ISSUE
Ladoire / Diver’s watches / Amir Khan exclusive / Superyachts / McLaren MP4-12C / Jason of Beverly Hills / Indie watchmakers / Ferrari California / John Carew / Alternative investments
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Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.
+44 (0) 1256 862 068
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info@corumwatches.co.uk
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www.corum.ch
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Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.
108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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www.shamballajewels.com
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Explore the Energy of Creation
Limited Edition Raw black diamond, Colombian Emeralds and 18K Rhodium plated white gold
108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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Turbine Xl, A1050/1 Technology of the Double Rotor.
Made by movement
www.perrelet.com
108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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Foreword
issue
four Contributors
From the editor Editor
Scott Manson
scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director
Ross Trigg
ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer
Hannah Silver
hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director
Mark Edwards
mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager
Tom Pettit
t.pettit@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4689 Financial Director
Stephen Jones
Managing Director
Jay Boisvert
Tempus is published monthly by Aston Greenlake Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er. TEL: 020 3617 4688
“When I first became a man,” goes the saying, “I put away childish things.” Of course, growing up isn’t just about leaving behind youthful pursuits. There are many other markers of maturity, statements that say you are comfortable with your life, and have achieved a certain degree of success. A good job, a healthy bank balance, a grand house – lifestyle testaments all – but arguably two of the most stylish options are to drive a fantastic car and wear a serious timepiece on your wrist. And this is where the latest issue of Tempus comes in. In this, our biggest issue to date, we take a road trip in the beautiful Ferrari California, narrowly avoiding a hefty speeding fine in the process, and reveal the best diver’s watches on the market. Elsewhere, our travel writers are despatched to discover Europe’s finest hotel suites and our superyacht specialist highlights the large-scale yachts that will be making a splash this summer. Top premiership and international footballer John Carew also drops in for a fabulous fashion shoot, we get the lowdown on favourite watches from four timepiece aficionados and our resident grooming expert highlights the hairstyles that every dapper gent should be sporting this season. Finally, we go under-the-radar to discover the world’s best independent watchmakers. Super-exclusive, with a price tag to match, the watches that these small-scale manufacturers produce represent some of the greatest horological craftsmanship on the planet. Enjoy the issue.
Ken Kessler One of the world’s finest watch journalists, Ken Kessler reveals his selection of the best watches for diving on page 38.
Timothy Barber As the editor of 00/24 Watchworld and a timepiece specialist for the likes of City AM newspaper, Tim is perfectly placed to reveal some of the most exciting independent watchmakers scattered across the globe. Read his report on page 82.
Kyle Fortune He calls it work, others might disagree. Editor of carenthusiast.com and contributing to publications worldwide, he reports on the latest McLaren supercar on page 100. Work? We don’t think so.
Scott Manson Editor
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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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Contents
62
Cover
Ladoire - Black Widow; Mr Green
Photography: Adam Dawe
Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Michael Leckie michaelleckie.co.uk Bianca Pereira makeupbybianca.com Josephine Tagesson & Alexandra Domecq
Inside issue four
Take Me There
12
Luxury Briefing
15
Tempus in Cannes
20
Brief Encounters
22
Food & Drink
25
The Word
29
Objects of Desire
34
Coming Correct
38
Neck and neck
44
Dark Arts
48
Witness the Fitness
50
Ferrari California
56
Striker pose
62
Rebel Yell
70
What’s the Alternative?
76
Hidden Treasures
82
On My Watch
88
Lord of the Rings
94
Power Up
100
Class Rebels
103
The Sound of Now
110
Let’s Do Launch
113
Suite dreams
116
Moments in Time
122
Enjoy an undersea adventure in Bora Bora Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all Spend a week in Cannes hitting the festival parties? We don’t mind if we do… Our pick of the best jewellery and timepieces going under the hammer Where to eat, drink and be merry Ken Kessler on fakes; Timothy Barber on design; Lauren Steventon on adventure Unashamed opulence from Jason of Beverly Hills What watch to wear when. This month: diving This season’s most stylish ties Luxury accessories head to the dark side Amir Khan reveals the secrets of his success We unleash the beast on the winding roads of the West Country Top footballer John Carew models fabulous fashion and accessories Lionel Ladoire on his uncompromising attitude to watch design We reveal some of the more quirky ways to expand your portfolio Discover the world’s best independent watchmakers Four timepiece aficionados tell us why they love their watches Top jeweller Theo Fennell explains why he will never be the king of bling McLaren’s MP4-12C takes centre stage Men’s grooming gets a new twist The hottest headphones The latest large scale yachts on the market The world’s best hotel suites Andy Warhol and his Cartier Tank 11
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Take me there Ask any scuba diver to name their dream dive destination, and it’s a safe bet that the tropical island of Bora Bora will be near the top of the list. Famed for its aqua-centric luxury resorts, this French Polynesian jewel offers unrivalled viewing of some of the planet’s most impressive (and healthiest) coral formations, plus marine life such as hammerhead sharks, manta rays and humpback whales, all visible through crystal clear water. For a once-in-a-lifetime dive holiday, though, you’ll need a similarly impressive diver’s watch. Turn to page 38 to discover the world’s best deep water luxury timepieces...
tahiti-tourisme.co.uk
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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk
H24 COLLECTION JACOB & CO.
jacobandco.com
212.719.5887 48 East 57th Street New York, NY
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Luxury briefing
Because the best things in life aren’t free
Lasting image Ilott vintage In a post-mechanical age it’s easy to forget just how intricate and beautifully engineered cameras once were. A passion for these mid-20th century cameras has resulted in one company, Ilott Vintage, carefully refurbishing
a select set of rangefinder cameras. Leathers are replaced with premium wood veneers, rangefinder optics are calibrated and apertures and shutter blades are cleaned to restore forgotten cameras to their former glory. Cameras
are fully mechanical, incorporating clockwork mechanisms, tension springs and tiny cogs. The original Canon Canonet with a Belgian walnut veneer front (above) is our pick for a truly classic piece. ilottvintage.com
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Luxury briefing
Coupe de theatre BMW Four-door coupe. There’s no such thing, given a coupe by definition is a two-door model. That was until Mercedes-Benz tore up convention with its original CLS in 2004, with such success that the four-door coupe label is now being stuck on to anything that’s got a slightly more rakish profile than a conventional saloon. Unsurprisingly, among the best is BMW’s version, the 6 Series Gran Coupe. It may have taken its time in coming, but when it looks this good who cares? Expect to see them populating the expensive parts of town around you very soon. The M-Sport version, at £94,000, is Tempus’s model of choice.
bmw.co.uk
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First in line Bell & Ross Beautifully simple, Bell & Ross’s WW1 Heure Sautante is a masterclass in the use of bold, clean lines. Translated as ‘jumping hour’, the unusual complication features a rotating disc on which the hours are printed, with the digits jumping as soon as the hour changes. The platinum version has an opaline grey and silver dial in 18-carat gold with hand-applied guilloche decoration. With only 25 pieces available, exclusivity is assured.
bellandross.com
Diamond life Girard-Perregaux The appropriately titled Cat’s Eye reflects light from 150 emerald-cut precious stones. The 102 diamonds on the dial are applied using traditional techniques which involve painstakingly cutting and calibrating the stones individually. A simple satin strap keeps it elegant, although it’s framed with 13 baguette-cut diamonds, naturally.
girard-perregaux.com
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Luxury briefing
The art of leverage Graham The vintage theme of the Graham Chronofighter 1695 makes this timepiece a rather debonair choice. A true gentleman’s watch, it is inspired by the technological developments during the 1930s golden years of aviation and motor racing, most obviously in its external stopwatch lever. Other carefully observed retro details, including the domed dial and crisp, clean face, sit nicely with deluxe features such as the pink gold caseback, elaborately hand-engraved with an illustration of the Royal Observatory in Greenwich.
graham-london.com
Cooler king
Hide and chic
Aston Martin
William & Son
Aston Martin’s luxury brand of form and function is given full rein in its wildly extravagant new silver and giftware range. Our favourite piece is this 24-carat gold-plated bottle cooler, which will put a £40,000 dent in your wallet. Beneath the gilded – and insulated - exterior, a carbon-fibre inner layer prevents condensation forming, ensuring your champagne remains perfectly cool. Apart from anything else, it’s a very pretty talking point.
A good travel bag must be a hardy piece that can withstand the rigours of travel, while remaining elegant enough to ensure your stylish arrival. This William & Son bag strikes the perfect balance between the two. Sure to be one of the smartest pieces of hand luggage in Heathrow, it’s hand-crafted in conker-coloured bridle hide with cream cotton drill lining. The company offers customers the option of hot stamping their leather goods, meaning they can be easily tweaked to suit your own personal requirements.
grantmacdonald.com/astonmartin
williamandson.com
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NeroUno Red Gold Fountain Pen Ref. ISNRC_AC
The Writing Room, Harrods, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL, T: (0207) 730.1234 ~ Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, T: (0207) 318.3140 The Pen Shop, 199 Regent Street, London W1B 4LZ, T: (0207) 734.4088 ~ The Pen Shop, 8-9 Leadenhall Market, Fenchurch Street, London EC3V 1LR T: (0207) 621.0959 Penfriend, 34 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly, London W1J 0QA, T: (0207) 499.6337 ~ Websters Pen Shops , Bluewater,Croydon,Bromley,Brighton, T: (01322) 661545
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Tempus in Cannes
Party time The Tempus team touched down in Cannes in May for a week of business and pleasure at the Cannes Film Festival. Among the highlights was The House of Luxury and Tempus magazine cocktail evening, held at the exclusive Villa L’Albri in partnership with Zeptair and Mammoth Productions. Chivas whisky also treated editor Scott Manson to a red carpet experience that culminated in a huge party at the beach-based Chivas House.
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Auction watch Words – Hannah Silver
Brief encounters Three of the finest pieces coming up at the auction houses. Be prepared to move fast…
Fellows
This Master Compressor Geographic watch, crafted in 18-carat rose gold, is a stone-cold classic from JaegerLeCoultre. A muted charcoal-grey dial emphasises brilliantly luminous hour markers and date and second time-zone dials, while the brown alligator strap is the perfect finish for this handsome piece.
Estimated at £6,000 to £8,000. The watch sale is on 12 July. fellows.co.uk
Bonhams
This century-old seed pearl, sapphire and diamond sautoir from Cartier is dated from between 1910 and 1917. A classic from the early days of the jazz era, the stunning piece is made up of rows of seed pearls connected with single-cut diamonds and calibre-cut sapphires, while suspended from the seed pearl rope are rose-cut diamonds mounted in platinum. This is a rare chance to purchase a piece which has been in the same family since 1950.
Estimated at £50,000 - £70,000. The fine jewellery sale is on 19 September. bonhams.com
Watches of Knightsbridge
A Rolex is always a popular piece at an auction and this 18-carat solid gold Oyster promises to be a highlight. The Perpetual Daytona Cosmograph features a white dial with raised gilt Arabic numerals and triple register with gilt rings. Not yet ten years old, this timepiece still has its original crocodile strap and gold flip-lock clasp, making it a very wise investment.
