Tempus 06

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Devon / ski special / Keith Flint / Borgioni Ultimate auctions / superyachts / Car modification Bespoke shoes / Amir Khan / watch winders 001_Cover.indd 3

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Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

+44 (0) 1256 862 068

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info@corumwatches.co.uk

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www.corum.ch

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Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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www.shamballajewels.com

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Explore the Energy of Creation

Limited Edition Raw black diamond, Colombian Emeralds and 18K Rhodium plated white gold

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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21/08/2012 09:49


Foreword

issue

six Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Ross Trigg

ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4689 Financial Director

Stephen Jones

Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Tempus is published monthly by Aston Greenlake Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er. TEL: 020 3617 4688

When it comes to watches, I am a fickle sort. My choice of watch for the day is one of the first decisions I make, and it’s a crucial one. Like many of you, I suspect, the selection is down to a number of criteria. What I’m wearing that day is obviously a key factor, but there are more esoteric elements at play too. What sort of mood am I in? What meetings do I have today? Have I worn this watch too often recently? It is, quite frankly, a sartorial minefield. As I type this, for example, I’m sporting a beautiful new Bremont white Solo which, truth be told, I keep stopping to glance at in admiration. But I’m not wearing this simply because it’s a recent arrival, but also because it’s a solid, manly choice for an informal gathering I’ve got later with a bunch of friends. Conversely, yesterday saw me strap a vintage Omega Seamaster De Ville to my arm, knowing that the London watchmaker I was due to meet would appreciate the nod to the past. With that in mind, this month sees renowned watch expert Ken Kessler pick the ‘stealth wealth’ timepieces that are best suited for big boardroom meetings. You’ll find his helpful feature on page 38. One watch brand that resolutely refuses to be pigeonholed, though, is the ground-breaking Devon Works. For the uninitiated, this Californian company creates true statement pieces which, as you’ll see from the feature on page 60, have caused some controversy with watchmaking traditionalists. Elsewhere, we celebrate the upcoming ski season with a guide to the best piste-based action in the French Alps, reveal some of the finest watch winders on the planet and catch up with Keith Flint, frontman of The Prodigy, endurance motorbike racer and ambassador for Graham watches. A man who has, we suspect, never worried about the correct watch to wear at a boardroom meeting. Enjoy the issue.

Scott Manson Editor

Ken Kessler One of the world’s foremost watch journalists, Ken Kessler is perfectly placed to choose the best watches to wear for crucial boardroom meetings, on page 29.

Alex Doak Watch journalist Alex Doak reflects on the exquisite timepieces created by George Daniels, on page 30.

Laura McCreddie As editor of Retail Jeweller magazine, Laura McCreddie can spot a well-crafted piece of jewellery at fifty paces. On page 32 she shares her frustration of celebrities masquerading as jewellery designers.

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Big Date Instantaneous Triple Calendar Grade 5 titanium and 18K white gold

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02/10/2012 09:45


Contents

Inside issue six

55 Good Times

The Prodigy frontman Keith Flint on life in the fast lane 60 Born in the USA

Cutting-edge watch brand Devon is the epitome of Californian creativity 66 The Family Jewels

The mother and daughter team behind Borgioni reveal the secrets of their success 72 Last Men Standing

The best bespoke shoemakers

12 Take Me There

Why Indonesia is heaven on earth for painter Andrew Hewkin

79 Mod My Motor

Exciting custom options for your car

15 Luxury Briefing

84 Michelin-starred skiing

Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

Why Courchevel is a must for foodies 88 Fresh Tracks

21 Auction Watch

Family-friendly holidays on the piste

Our pick of the best watches and jewellery going under the hammer

92 Life at the Top

23 Food and Drink

Where to eat, drink and be merry 26 On the Scene

Amir Khan drops in to Frost of London

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29 The Word

France’s most impressive ski chalets and hotels 96 Top Five Ski Resorts in France

We pick the best spots, on and off the piste

Alex Doak on George Daniels; Ken Kessler on watch straps; Laura McCreddie on celebrity jewellery designers

98 This Season’s Best Ski Gear

34 Object of Desire

105 The Greatest Show on Earth

All eyes are on Damon Dash’s dazzling watch brand, Tiret

How to look the part 101 Wellbeing

Luxurious ways to stay in shape Cover: Devon Steampunk

38 Coming Correct

109 Flagship Ferrari

The right watch to wear in the boardroom

Ferrari’s latest supercar goes under the spotlight

44 Switch your Strap

110 Grooming

Breathe new life into a loved timepiece with a custom-made strap 48 The World’s Best Winders

Why watch winders are now a luxury item in their own right

52 Fashion and Accessories

Exclusive adornments

Behind the scenes at the Monaco Yacht Show

Our resident expert selects the best skincare products Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Ben Smith & Simon Berkovitch

112 The Television will be Revolutionised

Tomorrow’s televisions today 114 Moments in Time

Boris Becker and his Ebel

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24/09/2012 09:35


Take me there For every luxury holiday, heaven on earth is the destination we all dream of. Painter Andrew Hewkin believes he’s located it in Indonesia. ‘Heaven on Earth’ is the evocative title of the internationally-exhibited painter’s latest exhibition in London this November. For this 50-strong show of paintings at The Gallery, Cork Street, London. Andrew drew inspiration from his exotic trip on the Silolona – a traditional wooden phinisi (a two-masted sailing ship) pictured here around the beautiful Indonesian islands of Raja Ampat in January this year.

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The Silolona’s owner, a fan of Andrew’s work, comissioned him to work his magic on the waters of South East Asia, using the vessel and the landscapes of Indonesia as the subject matter. Prepare to be inspired and ready your sea legs…

Heaven on Earth runs from 12-17 November at The Gallery, andrewhewkin.com

21/09/2012 09:33


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16/08/2012 11:59


Luxury briefing

Temple of Jobs TonSchrein The TonSchrein - or Sound Shrine - is surely the most luxurious iPad dock ever built. Designed by Bavariabased photographer Georg Dinkel, this iPad throne is made from polymer clay and painted in a suitably regal manner. Also equipped with a 2.1-speaker sound system, the piece would make any home entertainment system a stunning, if eccentric, talking point.

Because the best things in life aren’t free

bits-fuer-uns.de

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21/09/2012 10:39


Luxury briefing

Upper class Hilton Park Lane An overhead view of a city gives you a great perspective of life, in the same way a puff of a Cuban cigar or a sip of a dry martini does. And there are few views to beat those from the 26th floor Penthouse Suite at London’s Park Lane Hilton. Hyde Park, Mayfair and Buckingham Palace can all be seen from the comfort of a private balcony. The

suite recently underwent a £500,000 refurb, courtesy of celebrated designer Lynne Hunt, and now includes a state-of-the-art bathroom (complete with a TV set into the mirror), bespoke lighting, a dining room with space for eight people, a vast lounge and two bedrooms. Naturally, a private butler service is also available.

hilton.co.uk

Military hardware Bremont The ALT1-WT has been developed for the civilian market following 2010’s celebrated C-17 Globemaster, a limited edition piece made for a “pre-selected”group of serving military personnel. This global timer watch, crafted in steel, has a hardness and scratch resistance of 2000 Vickers (trust us, it’s tough). With immaculately finished details such as the dial surface and automatic chronometer that uses the movement of the wearer to keep it fully wound, this is set to be another Bremont classic.

bremont.com

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21/09/2012 10:40


Racing green Jaguar Formula One cars with regenerative braking, bio-fuelled Koenigseggs, hybrid Porsches, and now Jaguar’s C-X75: it seems supercars have well and truly gone green. Fuel economy, CO2 emissions and zero-emission running potential are now being trumpeted alongside acceleration figures and top speeds. For the

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forthcoming Jag, that means a super and turbocharged 500bhp 1.6-litre engine with electrical assistance. An incongruous mix, but the supercar should no longer be seen as a selfish purchase – the modern high performance driver still wants moonshot speeds, but cares about how they get there. Contradictory? Perhaps, but the experimental (read: expensive) technology is the perfect fit for hefty supercar sticker prices.

jaguar.com

21/09/2012 10:40


Luxury briefing

Kenya: kick it

Knight of the road

Sankara Nairobi

Hammarhead Ninety-Two

The intrepid traveller must pack well, be unfazed by delays and always know where the best bar is, no matter how remote the location. The Champagne Bar in the Sankara Nairobi hotel will have your travelling companions agog after a hard week’s safari. Nairobi’s first rooftop champagne bar has stunning skyline views and offers an impressive list of more than 20 champagnes, plus accompaniments such as oysters, tramezzo (lobster sandwich) and truffles. Little wonder that the hotel has won a score of awards since opening in 2010, including an entry on Condé Nast Traveller’s coveted Hot List.

Triumph has been a byword for motorbike cool for more than a century, but Hammarhead Industries’ interpretation of Triumph’s 07-08 Bonneville is one of the most exciting bikes in the marque’s history. Stripped of non-essential hardware, the Ninety-Two is powered by an 865cc twin engine and fitted with custom intakes, an aggressive suspension and Zard exhaust. Marinegrade material is used for the fenders, seat and paint so wear-and-tear is minimal, while the all-black appearance adds to a fearsome road presence.

hammarhead.com

sankara.com

Fast finish Hublot Hublot’s role as the official watchmaker of Formula One has inspired its newest timepiece. The F1 King Power Great Britain’s high-tech features evoke those of a racing car, such as the brake-disc styling of the carbon fibre bezel and push-buttons for starting and resetting. Classic Hublot features remain, with the case fashioned from 18K King Gold, the name of Hublot’s special gold alloy – redder then traditional gold thanks to an increase in copper and added platinum. Available in a limited run of 250 pieces.

hublot.com

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21/09/2012 10:41


By Appointment Only

64 Knightsbridge

London, SW1X 7JF

(opposite to Harvey Nichols)

Tel : 0 2 0 7 5 8 9 0 7 7 7

www.mozafarian.com 000_Ad.indd 1

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A gentleman’s stainless steel manual wind chronograph Zenith El Primero HW bracelet watch. Estimate £1,000 - £1,500

A gentleman’s 18k gold automatic Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Power Reserve wrist watch. Estimate £2,500 - £3,000

Auction of Vintage & Modern Wrist Watches

A gentleman’s stainless steel automatic Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet watch. Estimate £8,000 - £12,000

Monday 15th October at 11am A gentleman’s 18k white gold automatic Patek Philippe Annual Calendar wrist watch. Estimate £10,000 - £15,000

www.fellows.co.uk Fellows Auctioneers | 19 Augusta Street | Birmingham B18 6JA | 0121 212 2131 London Office (Valuations By Appointment Only) | 2nd Floor |3 Queen Street | London W1J 5PA | 020 7127 4198

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19/09/2012 10:53


Auction watch Words – Hannah Silver

Under the hammer From hen’s-teeth-rare watches to opulent jewellery and fine spirits, here’s our pick of the best the auctioneers have to offer

Bonhams

Bonhams’ Fine and Rare Wine sales are worth keeping an eye on for the opportunity to acquire some truly impressive bottles. The most recent sale featured this bottle of Rémy Martin Black Pearl Cognac that came bottled in a limited edition crystal decanter. The cognac is made using a special blend of 1200 eaux de vie and is between 40 and 100 years old, making it one of the world’s most sought-after spirits.

Estimated at £5,000 - £7,000. The next Fine and Rare Wines sale is on 25 October. bonhams.com

Bonhams

George Daniels was unusual among modern watchmakers in conceiving, designing and hand-building watches from scratch. Upon his death last year, he left a legacy of a few dozen pocket watches and wristwatches – his life’s work – each of which would have taken 2,500 hours of craftsmanship. This piece is a rare white gold automatic calendar and features a jewelled automatic movement with Daniels’ co-axial escapement.

Estimated at £70,000 - £100,000. The Fine Watches and Wristwatches sale is on 18 December. bonhams.com

Fellows

Dating from around 1870, this glamorous bangle is made in the traditional Assyrian revival style and has a Streeter-like design, suggesting the famous Victorian jeweller may have fashioned the bangle for its first retailer, Hancock’s and Co. It comes beautifully packaged in a case designed by the Earl of Dudley.

