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MECCANICHE VELOCI / Alfa Romeo 4C / Winter travel trends / luxury gifts / Arnold Schwarzenegger / SKI SPECIAL / BarakĂ jewellery / Watch snob / SUPERYACHTS
WATCHES YOU MUST OWN and 10 future classics
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Watch with linear power-reserve display, grade 5 titanium case. Sapphire crystal back. CORUM superlight titanium baguette-shaped movement (7 gr).
Frost of London, 108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF, United Kingdom 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoondon.co.uk
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TITANIUM
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www.corum.ch
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Explore the Energy of Creation
PYRAMID BRACELET Black diamonds, 18K gold and onyx
108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoondon.co.uk www.shamballajewels.com
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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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www.tresorparis.com email: info@tresorparis.com | tel: +44 (0) 20 3355 4030 facebook.com/TresorParis
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The astonishing Iris Collection from Tresor Paris is an illuminating display of natural fancy, bright coloured diamonds, exquisitely set by jewellery experts in a contemporary style. This rare Natural Fancy Vivid Orangey Yellow Diamond Ring is one of the spectacular pieces from the Iris Collection. This one of a kind ring features a centre stone of over 3.00 Carat flanked by three strands of dazzling natural pink diamonds, all set in 18 carat white gold. Complete with a GIA Certificate (Gemmological Institute of America), to authenticate the ring and the quality of the diamonds along with the iconic Tresor Paris hallmark on the inside of the band. ÂŁPOA Please call 020 3355 4031 for further information or enquiries.
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greenwich
TB88
EDITION HAND-CRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND Arnold & Son Manual movement AS5003 Two barrels, 100-hour power reserve True Beat Seconds, Breguet Spring See-through caseback. 100 feet (30 meters) water resistant Available in rose gold or stainless steel
108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - UK Tel: 020 3372 0108
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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk www.frostoflondon.co.uk
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM Tel: (+84)4 23 234567
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- fo r ewo r d -
issue
Twenty Editor
Scott Manson
scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director
Jonny Hughes
tempusartwork@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer
Alex Doak
alex.doak@astongreenlake.com Web development Manager
Mitchell Finlay
mitchell.finlay@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director
Mark Edwards
mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager
Tom Pettit
t.pettit@astongreenlake.com Account Manager
Ashley Collin
ashley.collin@astongreenlake.com Managing Director
Jay Boisvert
Contributors
From the editor Ask any arbiter of style and they’ll tell you that there is a definitive capsule wardrobe that every man should own. Opinion varies on what it comprises – although the hipper types at Tempus have it narrowed down to 24 classic fashion pieces – but the gist is that, whatever your age, there are some key items that every self-respecting chap should own. As you’ll see from the feature on page 66, the same holds true of horology. We’ve cherrypicked a basic repertoire of modern classics – watches that have stood the test of time – that any budding collector should seek out. These are watches so exceptional that they are still in production after decades and, fittingly, it could take all but the most well-heeled that long to assemble the collection. As the saying goes though, all good things come to he who waits. Alternatively, if you’re looking to do a little timepiece-based crystal ball gazing, then let top watch writer Alex Doak guide you around some predictions for future classics. You’ll find his selection on page 74. Elsewhere, we reveal some of London’s best shirtmakers, have a chat with the action movie icon Arnold Schwarzenegger and admire the high-octane watch brand that is Meccaniche Veloci. Every passionate petrolhead with a penchant for fine watches should check out this thrilling Italian brand on page 94. We have this season’s best luxury travel covered too. From fabulous ski holiday ideas to sophisticated city breaks and paradise islands, our travel experts highlight the hottest winter trends right now. If you’re looking to escape this holiday season, your passport to pleasure starts on page 101.
Juliet Kinsman
As the editor-in-chief at Mr & Mrs Smith, Juliet is instinctive about what makes a hotel stay stylish, and her articles have appeared in publications from Condé Nast Traveller to The Independent. Check out her winter travel trends feature on page 123.
Ken Kessler
One of Britain’s foremost watch journalists, Ken’s impeccable horological credentials make him the perfect choice to select the capsule collection of timepieces that everyone should own. See page 66 to read his must-have top ten.
Enjoy the issue. Alex Barter Tempus is published monthly by Aston Greenlake publishing Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er. TEL: 020 3617 4688 printed by
When it comes to vintage watches, few can match Alex’s know-how. The former director of Sotheby’s watch department, he spent 15 years evaluating some of the world’s finest timepieces and on page 43 he reveals what he learned.
Scott Manson Editor - 15 -
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CHAPTER ONE ROUND TRANSPARENCE ONE of 11
CHAPTER ONE ROUND TRANsPARENCEŽ Three of the world’s most renowned master watchmakers have collaborated on a world-first combination of complications, featuring a laser-etched sapphire dial, hand-beveled cut-out bridges, precious finish chronograph bridge, oneminute tourbillon, mono-push chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, and patented precise moon phase indication on roller in a fully integrated mechanical movement. Shown in 18K red gold and limited to 11 pieces.
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- c o n t en ts -
Inside issue twenty -20Take Me There Enjoy
-79 Wish List With the
a paradise island idyll at the Pangulasian Island Resort in the Philippines
festive season soon upon us, Tempus offers its Christmas gift suggestions
-25 Luxury Briefing Because,
- 94 Driving Force We
it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all
get the inside track on Meccaniche Veloci, the Italian watch brand that takes its design cues from the world of racing
-39 Food and Drink From
Chelsea to Mayfair, two more hot restaurants worthy of your attention
- 101 Beyond The Alps In
the third and final installment of our ski specials we take the road less travelled, looking at more far-flung destinations
- 43 The Word Alex Barter
on the world of vintage watches and Melissa Porter on London’s luxury property boom
- 113 The Chief Of Beef Marcus
- 47The Watch Snob AskMen’s
Verberne, head chef at London’s Roast restaurant, reveals some kitchen secrets
columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums -48 - Auction Watch Our pick of the best pieces going under the hammer this month -50 Trendwatching The
Frost of London director, Joseph Banin, reveals what’s hot right now
- 116 Men Only Think jewellery
was only for the fairer sex? Read on to find out why Barakà has captured the imagination of every alpha male
66
-52 Sheer indulgence Gorgeously
classic city hotels to contemporary coastal cool, Tempus takes the pulse of the best in winter luxury travel - 134 Pocket Rocket Why
decadent gift ideas from Frost of London, just in time for the holiday season
the Alfa 4C represents a return to form for the legendary Italian car maker
-54Object of Desire The
- 139 Stealth Wealth A visit
Arnold & Son Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement is one showstopper of a watch
to London’s Dukes hotel provides us with a perfect James Bond moment
- 143 Eyes On The Prize A
- 57 Style File: Shirts We
fleet of iconic superyachts racing during the America’s Cup? Tempus went dockside to watch the action
kick off our new Style section by getting the lowdown on some of London’s finest shirtmakers
- 146 Around Sound Discover
- 61 Good Times He’s
the best in mobile speaker technology with our selection of movable beats
back. Arnold Schwarzenegger on success, growing old gracefully and, of course, watches
- 149 Passport To Pleasure How
- 66 10 Watches You Should Own
Wondering what should be part of your essential collection? We reveal the must-have pieces, plus 10 further future classics
- 123 Winter Hot List From
Mallorca got its mojo back
Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Ed Lawrenson
- 154 Moments in Time We
reveal Longines role in the world’s first nonstop transatlantic flight
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SHIRTMAKERS W W W. E M M E T T L O N D O N . C O M
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Take me there
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Pangulasian
Island Resort
- P H I LI P P I N ES
Brand new to Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s unrivalled boutique portfolio is Pangulasian Island Resort. It boasts a spectacularly unspoilt setting, making for the perfect winter bolt-hole. Fronting a 750-metre white powder beach overlooking the bay, the resort offers 42 individual villas, each with a private balcony, either on the beach, in the forest, 17 metres above the ground, or with a private pool. With a marine sanctuary right on the doorstep, this place is also a diver’s dream. And with winter finally here in the UK, a daydreamer’s dream.
slh.com
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Š Peter Lippmann
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Department stores: Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Selfridges London retailers: Gotham (Notting Hill) - Staffan Tollgard (Grosvenor Waterside) - Hill House Interiors (Chelsea) Katherine Pooley (South Kensington) - Lewis & Co (Marylebone) - Mufti (Notting Hill) Online: www.amara.com
www.baobabcollection.com
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MAGICAL WATCH DIAL
®
TWO WATCHES IN ONE World Premiere A new way in watchmaking Change the dial of your watch by turning the bezel The movement and the date appear thanks to a ingenious optical patented system. R03.FB01.T5.A0001 Chronograph Flyback 18k pink gold. Also available with the exclusive Tourbillon Manège® movement Discover our collections on:
www.revelation-watches.com
LONDON - PARIS - HONG KONG - OSAKA - DUBAI - MADRID - BERGAMO - HAMBURG - INTERLAKEN - LAUSANNE
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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -
Because the best things in life aren't free
Flying Saucer
- A LFA RO M EO & TO U R I N G S U P ER LEG G ER A All eyes are on Alfa Romeo’s beautiful 4C coupé at the moment (for a review, see p134), but slightly to the leftfield is this deeply covetable nod to Alfa’s past, marking the 60th anniversary of the Italian marque’s 1952 C52 Disco Volante (‘flying disc’). Touring Superleggera, a prestigious Milanese coachbuilding firm that has been designing lightweight bodywork for greats such as Aston Martin since 1928, has taken the Disco Volante’s distinctive bubble-cockpit and twin-jet-engine rear haunches, then crimped and smoothed them around the chassis of Alfa’s 8C Competizione – a supercar built in 500 examples from 2007 through 2010.
touringsuperleggera.eu
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Bentley’s Tribute to Bond - V I N TAG E C LASS I CS
“Bond’s car was his only personal hobby. One of the last of the 4½ litre Bentleys with the supercharger by Amherst Villiers, he had bought it almost new in 1933 and had kept it in careful storage throughout the war… Bond drove it hard and well and with an almost sensual pleasure,” so wrote Ian Fleming in his first 007 novel, Casino Royale in 1953. To mark the book’s 60th anniversary, Vintage Classics has partnered with Bentley Motors to create a luxury edition limited to 500, featuring an introduction from racing legend, Sir Stirling Moss, and leather binding sourced from the Italian tannery that provides hides for Bentley’s interiors and a pair of baccarat playing cards.
A star is born
- V ERT U
Following swiftly on from Vertu’s uber-cool ‘Ti’ handset, handcrafted in material-of-the-moment titanium, the English luxury mobile brand has now unveiled the most contemporary and stylish product in its 15-year lifetime. The new Constellation’s sleek, minimal form has been designed and engineered to appeal equally to male and female customers. Its 5.1" sapphire crystal – weighing more than 100 carats – floods the entire fascia, under which sits a 4.3" HD screen, which, thanks to the crystal’s virtual scratchproofness, will remain flawless throughout the phone’s lifetime. Cased in titanium, swathed in calf leather, and full of the moddest of cons, this has to be the handset to rule them all.
randomhouse.co.uk
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Automatic for the People - PINION
There are countless reasons for visiting fine-watch showcase SalonQP this November, but here’s a particularly good one: the debut of Pinion watches – a newly established company based in South Oxfordshire. Formed by designer and watch aficionado Piers Berry, the brand is driven by his vision to produce English-designed and assembled automatic timepieces that evoke design simplicity, high legibility and robustness. Every single aspect of Pinion’s first ‘Axis’ collection (which starts just shy of £2,000) is designed by Berry, including the straps and packaging, plus supporting marketing and photography.
