occasions Newfoundland & Labrador

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holiday helpers. Pi単a Colada Float

Mocha Madness

Strawberry Shortcake

Frutta di Bosco Chocolate Brownie Extreme

Exclusively at Our decadent Chocolate Dessert Cups are handmade in our bakery with real whipped cream, fresh fruit and 72% dark chocolate!


Winter | 2012/13

CONTENTS

occasions Occasions is a premier food and drink magazine published by Transcontinental Media for NLC and is intended for the enjoyment of Newfoundland & Labrador consumers. Publication Director: Greg Gill, NLC Food & Drink Editor: Mark DeWolf Editorial Board: Rob Simms – VP Sales and Marketing, NLC Greg Gill – Director, Marketing and Communications, NLC Vicki Colbourne - Category Manager, Spirits / Beers, NLC Blair Boland – Category Manager, Wines, NLC Erin Brennan - Special Events Coordinator, NLC Mark DeWolf – Food & Drink Editor, Transcontinental Group Publisher TC Media: Fred Fiander Regional Director of Sales: Joel Hartlen Account Executives: John Eagles, Mark DeWolf, Annie Langley Food & Drinks Editor: Mark DeWolf Art Director: john eaton Advertising Coordination: Meaghan Ferdinand Photography: Perry Jackson, Ellie Yonova Food Stylist & Props: Mark DeWolf, Kelly Neil Contributing Writers: Karen Armstrong, Mark DeWolf, Liz Feltham, Michele LeBlanc, Pat Thompson Copy Editor: Ken Partridge

Themed Celebration

Tasting Menu

Copyright 2012/2013 by TC Media Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without expressed written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. Materials submitted for consideration should be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited materials.

211 Horseshoe Drive Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3S 0B9 Tel: 902.421-5888 Fax: 902.425.8118 occasions@holidaymedia.ca www.tc.tc Disclaimer Occasions Magazine makes no warranties of any kind, written or implied, regarding the contents of this magazine and expressly disclaims any warranty regarding the accuracy or reliability of information contained herein. Occasions Magazine further disclaims any responsibility for injuries or death incurred by any person or persons engaging in these activities. The views contained in this magazine are those of the writers and advertisers; they do not necessarily reflect the views of Occasions Magazine and its publisher, TC Media. Please note all products listed within this publication are available in most NLC stores throughout Newfoundland & Labrador. Prices and availability subject to change without notice.

Newfoundland Labrador Liquor Corporation P. O. Box 8750, Station A, 90 Kenmount Road St. John's, NL A1B 3V1 Fax: (709) 724-1152 Phone:(709) 724-1100

Published for

www.nlliquor.com

Mixology

Inside Welcome Undiscovered Treasures Drink of the Season Themed Celebration Liquid Lexicon Gifting Expert Advice Tasting Menu Mixology Restaurant Spotlight Local Flavour Grape Expectations Last Bite

4 6 8 11 20 24 26 29 34 39 42 45 50

On the Cover On the Cover Winter’s here! Time to bundle up for cold weather fun! After a brisk day outside, get the gang together back at the house or cabin for a pot of hearty stew and spiked hot chocolate. page 11

Published By

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WELCOME

WELCOME | The Winter Issue

Winter

to a of

Contentment

Soup’s On Outdoor activities are a big part of most Newfoundland and Labrador residents’ winter schedule. We’ve devised a menu featuring hearty soups, designed for an after-ski –skating, or – tobogganing party. These comfort foods are guaranteed to warm up you guests after a day out enjoying the brisk winter air. Enjoy the recipes in our Themed Celebration article, found on page page 11. Inspired by the Classics What better time to curl up in front of a fire than a cold winter’s eve? We suggest putting on an old movie from the 1960s with a bag of popcorn and a warming cocktail. In our Mixology feature, found on page 34, we’re serving up some classic cocktails inspired by Mad Men and the Rat Pack.

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A Taste of Bordeaux NLC is hosting its first Wines of Bordeaux Tasting Event this coming February. The tasting features an impressive lineup of Bordeaux wines and should be the wine event of the year. To get you primed for this special event, we’ve provided a crash course on Bordeaux. Read our Special Events feature on pg 45 and discover for yourself why the wines of Bordeaux are revered amongst wine enthusiasts and collectors alike. Go Out and Get Cozy This winter get out and enjoy our province’s tastes. As Karen Armstrong discovers, Newfoundland and Labrador is home to some wonderful restaurants that are sure to make it worthwhile to venture into the cold. Karen sits down in the comforting environs of Aqua, Basho, and Madison’s in this edition’s Restaurant Spotlight. Find the article on page 39.

Occasions Winter 2012/2013


This is my place..

to make memories with my

friends family and

This is my season. Colour and light and his little eyes wide with wonder. And this is my place. A place where time stands still. Away from the hustle and bustle, this is the place for enchanted dreams and family traditions. For comforts and joys, and a pocket full of magical mummers. Because I want him to feel the warmth of a homegrown holiday...

This is our place.

Visit our website for a full list of Christmas programs.

www.therooms.ca 709.757.8000 | 9 Bonaventure Ave. | St. John’s, NL


GREAT FINDS | The Winter Issue

Undiscovered Infused with Spirit Infuse a little life into your next holiday party by serving spirits enhanced with natural flavours. Lamb’s has retooled its Black Sheep Rum recipe, and now this vanilla-infused spirit is a delicious treat that can be mixed, cooked with, or enjoyed on its own. Closer to home, Newfoundland & Labrador’s own Auk Island Winery has merged the sweet molasses flavours of Screech Dark Rum with a local blueberry wine to create a unique product best served with a little soda. The result is a wildly delicious spritzer. For a treat that’s delicious anytime, look no further than the latest offering from Bailey’s. Their newest version, infused with biscotti – Italy’s famous twice baked almond cookies – will add flare to any occasion. Wines to Impress Wow your guests with these offerings from your local Liquor Store. Champagne Veuve Doussot Demi-Sec is a fragrant Champagne with just a hint of sweetness. Serve it before a meal, with pâté, or as

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TREASURES

a refreshing closer accompanied by a light fruit-based dessert. When it comes to a red wine to serve with the main course, we’ve looked south (way south) for our inspiration. Norton Malbec Reserve and Irony Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon are two wines that have won over critics with concentrated fruit flavours, impressive structure, and affordable price tags. Both wines regularly receive scores of over 90 points from recognized wine critics. Inspired by the Old Country Mill Street Tankhouse is a pale ale inspired by the traditional beers brewed in England, but with a North American twist. This full-bodied ale is loaded with toasty malt and spicy hop character. The North American twist is the origin of the Cascade hops, which are grown in the Pacific Northwest.