Estimated at £3,500-£4,500. The Antique and Modern Jewellery auction is on 11 October fellows.co.uk

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21/09/2012 10:37


M ESURE ET DÉMESURE *

TONDA QUATOR Rose gold Automatic movement Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland

* EXACT AND EXULTANT

www.parmigiani.ch

LONDON ARIJE | ASPREY | HARRODS YORK HARPERS CHELTENHAM BEARDS FOR FURTHER STOCKIST INFORMATION CONTACT 020 3355 7702

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20/09/2012 11:35

PARMIGIANI • Tonda Quator • Format: 240x300 mm • Magazine: Tempus (GB) • Calitho 09-12-78321


Food & Drink

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens

Corrigan heads to Harrods

Bocca di Lupo Bocca di Lupo, an Italian phrase used to wish good luck, which translates as ‘the wolf ’s mouth’, was particularly apt for us on the night we visited. We were, in the words of Simon le Bon, hungry like the wolf. The restaurant, found on one of Soho’s quieter (and more salubrious) streets remains arguably the area’s best opening of recent years. It specialises in obscure regional highlights from Italy, with the menu items handily (if you’re a food geek, like me, at least) labelled by area. Tourists dropping in for a post-theatre meal might be disappointed, then, that there’s no spaghetti carbonara on the menu but I’m willing to bet that if they stuck around they would discover a whole host of new favourite dishes. I was dining with a male friend, and neither of us are exactly svelte, so there was some initial dismay at being seated at the long Carrara marble bar, rather than at one of the tables. After a bit of shuffling though, and a relaxing glass of Prosecco, we quickly realised that our prime position next to the shiny and bustling open kitchen was actually the best spot in the house. Just a few feet away, a remarkably calm kitchen team plated up dish after dish of fabulous looking food while we frantically searched the menu to try and identify which of these we should

Reviewed by Scott Manson be ordering. A bottle of bone dry Dossi delle Querce helped inform our first dishes: a signature salad of crisp radish and celeriac, scatted with pomegranate and drizzled with truffle oil, plus a translucent sea bream carpaccio, spiked with capers for some added zing. We followed it up with some fritti romani, delicate fried finger food that included a meltingly soft breaded mozzarella ball and a dim sum style olive stuffed with minced pork and veal. A spicy sausage pasta dish followed, so hot it required several glasses of water to accompany it, plus a home made sausage infused with truffle, nutmeg and cinnamon and served quiveringly pink. The final dish was something we’d been watching hitting the grill with a flare of flame all night – the roast suckling pig with grapes, wine and bay. Crispy skin, beautifully tender meat and deep aromatic flavourings made this the standout dish of the evening. No visit to Bocca di Lupo is complete without popping over the road to Gelupo, its artisan ice cream bar. We could only manage a coffee but, from the rapturous expressions on the other customers’ faces, it’s clear that this is another solid gold hit. If you’re in Soho, do not ignore the call of the wolf.

boccadilupo.com

Richard Corrigan, one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs, has chosen Harrods’ famous food hall as the site for his third London restaurant and, after an evening sampling the menu, the Tempus team can give the new Bentley’s Sea Grill its seal of approval. Expect exceptional seafood, such as the hot rock oysters found at Bentley’s Oyster Bar and the royal fish pie first served at the Queen’s 80th birthday. A great spot in the food hall that boasts new seating and key design elements from Bentley’s Oyster Bar means surroundings are sumptuous and the atmosphere is buzzing.

harrods.com

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Food & Drink

You’ll find me in by Peter Dean the club

Every man should have a wine club. It’s my version of a book club, ‘Fifty Shades of Red’ if you will. A chance to share those special bottles and try and fox someone with a finer palette. You can organise a horizontal tasting where one member shows a number of the same style and vintage from different producers (five 2001 Chateauneuf du Papes was memorable at a recent meeting) or a vertical tasting. In other words, five vintages from the same producer. I recommend carte blanche, however, as the most fun, easy to arrange and yes, godammit, educational. Three current wine club winners Cape Mentelle produces an excellent range of wines from Oz’s Margaret River. The 1996 cabernet sauvignon showed what good cellaring can do to one of their premium reds. It was a big earthy wine with lots of sweet dark fruit.

frw.co.uk

La Cuvee du Papet is a 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos du Mont-Olivet which Robert Parker lauded on release but then later scored down. A steal for £43 from Fine and Rare Wines, although I have noticed bottle variation in this classic vintage. Buy one bottle at a time.

frw.co.uk

A gorgeously rich and honeyed 1989 Clos du Bourg Vouvray, Le Haut Lieu Moelleux from Huet. You can buy a bottle for £95.40 from Underwood Wine Warehouse, although I would recommend storing it for 10 to 20 years as it drinks at every stage of its long life.

underwoodwines.co.uk

Oskar’s Bar

Reviewed by Ross Trigg

“Go on then, I’ll just have one more. No, honestly Oskar, I can only have one more… okay maybe two.” If you’re planning to pop in for a quick drink after work at Oskar’s Bar, the subterranean cocktail spot below Dabbous, arguably the hottest restaurant in London right now, then don’t make any further plans for the night. Situated on a quiet corner of Fitzrovia’s Charlotte Street, Oskar’s is as welcoming and comfortable as your own lounge; yet as effortlessly cool as the New York loft apartment of your dreams. With its exposed brick, scorched wood tables and hammered metal seats covered in buttery soft leather, this is clearly hipster central. It’s no triumph of style over substance, though, with our first drink being a barrel-aged negroni that Don Draper would be proud of. Comprising Martin Miller’s Gin, Sacred spiced English vermouth and Campari, all rested in an American oak barrel to give the cocktail a deep smoky fragrance with a smooth bitter aftertaste. Naturally, being attached to a restaurant which has received universally glowing reviews means that the bar menu is bang on. With owner Oskar’s direction we sampled some of the most moreish mouthfuls I have ever tasted. Coddled free range egg with woodland mushrooms and smoked

butter, served in its shell and placed in a bowl of smoking straw, was like scrambled eggs raised to a high art. We followed this with barbecued Iberico pork, savory acorn praline, turnip tops and homemade apple vinegar. It was so good that we were tempted to pop upstairs and tell those people desperately queuing on the off chance of a restaurant cancellation that they should simply pop down and get busy with the bar food instead. We didn’t, of course, because losing a seat in this heavenly spot is absolutely unthinkable. Earthy, innovative, genuine and home to some of the most interesting cocktails in the capital – Oskar’s is the quintessential basement bar.

dabbous.co.uk

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Elegance by

9A Windsor End, Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire HP9 2JJ England t: 00 44 (0)1494 680488 e: info@delamerie.com www.delamerie.com

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03/09/2012 14:03


Out there

Amir Khan at Frost of London Our friends at top London jeweller Frost of London recently invited the Tempus team down to the store for an exclusive charity auction and meet and greet with champion boxer (and keen watch collector) Amir Khan. After we’d fought our way through the waiting paparazzi outside the Mayfair store, and helped ourselves to a glass of champagne and some delicious canapés once inside, we

enjoyed a fascinating evening rubbing shoulders with the great and good of the sporting world. Footballer John Carew and boxer Lennox Lewis were both in attendance, while a number of notable business leaders made some generous bids for the boxingrelated auction prizes, racking up over £30,000 for charity in under 30 minutes. Now that’s what we call a knockout evening...

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Apsley Tailors 13-13a Pall Mall, London, SW1Y 5LU 0207 925 2238 info@apsleytailors.com

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03/09/2012 16:16


The Word

Ken Kessler straps and sharp practice Of all the scams in watchdom, the most widespread and devious involve straps. Yes, those simple strips that hold the watch to your wrist. And you thought I was gonna say fakes. Before we proceed, note that a “strap” is made of rubber, plastic, canvas, silk, cloth or – most commonly – leather. If it’s made of metal links, then it’s a ‘bracelet’. (I am amused to say that my compatriots across the pond still call them watchbands…) Lesson over. Why is the strap the subject of such calumny? It is the one aftermarket purchase that invites easy, intuitive villainy – though the ever-escalating cost of servicing runs it a close second. Nearly all watch manufacturers abuse the customer by overcharging for straps, while disreputable dealers have, over the decades, fattened their purses with a particularly devious ruse. That ruse, which we’ll deal with first, involves the humble buckle. Or not so humble, as gold nears $2,000 an ounce. For decades, countless retailers have deftly swapped straps for customers, without retro-fitting the original buckle to the new strap. And believe me, the cost of a buckle commandeered from a Patek Philippe or a Vacheron and replaced with some piece of gold-plated dreck, as comes standard with aftermarket straps, is roughly 500:1. Am I making this up? No. I dealt in vintage watches for over 20 years and lost count of the number of times that retailers pulled out boxes from under their counters, filled to the brim with original buckles. Nowadays, they’re worth melting down, if they’re not from prestigious makes. And it’s not just gold. Ask a retailer what Rolex charges for a stainless-steel buckle with the famous crown logo. This gambit no longer works as well as it once did, because modern watch customers are more savvy. The sort of customer who goes into a shop for a new strap for his Breitling/Corum/Omega/TAG Heuer/ et al will soon notice if the new strap has a cheapo generic buckle. But keep that deception in mind the next time you need a strap. And always make sure you just buy the strap if you already have a suitable buckle. Do not let them sell you a second buckle at huge expense. What also makes the process of buying a strap unpleasant are the prices charged by manufacturers for their own straps. Most people automatically ask for the own-brand strap. But an incident 20 years ago in a friend’s shop sums up both extremes: greedy watch brands, as well as tight-fisted customers. (Nobody is innocent…) An elderly gent entered the shop, needing a strap for a fine gold watch, owned from new. Interestingly, it was from one of the few companies that didn’t overcharge. When he was told a new strap was £40, he blew a fuse – despite the watch being worth £1,000.

Ken Kessler is a journalist and watch expert

He effed and blinded, before leaving with a £7 piece of crap that was more cardboard than leather. In between were superb straps with sane prices from good companies. But, instinctively, the customer asked for a strap made by his brand. I witnessed this so many times that I stopped wondering why the brands persist: it’s a cash cow. One chronograph maker charges £250 for its straps. I know who makes the straps for that brand; sold under their own name, they cost £60. I have a crocodile waist belt from another famous maker, and I’m an overweight chap, so it’s enough leather for six straps. The belt costs less than the company charges for a watch strap. And more than one brand charges as much for a strap as Church’s will charge you for a pair of finely crafted shoes. Think of the amounts of leather used and labour involved, and then look at a watch strap. So, a word of advice: no matter how much it means to you to have the watchmaker’s name on the strap, think twice about buying it unless 1) it’s a unique strap that can only be replaced by an original, like the fitted rubber straps on many diving watches, or 2) you like to flush money down the toilet.

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21/09/2012 10:34


The Word

Alex Doak The Universe on Your wrist

The death last year of “World’s Greatest Watchmaker” George Daniels precipitated a tide of tributes – obituaries, retrospectives and auctions – which introduced a fresh generation of enthusiasts not only to this British genius and his body of work (just 36 exquisite watches) but also the joyous world of mechanical watchmaking. After all, the reason Daniels embarked on his career in the 1960s was to show up “those damned electricians” and their quartz technology – technology that almost decimated the Swiss watch industry in the 1980s. Daniels’ death reminded me of the anecdote that described his particular lightbulb moment. At just five years old, he had a cheap pocket watch and decided to prise off the back with a knife. In his words: “What I saw inside the case was the centre of the universe. It had a curious completeness. The contents started at one end with the mainspring and proceeded in a circle to the inside of the case to the vibrating balance wheel. And it was a complete composite world; it didn’t seem to need any assistance from the outside; it was perfectly happy to work quietly away in its closed case.”

Wherein lies the deep satisfaction of mechanical watches. Many will spend their thousands on a watch because it articulates their status or fashion sense while more discerning collectors will get carried away by the technique required to form and finely polish the many hundreds of components by hand. It’s worth noting at this point that Daniels had mastered all 34 crafts necessary to do this – arguably the only person in history to have done so. But it’s not the symbolism or craftsmanship that excites me the most. It’s that it feels like you have a living, breathing entity on your wrist, with a heartbeat tick-tick-ticking inside. I can get the same tingle of delight looking through the back of a Daniels as I do when I turn over an Omega (all kitted out with Daniels’s own co-axial escapement nowadays) or a TAG-Heuer, or U-Boat, or any other high-street product containing a standard Swiss movement, churned out by a semi-automated production line. It’s not even because the mechanical watch is a defiant anachronism in our digital age, or a raised middle finger to those “damned electricians” and their battery-powered tat – I’m all for progress, and some of the most treasured pieces populating my dressing table are quartz. It’s simply because that symphonic arrangement of metal springs, cogs and wheels all combine to become something whole and organic, into which something else organic – you, in other words – must breathe life; whether that’s by the natural motion of your arm or the daily routine of manual winding prior to turning out the bedside lamp. A mechanical watch doesn’t just feel alive, it’s also beguiling to behold. Daniels noted that, as you shape every component, the mechanics take on a natural beauty and elegance by sheer necessity. Just as a tree is thicker at the base of its trunk than the tips of its branches, you would never attach a pinion by its thinner end and apply a heavy wheel at the other. So, by creating a mechanical watch, you are abiding by the natural laws of the universe. And for that reason, a mechanical watch is a miniature universe itself.