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Sky-High in China
- FO U R S EAS O N S
Located just over the border from Hong Kong, Shenzhen became China’s first Special Economic Zone in 1980 – a living experiment in capitalism that has propelled China to superpower status. By 2008 this high-tech hub was appointed a UNESCO City of Design and one of China’s leading cultural capitals. No surprise, then, that Four Seasons has opened its eighth Chinese five-star here – on a prized plot in Shenzhen’s new central business district of Futian, just steps from the Convention and Exhibition Center. The resort’s four restaurants, bar and lounge, 266 guest rooms and world-class spa all conjure a sense of quiet sophistication and calm, away from the frenetic pace of progress outdoors.
fourseasons.com/Shenzhen
The Elegance of Eloga
- ELO GA
This venerable Swiss watch brand first saw the light of day in 1917 at a quaint atelier deep in the heart of Berne, at the hands of brothers Fritz and Hans Spahr. Their range of professional-quality sports watches had cemented their reputation by the mid-1920s and it is in tribute to this heritage that Eloga’s modern incarnation has launched the Wintime Gold – not only equipped with a finely engineered ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement, but also regulated to precise chronometer standard.
elogaswiss.com
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Artistic Retreat
- T H E P U LLM A N M A RS EI LLE PA LM B EAC H The Accor Hotel Group’s boutique Pullman chain makes its commitment to contemporary art its business, with every one of its 80 luxury hotels positively defined by its décor. The newly launched ‘Art Kube’ at the South of France’s Pullman Marseille Palm Beach is yet another demonstration of Pullman’s desire to promote the artists that share its world outlook. Until December 31, this sea-facing, nine cube-metre space in the lobby will host a series of artists in succession – currently renowned illustrator and graphic designer Arnaud Pagès, known for his transgressive portraits of many famous people.
pullmanhotels.com
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Safe “Design”
Salon QP 7-9 November 2013 The Fine Watch Exhibition 1st Floor Stand F13 Saatchi Gallery London www.agresti.com
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108 New Bond Street, London,
W1S 1EF -London, UK 108 New Bond Street, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM Tel: (+84)4 23 234567
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Titanium Mechanical Hour Minute Skeleton
N e w Yo r k + 1 . 2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 7 Geneva +41.22.310.6962 jacobandco.com
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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -
Drinking from the Hip - H EN D R I C K'S G I N A N D H A N N A H M A RT I N
The jury’s still out on whether it’s actually advisable to clean your jewellery in gin, but Hannah Martin jewellery seems to be embracing the idea wholeheartedly, with its limited-edition Hendrick’s hip flask, available exclusively at Harrods this Christmas. Presented in a handmade leather travelling bag with a bottle of Hendrick’s Gin and a bespoke silk and cashmere scarf from Scottish tailors Walker Slater, each glass vessel is individually hand-blown and diamond-embossed by artisans in Norfolk, and then encased in green leather.
hannahmartinlondon.com, hendricksgin.com, harrods.com
Pearly Queen
- V I CTO R I A & A LB ERT M U S EU M A pearl-drop earring worn by Charles I at his execution in 1649, magnificent pearl tiaras worn by European nobility and a necklace of cultured pearls given to Marilyn Monroe by Joe DiMaggio in 1954 are among the incredible objects on display in a new exhibition at the V&A. Organised with the Qatar Museums Authority, the exhibition explores the history of pearls from the early Roman Empire to the present, with a magnificent selection of natural pearls showing how Gulf pearls have long been some of the most desirable and valuable in the world.
Until 19 January 2014, vam.ac.uk - 33 -
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Buccellati for Tempus UK November 2013
File:draft-print-TEMPUS-v1.pdf
Created: 29/10/13
33 AlbemArle Street, mAyfAir, london WiS 4bP tel. 020 7629 5616 WWW.buccellAti.co.uk/cuffWAtch
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Wired for Sound
- TA D LA B S
Japan’s Technical Audio Devices Laboratories, Inc. (TAD Labs) release two revolutionary new products in their Evolution Series this month, looking to shake up the PC audio market yet again: the DA1000 Digital to Analogue Converter and the D1000 CD Player. Based on the D600 CD Player, the DA1000 follows in the footsteps of its illustrious brother by utilising the UPCG clock circuitry, as well as a newly conceived electronic volume control, to deliver a high-end resolution system that connects directly with the power amplifier. In turn, the D1000 CD Player has the CD unit directly fixed to its bespoke 8mm-thick aluminium chassis, increasing the stability of the rotating mechanism. Its brushless motor spindle also imparts the D1000 with a very low noise and long life. Even technophobes are likely to fall in love, thanks to both products’ drop-dead-handsome design style.
tad-labs.com
Motoring Mash-up
Au d i N an u k
As traditional boundaries blur in the car market, it was only a matter of time before the SUV and supercar collided in an off-roadable, high-performance mash-up. It’s arguably happened the other way around with SUVs offering pace to match supercars of old, yet Audi recently showed the Nanuk concept, which brought SUV to supercar. With its 5.0-litre V10 turbodiesel delivering 540hp, the Nanuk can reach 0-62mph in just 3.8sec on virtually any surface. Odd as it might sound, it could be just the thing for emerging markets, or those wanting supercar looks with a bit more utility, so don’t be surprised to see it eventually reaching production.
audi.co.uk
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Grace and Fire
- P I AG ET
Many prefer to revel in Piaget’s flamboyant and gaudy designs of the 1970s, but you’d be forgetting the Swiss brand’s importance in the decade before, adorning the jet set’s women with the world’s most dazzling jewellery watches. This year’s newly launched Limelight Gala collection draws a wealth of inspiration from this glamorous era, with a little help from newly signed brand ambassador Gong Li, the only Chinese actress to win individual awards in the world’s three largest international film festivals. The watches’ gem-set bezels flow elegantly into gem-set lugs, to lend a subtle flair.
piaget.com - 36 -
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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF - UK www.frostoflondon.co.uk
NeroUno Red Gold Fountain Pen Ref. ISNRC_AC
The Writing Room, Harrods, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL, T: (0207) 730.1234 ~ Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, T: (0207) 318.3140 The Pen Shop, 199 Regent Street, London W1B 4LZ, T: (0207) 734.4088 ~ The Pen Shop, 8-9 Leadenhall Market, Fenchurch Street, London EC3V 1LR T: (0207) 621.0959 Penfriend, 34 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly, London W1J 0QA, T: (0207) 499.6337 ~ Websters Pen Shops , Bluewater,Croydon,Bromley,Brighton, T: (01322) 661545
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- fo o d & d r i n k -
Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens bo lang
Reviewed by Scott Manson
“When I first became a man,” says St Paul in his letters to the Corinthians, “I put away childish things.” If you’ll allow me a slightly tortured analogy, this describes my relationship with dim sum. My first experience of the original ‘small plate’ dining came from suburban Chinese restaurants. Mostly glutinous and interchangeable, the dishes still had occasional flashes of epicurean brilliance. Harbour City in London’s Chinatown was the next step in my dim sum odyssey, and I still consider it the best lunchtime option on Gerrard Street. Then the gamechanger that was Hakkasan arrived, setting the bar for quality dim sum served in a sophisticated environment. On the strength of my recent visit, though, it seems Chelsea newcomer Bo Lang could challenge that Michelin-starred eatery. Its selection, although a smaller offering than Hakkasan,
is technically precise and well thought out. Its décor, too, borrows a design cue or two, with dark wood dividers, stylish velvet chairs and, despite its small size, a good feel of table privacy. It’s perfectly judged for the fashion crowd that inhabit this corner of west London, with a menu that combines classics with more contemporary offerings. The former included a fabulous version of turnip cake – the Chinese New Year favourite – which was a pan-fried, pork-flecked taste sensation. Prawn har gau was similarly old school, but given a contemporary twist with the addition of a blackberry reduction, while a heftier main course of roasted duck, unusually served with samphire, provided a salty, meaty kick. There is a host of noodle and rice options but, frankly, the quality of the dim sum is such you won’t need a carb fix. Little wonder that the ladies who lunch love this new launch. bolangrestaurant.co.uk
the other soho house
Soho Square is now home to a charity-centred members’ club and dining room. The Club at The House of St Barnabas is launched in partnership with the eponymous charity, which has been at this address since 1846. Profits go to the charity for the homeless, and the multi-million pound refurb ensures the venue is set to become one of the hippest hangouts for London’s creatives. hosb.org.uk - 39 -
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enter the dragon
It’s the height of bling. In order to house their new winery and cellar, the Chinese Changyu Pioneer Wine company has built a replica Loire chateau complete with mock ‘dreaming spires’. It’s part of a huge viticultural revolution: in the next two years, China’s wine consumption is expected to double to almost 3 billion bottles a year. The Bordelais are no doubt hoping the Chinese will rediscover their love of claret. On the strength of this excellent Changyu red, though, they may be disappointed. wild honey
Reviewed by Dawn Murden
by Peter Dean Eastern promise
2008 Chateau Changyu Moser XV, the impressive, yet decidedly modest, St Ningxia
Navigating Oxford Circus at rush hour often feels clumsy and claustrophobic, but a short walk to the Michelin-starred Wild Honey restaurant on St George Street and the fluster of the busy shopping street soon disappeared. Wild Honey, which opened in 2007, is the second restaurant from Will Smith and Anthony Demetre, the duo behind Arbutus – the celebrated contemporary bistro in Soho. Wild Honey has a completely different feel from their fledgling restaurant though. Instead of chic black leather and modern lighting, red banquettes surround crisp linen covered tables perfectly spaced apart for comfortable dining. The woodpanelled walls are decorated with a collection of photographic art – old and new – and outside the large window sits
George’s Church. Enjoying a lemon drop martini and a cool cucumber infused gin and tonic under the soft radiant lighting, we agreed Wild Honey felt like a French restaurant hidden on a quiet street in Paris. And the menu kept this illusion alive. For starters we chose the hand-dived Scottish scallops and veal ravioli, followed by a classic rack of lamb and the wild sea bass, which was accompanied by tangy pink grapefruit marmalade, adding a sweet twist to the dish. Each course was delivered with a glass of wine selected to compliment the dishes, chosen for us by manager Chris Cavaille – whose passion for amazing food and drink is infectious. For dessert we opted for a selection of cheeses from ‘La Fromagerie’ and put ourselves in the hands of our waiter. He chose a wide range of blue cheeses and smoked cheddars – all delicious and served beautifully on a board with oatcakes, grapes and chutneys. We also sampled a simple apple tart, but the treats didn’t stop there. With our coffees came a collection of delectable little chocolaty mignardises – ending our experience on a sumptuous sweet note and leaving the lingering taste of Wild Honey on our palates. wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk
A fascinating Bordeaux blend (90% cabernet sauvignon and 10% merlot) that is the first fine red wine to come out of China. There’s bags of fruit, a well-integrated tannin – the result of 12 months in French oak – and a real sense of freshness.
bbr.com, £421 for 12 bottles
Chateau Changyu Gold Label Ice Wine, Liaoning
Chateau Moser is named after Lenz Moser, the Austrian white wine specialist who is spearheading Changyu’s production of ice wine. Because the wines are crushed frozen and have no botrytis, there is a clarity to the fruit and a racy acidity in the three ice wines that form part of the initial release.
bbr.com, £19 for 1 x 37.5 cl bottle Chateau Changyu Black Label Ice Wine, Liaoning
This Black Label Ice Wine is more honeyed than the Gold Label. Its unctuous and rich in the extreme, with notes of tropical fruit laced through the thick dark, ultra-sweet wine. The length seems to go on for an eternity, and can be tasted a good few hours after drinking.