Estimated at £8,500 to £10,500. The modern and vintage timepieces sale is on 14 July. watchesofknightsbridge.com
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TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL Luxury leather goods and accessories hand crafted in the United Kingdom
Canvas and Leather Bags for the Elegant Traveller www.ettinger.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616
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M ESURE ET DÉMESURE *
TONDA HEMISPHERES Rose gold Automatic movement Dual time zone indication Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland
* EXACT AND EXULTANT
www.parmigiani.ch
LONDON ARIJE | ASPREY | HARRODS FINE WATCH & JEWELLERY ROOM YORK HARPERS CHELTENHAM BEARDS
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PARMIGIANI • Tonda Hémisphères • Format: 240x300 mm • Magazine: Tempus (GB) • Calitho 05-12-74775 • Edition: 06.12
Food & Drink
Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens an early age. Mum always used to say, to keep your husband happy, you have to be a good chef. My husband is a very happy man!
London’s dining scene I’m lucky
in that my work has taken me all over the world. I’ve just flown in from Shanghai, where I was demonstrating Thai cooking, and I’m off to Chicago soon to do the same. Whenever I’m in London, though, I’m taken to the best new restaurants. All-time favourites are Nobu and Hakkasan. Not just for the food, which is amazing, but for the atmosphere and style of the dining rooms too.
epicuriosity
Nooror Somany Steppe, founder of the internationally renowned Blue Elephant group of Thai restaurants, which recently moved its London outpost from Fulham to the riverside location of Imperial Wharf, reveals her recipe for success.
Signature dish I have a couple My philosophy Cooking must come I am particularly proud of: my
from your heart – only then can you cook well. I teach students and always tell them they don’t need to slavishly follow a recipe. Meals should be to their taste, so it becomes an individual creation.
aubergine salad with truffle oil and grilled scallops, and foie gras with tamarind sauce, which is a great east-west fusion.
The secret of great Thai food Number one is traditional ingredients: kaffir All about me I learned to cook from lime leaves, Thai basil, lemongrass, fish sauce and so on. Chefs also my mum and my sister. When I need to respect the flavour balance was young I helped my mother in the kitchen, pounding ingredients at the heart of the cuisine – I call with a pestle and mortar. My sister them the six spirits of taste: herby, salty, sweet, spicy, creamy and used to cook and sell rice and curry in the local market, so I was sour. Recognise and adjust these surrounded by fantastic food from until you have the perfect mix.
La Porte des Indes In a London dining scene beset with moody minimalism, the old-school La Porte des Indes is a feast for the senses. With its art, antiques, marble staircase, tiger rugs, nine-metre waterfall and ceiling domes, it’s a true statement restaurant. Once ensconced within its two floors of opulence tucked behind Marble Arch, diners can enjoy food with roots in the former French colony of Pondicherry: the Porte des Indes is as far from your standard British curry house as it’s possible to get. Crab malabar and parsee fish were ideal starters: the former spiked with mustard, turmeric and curry leaves and presented in its shell, the latter a masterclass in the
delicate cooking of sole. A shahi thali is the perfect way of sampling several dishes from the huge menu, while the cassoulet de fruits de mer offered an interesting take on a bouillabaise. This rich broth, loaded with fish and shellfish, had been simmered with local vindai’ spices and complemented by lime rice. This a grand restaurant that deserves to be talked of in the same breath as other London temples of Indian gastronomy such as Cinnamon Club or Quilon. Better still, the massive menu means we have barely scratched the surface. In other words, we will be back.
laportedesindes.com
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Food & Drink
Weird wines
There was a time when wine Three of the best Wine 1 Before China, Lafite came from the Mediterranean invested in Argentina (Caro), and nowhere much else. Sure, Languedoc (d’Aussieres) and barbarians from the Mongols to Chile (Los Vascos). You can still buy the 2007 Grande Reserve the Highlands had a toenailfrom Vascos: a £13 steal. Great curling brew of some kind, but Tuesday night wine. wine as we know and love it was lafite.com Wine 2 Château Lafite limited in scope and domain. Rothschild’s 1st cru classé is With changing tastes and a sure-fire investment. Go for technological know-how, the 2008 (mine went up 300% however, wine can now be grown in four days after its release) and if you keep it for 30+ years almost anywhere. the hefty price tag will seem a mere snip (the 1959 is now Cold, wet Canada produces £3,700 a bottle). Berry Bros & world-class eiswein, while Rudd are selling it for £1,500 England has proven the many a bottle but you can get six for £3,700 if you go through BBX, doubters wrong by producing, their brokering service. seemingly without the aid of bbr.com/fine-wine/bbx sunshine, some truly great Wine 3 You read about it first in the holy books – wine from wines and fizz. Golan Heights winery. The most stunning ‘weird’ wine the Galilee is terrific, Yarden’s is Chatemp, a Thai white wine cabernet sauvignon is good but the chardonnay (£18) is that is produced from vines excellent. A talking point at any grown on barges in the Chao dinner party. golanwines.co.il Phraya river. Because they use the Buddhist calendar, this year the vintage will be a wonderfully futuristic 2556. Over in China, Château Lafite is building its latest overseas winery, replicating Bordeaux in coastal Penglai to satisfy Chinese demand. This £10m gamble will, knowing the Lafite stable, produce thoroughbreds for years to come. Words - Peter Dean
Sake No Hana First, a confession. I am an unashamed sushi snob. The last time I was in New York I queued for an hour for the city’s hippest backstreet sushi joint, simply because I’d seen a tweet that said they’d just taken delivery of a prime batch of o-toro tuna. For the uninitiated, this is the fattiest cut of the fish, taken from its belly, which literally melts in the mouth. It is hideously expensive, but any sushi fan should try it at least once. Which leads us to the raw fish temple that is Sake No Hana. It’s in London’s St James’s area, in a building that formerly housed the frankly awful Shumi, an unhappy marriage of Italian and Japanese cuisine. Under the stewardship of Alan Yau, however, and recently acquired by the Hakkasan group, the site has become one of the leading lights of the London scene. From the ceiling’s lattice of wooden beams to the low-slung ‘well’ style seating which virtually demands you play footsie, it’s easy to see why the place is a hit with the glitzy Euro crowd. The menu follows the modern Japanese structure, starting with small plates and working through sashimi to grilled, via deep-fried and braised to sushi. Hit follows hit, from snow crab tempura, with its gossamer-thin batter, to an umami-rich aged beef sirloin, served with sautéed wild mushrooms and a mooli ponzu sauce. The sashimi was similarly sublime. Gorgeous slices of salmon and yellowtail, served at the perfect temperature – not too cold – and delivering that clean, protein hit that’s the hallmark of high quality. Reviewed by Scott Manson;
sakenohana.com
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“The Key to your World”
Shawish jewellery gives you access to the London Games and includes unique packages from a global concierge and lifestyle management company.
Luxury USB keys available exclusively through Frost of London & The House Of Luxury
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The Word
Ken Kessler Why fakes are for phoneys The first time I ever set foot in Hong Kong, around 1990, was around the time the Chinese government attempted to get tough on watch counterfeiting. Photos in the press showed steamrollers crushing thousands of bogus Cartiers and Rolexes, with smiling police acting as if they’d licked the problem on behalf of the Swiss. I arrived on a scalding hot August day that found me drenched with sweat seconds after stepping off the plane. Yet within the hour I would be standing in the middle of a fake watch factory, just off the Nathan Road – Hong Kong’s Oxford Street. So much for the war against counterfeits. The sight that greeted me was a family who could have served as a poster for Unicef: everyone assembling fakes, from a four-year-old up to grandma and grandpa. I saw mock Rolexes and Cartiers, as expected, plus fakes of fashion brand watches. Quartz fashion crud! It begged the question: why fake a watch that only cost £99 in real form? It confirmed my misanthropic world view, that people are fundamentally mean. Yes, even 20 years ago, the world was awash with fakes, mainly shabby copies of Rolexes that wouldn’t fool even the most bewildered tourist, as well as the nascent beginnings of copies of other makes. My last visit to Hong Kong, six or seven years ago, showed that the authorities had not only given up fighting the counterfeiters, the villains themselves were producing the stuff with infinitely more professionalism. I went into a mainstream department store/market. No back alleys, no forbidding staircase behind a dodgy restaurant. This was wide open. I saw fake Breitlings, IWCs, Audemars, Pateks, Mullers. And so many Panerais that I suspect the copies outnumbered real ones 10-1. What was so frightening was the perceived quality. Some were so accurate that, as one veteran watchmaker told me, “I’d have to take it apart to be sure.” The most expensive Panerai copies actually contained proper Unitas movements, as found in the genuine item. The price difference was enough to tempt any low-rent wannabe: $300 was all the vendor asked for the Unitasequipped watch. The movement is worth more than that; the real Panerai ten times that.
Ken Kessler is a watch expert and journalist
Who buys this stuff? Forget Liz Taylor’s valid excuse of wearing replicas of her gems in public while the real ones reside in a safe. The only person who would buy fake anything is the covetous sort who wants what is beyond his or her means, but who lacks enough self-respect to care about authenticity, or the initiative to earn the money to buy the genuine article. It doesn’t occur to them that they’re perpetrating a sham. Do they really feel that they’re impressing someone with a copy? Even fake orgasms are more legitimate. Ignoring the broader implications of buying fakes – the criminal aspects of counterfeiting – is impossible. A copy watch is as illegal as drug-dealing, if less likely to lead to death or brain damage. They’re supported by organised crime and protectionism on a government level. The value is enormous, and all of it illegal. So a word to anyone who likes watches but can’t afford that Blancpain or Vacheron: you’re better off with a genuine Swatch, Casio or Hamilton, or anything else that costs the same or less than a modern fake because they’re real. Anything else is phoney. Including the wearer.
Illustration - Ross Trigg
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Illustration - Ross Trigg
Here’s the proposition you often hear from people who don’t own watches: there’s little point in putting one on your wrist when you’re surrounded by so many digital devices that can tell you the time. If you’re a ‘watch person’ you’ll be practised at wheeling out counter-arguments to show that watches are about a lot more than mere function, for heaven’s sake. Style, status, culture, history, technical interest and plenty of other themes come into play – function is just one factor, and it’s a sliding scale. For instance, I’ll bet good money that the majority of watchwearers do in fact use them for timekeeping, whether they sport a £25 Swatch or a six-figure Jacob & Co – glancing at your wrist simply is considerably less bother than reaching into a pocket or bag for your phone. But I’ll also wager that very few people who own a chronograph ever activate it to time anything. And there isn’t a pilot in the world these days who uses a mechanical pilot’s watch to calculate distances and fuel consumption. That doesn’t mean a pilot’s watch isn’t a deeply satisfying thing to own, or that a chronograph doesn’t seem that bit groovier with its busy design and suggestion of sport and action. Like a car with a top speed of 200mph, it’s good to know the power’s there even if you never use it. What I have been wondering, though, is just how useful a date display is. Well obviously it’s useful, sort of, but is it necessary? It was in the 1960s and 1970s that simple date windows became
commonplace in watch faces, and so they’ve remained. They’re standard issue on plenty of basic movements, while Rolex and some other brands emphasise the date by putting a socking great bubble in the crystal to magnify it. Recently I’ve seen a few modern versions of vintage watches – Baume & Mercier’s otherwise fantastic Capeland Flyback Chronograph is a case in point – with a date window inserted into a dial design where originally there was none. Often it’s at that awkward four o’clock point, putting it on a slant, and often – as with the Capeland – it’s too small to read but just big enough to disrupt the harmony of the design. So why? It’s different to the way in which a watch is still useful for timekeeping – most of the time you need the date you really will be sitting at your computer screen. And anyway, unless you’re lucky enough to own a watch with an annual or perpetual calendar – in which case, I grant you, the technical cool is easy justification for the display – your watch probably frequently displays the wrong date. Altering it every month, or correcting it every time you put a watch on after it’s had down time and run out of power, is often too much fiddle. I’d prefer it if a few more watches, particularly chronographs and other pieces where there’s already plenty going on in the dial, left the date off. Even in the complicated world of watchmaking – actually, especially in the complicated world of watchmaking – simplicity really can be a virtue.
