterion the Checklist asks the degree to which the applicant has knowledge and/or experience in the areas of textile and/or garment production and/or related fields ranging from logistics to social impact.
•
Value Added: A strong applicant adds value to the community, by reinforcing its innovative character and enriching its diversity. Of course, a desire to collaborate and innovate together must also transpire.
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The procedure described below will be re-activated with the launch of the open rolling procedure in September 2018.
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
To validate this criterion the Checklist asks the applicant which Business Pilots, Lab Projects and/or Open Platform Services they are interested in using or participating in, and the level of their interest in these innovation processes. •
Coherence: The applicant must demonstrate coherence with the values and principles of the TCBL community, expressed as the 7 TCBL Principles: Curiosity, Viability, Durability, Multiplicity, Openness, Respect, and Responsibility (see https://tcbl.eu/tcblecosystem/values). To validate this criterion the Checklist asks applicants to highlight where and how they can contribute to the community. We are thus not necessarily looking to rate “goodness” on each count, but above all consideration of the issues and commitment to improvement and experience in at least some areas.
VALIDATION AND FOLLOW-UP For the 2018 Call, three TCBL Controllers (from the same set of evaluators as the 2017 Call) checked each of the 70 completed questionnaires and the veracity of their responses. Four questionnaires were below threshold, but those concerned when contacted expressed a desire to increase their commitment to engagement with TCBL in order to raise their scores. All 70 questionnaires were thus accepted as new TCBL Associates. In addition, the responses to the third Call called into question a decision taken in the first Call to limit the role of TCBL Associate to companies actively engaged only in T&C production. The role of TCBL Associate was thus given a broader definition, to include any actor engaged in the T&C industry in any role: designer, producer, consultant, service provider, etc. Being a TCBL Associate can thus overlap with participation in other roles (Advisors, Business Lab, Service Provider): the role of Associate is characterised by the interest in participating directly in business model innovation pilots. In line with this new definition, 21 Associates from the two previous Calls who had successfully completed the relevant questionnaires (and also qualify for the criteria of Relevance), were upgraded to the status of TCBL Associate. In order to follow-up with all new Associates, both to upgrade their Checklist scores and facilitate their integration into the TCBL innovation activities, a Welcome Service to be carried out by TCBL Advisors will be launched in early September 2018.
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
3. TCBL IN 2018 The state of the TCBL network, including all roles, is shown below for 2018, as a result of this Call and the parallel activities for enlisting new Labs, Startups, Service Providers and Creative Hubs.
ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2018 CALL. Name
City/Region
MS
Description
2T - Soluções de Impressão, Lda.
Sao Joao da Madeira
PT
Services in printing, laser cutting, and finishing
4M Fashion
Iasi
RO
New brand for kidswear and accessories
Anikogaldesign
Bologna
IT
Independent designer-producer for sustainability
Anma Mag
Volos
EL
Technical clothing and protective equipment
Argo Art Consulting
Bucuresti
RO
Fashion designs inspired by regional artists
Baby Look SA
Athens
EL
Baby clothes
Body2Garment Solutions
Den Haag
NL
Patternmaking consultants
Braco Sports
Larissa
EL
Sportswear
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
Name
City/Region
MS
Description
Brandi & Bandi d.o.o. (Hiddenstitch)
Ljubljana
SI
Ethical fashion consultants and designers
Centre for Citizenship, Enterprise & Governance
Northampton
UK
Blockchain service tracking social value
Confectii Integrate Moldova
Iasi
RO
Large scale garment production
Cortex doo
Tolmin
SI
Small t-shirt with nature lifestyle concept
Cotton Diaries
Portsmouth
UK
Video stories of cotton
Dabadubada d.o.o. /Things I Miss
Ljubljana
SI
Independent designer brand
Darja Malešič, s.p.