bbr.com, £3500 for six bottles
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“Not only mine, but a part of me” ABU DHABI: Style Gallery, +9712 68 111 88 • AUSTRALIA: Luxury Goods, +61 2 9007 5330 • CARIBBEAN & CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICA: BAY Distributors, 001 246 437 7509 CHINA & HONG KONG: L’Vantage Ltd, Tel : +852 2869 7278 • DUBAI: Bin Hendi, Tel : +9714 43 41 448 • FRANCE: Guilhem Joaillers, +33 4 50 21 66 80. Khallita Joailler, +33 493 68 03 91 GERMANY: Hülse-reutter GmbH, +49 405 388-8213 • ITALY: I. Boncompagni & C., +39 041 522 45 63. Tarascio, +39 06 420 20 73 37. Verga SrL, +39 02 720 93 3799 JAPAN, MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & THAILAND: Luxury Concepts, +603 2142 6328, +603 2141 2881 • KUWAIT: Kallista Holding, +965 2232 0313 NIGERIA: Extra Time, 0805 557 1166. Vintage Watches, 09 461 4592 • PORTUGAL: Espaço Joias, +351 226 168 861 QATAR: Amiri Gems, +974 4442 5972/975 • RUSSIA: SWM Distribution, +7 (495) 203-08-05 • SAUDI ARABIA: Al Kooheji & Partners, +966 389 342 222 SPAIN: Rabat, +34 93 384 4111, +34 96 352 7678. Santi Pàmies Joiers, +34 977 330 697 • SWITZERLAND: Ouranos Espace Temps & Joaillerie, +41 21 311 1188. Sheffield SA, +41 22 311 32 04 SYRIA: Mario Retail, +963113312221 • TURKEY: Greenwich Istanbul, +90 212 241 7510 • U.K.: Frost of London, +44 20 3372 0108 UKRAINE: Noblesse, 380 44 528 33 85 • USA & CANADA: WLG - W Luxury Group, +1 305 674 967 • EUROPE: FRANC VILA S.A., +41 22 317 07 27 • WWW.FRANCVILA.COM / INFO@FRANCVILA.COM
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- t h e wo r d -
The time of my life Alex Barter
Alex Barter is the former director of Sotheby’s watch department in London and Geneva and the co-owner of Black Bough, a shop specialising in vintage wristwatches. blackbough.co.uk
Between 1996 and 2009 I worked for Sotheby’s watch department, initially as an assistant and latterly as the director of the department in London and Geneva. In hindsight, 1996 was a fascinating time to enter the market. Whilst Sotheby’s had historically offered pocket watches for sale, it had only included wristwatches since the early 1980s and it was clear that this category had huge growth potential. Two months before I joined Sotheby’s, my soon-to-be colleagues had set a new world record for a steel wristwatch at auction, selling a unique Patek Philippe (ref.1591) for more than half a million pounds – a huge sum of money for a watch at that time. The following years saw exponential growth as more and more collectors joined the market, with prices for some brands and models jumping from season to season. In the 2000s, the internet greatly changed the market as shared knowledge and detailed information became much more widely available. The influence of the Asian market also had a dramatic impact. Sotheby’s first watch auction in Hong Kong was held in 1997 with a modest number of lots in a slim catalogue; today, by contrast, the Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch catalogue is the size of a telephone directory. Unsurprisingly, many are predicting that Hong Kong will soon be recognised as the base for the world’s major watch auctions, representing a significant shift from their traditional home in Geneva. Working for an auction house, I was in the extraordinary position of seeing thousands of watches a year. I travelled around the world meeting clients, viewing and valuing their watches and attending the Sotheby’s watch
auctions in Geneva, New York, Hong Kong and London. This meant that I was able to study and examine huge numbers of pieces. Quality, condition and rarity were the most important factors I considered when providing auction estimates for watches. I suppose what fascinated me most was comparing models like for like. Take two identical watches from, for example, the 1950s and they will never be exactly the same. Each will have aged in a different way, their dials will have acquired their own individual patination, their cases will have picked up distinctive scuffs, and the way in which they have been worn and polished will alter the appearance of their cases. Therein lies the vintage watch’s greatest appeal: the character and individuality that they afford their owner. We live in a period of great horological innovation. Watchmakers continue to vie with one another to improve the mechanical movement, despite the fact that you can buy a superb timekeeper in the form of a quartz watch for under £20. But for me, there is no glamour, no soul in the circuit board of an electronic watch. Mechanical watches are a part of their owner, their balance spring breathing in and out in perpetual motion.
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The Piccadilly Princess 327 ideal cut round brilliant diamonds weighing 23.36 carats
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- t h e wo r d -
The luxury property boom Melissa Porter
Melissa Porter is a BBC property broadcaster and journalist who recently hosted London’s Luxury Property Show. theluxurypropertyshow.com
In the words of the DJ Fresh song, central London is so hot right now. Over the past year the change in London’s property market has been tangible. Following the recession and the slump in house prices across the country, London is leading the way back with house prices soaring over 8% in the last year. With a buoyant property market in the capital, a ripple effect to other parts of the UK is likely to follow, so strategically investing in property now is probably a good idea – whether it’s your first venture into property or that upsize to a family home you’ve been waiting for. Of course, at the top end of the market, there are still those properties that some investors are wary of. One Hyde Park, I’m looking at you here. However, unlike some other property commentators, I don’t see this luxury residential scheme as a white elephant. It’s only a bad investment if you can’t afford the repayments or your ROI doesn’t stack up. Overall, the smart money is turning to property. With the bogus trading scandals and uncertainty surrounding the financial sector in recent years, the world’s super rich want tangible assets such as precious metals and property to secure their wealth, resulting in the boom of the luxury second home market in many established and emerging economies. Basically, there has never been a better time to put your money where your house is. For those looking at the super-prime end of the London market, you should expect biometric security access, a hydraulic garage set up, private staff accommodation, a chef ’s
kitchen, a panic room and perhaps even a bowling alley, nightclub and helipad. If you’re thinking about buying overseas, you should do some research into the economic stability and prosperity of the country in which you are planning to buy. Information that can be useful includes level of investment in infrastructure by the local government and recent currency fluctuations or trends. Confirming you’re buying property in either an up-and-coming or well-established economy will be key to the valuation and re-sale of the property in years to come. Finally, the canny investor will make their money work harder for them while investing abroad by using foreign exchange companies. Indeed, for those emigrating or making regular payments in any foreign currency, a good foreign exchange company can save you up to 4% on the cost of your transfers, which could end up being £40,000 on a house purchase of £1m. If you are shopping for super-prime real estate in London, though, then I wish you the best of British luck. A recent report revealed that London homes in the £30m-£50m bracket are in short supply, with even big players such as Google’s billionaire chairman Eric Schmidt failing to find a London home, despite his willingness to part with over £30m. Let’s face it, with some Knightsbridge prices rising over 130% in five years, and with those properties being owned by debt-free individuals, there is little incentive to sell right now. So, if you spot something you like, and the price is right, then fortune favours the swift and the brave.
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CONTEMPORARY SWISS WATCHMAKING
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The
Got a question about timepieces? Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…
Hipster horology
Smarter than the average watch?
Believe the Hype?
Yo Snob I live in London and often find myself at events where the dress is upscale but casual (jeans, leather jackets and the like). I have a decent collection of watches for business and formal evening events, but tonight, while I was at a more rock ‘n’ roll occasion, I wondered what a good watch would be for these environments? Neither my Rolex GMT nor my Patek Calatrava seemed to fit. Any thoughts on a watch that can be worn at downscale — dare I say, ‘hipster’ — events, where most people are wealthy and wearing expensive yet informal clothing?
Hi Snob I know you’ve commented on the Pebble smartwatch before but have you changed your mind about it now that it’s proving quite popular?
Dear Snob, I have a question regarding Richard Mille watches. Enormous hype has surrounded the brand. I understand their movements are manufactured by Renaud & Papi, and there is no doubt that they are innovative in their movements, designs and materials. At the same time, the prices they ask for their watches are greater than the average Royal Oak Offshore. What are your thoughts about the brand?
First of all, I am not a fashion consultant. Ask me about the inherent merits of a timepiece, but please not as a wardrobe accessory. Still, your question amused me and I cannot resist a reply. Your so-called ‘downscale’ events seem so utterly contrived I envision a gathering of trustfund hipsters arriving on fixed gear bikes with 35mm film cameras over their shoulders. Let me guess, your friends are wearing vintage Hamilton army watches on canvas straps, and your Patek and Rolex just feel too bourgeois. In this race to the bottom, the perfect timepiece would be a 1970s Casio calculator watch. Be sure to wear it loose, lest anyone think you care enough to have it sized properly. I’ll bet some bleeding-edge boutique sells them, marked up accordingly for you and your friends.
Yes, I have changed my mind about the Pebble. It’s even worse than I first thought. It is an aesthetic travesty, belonging only on the wrists of pasty help-desk workers and will be relegated to the dustbin of history within a year or two, mark my words. As if compulsive smartphone-checking isn’t bad enough, now people will be reading text messages on their wrists. But while I am happily consulting my hand-wound Patek Calatrava in 20 years, the aptly named Pebble will be at the bottom of landfills everywhere, its only legacy the perfluorocarbons that seep into the soil from its plastic case.
Richard Mille, the man, is a bon vivant in every sense of the world, leading the life we can only dream about. He is always showing up at high-society soirees with a supermodel on his arm and rap stars fawning for his attention. Not bad for a short, bald watchmaker. For leading exactly the life he wants, I applaud him. Richard Mille, the watch brand, mimics its namesake in appeal and style. The watches are designed for shock value (and for measuring shock in some cases) instead of legibility, and would be suitable to wear with virtually nothing besides a neon tennis jersey. It would be easy to dismiss Richard Mille as a brand built merely on hype and celebrity, but in fact the timepieces are underpinned by tour de force innovation, even if they are designed for ludicrous scenarios. Would I ever wear a Richard Mille watch? If you’ve read my column, you’ll know the answer to that. If not, let’s just say my tastes run to the more subtle and classic.
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- au ct i o n watc h -
Underthe hammer The Little Prince, a racing team of gorgeous Fifties Jags and some architectural furniture comprise the auction scene over the next couple of months
Sotheby’s
This year marks the 70th anniversary of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s classic novella Le Petit Prince and as official partner to the pioneering aviator and author’s Youth Foundation, IWC watches have produced this outstanding, one-off platinum version of the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar to raise funds for the construction of a school in Cambodia. The moonphase display at 12 o’clock features the Little Prince himself, complete with shock of blonde hair and fluttering scarf, standing on his tiny planet. The watch will be sold with a re-edition of the first printed copy of The Little Prince in English and a facsimile of the original French manuscript.
Estimated to fetch SFr78,000. To be auctioned at Sotheby’s Geneva auction of Important Watches on 12 November. Sothebys.com
Bonhams
Bonhams’ Motor department’s December sale will be held at the house’s new state-of-the-art saleroom on New Bond Street. Among cars already consigned is the stunning Dick Skipworth collection of racing cars from Ecurie Ecosse – a proudly Scots blue-liveried team that took on some of the biggest names in world-class motor racing, and won consecutive Le Mans 24-Hour races for Jaguar in 1956 and 1957. Highlights include a 1953 C-Type and a 1956 D-Type, as well as the team’s famous double-deck car transporter.
Estimate POA. Bonhams’ Important Collectors’ Motor Cars sale takes place on 1 December at the New Bond Street saleroom. bonhams.com
Phillips
This gorgeous pair of ‘Funkis’ chairs, by Axel Einar Hjorth, circa 1930, will feature in ‘The Architect’, a design auction to be held by Phillips celebrating the contributions architects have made to our environment through the furniture, objects, and equipment they’ve invented in response to the buildings they’ve conceived. As Louis Kahn said, “Design is not making beauty. Beauty emerges from selection, affinities, integration, love.”
Estimated between £18,000 and £22,000. Phillip’s The Architect sale takes place in London on 21 November. phillips.com
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byMG/FI
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- t h e h ot li st -
Trendwatching Frost of London director Joseph Banin
S m o k e s i g n a ls We were recently introduced to The Cigar Room at the May Fair. What a place! It exceeded all my expectations, offering a fantastic selection of hand-rolled cigars and an impressive choice of signature martinis in a luxurious setting. Settle down there and you’ll find it hard to leave, I guarantee it.
pa rty li n e The new Vertu Constellation already has a waiting list and it’s no surprise. The handset has the most beautiful finish, there’s amazing Android technology contained within and it’s extremely well priced for a Vertu.
reveals what’s on his radar this month
s u p er fly I am really impressed with the Bell & Ross vintagestyle Falcon timepiece, which is limited to just 50 pieces. When it comes to aviation-influenced watches there are few to match them. We don’t stock the brand in the boutique but they are still well worthy of a mention.
W i n d i n g d ow n Watch winders are a practical must-have for the true collector and, with the trend for oversize faces still on the increase, Scatola del Tempo has introduced extra-large winders, boxes, holder and suitcases. A great gift for the timepiece aficionado.
j o i n t h e c lu b We are very proud to be Associate Members of the Society of the Golden Keys – a London-based collective of the city’s best hotel concierges and others connected to the hospitality industry. We held an exclusive in-store event for some of our concierge partners and it was a roaring success, made even more special as former heavyweight champion boxer Tim Witherspoon made an appearance and mingled with guests.