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

Also new to the is The Singleton of Glendullan, the last distillery built in Dufftown, in the heart of Speyside. Of course, being the young kid in town in Speyside means it’s still more than 100 years old. This Single Malt is a delicate yet spicy dram with a creamy, smooth palate and lingering dry finish. Featured Products: Lamb’s Black Sheep Spiced Rum (750 ml, $27.25) Outport Blueberry (375 ml, $14.95) Bailey’s Biscotti `Liqueur (750ml, $30.98) Champagne Veuve Doussot Demi-Sec (750 ml, $45.49) Bodega Norton Malbec Reserve (Argentina, $18.48) Irony Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (California, $22.99) Mill Street Tankhouse Ale (6 pack, $13.99) The Singleton of Glendullan 12 YO (750 ml, $49.99)



DRINK OF THE SEASON | Winter

THE TASTE OF

winter CRAN-CITRUS PROSECCO PUNCH Serves 1 Ingredients 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 2 oranges, zested, juiced 4 cups cranberry juice 1 bottle LaMarca Prosecco (Italy, $19.48) Orange slices for garnish Directions 1. Place the sugar, water and orange zest in pot over medium-high heat. 2. When the sugar dissolves, remove from the heat and let cool; strain. 3. Combine the orange juice, cranberry juice, sugar and water solution (simple syrup) in a large container or punch bowl. 4. Ladle punch into glasses and top with equal amounts of Prosecco. 5. Add orange slices to each glass and serve.

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Occasions Winter 2012/2013


ALL NNEW EW LOOK LOOK. K. SAME SMOOTH SMOOTH TASTE. A

OFFERING AWARD WINNING WHISKY SINCE 1858 2012 INTERNATIONAL WINE AND SPIRITS COMPLETION SILVER MEDAL Canadian Club Premium, Canadian Club Reserve & Canadian Club Classic 2012 CANADIAN WHISKY AWARDS SILVER MEDAL Canadian Club Premium 2012 SAN FRANCISCO WORLD SPIRITS COMPETITION SILVER MEDAL Canadian Club Classic Canadian Club® Canadian Whisky, 40% Alc./Vol. © 2012 Canadian Club Whisky Company, Walkerville, Ontario, Canada www.facebook.com/canadianclubcanada



Soup’s on! by Liz Feltham

Winter’s here! Time to bundle up for cold weather fun: skiing, snowboarding, skating, or sledding. After a brisk day outside, get the gang together back at the house or cabin for a pot of hearty stew and spiked hot chocolate. Après-ski (or skate, or sled) parties should be relaxed and easy: hot soup simmering gently on the stove, a stack of bowls and spoons (and homemade biscuits) at the ready. Make a soup buffet by placing covered ceramic pots or soup tureens on home-made trivets on the buffet and let

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FOOD | Themed Celebration

Spicy Corn & Black Bean Stew guests help themselves. We’ve added a crafty chalkboard menu to our buffet, so guests know which wonderful soup awaits them in each pot.

Spicy Corn & Black Bean Stew Serve with Oyster Bay Hawkes Bay Merlot (New Zealand, $20.49)

Be sure to provide potholders and lots of ladles for ease of service, and don’t forget the drinks. Set out a thermos or two of hot chocolate (adult and kid friendly versions) and let the warmth of hot soup and good company drive away the icy chill.

1 tsp olive oil 3 cloves garlic, crushed ½ cup diced celery ¼ cup diced red onion 1 tsp chopped jalapeno pepper 1 cup cooked black beans ½ cup corn kernels ½ cup vegetable stock 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes

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Serves 4-6 Ingredients

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

Directions 1. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. 2. Add the garlic, celery, red onion, and jalapeno pepper and cook until softened. 3. Add the beans, corn, vegetable stock, and tomatoes. 4. Bring the stew to a simmer; stir and serve.


FOOD | Themed Celebration

Sweet Potato & Bourbon Soup

Sweet Potato & Bourbon Soup Serve with J. Lohr Riverstone Arroyo Seco Chardonnay (California, $18.98) Serves 4-6 Ingredients 4 slices bacon, diced 2 large sweet potatoes, cubed 1 medium yellow potato, cubed 1 tsp flour 2 cups vegetable stock ½ oz Jim Beam Black Bourbon (750 ml, $29.99)

Directions 1. Cook the bacon in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. 2. When the bacon begins to crisp, drain off the fat, reserving one teaspoon. 3. Set the bacon aside, return fat to pot, and add the sweet potatoes and yellow potatoes. 4. Cook over low-medium heat, covered, until the potatoes are tender. 5. Sprinkle flour over the vegetables and continue cooking for two to three minutes. 6. Slowly add the vegetable stock, stirring continually, until the broth is thickened. 7. Add the Bourbon and reserved bacon and serve.

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Chicken & Chorizo Stew Serve with Tapena Garnacha (Spain, $15.99) Serves 4-6 Ingredients 1 tbsp butter ¼ cup diced yellow onion ½ cup diced celery ½ cup diced carrots 1½ cups chicken stock 1 tbsp all-purpose flour 1 cup diced potato, washed and unpeeled 1½ cups diced chorizo (spicy dry-cured Spanish sausage) 1½ cups diced cooked chicken Salt & pepper to taste

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FOOD | Themed Celebration

Chicken & Chorizo Stew Directions 1. Heat the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. 2. Add the onion, celery and carrots and cook until softened, stirring occasionally. 3. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and sauté. Stir for two to three minutes, until the flour has absorbed butter. 4. Slowly pour in the chicken stock; bring to a simmer and then add the potatoes. 5. Continue simmering until the potatoes are cooked. 6. Add the chorizo, chicken and season with salt and pepper; serve.

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Talking Turkey Soup Editor’s Tip: Be sure to get a Spanish-style chorizo as they are already cooked (technically speaking, they have been cured). If you can’t find Spanish-style chorizo, you can use Mexican style, but you will need to cook the sausages first.

Talking Turkey Soup Serve with Arboleda Chardonnay (Chile, $17.97) Serves 4-6 Ingredients 3 cups turkey stock (prepare as per chicken stock) ¼ cup uncooked pearl barley ½ cup diced carrot ½ cup diced onion ½ cup diced celery ½ cup diced turnip Occasions Winter 2012/2013

½ cup diced cooked turkey ½ tsp summer savoury ¼ tsp dried sage leaves Salt & pepper to taste

Directions 1. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot over high heat, bring turkey stock to a boil. 2. Add the barley and then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Add the carrot, onion, celery and turnip and continue to simmer, uncovered, for another 25-30 minutes. The barley should be soft and vegetables should be tender. 4. Stir in the turkey, savoury and sage. Season with salt and pepper; serve.


FOOD | Themed Celebration

Chill Busting Chili

Chill Busting Chili Serve with Pump House Fire Chief’s Red Ale (6 x 341 ml, $13.99) Serves 4-6 Ingredients 4 strips uncooked bacon, roughly chopped ½ cup chopped onion 4 cloves garlic, chopped fine 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh jalapeno peppers 2 lb lean ground beef 4 cups canned diced tomatoes, undrained 1 tbsp tomato paste 2 cups cooked red kidney beans 1 tbsp chili powder 2 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp dried oregano Salt & pepper to taste

Directions 1. In a large pot over medium heat, cook bacon for two to three minutes, stirring so the bacon doesn’t stick. 2. Add the onion, garlic and jalapeno and cook for a further one to two minutes, until softened. 3. Add the ground beef and cook until crumbly and no longer pink. 4. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, beans, chili power, cumin, oregano and continue simmering for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavour to develop. 5. Season with salt and pepper to taste; serve.