Ljubljana
SI
Individual designer launching own brand
Demiuma Comimpex
Bucuresti
RO
Large womenswear producer, Nissa brand
Destilator
Pivka
SI
Small upscaling craftsmanship
EFL
Veneto
IT
Startup marketing independents
Es' SRL
Firenze
IT
Concept brand with a social purpose
Exclusiv Comp
Iasi
RO
Irina Schrotter upscale womenswear brand
exetexconf srl
Constanta
RO
Garment production including the EXE brand
gipsy and clown
Mavčiče
SI
Small, tailored denim, quality
Good On You
Amsterdam
NL
Brand rating and mobile shopping app
Gorfoo
Paris
FR
Eco-brand, TCBL-IFM prize
Goucam Group
Viseu
PT
Large scale garment producer
Her Dress Atelier
Iasi
RO
Custom made atelier
Hyperborea Srl
Navacchio di Cascina
IT
ICT services with a focus on culture
Indiese Intent
Smlednik
SI
Small scale design and production
Inseta S.r.l.
Prato
IT
Prato textile producer
Lanificio Leo
Soveria Mannelli
IT
Wool textiles
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
Name
City/Region
MS
Description
Lanificio Mario Bellucci spa
Prato
IT
Medium sized fabric production
Le Petit Bossu
Neo Voutza
EL
Artist-designer with heritage designs
Maen productions
Hertogenbosch
NL
Designer and production matchmaker
Maison Chouchou
Iasi
RO
Independent designer-producer
Mareight
Volpago del Montello
IT
Printing
Marini Industrie
Prato
IT
Textiles in Prato
Mateja Perosa
Bristol
UK
Social enterprise for patterns and sewing
MD Fashion Lab
Bucuresti
RO
Independent womenswear designerproducer
Mija Curk s.p. / Sofia Nogard
5270
SI
Original accessories (e.g. solar backpack)
Modni Studio 21. Stoletje
maribor
SI
Tailor's atelier
NCN Collection Srl
Iasi
RO
Small scale garment production
Nika-ĹĄiv d.o.o.
Železniki
SI
Small in sports and technical uniforms
Nissa Manufacture
Craiova
RO
Womensware in the Nissa brand
Nissintex Fashion
Giurgiu
RO
Nissa brand
Nourp Group
Calarasi
RO
Alda Ciceu's designs for elegant evening gowns
Pinkponilo
Budapest
HU
Sewing and clothes repair workshop
Plektiria Thessalias
41500
EL
Knit single and double-side jersey
Pletisa
Metlika
SI
Cotton clothing
Printerzone.srl
Piatra Neamt
RO
Startup for textile printing and embroidery
REMOkey
Amsterdam
NL
Service provider
Resort Prod
Constanta
RO
Brise brand garment production
Riccardo Rami Studio
Prato
IT
Design consultants with global brands
PT
Sustainable wool, local traditions
Salva la Portuguesa
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
Name
City/Region
MS
Description
SC Moda Miss Srl
Suceava
RO
Women's apparel
SC Stefitex Srl
Iasi
RO
Dynamic small apparel producer
Smirodava S.A.
Roman
RO
Large scale garment production, knitting, retail
Sofiaman
Tg. Neamt
RO
Large scale garment production
Staff Color Energy
Larissa
EL
Sustainable dyeing and finishing
Stofe Buhusi SA
Buhusi
RO
SME for wool textiles
TecnoCampus Foundation
Mataró
ES
Technology park for textiles research
Tekyn
Paris
FR
On-demand 4.0 pre-production services
Tenthorey
Eloyes
FR
Established cotton mill
Texmoda Tessuti Srl
Prato
IT
Prato textile firm
Thessalian clothing manufacturers and subcontactors network
Larissa
EL
Network of 20 T&C SMEs
Tintex Textiles SA
Campos – Vila Nova de Cerveira
PT
Smart and eco-fabrics
Titera doo
Murska Sobota
SI
Technology transfer for T&C
Vertical Fashion
Forlì
IT
On-line brand based on transparent cost structure
Webservice
Iasi
RO
Fashion-oriented ICT services
Zavod Korak naprej Murska Sobota, so.p.
