Volume 13
what's inside 03
Editor's Note
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Red Oolong Tea: Gem of Taiwan's Southeast Coast Andy Kincart
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Oriental Beauty: Myth and Mystery David Campbell
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Selecting Dan Cong Oolongs Nicole Martin
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Puerh Reads Nicole Martin
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From the Blog
editor's note
2018 seems to be flying by me. Is it March already? There's a special kind of anticipation that this time of year holds for tea lovers. Before we know it, spring will be here and there will be new harvests to try from around the world. I was recently asked to contribute to World of Tea's 2018 Tea Outlook. My prediction was that 2018 will be the year of the educated tea consumer. Today’s tea enthusiasts know their stuff and are demanding more transparency than ever before. The industry is rapidly changing and evolving and it is an exciting time to be involved in the tea world, albeit in my own little way. As always, this journal is reader driven. I'd love to hear your questions and feedback. Submissions for future issues are welcome from everyone. Whether you are a tea enthusiast or seasoned vendor, we all have something to share that others can learn from. Even if you don't consider yourself a writer, drop me a line if there is a topic that you'd like to see covered in a future issue.
Nicole Martin
Red Oolong Tea: Gem of Taiwan's Southeast Coast
by Andy Kincart of Eco-ChaÂ
The roadside snapshot above shows the sculpture of the Chinese character "cha" (tea) at the Taidong Branch of the Tea Research and Extension Station (TRES). It marks the establishment of the Department of Agriculture's program to develop this rural area on Taiwan's southeast coast as a tea producing region that began decades ago. We stopped to appreciate the old school postindustrial aesthetic of it when Eco-Cha recently visited this area. Behind the landmark we can see tea trees growing naturally (not pruned for cultivation), bordering the tea garden behind them.
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We were happily surprised to see organically grown tea flourishing at lower elevations in the foothills of Taiwan's southeast coast, which has a hotter and dryer climate than the more renowned tea regions on the central-western mountain range and in northern Taiwan.
The TRES originally advised tea farmers in this region to process their tea leaves as a tightly rolled variation of Baozhong Oolong, which is a lightly oxidized, unroasted tea that is traditionally produced in northern Taiwan. This processing method proved to be far less than ideal however, as they could only produce quality tea from early spring and late winter harvests, due to the hotter, dryer climate. This sacrificed about 60% of the potential annual yield. So about 10 years ago, the TRES in cooperation with the Luye Farmers' Association redesigned production methods. This innovation involves oxidizing the leaves to at least 80%, using a combination of both Oolong and Black Tea processing techniques. So they decided to name this tea type simply "Hong Oolong" or Red Oolong, as Black Tea in Chinese is called Red Tea.
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With the introduction of Red Oolong processing methods, Mr. Lin has transitioned to being certified organic, including his own tea factory that has a 5 star (highest) rating for sanitation. He says that the hotter, drier climate here is conducive to producing this tea type, since higher temperatures during the growing season produce higher levels of catechins in the tea leaves, which result in more bitter/astringent flavors when only lightly oxidized. However, when leaves with high concentrations of catechins are heavily oxidized, they produce a superior quality. Heavily or fully oxidized (Black) Teas are also much more accommodating of natural pests that are an inevitable aspect of organic farming. The extensive processing of the leaves eliminates the difficulties of producing more delicate, greener teas from leaves that have naturally occurring imperfections. This, in short, is the logic behind the invention of Red Oolong Tea.