Timothy Barber avoiding the dating minefield
Timothy Barber is the editor of 00/24 WatchWorld magazine
The Word
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Illustration - Ross Trigg
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.” It’s a line often attributed to Mark Twain, and goes on to suggest that we “throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” Penned by a literary genius or not, it’s sound advice. So why are so many of us so lazy when we travel, taking virtually the same trip every year? Whether it’s hanging out at the same Ibiza beach club or skiing down the identical stretch of the Alps, we are often creatively bankrupt when it comes to planning a holiday. Part of the problem is the need for today’s tourists to recreate abroad exactly the creature comforts they have at home. Nowhere is this more apparent than those luxury resorts that pride themselves on providing the same bed linen in every city, the same art on the walls and the same room-service food. Even the greeting at the reception desk doesn’t vary. The thrill of the unexpected – one of the key reasons for travelling – is nowhere to be seen. Yet, we live in a time when it has never been easier to experience all the cultural novelty we cold wish for. Luxury travel companies can provide something different, more adventurous, experiential and authentic. They do all the hard work, you enjoy the experience. Black Tomato, for example, specialists in ‘tailor-made authentic Lauren Steventon is a travel writer
experiences’, has recently launched Epic Tomato, a tour agency that offers challenging trips such as 20 days in the barely explored mountains and western provinces of Papua New Guinea, or journeys along the White Nile in Uganda by foot, horse, bicycle and kayak – a voyage following in the trails of Churchill and Theodore Roosevelt. I’m not suggesting we have to pack our rucksacks and go back to basics to truly experience a destination. Unlike in the era of Winston and Ted’s excellent adventures, luxury and exploration are happy bedfellows in 2012, with plenty of top-end hotels offering exciting and enticing locations and activities. Four Seasons, for example, has just announced its World of Wonder programme, which enables guests to tour tea plantations by bike, assist in archaeological excavations or read a script on stage with a Broadway cast. This year top-end boutique hotels have popped up in some of the most unlikely places, from Ecuador and Panama to the Congo and Cambodia. Even Antarctica is no longer inaccessible, with a slew of new cruises taking travellers almost literally to the end of the earth. In all of these hotels, accommodation, service and design are not sacrificed, but are combined with a new take on luxury: private guides, expert-led tours or lectures, local interaction or unique wildlife or cultural experiences all capped with a session in the spa and an evening at a fine-dining restaurant. They are responding to the demand of a new breed of top-end traveller, one for whom an authentic and interesting experience is as important as an on-site butler and pillow menu. These adventurers don’t want to sacrifice quality or comfort, but are willing to skip extraneous trappings for a unique trip that will stay with them forever. So, if the realm of the explorer is within easy (and comfortable) reach, why aren’t more travellers taking advantage of it? A trip doesn’t even need to be a near-the-knuckle test of your comfort zone. Yes, sailing the Panama canal or staying at a luxury jungle camp are fantastic, but truffle-hunting in Alba, mask-making in Venice or joining a float at the Rio carnival are equally rewarding. True travel is about discovering the mystery and magic of a destination, indulging in the unique experiences that it offers, whether that is close to home or half way across the planet. Then, rather than returning and bragging about how a hotel in Paris ordered in sushi from your favourite restaurant in Japan, you will have some real stories on which to dine out.
Lauren Steventon choose your own adventure
The Word
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Gold and diamonds, from 570ÂŁ - www.messika-paris.com
Tempus_MESSIKA 11/05/12 11:56 Page1
Move Collection
108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF Tel : 020 3372 0108
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Objects of desire frostof london.co.uk
Jason of Beverly Hills Unashamedly opulent jewellery brand Jason of Beverly Hills is best known for its stunning one-of-a-kind diamond creations for the likes of Michael Jackson, Jennifer Lopez, Tom Cruise and Rihanna. Now focusing on developing lines for the public, stunning pieces include this black diamond and ruby skull chain which
_01 Black diamond
brings a touch of quirkiness to an otherwise classically luxe piece. Men’s accessories, too, combine the classic with the modern. Diamond and gold lapel accents come in a multitude of colour combinations while diamond badges channel the brand’s infamously decadent style.
and ruby skull chain £21,000
_02 Gold and diamond arm band £1,000 _03 Gold and
diamond cufflinks £4,900
frostoflondon.co.uk
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_04 Black diamond tuxedo studs £4,900
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ALL DESIGNS © THEO FENNELL
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THEO FENNELL at FROST OF LONDON 108 NEW BOND STREET LONDON
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Coming correct
Under pressure In the second of our series helping you select the right timepiece for every occasion, Ken Kessler discovers the hidden depths of the best luxury diver’s watches
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I
Coming correct
f any single quality separates watches worn strictly for dress from the rest, it may be water resistance. You do not, for example, anticipate a dunking when you’re wearing black tie (though that depends on the company you keep: even weddings can get out of hand, especially if there is a swimming pool nearby). But rare are watches that won’t withstand a little bit of unexpected dampness. Any watch enthusiast will tell you that moisture is as dangerous for the health of your mechanical wristwatch as is the failure to have it serviced regularly. But note that most watch brands use the term water-resistant rather than waterproof. The latter implies than no moisture whatsoever will enter the case. If it does, and it happens to lead to the failure of a diving watch, and the diver runs out of air because of it, the watch company could be legally responsible. Terms defining water-resistance now have specific meanings, with the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) defining what is required to describe a watch as suitable for anything from a quick dip in a pool to professional mixed-gas diving. Water-resistant is usually applied to watches safe from moisture from 3atm (3 atmospheric bars of pressure, about 30 metres underwater),
“ You don’t anticipate a dunking when you’re in black tie – depending on the company you keep”
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greenwich
TB88
EDITION HAND-CRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND Arnold & Son Manual movement AS5003 Two barrels, 100-hour power reserve True Beat Seconds, Breguet Spring See-through caseback. 100 feet (30 meters) water resistant Available in rose gold or stainless steel
108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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Coming correct
up to 20atm. While all are acceptable for watersports, the ISO does not consider them suitable for diving. Above that is what used to be called waterproof, but which the ISO now terms diver’s watches. These must survive submersion for extended periods and – depending on the rating in atmospheres or metres – are suitable for specific types of diving. If you’re a belts-and-braces sort, then only consider diving watches rated at 300+ metres, which is good enough for saturation diving. Truly paranoid? Hublot’s Oceanographic 4000 M and the latest Rolex SeaDweller DeepSea are watches that match the depth capabilities of submarines. What effect this has on your choice of diving watch, beyond the possible aesthetic flexibility of buying one sleek enough to wear on land, depends on the seriousness of your needs. For many collectors and enthusiasts, actual diving plays no role whatsoever in their usage – in the same way that many pilot watches are sold to those who will never handle a joystick connected to anything other than a gaming PC. Modern diving watches were defined in 1953, almost exactly 60 years ago, when Blancpain and Rolex almost simultaneously brought out, respectively, the Fifty Fathoms and the Submariner. As if to acknowledge the era that kicked off the phenomenon, retro is big in the diving watch sector: replicas of the early models with new specifications and movements abound, including the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, the Longines Professional
Diver, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea and a number of classic Panerais in the brand’s iconic Historic collections. Common to all serious diving watches are rotating bezels to show the elapsed time in a dive, or more precisely, the remaining air in one’s tanks; high-visibility helium valves to equalise the pressure inside the case when decompressing; adjustable straps or bracelets that can fit over the sleeve of a wetsuit and other functions. Of late, some companies, such as JaegerLeCoultre with their Master Compressor Diving Pro, are even equipping watches with depth gauges. Companies such as Corum, which specialise in watches for yacht timing, ensure that their Admiral’s Cup timepieces are immune to the ravages of H20, thanks to screw-back cases and ratings to 3atm. Diving watches based on military concepts, such as U-Boat’s models, enhance their ruggedness by adding separate crown protection. And the best thing about such watches is that – unlike modern divers’ electronic wrist computers – there are no batteries to run out during a dive. Whatever diving watch you choose, from the discreet to the macho, always remember one thing: a diving watch’s water resistance depends entirely on the condition of the gaskets in the case. So, if diving is your preferred sport, accept nothing less than factory-authorised overhauls, otherwise you run the risk of your next dive being the most expensive one you’ll ever do.
From top: Hublot King Power Alinghi 4000; Corum Admiral’s Cup 50 LHS; JaegerLeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Pro
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Substance
Neck and neck
01 Turnbull & Asser
The ties vying to take the title of this season’s most stylish
Herringbone spot tie in English silk
£85 turnbullandasser.com
02 Budd
Silk spot knitted tie
£55 buddshirts.co.uk
03 Drake’s
Untipped woven grenadine silk in royal with tartan check
£105 drakes-london.com
04 Emma Willis Sky-blue cashmere, handmade in London
£120 emmawillis.com
05 Gieves & Hawkes
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Light blue silk with small geometric print
02
£221 gievesandhawkes.com
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Substance
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Dark arts Exquisite accessories worth making a deal with the devil for
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01 Jason of Beverly Hills
04 Jason of Beverly Hills
£7,680
£6,450
18ct black gold scorpion with black diamonds
02 Borgioni
18ct black gold, 1.15ct diamond dragon bangle
£6,900
05 Theo Fennell 18ct white gold, 3.63ct white diamonds, 6.40ct black diamonds skeleton snake large pendant
03 deLaCour
£32,450
£28,000
£3,852
Saqrono ego carbon rose gold limited edition 2/88
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18ct black gold black diamond bullet cufflinks
18k black gold 0.80ct white diamonds, 22in chain
05
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Olympic silver medallist at 17, world champion at 22 and responsible for some of the most explosive boxing the sport has ever seen, 25-year-old Amir Khan is a force to be reckoned with. But has he ever tackled the raging bull that is a Tempus interview? He has now‌
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Good times Words – Scott Manson
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Q
Q
Hard work is the key. You need to have talent too, of course, but all the talent in the world is useless unless you put the work in. I’ve met dozens of fighters over the years who had natural ability but they just haven’t worked hard enough to make the most of it. I always said I would work harder than any opponent, and that’s what’s given me the extra edge.
Ah, well, Manny [Pacquiao], is a stablemate – we’re both trained by Freddie Roach – a sparring partner and a good friend, so I wouldn’t want to step on any toes by taking him on. Mayweather, though, I’d like to catch him now as he’s getting older and I want to fight him at his best. It’s definitely a fight we’re looking at.
What has been the key to your success - natural talent or pure hard work?
Q
Do you enjoy the training camps with Freddie Roach, or are they so tough it’s just a grind?
You know what, some days I love it, others days not so much. It’s my job and, like everyone who has a job, you have good days and bad days. Training is addictive though. It’s something I am hardwired to do.
Who would you rather fight if the deal could be struck - Mayweather or Pacquiao?
Q
Was Prince Naseem Hamed an inspiration growing up? Could you have defeated him?
