Saturday, April 16, 2016 An advertising feature of The Topeka Capital-Journal
Head start on growing season
Container gardening page 6
n Jamie Kidd on perennial gardens, page 2 n The bigger, the better at Burpee, page 5 n Avoid these tree-planting mistakes, page 7
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REX WOLF/SPECIAL TO THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL
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Planning key to great perennial garden Everything seems to have a history. Perennial garden design is no different. In the 1890s, George Nicholson was the curator of the Royal Botanical Gardens in Kew, England. At his suggestion, a garden of entirely perennial plants was created — a new concept. Previous garden designs incorporated annuals, perennials and shrubs. Perennials had such short bloom periods they were thought of as incidental accents rather than the main event. Nicholson studied the blooming periods of perennial flowers and charted them into “seasonal� categories. If things were timed correctly, he could create a garden that bloomed continuously. Perennial gardens can be borders or islands and be intermixed with the annuals being the accents. Originally, perennial gardens were set against a backdrop of a hedge or
Jamie Kidd Jamie KiDD
jamiehan@ksu.edu jamiehan@ksu.edu
fence. The tallest flowers were placed in the back, medium in the middle and shortest in the front. The disadvantage to this design is it can only be viewed from one side and requires a great deal of space. Island gardens were introduced in the 1950s. They are set in lawn areas and can be viewed from all sides. This allows for a more creative design. Air circulation is much improved, reducing fungal problems. Taller specimens are generally placed in the center of the bed, and their height, as
a rule, is usually no more than half the width of the bed. Many homeowners today have limited space to devote solely to perennials. Mixing perennials into shrub beds and accenting with annuals is a wonderful solution to small spaces. I find it exciting in larger landscapes as well. Shrubs offer structure and framework and will enhance winter interest after the perennials and annuals have faded with the frost. Here are some tips on starting a perennial garden: n Determine your gardening goals. How large a garden do you want and, more importantly, how large a garden are you willing/able to take care of? Do you want a border or an island? n Locate your garden for ease of access from at least two sides (it will be easier to maintain), proximity to outdoor living areas and visibility from
within the home. Gardens may be accent pieces in the front yard or places of meditation in the backyard. Most perennials require about 10 hours of sunshine a day. Shade-loving perennials such as ferns, bleeding hearts and hostas need much less sunlight or filtered shade. n The garden design should be a maximum of 8 feet in width; otherwise, use stepping stones to allow easy access through the garden and prevent soil compaction. Measure the proposed site and draw it to scale using graph paper. One inch for 4 feet or 1 inch for 2 feet works well. On the design plan, locate existing structures, walls, water/ electric lines, fences, walks, existing plants, trees and shrubs. Also, sketch the desired outline of the bed. It is often helpful to place a garden hose around the
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Bigger better for seed catalog By Debbie Arrington The Sacramento Bee
George Ball knows what gets gardeners’ pulses racing. When it comes to envisioning summer’s garden, bigger sells better, said Ball, president of Pennsylvaniabased seed catalog giant W. Atlee Burpee & Co. Most stunning is Jaws, Burpee’s first 12-inch sweet corn. Supply of this seed is limited, so it is available only at www.burpee.com. “It’s unbelievable,” Ball said. “It’s the most exciting introduction I’ve ever done in 25 years.” A naturally occurring variation, Jaws is gigantic. It is as big around as most ears are long. “When you bite into it,” Ball said, “you’ve got to double-clutch your teeth, take a double bite to get through it.
“When I first saw it, it was freaky, really unbelievablelooking,” he added. “We scraped fresh-picked ears and found it yielded about three times as many kernels as a normal ear.” Typically, corn yields a half cup of kernels per ear; Jaws yields 1 1/2 cups. “People want more yield, and varieties like Jaws will be at the forefront of that,” Ball said. “You get more corn in the same space.” The plants grow “extraordinarily tall — 6 or 7 feet,” he noted. “The corn is beautiful, golden, with good corn flavor. It’s not super sweet, but tastes corny without being chewy.” Another best-selling corn variety was recently introduced: On Deck, the first full-size corn meant to grow in containers. That reflects another trend; gardeners
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The ears of Jaws are 7 inches round and about a foot long.
want big veggies in less space. “They want more value,” he said. “They want things that are beautiful with vivid color and a lot of yield. They want a lot.”