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Red Oolong truly is at the border between being an Oolong and a Black Tea. From the appearance of the brewed leaves and the brewed tea, it looks like a Black Tea. However, given that the leaves have undergone stages of Oolong Tea processing, including a light roasting at the finish, there is an element of Oolong in its character. Add to this the fact that the cultivars used to produce this tea are all within the broad category of "small leaf" as it is termed in Taiwan, basically Oolong Tea strains — to be distinguished from Assam, Red Jade (Tai Cha #18), and the indigenous Mountain Tea (Shan Cha) strains used for Black Tea production. Red Oolong offers a smooth, balanced, mildly sweet, rich but not quite bold flavor profile, with elements of fruit compote, pumpkin pie, and a hint of dried flowers. This ultra-friendly character, combined with the fact that almost all Red Oolong is cultivated naturally on the southeast coast of Taiwan, facing the wide open Pacific, which reminds a North American of Washington State or British Columbia, is no wonder why it is rapidly gaining popularity on the international market. Once again, Taiwan leads the way in Oolong Tea innovation! Eco-Cha was born out of a passion for tea in which life-long friendships, careers, and cross-cultural exchanges have grown and flourished. We now aim to share this deeply rooted connection to Taiwan Tea by offering you a direct window into this complex and colorful world. You can find out more at http://www.eco-cha.com
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Oriental Beauty: Myth and Mystery by David Campbell of Tillerman Tea Oriental Beauty, or OB as insiders tend to call it, goes by many names : Bai Hao (my preferred,) Dong Fang Mei Ren (Mandarin for Oriental Beauty), Peng Feng Cha (Braggart’s Tea), Wu Si Cha (Five Color Tea) and sometimes, but rarely, as Pekoe Cha. In the years since first learning of it, I have remained intrigued both as to the origins of these names and when, where and how the tea itself originated. Considerable research has left me to conclude that it is, to quote Churchill, “a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.” Oriental Beauty is an oolong tea; but a special kind of oolong. It is what is often called a “bug-bitten” tea. And it is one of the few high quality teas that come from the summer harvest (second flush Darjeeling – also reputedly bug-bitten – is another.) The best Bai Hao is produced using leaves from the Qing Xin Da Pan cultivar that is grown at relatively low altitudes. And although there are bug-bitten oolongs made in other countries that have been given the name Oriental Beauty, all authentic Bai Hao oolong hails from Taiwan. In Taiwan, the “bug” in question is known as Jacobiasca formosana or, more prosaically, the green leafhopper. This leafhopper attacks the tender stems of unopened buds on the tea plant which causes the plant to mount a defense by producing a bevy of chemicals that either kill the leafhopper directly or attract leafhopper predators to the area (we don’t know which for certain.) It is these chemicals that yield the wonderful honey and muscatel aromas so characteristic of Oriental Beauty. The bug attacks also cause the buds above the bitten stem to desiccate and thus retain their “furry” white tips. And that, pretty clearly, is the origin of the descriptive name Bai Hao. (A buying hint: some unscrupulous growers and dealers cull a quantity of buds from the summer harvest and add them to later harvests in order to claim the tea is Bai Hao and thus charge higher prices. To ensure the real thing, always check to see that the buds are attached to the leaf set.)
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After harvesting and outdoor withering, the leaves are bruised by tumbling or shaking and allowed to oxidize to about 60%. The tea is then fixed and the leaves are covered and allowed to soften before they are twist rolled, dried and often, given a light roast. But when was this tea first made and what about the names? There are several hoary legends that purport to be the true story of Oriental Beauty but we’ll begin by taking a couple of steps back before trying to move forward. The first great leap in tea production in Taiwan (then called Formosa) occurred in mid-1860 and was spearheaded by a Scot named James Dodd. He developed a strong market for Formosa oolong in the United States, which for decades remained the major importer of Formosa tea (see: James Davidson, The Island of Formosa, Past and Present 1903.) As Davidson describes Formosa Oolong (and Baozhong) he makes no mention of anything resembling what we call Oriental Beauty. A second major development in Taiwanese tea happened during the Japanese colonial period (1895 – 1945.) The Japanese established the research centers that have since become TRES (Tea Research and Extension Station) and were keen to show to the world their modernization of the island. They introduced black tea manufacture to Formosa and encouraged its production and export. Nonetheless, according to William Ukers (All About Tea, 1935,) oolong was the most extensively “variety” cultivated in Formosa, representing some 40% of the total. Ukers goes on to describe, in great detail, the methods of oolong manufacture but, like Davidson, describes nothing that we would recognize as Oriental Beauty. Bruce Tan, in 膨⾵茶的地理學 (The Geography of Peng Feng Tea, 2009) claims that the tea was in fact created by a Beipu tea manufacturer named Zhang Juei-Cheng in 1932. According to Lawrence Zhang’s research, (“The Original Oriental Beauty” in the blog “A Tea Addict’s Journal” http://www.marshaln.com/2014/04/the-original-oriental-beauty/ )