100% yes, to both questions. Boxing changes so quickly: fighters get smarter, our nutrition and conditioning improves. Today’s fighter is a world apart from those of
Q
I miss my family and friends. I live in LA now, which has become a second home for me but my heart is always in Bolton. When you’re training you can feel isolated and I need to return to my roots whenever I can.
Q
Do you plan to move up a weight division?
Yes, around November, December, I’ll move up to 147 [to welterweight]. I’ll eat the right food, train hard, gain muscle and add power.
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Photography - Andy Couldridge/Action Images
What do you miss when you’re in training?
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Good times frostoflondon.co.uk
“I wear different watches for different occasions, but my latest is the Jacob & Co f ive time-zone model, the Grand 5. It’s a beautiful piece.”
previous eras. What did I learn from him? Confidence. He walked into a ring like he owned it.
Q The grudge was famously borne from
Q
Ah, it’s all good for the sport, in my opinion. Boxing fans like to see two fighters eager to get at each other, like two animals straining at the leash. It’s a bit of theatre.
Which current boxers do you rate?
I can count on one hand the people around my weight who I think are world-class boxers. There’s me in the UK, the American Zab Judah and the Argentine fighter Marcos Maidana.
Q
Olympic silver medallist at 17 or world champion at 22? Which was the most rewarding?
Oh, the Olympics for sure. It was such a great platform and where most people remember first hearing about me. Plus it’s free to watch, rather than pay per view, which means a much wider audience gets to enjoy the sport.
Q
You were knocked out very badly in your first defeat as a professional. Some boxing commentators have observed that it was arguably the best thing that could have happened to you because it led to you changing trainers.
Absolutely. We went back to the drawing board with a new trainer – the best in the world – and a new attitude. Freddie put me straight…
Q
What were your thoughts on the grudge match between David Haye and Dereck Chisora, given that neither of them held a British boxing licence. ?
Haye is stronger, cleverer and has held world titles. Chisora lost his last three fights and has never held a world title. The thing is David had nothing to prove – he doesn’t have to do this to protect his legacy – but he just wanted to shut Chisora up. I can understand that.
a rowdy press conference. Does this sort of thing hype you with the right nervous energy or can it be a distraction?
Q Tell us about your watch collection.
I’ve got about 20 watches in all, and I keep them in a proper watch safe – the type that turns the watches slowly so the movement doesn’t stop. I can’t really pick a favourite, I wear different watches for different occasions, but the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – the diamond one – gets worn a lot. I’ve also got a Cartier, a Franck Muller, a Rolex Daytona and a Hublot King Power. My latest watch is the new Jacob & Co five time-zone model, I think it’s called the Grand 5. Matt black with diamonds, it’s a beautiful piece.
Q
What about cars? What sort of collection do you have?
Q
Young sports stars can sometimes spectacularly go off the rails. How do you remain so grounded?
I’ve been given great advice over the years, which I’ve taken on board. Muhammad Ali told me that if I worked hard, I could achieve anything, and he was right. Mike Tyson was also very helpful, advising me to train harder than anyone else, to keep my faith and to ensure my family was always close to me.
Q
What’s your view on drug-taking and sport?
It’s very simple. Every boxer has to take a drug test for every fight. Then there will be no confusion and it’s fair for everybody.
Q
You set up a boxing academy in Bolton – how is that going?
Really good. We’ve had national champions come out of it, and junior champions. Helping to keep kids off the streets, through a project funded out of my pocket, makes me very proud.
Q
What are your long-term goals both inside and outside the ring?
You know, I’ve got past the supercar stage of my life. I’ve had Ferraris, Lamborghinis and all that, but I’ve gone off them. I have simpler tastes these days. A C-Class Merc for day to day driving plus a couple of Range Rovers. One of them is a white Overfinch with all the kit. Lovely car.
My ambition is to be champion of the world and I plan to call it a day when I’m 28 or 29, walking out the way I walked in and not going on too long. After that, who knows? I love fashion so an Amir Khan fashion line is a possibility.
Q
Q
It’s true, I am a bit of a regular on the front row of fashion shows. Fashion isn’t traditionally something boxers are interested in, but I love it. I’m the face of Burton, who do really good smart formalwear, and I also like Prada and Burberry.
As a great champion who fought and beat the best. Someone who is respected on the streets of the UK and the world as a great guy, a family man and a winner.
You’re quite a dapper dresser. Do you have a designer of choice?
How would you like to be remembered?
amirkhanworld.com
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Road trip Words – Jay Boisvert
California dreaming
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A Ferrari California and one of Britain’s finest luxury hotels is a match made in heaven It feels like Christmas morning. That’s the only way of describing today. I’m filled with that feeling of pure excitement which, as a child, meant you were just moments away from opening the gifts that you’d been eyeing up under the tree for the past month. Today, though, is the adult equivalent of that butterflies in the stomach moment. Because today is when I get my hands on the new Ferrari California. As the saying goes, though, all things come to he who waits. And there was a wait. An achingly long half hour where one of the brand’s technical types talks me through the car’s various idiosyncrasies and the numerous ways that I could do expensive damage to this highly tuned machine. Finally, she and I were left to get acquainted and, I am not afraid to admit, it was love at first sight. Sleek, midnight blue in colour and with lines so sensuous, it was all I could do to stop myself stroking her while whispering sweet nothings. Odd, I know, but this car has a strange power over men. I sit in the car and familiarise myself with the ‘cockpit’, while being gently reminded by the head of PR, Jason
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The beauty and culinary delights of the Royal Crescent Hotel and The Bath House Spa
Harris, that they held a copy of my driving licence and, should I get caught exceeding the speed limit, points would be added and the odds of borrowing another Ferrari would be seriously reduced. As I pull out of the garage in this 194mph Italian supercar, the noise of the exhaust sends shivers down my spine and although it’s not mine, for the weekend at least I will feel like a master of the universe. Fast forward 30 minutes, though, and I find myself on the hard shoulder of M4, my journey rudely interrupted by a PC from Berkshire constabulary.
Apparently he had stopped me due to my “excess speed” and not, as I first thought, because he wanted to tell me what a sweet ride I was rocking. I explained to the very polite chap that this was, in fact, an error on his part and it just sounded like I was speeding. As excuses go, this was a shocker, but he just gave a grin and let me continue. Three points avoided – for now… Driving down the M4 on an early Friday afternoon meant it was jammed with traffic, but even gridlock failed to dampen my spirits. As I headed further west the traffic eased and it was the first real opportunity to open
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Road trip Words – Jay Boisvert
“Every f ibre of my being was screaming to get back behind the wheel of that car” From every angle, the Ferrari California is an impressive machine
up the 454bhp V8 and put the dual clutch transmission through its paces. A throaty roar signalled to fast lane dawdlers that they should get out of my way, and it was brilliant to see small boys in the back of cars craning their neck for a look at this blue beast rocketing past their parents’ cars. I could almost hear the conversation that ensued – “Did you see it Dad? Did you? Did you?” Before arriving in Bath I called the Royal Crescent hotel, hands free of course, to find out whether they had sufficient parking. They had a concierge parking service and, when the young lad ran out to take the car, he couldn’t have looked happier. “No ticket required for this one sir,” he said with a grin. I couldn’t help but smile too, as I heard it roar off. After I had checked in my bags I was taken on a tour of the hotel and its stunning grounds. Set in, quite frankly, the prettiest street in Bath, the neo-classical architecture of this place is perfect complemented by the views of the rolling hills nearby and the honey-coloured city itself. Some say Bath is a little twee for their tastes but I found it to be a perfectly preserved example of English elegance.
Price: £143,320 Performance: 0 – 60 mph (97 km/h) in 4 seconds Top speed: 193 mph (310 km/h) Engine: 4.3-litre direct-injection V8 Transmission: 7-speed twin-clutch Economy: 21.6MPG – 306G/KM While the hotel’s award-winning spa was tempting, there was no way I could relax knowing I had the Ferrari nearby, just waiting to be put through its paces around the Bath countryside. Driving along these quiet, twisting roads, it was like the car had found its natural home. The Ferrari stuck to the tarmac as if on rails, gliding around each corner with ease and style. This was the first chance I really had to open up the beast under the bonnet on roads that drove like a Maranello test track. I’ve piloted a few supercars in my time but nothing provided the visceral rush that the California did. I felt at one with the car and it seemed like I could fire it into any corner at high speed and it would pop out the other side without so much as a wobble. This was pure exhilaration, and I loved it.
Dinner that night was taken in the old-school luxury setting of the hotel’s restaurant, and included gastronomic hits such as seared gilt head bream, served with wickedly indulgent garlic mash and samphire tempura, and a roasted rump of salt marsh lamb with boulangere potatoes. The food, the wine and service were all second to none but it was hard to concentrate on the epicurean delights because every fibre of my being was screaming to get back behind the wheel of that wonderful car. The drive back to London the next day was over too soon. Never before have I wanted to spend more time on a motorway – a testament to the unbridled joy that is driving the Ferrari California. While I’ve previously been behind the wheel of the 360 and the 430, this was a different level of style, speed and comfort. When the time came to give it back, I could see from the smile of the Ferrari technician that he was only too familiar with the rueful expression worn by everyone who returned cars to him. It was like a grown-up had taken away a favourite toy. My BMW 5 series now feels like a 20 year old Mondeo. Ferrari, this is entirely your fault…
royalcrescent.co.uk, ferrari.com
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Fashion
Striker pose The season’s top fashion and accessories, showcased by one of world football’s sharpest centre-forwards, John Carew Photography - LaRoache Brothers
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Fashion
PREVIOUS PAGES: shirt, jacket and trousers all by Apsley Tailors; pocket square by Richard James; watch by Mecchanice Veloci; jewellery by Shamballa Jewels LEFT: T-shirt by Les Benjamins; sunglasses by Chrome Hearts; watch by Jacob & Co; jewellery by Shamballa Jewels ABOVE: cardigan by Richard James; watch by Jacob & Co; jewellery by Shamballa Jewels
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The model
John Carew John is a professional footballer who has played as a striker for the likes of Aston Villa, Roma, Valencia and, most recently, West Ham United. He has also played for the Norwegian national team. John’s style “Although I’m 6ft 5in, buying clothes isn’t as difficult for me as it would be if I were a couple of inches taller – if I buy the largest size they usually fit me. I like wearing suits and tend to go for Ozwald Boateng, as the cut is great. Having darker skin means I like suits to be colourful. “Shirt-wise, you can’t go wrong with the Italians. I like Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana but Alexander McQueen is great too. If I’m not working, I’m usually in dark jeans and a dark close-fitting shirt that I’ll wear with a couple of Shamballa bracelets. I don’t tend to make fashion mistakes as I think carefully before I buy. In general, I don’t think footballers dress that well but I do like Carlton Cole and Freddie Ljungberg’s style as they don’t religiously follow fashion. Fashion is about freedom and you should always find your own style. Doing what you feel like is the only way to dress.”
