travel
wonder The
of Cambodia
Cambodia may not be the first country that springs to mind when you think of honeymoon destinations but as Marissa Carruthers found out, there’s more to the country than civil war and Pol Pot.
Tempting food in the Russian Market in Phnom Penh
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magazine - April 2012
www.etcnortheast.co.uk
T
he atrocities committed under Pol Pot tend to overshadow the allure of this south east Asian gem. The idyllic islands that line the coast, mirroring the tranquil peace once enjoyed by neighbouring Thai islands, Sihanoukville’s palm-fringed shores, the endless vista of lush paddy fields, top hospitality, mouth-watering meals and the glorious Angkor Wat all seem to come as an afterthought. It’s true though that to understand Cambodia and appreciate everything it offers you have to learn a little about its turbulent past. Thirty seven years ago, Cambodia was crushed by the iron fist of the Khmer Rouge when on April 17, communist soldiers marched into the capital of Phnom Penh – events immortalised in the film The Killing Fields produced by former Sunderland university chancellor Lord David Puttnum. During the next four years, more than two million people – almost 25 per cent of the population – died at the hands of the bitterly cruel regime led by Pol Pot, whose vision was to create a utopic agrarian society. But it’s the Cambodian’s strong spirit, mantra to each day “try and forgive but never forget” and determination to rebuild a better Cambodia that makes this such an intriguing country. With this in mind, we delved into its dark past and struggled to comprehend the depths humanity can sink to during two essential but harrowing trips while staying in the capital.
travel Sunrise of Angkor Wat
On the outskirts of Phnom Penh, sits the infamous killing field site, Choeung Ek – the largest of the many execution sites and dumping grounds that litter the country. After the Khmer Rouge fell, an excavation revealed mass graves containing 8,895 people buried in huge man-made trenches that still scar the landscape. The majority of the skulls discovered now fill a 62-metre tall Buddhist stupa that solemnly stands in the centre of the site to commemorate all those who suffered. Tuol Sleng, or S-21 prison, is another haunting but essential visit. The Khmer Rouge transformed the city centre school into a political prison that saw more than 14,000 prisoners pass through its heavily guarded doors – of them, only seven survived. Stunned into silence, visitors pass through endless rows of mugshots taken of each prisoner as they enter the torture house before being taken through the prison, which has been gruesomely preserved as a stark reminder of the merciless crimes. But there’s much more to Cambodia and its capital than discovering a tragic past. The small but vibrant city perfectly combines modern with traditional. Grand boulevards surround the stunning Grand Palace, which is open to visitors, many open green parks and intricate temples on pretty much every corner. The streets are full of quirky boutiques, galleries boast an eclectic array of art, and endless collections of cafés, coffee shops, bars and restaurants cater for every taste
and budget. The Russian Market is an adventure if you can face battling the crowds. The loud chatter of haggling surrounds the stalls selling everything from textiles, videos, DVDs, scarves and weird and wonderful fruits, vegetables, meat and fish. A supposedly six but more realistically eighthour bus journey north of Phnom Penh is Siem Reap, a town that has boomed from tourists flocking to explore Angkor Wat. The vast complex of temples built in the 12th century was recently voted the eighth Wonder of the World, and after setting our alarm for 4am to watch the sun rise behind the silhouette of the giant domes it’s easy to see why as this was a moment that will forever be etched into my memory. Spread over more than 400 square kilometres, Angkor Archaeological Park, the set of Tomb Raider, is home to a series of incredibly impressive temple cities. A seven-day pass gives you plenty of templetrekking time to explore the many lesser known ruins scattered across the sprawling park. But with just a one-day ticket the main Angkor Wat site and nearby Bayon Temple with its 37, four-sided stone structures with carved smiling faces on each side, were all we had time for. So with so many things still to see, as we jumped on a 12-hour bus ride across the border to tourist-trampled Thailand, we vowed to return to the country that like the most delicious drug always leaves you wanting more.
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www.etcnortheast.co.uk
Like the most delicious drug it leaves you wanting more
magazine - April 2012
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