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COOL CANAPES The good ladies of Frost and some of the fabulous food on offer
PLEASED AS PUNCH Hip hoteliers Ashleigh and Amelia from Intercontinental Westminster (above) and Tempus editor Scott Manson (below) with boxing legend Tim Witherspoon
A night at Frost of London
and one boxing ( rs e li te o h st e n fi e of London’s networking m f o so t f h o ig p n u a ro r g fo ct e le u q A se ’s London bouti st ro F t a d re e th canapés. a r g e tt e b n e champ) v e d n a e fine champagn LUXURY LEADERS Head honchos from The Box nightclub and St James Hotel and Club (right) swap stories
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- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -
frostoflondon.co.uk
01
Sheer indulgence Have a fabulous Christmas with these gorgeously decadent gift ideas 01 Roland Iten
02 Borgioni
03 Theo Fennell
For the aspiring 007, this smart gift set is the ultimate in gentlemen’s mechanical luxury. Complete with belt, insanely clever card dispenser and cufflinks, it’s a set-up worthy of M himself. “Now, please pay attention Bond…”
The mother-anddaughter-designed Borgioni brand comprises some of the world’s most expressive and eclectic jewellery, such as these 18ct rose gold spike dangle earrings set with brown diamonds.
She will love this elegantly festive 18ct white gold and diamond stag art pendant from one of London’s designers. Part of the iconic ‘Arts Collection and limited to just 25 pieces to represent the 25 days of Christmas.
POA
£4,865
£2,850
04 Shamballa Jewels The French cuff shirt is a wardrobe staple for every dapper gent and a pair of smart cufflinks are its essential accessory. Shamballa Jewels presents these black diamond pave and SOS beads cufflinks in 18ct white gold.
£9,470.
05 Valedictorian This golf club is carved from a steel block and then customised for the individual. Titanium, gold and gems add an extra layer of luxury. Oh, and it’s designed by Fabien Muller, son of Frank Muller. Need we say more? From £2,650,
harrods.com
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Arnold & Son We’ve showcased some pretty special timepieces on these pages, but this one has provoked the highest level of inoffice watch envy to date. Available in a limited edition run of just 50 watches, and priced at £57,500, the Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement (UTTE) is one of the thinnest tourbillon watches on the market today. Even those Tempus team members who aren’t tourbillon fans had to agree that this is one showstopper of a watch. The entirely in-house manufactured movement is a thing of beauty. Even cased up it’s only 8.34mm thick, yet it still offers a whopping 90-hour power reserve. With its beautiful finishing and modern aesthetic, this is a dress watch that offers more discreet ‘stealth wealth’ appeal than many other tourbillons on the market. Hand-built in La Chauxde-Fonds, it’s a worthy addition to the brand’s celebrated Instrument Collection. frostoflondon.co.uk
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- o bj ects o f d es i r e -
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Our clothes are made to order by our team of Savile Row trained tailors. We only use the finest cloths, canvases, and linings in the construction of our garments. We make up overcoats, business or lounge suits, wedding attire, sports jackets, shirts, waistcoats, trousers and more.
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- Sty le A dv i c e-
Words - Alex Doak
Get
James Sleater, Co-Founder, CAD & THE DANDY
On the essential rules of wearing a shirt… “At Cad & The Dandy we believe there are three things key to any shirt: style, quality of materials and fit. For the best style and fit it makes sense to work with a tailor who can best reflect your individual taste. Our approach is to mix clean lines and a sharp cut with a consultation experience that puts clients at ease. Think about where the shirt will be worn when deciding on details such as collar type and cuffs – simple comfort at the office or something more striking for a social occasion? Double cuffs mean cufflinks are a necessity, giving you the option to mix things up a little by allowing for more of an individual style statement.
shirty Three of London’s finest outfitters give us their on-the-cuff advice for wearing your shirt well – and what they’re doing to improve the rarefied world of tailoring, stitch by stitch, snip by snip
When looking at materials, quality is everything. Always check the smaller details, paying particular attention to the following: • Thick Buttons: You don’t notice the nice thick buttons on a good quality shirt until you get a shirt with thin, flimsy buttons that snap off easily. • Pattern Matching: Your shirt is made of separate panels of fabric. On a well-tailored stripe or check shirt, the stripes and checks should be aligned where possible at the seams as opposed to being messy and erratic. • Tight Stitching: This makes for a harder-wearing, longer-lasting shirt. Finally, never wear a shirt untucked!” cadandthedandy.co.uk
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- Sty le A dv i c e-
Christopher Mundy, Assistant Manager, BUDD SHIRTMAKERS
On the Stiff Bib White Tie Dress Shirt… “The stiff neckband shirt is the highest form of acceptable shirting for a white tie affair. The essential elements are the stud-holed front, buttons not really being suitable; the relatively short stiff linen bib, designed to accommodate a high waistcoat; and, of course, the stud-holed neckband, readied for the imminent arrival of a stiff dress collar. Budd is purportedly the only shirt-maker to carry this sartorial essential as a ready-made item; entirely manufactured in England. The shirts take an absolute minimum of six to eight weeks to produce. They are painstakingly crafted by-hand: even the stud-holes are measured out by rule – pierced by one of the ladies at our Andover workshop.
“Understated elegance is what Savile Row is all about,” says Haneesh Jangra, head tailor at Oxborough Tailors
Haneesh Jangra, Head Tailor, OXBOROUGH TAILORS
On the shirt-tailoring process…
When each masterpiece is complete, it is then couriered off to be starched by our launderers (who also launder customers’ sullied shirts post-party). Finally, the shirts are couriered to us whereupon they are prepared so that they can be pieced together with their eventual owners’ tailcoats, vests and trousers via the tidy little fastener, which falls beneath the bib, away from prying eyes.
“At Oxborough Tailors I make handmade shirts to order, the traditional way. Firstly once I have measured my client, his measurements will be drafted onto a paper pattern, which is kept for future orders. Next the cloth is cut by hand from the pattern and then sewn on a sewing machine by our Savile Row-trained tailor. Each shirt is made to a very high standard from British cloth and finished with mother of pearl buttons. The shirt fits perfectly, not too much excess cloth so it creases up under the jacket, but not skinny-fit.
With the studs and cufflinks (starching the cuffs naturally renders a folded double cuff invalid, so a dress single cuff is used - buttons, again, will not do), stiff collar and bow tie crowning the shirt’s glory, the completed outfit is something which both wows fellow guests and enhances the wearer’s appearance.
The benefits of bespoke tailoring is that my clients can choose from more than ten different cuff styles or collar styles to suit their preference. This includes my new watch-in-cuff style for the timepiece connoisseur. Often with shirts, the cuff diameter does not allow for a larger watch on the wrist, so I made a cuff where the watch and cuff are one. For a smart casual shirt, I also make a two-button angled collar which is a subtle design not seen too often. It adds a touch of uniqueness that my clients are looking for, but without appearing too ostentatious, I call it understated elegance. Which I think in essence is what Savile Row is all about.”
Simple in appearance, perhaps; but very effective.” buddshirts.co.uk
oxboroughtailors.com
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- g o o d t i m es -
Words – Danny Bowman
Arnold Schwarzenegger
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- g o o d t i m es -
An icon of entertainment, Arnold Schwarzenegger effectively invented the modern action movie and has been a constant on the big screen for almost four decades. So as a man synonymous with strength – both physical and political – he has been able to sample the finer things in life, including a passion for wristwatches.
Q: Tell us about the variety of wristwatches that you’ve sported on screen over the years.
in the end I was wearing the watches I wanted to, so it wasn’t so much of interest to me.
Well there have been so many, but the one that I always come back to is the Seiko Arnie H558. I think I wore this in seven different movies. It’s a very sporty watch, hard-wearing, and that was really reflective of the movies I was doing back then. It was a great combination. But I’ve always liked vintage watches as well, because they’ve been big watches.
Q: What is it you like about a wristwatch?
Q: Of course nowadays they’d bring out a new watch for each movie.
Sure, watches are there to be worn. I choose a watch, put it on, get on with my day. I don’t like all that watch winder stuff – it’s so unnecessary. So I don’t show off my watches... I don’t want to do that; I just want to enjoy them.
Maybe that is true! I think wristwatches and movies now go together very well, and people understand how the process works. Back then it was slightly different – there was still a lot of product placement, but
The size, the magnitude, the big stuff ! I don’t like small watches; I want something that really makes a statement. I also like the fact you use different watches for different occasions. I like the way I can choose a different watch for a different setting.
Q: Your watch drawer has courted publicity in the past...
of wristwatch over Piguet... they were good the years in your moments. The Piguet, movies. Do you have a especially. favourite? Wow – that’s a question. Q: You’ve said in I don’t think so. I think the past that kids different watches suit aren’t obsessed about different movies and wristwatches like you different eras. What I were in your youth? will say is it’s certainly been great having so many beautiful watches to wear. I used to wear a lot of Seikos, for instance, but sometimes when you switch to a certain manufacturer, you get the feeling you have found the one that is right for you. The Panerai, the Audemars
That’s true – there are so many other things to occupy them... their computers, their phones. I think it’s a passion you only really pick up in later life anyway.
Q: Through all your film roles, ventures into politics and more, you’ve always come
through as strong and resilient. Is that how you are on the inside as well?
I think so, yes. What is an obstacle? It’s there to be tackled. You go with the setbacks and you fall and you get up and that’s what it’s all about. You have victories, you have defeats and hopefully more victories than defeats.
Q: Have you always been a positive person? Yes, I always was a positive person, but then again I didn’t have any reasons not to be. I
“I don’t like small watches: I want something that makes a statement,” says the actor/former politician
Q: You’ve worn so many different brands - 63 -
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- g o o d t i m es -
mean, from the time I made the decision to come to America – everything that I have achieved is because of America. No matter what people say, when you come to a place like this, where there’s no one trying to derail you, and you know people are helping you and people are positive even though they didn’t believe I could do all the things that I did. But still it’s a very positive place. By nature I was always very positive or upbeat.
Q: Will you do another Terminator? Yes, it’s being written as we speak. I want to keep on doing movies.
I think the older you get the more people think you have other projects away from this, or perhaps no projects at all, but I just want to keep on making movies.
Q: What’s the key to growing older then?
I think the key thing is to acknowledge your age and make fun of it because otherwise, it’s an elephant in the room. So by acknowledging it this way, it takes the curse off. People say, ‘Oh, OK, he’s aware of it and that was a funny way of dealing with it.’ They laugh about it and then they move on. But let’s be clear, ageing sucks! There’s really no upside that I can see. I mean you get
wiser, sure, but overall there’s no benefit.
Q: What quality do you find most important as an actor, or governor, or anything, when you have to face a challenge?
Well first of all, the willingness to take risks, and not to just turn away because something is difficult. So to face and accept risks and also to accept the fact that you could lose and you could fail. Because the thing that holds us back, and why one person is more successful than the other, is because one person is afraid of failure. They don’t want to go the next step, or reach higher, they say, ‘Well for every job, it’s easy to fail.’ When you come from the sports background, like I did, failure is a big part of it because you cannot break a record if you don’t fail along the way. Eventually, you are going to fail, and that’s good practice!
think you can do all this at the same time, and one benefits from the other. It’s not like they are separate. I mean, they are now saying that the more that people exercise, the better that the brain gets stimulated, and the more people stimulate the brain, the better effect it has on the memory and you feel active. I think all of that is intertwined and it’s working together.
Q: The new year will be upon us soon and it’s a time when people look at their fitness levels. Do you have Escape Plan is out now any advice for them? Well, all I will say is it’s really important that we train the body, but it’s equally important we train the mind. I mean, it’s like, why would you limit yourself to one or the other? And I would say spiritually you should develop yourself and work on that, so I
“I keep coming back to the Seiko H558,” says Schwarzenegger, whose new movie Escape Plan is out now
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Words – Ken Kessler
watches you must own Any budding watch collector could do worse than to work towards this basic repertoire of modern classics – solid models that have stood the test of time
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and 10 future classics
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t’s easy to be overwhelmed by the plethora of available wristwatches – new and vintage – when you first fall in love with the wee mechanical marvels. If you consider that wristwatches have been around for over a century, but hardcore, organised collecting has only been a definable movement (no pun intended) since the late 1980s, you begin to experience all manner of conflicting influences and loyalties. What to collect? Where to find the pieces? Do I buy old or new? As with any passion, the best thing for a novice to do is to focus, but that requires the sort of knowledge or experience that only comes with time. (No pun, etc.) How many newbies enter the field knowing inherently that they’ll concentrate on diving watches or chronographs? For that matter, how many recent converts to watch collecting are armed with knowing the difference between a chronometer and a chronograph in the first place? What I wish I had been told when I first started collecting watches nearly 35 years ago was to limit my lust to a specific watch genre. Within a decade, I had narrowed it down to tightly defined categories, so I don’t even turn
my head at watches outside of my remit, such as tourbillons, minute repeaters, calendars and the like. Were I to travel back in time, I would start my watch journey with a simple plan: to collect only classics and milestones, watches so truly exceptional that they’re still in production after decades.That alone gives you the choice of old vs new – not something you can say about vintage watches of limited lifespan, or new watches introduced this century. While the following list will anger fellow enthusiasts, because no two hobbyists ever agree on such lists, be it ‘The Ten Greatest GT Cars’ or ‘Ten Amazing Red Wines’, this is a list of ten watch classics so important that no enthusiast should be without at least one of them in his or her collection. I own seven out of the ten, but it took me 30 years to do so. In no particular order, then…
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Cartier Tank One of the oldest wristwatches, launched a century ago and so stylish that it has graced the wrists of taste-defining cultural heroes of both genders since its inception. From an early on-screen appearance on the wrist of Rudolph Valentino, to Andy Warhol who wore it as jewellery, this is a dress-watch essential.