The photographers
Shirt, jacket and trousers all by Apsley Tailors; pocket square by Richard James; watch by Mecchanice Veloci; jewellery by Shamballa Jewels; shoes by Underground Originals; sunglasses by Dite
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LaRoache Brothers The LaRoache Brothers are photographers Wolfgang Mustain and Laurence Edney; a creative team based in London whose fashion and editorial work has taken them all over the world. Their images can be seen in the likes of 125 Magazine, Wig, Schön! Magazine, Glass Magazine, Poster Magazine, Esquire, Dazed & Confused, FHM Collections, Interview, ES Magazine and the Sunday Times Magazine, plus numerous high-profile advertising campaigns. Theirs is an otherworldly, brooding style that combines the theatrical with the fantastical. The imagery has soul and darkness which, combined with great art direction and styling, offers a fresh take on traditional fashion and beauty photography.
laroachebrothers.com
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Shirt, jacket and trousers all by Apsley Tailors; pocket square by Richard James; watch by Mecchanice Veloci; jewellery by Shamballa Jewels; sunglasses by Dite
Photography: LaRoache Brothers. Art direction: Ross Trigg. Stylist: Cindy Hutchinson. Hair and makeup: Bianca Pereira. Model: John Carew. Production assistant: Yaroslav Treschev. Styling assistant: Eddie Clark. Shot on location at 33 Portland Place, London
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When we say your aircraft is our business we mean it – you can leave everything to us. Manhattan Jet Management has been looking after private jets for more than 17 years, making us one of the most wellestablished private jet management and charter companies in Europe. Sales and acquisitions Our private Flight operations jet services Maintenance Management include:
Shared ownership scheme Charter
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Ladoire
Words –Scott Manson
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The Ladoire Black Widow collection stars (clockwise from top left) Mr Race, Mr Ice, Mr Green and Mr Grey
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Ladoire frostoflondon.co.uk
Fuelled by rap, emotion and a loathing of mediocrity, Lionel Ladoire makes watches like no one else can
here’s a delightful paradox that surrounds Lionel Ladoire, Geneva-based founder of the eponymous Ladoire watch brand. His background couldn’t be more traditional: he was born into four generations of jewellers and micromechanics and a childhood surrounded by antique pieces. At 15 he was working in the family workshop, absorbing every ounce of horological knowledge and sketching designs of watches he’d love to create. Flash forward three years though, and an 18-year-old Lionel had embarked on what would turn out to be a six-year pro snowboarding career, giving up the ‘miniature universe’ of watchmaking for a more adrenalincharged world. In true Renaissance man style, he also found the time to become an accomplished rock drummer. This fusion of the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, was the catalyst for the launch of Ladoire in 2007, when he was 35. Lionel’s fresh take on watch design,
creating cool, witty and innovative timepieces that bucked convention saw his brand immediately embraced by forward-thinking watch aficionados. “Am I a rebel?” he laughs. “Yes, I suppose I am. Electronic music, rock and rap inspire me – I listen to it while I’m working – and I guess there are few watch designers who would say that. But to overstep the mark, to rip up the rulebook, you must first understand the basics. I grew up immersed in traditional techniques, and it’s this understanding that allows me to smash taboos and challenge the status quo.” One glance at a Ladoire creation is enough to show you that, in the words of Dorothy, we’re not in Kansas anymore. They bear little resemblance to a traditional watch and, at first, it takes a minute or two to actually figure out the time that’s being displayed. It feels, quite simply, like you are looking at the future of watchmaking. This is no example of style over substance, though. Everything is created in-house, with movements built by a master watchmaker
who previously designed complications for top brands. The result are watches shot through with innovation, from microrotors to virtually friction-free ceramic ballbearings and, in the case of the Ladoire RGT, featuring 525 parts. “This level of complexity means we can only produce in low volumes,” says Lionel. “Our Mr Green watch, for example, only runs to 12 timepieces available for the world. And in any year, we will never produce more than 300 watches. What this means, though, aside from being built to the highest possible standards, is that we are very quick to turn around designs and get them to market. In an industry full of protocol, and where huge committees must approve every step, we are very nimble.” The stunning Mr Green piece forms part of Ladoire’s Black Widow collection, a range of watches that Lionel describes as “dark, edgy and underground.” The mandarins of the watch industry clearly think so too, with the timepiece winning the prestigious ‘best watch architecture’ gong at the Couture time awards in Las Vegas. And, in a ballroom filled with tuxedo-clad
“Electronic music and rap inspire me – I listen to it while I’m working”
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Ladoire frostoflondon.co.uk
CEOs, Lionel was, of course, the only award winner who strolled up to the podium clad in jeans and a T-shirt. Clearly, that rebellious streak runs deep. “I don’t set out to be contrary, or deliberately different,” he says. “But I have my own aesthetic, my own style, and I must be true to that.” That aesthetic informs all his designs, with the typical customer a man aged between 35 and 60. These are big watches, after all, and better suited to a larger wrist. And with prices that start at £46,000 for the Black Widow models, rising to £169,000 for the RGT Royal Gold, these are serious works that appeal to serious collectors. “My watches are an emotional purchase, like a piece of art,” Lionel says. “We sell mostly to people who appreciate the way we combine cutting-edge technology with ground-breaking design. “If I was put in charge of the watch industry for a day, I would ban mediocrity. I push myself so hard when it comes to design and it pains me
to see big brands rolling out unimaginative work year in, year out.” There are some brands, though, which Lionel feels are still pushing the envelope. Urwerk gets a nod for its modernism and unconventional approach to watchmaking while, on the flipside, the classic styling of celebrated Geneva master watchmaker François-Paul Journe is the result of “a true artisan, someone driven by a passion that borders on addiction.” It’s a quality that Lionel Ladoire also shares, because his is not the world of a typical timepiece technician, but an artist. And, like all artists, he is unpredictable, obsessive and radical in everything he does. “Wait until you see what we have planned for 2013 and 2014,” he grins. “There are two projects in production that will blow your mind.” Of that, we have no doubt. Shine on, you crazy diamond.
ladoire.com
“My watches are an emotional purchase, like a piece of art”
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The timeless appeal of daines & hathaway
Suede-lined and cushioned Travel Watch Roll, Available in different leathers, ÂŁ130
The home of luxury leather goods – handcrafted in England
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06/07/2012 14:09
Portfolio diversity Words - Hannah Silver
What’s the alternative? For more fun, challenge and, crucially, money from your investments, it pays to go off-piste
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Stocks, bonds, property. Yawn. With traditional investment models increasingly volatile, many people are expanding their portfolios to include more unusual investments. Whether it’s racehorses or comics, watches or wine, there are a host of quirky, and potentially profitable, options for the canny investor. Here, then, are some of less mainstream assets that are worth investigating.
Classic cars, like this 1930’s Bentley, could be a canny investment
Vintage cars
The last few years have seen classic cars offer a better return than both equities and gold, and the better the model, the better the return. A 1955 Aston Martin drophead coupe bought in 2009 for £181,000 was sold two years later for £227,000. Last year at Goodwood, Bonhams sold a Ferrari 365 GTS/4 Daytona for £595,500, while a Ferrari GT Spyder that could be bought in the 1960s for £60,000 now goes for around £5m. Buy the best you can afford and reap the rewards.
bonhams.com
Treasure
Arguably the most exciting of alternative investments – making your fortune from found treasure is a childhood dream. While financing a treasure hunt is extortionately expensive, there is the more realistic possibility of buying shares in a company that will search out the goods for you. Shares in Odyssey Marine Exploration, a company that does just that, are on the up and the company is planning three recovery expeditions to shipwrecked boats in 2012.
shipwreck.net
Cows
Granted, this does seem slightly comical, but renting or buying cows can provide a consistent income. Regardless of the economic climate, cows will produce milk, which can offer annual returns of 5%; not bad when compared to savings accounts which deliver less than 2%, and if your cow should reproduce your return goes up. You can opt to keep the cow yourself, although we suspect only the dedicated few would do so, or board it with a farmer until you choose to sell.
gestel-sa.com
Domain names
Purchasing a domain name and waiting for an investor to come along and buy it from you for a profit is all well and good, but a better way of getting the most out of this investment is to use it. Revenue can be generated through selling or leasing your space, giving you a steady income. If you’re still hoping to sell big, keep it short – addresses with five letters or fewer are rare but worth a fortune if you can find them.
uk.godaddy.com
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Racehorses
Enjoy the thrill of raceday as part of a respected racing syndicate
First up, a word to the wise. Companies that sell shares in racehorses are clear that these should not be viewed strictly as an investment, but as something to be done for recreation and enjoyment. Of course, there are financial rewards for winning. There is six-figure prize money for the best races and, in most cases, the racetrack will reward the owners for a place up to third. Also, if your horse wins a classic or listed race, its resale value can run into millions of pounds. The savviest way to get started in the sport of kings is to join a syndicate of up to 12 people, with each member owning a share of a horse for a relatively modest outlay. You can then enjoy an average of two years of thrills as you follow the horse’s fortunes. Bloodstock Racing is one company offering just such an investment opportunity. They specialise in flat racing (ie, no fences) which is one of the most prestigious forms of racing and offers the greatest rewards. If you’re looking for a way to make a day at the races a truly memorable experience, this is for you.
Bloodstockracing.co.uk Memorabilia
Emphatically not junk that you haven’t got round to throwing away, old toys from the 1960s can actually be surprisingly valuable. Action Man, G.I. Joe and Barbie dolls can pull in as much as £6,000 at auction, while rare toy robots and Mickey Mouse figures have all done well at Christie’s in the past. To get the most from vintage toys, wait until at least a generation has passed from its heyday and save the toys that were least popular at the time, as their rarity commands the highest prices.
christies.com
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Portfolio diversity
Wine
are virtually assured, with buyers expecting to make a 20-30% gain on their investment in just two to three years. Demand from the Far East for the finest Bordeaux has led to a situation where demand far outstrips supply, and interest from this vast consumer base has driven prices through the roof. Futures prices on Château Latour’s 2010 vintage, for example, were up 30% on the previous year’s release, reaching €780 (£620) per bottle, and this was largely due to an upsurge in Chinese interest. Château Lafite-Rothschild and Château Mouton-Rothschild are currently the most popular estates for buyers in China, which in 2010 was the largest export market for Bordeaux. Bordeaux’s debt to the Chinese market was highlighted by Château Lafite printing the Chinese character for the number eight on each bottle of its 2008 vintage premier cru. In China, the number symbolises good luck and a prosperous future, but three years on, many investors now believe that Asian interest - which has led to seemingly unsustainable price hikes - may prove to represent something of a poisoned chalice. BBX (Berrys’ Broking Exchange)
bbr.com/fine-wine/bbx Fine & Rare
frw.co.uk Liv-ex
liv-ex.com
Photography - Patrycja Zadros / Shutterstock.com
Most wines, like antiques or vintage cars, are classified by the taxman as ‘wasting assets’, meaning that the commodity’s predictable lifespan does not exceed 50 years. As such, they are exempt from Capital Gains Tax, the scourge of the investor. When it comes to fine wine, however, the 50-year rule becomes practically unenforceable. How, for instance, can one prove that a case of Château MoutonRothschild from 1959 hasn’t spoiled, without first uncorking a £2,000 bottle and tasting? This grey area of taxation law continues to be exploited by fine wine investors, lending an advantage to selling not enjoyed by assets such as stocks and property. But fine wine’s status as both an asset and a consumption good make it unusual in another respect – its value appreciates as its peers from the same vineyard are consumed. Logically, the most expensive wines are also among the most scarce, not merely where significant quantities have been consumed or purchased, but where low-yield, high-value estates have produced only a limited run for buyers and investors. In Bordeaux, where the most sought-after investment wines are found, a case of recent vintage premier cru (first growth) wine will typically sell for around £4,000. Bordeaux represents a relatively low-risk investment, where a consensus has been reached for the pricing of most of the vintages and estates. For a good vintage from a top vineyard, returns over even the short term
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Portfolio diversity
Vintage comics are perennially popular
Magic cards
On the face of it, Magic: The Gathering is simply a trading card game where you play the role of a powerful wizard fighting for glory, but the cards themselves are also proving to be a great investment. The most valuable card, the Alpha Black Lotus, is worth tens of thousands of pounds and is still on the rise. Even lesser Black Lotus cards go for £10,000 or more, making the game a solid bet for investors and geeks alike.