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Fan flowers, lantana among the options for containers By Shanna Sloyer Special to The Capital-Journal
April showers bring May flowers, but if you want to get a head start on the growing season, consider planting flowers, vegetables and herbs in pots and containers. Easy enough to bring in out of the cold should temperatures drop, container gardening also requires less maintenance than planting in beds, and the varieties of plants available are numerous. Brett Blackburn, president and owner of Blackburn Nursery, says several factors play into selecting plants for container gardening. He encourages customers to consider whether the containers will be in the sun or shade and how much maintenance they are willing or able to provide. Coleus, a foliage plant that comes in hues of green, red and purple, is easy to maintain and is available in varieties that do well in either sun or shade. According to Blackburn, the only maintenance requirement for coleus is that it be watered on occasion. On the other hand, geraniums can be more timeintensive, as the blooms must be pinched back to encourage growth. For anyone who loves the look of geraniums, but not the time commitment they require, Blackburn recommends Calliope Dark Red varieties, which don’t need as much maintenance and can withstand temperamental climates better than zonal geraniums. “One mistake that people make is to plant flowers in containers that look great until the weather hits 80 degrees,” Blackburn said. “When the weather turns hotter, they don’t look as good.” His solution to keeping container plants looking
TIPS FOR PLANTING IN CONTAINERS n Consider how much exposure plants will have to sun or shade and choose plants accordingly. n Use a properly-sized pot for the plant so it doesn’t outgrow the pot midseason. n Buy a good potting mix. Chain store soil is often too high in salt — if you see a white ring on the pot at the end of the gardening season, that is an indication of high salt content — or it stays too wet, resulting in molding. Look for a soil that contains mycorrhizae, a root enhancer that helps to establish strong root systems. n Soak plants down and then allow them to dry out a bit before watering again. Spread out watering for stronger root systems. n Use a water-soluble fertilizer, such as Ferti-Lome or Jack’s, to make plants grow stronger, healthier and more vibrant.
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If you forget to water, use a container that is nonporous and holds water better, like a pottery piece. If you tend to overwater, choose a more porous container that dries out faster, like a clay pot that allows the plant to breathe.” Annette Jackson
owner of Jackson’s Greenhouse
great all summer long is to plant flowers that may be less showy in the spring but can withstand the heat of the summer. Good choices include Mexican heather, pentas, fan flowers and lantana. For combination planters, Blackburn likes to pair blue fan flowers with gold lantana for beautiful color all summer long. Succulent plants are also a popular choice right now, and many people are pairing succulents with houseplants. Not only do these plants require less watering, they also can be brought inside during the winter months and used season after season. Other recommended pairings include spike grass or purple fountain grass with a cascading plant like petunias, or for shadier areas, caladium paired with lobelia. If you are looking for something with both aesthetic and practical appeal, try planting citronella-scented geraniums with decorative
grasses to help keep the mosquitoes away.
Don’t forget the veggies
For gardeners who enjoy eating the fruits of their labors, there are many bush varieties of vegetables that do well in containers, including squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and herbs. “You can grow anything in containers,” said Annette Jackson, owner of Jackson’s Greenhouse. Jackson recommends pairing herbs with tomatoes, peppers, radishes, lettuce and carrots. She stresses gardeners should choose the containers they use for planting based on how much time they can devote to maintaining the plants. “If you forget to water, use a container that is nonporous and holds water better, like a pottery piece,” Jackson said. “If you tend to overwater, choose a more porous container that dries out faster,
photographs by REX WOLF/SPECIAL TO THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL
Petunias are popular flowers when it comes to container gardening. Petunias, which can be used in a variety of container types, can be paired with other plants to create an attractive display. like a clay pot that allows the plant to breathe.” She stresses the importance of choosing a quality garden mix that drains properly. Plain topsoil doesn’t drain well in containers, and Jackson cautions gardeners about soils that hold water at the plant’s root system, not allowing it to breathe. Vegetables need to be in full sunlight, and Jackson recommends fertilizing on a regular basis with a watersoluble fertilizer that doesn’t contain added salt.
Hold off on planting
While some people are starting to plant their container gardens now, both Blackburn and Jackson warn against planting anything that can’t easily be moved inside when the temperatures drop. If containers are large and difficult to move, they recommend waiting until the end of April or beginning of May. Vegetables like lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, radishes, carrots, peas and straw-
A tiny gnome peers out from the foliage planted in this container. berries can handle the colder temperatures, but wait until the first of May to plant tomatoes, eggplant, squash, cucumbers and peppers unless they can be brought indoors in case of a late frost. You also can check K-State Research and Extension’s website for recommended planting dates. The quality of the plants used will determine how successfully your garden will grow this season. Chain store plants may or may not be suited for the temperamental climate of Kansas.
A professional nursery can help you determine the best plants for your maintenance needs and the area in which you live. “It’s important to have someone who can tell you how to take care of a plant and who you can get advice from,” Blackburn said. “Buy high-quality plants, put them in the right location with the right fertilizer and soil, and they will do well.” Shanna Sloyer is a freelance writer from Topeka. You can reach her at ssloyer@yahoo.com.