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White Hot Chocolate Serves 4 Ingredients 8 oz white chocolate, finely chopped ¾ cup heavy cream 3 cups milk 4 oz Bailey’s Irish Cream Liqueur (750 ml, $29.99)

Directions 1. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over medium heat. 2. While the chocolate is melting, heat the milk and cream in a heavy saucepan just until simmering; stir in the melted chocolate. 3. Add the Bailey’s Irish Cream Liqueur and serve.

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FOOD | Themed Celebration

White Hot Chocolate / Dark Hot Chocolate

Dark Hot Chocolate Serves 4 Ingredients 2 oz unsweetened dark chocolate 2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream 2 eggs ½ cup sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract 4 oz Kahlua Coffee Liqueur (750 ml, $28.99)

Directions 1. Melt chocolate in a double boiler over a medium burner. 2. While the chocolate is melting, heat the milk and cream in a heavy saucepan just until simmering; stir in the melted chocolate. 3. In a large bowl, beat eggs and sugar until pale yellow, stir in vanilla extract and the liqueur.

Say,

Jarlsberg’s deep flavour melds perfectly with the freshness of fall vegetables in this hearty harvest classic.

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Editor’s Tip for White Hot Chocolate and Dark Hot Chocolate: Simply omit the liqueur to make a kid-friendly version.

Fall vegetable ratatouille with Jarlsberg

A rich-tasting ratatouille with Jarslberg?

For recipes go to Jarlsberg.ca

4. Slowly pour the hot milk and cream mixture into the melted chocolate and stir well. 5. Whisking steadily, slowly pour the egg mixture into the chocolate cream. 6. Blend until heated through.

Visit jarlsberg.ca and see how Jarlsberg transforms familiar dishes like this one into new family favourites.

Occasions Winter 2012/2013


You wanted great pricing and lunch served in a timely manner. Now you've got it at the new SCRUNCHIONS RESTAURANT of the BAY ROBERTS HOTEL. You wanted a touch of elegance and romance for your dining experience. You told us so, now you've got it at SCRUNCHIONS. You wanted a menu makeover and desserts from scratch. Well, you've got that too at SCRUNCHIONS of the BAY ROBERTS HOTEL. The dining experience is complete at SCRUNCHIONS with great food reasonably priced, an unrivalled setting and venue, and LIVE piano music every Friday and Saturday nights through to Christmas. Come join us for lunch or dinner and live music every Friday and Saturday evenings at SCRUNCHIONS! Please book your Christmas party early and reserve your place at our New Year's Eve celebration! Spaces won't last long. We are open to serve you 6 days a week Tuesday to Sunday. Restaurant hours are seasonally adjusted, please call 709 786- 4700 for information. Reservations are highly recommended.

72 - 76 Water Street, Bay Roberts Conception Bay NL Canada

Phone: 709 786 4700 Toll Free: 800 786 4703 www.bayrobertshotel.ca


HEINEKEN 5L KEG Perfect for any party

Heineken’s distinctive flavor offers a refreshing European taste that has made it a favorite all over the world

5L keg only

$

99

34

(while supplies last)


RICKARD’S TASTER’S PACK Rickard’s invites you to explore how our flavourful beers complement your favourite foods. Visit rickards.ca to discover new pairing suggestions.

WHITE

RED

BLONDE

DARK

The hints of citrus and coriander in this unfiltered Belgian-style wheat ale pair well with seafood dishes and salads.

The fusion of three roasted malts and brewer’s caramel makes this Irish-style ale an ideal pairing with grilled meats and comfort food.

The unique blend of four hops in this German-style pilsner complements white meat and dishes with a spicy kick.

The hint of maple syrup in this English-style porter is perfect with braised dishes, cheese and a wide range of desserts.

Must be legal drinking age.


LIQUID LEXICON | Ebony Beauties

by Adam Morin

Dark Ales, Stouts and Porters


LIQUID LEXICON | Ebony Beauties

By Adam Morin Beer comes in every shade between topaz yellow and midnight black, but the ones darker than amber are renowned for their full flavour and complexity. Dark beer uses a small portion of heavily roasted malt barley, imparting flavours of caramel, chocolate, coffee, and smoke (among others). The resulting brew mixes bitter, sweet, and savoury notes. While they may not be to everyone’s liking, for those looking for a complex beer experience there is no better place to start than dark ales. Generally speaking, dark beers (like red wine) should be served at cellar temperature, which allows their complexity to shine through while keeping alcohol flavour and aromas in check. Also like red wine, full-bodied beers need equally rich meals to pair with; steak, lamb, or game meat works wonderfully with darker brews. However, all dark beer isn’t created equal and there are dozens of different kinds available to suit all tastes and needs. Below is a summary of the main types of dark beer found at most NLC Liquor Stores.

Stouts Stouts tend to have a more pronounced hop profile and consequently are drier than Porters. Stouts can also be relatively high in alcohol, intensely bitter and very filling; “cold barley soup”, as the saying goes. The first Stouts were brewed in the late 18th century for the Russian Imperial Court. In an outpost of European decadence, marooned in subarctic climes, a rich, warming beer was

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LIQUID LEXICON | Ebony Beauties

Brown Ale This style represents a uniquely English tradition: in fact, the Brown Ale was a precursor to Stouts and Porters. Brown Ales are made using a combination of pale and roasted malts, imparting a toasty, nutty flavour. Lighter in colour and body than most Stouts and Porters, they make a great introduction to the world of dark beer. Brown ales are traditionally relatively low in hop bitterness, which further accentuates their sweet malt profile. Example: Rickard’s Dark (473 ml, $3.68)

Guinness Pub Draught sorely needed. This style eventually gained popularity in England and became known as "stout porters", indicating a familiar Porterstyle beer with a little extra oomph. There have been stylistic changes over the centuries; nowadays, Stouts range from the relatively tame, such as Guinness Pub Draught, to intensely potent Russian Imperial Stouts, which are often 8% alcohol or higher. It's important to remember, though, that colour has little or no bearing on the body of the beer. The magic lies in the malt-to-water ratio, as this determines the specific gravity and potential alcohol of the beer, which in Stouts is generally very high. Stout’s bittersweet, heavy nature makes it an ideal pairing with bitter chocolate, but its smoky tones also makes it a fine pairing to smoked salmon and even rich stews. Example: Guinness Pub Draught Can (4 x 440 ml cans, $12.78) 22

Occasions Winter 2012/13

Rickard’s Dark


LIQUID LEXICON | Ebony Beauties

Black and Tan The Black and Tan originated in English pubs as a mixture of draught Pale Ale and Stout or Porter. Subsequent modifications to the recipe allowed for a mix of Lager and Stout, known as a Half and Half. Another option for those easing into the dark beer world is the Crown Float, which combines Stout and Cider.

Black and Tan Serves 1 Ingredients: 8 oz Keith’s India Pale Ale (6 x 341 ml, $13.69) 8 oz Guinness Pub Draught Can (4 x 440 ml cans, $12.78) Directions: 1. Pour the Pale Ale into a pint glass. 2. Slowly add the Stout so it floats on top.