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Peng Feng tea is first mentioned in Formosa tea documents (written in Japanese) in 1933. He suggests that some unnamed tea farmer might be responsible for the tea which had commanded a very steep price following a local competition (hence, perhaps, the name Braggart’s tea.) In either event, the tea was exhibited at the 1935 Taipei International Exposition held by the Japanese colonial government to showcase Taiwan’s successes under Japanese rule. But how did the tea come to be known as Oriental Beauty? Too frequently one reads about a Queen of England (sometimes Victoria, sometimes Elizabeth II, even though these two reigned in different centuries – and the tea didn’t even exist during Victoria’s time.) referring to the tea as a true "oriental beauty." The name is said to have stuck and then been translated back into Mandarin as "Dong Fang Mei Ren." Myths and legends! Peng Feng tea continued to be produced, almost certainly in small quantities, well into the Marshall Law period (1949 – 1987) and it continued to be called Peng Feng tea. However, with the reemergence of China and the subsequent collapse of the export trade for Taiwan’s teas, traditional tea seemed imperiled. The 1970’s and 1980’s saw a tremendous shift in Taiwan’s tea production and market approach. During this period tea producers turned to developing and satisfying the domestic market and high mountain teas were planted in increasing numbers. A “traditional” tea like Peng Feng risked being lost and, according to Scott Writer (private correspondence,) it was probably revived at the suggestion of the TRES (then known as the Tea Manufacture Experiment Station.) Tan has suggested that the name “Oriental Beauty” was invented in 1983 during a visit by the Premier of the ROC (Taiwan is still officially the Republic of China) to the town of Emei although Writer notes a reference to this name in 1956. Nonetheless, the name “Oriental Beauty” was not widely used before 1983 and didn’t become popular until the 1990’s. And that, I’m afraid, is about as clear as I can make this story. What is plain, however, is that most of the naming legends seem to have sprung up as “invented traditions” after the fact. Anything to promote sales, I suppose. I extend special thanks to Scott Writer, a doctoral candidate at Monash University in Melbourne Australia, without whose help this piece could not have been written. Dedicated to fostering one of the oldest traditions in the world — the ancient art of tea — Tillerman Tea strives to introduce North America to authentic, producer direct, Taiwanese oolong tea and to inspire modern appreciation for this traditional beverage. Founder and President David Campbell’s lifelong affection for tea, appetite for knowledge and love of Taiwanese culture led to the launch of Tillerman Tea in 2007. You can find out more at https://tillermantea.net/
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by Nicole Martin
Selecting Dan Cong Oolong Dan Cong oolongs hail from the Phoenix, or Fenghaung, Mountain of China’s Guangdong Province. Fertile soil, high elevation, and a
Phoenix oolongs are named for their unique and very specific characters that mimic fruits, flowers and herbs. No flavoring is added yet the teas like Mi Lan Xiang (Honey Orchid Fragrance) and Xing Ren Xiang (Almond Fragrance) can delight the senses with uncanny aromas. Ya Shi Xiang, also known as King of Duck Shit Aroma, was famously given an unattractive name in order to keep its
misty climate combine to make a complex and
cultivation secret. Mi Lan Xiang is the most easily
aromatic tea. The name directly translates to
accessible variety, particularly for those outside of
English as “lone bush”. Although it is
China.
sometimes claimed that the leaves were taken from a single tree, it is more likely that they
It can be difficult to find high quality examples but there a few points that will help savvy consumers
come from plants that are clones of the
to separate the wheat from the chaff. Matt Tran
original. Tea trees in this region are usually left
and Dawn Liang of Tea Angle often travel to the
unpruned, allowing them to grow to their
region sourcing tea. They warn that if a vendor
natural height. Three to four larger leaves are selected by pluckers rather than the tender buds that we would see in a green tea.
does not list the fragrance then it is likely that what they are actually selling is Lang Cai, a similarly processed tea that is made with lower quality leaves.
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Dan Cong is harvested year round but the best teas are usually produced in the spring months of March and April. The final roasting step is carried out by producers several months later so new teas each year will not be made available to North American consumers until late summer. Summer harvests of Dan Cong are the lowest quality and most bitter tasting. Ideally, vendors will list the month, year, and even a specific date of harvest for the teas that they offer. Inspecting the dry and wet leaf can reveal a lot about the quality of a tea. Look for Dan Cong leaves that are uniformly long, tightly rolled, and mostly unbroken. They will also have a healthy luster with an evenly dark color. The aroma will also be clearly apparent when the leaves are shaken inside of a warm, dry vessel. Some might also have a barely there caramellike sweetness. After the leaves have been infused a few times you should be able to observe that they are still intact with a soft, supple texture. Some red edges are to be expected from oxidation but they should primarily be a vibrant shade of green. The liquor of a high-quality Dan Cong is very clear with a bright, gold color. Teas that are assigned a fruity fragrance tend to be a bit darker than those with floral fragrances.