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Location key when planting trees By Linda A. Ditch Special to The Capital-Journal
While flowers and shrubs are the stars of a home landscape, trees are the foundation. They anchor the rest of the yard, often dictating where everything else is planted and how decks and patios are located. No matter how beautiful a yard may be, it looks naked without trees. Arbor Day is celebrated on the last Friday of April, which makes this a good month to consider adding trees to your home’s landscape. Also, consider the fact that a tree planted in the right spot can cut your home cooling costs by 25 percent to 50 percent. Start by picking a location for the new tree. Landscape designer Brandon Weakley, of Skinner Garden Store, noted one of the biggest mistakes homeowners make is tree placement. “They plant it too close to the house, or they don’t consider where the leaves will fall,” Weakley said. “Mostly, they don’t put enough thought into how big the tree will get.” First, think about how much room the tree will need when it is fully grown. Plus, avoid planting in areas where there is a lot of water runoff, such as the bottom of a hill. Also, be sure to pay attention to power lines and any easement areas around the property. The next step is choosing
the variety of tree. Skinner’s general manager Cameron Rees pointed out that everyone wants the perfect tree — often one planted in the center of the yard, perfectly shaped, with great fall color. Some things to consider when picking a tree: Do you want a tree that is pretty in the fall or has beautiful flowers in the spring? Do you want a shade tree? Do you want an evergreen or a deciduous tree that drops its leaves in the fall? Rees and Weakley said the most popular trees for Topeka homeowners are maple, crabapple and oak. However, they caution against planting all one type of tree. “Diversity is important,” Rees said. “It is important to not plant the same trees as everyone else. The trees get over-planted. Then, when something happens, like an infestation of ash borer or Scotch pine wilt, whole areas of trees are wiped out. Consider the diversity within a property, neighborhood and city.” Don’t be afraid to ask people like Weakley and Rees for help and suggestions. “I think the biggest mistake people make is they don’t plant the tree,” Rees said. “They put it off. The best thing to do is get the tree planted and let it grow.” Linda A. Ditch is a freelance writer from Topeka. She can be reached at thompson. lindaa@gmail.com.
LINDA A. DITCH/special to THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL
Skinner Garden Store general manager Cameron Rees, left, and landscape designer Brandon Weakley, who also works at the store, check out a Royal Raindrops crabapple tree at the nursery.
HOW TO PLANT A TREE
1. Dig a shallow, broad hole at least three times the diameter of the root ball and just deep enough to allow for the top 10 percent to 20 percent of the root ball to be above the ground. Amend the soil with compost. 2. If the tree is in a container, remove it and loosen the roots. Place it into the hole, adjusting for the correct depth if necessary. If the tree’s root ball is wrapped in burlap, place it in the hole, adjust the depth and cut the burlap away from the root ball. 3. One big mistake is planting a tree too deep. Don’t plant the tree below the trunk flare, which is where the trunk spreads out at the base of the tree. This area should be above the soil. 4. Straighten the tree in the hole. 5. Fill the hole with soil, packing it down around the root ball to stabilize the tree. 6. Stake the tree to give it support while the roots are established. While this step isn’t always necessary, it is a good idea in this windy area. 7. Place a layer of mulch 2 to 4 inches deep around the base of the tree, making sure you keep the mulch at least 2 inches away from the tree trunk to prevent decay. 8. Water the tree well, and then water at least once a week depending on the weather conditions. Also, using a root stimulator can help establish the tree’s root system.
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Perennial: Garden will always have something in bloom if done right Continued from 2 area to visualize the size and shape you would like. n Choose plants using K-State Research and Extension’s “Prairie Bloom” perennial list of plants proven to grow well in Kansas. It is available at www.shawnee.ksu.edu.
Also, use books on the market about perennial gardens for reference. A perennial garden can be like an orchestra. Each area “plays” its music at a different time and sometimes at the same time. The bloom times overlap. When done well, something is always blooming.
Plant the same variety of perennials in groups of three, five or seven. These are called “drifts.” It will make for a more spectacular show of color. Repeating groups of the same plant in different areas will create uniformity. Placing perennial plants randomly and singly
will appear chaotic and unkempt. Avoid planting in straight rows. Use a scattered pattern or triangular spacing so one mass blends into another. The planning stage is often overlooked by an impatient gardener. The results are often a haphazard collection of plants that
will need to be moved to new locations. A little time in the planning stage will greatly reduce the labor needed to move or remove plants later on. Several weeks before frost in the fall can be a good time to plant perennials so they are ready for spring growth. Get your
thinking cap on and create a design using the resources mentioned here. The ultimate goal of a perennial garden is a personally pleasing flow of plant material from season to season. Jamie Kidd is a horticulturist with K-State Research and Extension in Shawnee County.
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