Alex Doak is a watch journalist

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Turbine Xl, A1050/1 Technology of the Double Rotor.

Made by movement

www.perrelet.com

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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27/04/2012 10:33


The Word

Laura McCreddie trends in jewellery A couple of months ago, the celebrity-loving Daily Mail decided that, despite war in Sudan and the ongoing eurozone crisis, it would run a story on Angelina Jolie becoming a jewellery designer. I use that job description in the loosest possible sense. Apparently, raising six children, pursuing a career as an actor and single-handedly tackling developing-world crises is not enough for Jolie. So she teamed up with actual jewellery designer Robert Procop and created a range of pieces called Style of Jolie, which were sold at Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat and at Monaco’s Hotel de Paris earlier this year. By choosing jewellery designer as her “but actually” career – you know, when you ask people what they do and they say “I work in accounts but actually I’m a stand-up comedian/singer in a band/DJ/ photoblogger” – Jolie has joined such illustrious company as Cheryl Cole, who designed a ring for De Grisogono back in 2010, and Made in Chelsea-ites Caggie Dunlop and Amber Atherton, both of whom recently launched jewellery ranges. All of this, frankly, does the jewellery industry no favours.

If I were a betting woman, and in this incidence I think I’ll have a little flutter, I would say not one of those women has actually sat at a bench, let alone picked up a pencil or a mouse in order to create these designs they are so keen to put their names to. The thing that rankles is that being a jewellery designer is bloody hard work, and these celebs perpetuate that the myth that it’s a walk in the park. It takes time, dedication, talent and a lot of “right time, right place” luck. You need a good eye and an aesthetic in order to create beautiful pieces, otherwise, as Theo Fennell said in this very publication last month: “It’s just stuff – accessories with diamonds stuck on them. [And] all they are saying about the wearer is that they have a lot of money”. However, all is not lost. Despite big brands holding dominance over the industry for the past few years, there is a sea change occurring, spearheaded by the likes of Fennell, Stephen Webster and Shaun Leane. People who have all proved that you can go from being a solitary artisan to become a global player. In places such as Birmingham’s jewellery quarter and London’s Hatton Garden, hubs of designers are springing up: artists who create their pieces at a bench using traditional skills rather than getting them knocked up in bulk at a factory in Thailand. Their names won’t be familiar to the average person in the street yet, but you only have to look at Clarice Price Thomas’s horologically inspired pieces, Claire English’s magpie claw necklaces or Reid Peppard’s jewellery cast from animal bones to know that these people live and breathe jewellery. Their work is as much about art and craftsmanship as any mechanical watch and a million miles away from those tragic celebrity-peddled pieces. And it’s reassuring to know that they are out there because it means that traditional design is still thriving. And really, in years to come, would you rather hand a piece of jewellery over to your son or daughter saying, “This is a Theo Fennell original” or “This was designed by one of the Sugababes”?

Laura McCreddie is editor of Retail Jeweller magazine.

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Swiss movement, English heart

Bespoke Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement (Calibre JJ02) from master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke / Each piece, of only 250, personally assembled by Johannes in our Swiss atelier / Supremely engineered, 43mm, 316L stainless steel case with full diameter transparent case-back / Unique serial number engraved on case and movement / Premium Louisiana alligator deployment strap / 5 year movement guarantee

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Objects of desire

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Tiret The world of hip-hop is known for its love of diamonds, usually the bigger the better. It’s refreshing, then, to see that Damon Dash, co-founder of the seminal Roc-a-fella record label, has had a hand in creating objects of true beauty. In 2004 he launched New York jewellers Tiret, in conjunction with artist Daniel Lazar, and has seen the brand garner awards and win acclaim with every release. Tiret’s Limited Edition series of watches is its best yet, with each version available in a run of just 18 pieces. This, the first in the series, retails at around £70,000 and features 80 baguette-cut diamonds and 100 small round pave diamonds. The modified ETA calibre 2671 self-winding movement is enclosed in a solid steel case, while the interior is crafted from 18-carat white gold and peppered with invisible-set baguettecut diamonds. It may look pretty, but this is a tough, formidable timepiece for serious watch fans and jewellery lovers alike.

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Perfect pitch

In the latest in our series, Ken Kessler explains how, if you tailor your tastes appropriately, the right work watch can all but do your networking for you

Coming correct

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Coming correct

ome years ago, a savvy friend whose work clientele consisted solely of multi-millionaires explained why he bought a Saab. Stop sniggering: I realise the brand recently folded, but right up to its demise, a Saab had a truly specific cachet and customer profile. It was the Apple Mac of cars: politically correct, beloved of hypocritical champagne socialists, wittily designed and guaranteed to get you laid by a Guardian reader. It oozed university education, eating tofu, yadayadayada. None of which applied to my friend, who smoked, gambled and generally misbehaved, but, boy, could he sell. Anyway, he explained that his customers – his work involved multimillion-pound architectural installations – didn’t want to see him

driving a car that cost a fortune because the subtext would be that he made too much money: ie, he overcharged. Arriving at a meeting with a Bentley or a Benz would somehow suggest to clients that he was “on the same level”, when – clearly – he should be their inferior. Yet another consideration was taste: the Saab, being politically correct and holier-than-thou, avoided the flash of a BMW or Audi, the boy-racer-ness of an Alfa Romeo, or the (no longer applicable) fusty antiques-dealer image of a Volvo. The Saab, like Goldilocks’ porridge, was just right. What does this have to do with wearing the right watch when making a pitch? Even if what you’re hawking is not an item for commercial sale, but an idea to a client or your boss, or – simply – yourself for a better job, the watch must not distract from, nor undermine, your proposal. You must choose it with the same care as you selected your shoes, for it will say something about you. You should look upon such confrontations as occasions with their own etiquette. Forget oversized watches, bling, hugely expensive timepieces, absurd complications. Okay, if you’re selling aviation parts or sports gear or high-performance tyres, a chronograph might prove apt, but leave the Gyro Gearloose nerdwear with seven stopwatches, temperature gauge, solar power and Bluetooth to the types who indulge in paintball wars or worship Bill Gates. A time-only piece such as Giuliano Mazzuoli’s Manometro, to a fellow connoisseur, will suggest a knowledge of design, an appreciation for retro purity and a love for Italy or all three.

Top: Chronoswiss Grand Pacific Above: Sinn 103 Classic Chronograph

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Coming correct

Additionally, it will show you care enough about watches to spend a substantial amount, but not as much as the price of a Porsche Cayman; this speaks volumes for your attitude to costs. So, if you’re facing a conference room filled with architects or interior designers, the Manometro will make their eyes pop out so far that they’ll graze the glass on their silly little rectangular frameless glasses. But they will love you because they will think you are one of them, without you actually arriving at the meeting with a copy of Wallpaper* under your arm. It won’t seal the deal, but it will suggest you know what you’re talking about. Chronoswiss’s Grand Pacific on a strap says “no nonsense”, perfect for facing a bank manager. It’s an example

Top: Giuliano Mazzuoli’s Manometro Lingotto Above: Patek Philippe Calatrava

of truly tasteful styling; it could have been made in any decade since 1940. It’s highly legible. It’s discreet. You can say that about a vast price span of time-only watches, from affordable Hamilton Intra-Matics to classic Ebels to Patek Philippe Calatravas – they’re all subtle and tell you only the hours, minutes and seconds. Just make certain that the value of the watch doesn’t send out the wrong vibe: neither too expensive nor too downmarket. You simply cannot know how watch-savvy the target of your pitch may be, and how much they’ll glean from your wristwear. Just leave the Wristmaster for the Goodwood Revival. By all means tailor your watch to your field of operation. If you work for a speaker manufacturer or the creator of anything else involving industrial magnets, a Rolex Milgauss or IWC Ingenieur will demonstrate

your seriousness. Chronographs such as Sinn’s, Glycine’s or Muhle Glashutte’s military models suggest an awareness of time and motion. If you outfit yachts, sell scuba equipment or book holidays in the Maldives, any suitably nautical choice from Corum will send out the right signals, provided you resist those with precious metals and gems. You’re pushing an idea, not a kilo of coke. There is, of course, an alternate view to all of this. My friend also pointed out the conflicting response to his Saab: a sleazy, flashy, predatory Gordon Gekko-type of client might look at the car and think, “This guy can’t be much cop if all he can afford is a Saab.” Which might seem like the justification for wearing a platinum double-tourbillon with a six-figure price tag. But, suffice it to say, my friend stuck with the Saab and his company hasn’t stopped growing.

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www.pockets.co.uk

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Watch straps

Upgrade your watch with the help of a stylish, new strap. Choose hipster chic or a touch of timeless class A watch strap can transform a good watch into a magnificent one, or can rejuvenate a timepiece that you’ve grown tired of. Hipsters pair their vintage watches with thick, NATO nylon straps, while true watch connoisseurs

sport Rolexes set off brilliantly by straps fashioned from exotic skins, such as yellow toad, blue lizard or red stingray. If you’re looking to switch your strap, the brands featured here should fulfil your every need.

01 Atelier du Bracelet Parisien

This tiny workshop in Paris has sold a wide range of luxurious watch straps since 1997. They can be crafted in anything from alligator and toad to lizard and shagreen (stingray), or even fashioned from the hide of vintage baseball gloves. Thickness, colour, lining and stitching of the leather are all completely bespoke, too. Visitors to the store can have a strap ready in 90 minutes or, for those not planning a trip on the Eurostar any time soon, straps can also be selected online.

abp-paris.com

02 Jean Rousseau

Originally established in 1954 as a partner to various Swiss watch companies, Jean Rousseau is a classic brand that has since expanded internationally with its latest outpost based in London’s Piccadilly Arcade. A focus on ethical materials means the skins and leathers used are of the highest quality and strictly regulated, with materials supplied by farms and tanneries that have been comprehensively vetted.

jean-rousseau.com

03 Westminster Watch Co.

Formerly trade-only suppliers, Westminster Watch Co. knows its business. And that business is producing some of the finest handmade leather straps on the planet. The company is also the only British manufacturer to offer a one year guarantee on all products.

westminsterwatchcompany.com

Switch your strap

04 GasGasBones

GasGasBones offers a hip take on bespoke watch straps with a wide variety of nylon options which, when paired with a vintage timepiece, provides a stylish contrast. Loved by the big brands – the company has created bespoke straps for Bremont – GasGasBones can also make a strap to your own design, giving your watch a truly unique look.

gasgasbones.com

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In a spin Words – Hannah Silver

A quality winder is an essential a companion for your beloved timepiece as Watson is to Holmes. We reveal the ones to watch atch winders may be, at their heart, a practical purchase. They keep your timepieces fully wound and prevent oil pooling in a mechanical watch. The very best winders, though – the ones to which serious collectors aspire – are much more than that. Crafted from whatever material you desire, features can

include internal lighting, speaker systems, climate control and an atomic-clocksynchronised time display Your watches can be housed in a handsome display case or discreetly hidden in a piece that sits seamlessly on a shelf or in a cupboard. Quite simply, no true watch aficionado should be without one.