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SIMPLY INSPIRED | Gifting Ideas

ALL THAT SPARKLES by Pat Thompson, Diamond Design and Alteen’s Jewellers

Do you want to add a little sparkle under the Christmas tree? Pat Thompson of Diamond Design and Alteen’s Jewellers provides recommendations to match diamonds with some of the world’s best sparkling wines.

Only the Finest

Italian Style

Oh Canada! Only in Canada you say? That’s certainly the case when you choose a Canadian diamond. These clear, white stones come only from our Canadian north, are mined to the highest environmental standards and are now among the most sought in the world. With these pure beauties, there are actually five C’s – cut, colour, clarity, carat, and Canadian. What better way to celebrate the gift of Canadian diamonds than with a bottle of premium Canadian sparkling wine, such as Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catharine Brut?

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Mama Mia! It’s easy to add a little Italian style to your look with these sophisticated beauties handcrafted in enamel and 18k gold, silver or diamonds. In a wide range of fabulous styles and bold and beautiful colours, Soho bangles, rings, and earrings are guaranteed to turn heads and spark envy wherever the season takes you. In Atlantic Canada, Soho Enamel Jewellery is available exclusively at Diamond Design. What to drink? Prosecco, of course! Mionetto Il Prosecco is glamorous inside and out. Its stylish and unique packaging is matched only by its refined pear and apple flavours.

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

Most would agree a Rolex watch is the ultimate luxury gift, especially when it includes the sparkle of diamonds! Whether you’re looking to mark a very special occasion, celebrate a personal accomplishment or splurge on something that will never go out of style, the sparkle of a Rolex will dazzle even the most sophisticated this season. Be sure to toast the gift of luxury with a glass of the finest Champagne, such as the legendary Dom Perignon. All recommended jewellery items are available at Diamond Design and Alteen’s Jewellers. Featured wines available at the NLC: Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catharine Brut (Ontario, $33.99) Mionetto Il Prosecco IGT (Italy, $17.48) Dom Perignon Champagne (France, $243.91)


Ring in the holidays at wineorchestra.ca

enjoy [yellow tail] responsibly


BEVERAGES | Expert Advice

Q & A WITH Wolfgang Blass On a recent Friday afternoon I had the unique opportunity to sit down with Wolfgang Blass. For those who don’t know, Blass is the man behind the Wolf Blass line of wines from Australia. At 77 years of age, this renowned entrepreneur and wine industry icon is still spending more than three months a year traveling the world. Could the brand have a better international ambassador? I don’t think so. He is after all a four-time winner of the highly coveted Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy, which is Australia’s top winemaking prize. Here are some of his responses to my questions. Andrew Facey (AF): The different wine ranges under the Wolf Blass portfolio are colour coded, red label, black label, etc. What is the significance of these colour coded labels and why did you go that route? Wolfgang Blass (WB): Well, Andrew, the ultimate goal at the time was to make wine labels easier to understand. With that in mind I looked to two things that were very important to me – women and sports! The colours they wear differentiate sports teams and racehorses. This is great for both memory and marketing. With marketing in mind, I realized that it was women who purchase the majority of the wine that is sold. Colours stand out, women like things that stand out, so we decided to make our wine labels more appealing to those who were doing the majority of the wine buying. As you know, this has been a huge success 26

for us. If imitation is indeed the best form of flattery, then we have been adulated many times throughout the years as our competitors, like the Bordeaux wine industry and spirits world, have followed our colour coding practices! AF: The Australian wine industry seems to be at the forefront of the Stelvin screw cap movement. What are your thoughts on this type of enclosure? WB: I have always wondered why we make such a big fuss over enclosures. I have personally been working with screw caps for more than 50 years. I find it totally unacceptable that at times a cork enclosure might mean that upwards of eight per cent of the total produce might be negatively affected by said cork. I have always been in full favour of having 100 per cent of my white wines under screw cap. The issue we are dealing with in Asia right now is that we need to convey to our buyers that the use of a screw cap doesn’t indicate a cheap, or poorly made, wine. We’re attempting to get this point across to the Asians by highlighting the freshness and consistency of wines that are under screw cap. AF: When you aren’t drinking Australian wines do you have a favourite country, grape variety or style of wine you’re most fond of? WB: I really enjoy Rieslings! Especially those from Alsace. I’m at a loss when it comes to

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

Andrew Facey is NLC’s Sommelier and Senior Product Knowledge Consultant

the whole German wine industry. I expect much more from them. When it comes to red wines, I like those that are easy to drink. For this reason I prefer reds from Chile and the right bank of Bordeaux – especially St. Emilion. The bottom line is that every time you think you’ve tasted the world’s best wine another one comes along. AF: So, this being your first time here in Newfoundland and Labrador, has there been any specific challenges or surprises you’ve found in our market? WB: Well the first thing I would like to say is how amazing your Liquor Stores are here! I have been to every corner of the world and have yet to see one as nicely laid out and organized as your Howley Estates! The selection of Australian wines on your shelves is quite impressive. There are vintages and producers for sale at NLC Liquor Stores that would be a challenge to find in Australia. We are very happy with our dealings in Canada, our second biggest market after our own, especially with the way the Wolf Blass wines are marketed and sold in your province.



Producers’ Choice J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon California, $19.56

When you need to bring a bottle to impress look no further than this Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s loaded with inviting hazelnut, vanilla, blueberry and plum aromas, and boasts a rich fruity palate. The finish is dry but not bitter. Impressive!

Moselland Ars Vitis Riesling Germany, $15.57

Buy it for the scenery; enjoy it for the wine. This refreshingly fruity, off-dry wine is a perfect pairing for holiday hors d’oeuvres, scallops and is great with turkey, too.

Krombacher Pils 500 ml, $3.58

This is a genuine European beer that offers a distinctive malt character and lively hop expression in keeping with the tradition of the finest pilsners. Enjoy a taste of tradition with Krombacher.


TASTING MENU Easy Braises by Andrew Facey with Mark DeWolf

Quick & Easy Sausage Cassoulet

Quick & Easy Sausage Cassoulet

As those cold North Atlantic winds hit shore, there’s nothing more comforting than the thought of nestling in with a hearty winter stew and a glass of something warming. This edition’s Tasting Menu draws on a wide range of cultural influences, including North Africa and France. NLC’s Sommelier and Senior Product Knowledge Consultant, Andrew Facey, finds soul mates for these robust dishes with Old World wines, while Occasions’ Food and Drinks Editor Mark DeWolf discovers there are New World wines capable of standing up to the rich flavours these dishes present.

Serves 6-8 Andrew’s Pick: Moulin Lagrezette (France, $21.36) This southwestern French dish, consisting of meat, beans, vegetables, and herbs was originally viewed as a stew for peasants. As a rich, flavourful dish, it requires a wine with a similar flavour profile. I have chosen one of the “inky black wines” of Cahors. Based primarily on the Malbec variety, this wine also has about 12 per cent Merlot, and a smidgeon of Tannat. Featuring plum and blackberry with a touch of spice, this wine by Chateau Lagrezette

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will stand up perfectly to the cassoulet. This is a classic match if there ever was one! Mark’s Pick: Alto Rouge (South Africa, $22.70) Here’s a New World wine with some Old World sensibilities. This blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and a hint of Cabernet Sauvignon, offers a melange of tobacco, leather, and red fruit, as well as spice aromas and flavours. It has enough of a leather, earthy edge to be a suitable partner to this rustic French dish.