1 Rolex Oyster Doesn’t matter whether you buy an AirKing or an Explorer, a Submariner or a GMT-Master, every watch lover should own at least one Rolex, even if just for a short while. The company is unique in too many ways to list, the watches are iconic, the quality indisputable. But do the right thing: buy stainless steel.
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Omega Speedmaster Professional Everyone needs at least one chronograph. This is not the place to argue about what is the greatest chronograph of all time, but the Speedy was good enough for NASA to make it standard issue for astronauts nearly 50 years ago. It still is. A paragon of design excellence, it is impossible to fault.
3 Panerai Any Panerai is a solid choice, but people with class and taste choose the base, time-only, manual-wind Radiomirs or Luminors; the rest are for arrivistes. Panerai kicked off the trend for timepieces over 40mm across when it was reissued in the mid-1990s; the rest is history. Simply the ultimate macho wristwatch.
4
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Breitling Navitimer B01 As pilots’ chronographs go, this one is pretty much a definitive – even if nobody needs the circular slide rule around the dial. It was designed specifically for fly guys in 1952, so the credibility is rock-solid, and it looks so techy that it scares away computer geeks. Mine dates from ’64, with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association dial.
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Patek Philippe Calatrava If Cartier’s rectangular Tank is not your idea of a dress watch because your world is round, this sublime creation born in 1932 is the watch of formal mien to complement any suit and tie. Exquisite craftsmanship, a form that defined the genre and defies fashion, mine’s from 1956 and indistinguishable from today’s.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Conceived for polo players so they wouldn’t smash their watch crystals, the Reverso is as old as the Calatrava, and it pre-dates the so-called sports/dress watches of the 1970s by four decades. An Art Deco masterpiece, it can be worn with tux or trainers. And it was good enough for Bale’s Bruce Wayne, too.
7 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms While Rolex’s Submariner is regarded as the definitive diving watch, this gem arrived at the same time and boasted the same virtues: rotating bezel to chart elapsed time, superb legibility, water resistance suitable for scuba divers. And another thing: like the Panerais, it was designed for military users.
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Hamilton Ventura Although its true claim to fame is being the first successful electric wristwatch, history loves it because of the triangular shape. Reissued, ironically, in mechanical form as well as quartz, it earned immortality when Elvis wore his own Ventura in Blue Hawaii. Best worn at the wheel of a 1958 Corvette.
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IWC ‘Mark’ Series Now up to Mk XVII, IWC pilot’s watch defined the look. There’s a triangle at 12 o’clock so you know instantly what is right-side up, the watches are truly anti-magnetic, they were once NATO issue. IWC has modernised them a bit too much, but they’re still cool. I’ll stick to my vintage Mk X and Mk XI.
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future classics Decades down the line, which of today’s upstart watchmakers will be making tomorrow’s modern classics? Here’s our stab in the dark Compiled by Alex Doak
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Hublot Big Bang Maybe not everyone’s cup of tea, but there’s no ignoring the runaway success of its bling-bling Big Bang. There’s plenty of Swiss substance behind the ‘style’ too.
Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 Incredible value for money and a dropdead gorgeous Bauhaus aesthetic are drawing more and more to youthful German brand Nomos. Better still, you get a proper in-house movement to boot. - 74 -
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3 MeisterSinger No.3 Automatik Another relative newcomer of a brand, the idea behind Germany’s MeisterSinger is agonisingly elegant: drop the minute hand and slow down your perception of time.
Graham Chronofighter Oversize There’s nothing of London’s 18thcentury horologist George Graham in this brand, but then again there’s nothing quite like Graham. That chronograph ‘trigger’ is unmistakable and addictively functional.
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Bremont ALT1-C Classic Bremont will go down in history for its innovative limited editions, but people will always buy this, its launch watch of 2006 – the perfect modern distillation of a pilot watch.
Bell & Ross BR01 Instrument Its uncompromising proportions took everyone by surprise in 2005, but look at the fashion-watch world now: massive, blocky squares everywhere. This is the original and best, with genuine cockpit provenance. - 75 -
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Zenith El Primero Striking 10th Admittedly the elder statesman of our list, Zenith’s very recent reboot nonetheless keeps models such as this retro take on its iconic El Primero chronograph fresh and full of promise.
Dior Chiffre Rouge Hedi Slimane’s slick but rock-solid mechanicals have endured at Dior Homme longer than the designer himself, and for good reason. A fashion watch to rule them all.
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A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 This is the watch that set the revived Glashütte institution firmly back on its path to recovery, and its beautifully composed dial hasn’t dated a jot since the brand’s 1990 rebirth.
Bulgari Octo Steel Bringing the Roman brand’s talents as a contemporary jewellery designer to the fore, this elegantly faceted watch is a halo model for the long haul. - 76 -
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The UK’s premier fine watch exhibition returns for its fifth edition to the
SAATCHI GALLERY London
7–9 NOVEMBER 2013 To receive an exclusive offer of 10% off your tickets, please visit www.salonqp.com and enter the code “TEMPUSQP13” or call 020 7428 2916. Confirmed brands A. Lange & Söhne AkriviA Andreas Strehler Armin Strom Badollet Ballouard Bell & Ross Bremont Watch Company Breva Genève Christophe Claret De Bethune Fondation de la Haute Horologerie Frédérique Constant H. Moser & Cie Hermès Hoptroff HYT Watches Jordi Konstantin Chaykin Laurent Ferrier Matthias Naeschke MB&F
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MCT Watches MeisterSinger Meridian Watches Mühle Glashütte Nomos Glashütte Peter Roberts Ressence Robert Loomes Stamford Romain Gauthier Sarpaneva Schofield Speake-Marin TAG Heuer Thomas Mercer U-Boat Urwerk Timekeeper Technik Voutilainen Watches of Knightsbridge Zenith Zeitwinkel
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Turbine Xl, A1050/1 Technology of The Double roTor.
Made by movement
www.perreleT.com
108 New Bond Street, London,
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh
108 new bond Street, london, w1S 1ef W1S 1EF - UK District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM Tel: 020 3372 0108 Tel: 020 3372 0108 Tel: (+84)4 23 234567 www.frostoflondon.co.uk
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Words – Alex Doak
the
Wish list
The annual, global head-scratch for gift ideas commences in earnest this month, but have no fear – Tempus magazine is here to inspire the more discerning and generous souls amongst you, with an eclectic selection, from Westwood wash bags to mohair from McQueen
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For
The lady in your life Fashionista, lady who lunches, glamourpuss… Whoever she is, there’s bound to be something to tickle her fancy here. Always spend as much as you can, chaps – you won’t regret it. And she won’t forget it.
The McQ diffusion line for Alexander McQueen gets all warm and cosy with this Degrade Mohair Dress. £675, harrods.com
This Primavera bangle from Roberto Coin has thin interwoven gold threads that lend elasticity. €2,120, frostoflondon.co.uk
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Scion of a Singapore tannery, Ethan K’s technicolour ‘Wildlife Collection’ minaudières (or evening clutches) are pure class.
Up-and-coming British luxury brand Lily and Lionel’s Papillio Fuchsia scarf will inject an edgy sense of colour into your beloved’s yuletide festivities. £295, harrods.com
Linley’s Erté Box velveteen jewellery box boasts an abalone mother of pearl design inspired by the illustrations of Erté (Romain de Tirtoff). £8,500, davidlinley.com
New jewellery brand Amishi also do a fabulous line in sparkly handbags and clutches, including this Swarovski Dim Lime.
Haute Italian perfume house Xerjoff presents the world’s most refined Iris perfume, IRISSS, in technicolour Murano Glass pochettes. €550, xerjoff.com
Tempus favourite Borgioni has a bohemian edge, borne out by this Diamond Pyramid Double Finger Ring in rose gold.
From £1,150, harrods.com
£699, amishi.eu
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For
The man about town Every dapper gent worth his weight in suede will appreciate our selection of accoutrements, helping him stay impeccably groomed and sharp suited. Circle what you fancy with a red pen and leave this magazine open at the right page for ultimate persuasion.
A velvet dinner jacket from Harrods’ own-label men’s fashion, perfect for party season. £799, harrods.com
Dunhill ventures into unusually ultra-uxe territory with its Croc 24hour bag in black. £25,500, dunhill.co.uk
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More than ten natural ingredients make up Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Assoluta Fragrance. £110, houseoffraser.co.uk
A deeply covetable and highly hygienic shaving set from Italian fragrance brand Culti. £299, harrods.com
Add a touch of exotica to your man’s French cuffs with these safari-influenced Zebra links from Shamballa Jewels.
£11,647, frostoflondon.co.uk
If you can’t afford Jeeves himself, the Gentleman’s Valet Company’s edgy suit stands are a close substitute. From
Fresh from Great Gatsby costume responsibilities, Brooks Brothers now offer would-be Jays this Cedar Shoe Valet. £135, brooksbrothers.com
For the social butterfly, Quintessentially’s Lifestyle Membership is a must. Best seats in the house, every time. From
For the homebound dandy, a pair of velvet slippers from Jermyn Street tailor, New & Lingwood. £250,
£2,500, sambrownfurniture.co.uk
£1,500, quintessentially.com
newandlingwood.com
Made from material almost as hard as diamond, the Guardian provides unique protection for up to six watches.
A rare, gold Longines with enamel dial (1925) from Sotheby’s former watch expert Alex Barter’s new vintage store.
€14,500, doettling.com
£985, blackbough.co.uk
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FOR
The technophile The nerds have inherited the Earth, which means we’re all bound to our gadgets these days. So it’s just as well they come in shapes and sizes as desirable as all this. Remember those multipacks of blank Memorex cassettes you used to get in your stocking? Things have most definitely moved on since…
There are iPad cases, and then there are iPad cases from fashion brands like Chloé. Checking your email was never so chic. £314, monnierfreres.co.uk
Aston Martin specialist Nicholas Mee & Co market a range of ‘upcycled’ gifts as ‘P.Arts’, like this iPod brake-caliper dock. £995, astonstore.co.uk
Branching even further away from laptop cases for sober businessmen, Tumi’s Monster Headphones are their coolest venture yet. £395, tumi.com
Venus of Cupertino’s iPad holders took the London Design Festival by storm with their witty subversion of classical figures. £169, harrods.com
The Libratone Loop wireless speaker will fill your room with sound and great, colourful design. Also in salty grey and pepper black. £399, johnlewis.com
Audi Design has drafted this uber-cool iteration of Leica’s compact ‘C’ camera, available in dark red as well as light gold. £550, leica-camera.com
Difficult to imagine how a USB memory stick could ever look sexy, so Empty Memory have done the imagining for you. In rose gold. £60, harrods.com
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Rapport_Tempus_mag_ad_d_Layout 1 22/10/2013 17:11 Page 1
Rapport Watch Winders The Ultimate Winder for Prestige Automatic Watches
Exclusive online offer for Tempus readers
10% Discount off the website collection Use the offer code “TEMPUS” at the checkout – available for a limited period only
www.rapportlondon.com
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FOR
The houseproud Some seasonal offerings for both his and her enjoyment – stylish accessories, décor and objets to spice up even the most cluttered homes. Definitely a route worth exploring when it comes to those “what do you get the person who has everything?” dilemmas.