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The taste of a good Dan Cong should echo its assigned aroma type. Mi Lan Xiang will have sweet notes of honey with orchid aromas while Huang Zhi Xiang might have hints of stonefruit alongside the fragrance of gardenias. There should be a smooth texture with nice depth to the flavor and a lingering aftertaste. Phoenix oolongs are also known for hui gan, a rising sweetness that the drinker experiences in their throat. Although these teas are charcoal roasted, they should never taste of smoke or char. Zhen Lu of Zhen Tea comes from a family that has been working in Chinese tea for more than twenty years. She advises that a good quality Dan Cong should be able to pass the boiling water test. If a tea becomes unpleasantly bitter and astringent when brewed with boiling water, assuming no other parameter has been changed, then it is either poorly processed or made from lower quality material. This is a tip that applies to other varieties of oolong as well. When it comes to Phoenix oolongs you often do get what you pay for. You don’t need to break the bank but be wary of seemingly great deals. They will seldom be of very high quality. Cheaper teas are often grown at a lower elevation, requiring the addition of pesticides and fertilizers in order to meet volume demands. Chose a knowledgeable vendor that sources from the region directly themselves. Fantastical claims about the age of the tree that the leaves were harvested from is a red flag that should be avoided.
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Puerh Reads by Nicole Martin Looking to learn more about puerh? These are some of my favorite books on the subject.
Puer Tea: Ancient Caravans and Urban Chic by Jinghong Zhang Although it is a scholarly study, I found it to be an engaging and fascinating read. Focusing mainly on Yiwu, Zhang gives a thorough analysis of the recent peaks and valleys of the puerh industry in China. A thorough explanation of the 2007 market crash is one highlight that I haven't seen anywhere else. The videos that the author shot during her research add another layer. Whether it's a woman picking tea as she complains about her daughter-in-law or a tense tea room negotiation, each video demonstrates the talking points in the book extremely well.
The Ancient Tea Horse Road by Jeff Fuchs The hardcover version of this book is out of print and extremely rare but thankfully there is a Kindle version available on Amazon. My obvious motivation for reading it was the tea but I quickly found myself drawn in by the people, their stories and the element of adventure. Jeff's voracious appetite for tea and knowledge of the many ethnic minorities of China and Tibet made him the perfect person to tell this tale. Peppered with humor and lots of puerh, it follows his journey along the ancient tea horse road (also known as Cha Ma Gu Dao).
The Tea Girl of Hummingbird Lane by Lisa See This book follows the life a young girl named Li-Yan. She is a member of Akha ethnic minority living on Nannuo Mountain. The reader is given a lot of background information on the beliefs and customs of the Akha as well as insight into daily village life. There are nuggets that will make any puerh lover happy throughout the storyline, though. The tea market crash of 2007 and the modernization of Yunnan are both major occurrences in Li-Yan's life. Even our beloved World Tea Expo gets a mention along with familiar names like Dr. Selena Ahmed.
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Appreciating Chinese Tea Series: Pu-erh Tea by Wang Jidong There are very few Chinese resources on puerh available in English. I bought this book on a whim but was really impressed at the depth of the content. The translations can be a bit wonky in spots but there is a lot of great information. The author covers everything from processing, classification, and brewing to storage. I recommend picking up a physical copy rather than the Kindle edition because of the beautiful photographs throughout its pages. I find myself returning to it for reference material.
Tea Horse Road: China's Ancient Trade Road to Tibet by Michael Freeman and Selena Ahmed This big, beautiful coffee table book was very hard to find in the past but has recently been re-released in a paperback edition. It combines beautiful photographs taken along the path of the ancient trade route with descriptions of the tea and the bio-cultural diversity of Yunnan.
Tea: A User's Guide by Tony Gebely Tony Gebely has been sharing information on tea with the world for years but his book takes things to a whole other nerdy level. The chapters on heicha are particularly interesting. It's a category that I rarely see mentioned and never with the different types broken down by region. There are also some great insights into how puerh is processed.
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From the Blog
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