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TASTING MENU | Pairings

Tagine Chicken Ingredients 1 ½ lb Andouille sausage 1 onion, chopped 3 strips smoked bacon, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 19-oz can white kidney beans, drained, rinsed 1 19-oz can crushed tomatoes 2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary Salt&pepper to taste

Directions 1. Place a deep, heavy bottom pot over medium-low heat. 2. Cook sausages until browned on all sides. Remove sausages from the pan and allow to cool and then slice into ¼” thick medallions. 3. Add the onion and chopped bacon to the pot and sauté until the bacon is crispy. 4. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. 30

5. Add the beans, tomatoes and rosemary; season with salt and pepper. 6. Bring the liquid to a boil then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 25-30 minutes. 7. Serve with crusty French bread.

Tagine Chicken Serves 6-8 Andrew’s Pick: Gitton Père & Fils Sancerre Blanc (France, $24.87) Traditionally cooked in an earthenware tagine pot, this slow-cooked stew from South Africa is quite popular in Morocco where it’s commonly consumed right out of the pot! A dish like this requires an acidic, bright wine – no oak! No sugar! A Sancerre Blanc is always 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc,

which is perfect for this dish as the wine’s mouth-watering acidity and citric notes will cut through the ginger and garlic, while holding up to the tartness of the orange juice and black olives. Mark’s Pick: Finca La Linda Viognier (Argentina, $13.36) The bold flavours acquired from the exotic spicing, especially the saffron, leads me to a wine with a similarly intense character. While I often fall back on dry rosé for saffron based dishes, I find the greatest flavour synergy is usually with a good Viognier. Try it with Finca La Linda Viognier from Argentina. It’s vibrant perfume, and textured body will marry well with the dish.

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

Ingredients 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp butter 3 lb chicken pieces (legs and thighs) 6 pearl onions, peeled Pinch saffron 1 tsp minced fresh ginger 1 tsp minced fresh garlic 1 tsp ground cumin 1 Litre chicken stock 2 cinnamon sticks 1 cup raisins ½ cup black olives ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Juice of 1 orange

Directions 1. Place an Emile Henry tagine over medium-high heat; add the butter and olive oil. 2. Add the chicken pieces and pearl onions; brown on all sides.


TASTING MENU | Pairings

Braised Sheep Island Lamb Shanks 3. Add the saffron, ginger, garlic, and cumin and sauté until fragrant. 4. Add the chicken stock and cinnamon sticks; reduce heat to medium and cover. 5. Braise the chicken for about 45 minutes. 6. Add the raisins, olives, chopped cilantro and fresh orange juice; simmer for another five minutes. 7. Remove the cinnamon sticks and discard. Serve with couscous.

Braised Sheep Island Lamb Shanks Serves 6 Andrew’s Pick: Lan Rioja Crianza (Spain, 750 ml, $18.98) Lamb shank is my favourite winter dish. So many options,

but what wine to choose? Those in the know might be shocked that I didn’t choose something from either the left or right bank of Bordeaux. Instead, I have gone with another classic lamb pairing, Tempranillo from Rioja in northern Spain. The Lan Rioja Crianza is one of my go-to wines. The 2006 edition received 90 points from the Wine Spectator and also made it into the magazine’s “Top 100 Most Interesting Wines” of 2010 (#44). This smooth wine displays aromas and flavours of plums, cherries, and spice and has a savoury finish that just screams “serve me with lamb.”

Mark’s Pick: Arboleda Syrah (Chile, $20.99) This is definitely a dish where the Old World has an advantage. I tend to think the earthy, savoury richness of Southern French reds, or the brooding nature of Italy’s big reds such as Aglianico or Nebbiolo as a pairing to this dish. Chile is redefining its image as a source of simple fruity reds. Some its richest, darkest and most complex come from the Syrah grape, which is now just coming into its own in South America. Try this dish with Arboleda Syrah which is a rich, spicy and complex red wine.

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Ingredients 6 lamb shanks (local preferred) All-purpose flour Salt & pepper 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp butter 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped 1 ⁄3 cup finely chopped fresh rosemary ½ litre red wine ½ litre beef stock

Directions 1. Dust the shanks with flour and season with salt and pepper. 2. Place a large pot over medium heat; add the olive oil and butter. 3. When the butter is melted, add the shanks and brown on all sides. 31


TASTING MENU | Pairings 4. Remove the shanks and set aside. Add the chopped onion and carrot; reduce heat to medium-low and sauté until the vegetables are soft. 5. Return the shanks to the pot and add the rosemary, red wine and beef stock. 6. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to medium-low; braise the shanks for two hours. 7. When ready to serve, gently remove shanks from the braising liquid. 8. Strain the braising liquid to remove solids. Return liquid to a pot and bring to a boil; reduce until the liquid achieves a sauce like consistency.

Truffle & Honey Braised Winter Vegetables

Truffle & Honey Braised Winter Vegetables

Serves 6 Andrew’s Pick: Joseph Drouhin Pouilly Fuissé (France, $36.48) Rounding out my all Old World (European) wine selections is this 100 per cent Chardonnay from Burgundy. [Please note: if you ever see Pouilly Fuisse on a label it is always 100 percent Chardonnay]. The Drouhin Pouilly Fuisse is fresh and harmonious with a great purity of flavour. This wine has the necessary weight required to stand up to these root vegetables, and, when served just slightly chilled, it pairs perfectly with the sweetness of the dish.

Set your imagination on Fire Luxardo Sambuca Sauté, Flambé, Gourmet Sambuca Flambéed Shrimp Sauté shrimp over high heat. When the shrimp are cooked, reduce the heat to medium-low and add Sambuca; light quickly with barbecue lighter. When the fire is out, add some cream, tomato paste to finish. Serve warm.

Sauteed Lamb with Sambuca Cook lamb chops to desired temperature. While the lamb rests sauté onion in olive oil, then add fresh tomatoes and chopped rosemary. Finish with a splash of Sambuca. Cafe Luxardo Combine one ounce of Luxardo Sambuca with half an ounce of cream liqueur in a heat proof mug. Top with fresh coffee and whipped cream.

Also available in Newfoundland Luxardo Raspberry Sambuca, Luxardo Passion Nera, Luxardo Grappa, Luxardo Kirsch and Luxardo Limoncello.


TASTING MENU | Pairings Mark’s Pick: Arboleda Chardonnay (Chile, $17.97) Here’s a case where a full-bodied, oak-rich Chardonnay makes a great match. The truffle and honey glaze on these vegetables begs to be matched by a white wine full of nutty, toasty and buttery aromas and flavours. Arboleda Chardonnay is just such a wine. Ingredients 2 tbsp olive oil 4 tbsp butter 1 lb carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise 1 lb parsnip, peeled, cut into long strips 1 small celery root, peeled cut into rough chunks

1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme 1 cup white wine 3 tbsp honey 1 tbsp truffle oil Salt & pepper

Directions 1. Place a large pot over medium heat; add the olive oil and two tablespoons of the butter. 2. When the butter has melted add the root vegetables; sauté for 15-20 minutes stirring constantly. 3. Add the white wine and thyme; deglaze the pan. Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the pan.