If you’re going to enjoy a smoke this Christmas, best make it as classy as you can – something Hermès are good at. £446, harrods.com
The closest Hollywood could ever get to fine art are the posters it produces. This Breakfast at Tiffany’s original (1961) is to die for. £9,500, reelartpress.com
By Boxing Day, board games (and maybe another glass of something) are the key to family harmony. Allow Smythson to help. £360, smythson.com
Breaking away from their fusty image of dusty collectables, porcelain masters Meissen's Dragon Mugs will look great in every kitchen. £321, harrods.com
New to the UK is hip US homewares brand West Elm, whose Dapper animal plates are a sheer joy. £5.84 each,
This silver jam jar from Italian jeweller and silverware house Buccellati will add a touch of Renaissance pizzazz to any worktop. £4,200, buccellati.com
For those who take their home cheffery very seriously indeed, this rosewood Puiforcat knife block is the ultimate countertop accessory. £2,275, puiforcat.com
westelm.com
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Vertigo (1958) US 41 x 27 in. (104 x 69 cm) Art By: Saul Bass (1920-1996) This Gun For Hire (1942) US 41 x 27 in. (104 x 69 cm) Dr. No (1962) British 30 x 40 in. (76 x 102 cm) Art By: Mitchell Hooks (b. 1923)
Tel: +44 (0)7970 846 703 www.reelposter.com info@reelposter.com By appointment only in central London. Exhibiting at
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15-19 January
ORIGINAL VINTAGE FILM POSTERS
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For
The home bartenders To our simultaneous delight and slight shame, Christmas is a merry time invariably made much merrier by the application of alcohol. But as well as lubricating social proceedings, a fine tipple or two always makes a surefire hit of a gift. (Name us one time you were disappointed to unwrap a bottle.)
For a unique gift, Glasgow brewery WEST will provide you a bespoke beer.
£130 (+VAT) per 50-litre keg, 30 keg minimum order, westbeer.com
Alessi retain a design edge, no matter what the object or era. This cocktail shaker in 18/10 stainless steel is mirror polished by Sylvia Stave. £210, alessi.com
Macallan has unveiled a decanter, ‘M’, with creative director Fabien Baron and crystalmaker Lalique. A run of 1,750,
each at £3,000, themacallan.com
Another beautiful bit of cabinetry from Linley, this Trafalgar Triple Tantalus will illuminate the grumpiest Xmas visage.
£4,500, davidlinley.com
Japan’s pioneering whisky brand Yamazaki has teamed up with luxury British leather designer Bill Amberg to create a special collection just in time for Christmas. £1,400,
whiskyshop.com
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Suitable for style-conscious boys as well as girls, Paul Smith’s signature rainbow of pastels will jazz up the most battered of iPhones. £101, monnierfreres.co.uk
One for punk princesses is this Valentino Rockstud Leather Cuff, perfect for a spot of yuletide attitude.
£190, harrods.com
What about a bespoke autobiography for your relatives? Based on interviews with the author by a ghostwriter. From
£2,975, lifebookuk.com
FOR
Stockings Finnish jewellery brand Lapponia is reviving its iconic Flame Bronze range from the 1970s. This Isotta Fraschini ring is fabulous. £295, lapponia.com
Lomography’s Diana camera offers a realworld Instagram – the perfect antidote to our all-pervading culture of ethereal cybersnappery. £119, lomography.com
Exchanging stockings could be one of the most romantic things to do as a couple over the festive season, so best you start compiling that killer assortment of smaller gifts very soon…
Not the cheapest stocking filler, but the Montegrappa Piccola Diamanti fountain pen is a magnificent writing instrument.
£5,650, montegrappa.com
A centrepiece of any coffee table, this Pearl candle from scent gurus Baobab will banish those fuggy Christmas fumes. £65, baobabcollection.com
Confined to your bathroom countertop, only those who get lucky will get to admire your stunning Vivienne Westwood wash bag. £209, harrods.com
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A REFLECTION OF YOUR STYLE INTRODUCING THE STERLING COLLECTION Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom
000_Ad.indd 000_Ad.indd 11 Tempus Dec12 240x300.indd 1 Ettinger Sterling
Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616
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Classic, Sports, Race Private Treaty Sales
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Words - Scott Manson
Driving force Meccaniche Veloci’s thrilling timepieces take their inspiration from the adrenaline-fuelled world of motorsports Is there a watch aficionado out there who doesn’t also harbour a passion for fast cars? The link between the two has been extensively documented, with scores of top brands – from Hublot to IWC to Breitling – linking up with luxury motoring marques to produce limited edition timepieces. Italy is arguably the European nation that’s home to the most enthusiastic petrolheads. For proof, look no further than the obsessive Ferrari fans – the tifosi – who attend F1 races at Monza. It’s little wonder, then, that a motor racing-influenced premium watch brand also hails from the spiritual home of automotive excellence. That brand is Meccaniche Veloci (‘mechanical speed’) which, since 2006, has combined elements of motor engineering with high quality watch craftsmanship, resulting in timepieces that are both striking and unique. These are large, unashamedly masculine pieces, some of which use materials that have been sourced from racing cars, bikes and even helicopters. A statement watch, then, but one that eschews the bling so beloved of other bold men’s watch brands, in favour of a tougher, stripped back aesthetic.
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A MAN’S WORLD Meccaniche Veloci’s Chrono Driver encapsulates the firm’s strippeddown, masculine ethos
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EXTREME SPORT The firm’s blend of motor and watch technology in models like the motorbikeinspired Naked, left, and the CCM (made from the same material as Brembo carbon disc brakes), right, attracts celebrity fans, including rugby star Martin Castrogiovanni
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“The brand was born out of men’s passion for speed and challenges.”
“I discovered this brand at Baselworld, and I fell in love with it,” says Sergio Cielo, founder and president of Cielo Venezia 1270, the Italian luxury goods company that includes Meccaniche Veloci in its ‘brand umbrella’. “Just as the brand was born out of men’s passion for speed and challenges, I love doing challenging things in my life. So I decided to take this challenge too, and launch internationally.” Since then, the brand has continued to evolve. From its initial offering, the Quattro Valvole, with its four movement, four time zone face that took its design cues from a famous four valve Ferrari engine, to later iterations that include a power reserve model and a dual time zone version, they proved an instant hit with a new, demanding breed of watch fans. “Our customers are a broad mix,” says Cielo. “Of course there are those who are passionate about speed, motorsports and watches. But we also have football players – Cristiano Ronaldo is a fan – plus VIPs, CEOs and so on. The Italian rugby star Martin Castrogiovanni is also one of our brand ambassadors.” Unsurprisingly for a brand built on a love of adrenaline-fuelled adventure, the Meccaniche Veloci designers continue to reveal thrilling new models. These include a collaboration with Brembo, manufacturer of disc brakes for sports cars, on the CCM limited edition models. Taking the brake’s carbon ceramic materials as a starting point, Meccaniche Veloci uses high-pressure water jet technology to mould the tough material and transform it into the
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- M ec ca n i c h e v elo c i-
“No one will own the same watch as you.”
In Brief Sergio Cielo What can’t you live without? Definitely my company. Would you rather create a groundbreaking watch or get to walk on the moon for 10 minutes? Walk on the moon... to be inspired for a new groundbreaking watch! When you meet people at a party, what’s the first thing they say when you tell them what you do for a living? The first thing they say is “Your watch is awesome”, before I’ve even mentioned my watch company. If you were put in charge of the watch industry for the day, what rules would you impose? I don’t like to impose rules, I think that being independent and free is a prerequisite for being creative, and for guaranteeing innovation in the watch industry. Having achieved so much already, what’s next for your brand? We’ll work on developing new functions in our watches, by being consistent to our own essence at the same time. We’re planning to cover new market segments.
FAST TIMES The Quattro Valvole Only One range uses material from highperformance speed machines, like the body of a F1 car
thin plates of the dials of this special collection. It’s this kind of sexy tech that’s seen the brand garner such excitement from collectors. The most popular piece to date, though, is the innovative Quattro Valvole Only One. Genuinely one-of-a-kind, each watch in this collection is constructed using recovered materials from the world of speed, such as the fibreglass body of a Ferrari Formula 1 car, a helicopter’s fuselage or the petrol tank of a Moto GP bike. “We literally travel the world to source special components which have been used for speed and sports competitions throughout history. No one will own the same watch as you,” says Cielo. A skeletonised Quattro Valvole and a neat driver’s watch, the Chrono Driver – which offers an adjustable case position for ease of viewing while you are doing some speedy motoring – complete Meccaniche Veloci’s core collections. Of course, there are a number of luxury limited editions also available, plus the occasional suprising bespoke request. Says Cielo: “We were once asked to create a unique piece made of gold and diamonds for a princess from Arabia. I have to be very secretive on her name!” This is a brand that has generated a serious and devoted following in a relatively short space of time and with next year’s Baselworld fast approaching, you can expect Cielo and his team to produce a suitably full throttle offering for the world’s biggest watch show. The Meccaniche Veloci journey has only just begun. frostoflondon.co.uk
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REDEFINING THE LUXURY CHALET EXPERIENCE
PHoToGRAPHY bY YVEs G ARNEAU
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Words – Alex Doak
beyond the alps The third instalment in our luxury skiing series ventures further afield, leaving Switzerland and France behind us, Tyrol before us, and all manner of exotic slopes ahead, from Finland to the Rockies. Here’s Tempus’s pick of the less obvious resorts and their most luxurious chalets - 101 -
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Fairmont Banff Springs, Alberta, Canada North American ski hotels don’t come much grander than this. Built in 1887 in the Scottish Baronial architectural style, it sits in the idyllic surroundings of the vast Banff National Park. It’s been dubbed ‘the castle in the Rockies’ and within its historically elegant facade lie bars and restaurants of varying formalities, an Olympic-size swimming pool and a staggering 1,200-strong staff catering to your every whim. Little wonder National Geographic magazine voted it number five in its Top Ski Runs and Lodges list. fairmont.com
Gandhara, Deer Valley, Utah, USA With artworks by Banksy and mountain views by God, this quirkily designed six-bedroom chalet is the ultimate in ski-in, ski-out heaven. Eleven-thousand square feet and situated in the gated Deer Crest community, it includes a salt water hot tub – perfect for easing aching muscles – plus an outdoor fire pit, bar, pool room, cinema and a floor-toceiling fireplace in the living room. oxfordski.com
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Belmont Estate, Whistler, British Columbia, Canada Just 15 minutes from the centre of BC’s world-renowned Whistler ski resort in the exclusive neighbourhood of Stonebridge, few chalets can boast seven acres of land as Belmont does. The estate is perched on the mountainside, allowing for jaw-dropping views across the valley’s ski runs. But its most unique attribute? It has a helipad right outside the door. Forget ‘ski in, ski out’, hello ‘heliski in, heliski out’. luxurychaletcollection.com
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Sailer Residence, Kitzbühel, Austria Technically still Alpine, but specifically more Tyrolean, the chocolate-box pretty medieval town of Kitzbühel boasts this remarkable property. The owners gave their architect a blank sheet and their interior designers a blank cheque, sparing no expense when it came to top-shelf features such as the touchscreen multi-media system, leather-clad walls and solarium showers. kitzbuehel-lodges.com
Chalet Überhaus, Lech, Austria Nestling in the exclusive enclave of Austria’s Oberlech with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks, this ski-in and ski-out chalet is one of Lech’s most prestigious luxury properties. It combines traditional materials with contemporary design and sumptuous soft furnishings to create an unusually modern and super-sophisticated mountain retreat. The chalet’s relaxation area and spa is equipped with an outdoor hot tub, sauna, hammam, fitness area, massage room, snooker room, bar, library, and a cinema. brambleski.com
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RHEINPROPERTY Saint-Tropez • Sardinia • Ibiza • Punta del Este • St.Moritz • Kitzbuehel • Megeve • Courchevel • Verbier Experts in Luxury Chalet and Villa Rentals Worldwide www.rhein-property.com • info@rhein-property.de • +49.40.43213610
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29/10/2013 15:25 29/10/2013 11:19
HOTEL, RESTAURANT AND EXCLUSIVE CHALETS AT THE TOP OF RUKA FELL AT FINNISH LAPLAND
BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND LUXURY LOG CHALETS Nestled in the beautiful wilderness of Finnish Lapland, the accommodation and private chalets of Hotel Ruka Peak offer a comfortable stay for business, conference and holiday travellers. Our hotel restaurant serves Scandinavian food in a setting surrounded by exquisite natural beauty. Our delectable dishes are prepared from fresh, locally grown ingredients, and served with quality wines from our own wine cellar.