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Origin Times Origin Times keeps its wide range exclusive by restricting production numbers. Particularly striking is the Black Diamond range, which is virtually a piece of jewellery in its own right. It features a rotating glass pyramid, covered in a tough nano-coating, which can be lit at night for a funky spinning ‘disco ball’ effect.

origintimes.com

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Wolf Designs Wolf Designs has come a long way since its silversmith beginnings in 1834. The company’s long history of well-crafted pieces is evident in its watch winders which feature handcrafted wooden frames, silver textured silk faceplates and subtle, pebble-finish exteriors. Technological features are just as well thought out, with a number of rotation options allowing you to choose what’s right for your watch and a delayed program-start, making it easy to plan ahead.

wolfdesigns.com

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In a spin

Kudoe, Schli & Matz For truly luxurious pieces, German company Kuoe, Schli & Matz is a must-check. Its watch winders are opulent pieces of technology that can be crafted to bespoke specifications. The Morphosis model turns to reveal 21 individually-programmable watch winders and comes in a choice of finishes that include carbon, ray skin, fabric or fine fur. It also features an integrated sound system that can be controlled on your smartphone. The Agilis model features side end planes that function as loudspeakers and are controlled wirelessly, while the watches themselves can be viewed through a series of hatches that open and close silently, like the eyes of a giant robot. Slightly disconcerting, but very cool.

kudoeschlimatz.com

Buben & Zorweg Buben & Zorweg’s Time Mover is arguably the most technologically advanced winder we’ve come across. It’s powered by motors that ensure ultraquiet running, while electronic shielding prevents any unwanted electromagnetic charge building on the watch’s hairspring. There’s also a sleep phase which allows the mainspring to release tension to give the winding mechanism a break, ensuring perfect accuracy. A five year warranty comes as standard.

buben-zorweg.com

Rapport A watch and clock manufacturer since 1898, this fourthgeneration family-run business now builds beautifully made bespoke watch winders, too. These include features such as interior lighting, ebony or mahogany finishes and independent controls for each watch holder. The Commander series is Rapport’s most advanced, with impressive details, including an LCD display that lets you select multidimensional rotation, quick-wind mode and a ‘turns per day’ setting.

rapportlondon.com

Andrew West An interior designer specialising in woodwork, Andrew West became fascinated by watch winders after a special commission from a Saudi prince, who wanted a discreet cabinet that would wind and display 25 automatic movement watches. Andrew began producing his own versions which combined technical ability with an artistic sensibility, resulting in watch winders that are not only made from the best materials but also entirely by hand. An internal microprocessor lets the watch rest every three minutes, eliminating any risk of damage.

andrewwestinteriors.co.uk

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State of grace

The latest in cutting-edge luxury from Frost of London

01 Theo Fennell

Theo Fennell pieces combine opulence with a quirky edge, and the British designer’s latest collection is testament to his unique vision. Taking the rainforest as inspiration, Fennell has created an 18-carat yellow gold and green beryl ring decorated with diamonds. It opens to reveal a miniature gold tree frog perched on a branch. Luxury, then, but with a world awareness.

£23,950

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Fashion & Accessories frostof london.co.uk

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02 Urban Jungle

This horn bracelet is a great statement piece. Large pear-shaped stones, white diamonds and chunky gold in a gothic-style design make it a true talking point.

ÂŁ40,390

03 Perrelet

The double-rotor Turbine Dragon celebrates of the year of the dragon. When the turbine is set, it reveals the mythical animal carved from Polynesian motherof-pearl and crafted on to a white mother-of-pearl dial.

ÂŁ6,000

04 Etername 05

Etername consistently produce exquisite one-of-akind pieces, and these jadecoloured, gold and diamond earrings are no exception.

POA

05 Shamballa

All laid-back glamour, Shamballa jewels are best worn stacked high. This coral bracelet with black diamonds and 18-carat rhodium-plated white gold is a neat counterpoint to formal evening wear.

From ÂŁ14,900

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Passion for precision. Valuation for materials. Fascination for technical perfection. Aesthetics of form and function. Intransigence of quality. Respect for values. Love for details. Watch winders from ORIGINT I MES 速. Developed by watch aficionados, made for watch aficionados.

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14.08.10 09:57 03/09/2012 16:18


Good times Words – Scott Manson

Pho

togra

phy -

Rahul S

ingh

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Good times frostoflondon.co.uk

Photography - Martin Heath

Keith Flint, iconic frontman for The Prodigy, on bikes, beats and beautiful watches

Q

I understand you’ve just returned from playing a festival in Serbia. How do you combine the rigours of tour life with the equally intense business of running and riding for Team Traction Control in the Hottrax Endurance Championship?

The last two years, since we set up the team, haven’t been too bad as the band has been in the studio most of that time. Obviously if big shows do come up, though, the band comes first and we will do them. We have three riders on the team so races are always covered too.

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Q

Where did your love of fast bikes spring from?

On a practical level, you get supercar performance at a fraction of the price. Also, when I was growing up, my two older brothers were always into bikes – one of them had the Suzuki GSX 1000, a proper muscle bike – and my younger brother had a dirt bike. So I was riding off-road long before I passed my test at 17. My motorbike test, that is. I didn’t pass my car test until I was 21. My mates and I were all bike nuts, so I never needed a car.

Q

Why did you decide to set up your own motorbike racing team?

I started it as a bit of fun but, at the beginning, a lack of preparation led to a few last-minute hitches. Obviously I’m asking the band to trust me with this project, and our gig insurance depends on me doing everything I can to ensure I don’t get hurt,

Photography - Mike Neale

As a vocalist for seminal band The Prodigy, Keith Flint is regarded as one of the most electrifying performers on the planet. He’s also an accomplished motorbike racer, managing and riding for Team Traction Control, which is part sponsored by Graham watches. Clearly, the passion for pushing things to extremes still burns strong…

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Photography - Mike Neale

so I quickly realised I had to take it seriously. I’m very professional in my music career, and I had to take the same approach with racing. We got a great rider, Ben Neaves, on board and sorted out sponsorship support – from there things have gone incredibly well. It’s worth pointing out, though, that this isn’t the same as when, say, some soap star decides he wants to be a musician or whatever. I am totally committed to racing.

Q

Yours seems to be an adrenaline charged life. Would you say enjoy pushing things to extremes?

It seems a bit wack to say ‘yes’. Like I’m the sort of guy who uses the word ‘rad’ a lot. Granted, the things that ignite me are edgy – I can’t see myself sitting on a riverbank quietly fishing, for example – but you have to understand that this doesn’t feel extreme to me. It’s about the skill of riding a bike fast – the art and craft of pushing it to the edge.

Q What’s been the most rewarding thing about running and riding for the team?

Well, we won the entire championship yesterday, and it’s my birthday today, so it doesn’t get much better than that. A year ago today we also won at Oulton Park, on a wet track, on one of Britain’s most challenging circuits. It’s incredible how far we’ve come in the two years since the team was formed.

Q

Can you tell us about any truly ‘heart in mouth’ moments you’ve had while riding for the team?

I’ve had three big crashes. As a rider, you know it’s not a case of if you come off, but when you come off. You’re going to part company with the bike at some point and when you do, it’s a stark reminder of the side of the sport that’s not so rosy. As a team boss, watching bikes crash can also be painful in a different way. You take great

care of them and try to make sure they are looking beautiful but you have to have a sense of emotional detachment when they return back to the paddock mangled from a crash. Endurance riding is about the team and morale is key. There’s no sense getting angry with the rider. You have to stay upbeat while still addressing any issues that caused the problem.

an event. He was surprised that I knew so much about Graham watches. But not as surprised as I was when he told me he loved our The Fat of the Land album. Anyway, we hit it off and they became a team sponsor and gave me the best watch I’ve ever owned, the Chronofighter Oversize Diver Deep Black. I get a lot of comments about it – it’s a fantastic looking piece.

Q

Q

Ha, no, Ben (Neaves) is the number one rider, so he has the latest model. All the bikes are identical though. I think being in a band helps you to be a good boss. You learn to make decisions in a pressured environment.

I’ve been in the band for 20 years, so I don’t really know any different. Besides, I don’t think of myself as being famous – you won’t see any of us falling out of Chinawhite or going on some crap reality TV show or popping up as a talking head to comment on something we know nothing about. The band has kept its mystique, credibility and edge by avoiding this side of fame.

As you’re the boss, do you get the best bike?

Q Talking of the band, you feel very

much like a tight knit collective. How has The Prodigy managed to remain together and stay friends for so long?

We’re all strong characters who have managed keep our own individual identities. A democracy makes wishy washy music – only those with the best ideas will hear their ideas realised on the final cut of the records.

Q The Prodigy is arguably the most

important band in dance music history. What’s been the secret of your success?

What do you miss about your life, pre-fame?

Q The festival season is almost at an end. What have been your highlights?

We curated a festival called Warriors Dance in Belgrade recently, which was fantastic. The best bit was right at the end, about 6.30am in the backstage dressing room area, when we had Skrillex and Caspa DJing back to back at our own private party.

We just make sure everything we do, whether it’s making music or the live shows, is absolutely banging. Liam (Howlett) is tenacious, professional and, although he’ll hate me saying this, is a genius when it comes to writing music. Nothing leaves the studio until it is perfect. Meanwhile (fellow band member) Maxim is an amazing thinker, a warrior with the heart of a lion. They are both an inspiration.

Q

Q

Q

Jerez in Spain would be great. It’s a Moto GP track, and one where rain is rare, plus it’s got a real flow to it. There’s a fast right hander on it, over a blind ridge, which is a really ballsy corner. I’d love to race at Suzuka too, because it’s such an iconic track.

Recognise and appreciate what you’ve got and give 110 per cent. When fans come up to me in the street I will always find time to speak to them because they are the people who support you and who are going home to play your album. I’ll never forget where I’ve come from and I can’t wait to see where I’m going next.

Where would you love to race, given the chance?

Q

How did the relationship with Graham watches come about?

I met Eric Loth, the founder of Graham, at

Your career has taken you all over the world, where is your favourite place?

I love England and all my friends are here, so I’ll never move. However, my wife is Japanese and Tokyo is a city I’ll revisit again and again. The people are polite and honest, the street fashions are insane and they build the best bikes on the planet. The uber modern feel of the city – like a Blade Runner set – is something that always excites me.

Do you have a life philosophy?

Keith Flint is a brand ambassador for Graham watches

graham-london.com, teamtractioncontrol.com

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14/09/2012 11:02


Devon Works Words – Scott Manson

From surfing to computing, America’s Pacific coast is the place to go for far-out ideas. As Devon’s mould-smashing timepieces show, watchmaking is no different

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Devon Works

alifornia runs on creativity. Home to Silicon Valley, the undisputed birthplace of the digital revolution, the Sunshine State has always been a magnet for artists, musicians and right-brain thinkers. It even claims the holy trinity of extreme sports – surfing, skateboarding and BMX – as its own. Put it this way – if it were a country, California would be the world’s ninth largest economy. California is a fitting home for Devon, one of the most cutting-edge watch brands on the planet. Led by entrepreneur Scott Devon and headquartered in Los Angeles, Devon Works is a design lab dedicated to creating innovative luxury products that exemplify the American spirit. Scott Devon’s right-hand man, company MD Ehren Bragg, concurs that the state is a great incubator of ideas. “California isn’t just a place on a map. It’s also a lifestyle and an inspiration,” he says. “It’s no coincidence that most major car manufacturers have design studios in Southern California.” Motoring is a subject close to Bragg’s heart: he worked for Ferrari and

Lamborghini, overseeing the latter’s sales for the US market, before joining Devon. “The customers I dealt with then are very similar to Devon’s: successful, intelligent people looking for cutting-edge product. People who want something that pushes the envelope.” Cars also played a part in Devon’s genesis. Its Devon GTX supercar, which was released in 2009 to widespread acclaim, combined luxury with a traditional American muscle car look. It went on to break the lap record at California’s renowned Laguna Seca raceway. Never one to remain in his comfort zone, Scott Devon then took the unprecedented step of designing and producing a watch like no other. On its release in 2010, the Devon Tread 1 stunned the watch industry, raising the hackles of traditionalists while thrilling those collectors who were looking for something truly unique. “A Devon timepiece is an eye-catcher,” says Bragg. “It’s very difficult to wear one without it being noticed and commented upon. We’ve had a number of our customers report that they get more comments on their Devon than they do on minuterepeaters which cost ten times the price.”