4. When the liquid has mostly evaporated and the vegetables are cooked through, place the vegetables in a serving dish and drizzle them with the honey, remaining butter and truffle oil. Toss to coat evenly. 5. Season with salt and pepper and serve as a vegetarian meal or side dish.

“Water makes the beer.”

Made with pure 25,000 year old iceberg water.

ST. JOHN’S, NL, CANADA

www.icebergbeer.com

Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too.

We can’t help but agree.

/BELVEDERECANADA


BEVERAGES | Mixology

Inspired By the 60s

Before the men and women at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce advertising agency made the 60s cool again in the highly popular Mad Men series, there was of course the Rat Pack, whose legend has never died. Invite friends over to watch old movies and serve classic-cinema cocktails with retro-inspired hors d’oeuvres, such as Deviled Eggs, Pigs in a Blanket, and Swedish Meatballs. Make them yourself, or do as Betty Draper would do and have them made for you. Remember: arrange taxis or designate a driver to see guests get safely home. As avid golfer Dean Martin once said, “If you drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.”

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Old Fashioned When he’s not drinking Canadian Club straight up, Mad Men’s Don Draper uses it to make an Old Fashioned cocktail. Serves 1 Ingredients 1 sugar cube 2 dashes bitters Splash soda water 2 oz Canadian Club Whisky (750 ml, $25.78) Orange Slice

Directions 1. Soak a sugar cube with two dashes of bitters and place in an old fashioned glass. 2. Add a splash of soda water and muddle. 3. Fill with the Canadian Club and garnish with an orange slice. Editor’s Tip You can spice up this classic recipe by substituting Canadian Club Dock 57 Spiced Canadian Whisky for the Canadian Club. Occasions Winter 2012/2013



BEVERAGES | Mixology

Gibson Martini Roger Sterling, one of the two managing partners of Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce advertising agency gets his inspiration from a Gibson Martini. Serves 1 2 oz Russian Standard Vodka (750 ml, $26.78) ½ oz dry vermouth 3 cocktail onions

Directions 1. Place the vodka and vermouth in a mixing glass filled with ice. 2. Stir until cold then strain into a chilled martini glass. 3. Garnish with cocktail onions.

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Occasions Winter 2012/2013


BEVERAGES | Mixology

A Gentleman’s Drink Truth be told, Frank Sinatra enjoyed his whiskey. His preferred drink included four ice cubes, two fingers of whiskey and a splash of water. So why verge too far from his favourite drink? Serves 1 2 oz Jim Beam Bourbon (750 ml, $25.99) Splash of Evian water

Directions 1. Add four ice cubes to an old fashioned glass and top with Jim Beam and a splash of water. 2. If you want to drink it like Frank would, don’t hold the glass by the rim. Cup the glass with a cocktail napkin. www.occasionsmagazine.ca/nlc

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SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants

Rise Up & Celebrate By Karen Armstrong

Basho Locals have come to count on St. John’s Basho Restaurant & Lounge to deliver a great winter dining experience.

Basho From that very first day of winter, the sun begins her slow climb back up into the skies of Newfoundland and Labrador. While the days grow shorter winter can be a time to raise our glasses in celebration of the beautiful province we live in.

Whether you have been out snowboarding at Marble Mountain, hiking Signal Hill, snowmobiling the trails or tobogganing with the kids; why not toast the beauty of our province in one of the many cozy bars and restaurants that dot our province?

For thousands of years, in Japan, one of the greatest celebrations has been to acknowledge that the days of winter grow steadily longer and to welcome the sun's warm glow with your upturned face. So when you're looking to rise up and celebrate in St. John's, point your face up the steps of Scanlon's Lane from Water Street onto Duckworth and you'll find Basho Restaurant. Rise up just a few more steps and the Basho Lounge offers a cozy start to the evening with a fusion of a grand view, magical martinis and stunning appetizers of tempura and sushi. The service staff is ready to help you select the right martini to match your mood. When it's time to sit down and think of entrées; consider a traditional serving of saké or perhaps a crisp cool lager. Basho's range of

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menu items is designed around a fusion of Japanese, Asian and other international tastes, so you can't go wrong here. After a enjoyable meal green tea can refresh your palate as you continue your culinary journey with a vibrant taste from Basho's dessert list. Alternatively, you might choose to retreat to the lounge once more and ask them to recommend a spirit from the bar to complement your green tea and celebratory mood. Basho 283 Duckworth Street, St. John's 709-576-4600

Madison's While you ski the snowy slopes of Marble Mountain your muscles burn and lungs become alive with the fresh winter air. The west coast of Newfoundland certainly supports a rush of adrenaline. While below the mountain, Madison's at Marble Inn welcomes everyone into their cozy grill. 39


SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants Here you'll find faces from far and wide; from Europe and the U.S, from every province of Canada and from every cove of Newfoundland and Labrador; all together celebrating winter.

made with Iceberg Vodka. After dinner why not partake in one of Madison's delicious dessert selections? They are best enjoyed with a warming special coffee. Now that's a decadent way to celebrate winter!

Straight from the slopes, the iso-tonic attributes of a fine beer help reinvigorate the body and soul. Celebrate a day spent enjoying the splendour of Newfoundland and Labrador with a local beer such as Dominion, Blue Star or India Pale Ale accompanied by Madison's famous "Parm Fries".

Madison’s at Marble Inn Steady Brook 1-877-497-5673 www.marbleinn.com

Then sit down to a great menu that celebrates both the land and the sea. You might consider opening with a cocktail

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Aqua Cozy doesn’t have to mean uncreative. After a day spent enjoying the crisp winter air with a loved one consider Aqua in St. John’s for a delicious night out. Water Street is as close to Europe as you'll get in North America and the classic uptown

metropolitan feel of Aqua is just right for a romantic evening together. Aqua's new oyster bar has a sophisticated urban appeal that is sure to enliven the senses. Their condiments are crafted with a concern for sustainability and local ingredients. Nothing complements oysters any better than Guinness except perhaps a luscious local beer like Storm Red. With the white table clothes beckoning, you can relax and luxuriate partaking of Aqua's excellent menu choices paired with fine wines such as a silky smooth New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Or try a bottle of a well-rounded Chardonnay with Aqua's famous Lobster Poutine.

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SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants With the urgency satisfied, it's time to linger. Aqua has you covered with sweet desserts and even a unique selection of locally-crafted cheeses which are mellowed with a glass of fine Port or a snifter of a smooth and satisfying liqueur. It’s time to rise up and celebrate winter at Aqua or one of the other many cozy restaurants in our province. Aqua 310 Water Street, St. John’s 709-576-2782 www.aquarestaurant.ca

Aqua


LOCAL FLAVOUR | Beer

LOCAL FLAVOUR Recipes contributed by Michele LeBlanc & Shaun Hussey, Chinched Bistro

Quidi Vidi Iceberg Frito Misto

Spotlight on Local: Cooking with Beer With the ascent of local microbreweries and a renewed interest in artisanal beers, beer cuisine is gaining in popularity. This winter we recommend serving locally inspired foods with a beer brewed in Newfoundland & Labrador.