Chalet Ruka Peak +358 8 868 4100 rukapeak.fi
Find a perfect skiing holiday in the arctic Lapland. Ruka_new ad_Ad.indd 1
29/10/2013 14:46
- s k i s p ec i a l -
Villa Vuosselinranta, Ruka Peak, Finland With its interior clad spectacularly with wooden logs, this new villa by deepest Finland’s secluded lake Vuosselijärvi is a fail-safe choice if you want to spend your holiday in utter serenity, yet still close enough to services, such as slopes and restaurants. And if it’s booked up? You won’t go far wrong with the neighbouring Ruka Peak Chalet hotel. rukapeak.fi
Located by a secluded lake in Finland, the Villa Vuosselinranta allows you to spend your holiday in utter serenity Bighorn, Revelstoke, Canada Situated in the heart of Canada’s heliski terrain and, of course, boasting its own helipad, Bighorn is a full service private retreat that, post-ski, also offers a gastronomic odyssey courtesy of the in-house awardwinning chef. There are eight bedrooms, each with their own iPad and gas fireplace, in this outstanding property. It sleeps up to 15 people, and includes an immense living area, pool room and more. If bad weather prevents helisking, the nearby lift can whisk you to the top of Revelstoke Mountain Resort, which offers the most vertical feet (5,620) of any resort in North America. firefly-collection,com
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One Happo, Hakuba, Japan Could this be the most impressive ski chalet in Asia? Undoubtedly. One of the best in the world? For its size, most probably. Location, amenities and utter exclusivity combine to make One Happo truly unique. Directly facing the main Happo resort gondola and the slopes that hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics slopes, the chalet offers unbeatable access to world-class powder. There is a wow-factor at every turn: a glass top pool table (the first ever imported into Japan), a floor-to-ceiling glass wine room, even a teppanyaki counter. And every en-suite bedroom either offers views of the mountain or the beautiful secluded Wadano forest. onechalets.com
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BERING whItE cER a mIc collEc tIoN Hig hTe ch - Cer amic and st ainle ss ste e l
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29/10/2013 14:48 29.10.13 13:16
- s k i s p ec i a l -
Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch, Colorado, USA Modelled in the style of the grand lodges of Yellowstone and Yosemite, this log-and-stone property sits next to the slopes of Beaver Creek. From Spago, the Wolfgang Puck-helmed flagship restaurant, to its marble bathrooms with soaking tubs, superb 21,000-sq ft spa and lively après ski scene, this is one of Colorado’s finest hotels. ritzcarlton.com
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29/10/2013 14:49
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29/10/2013 14:49
- Q&A-
Words – Sam Teimao
The chief of
beef
One of British food’s greatest advocates is a New Zealander – chef Marcus Verberne
In his new recipe guide Roast – A Very British Cookbook, Marcus Verberne – head chef at Roast – describes the food at his London Bridge restaurant as “simple but well-executed.” The same can be said of its handsome interior. The 120-seat, glasssided, upper-level dining room was once a Covent Garden floral hall, before being shipped over the river and rebuilt above Borough Market. Now a listed building, this architectural delight creates a wonderfully light and airy atmosphere in which to enjoy some of the UK’s finest produce. Marcus, a Kiwi who has lived in Britain for more than ten years, two of them spent running Roast’s kitchen, has tried his hand at scallop diving, grouse-shooting and seashore foraging in the name of research for the book. There are more than 150 recipes, including several from the restaurant’s menu, such as the perennially popular pork belly. They roast around 140 whole bellies a week and, after sampling one on a recent visit, Tempus can confirm that it’s a cracking (or should that be crackling?) hunk of meat.
Tell us about your background? I worked for Mark Hix at The Ivy, Caprice and Brown’s Hotel. But I first fell into the business by happy accident, taking on a lowly dish-washing job in a kitchen in Wellington, New Zealand. What can we expect from your book? Like all chefs I’ve gathered plenty of tips in my career, many of which are here, such as how to poach an egg and how to achieve perfect crackling. Pour boiling water over the meat before cooking, to encourage the rind to shrink away from the fat, since you ask. I’d barely set my foot through the door
at Roast before I was taking the staff on road trips in my quest to unearth the best British produce to include. When did your love affair with British food begin? When I arrived here in 2001, really. I think it’s important to use ingredients close to hand wherever you are. My experience of cooking game started with Mark Hix and developed from there. Have you ever tried hunting? The grouse shooting trip in Dumfries, Scotland, was a dream come true. I’d
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-q&A-
“To cook for my childhood idol Indiana Jones was a great pleasure”
been cooking it for so many years – it’s my favourite because it’s so unique – so to actually shoot and cook one was great. I also do a lot of fishing. I’m just back from a holiday in north Russia fishing for pike in a remote river. It happened on a sunny 30 degree day in phenomenally beautiful surroundings. There are a lot of references to Scotland in the book, what is your connection? I love Scotland, it reminds me of New Zealand. I love driving around through the Grampian mountain range. Really, most of what you’ll find in the book is a preview of what to expect on the menu in the future, plus stories of quirky finds from across the British Isles. There are ideas for working with currently seasonal produce such as winter greens, sprouts and root vegetables, and game fans will find variations on winter roasts using geese to grouse, rabbit to red deer shanks. Where else in the British Isles do the recipes in your book take us? The Isle of Mull for scallops, Lancashire for poultry and Essex for pork. Do you shop at Borough Market, below the restaurant? I call it the best outdoor supermarket in London. I’ll buy rare wild boar that is bred in Cumbria and we buy our vegetables from a visiting wholesaler. I also go to Neal’s Yard Dairy for cheese.
Tell us about the foraging firm you use. Miles Erving is a foraging guru with a phenomenal knowledge of British herbs and vegetables. There is big section in the book about our foraging adventures together. In the kitchen, I use mushrooms and berries, a lot of wild herbs, cress and salady stuff. They create interesting, robust flavours. More chefs are using these products these days, just as huntergatherers used to years ago. So you don’t miss cooking for The Ivy’s roll call of celebrity diners? I was never phased by anyone, apart from Harrison Ford. To cook for my childhood idol Indiana Jones was a great pleasure. What did you eat for your last meal? I went for dinner at 22 North Street, a fantastic little restaurant close to Clapham Common. I had a wood pigeon wellington for starter and a lamb rump. What are you like to work for? Cool and collected or a sweary Ramsay-style boss? Probably a little bit Jekyll and Hyde but I care about my staff. We are a family, because we spend so much time with each other every day. What has been a greatest extravagance? I went to surprise a brother who lives in America, but he wasn’t there. He was visiting me. We crossed over in the air and I didn’t find out until I heard my messages
when I got back. I burst into tears. I hadn’t seen him for about three years. We’re moving in to the holiday gifting season – what purchase have you got your eye on? I don’t like to part with money but one day I’d really like to have a nice car, an old classic two-door Mercedes from the late 60s or early 70s, before they started to go square-shaped. And with Christmas coming up, I’d love to get a new Apple Mac. My current laptop is about to expire. What are your plans for the future? I originally intended to visit the UK for two or three years, travel Europe, and then head back home via South East Asia. But I stayed here. I still want to do a six-month trek though. You see, I don’t spend money on ‘things’, as such. The bulk will go on travelling and new adventures, I love that sort of thing. Saying that, I see myself staying put for a while to see where it takes me before, eventually, it would be nice to take my wife back home. My UK adventure has a way to go yet though!
Roast: A Very British Cookbook is on sale now roast-restaurant.com
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30/10/2013 29/10/2013 09:40 17:10
- J ew ellery -
Words – Alex Doak
m en o n ly BOLD STATEMENTS: Theo Fennell’s Gandhi ring (above) and King’s Road Railings Bracelet (right) epitomise his quirky style
New to Frost of London is an Italian jewellery brand for alpha males to get truly excited about. Sales director Alberto Muraro explains why Barakà’s intricately articulated pieces could be the butchest baubles around
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CLUB CLASS: A pendant from Barakà’s Clipper range, inspired by a famed ‘flying boat’ passenger aeroplane of the 1940s
Wearing jewellery that’s fancier than a watch, signet ring, wedding ring, gold necklace or cufflinks? Rest assured, chaps – it’s officially an ‘OK thing to do’ these days. Indeed, the phenomenon of men choosing to enter a jeweller’s without the forceful nudge of a female companion is no longer something made up by the fruitier fashion pages: the community of male jewellery lovers is expanding. And they’re not just rock stars, rappers, post-GapYah trustafarians or Russell Brand wannabes; more and more men are seeking out jewellery they like and styling it in a way that works for them, whether it’s with their suit or ripped jeans. Critically the old adage of men being less driven by labels and ‘fashion’ than women, and more by long-lasting quality and ‘style’ applies just as much to their jewellery habit as their wardrobe. Which is where Barakà comes in. An old Italian name (where else other than Italy, the heart of progressive men’s style?), Barakà was revived at the hands of master Vicenzan goldsmiths Muraro Lorenzo in 2011 and quickly distinguished itself for innovative materials, including ceramic, carbon fibre and aluminium, not to mention some clever allusions to industrial engineering.
Reassuringly blokey stuff, in other words – stuff that’s built to last and not beholden to passing whims. “After gaining fame in the Italian market,” explains sales director Alberto Muraro, “we decided to expand abroad – and above all into the growing men’s jewellery market – by investing in the only brand that has been in the international men’s market for over 30 years.” So, if it isn’t your typical fashionista buying Barakà, who did Muraro hope to attract? “The Barakà customer is a businessman who travels and knows how to enjoy life,” Muraro
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Andaz Liverpool Street hotel is delighted to announce a festive Christmas collaboration with East London’s iconic Old Spitalfields Market which will be unveiled in late November. Andaz will literally be going Ape this season and feature a golden gorilla Christmas window installation, designed by Old Spitalfields Market. In contrast to the famous winter wonderland windows of London’s West End shops, the Christmas windows of the 5-star boutique hotel will be lighting up the East London streets in a whole new light by using inspiring local talent. The festive collaboration will see the hotel’s windows and some public spaces transform into a series of installations to reflect the spirit of the hotel, Old Spitalfields Market and the unique character of the East End. Chosen for their fun, free and joyful reputation, the playful and creative fusion of apes and Christmas provides an eclectic parallel to Andaz Liverpool Street and Old Spitalfields Market. From fanciful banana-themed pies, to tasty King Kong cocktails and eye-catching ape displays, guests can’t help but go Ape and get into the Christmas spirit at Andaz Liverpool Street.
london.liverpoolstreet.andaz.hyatt.com
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- J ew ellery -
“The Barakà brand has been characterised by its technical and innovative products, and cutting-edge production methods” continues. “He’s very attentive to jewellery design, but also to how it was come up with, created and made. He doesn’t want just an attractive object, he also wants something that is well-made and expresses his personality.” Muraro’s family firm has been thriving in northeast Italy since 1975, as the designermakers of the Comete brand – domestically a huge operation, with pieces crafted so ornately as to demand a vast in-house workforce of 60 master goldsmiths, plus some impressively hightech CNC manufacturing technology. Which stands their latest venture in very good stead: “The Barakà brand has always been characterised by its technical and innovative products, as well as its cutting-edge production methods,” says Muraro. “We’re adding value by bringing out the artistic value.” Barakà’s signature feature, and undoubtedly the most appealing feature for men of a practical bent, is its cardanic joint – a clever articulation featured throughout the 1980s in Barakà’s Gold
CHAIN REACTION: This Clipper chain of rose gold and steel is an elegant encapsulation of Barakà’s technical excellence
Bracelet with Double Cardan Movement. Otherwise known as a ‘universal’ joint, a cardanic joint couples two rigid rods via two gimbals, commonly used in driveshafts to transmit rotary motion. Fittingly, the first person known to have suggested the cardanic joint’s use for transmitting motive power was an renowned 16th-century Italian mathematician, Gerolamo Cardano. The current collection features bracelets with one of these joints between every link, giving an addictively tactile feeling on the wrist, not to mention a highly techy, bicycle-chain
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- J ew ellery -
tower of strength: Barakà’s 316L bangles are made from a grade of steel used by New York’s Chrysler Building
In Brief: Alberto Muraro
What is the best piece of jewellery you could have? The piece that, each time you look at it, makes you happy and fulfils you. At times, a simple piece of satin is much more valuable than a diamond for the sole reason that your child gave it to you. Which is more valuable: a famous painting or the first drawing your child made? Apart from jewellery, cars and homes, what is your favourite luxury dream? Being connected to the world is increasingly necessary and essential. The Barakà customer loves travelling and I think that a private jet is one of the best luxury items you can invest in. What does the world of jewellery have to learn? Those who continue selling ‘just’ jewellery are not in step with the times. For example, in another sector you could say that in order to sell a mobile phone the phone just has to work… Today, knowing how to sell also means knowing how to communicate and make the end customer perceive your ideals. If the customer shares them, then he or she will purchase the jewellery in order to express those ideals in turn. If you weren’t a jeweller what would you be? A jeweller! Who is your hero and why? Henry Ford and I’ll explain why with one of his quotes: “If I had asked people what they wanted, they would have said a faster horse, but instead I wanted to sell them a car.” Each morning I wake up and think about Barakà in the same way.