The magnificent watches combine the aesthetics of WWII aircraft cockpits with an internal array of four microstep motors. These drive an interwoven quartet of time belts that spin within the case to display the time. It’s powered by a lithium polymer rechargeable cell that is charged wirelessly, and the electric system that runs the belts is kept in tune using optical technology. Crucially, Devon is the only American manufacturer, other than RGM, that uses its own proprietary movement. It’s the deployment of a battery, though, that has the old guard of watchmakers

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(left, from top) Scott Devon, Ehren Bragg, Devon GTX supercar (below) The stunning Devon Tread 1

“Customers get more comments on their Devon than they do on minute-repeaters which cost ten times the price�

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Devon Works The Tread 1 Version F (below) and the limited edition Steampunk model (bottom)

grumbling. In a world where the art of the mechanical watchmaker is king, a timepiece powered by electricity gets short shrift. “Some people’s first reaction is, ‘Oh, it’s a quartz watch”. It’s not. It has a rechargeable battery but that’s because if it didn’t, it would have a 30-second power reserve,” laughs Bragg. “The tracks are an immense weight to push for a small battery. It’s what we’ve dubbed a mechanical hybrid watch.” It’s been a struggle to become accepted by much of the watchmaking fraternity, admits Bragg. Even recognition from their peers in 2010 – a nomination for the respected Gran Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the design and concept category – was something of a bittersweet affair. “The luxury watch industry is so insular and protective. They are jealous and wary of newcomers,” he says. “When we were nominated for the Gran Prix, a CEO from a prominent watch company stood up and

made a speech in French. Afterwards someone turned to us and said: ‘I’m sorry, he was so rude’. It turned out that he’d been telling the crowd that the watch industry was all about Switzerland and would always be so. Pretenders may come and go, he said, but Switzerland would reign supreme. It did take a little of the shine off our night.” Crucially, though, business is booming for Devon. The success of Tread 1 has ushered in Tread 2, a scaled-down version of its chunkier original model and featuring two belts and a chronograph, to be released early next year. And while the Tread 1 was priced at around £13,000, the Tread 2 will come in

“Imagine if the Tread 1 and an F-22 Raptor f ighter jet had a lovechild. That’s the Tread 3 – and it will be absolutely breathtaking” at £8,000. Before then, though, Devon fans can check out the newly-launched Steampunk model, a Tread 1 clad in tough bronze ‘body armour’ with heavy rivets and screws completing its 19th-century retro appeal. It’s a great example of old technology meeting new technology, and takes its inspiration from sources such as H. G. Wells’ The Time Machine, among others. Limited to just 150 pieces, the Steampunk retails at around £18,500 although, as Bragg points out, many watch fans initially think Devon timepieces cost a great deal more. “I think of our watches as pieces of relatively affordable art,” he says. “Most people assume our price point is around £250,000 to £300,000, because of the watch’s complexity.” The company’s creativity seemingly knows no bounds and plans are already in place for the next stage in Devon’s watchmaking evolution. “Just wait till you see the Tread 3,” says Bragg. “Imagine if the Tread 1 and an F-22 Raptor fighter jet had a lovechild. That’s the Tread 3 – and it will be absolutely breathtaking.” It may send the traditionalists running for the Swiss mountains but, clearly, there is a growing band of new watch collectors for whom Devon is the future. Brand new retro is here to stay.

devonworks.com

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12/09/2012 09:12 9/11/12 8:56 AM


Borgioni Words - Hannah Silver

The Family jewels

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Borgioni frostoflondon.co.uk

Borgioni is a new brand, but as its mother-daughter design team show, it’s a name full of heritage

he thought of working with your mother may not get everyone’s creative juices flowing, but for the mother and daughter team behind Los Angeles-based luxury jeweller Borgioni, it’s the secret of their success. Rhonda and Tiffany Bartolacci are a formidable partnership who each bring a different creative slant to their work. Incredibly, they also insist it’s a happy, friction-free process. “My mum’s a little bit out there,” Tiffany admits. “She’s rock and roll. Whereas I’m laid-back and more bohemian. We complement each other and it makes for a very cool mix.” This harmonious relationship has a family connection as its catalyst. Borgioni is Tiffany’s late grandmother’s maiden name, and the company was born in 2006 when the pair began resetting the jewels she’d left to them, so they could be worn in a more modern style. “We had a good time doing it, and a lot of people liked it and wanted to buy it,” says Tiffany. “We decided to do a line for fun and it went from there.” This modest statement underplays the huge popularity of the collection, which

instantly struck a chord with LA’s cognoscenti. Very early on, the Borgioni team received a call from superstar 1970s disco band Earth, Wind & Fire, who wanted to wear their pieces to the Grammy awards. It was the beginning of a celebrity love affair with Borgioni, and some of the biggest names in showbiz were soon seen stacking their bracelets high. Steven Tyler, Eva Mendes and Carmen Electra are just some of the names that regularly showcase their designs on the red carpet. “Brad Pitt owns our handcuffs, a staple piece in the line,” Tiffany says. “Heidi Klum, Miley Cyrus, Usher – they all love it. We also have a lot of businesspeople who are fans, which is great.” It’s rare that a brand appeals to such a diverse clientele, but the jewellery range is nothing if not eclectic. Rhonda and Tiffany are drawn to Buddhist and mystical influences, with their pieces featuring everything from religious symbols to ‘evil eyes’, skulls and crossbones, and animals such as spiders, frogs and monkeys. Diamonds also stud their work, with the duo championing black and brown stones long before these coloured gems enjoyed their recent surge in popularity. When the creative urge moves them, they will also make stunning one-offs. For Tiffany’s wedding, they crafted a rose cuff from diamonds and rubies in further tribute to Tiffany’s grandmother, whose middle

“She’s rock and roll. Whereas I’m laid-back and more bohemian. We complement each other and it makes for a very cool mix”

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Borgioni frostoflondon.co.uk

“Much of the line is meant to be stacked and layered and worn with anything else you have”

name was Rose. After winning jewellery awards and receiving a huge amount of press coverage, the cuff sold for around £30,000. “It was a great piece for us as it has lots of memories,” Tiffany says. “My grandmother had passed away before the wedding, so it was as if she was here with us.” This emotional connection with and burning passion for what they do is at the core of their philosophy. Their bigger pieces feel more like art, and contain painstaking carving and engraving. Unlike most fine jewellers though, most of their pieces are designed for everyday wear. Tiffany confirms: “Much of the line is meant to be stacked and layered and worn with anything else you have and everything you cherish. It all works best as a mix.” And while this mix has proved a winning recipe so far, the pair are looking for a change of direction for the maturing brand. “At the beginning we really went for the black gold look – a lot of dark skulls and gothic stylings,” says Tiffany. “Now, though, it’s lighter, we do more rose gold and incorporate a lot of different colours rather than keeping things so dark. It’s still edgy, but not as much as it was.” Mother and daughter differ over the details: “My mum’s on a darker path then me; she wears the edgier pieces while I prefer the lighter stuff, but it’s fun to blend it together.” The fact that their pieces are only available in fine jewellery and department stores, such as Neiman Marcus in the US, has given Borgioni a marked advantage when it comes to customers, with the financial crisis barely registering on their business. “It can be a tough time, but luckily the stores we’re in are pretty consistent, so we’ve been quite stable. It’s good for us, we’re grateful for everything.” There are no plans for their own store at the moment, but they are confident that the business will continue to grow. “We’d like to expand into the European market and have more of a presence in London,” Tiffany reveals. “That would be something we’d concentrate on.” Frost of London is one jeweller that’s spotted the appeal of Borgioni and, where they lead, others often follow. It won’t be long until this duo’s designs are also gracing the capital’s red carpet events. Clearly, the family that designs together, shines together.

In brief - Tiffany Bartolacci If you weren’t a jewellery designer, what do you think you would do?

That’s tough. I did go to law school but it’d probably still be something fabulous in fashion.

What watch do you wear?

I like to switch – I have a Rolex and a Bulgari.

What do you do when you are not working?

I just had a baby and it’s been fabulous – that takes up a lot of my time. We also love yoga, meeting up with friends and going for nice dinners.

How would you like to be remembered?

Both of us would like to be remembered as bringing something positive to somebody else’s life. We like to have fun and have a good energy.

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«Depuis 120 ans des générations d ’artisans animés de passion fabriquent à la main les souliers Edward Green»

crafted without compromise since 1890

London 75 Jermyn Street

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Paris 199 bis Bd. St-Germain

14/06/2012 09:56


Shoemakers Words – Hannah Silver

As the foundation of any outfit, shouldn’t your shoes be more, well, you? It’s time to go custom-made s every woman knows, you can tell a lot about a man by his shoes. The rest of him could be channelling a Don Draper level of dapperness, but if his feet are clad in a pair of scuffed, square-toed monstrosities, then the whole outfit is let down. It’s time to start controlling what your footwear is saying about you, and the best way of doing that is to go bespoke. Or, at least, made to measure. For the uninitiated, made to measure is extreme customisation – when a customer takes an existing style and selects the colour,

materials and details. Bespoke, on the other hand, is a far more involved (and expensive) process, with shoes made from scratch to a buyer’s specification. Measurements are taken, either traditionally or with foot scanning technology, and a pattern is then cut, tailored to fit, and personalised. This process could take several fittings, but the result is a unique pair of shoes that should last you for decades. Read on to discover the shoemakers that can help you put your best foot forward.

Last men standing

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This page: patterns become reality in the workshops of Foster & Son (top) and Edward Green Previous pages: craftsmen at Edward Green (left) and Scheer

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Shoemakers

Edward Green Established in Northampton in 1890 and now with stores in London and Paris, Edward Green has perfected the art of crafting Goodyear-welted shoes from high-quality calfskin. A company that values traditional methods, its made-to-measure service lets the buyer select the colour of calfskin or suede, width of welt or thickness of sole. The ready-to-wear collection is equally impressive, with stylish brogues in muted colours – produced in collaboration with British fashion house Hardy Amies – giving this brand a contemporary edge.

edwardgreen.com

Crockett & Jones Crockett & Jones is another company that can trace its origins to Northampton at the end of the 19th century. The area became a centre for the shoemaking industry because its wealth of oak forests provided bark that was considered the best tanning material of the time. Graced with royal patronage early on – George VI visited the factory to discover more about the process – the fifth generation of family members in charge of the business are still passionate about their shoes, with each pair taking eight weeks to make.

crockettandjones.com

Tricker’s Tricker’s is renowned for its heavy brogues and boots which are great about town but are also eminently suited to country weekends and shooting trips. As well as offering classic leather shoes, Tricker’s also crafts velvet slippers with motifs that can be stitched in either wool or gold wire, with popular choices including the customer’s initials or family crest. The company has been established for nearly 200 years and holds the royal warrant so, if you’d like to walk in footwear fit for a prince, look no further.

trickers.com

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Shoemakers

Himer & Himer Regarded by many as the best shoemaker in Germany, Himer & Himer shoes have been specially commissioned by luxury brands such as Bentley, among others. Most of its footwear is fashioned from buffalo, calf or lamb leather but bespoke creations have included more exotic materials, with stingray a surprisingly popular choice. As well as classic leather styles, Himer & Himer produces a variety of specialist golf, hiking and driving shoes. Quality is exceptionally high, with a pair expected to last around 20 years. Prices start at around £1,700.

himershoes.de

Aubercy The family-run Aubercy has been a jewel in shoemaking’s crown since it launched in 1935, standing out even among the fashion finery in its home city, Paris. There are only eight craftsmen in its workshops, all frighteningly passionate about their work. The calfskin used means the leather hasn’t had time to roughen, while the stitching of the sole and the welts (which form the spine of the shoe) are all sewn by hand. Customers placing an order are assured anything is possible and the company is happy to create completely new models if desired. It’s truly a labour of love, with one pair of shoes taking over a month to create and requiring almost 400 individual steps to reach its final perfect state. Little wonder, then, that a pair of Aubercy shoes can cost up to £1,800.

aubercy.com

James Taylor & Son James Taylor & Son says its use of hand-skived leather, stiffeners, toe puffs and insoles will make you forget you are wearing shoes at all. This is also down to the fitting, which uses a 3D foot-scanning system to make a precise digital cast of your foot. This is then transformed into a bespoke last using specialist CAD software (a computer system that designs three-dimensional products). The company favours soft, strong leathers, including whole calf- or kidskins, ensuring the finished items look traditional and timeless.

taylormadeshoes.co.uk

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12/09/2012 16:55


Car modification Words - Scott Manson

Mod my motor

Looking to make your motor truly stand out? You need the bespoke treatment, courtesy of some of the world’s best car modifiers Car modification has got a bad name. Blame it on myriad mindless car mod mags, blame it on the ‘garage tour’ sequence on MTV’s cribs, blame it, if you like, on the boogie. For anyone with taste, the idea of modifying their precious mprestige motor is something close to sacrilege. From the pointless, such as giant spoiler ‘wings’ that do nothing except weigh a car down to the ridiculous, like the speaker set you