Chinched Bistro, located at 7 Queen Street in downtown St. John’s, specializes in contemporary bistro cuisine. The food is proudly made from scratch and served in a stylish and relaxed dining atmosphere in both the bar and dining room. The restaurant is also known for its commitment to local ingredients.

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Quidi Vidi Iceberg Frito Misto Serves 4 Ingredients 2 cups flour, plus more for dusting Pinch kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 oz Quidi Vidi Iceberg Beer (12 pack, $32.98) 1 egg yolk Vegetable oil for frying 6 Sage or basil leaves ½ lb scallops ½ lb calamari, cut into rings ½ pound fresh cod, cut into bite size pieces Lemon wedges, for garnish

Directions 1. Put the flour in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. 2. Stir in the beer, half at a time, whisking to work out any lumps. 3. Add the egg yolk and mix well to combine. The batter should

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

have the consistency of cream. 4. In a deep fat fryer, heat two inches of oil to 375 degrees F˚ . 5. Rinse and dry all the ingredients to be fried. Fry the ingredients in the order listed. 6. Coat the ingredients with flour, shaking off the excess and then dip in the batter and immediately place into hot oil. Do not overcrowd the fryer. 7. Cook until golden. Note: the herbs will cook quickly while the seafood will take a bit longer. 8. Skim any loose pieces of batter from the oil. Drain the herbs and fish on paper towels. 9. Arrange on a large platter, season with salt and pepper and squeeze some lemon wedges over the dish. Serve immediately.


LOCAL FLAVOUR | Beer India Beer Braised Rabbits Serves 6 Ingredients ½ cup flour ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 3 lb rabbit meat, cleaned and cut into pieces 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups thinly sliced onions 1½ pounds mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 tbsp chopped garlic 1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme 1 tbsp chopped fresh basil 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary 2 bay leaves 2 cups India Beer (12 pack, $23.79) 1 quart chicken stock, or water 3 tbsp flour 2 tbsp softened butter 1 tbsp minced fresh parsley

Directions 1. Place a half-cup of flour, salt and pepper into a plastic bag; toss to mix. Add the rabbit pieces and toss to coat with the flour mixture. Shake off excess. 2. Heat two tbsp of the olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Sear the rabbit pieces on each side until golden brown and then set aside. 3. Pour in the remaining olive oil and stir in the sliced onions. Cook until the onions have softened, about two minutes, then stir in the mushrooms and garlic and cook for an additional two minutes. Add the thyme, basil, rosemary and bay leaves; season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Place the browned rabbit pieces in the Dutch oven and pour in the beer and chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the rabbit is very tender (approximately 60 minutes). 5. Stir three tablespoons of flour into the softened butter until smooth. Remove the rabbit from the simmering broth and set aside. Skim any visible fat from the liquid, then whisk in the butter paste. Simmer for three or four minutes until thickened, then remove the bay leaves, season again with salt and pepper if needed, and stir in the parsley. Serve the thickened sauce with the braised rabbit. 6. Serve with fresh spring greens sautéed with garlic and butter, or baby carrots.

applet eton o es estate s e.c .com om

The Exceptional Spirit


LOCAL FLAVOUR | Beer Profiteroles with Yellowbelly Wexford Wheat Ale Ice Cream* Serves 6-8 Ingredients (ice cream 3 cups Yellowbelly Wexford Wheat Ale reduced to ½ cup** (750 ml, $6.86) 80g egg yolks (approximately 5 yolks) ½ cup honey 1 bay leaf 1¼ tsp salt 1 cup milk 1 cup cream

Directions (ice cream) 1. Pour the beer into a heavy bottom saucepan and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Once it begins to boil, reduce to a simmer and simmer until it reduces to a half cup. 2. In a heatproof bowl combine the yolks and honey, and whisk until thick and pale yellow. 3. Combine the bay leaf, salt, milk, cream and reduced beer

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in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. 4. Slowly temper the cream mixture into the egg yolk mixture until both are completely combined. 5. Return the mixture to the saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture becomes thick and coats the back of the spoon. 6. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer and cool for four hours or overnight. Be sure the mixture is completely chilled before freezing in an ice cream machine. Ingredients (profiteroles) 5 eggs ½ cup milk ½ cup water Pinch salt 1 tsp sugar ¼ lb butter 1 cup flour

Directions (profiteroles) 1. Place the butter, milk and water in a medium saucepan. Turn on medium-high heat until the liquid comes to a boil. 2. Add the flour, salt and sugar to the liquid mixture and stir over low heat for approximately five minutes. 3. Place the batter into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. With the mixer running on medium speed, add the eggs one at a time. Scrap down the sides of the bowl after the addition of each egg. 4. Place the dough in a pastry bag fitted with a piping tip and pipe onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If you don’t have a piping bag, you can spoon the batter with a teaspoon onto the baking sheet. 5. Bake at 400 ˚F for 15 minutes

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

and then reduce the temperature to 325 F˚ and bake for an additional 30 to 40 minutes until the pastry is golden brown. 6. Remove from the oven and let cool. 7. To serve, split in half and scoop ice cream onto the bottom piece, place the top of the profiterole onto the ice cream. Serve with a warm chocolate sauce. *The ice cream portion of the recipe yields five litres. **Be sure to keep a close eye on the beer as it reduces and you don’t want to over reduce or burn the beer, as it will taste very bitter.


GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Bordeaux

A Taste of

Bordeaux Taste of Bordeaux NLC is set to host a new wine tasting event, “Wines of Bordeaux”.This tasting of premium and super-premium wines from the Bordeaux region is a rare opportunity to sample some of the best Bordeaux wines as selected by the experts from NLC and their partners in Bordeaux. The event will be held on February 16 at the Delta St. John’s Hotel. Visit www.nlliquor.com for event details.

thousand years. We’ll try and break down the barriers to provide you some insight into the inner workings of Bordeaux and how that relates to the quality of wine in your glass.

Bordeaux Crash Course There’s a certain enigmatic quality to Bordeaux. How do you know which wine to buy? Is the vintage the most important test of quality, or is it the vineyard or the winery? The great chateaux of Bordeaux have purposefully built a great wall between themselves and the consumer over the last

Historical Context: When Henry Met Ellie The Romans originally brought grape vines to Bordeaux, but it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that Bordeaux established itself as the dominant player in the French wine industry. In 1152, Henry II married Eleanor of Aquitaine and England gained control over Bordeaux. From this period on Britain became the principal customer of the Bordeaux wine industry. Bordeaux’s fortune rose and fell over the next few hundred years based on the tenuous relationship between England and France, but regardless of the conflict English wine enthusiasts never lost their love for Claret (the English term for Bordeaux wines). This relationship between England and France has defined the Bordeaux wine industry ever since. 45

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Bordeaux

Eventually British, Irish, and later Germans and Dutch, settled in Bordeaux. They would become the merchant class, working the dockyards, ensuring Bordeaux would be transported to England and around the world. Those shippers took on the responsibility of buying barrels of Bordeaux, aging them and shipping them to market. They eventually became known as negociants and, in fact, it was

46

their name that became the standard of excellence. Hence some of Bordeaux’s greatest wines continue to bear English names such as Chateau Palmer. To this day the negociants play an important role in how wine is sold, although they no longer age the wine in barrels. Following World War II, the Chateaux took back the responsibility of aging their wines in barrels and bottling

Occasions Winter 2012/2013


GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Bordeaux their wines, but continue to rely on the negociants to sell their wine around the world. With such a long history perfecting the Bordeaux wine style, is there any wonder why their great wines are revered by wine enthusiasts and collectors around the world?