wizards.com
Forestry
Comic books
When a Superman comic went for £1m in 2010, a whole generation of fanboys (and girls) were vindicated. The original Action Comics No 1 was the 1938 issue in which Superman first appeared. While this is exciting news, it doesn’t mean every comic is a secret moneyspinner. Experts advise focusing on the classics, such as Spider-Man and The Incredible Hulk, and keeping them in pristine condition.
forbiddenplanet.com
For more than two decades forestry has proven to be a more reliable asset than global equities for many investors, bringing in returns of 10-15 % yearly. Rising timber prices in the developed world has been one of the drivers of forestry as a viable alternative investment. Ecoforests is one such company, developing sustainable and ecological forestry activities in deforested lands. Ecoforests’ COO Michael Ackerman points out that, besides being a strong investment opportunity, the company also helps to create important CO2 ‘sinks’ which help to offset the effect of climate change. “We invest in the environment of tropical regions,” he says. “ Improving soil, planting trees and implementing cutting-edge forestry management and techniques to obtain the highest possible volume of timber.” The stats speak for themselves. In the last three or four investment market collapses, timber remained one of the most stable commodities. With population growth virtually guaranteed, it’s a safe bet that the world will always need timber. “We recommend fund managers to include Ecoforests as up to 10% of any portfolio. It’s a buy-and-hold investment though, around eight to 16 years, rather than get-rich-quick,” advises Ackerman.
Watches
There are many qualities which must be taken into consideration – complexity, rarity and the condition of the watch are key in selecting the appropriate investment piece. Look to influential names such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet, plus indie newcomers such as deLaCour, Richard Mille and F.P. Journe. In 2008, several models by F.P. Journe, which produces about 950 timepieces a year, fetched more at auction than their original retail prices. The 2005 Vagabondage collection comprised 69 platinum wristwatches, each priced at £36,700. In 2008, one piece from the edition sold for £54,600 at Antiquorum Geneva. Similarly, German maker A. Lange & Söhne’s Pour le Mérite tourbillon, made in 1996 and priced at £65,700, sold for £167,500 at Christie’s Geneva in 2008. In a time when money in a bank earns little interest, it’s unsurprising that many investors are choosing to put their cash into something they can wear, enjoy and which will at least hold its value.
frostoflondon.co.uk
ecoforests.eu
This 1956 Patek Philippe watch has been estimated at between £40,000 and £60,000
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“Timber : the best performing asset class in the last – J.P. Morgan 25 years.” w w w. e c o f o r e s t s . c a
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08/05/2012 16:25
International watchmakers
Looking for a unique watch, built by an under-the-radar craftsman? We reveal some of the world’s best independent watchmakers
There are two reasons for owning a watch: telling the time, and telling the world something about yourself. A wristwatch is an act of self-expression, whether it’s a statement of loud, gleaming extravagance or something far subtler that only those in the know will pick up on. The watch houses of Switzerland offer these and every statement in between, but if you wish to say something more recherche and esoteric, you could look further afield. While Switzerland has a near-monopoly on high-grade watchmaking, there are a handful of passionate, dedicated craftsmen around the world making pieces that are easily the match of those produced in Geneva or Le Locle.
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You’ll find them salted away in ateliers in unlikely places, producing fascinating watches in tiny volumes, driven by their own creative fire and independent spirit. When someone asks what that is on your wrist, there has to be a certain satisfaction in explaining that it’s a unique piece with a curved movement made by a female master-watchmaker working alone in Sydney, Australia. It’s not just a talking point, it’s a reflection of your own enlightened, cultivated outlook and savoir faire. And, of course, it’s simply a remarkable watch that you’ll almost certainly never encounter on anyone else’s wrist. If that appeals, read on.
19/07/2012 11:48
Words - Timothy Barber
Hidden treasures
DETAILS MAN: Roger W Smith at work in his Isle of Man atelier
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International watchmakers
McGonigle Location Athlone, Ireland Established 2007
RGM Location Pennsylvania, US Established 1992
The US has an interesting watchmaking past - its heyday was in the late 19th century, when American entrepreneurs applied their ingenuity for industrialisation to Swiss craft traditions – but not much to speak of in the present. Going against the grain is RGM, a tiny company founded by watchmaker Roland G Murphy twenty years ago in the small town of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. What’s most impressive is that RGM has produced its own movements, including a superb, Breguet-esque tourbillon, the MM 2, that goes for £60,000. Most of its classical, Swiss-looking pieces are under £7,000, however, among which the most impressive is a charismatic new pilot’s watch, the 801 A, that retails for just £4,100 – a terrific price for a watch with an in-house movement.
John and Stephen McGonigle are a pair of immensely talented watchmaker brothers from Athlone, who happen to have been involved in some of the more exceptional and complicated Swiss watches of the current era. Prestigious watch houses come to the brothers to make their most complex timepieces, such as minute repeaters, tourbillons and perpetual calendars – and when not doing that from their two ateliers in Switzerland and Athlone, they produce their own watches. Their latest creation is the Tuscar, a limited edition of 20 pieces containing the brothers’ own, beautiful in-house movement that’s fully displayed. While a simple piece by the McGonigles’ standards, it’s a charismatic showcase for their old-fashioned skills.
mcgonigle.ie
rgmwatches.com
Roger W Smith Location Isle of Man, British Isles Established 2001
Roger W Smith is regarded as one of the three or four greatest living watchmakers. Following the death last year of his legendary mentor, Dr George Daniels, he is one of few artisans maintaining the great traditions of watchmaking in the British Isles. Specifically, in his case, the Isle of Man – Smith came here from his native Manchester to learn from Daniels and stayed. He creates and builds every part of his stupendous bespoke watches from scratch, movement and all. It’s painstaking work: a recent one-minute flying tourbillon with grand date and co-axial escapement – the remarkable escapement system Daniels invented and sold to Omega, for which Smith has the sole independent licence – took three years to complete. For bespoke pieces, there’s a eight-year waiting list and prices starting at around £200,000.
rwsmithwatches.com
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Sarpaneva Location Helsinki, Finland Established 2003
Look at his watches and it’s easy to imagine Stefan Sarpaneva working away in some remote corner of northern Finland, far up on the Arctic steppe under constant night. In fact Sarpaneva’s workshop is in a fashionable quarter of Helsinki, but his unusual creations retain a sense of farflung Nordic weirdness, not least for the huge moon faces that stare out from his trademark lunar watches. Having worked as a complications specialist in Switzerland for prestigious houses including Piaget and Parmigiani, Sarpaneva returned to his native country to launch his brand in 2003. Produced in low volumes, his exquisite, highly architectural timepieces, such as the Korona K3 Northern Stars (£10,850 in steel) are cherished by collectors around the world.
sarpanevawatches.com
Eva Leube Location Sydney, Australia Established 2004
Konstantin Chaykin Location St Petersburg, Russia Established 2003
Crazy name, crazy location and really crazy watch. Konstantin Chaykin’s main line of business is restoring splendid old clocks, but he seems to be setting his sights on watch collectors also. His Lunokhod watch, announced last year, is magnificently bizarre: in the centre of the dial turns a large orb representing the moon – with one side coated in black rhodium, it waxes and wanes as it rotates, in accordance with the moon’s phases. Surrounding it is a textured steel dial bearing a retrograde 24-hour display in a slit window. There’s pretty much nothing else like this on the market, and Chaykin followed it up this year with a gold skeletonised version.
Being a female bespoke watchmaker is unusual enough. Being one in the land of barbecues and billabongs is downright eccentric, but German-born Eva Leube has succeeded in being just that. She caused a splash last year with the launch of her highly unorthodox Ari watch (£61,000 in gold, £75,000 in platinum), a long rectangular watch that bends around the wrist, requiring a completely original curved movement designed and made by Leube. She cut her teeth working for Rolex in Geneva and has been a watch repair specialist in South Africa, the US and Germany, working with the renowned watchmaker Thomas Prescher for a time. With the Ari model, she has announced herself as a significant new presence in independent watchmaking.
evaleube.com
konstantin-chaykin.com
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000_Ad.indd 2 GM_Adv_Frost_UK_480x300.indd 1
04/07/2012 09:31
108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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04/07/2012 09:31 02/07/2012 16.11.17
Me and my watch Photography - Michael Leckie
On my watch For watch aficionados, a timepiece is more than just a beautiful accessory. We asked four watch fans to reveal their favourite models, and why they love them
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Nick williams Watch by deLaCour; cashmere jumper by Turnbull & Asser; shirt by Emmett; trousers by Zilli; shoes by Church’s; socks by Drake’s
Watch by Hublot; jewellery by Shamballa; grey jacket by Zilli; shirt by Emmett; trousers by Zilli; shoes by Church’s; socks by Drake’s
kevin neal
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A very contemporary return to old traditional high-end standards FVa35 SUPERSONICO 5-minute Repeater SuperLigero Concept FRANC VILA exclusive calibre FV35 Limited edition of 88 pieces
“Not only mine, but a part of me”
Frost of London, +44 20 3372 0108 WWW.FRANCVILA.COM / INFO@FRANCVILA.COM
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05/03/2012 13:39
Me and my watch
WILL PYNE
Watch by U-boat; jumper by Gieves & Hawkes; shirt by Emmett; trousers by Gieves & Hawkes; shoes by Church’s; socks by Drake’s
Watch by Bell & Ross; jacket by Zilli; shirt by Emmett; trousers by Canali; shoes by Church’s; socks by Drake’s
christian banfield
Team credits: Art direction & styling: Ross Trigg. Photography: Michael Leckie. Photographer’s assistant: Izack Morales. Make-up artist: Bianca Pereira. Location: Kipling Suite, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair
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Me and my watch
Nick Williams
Kevin Neal
Will Pyne
Christian Banfield
Grand Reserve rose gold Nick’s is the MD of International Foreign Exchange, a currency broking company that he set up with two partners in 2005 and which now turns over $1bn a year. Nick is also an accomplished powerboat racer, with his IFXsponsored boat competing in the P1 offshore series. “I’ve been serious about watch collecting since I bought my Breitling Emergency about six years ago. I ski, I scuba dive, and I race powerboats so I needed something tough Also, I loved the fact that it had a button which, if pressed, summons the rescue services to wherever you are in the world. Breitling do make you sign a contract, though, in which you agree that if you press it by mistake, you are liable for a £20,000 fine! Yes, it’s a chunky piece but all of my watches are pretty big. I also own a Rolex Daytona, with a white face, and the Jacob & Co five time zone model. A lot of people think it’s an ugly watch but I love it. It’s different. The deLaCour I ‘m wearing was suggested to me by Dino at Frost of London jewellers. The rose gold looks fantastic and is very on-trend, so I’m told. I was in Frost the other day looking at skeletonised watches. Dino showed me a beautiful Arnold & Son model, the TB88, that could well end up being my next purchase.”