Brabus

Since 1977, this high performance aftermarket tuning specialist has taken MercedesBenz cars and maximised their engine performance. More recently, Brabus has turned its attentions to Maybach and Smart vehicles. Besides custom tuning and engine upgrades, the

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can buy that mimics the sound of a roaring turbocharger and the just plain insane – Wyclef Jean’s Hummer H2 with a shark tank in the back is a case in point – this sort of automotive exhibitionism often leaves taste at the roadside. When it’s done properly, though, by reputable aftermarket operations, the results can be truly stunning. Here, then, are some of the most exciting car modification companies on the planet.

company also offers cosmetic changes such as low profile spoilers, bodykits, multi piece alloy wheels, 12 piston disc brakes and engine remapping. Brabus’s achievements has seen it hold several world records over the years.

brabus.com

21/09/2012 14:39


Twisted Performance

When it comes to enhancing Land Rover Defenders, Range Rovers, Discovery and Freelander vehicles, the Twisted team has over a decade’s experience in modifying diesel motors. The company’s experience in Land Rovers is evident, proven not only by the quality of the vehicle shown here, but by the fact that in 2009, the Twisted team held off various other respected Land Rover tuners to take the title of ‘World’s Fastest Land

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Rover’ – despite a self-imposed constraint of only using parts developed in-house. Look out for its Twisted Editions, beefy remixes of the Defender which come in various guises, including the stunning white Alpine version (below) which is complemented by black Nappa leather inside. GTI performance in a car that’s considered a lumbering workhorse – that’s the Twisted trademark.

twistedperformance.co.uk

21/09/2012 14:39


Car modification

Revere London

Audi, Bentley, BMW, Rolls Royce, Land Rover, Porsche and Mercedes owners looking to enhance their vehicles should check out this pre-eminent aftermarket specialist, From custom painted wheels to aero kits to electronic lowering and much more, the company offers a rigorous and uncompromising approach to design and styling.

Their obsession with detail is even apparent in the stitching used in the upholstery, created the old-fashioned way using original Durkopp Adler sewing machines from Germany. The company now has a range of enhancements ready for the Range Rover Evoque, including dynamic leather sports seats and bespoke wheel options.

reverelondon.com

Overfinch

Purveyor of restyled and distinctive Land Rovers since 1975, Overfinch is a credit to British engineering and craftsmanship. By using an exhilarating mix of the latest technology and precision engineering, it delivers sympathetic visual enhancements and unsurpassed performance. The company’s latest Sport GTS-X is a case in point. Based on the Range Rover Sport 5.0 V8 Supercharged, it’s Overfinch’s most powerful Range Rover to date thanks to a remapped ECU and tweaks to the induction system for greater boost from the supercharger. A package of stunning interior and exterior enhancements see this gargantuan machine command a price of £147,000.

overfinch.com

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Car modification

Kahn Design

What started as a humble Bradford-based wheel design service has since blossomed into a respected car modification service, with 80 staff serving clients all over the world. Kahn Design buys and modifies cars to order, favouring Range Rovers, Jeeps, Bugattis and top-of-the-range Audis. The company has an ongoing partnership with renowned engine builder Cosworth and counts Saudi royalty and premiership footballers among its customers. Business is clearly booming as, in 2008, owner Khan Afzal bought the ‘F1’ number plate for £460,000 and put it on his own white Bugatti Veyron, one of two models he owns.

kahndesign.com

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21/09/2012 14:42


Jump the Queue

Fast track to the slopes this winter with Victor and The Oxford Ski Company. The Oxford Ski Company provides the best luxury ski chalets and hotels in the world and Victor will get you there faster and smarter - get an extra half day at either end of your holiday. Victor is the world’s first marketplace for private jet travel with the largest contracted fleet of aircraft in Europe, reaching destinations that commercial aircraft cannot fly. The Oxford Ski Company provides unrivalled levels of expertise on the world’s most luxurious ski resorts – their tailored concierge service will ensure an exceptional experience. Private flight and accommodation packages available – request a quote today.

www.flyvictor.com – www.oxfordski.com Victor is approved by the CAA for ATOL License 10378

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12/09/2012 14:48


Ski special Words - Ross Trigg

Courchevel

calling

Gastronomy and great skiing makes for a heady mix in one of France’s finest resorts very fibre of my being tells me I’ve just made a massive mistake. I’ve flown in the face of a family value that ‘s been passed down for generations. The scene is playing over and over in my mind and I can almost hear the ghosts of my ancestors tutting their disapproval. “Would you like anything from the cheese board sir?” Our charming waitress in Hotel La Chabichou’s flagship two Michelin starredrestaurant poses the question, while wheeling in a trolley groaning with a vast selection of mouth watering local cheeses. “Wow, Thank you, but I really can’t fit another bite in, I’ll have to pass.” I say. Oh my. There they were. Four little words that would shame my family. ‘I’ll have to pass’. Lets hope my father doesn’t read this feature. Never refuse a cheeseboard – it’s virtually a family motto.

On this occasion, after sampling nine courses of chef Michel Rochedy’s wonderfully imaginative cuisine, I think even the smallest morsel of cheese might cause total gastronomic meltdown This was, quite simply, the most incredible dining experience I have ever had. Better still, the inventive, theatrical cooking was complemented by the views from the restaurant. Gazing down on the beautiful resort of Courchevel 1850, our senses felt heightened, giving every delicious mouthful an added piquancy. Any meal beginning with foie gras of duck is a winning opener. This version came with smoked eel and quince jelly and was followed by ‘Veal from the Dordogne’, which blew us away. Prepared in three different ways – fillet roasted with caramelised onions, veal sweetbreads studded with truffles and a salad of calf ’s tongue – this was truly confident, accomplished cooking.

After a night spent sleeping in what is surely the most comfortable bed in the resort, we picked up our ski gear from the hotel’s equipment store and headed out to meet our instructors. The good news for them was that I am a total beginner and my girlfriend Ellie hasn’t strapped on skis on for a decade. It’s to their eternal credit that they remained cheery on hearing this. Thankfully, Courchevel caters for all levels of skier. With a 50/50 split between easy (green and blue) and advanced (red and black) runs, it gives a newbie like me ample opportunity to explore. And explore we did. One on one lessons from two of the nicest gents on the slopes made the morning whiz past. We soon got in the groove and headed to the dizzy heights of the peaks. I was hooked. The clean, crisp air, the obligatory drink half way down the slopes – this is how every day should be. We wound down from the excitement of the slopes with a visit to La Chabichou’s state of

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The grand facade and charming bedrooms of Hotel La Chabichou

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Ski special Words - Ross Trigg

the art multi-sensory spa. Comprising three different areas and offering such delights as a Turkish bath, salt cave and polar bath; our full body massages left us exhilarated and refreshed for a night of Alpine roistering. After two nights spent at the charming La Chabichou, it was time to move on. No need to worry about how we would get our luggage down the slopes into Courchevel 1650. We simply skied off in the morning and it appeared at Hotel La Portetta later that day. Now that’s service. We were blessed with fine weather for the entire trip, with not a cloud to be seen across Les Trois Vallees for four days. The resort had also received a record snowfall over the winter months, meaning the slopes were still velvety smooth. By the end of day three, we were taking the more challenging blue slopes in our stride and eying up some red action the following day. Its easy this skiing lark.

The handsome exterior and interior of La Portetta (below and right)

“Skiing straight on to the terrace, we had a drink in our hands before we’d even taken off our boots”

How to do it

Powder White has a portfolio of 46 chalets, 25 hotels and 90 apartment types in 11 snowsure resorts across the French, Swiss and Austrian Alps. Powder White can arrange tailor-made ski packages and offers two nights at Hotel Chabichou in Courchevel 1850 from €288 per person based on two sharing on a bed and breakfast basis and one night at Le Portetta in Courchevel from €185 per person based on two sharing on a half-board basis. Return Powder White airport transfers cost from €130 per person.

La Portetta – our final destination – is a charming ski lodge style hotel conveniently situated at the base of our final run. Skiing straight on to the terrace, we had a drink in our hands before we’d even taken off our boots. The accommodation was similarly impressive, featuring open fires in the lobby area, huge animal heads hanging on the walls, exposed wood and an overall ambience of calming luxury. After another relaxing massage and a spectacular meal we were faced with a classic ski dilemma. Should we wander out into the resort for an evening of dancing and drinking or spend the rest of the night lolling about in the hotel? Hmmm, hot chocolate in hand and hotel slippers on, we deliberated for all of five seconds. We’d leave the revelling to the resort’s noisy youngsters. In truth, a four day holiday here is too short. Courchevel offers so much, particularly for luxury lovers, that a week-long trip is recommended. A word to the wise though. Unless you are prepared to ski hard every day, burning off every last calorie, there is every chance that you’ll return home considerably larger than when you left. A few extra pounds, though, is a small price to pay for a taste of Michelin-starred winter paradise.

Two hours of private ski lessons with Magic in Motion cost from €85 per person.

www.magicinmotion.co.uk Three days ski and boot hire from Ski Higher costs from €75 per person.

www.skihigher.com

A three-day lift pass for Les 3 Vallées starts from €155. For more information on Courchevel visit.

www.courchnet.com

www.powderwhite.com

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Luxury chalets rentals in Courchevel 1850 with a five star service that matches attention with discretion

+33(0) 662 998 029 info@courchevelprestigechalets.com www.courchevelprestigechalets.com

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13/09/2012 14:29


Ski special Words - Charlotte Ricca-Smith

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21/09/2012 10:53


A change in life situation can mean a change in your ski holidays, but it needn’t mean skimping on the luxury – or the fun Back in the mists of time, my ski holidays consisted of blasting down couloirs before retiring to a piste-side restaurant for a boozy lunch. However, like for many of you, I suspect, things have changed things a little with the arrival of children. I’m not a worrier. However, the moment my husband and I decided to take our two children on a snowboarding holiday, I became a neurotic wreck. How would they cope with the creche? Would our four-year-old take to skiing? Would we get any time on the mountain? Would they be too cold? And, crucially, how would we squeeze in that Michelin-starred lunch? You get my drift. Venture Ski was the company brave enough to take us on for the week and they couldn’t have been more helpful in trying to allay my fears and answer my questions. They have ten catered chalets in Sainte-Foy-Tarentaise in the French Alps, a small resort with incredible

off-piste and no crowds. In addition to the luxury accommodation, there’s a private spa with pool, and an English-run creche. (I’m a Francophile, but when it comes to kids the French aren’t known for their sympathetic approach, so the prospect of smiley faces and a sensitive ethos gave me hope.) Our chalet was a stylish mix of traditional and modern, with stunning views of the mountains through floor-to-ceiling windows. The only downside was the steep climb up what felt like 100 steps when carrying a wriggling one-year-old and a snowboard. Still, it all helped build up an appetite for the incredible food. The three-course meals served each night wouldn’t look out of place in a five-star hotel restaurant, and breakfasts were hearty enough to keep us going until afternoon tea and home-made cake. All we had to do was get our aching selves out of the door and on to the slopes – via the

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Ski special

creche, of course, which our children settled into surprisingly quickly. (It wasn’t all smooth schussing. There was a fair amount of tears at first and you need the skin of a rhino to head off to play on the mountain, leaving your child in a weeping heap, without wondering if it’s all worth it. I’m still not sure.) The great thing about Sainte-Foy, however, aside from the views, is that everything you need is nearby. It’s a tiny hamlet that was turned into a ski station in 1990, but you won’t find any modern buildings – everything is built in a traditional Savoyard style, to create a postcard resort. So while it’s lacking in apres-ski and there are only four chairlifts, it’s ideal for families. Even if you’re at 2,620m at the top of the Marquise chair you’re never more than 15 minutes from the village, and your children. The resort really comes into its own when fresh snow reveals huge bowls of safe off-piste and challenging tree runs. There are three official off-piste areas, but our favourite was the ‘powder paddock’, under the Marquise chair. The other aim of our holiday (other than eating too much and playing in powder) was to get our four-year-old daughter on skis. We arrived midweek, so she couldn’t join the ski

schools, but private tuition proved a little intense for someone so young. Her instructor, Valentine from Evolution2, couldn’t have been lovelier, but our little one found it hard going. At the end of her first session she took her boots off and announced, “I am never wearing those things again.” Fair enough. They are ridiculously uncomfortable. We coaxed her back out the next day, and on day three the offer of a ride on a chairlift proved too much to resist. She then skied back down with Valentine and a big smile on her face, and wanted to do it all over again with mum and dad. Result! Riding down the mountain with my daughter is a memory I will treasure, and it made up for all the stress. The only problem was that we were on snowboards, which left us fairly useless on the steeper slopes. My husband opted to walk, holding Mabel in one hand and his board in the other. Big mistake. One minute I was asking, “Are you sure that’s a good idea?” and the next Mabel was down, and my husband’s board was making a quick exit off the nearest red run and into a tree. The damage was irreparable, as was that to my husband’s heart. He loved that board. Maybe he should ski next time…