Basics of the Blend:The Encépagement All Bordeaux wines, whether they are dry or sweet white, rosé or red wines, are blends. The blend of a particular winery in Bordeaux is known as the encépagement, while the individual grapes are known as the cépages. Why? There are a few reasons. There is a little economics at play, geography and winemaking. Let’s discover the grapes and discuss the rationale of the blend.

Team Red:

but more dominant in the Right Bank (the large area on the right side of Gironde Estuary and Dourdogne River). It is by far the most widely planted varietal in Bordeaux. Even in the Medoc where Cabernet is king, Merlot plays a very important role not only for its role in the blend, but also because it’s more likely to ripen in a cool vintage. The result is the wines of the Right Bank are more unctuous and more fruit-forward in youth. Cabernet Franc: This variety is considerably lighter in body and structure (softer tannins) than its Cabernet cousin. It adds perfume and earthy seasoning to the blend. Because of its earlier ripening and preference for limestone soils, Cabernet Franc is preferred over Cabernet Sauvignon in much of St. Emilion and Pomerol.

The others: Malbec adds colour and rich, earthy flavour, while Petit Verdot can offer aromas such as pencil shavings along with colour and tannin. Finally, the little used Carmenere can add mocha notes when picked fully ripe.

Team White: Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux tends to be less pungent and zippy than regions where it shines as a varietal. In Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc tends towards a lighter, crisper style with some refreshing acidity, the perfect balancing partner for the other primary white grape – Semillon. Notably Sauvignon Blanc lends a fresh character to the great, white wines of the Graves (the area just south of the city of Bordeaux). The best of these wines now enjoy oak maturation. Its acidity and freshness also

Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon is full and tannic with characteristic cassis fruit, mint and develops cedar notes with age. It gives body and structure and intensity of colour to the blend and also contributes to the longevity of wines. Mostly found in the gravelly soils of the Medoc, although a little is found throughout Bordeaux. Cabernet Sauvignon is the last to ripen so it’s less favourable where the growing season is shorter. The end result is the wines of the Medoc are more angular, long living and more often closed (less aromatic) in youth compared to Right Bank wines. Merlot: Merlot adds plump, succulent fruit, a round texture, fullness of body and alcohol. It’s softer in acid and lower in tannin. It helps to round out and complement the tougher Cabernet Sauvignon in youth. Merlot loves cool soils such as clay, found throughout Bordeaux, www.occasionsmagazine.ca/nlc

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Bordeaux plays an important role in Bordeaux’s other great wines, the famous dessert wines of Sauternes, Barsac and Monbazillac. Semillon produces a rich, viscous and somewhat ‘waxy’ textured wine of relatively high alcohol and low acidity. Its intensity of flavour benefits greatly from being blended with Sauvignon Blanc’s natural acidity. Semillon’s fruit intensity, thin skin and susceptibility to Botrytis make it of particular importance in the sweet wine areas such as Barsac and Sauternes. Muscadelle adds aromatic spiciness and grapey richness. Used in moderation, it adds another dimension to Bordeaux whites, both dry and sweet.

Appellation versus Classification: Like all French wine regions, the wines of Bordeaux are organized by their place of origin (appellation) known now as AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée). Wines from the largest regions, and subject to the least stringent production methods, are labelled with a regional designation such as Bordeaux or slightly more defined areas such as the Medoc or Haut-Medoc. Finer wines are often labelled from a smaller commune with a more defined geography and are made according to stricter regulations. Some of the most famous include the Medoc’s Pauillac and Margaux AOP, or Saint-Emilion and Pomerol across the Gironde on the Right Bank. There is an argument to be made that in terms of quality wines in Bordeaux the various classification systems play a greater role than appellation. The most famous classifi-

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The Right Bank Saint-Emilion has its own system. The most basic wines are labelled with only the appellation, while wines of greater distinction are known as Grand Cru or Grand Cru Classé. The best estates are labelled as Premier Grand Cru Classé (A or B). There are now four estates that command the title of the Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

cation system is Bordeaux’s 1855 Classification system, which was originally created to rank the great wines of the region (at that time seen as the Medoc). The best estates were ranked 1st (or Premier) to 5th Growth. The ranking (once revised to move Chateau Mouton-Rothschild to the top tier) has largely determined the value of the wines ever since and afforded those on the list every economic advantage to continue to make great wines. When buying a bottle of Bordeaux from the Medoc look for the words “Grand Cru Classé” on the label. The top estates will be labelled as Premier Grand Cru Classé. The sweet wines of Bordeaux were also ranked at the time, with Chateau d’Yquem receiving the highest honour. It was afforded the title of Premier Grand Cru Classé Supérieur. The Graves, which was largely snubbed by the 1855 classification, created its own classification system, listed shortly thereafter. Later still, the government created the Cru Bourgeois, to recognize the best of the estates that did not get ranked in the 1855 Classification. Wines labelled as Cru Bourgeois often represent great value, especially in good vintages.

Occasions Winter 2012/2013

The Greatest Red Wines of Bordeaux’s Medoc as Defined by the 1855 Classification FIRST GROWTHS (PREMIERS CRUS) • Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) • Château Margaux (Margaux) • Château Latour (Pauillac) • Château Haut-Brion Pessac Leognan (Graves) • Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) (elevated in 1973)

The Greatest Red Wines of Saint-Emilion’s Classification system FIRST GROWTHS (PREMIERS CRUS) • Château Ausone • Château Cheval Blanc • Château Angelus (elevated in September, 2012) • Château Pavie (elevated in September, 2012) Editor’s Note: Did you know a winery’s standing on the 1855 list is not restricted to its home vineyard? In fact, in the last 150 years many of the top estates have purchased wineries and vineyards that were not classified.


GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Bordeaux

Vintage Matters: In a marginal climate, such as Bordeaux, vintage matters. Check out the vintage chart below (Vintage and scores as determined by Wine Spectator magazine)

Red Wine

Medoc, PessacLeognan

Red Wine

St-Emilion, Pomerol

Sweet Wine

Sauternes

Vintage 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000

Score 88-91 96-99 97 87 85 90 98 89 95 86 90 99

Vintage 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000

Score 88-91 96-99 96 88 86 89 98 88 94 87 89 97

Vintage 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 97 87

Score 94-97 95-98 95-100 90 92 91 93 89 95 87 97 87

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FOOD | Last Bite

Frozen Chocolate and Blue Cheese Loaf

1. 2.

3. 4.

5.

6. 7.

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Occasions Winter 2012/2013


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