Rose Gold Diamond Bezel Kevin is the founder of Kevin Neal Associates, a financial management company that helps its clients to increase profitability by providing expert advice on all aspects of financial planning. His clients include tennis and football players of note. “Yes, you would definitely call me a watch collector. I have built up one hell of a watch portfolio over the years that, in these volatile financial times, is definitely a sound investment. It’s not really about the value, though, but about their appeal as beautiful, functional objects. My first watch was a Rolex Daytona, in rose gold, which I bought when I was about 27. I now have a few more Rolexes and lots of bespoke watches, too. One of those is actually made from pieces of the Titanic, with the bezel fashioned from the barometer of the boat. That came though my friends at Frost of London jewellers. I also got a lovely rose gold Jacob & Co model from them a while back. The Rolex is for everyday wear while the Hublot, which I’m wearing today, is more for business dinners or functions. I also like Patek, but only since they’ve started doing larger faces. I really don’t like small watches – a timepiece needs to be seen. Saying that, I do own a Cartier Ballon Bleu, which is quite small. It’s a total classic though and I couldn’t pass up the chance to add it to my collection.”
Auto Chronograph 43MM Will is the co-founder and creative director of awardwinning creative agency Holler, which numbers brands such as Dunhill, Channel 4 and Red Bull among its clients. “In truth, this is the first proper watch I’ve owned. I wanted something that made a statement and I looked around at the socalled premium watch brands and they all seemed a bit dull and terribly predictable. What I love about this piece are the materials, a great combination of brushed metal and leather. And the face itself is minimal and incredibly simple so, although it’s a big watch, it’s still looks sleek. I know this sounds a bit geeky, but as a designer I also appreciate its typography. If you look at the way the 12 and the 6 are sliced by the two dials on the face, it’s a subtle design tweak that really adds to the overall appeal. It’s a casual watch, but it looks brilliant with a suit, against a white shirt. I’m getting married soon and will definitely be sporting it my wedding. People always do a double take when they see it. I love that.”
Christian is London-based film director and photographer whose work takes him all over the world, shooting for clients such as Absolut, Chivas, Fortnum & Mason, Sony PSP and many more. “I brought a few models along today. My favourite is definitely the Bell & Ross Phantom which is one of a limited edition of 500. I’ve got small wrists and it’s a big watch but, weirdly, big watches seem to make my wrists look bigger, so I like the size of it. As a photographer and filmmaker, I also appreciate that, because it’s matt black, when I’m shooting it gives off no glint or reflection. I wear black clothes on shoot days for this reason, so the watch is just part of that. It’s practical. Also, the hands are big enough to read the time when I don’t have my glasses on! I bought it about three or four years ago but I’m thinking about trading it in. In fact, I might sell all my watches and have a fresh start, a bit like buying new furniture. I don’t really have a dream watch, although I once saw an original Tag Heuer Monaco for sale – a beautiful piece with a burgundy face – and I and have always regretted not buying it. It’s all about the aesthetic for me – I don’t like watches that scream ‘I am expensive’. I’m not interested in anything that is overtly about its value. I perceive value differently.”
Watch: DeLaCour Saqra
Watch: Hublot Big Bang
Watch: U-Boat Flightdeck
Watch: Bell & Ross Phantom
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AN EXQUISITE UNION OF ART AND FUNCTION The Chronophage asks the viewer to consider their perception of time and mortality. Only fifteen of these individually sculpted time pieces will ever exist. Each one is hand crafted from precious materials over the course of two years to the exact specification of the patron; a process that begins with a personal consultation with its creator, renowned inventor and horologist Dr John C Taylor. Discover how to commission your own at www.johnctaylor.com or call +44 1624 828 880
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05/07/2012 14:49
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Theo Fennell Words –Hannah Silver
Lord of the
rings
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Theo Fennell frostoflondon.co.uk
Theo Fennell is the imagination behind the world’s most fantastical jewellery. Just don’t call it bling In the often po-faced world of luxury jewellery, it’s rare to hear a designer cite fun as being the key quality of a collection, but then Theo Fennell isn’t your average jeweller. For three decades he’s been injecting the F factor – flamboyance and fun – into everything he does. For proof, look no further than his gold skull rings speckled with white and black diamonds and rubies; signature pieces with a celebrity fanclub that includes the likes of Sir Elton John and David Beckham. For Fennell though, the glamour of making jewellery and seeing it worn is secondary to the thrill of the creative process. “We’re design-led,” he says firmly. “We look at something we really like without thinking if it’s good this season or if it’ll go with what’s on the catwalk. Our look is one of quirkiness and originality.” Quirkiness is right. Highlights of his new collection include emerald skull bangles, bee and blossom chandelier earrings and an 18-carat gold Gandhi portrait ring. From his bespoke, one-off pieces to the dazzling Theo Fennell Masterworks range, his work seems to spring from a fabulous fantasy world. Rings contain miniature hidden gardens or feature castles with drawbridges. A Wizard of Oz ring
features a miniature Dorothy, and the ring he’s currently working on opens up to reveal a scene from The Wind in the Willows. This is, quite frankly, much more than jewellery. These pieces are complex, painstakingly created works of art. In a time when meaningful qualifications and apprenticeships in the UK jewellery trade have become scarce, it’s telling that Fennell has a traditional background as a craftsman. Starting in the 1970s, his first job at a silversmiths in London’s jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden, taught Fennell the value of traditional craftsmanship and it’s something he has carried through to his own collections,
while watching it disappear elsewhere. “It’s a great shame how many skills have been lost,” he says. “Now the vast majority of jewellers are just stone dealers and we are surrounded by huge brands that dominate everything and squeeze any originality out of the industry.” Starting his own company meant he was able to push boundaries. “We needed something more sophisticated than we had in England. It was all so mainstream. It’s hard to believe now, but back then the vast majority of jewellery was nine carats. We were the first jewellers to only work with 18 carats.” By embracing a plethora of colourful stones and showcasing unusual motifs such as skulls and crosses, Fennell was a shot in the arm for the UK’s jewellery industry. The state of the market today, however, gives him cause for concern, with Fennell quick to point out the difference between bling and well-designed pieces. “While there is some fantastic costume jewellery out there, and in the middle of the market there are a few people making really unusual pieces, the most expensive pieces are all just great big lumps of diamond jewellery. The big brands are producing stuff
“We are surrounded by brands that dominate everything and squeeze any originality out of the industry”
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that’s not brilliantly designed, it’s just stuff – accessories with diamonds stuck on them. All they’re saying about the wearer is that they have a lot of money.” Fennell has distanced himself from this excessively ostentatious end of the market, yet a quick Google search reveals several commentators dubbing him “the King of Bling”, a title he inadvertently contests with that other eminent and high-profile jeweller,
cites his Tryst collection, in particular, as embodying the keepsake qualities that are the hallmark of the best jewellery. This beautiful range of rings is crafted from a selection of precious stones that includes rubellites, tourmalines, brown diamonds and tsavorites, a rare bright green garnet stone mined in Kenya and Madagascar. And while his stones are sourced from far and wide, Fennell keeps production local with all
and you have to carry on and do it. No ride is an easy one,” he says. “One of the few good things about the recession was that it made people really think about how they spent their money, and they tended to want one really beautiful, unusual thing. Certainly the amount of commissions we’re now getting is good. People are looking for originality.” For those looking to get up close and
“My daughters laugh when I get called the King of Bling” Jacob Arabo of Jacob & Co. Unsurprisingly, it’s not a comparison Fennell is comfortable with. “My daughters are screaming with laughter at this suggestion,” he says. “We couldn’t be less alike. It’s an easy, but lazy, comparison to make. For Fennell, it’s vital that his jewellery is not just another accessory. He hopes families will hand his pieces down from generation to generation, and this intention can be seen most clearly in the classical pieces he produces alongside his more flamboyant creations. He
pieces crafted in the workshop next to his store in London’s Fulham Road. Fennell’s achievements have not come easily. He left the business in 2008, following a difference of opinion with fellow directors. A year later, however, he was asked to return to rescue the company from the plummeting sales that were attributed to both his departure and the global financial crisis. It was a truly difficult time, he admits. “One wishes it never happened, but it did
personal with some of the world’s most exquisite jewellery, a new Theo Fennell shop opens in central London’s Burlington Arcade in July. “I’m really excited about it because the Burlington Arcade is like a jewellery box from one end to the other,” he says. “As it’s so tiny, you can really focus on key pieces. It means the jewellery can be the real star.” And, like his jewellery, Theo Fennell is someone whose star is still in the ascendant.
In brief If you were to give one If you had one day to live, What do you do when piece of advice to your how would you spend it? you are not working? children what would it be? In the garden with my family I go to my favourite places Be true to yourself and work with people. Spend your time with people you trust and like.
having a sing-song.
What has been your greatest accomplishment?
I only wear my own jewellery. I have a gold bangle that’s become a lucky charm.
Remaining difficult to old age!
Do you wear any other jewellery brands?
in London – the National Portrait Gallery, the Tate and lots of bookshops. I love watching sport, mainly golf and cricket, and of course spending time with my family.
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Motoring Words – Kyle Fortune
McLaren’s quest for perfection means the MP4-12C supercar just got a little more super If you understand McLaren, and specifically its chairman Ron Dennis, you’ll know that as a company it strives for absolute perfection. Its Woking HQ is meticulously laid out, while the spotless all-white factory that produces its road cars has more in common with an operating theatre than a typical car production plant. The latest masterpiece produced there is the MP4-12C, a successor to the McLaren F1, which first put the high-technology world of Formula 1 in a road car package. The MP4-12C’s carbon-fibre tub construction is light and strong, its suspension able to mix incredible control with luxury-car levels of comfort. Hitting the road in 2011, its performance was never in question,
but the perfectionists at McLaren have decided they could do better. Order yours today and the 3.8-litre turbocharged V8 engine no longer pumps out 600hp, but 625hp. Its 0-62mph time remains a ridiculous 3.1 seconds, but – if you can somehow keep a clear head – you’ll find it’s even keener to deliver you from 124mph to 186mph. More noticeable - at least away from Germany’s autobahn network - is the revision to the Intake Sound Generator, with selectable powertrain modes now affecting the noise heard by the driver in the cabin. So it’s louder, but then it’ll be the right kind of noise, the type that leaves you tingling and wondering why all cars don’t sound this good. The interior
remains as logically designed as it always was, though getting in and out will be easier thanks to a button - rather than a touch sensor - on each door. It looks the same, save a tiny tweak to McLaren’s logo, but then a huge part of the car’s aesthetic appeal is the relative restraint shown by its designers. This is a supercar that doesn’t need to shout to be appreciated, even if it’s just become a bit more ferocious thanks to those extra horses. And for those who already own one, the good news is that your car will be upgraded by McLaren for free. Now that’s customer service.
Power up Price £168,500 Performance 0-62mph (0-100km/h) in 3.1 seconds Top speed 205 mph (330.5 km/h) Engine McLaren M838T twin-turbo 3.8 L V8 Transmission 7-speed dual-clutch Construction One-piece Carbon MonoCell
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Grooming Photography - Michael Leckie
Class rebels
There’s a new wave of barbering in town: laid-back, decadent and naturally anti-establishment Classical barbering’s a bit like the monarchy. If it’s going to survive, it needs a little shaking up. That’s the thinking behind a collection of new looks for men created by Melogy, the men’s grooming salon based at London’s iconic St Pancras Renaissance hotel. Inspired by Italian New Wave films such as Visconti’s tale of aristocratic decadence Sandra and Antonioni’s L’eclisse,
the new laid-back looks feature longer, more decadent silhouettes, natural in-need-of-a-cut textures and a chunky, masculine feel finished with a light shine. Every trend needs a name and Melogy artistic director Dan Gregory has dubbed it ‘anti-classico’. Says Gregory: “Men always want to look good. Sometimes they want to be rebellious. Anticlassico gives them the best of both.”