“Fresh snow is when this resort comes into its own, with huge bowls of safe off-piste and challenging tree runs” Way to go

A week’s holiday with Venture Ski starts at £780 for adults and £595 for children under 13. Under-twos go free. This includes cooked breakfasts, three-course meals on six evenings with wine or beer, afternoon tea and cake, use of the private spa and pool, ski hosting and a day trip to nearby resorts. Transfers are £95 a person, and the creche £360 a child for a week. For more information visit

www.ventureski.co.uk

Evolution2 offers group and private lessons, as well as off-piste guiding. For more information visit

www.evolution2.com

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Residence Alex is an exclusive development in an exceptional location. This high-class residential development is being built right in the heart of Verbier. The apartment of your dreams in a true oasis of tranquility and comfort, just a stone’s throw from the Place Centrale. Enjoy all the advantages of its extraordinary, privileged location (close to shops, restaurants and public transport) while avoiding the frenetic pace of resort life. Each apartment has its very own private relaxation area with fitness room and Turkish bath… … and so that Residence Alex can really call itself a temple of Epicureanism, the residents have a swimming pool for their exclusive use.

www.residence-alex.ch

Agence Bruchez & Gaillard SA, Rue de Médran 23, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland Tel: +41 (0)27 771 40 50 info@bruchez-gaillard.ch www.bruchez-gaillard.ch

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30/08/2012 15:43


Life at the top Fancy an apres-ski in your own private nightclub? These French fancies are the boltholes to book for the ski break of a lifetime France has no shortage of quality accommodation for those heading out on a winter sports break. How to choose, though, from those that are merely good to the places that are truly magnificent? From

chalets whose swimming pools feature waterfalls to those that boast their own private nightclub, Tempus’ ski-loving specialists have selected some of their favourite slope-side boutique boltholes.

Chamonix Chalet Cragganmore

Floor to ceiling glass windows ensure that Chalet Cragganmore is one of the most beautifully-lit boutique retreats we’ve seen. It’s well-situated in the Les Praz area, with stunning views of the Dru, Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc all visible from the hot tub. The chalet boasts a striking design throughout – it’s featured in several style and design magazines – and it’s just 10 minutes from the resort’s helicopter pad, should you be looking to arrive in style.

blueandwhitelocations.com Val Thorens Altapura

Altapura is Europe’s highest ski resort, meaning this fivestar hotel is well-placed to give you direct access to the pistes from its ski room. The Nordic-inspired decor of wood, stone and glass is a perfect complement to the high-tech amenities within, with a sports coach providing morning tips via your Mac Mini that, by night, will also tell you the in-house DJ’s playlist and evening menu.

sibuethotels-spa.com

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Courchevel 1850 Chalet Pearl

It’s the extras that turn a good week away into an unforgettable one, and Chalet Pearl has them in spades. A swimming pool with waterfalls, private cinema, on-site masseuse and beautiful fully-stocked bar are just some of the impressive features of this well-placed chalet. It’s a snowball’s throw from the Bellecôte piste and a four-minute chauffeured drive from the town centre. The huge 700m² space is decorated in traditional Alpine fashion, but contemporary touches make it both stylish and comfortable.

firefly-collection.com

21/09/2012 10:22


Ski chalets Words - Hannah Silver

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Ski chalets Val d’Isère White Pearl

White Pearl is one of the most elegant chalets in Val d’Isère and boasts a truly sophisticated interior. Built by Philippe Capezzone, owner and designer of the celebrated Hotel Kilmandjaro in Courchevel, the five bedroom chalet features a hammam, open fireplace and sun terrace, plus it has all the extras you would expect, including swimming pool (with jet stream) and a home cinema.

luxurychaletcollection.com

Courchevel Les Gentaines

Les Gentaines has arguably the best location in Courchevel. Buried in a snowy hamlet off the main road, the chalet is still just five minutes walk from Courchevel’s centre and boasts ski-in ski-out access. Despite its rustic feel, it boasts upto-the-minute technology and ultramodern spa facilities.

courchevelprestigechalets.com

Edelweiss Courchevel 1850

Chamonix Chalet Aiguilles

oxfordski.com

dynamiclives.com

There’s a wealth of top-notch places to stay in Courchevel, but particularly worthy of your attention is the Edelweiss chalet found next to the Bellecoste piste. It sleeps 16 and has two impressive master suites of 100m² each, plus a waterfall swimming pool and its very own nightclub, saving revellers that two-minute walk into town.

Boasting a luxury spa, vast living areas and a sunken Jacuzzi and outdoor hot tub, the Chalet Aiguilles is one of the most luxurious chalets in Chamonix Valley. Its location next to a woodland stream sets the tone for a tranquil break, complemented by a large cinema room and massage rooms that give stunning views of the forest. A well stocked wine cellar is also a welcome addition on cold, wintery nights.

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Ski special

Tignes

Courchevel

The most exclusive resort in France is much loved for good reason. Courchevel’s pistes might only reach an average height of 2,740m, but there is easy access to nearly 200 ski lifts, meaning varied skiing is guaranteed. Of course, it’s the apres-ski that really impresses, with Courchevel 1850 offering some of the most exclusive bars and restaurants in France, including two Michelinstarred dining rooms. courchevel.com

Sharing some of its terrain with neighbouring Val d’Isère, Tignes’ lofty pistes are open for an impressive 10 months of the year and glacier skiing is possible from the end of November. In terms of snow reliability, then, this is the safest bet in France. Come lunchtime, hipsters head to the famous slope-side restaurant La Folie Douce where, from 3-5pm, a DJ plays live while hundreds of revellers party in the snow. It’s an unforgettable sight and a must-do for every visitor. tignes.co.uk

Chamonix

Val d’Isère

Val d’Isère is a firm favourite with Brits (one third of its visitors are Britons) who love its wealth of fine chalets and immaculate pistes. As you’d expect from a resort that has hosted the World Ski Championship and the Winter Olympics, the skiing is superb. Private jet owners also appreciate its proximity to Chambery airport, saving them a long transfer from Geneva or Lyon. Lively nightlife makes this popular with a younger crowd. valdisere.com

Skiers of all skill levels will be kept happy with the variety of runs in this world-class resort although, in truth, this is an expert’s paradise as it offers some of the most extreme off-piste skiing in the Alps. The 20km off-piste Vallee Blanche route is the one to check. For fine dining, look no further than the Michelinstarred Le Bistrot at Morgane’s hotel. chamonix.com

Les Deux Alpes

The French resort with the second-highest peaks – topping out at 3,600m – is also a safe bet for those seeking somewhere snow-sure. For experts it has links to the dramatic off-piste area of La Grave, while the sheer size of the area means there are countless choices when it comes to apres-ski. Indeed, its nightlife is famously some of the most frenetic in France. 2alpesnet.com

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Firefly COLLECTION

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Chalet Zermatt Peak Zermatt

It’s what the term

wow-factor was invented for

The Firefly Collection is a hand-picked portfolio of the finest luxury villas and ski chalets worldwide. The Firefly Collection combines the privacy of having your own luxury villa or ski chalet together with the exceptional personal service you would expect from a 5 star hotel. That could include your own private chef to create delicious gourmet experiences on your private terrace, or maybe a masseuse to soothe those aching muscles after a day on the pistes.

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19/09/2012 09:23 18/9/12 18:09:11


Ski gear Words - Jason Moran

This season’s best ski gear Nowhere is the white heat of technology more apparent than in the fast-developing area of ski equipment. If you think that your five-year-old skis still cut it, you’d better take a look at the following offerings. All-mountain and freeride skis are where it’s at this season, with all the big brands jumping on the ‘rocker’ bandwagon. For the layman, this means that the tip and tail are turned up to aid ‘floatation’ in powder.

In terms of boots, there are some exciting new custom-fit technologies hitting the market, while outerwear continues to be dominated by styles fashioned in primary colours. The overriding trend, however, is functionality: one- or twoway zippers, adjustable/detachable hoods and anatomically formed arms and knees. Goggles, meanwhile, benefit from frameless technology and increased field-of-vision.

Atomic Alibi skis Fall-Line, the well-respected ski journal, voted this its 2012/13 Ski of the Year. It‘s an all-mountain, rockered ski, that’s powerful in the deep stuff. For a fun, poppy ride, this is practically piste-perfect. £550, www.atomic.com Salomon X Max 120 boots Ideal for accomplished skiers, this boot features new ‘Twinframe’ tech. It combines rigid material in the upper shell for precision, with soft material wrapped around the lower shell, for comfort. £360, www.salomon.com

Haglöfs Vassi jacket Made with three-layer Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric, this jacket’s specs impress. Two-way, watertight main zipper with storm flaps, adjustable, helmetcompatible hood and removable powder skirt are among the highlights. £500, www.haglofs.com

Oakley Airbrake goggles These goggles come with two lenses to help the wearer adapt to changing light conditions. Thanks to clever Switchlock technology (a simple latchsystem), they are easily interchangeable. The frame is also nice and lightweight. £180, www.oakley.com

Norrøna Lofoten Gore-Tex Pro pants These durable and highly breathable pants’ Aramid lower leg reinforcement ensure they can withstand years of abuse. They also have fully sealed seams, an integrated zip-off bib and a 3/4 side zipper. £399, www.norrona.com

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Chamonix, Courchevel 1850, Crans-Montana, Davos, Megeve, Meribel, St. Moritz, Val d’Isere, Verbier, Zermatt

Kings Avenue Sàrl 14, Rue de Rhône, CH-1204 Genève Switzerland +41 22 819 94 07 www.kingsavenue.com contact@kingsavenue.com

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Health and fitness

Power Lunch

Canary Wharf’s stunning Reebok Gym is where you’ll find financial high fliers pushing it to the limit. Scott Manson signs up for some punishment.

Life is full of disconcerting moments. Turning a blind corner at speed on a ski slope to find yourself facing a steep mogulridden black run, taking a sip of gin and tonic while on holiday only to discover the barman has free-poured what feels like half a litre of spirits in there and, in the case of my first session at London’s Reebok Gym, discovering my personal trainer is known as ‘The Punisher’. “You’re being trained by Randy?” asked the receptionist with a grin, followed by a sharp intake of breath. This did not bode well. My fitness levels are less than impressive and it looked like clenched teeth heroism was to be the order of the day for the next six weeks of twice weekly sessions. While I waited for Randy to arrive, I took in the incredible surroundings of this state-of-the-art gym. Offering classes from kendo to kickboxing via basketball and all points in between, this flagship Reebok gym in the heart of Canary wharf is a vast

and impressive beast. Occupying 100,000 square feet over three floors, with a huge indoor climbing wall rising through two of those floors, it’s little wonder that it was voted Britain’s best gym by Men’s Health magazine. It’s in the area of personal training, though, where this gym really excels. For proof, I had to look no further than the finely sculpted individuals who were being put through their paces by the dozens of fitness coaches who prowl the floors like drill sergeants. There’s no delicate way of putting this. The training dished out by Randy was tough. Tougher than any gym class I’ve ever done. I’ve never shouted in pain while lifting weights before, but I was pretty much doing it from minute one of every class. To be fair, Randy asked me how hard he should ‘beast’ me, and I told him to push me as hard as possible. The trainers do work to whatever level you’re comfortable with. The exercises, mostly done on high-end power lifter’s training machines, became very

familiar to me. The first two weeks were spent on fat-cutting and toning exercises, while the last four weeks saw us hitting the weights a little more to increase muscle mass. The main exercises we used were squats (for quadriceps, hamstrings and glutes - legs and lower back), deadlifts (as for squats, but including upper back), bench press (chest and arms), pull ups/pull downs, rows (both back and biceps), kettle bell swings (for back, arms and legs) and dumbell press variations (chest, shoulders and triceps). After eight weeks I no longer dreaded my sessions with The Punisher. I’d dropped half a stone and seen muscles, which hadn’t been visible since I was a sporty teenager, pop up everywhere. Reebok Gym may not have a corporate slogan but I’m willing to provide one right here: Yes it hurts, yes it works.