Murska Sobota
SI
Small business wanting to make recycled clothes
Zeus+Dione
Athens
EL
Luxury and quality, garment design and production
ASSOCIATES UPGRADED FROM PREVIOUS CALLS Name
City/Region
MS
Description
4 Sustainability
Prato
IT
Reduction of chemical usage in textiles
Al Revés società cooperative
Palermo
IT
Social sewing
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
Name
City/Region
MS
Description
Athens Traders Association
Athens
EL
Athens traders association
Centro Consorzi
Prato
IT
Textile consortium
Fibrenamics
Norte
PT
Fibres research
Green'ing
Paris
FR
Plants, natural dyes
La Fabrique
Paris
FR
Fashion management school
Lucideon
Yorkshire
UK
Materials technologies, testing & characterisation
Multidata
Prato
IT
ICT services for textile industry
Next Technology Tecnotessile
Prato
IT
Tuscany textile R&D hub
Opera Fabri
Milano
IT
3d printing services
PatternMade4You
Utrecht
NL
Patternmaking software
Programma Ambiente
Prato
IT
Integrated waste management
SEPEE
Athens
EL
Fashion association
Seta Etica
Veneto
IT
Silk road in Veneto Region
Society of Dyers and Colourists
London
UK
Textile processing
Sourcebook
Berlin
DE
Digital T&C community
Stefano Panconesi
Biella
IT
Natural dyeing and organic textiles
Technical University Crete
Crete
EL
Production Engineering
Tsiakiris
Athens
EL
Silk
University of Piraeus
Piraeus
EL
Garment engineering
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The 2018 Call for TCBL Associates TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs
DOCUMENT INFORMATION REVISION HISTORY This Handbook is published as Annex IV to TCBL Deliverable 4.3, “T&C Business Systems: Engagement and Impact”. Authors: Athanase Contargyris (MIRTEC), Jesse Marsh (Prato), Bill Macbeth (TCoE) and Filippo Mazzariol (UCV). This document in particular was edited by Jesse Marsh, City of Prato. REVISION Version 1 Version 2
DATE
AUTHOR
14.06.2018 07.08.2018
Jesse Marsh Jesse Marsh
ORGANISATION
DESCRIPTION
City of Prato City of Prato
Full draft for review Final version incorporating reviewers’ comments.
STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY This deliverable contains original unpublished work except where clearly indicated otherwise. Acknowledgement of previously published material and of the work of others has been made through appropriate citation, quotation or both.
COPYRIGHT This work is licensed by the TCBL Consortium under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License, 2015-2016. For details, see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/ The TCBL Consortium, consisting of: Municipality of Prato (PRATO) Italy; German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research - Center for Management Research (DITF) Germany; Istituto Superiore Mario Boella (ISMB) Italy; Skillaware (SKILL) Italy; Oxford Brookes University (OBU) UK; imec (IMEC) Belgium; Tavistock Institute (TAVI) UK; Materials Industrial Research & Technology Center S.A. (MIRTEC) Greece; Waag Society (WAAG) Netherlands; Huddersfield & District Textile Training Company Ltd (TCOE) UK; eZavod (eZAVOD) Slovenia; Consorzio Arca (ARCA) Italy; Unioncamere del Veneto (UCV) Italy; Hellenic Clothing Industry Association (HCIA) Greece; Sanjotec - Centro Empresarial e Tecnológico (SANJO) Portugal; Reginnova NE (Reginnova) Romania, Centexbel (CTB) Belgium, Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) France, IAAC (FabTextiles) Spain, Cleviria (Cleviria) Italy, and Sqetch (Sqetch) Netherlands.
DISCLAIMER All information included in this document is subject to change without notice. The Members of the TCBL Consortium make no warranty of any kind with regard to this document, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The Members of the TCBL Consortium shall not be held liable for errors contained herein or direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The TCBL project has received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under Grant Agreement n. 646133.
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