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previous page: left: knitted jumper by Esemplare; denim shirt: Mauro Grifoni; wool trousers by Mauro Grifoni; trenchcoat by Esemplare; shoes by Grenson; socks by Uniqlo centre: black suit, shirt and tie by Canali; socks by Emmett London right: printed shirt, waistcoat and skinny jeans all by Paul & Joe; chelsea boots by Canali
01 Anti-bouffant
This cut steps away from tapered necklines and high and tight brush backs to keep length around the hairline, creating a more natural look and finish. A subtle shine product completes the look.
this picture: suede bomber by Mauro Grifoni; white shirt by Emmett London left: leather jacket by Mauro Grifoni; white shirt by Emmett London; skinny jeans by Paul & Joe; chelsea boots by Canali
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L I F ES T YL E M AN AG E M E N T & C ONC I E RG E
T H E A NON YMO U S OF F E RS BE S P OK E LON D ON G A M E S C ONC I E RG E S E RV IC E F OR T H E U LT I M AT E E X P E R I E NC E We would like to make your life easier by offering our exclusive host services including: Travel with private chauffeurs in luxury cars, helicopter charters and special water chariot transfers to the stadium. Guest-list and table bookings, restaurant/club reservations, special events, travel management (dedicated personal shoppers), hotel bookings with upgrades (based upon availability), private chaperones and security services, childcare services, fashion stylists, photographers and beauty therapists, hair and make-up professionals, medical care, and more available upon request. Our dedicated team will be there for you to ensure that you have the best possible experience of London.
For further information on the London Games services and other lifestyle & concierge packages please contact: T: + 4 4 ( 0 ) 7 5 5 1 0 0 7 0 5 9 E : a n n a @ t h e - a n o n y m o u s . c o m W: w w w. t h e - a n o n y m o u s . c o m Photo courtesy of www.laroachebrothers.com
Grooming
02 Anti-crop
Velvet suit by Canali; parsley print shirt by Etro; bowtie: vintage from Beyond Retro
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This cut gets away from the traditional barber’s clipper crop, which uses clean cut lines and tapers. Instead, Melogy uses only scissors and a texture razor to create the length and layers, while following the shape of the head to create a rounded silhouette.
19/07/2012 11:57
Grooming
Knitted jumper by Esemplare; denim shirt by Mauro Grifoni; wool trousers by Mauro Grifoni; trenchcoat by Esemplare; shoes by Grenson; socks by Uniqlo
03 Anti-Gatsby
Melogy celebrates the upcoming film of The Great Gatsby, starring Leonardo DiCaprio, with its own take on the louche jazz age look. It comprises scruffy edges with a hint of a quiff for a swarthy, rather than smarmy, feel. And while women rubbed champagne into Jay Gatsby’s hair, Melogy recommends something a little more practical: American Crew defining paste.
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Melogy artistic team: Dan Gregory, Carmelo Guastella, Miguel Gutierrez. Photography: Michael Leckie. Photographer’s assistant: Izack Morales. Makeup artist: Vincent Salinitri. Clothes stylist: Francesca Fasan. Models: Oxygen London; Location: Royal Suite and Grand Staircase, St Pancras Renaissance hotel, London.
19/07/2012 11:59
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Technology Words – Alex Pell
The sound of now
Audio Technica ATH-W1000X
There are many sound reasons to invest in a pair of premium headphones for the home. Chief among these is the ability to savour loud music or films late at night without raising hell around you. Most models do, however, tend to either leak sound, which won’t win you many friends, or otherwise feature a closed-back design that typically involves serious sonic compromises. These Audio Technicas are a class act because they genuinely deliver the best of both worlds – sensational sound as well as privacy. The headset itself exudes luxury, with beautiful housings constructed from distinctive American black cherrywood and hand-finished with leather so soft you’ll want to wear them for hours. Pop them on and enjoy your music with outstanding clarity and power even when partnered with less-than-awesome audio equipment. In other words, you don’t need to own the audio equivalent of the Death Star to make this bad boy fly. If there can be any criticism, it is that, although comfortable, the mechanism that holds these cans against your head can feel a little loose and the distinctive headband arches protrude just a tad too far. Other than that, they rock.
Headphones so good you’ll want to keep your music all to yourself
£599, eu.audio-technica.com
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Bowers & Wilkins P3
Operating in the sweet spot where style and substance embrace are these imperious new fold-ups by renowned speaker-maker B&W. Given their fairly modest size and price, the P3’s sound is sensational. The cable features iPhonefriendly controls and though this is slightly fiddly it is at least replaceable, as are the earpads. It’s wise to slip on a pair before reaching for your credit card, however, as the fit is not for everyone.
£169, bowers-wilkins.co.uk
Bose QuietComfort 15
Beyerdynamic T50P
These are the ultimate all-rounders. They are compact for life on the road – and able to make even the shonkiest music files sound serviceable – yet once connected to a decent source, would give even the Audio Technicas a run for their money, with weighty bass that doesn’t overwhelm the music. Their metal construction is an immediate hallmark of overall quality and only the absence of any in-line phone controls spoils the party.
Bose has ruled the roost for years with respect to noise-cancelling headphones, which employ a microphone and clever electronics to reduce background hubbub. Slip on a pair of these and you’ll soon realise why. These cans are immensely comfortable, sound terrific, and the noise-cancelling effect is akin to a cloak of silence. They are the ideal choice for loud offices or long flights but remember to carry a spare battery as they won’t work without power.
£265, bose.co.uk
£195, europe.beyerdynamic.com
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04/07/2012 09:37
Superyachts Words – Ellie Brade
Let’s do launch This summer sees some stunning new superyachts hit the seas. Here we highlight three of the best
_ The 42.6-metre Adastra trimaran, built by McConaghy Boats in Hong Kong
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Superyachts
As summer hots up, so do the superyacht shipyards. With a flurry of prestigious launches all jostling to get champagne on their bows in the past few months, there has been plenty of eye candy for boat lovers. The breadth of choice means that there is a yacht out there for everyone, from the thrill-seeker to the sun-worshipper. For those who love their adventure and sports, the 78.5-metre Hampshire II is a dream yacht. Built by renowned Dutch yard Feadship, it features every piece of sporting equipment imaginable, including a court for playing games such as basketball, football and tennis on the foredeck. A beach club aft forms the base for windsurfing and sailing, but the killer feature is the zip line that can deliver you direct from the crow’s nest straight into the water at high speed. Another stand-out yacht that launched in time for summer is Wally’s 50-metre Better Place, a Bugatti-blue vessel that has the honour of being the world’s biggest all-carbon sloop. Wally is famous for its innovative and distinctive design style and Better Place’s sleek and aggressive lines will make it instantly recognisable on the water. The boat’s owners will be able to make the most of its enhanced inside-outside living areas and vast interior space, including an aft owner’s suite with a private terrace. For a truly science-fiction take on the life aquatic, though, look to the unique trimaran styling of the 42.6-metre Adastra. With its distinctive silver hulls and state-ofthe-art systems (which can even be controlled by iPad), this is one of the most exciting boat launches of the year. Built in Hong Kong by McConaghy Boats and designed by John and Orion Shuttleworth, it is about to set off on a round-the-world circumnavigation, offering up to nine guests the chance to sail 4,000 miles at a time in comfort and style without refuelling. To put that in perspective, it’s the distance from London to Chicago. A panoramic window in
the huge saloon provides a stunning backdrop wherever you are in the world, while the garage door folds out to become a large diving platform. So if you’re strolling along the beaches of the Med this summer, keep an eye out for these sleek yachts moored off the shores. Even on dry land, you’ll be able to spot the boats’ guests from a few hundred yards – they’ll be the ones sporting huge Cheshire Cat grins.
Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence, part of The Superyacht Group _Above and top: The 78.5-metre Hampshire II by Feadship _Below: Better Place, Wally’s 50-metre all-carbon sloop
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16/07/2012 15:02
Travel Words - Scott Manson
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Hotel Cipriani, Venice
The Palladio Suite at the Hotel Cipriani is the one for visiting showbiz royalty – Elton favours it, as do many of the A-listers in town for the Film Festival. It has a 180° view over the Venetian lagoon through floor-to-ceiling windows from the bedrooms, living room and dining area. The living room can be transformed into a cinema, and there are three bathrooms, each crafted from Carrara and Verona marble. It comes with a secluded private garden and has a wooden terrace shaded by shrubs and lemon trees plus an outdoor heated Jacuzzi. And don’t feel you are in a gilded cage – a short walk leads you to a private jetty, where a motor launch with driver is at your disposal so you can explore the various islands.
hotelcipriani.com
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Travel
Brown’s Hotel, London
London’s oldest hotel has played host to a variety of luminaries over the years, including President Roosevelt, who visited on his honeymoon, Alexander Graham Bell, who made the world’s first telephone call from one of the rooms and Rudyard Kipling, who penned some of his celebrated writing here. It’s fitting, then, that the Jungle Book author has
since had the hotel’s finest room named after him. One glance around the Kipling Suite, with its floor to ceiling windows, views over Mayfair’s fashionable Albemarle Street and 16 (count ‘em) types of pillow available from the pillow menu, tells you that this is the perfect pad for discerning guests who appreciate discreet luxury.
brownshotel.com
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Travel
ME Madrid, Madrid
ME Madrid’s Tower Suite – ay caramba. In the historic Plaza de Santa Ana in the heart of the city, Tower Suite’s two spacious roof-terraces mean you can look out over the city like you own the place. Which you may well do. This is no ordinary suite – it’s a twostorey affair, taking up 1,615 sq ft. They say: “The suite offers an airy oasis of calm in a bustling area where space is a premium.” We say: “This place rocks!” In what was once the Grand Hotel Reina Victoria, the suite is essentially the tower of one of the most significant and beautiful buildings in town. Jacuzzi, spa stuff, butler, you get the picture – siesta to fiesta. Buenissimo!
memadrid.com
Le Bristol, Paris
Honeymoon Suite, Le Bristol. There is only one place to stay in Paris. Well, actually, that’s patently untrue – there are lots of places to stay in Paris. But only one if you are Woody Allen. The quirky, neurotic director so loves Le Bristol that he took over the two top floors for his cast and crew when filming Midnight in Paris. The best thing here? The fabulous three-star Epicure restaurant, run by affable and tranquil genius Eric Frechon.
lebristolparis.com
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Moments in time
More than 15 minutes A razor-sharp wit that cut through the glitter and glamour of the fashion industry didn’t stop Andy Warhol sporting a luxury watch, albeit ironically. Pictured here in 1973 with his beloved dog, Archie, Warhol said of his Cartier Tank: “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time, in fact I never wind it. I wear a Tank watch because it’s the watch to wear.” Subverting the objects and ephemera that define modern society was the art-world trickster’s modus operandi and this, the world’s first square watch, proved the perfect fashion accessory.
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Photography - © Arnold Newman/Getty Images The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc./2011 ProLitteris, Zurich
cartier.co.uk
19/07/2012 12:14
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