Membership is discounted for length or large groups but the basic rate is £110 per month. reebokclub.co.uk

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Health and fitness

Wellbeing

Looking for something to enhance your mind, body and soul? Here’s our pick of the best

Kinesis Personal

The Kinesis Personal is a clever piece of kit that can be built into a wall and provides exercise in four key areas: endurance, balance, strength and flexibility. Virtually flat and 3.5 square metres in size, it can be utilised for over 200 resistance-based exercises using grips, cables and weight stacks. The machine also comes in a range of finishes – oak, leather, polished steel or dazzling 24-carat gold leaf.

technogym.com

Chuan Spa at The Langham

Already loved for its central location and award-winning stylish interior, the Chuan Spa at London’s Langham hotel is upgrading its treatments thanks to a new partnership with skincare brand Oskia. It focuses on using natural products that contain a high level of nutrients, making for greater health benefits. The signature intense deep tissue body massage and detoxifying face and body treatment promises to unlock tension, release toxins and leave you feeling blissful.

chuanspa.co.uk

Vaishaly at the Four Seasons, Park Lane

Vaishaly is a renowned skin care expert and super-facialist, commonly acknowledged as the best in the business and favoured by celebrities. Famed for a holistic approach, her signature facial uses gentle microdermabrasion and a high frequency tool that dries and closes pores after extraction. Waiting lists are usually around three months, so book now for a glowing complexion in time for those Christmas parties.

fourseasons.com/london/spa

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A perfect workout. A perfect day.

Precor has long provided premium gym equipment to the finest health and fitness clubs, hotels and spas worldwide. Now, for the first time, this amazing gym equipment is available to buy online, in the UK. Only the best for your private gym. Start your new life today:

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20/08/2012 14:15


Superyachts Words – Ellie Brade

The lavish, 61m Diamonds Are Forever, a Bondfan’s dream

The

greatest show on earth

Shopping for a 007-style superyacht? The Monaco Yacht Show has a licence to thrill The Principality of Monaco, tax haven for some of the world’s wealthiest people, and famous for its casinos, F1 racing and royal family, is also known as a mecca for superyachts. Every September sees the boat industry decamp to the principality for what is the biggest and most prestigious event in the superyachting calendar: the Monaco Yacht Show.

Anyone in the market for a large yacht was at this year’s show and with 30,000 visitors attending, it was fun to play to play a game of ‘spot the oligarch’ when we were there. You can easily see who the potential yacht owners might be because they had great shoes, a stratospherically expensive watch and, more often than not, something young, blonde and attractive on the other arm.

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Superyachts

Over four days, 500 companies showcased the latest and greatest yachts and all manner of gadgets, toys and tenders to try and tempt new or potential owners into joining that elite superyacht owner’s club of around 5,000 individuals. The show saw Monaco’s Port Hercules heaving with over 100 large-scale vessels, nearly 50 of which were making their debut. Among the yachts on display this year was the 88.5m Nirvana, built by Dutch yard Oceanco, which accommodates 12 guests and 26 crew. Nirvana’s features include a 3D cinema, a 7.5m oval pool with whirlpools and panoramic views. If that wasn’t enough, she also hosts a vivarium filled with reptiles including water dragons and bearded lizards. Very Bond villain. More 007-related goings-on surrounded the debut of the 61m Diamonds Are Forever. Named by her Bond-loving owner, she features two panoramic master suites and a top deck with full views 12m above sea level. Her classic interior, by Evan K. Marshall, uses fine Italian marble, onyx, madrone burl wood, gold leaf, mother of pearl, and Marieux crystal.

Also on show was the 72m Stella Maris, built by Viareggio SuperYachts, which launched in August. She features staggered internal decks, including a private owner’s deck. In the owner’s cabin and main saloons are spectacular walls of glass. Elsewhere, a Mediterranean-themed sundeck is complemented by a water level ‘beach club’ area. These are just three of the yachts that welcomed visitors up their passerelles during the show, and with so many yachts on display even the most ardent yachthunter was spoiled for choice. Look out for these yachts, and many others that featured in the show, cruising around various Caribbean hotspots this winter.

Photography - Viareggio SuperYachts & Benetti

“she also hosts a vivarium f illed with reptiles including water dragons and bearded lizards. Very Bond villain

Top Right: The Stella Maris – reassuringly expensive Right: Nirvana’s onboard luxuries include a 3D cinema

Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence, part of The Superyacht Group

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Motoring Words – Kyle Fortune

Flagship Ferrari The Italian stallion’s latest supercar pulls off the impossible

Price £240,000 Performance 0 to 62mph (100km/h) in 3.1 seconds Top speed 211mph+ (340km/h+) Engine 6.3-litre V12 petrol Transmission 7-speed dual-clutch automatic, rear-wheel drive Construction aluminium spaceframe Supercars, by virtue of their names, should be super; incredible even. These days, it’s a task that’s made more difficult when the brisker versions of common family cars can match the performance of supercars of old. Inevitably the supercar genre has reacted, to the point where even Ferrari’s ‘baby’ car – the 458 Italia – offers quite ludicrous performance. And that’s a problem for the company’s V12-engined flagship: the new F12 needed to deliver the nearimpossible to justify its existence. It does. Consider for a moment its power output. The 6.3-litre V12 in the F12 produces 730bhp. You read that right. Allow the rev-counter’s

needle to sweep to its upper reaches and you’ll not just be fired forward at eye-widening velocity, but your ears will be treated to a bellowing, fizzing metallic crescendo that’s like nothing else. The numbers say the F12 will reach 62mph in just 3.1 seconds and on to over 211mph – and you’ll believe that when behind the wheel. And what a busy wheel it is. Not just because Ferrari has most of the controls on or around it, but because of the sharpness of the steering. It’s unerringly accurate and quick, giving the F12 remarkable agility for something taking up so much space. Ferrari’s engineers have been clever with the packaging too, managing to squeeze all that power into a car that’s no bigger than the one it replaces. Significantly faster, but no more difficult to drive, Ferrari’s expertise in F1 is evident in everything from that mighty engine, to the paddle-shifted gearbox, aerodynamics, suspension and driver control systems. The 458 was considered a landmark Ferrari, while the recent FF blazed its own trail with four-wheel drive, four seats and hatchback-like practicality. Incredibly, the F12 tops all of them, providing a fitting flagship model to a phenomenal range.

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Grooming

A smooth, glowing complexion is as important as a quality watch and a sharp haircut, but it’s a part of the grooming process that is often neglected. Our resident grooming expert, Carmelo Guastella, managing director of Melogy in London’s St Pancras Hotel, reveals the best ways to keep skin radiant

Here we glow

Moisturise “For men, there’s nothing worse then having irritated, dry skin, aggravated by shaving. Moisturising twice a day is essential to combat this, especially at night, as your pores open. Moisturisers with SPF in them are a must in the summer, as the sun really is one of the most damaging things for your skin – it makes it like sandpaper. Again, Decléor’s Men’s Collection is great for aftershave, anti-aging face cream and eye gel. Eye products can’t work miracles but can mask dark circles. In truth, though, all eyes need is for you to drink lots of water and get enough sleep.” decleor.co.uk

Make-up “Men are using make-up now, but very subtly. A lot of men tend to ask their partners to help them as they need the make-up to be invisible. Concealers are a good option – Mac has great ones – while using bronzer gives a bit of colour. There’s no stigma attached to self-tanning either and, again, Décleor is my brand of choice. It offers a range to suit any skin colour which, crucially, won’t make you look orange. Apply two or three times a week for a healthy glow that says ‘spring weekend in Cannes’, as opposed to ‘two weeks in Magaluf ’.” maccosmetics.co.uk

Exfoliate “This is such an important step - there’s no point in using expensive moisturisers without it, as you’re just putting the cream on dead cells. You can get very gentle exfoliators that can be used every day, or an exfoliating scrub that should be used twice a week. I recommend Decléor’s Men’s Collection – as well as removing dead skin cells, it reduces fine lines.” decleor.co.uk

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30/08/2012 14:29


Technology Words – Alex Pell

Panasonic TH-65VX300

At a time when TVs are increasingly crammed full of fripperies, it’s refreshing to laud the merits of one plainly created to excite those prepared to pay for superb video playback. This 65in 3D plasma display is, in some ways, a surprisingly basic beast. It boasts neither speakers nor a built-in TV tuner, meaning that the set relies entirely on the video source it’s fed. Nevertheless, this

The television will be revolutionised

Tomorrow’s TV technology today – live in your living room

Panasonic outguns every rival in terms of just about any performance yardstick you care to consider. It will reveal uncanny amounts of detail in the murkiest of shadows, unleash hugely vibrant colours and handle the most frenetic screen action with utter aplomb. The TH-65VX300 is equally adept at reproducing conventional or 3D footage, yet perhaps its greatest achievement is the way that even the lowliest standard-definition material remains eminently watchable. This is billed as the professional’s choice and for once these kind of superlatives are apposite. Want the best TV screen that money can buy? This is it.

£8,000, panasonic.co.uk

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Sony KDL-55HX853

Samsung UE55ES8000

In a comeback of Olympian proportions, Sony has released a deeply impressive new range of flatscreens after a couple of years in the technological doldrums. Yes, this 55in Freeview HD 3D TV does lack some of Samsung’s more esoteric bells and whistles, while its remote control and menus are somewhat unexciting. It also performs notably better with HD video sources than it does with standard-definition fare. But, despite these gripes, the stunningly-designed KDL-55HX853 recreates some of the most detailed and natural-looking footage you will ever see on a TV and is hugely impressive overall. Factor in the cost and this is little short of a bargain.

If you want to impress visitors, the impossibly-thin bezel and vivid colourreproduction of Samsung’s flagship TV will certainly do the job. Perhaps too much so – as with many Samsung models, the settings of this 55in screen need to be manually toned down from the ‘stun’ level it is shipped with. Like all the TVs shown here (other than the Panasonic) it features an Edge LEDbacklit design. Presumably to up the technological ante, Samsung throws in an unrivalled gamut of toys, including gesture or voice control, plus a posh remote for when you get bored with those gimmicks. Despite the distractions, it delivers a remarkable performance to match the classy design – as long as you’re happy to tinker with those settings.

£1,500, sony.co.uk

£2,500, samsung.com/uk

Bang & Olufsen BeoVision 7-40

Fans of Bang & Olufsen are often chided for paying silly money to own objet d’art that masquerade as cutting-edge tech. Even so, the BeoVision 7-40, which has been revamped this year, is far from shabby in either respect. Lovers of ostentatious engineering will squeal with delight at the (optional) motorised pedestal base that enables you to adjust the viewing angle without spilling your cocktail. The Danish design gurus have also squeezed a Blu-ray player into the chassis and there is a whole phalanx of exotic matching B&O speakers you can buy. At the heart of this set resides a classy 40in screen, which is just as well, given its admission fee. This TV may not be superior to its rivals shown here, but it’s not embarrassed to be in their company.

Around £10,000, bang-olufsen.com

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Moments in time

Becker stuns Wimbledon An little-known, flamboyantly-dressed teenager took the tennis world by surprise when he stormed to a Grand Slam victory over Kevin Curren one sunny July day in 1985. At 17, Boris Becker was the youngest-ever winner at Wimbledon and one whose energetic style – flinging himself into every shot and diving headfirst at volleys – saw one commentator liken him to “an enthusiastic puppy”. Interestingly, Becker’s exuberance didn’t extend to his taste in watches. His record-breaking match saw him sport an elegant Ebel Sport Classic Gent with quartz movement, a watch whose Swiss efficiency was complemented by Becker’s clinical dispatch of his opponent.

ebel.com

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Model: A N NA W E B B Photographer: RUA N VA N D E R SA N D E 000_Ad.indd 1

19/09/2012 09:25


108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

EPIC II COLLECTION JACOB & CO. Aut o mat i c Movement C hro nograp h 47mm St a in less S teel

000_Ad.indd 1 4 tempus-Ads.indd

jacobandco.com

+1.212.719.5887 48 East 57th Street New York, NY

05/09/2012 14:53 9/4/12 4:07 PM


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