“We feel that architecture and engineering in all their forms are the maximum expression of human knowledge” look. New to this year, however, is the most extraordinary expression of this technology yet: the Clipper collection. There’s a real Boy’s Own story behind Clipper. It celebrates the adventure of the Pacific Clipper – a famed example of Boeing’s B-314 flying boat, whose twisted propeller blades inspired the helicoidal form of the jewellery’s cardanic links. The ‘five-star hotel for the air’ famously covered over 31,500 miles throughout December 1941, having been diverted to New York from Auckland at the outbreak of the Pacific war, to avoid Japanese fighters. If that’s a little militant for your liking, there’s always Barakà’s 316L collection instead. ‘316L’ refers to a particular grade of stainless steel used in the spire of Manhattan’s Chrysler Building, which in 1930 was the tallest in the world. The design of every bracelet plays on the skyscraper’s
iconic Art Deco motifs, combining said 316L steel with gold and diamonds. These arched and fluted elements are, in turn, set sparingly on a pair of woven-cable bangles, which offer extraordinary resistance to stress – not entirely unlike the cables on a suspension bridge. “Our theme collections are the pride of our brand,” says Muraro. “That’s exactly why these collections are inspired by great manmade works, both technical and artistic. We feel that architecture and engineering in all their forms are the maximum expression of human knowledge.” Whether you choose to buy into that or the plain fact that Barakà’s pieces look and feel super smart, the end result is a chap wearing jewellery that’s doing the impossible: making him look even more manly. baraka.it
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29/10/2013 16:08 29/07/2013 16:36
- t r av el t r en d s -
Words – Juliet Kinsman
r e t n i w t o h t s i l al cool, t s a o c y r tempora er luxury travel n o c o t s l city hote f the best in wint c i s s a l c From e pulse o h t s e k a t Tempus
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1
Barbershop grooming
Get a cut-throat shave at SpaQ in QT Sydney or hop in a cutting chair at Gentlemen’s Tonic Express at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, the excellent Sicilian barbershop at London’s Dolce & Gabbana store (ask for master barber Carmelo Guastella) or Rudy’s Barbershop at the Ace New York for a hip snip. The Art Deco Mandarin Barber has been offering traditional shaves for half a century at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong since it first opened. qtsydney.com.au, dolcegabbana.com
2
too cool: (Clockwise from top): D&G's London barbershop; Lucknam Park; Curtain Bluff
Luxury all-inclusives
Don’t get stung at the end of your stay with eye-watering bills brimming with unanticipated add-ons. Invest in a hotel where you’ll be lavished with all you need without any nasty surprises. No, we don’t mean resort to a Club Med, choose
intimate hideaways such as Antigua’s Curtain Bluff which has been throwing in all meals, drinks and watersports for ages. Hermitage Bay is a honeymooner’s haven on the Caribbean island which also offers this all-in approach in style. curtainbluff.com, hermitagebay.com
3
Afternoon tea
Clotted cream, scones, a piping pot of Earl Grey – not a new combo, granted. But we’re keener than ever for silver cake-stands piled with pretty pâtisserie – particularly for special occasions. Order afternoon tea at Cliveden House hotel and get a side of glorious National Trust gardens; emulate Downton Abbey with a whirl at Lucknam Park hotel and spa near Bath; simulate French-capital finesse with The Balcon’s French Goûter by Pierre Hermé Paris at Sofitel London St James. lucknampark.co.uk, sofitelstjames.com
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Running to the sun just got easier, with British Airways opening a new direct route to Gran Canaria
4
Direct flights
Running to the sun just got easier. Chase Canary Island rays with British Airways’ new route to Gran Canaria and, from spring, Austin in Texas and temperate Malta are also just a nonstop BA flight away.
5
Medi-spas
Benefit from doctor-led therapies without holidaying in a hospital. Spain’s Sha Wellness Clinic provides threeday programmes hinged on a macrobiotic diet. QMS Medicosmetics promise resultsdriven surgeon-devised skincare in the Thalassa Spa at Anassa Cyprus. Ayurveda and yoga are luring us to Shillim Estate Retreat & Spa, a new all-villa 70-acre sanctuary with 150 treatments in India’s Sahyadri Mountains. Nutrition and antiageing are the cornerstones of Dr Nyjon Eccles’ Vita Health programme at Verdura in Sicily. At Bulgari in Knightsbridge chiropodists await in Margaret Dabbs’s Foot Clinic. To lose weight, follow Margherita Missoni and Princess Caroline
of Monaco to medical detox spa Hotel Espace Henri Chenot, Palace Merano, Italy. hilton.com, anassa.com.cy, bulgarihotels. com, shawellnessclinic.com
6
Hammam time
Move over, Morocco, when it comes to world-class steam baths. Hit the hammams at Cowshed Spa in Soho House Berlin, Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay in Turkey, Akasha at Conservatorium in Amsterdam, Pride of Britain’s Seaham Hall in County Durham and the Spa in Dolphin Square. kempinski.com, seaham-hall.co.uk
7
fly away: (Clockwise from top): Shillim spa; Niyama Per Aquum; Kempisnki Barbaros Bay
Marine biologists
Resident ecology experts who are carrying out precious marine conservation are treating divers to superlative underwater knowledge at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort in Fiji, Azura in Mozambique, Gaya Island Resort in Borneo, and in the Maldives at Park Hyatt Hadahaa and Niyama Per Aquum. fijiresort.com, niyama.peraquum.com
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Tel 01798 875300 or 07831 645551 www. gavingardiner.com
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29/10/2013 14:56
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29/10/2013 14:57 04-10-2013 14:13:35
- t r av el t r en d s -
Winter Thrill: (Clockwise from top): Bale Mountain Lodge; ballet in Paris; Ten Manchester St
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Pocket binoculars
you’re partial to a puff of Cuba’s finest. Cedarwood humidors and cosy outdoor seating areas (‘cosas’, if you will) are headline acts at Ten Manchester Street in Marylebone, The Wellesley and the Lanesborough Hotel in Knightsbridge, and Shoreditch’s Boundary. tenmanchesterstreethotel.com, thewellesley.co.uk
Forget the giant gadgets our granddads had – Swarovski Optik’s fresh-from-the-lab Compact CL is the ultimate slim-fit pair of super-sharp spotters. From £540. swarovskioptik.com
9
Birdwatching in Ethiopia
The Wattled Crane, Rouget’s Rail and Ruddy Shelduck are among the many rare species awaiting twitchers at the new 15-suite luxury retreat Bale Mountain Lodge in this mist-shrouded East African woodland. Original Travel offers three-night stays from £489 a person. originaltravel.co.uk
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Culture and literature
Ballet buffs, stay at Grand Hotel de Bordeaux and get exclusive tickets for Prokoviev’s Romeo & Juliet at L’Opera National de Bordeaux, 16 December–1 January. Book lovers, brace yourselves for Damian Barr’s Literary Salon which has arrived at London’s Café Royal. Near Marrakesh, Fellah Hotel invites you to browse a bulging multi-lingual library in its arts centre. ghbordeaux.com, fellah-hotel.com
Cigar terraces
London may have long since banned lighting up indoors, but it’s a smokers’ paradise if
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fun in the sun: Smith & Family's childfriendly resorts include Soneva Fushi in the Maldives
Get suitcases taken from A to B with baggage concierge First Luggage; on return dump the bags at Johnson cleaners for washing and ironing
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Courchevel belle
Usurping the celebrated restaurant of the same name, this season welcomes La Bergerie 1850 to the upscale Trois Vallées resort. A glam seven-bedroom chalet, it boasts a pool and cinema and a fleet that includes chef, chauffeur, masseur and beautician; from €125,000 a week. labergerie1850.com
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Unisexy baggage
Designers grabbing our attentions for their totes are JW Anderson with his limited-edition Nikon 1 camera case (£85) and Moncler’s trio of black aluminium quilted-interior lightweight luggage from Rimowa, from £990 store.nikon.co.uk, rimowa.de
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Luggage concierges
Get suitcases ferried from A to B with First Luggage – they’ll transfer skis in a tick, too. Prices start at £49 and vary according to size, weight and destination. When you’re back, dump your bags at a Johnsons dry cleaners and have contents washed and folded within 48 hours; from £10. firstluggage.com, johnsoncleaners.com/holiday-laundry
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Quality family time
Parents with boutique-hotel tastes, don’t despair. Decent kids’ clubs and sophisticated adultfriendly offerings do cohabit as Smith & Family, the Mr & Mrs Smith’s spin-off collection, attests. From classic grande dames to guesthouses with gusto at Smith-recommended properties, imaginative amenities are laid on thick. The most spoiled of sprogs will be especially wowed at Soneva Fushi’s new kids’ club extraordinaire in the Maldives. The manta-ray-shaped Den has its own pool with slide, pirate ship, zip line, disco, dress-up room cinema and Mocktail Bar smithandfamily.co.uk
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In-room mixology
Cocktail culture has trumped room service in many city slicker hotels. In New York, The James is a dream for bedroom bartenders; perfectly proportioned sets of ingredients can be sent up to go with the recipes printed on pint glasses. At The Surrey, their own cocktail connoisseurs will load up a bar cart with all the fixings for your favourite blends and swing by to give lessons. jameshotels.com, thesurrey.com
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toast of the Town: The Surrey and The James are two of several New York hotels to offer in-room cocktail mixing
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swiss Bliss: (All picture boxes): Le Grand Bellevue, a soon-to-open boutique hotel in Gstaad
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Swiss casual luxury
The billionaire playground of Gstaad has a new boutique cutie, Le Grand Bellevue. Opening just before Christmas, this reincarnation of a 100-year-old-palace hotel is a colourful Bamford-spa-studded stay run by Daniel and Davia Koetser. They met here a decade ago, when it was the Grand Hotel Bellevue. Now, as hoteliers, they promise a uniquely relaxed take on high-end Alpine chic. bellevuegstaad.com
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Valmont facials Coworth Park has imported this exclusive Swiss anti-ageing range from its sister Dorchester Collection hotel in Paris and now its sophisticated Berkshire spa lavishes skin with a sumptuous dose of oxygen and collagen. coworthpark.com
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Fruit managers
in Williamsburg, Public in Chicago, and Miami’s Townhouse. Rapha’s performance roadwear is ideal for urban bikers allergic to Lycra: lapelled jackets and wool-blend trousers come in durable fabrics and reflective add-ons. Get the gear from The Rapha Cycle Club New York City, now open at 64 Gansevoort Street in NYC’s Meatpacking District. rapha.cc
Roman Abramovich is said to have a dedicated member of staff just to keep all bowls replenished only with the perfect ripe-and-readyto-eat specimens on his superyacht and in a holiday home. Maybe we should all demand one?
20
City cycling
Berlin and Amsterdam have long been at it, and now, following the success of Paris’ Vélib and the London’s Boris bikes, New York’s got Citi Bikes (citibikenyc.com). All hail the places that loan you free wheels: The Bowery on the Lower East Side, King & Grove
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25/10/2013 15:11
Servicing • Sales • Restoration • Bodyshop
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29/10/2013 14:58
- M oto r i n g -
Words – Kyle Fortune
pocket rocket With the fabulous 4C, Alfa Romeo is back in business
Price
£45,000
Performance
0-62mph (0-100km/h) 4.5 seconds (claimed)
Top speed 160mph
Engine
1.7-litre four-cylinder turbocharged petrol 240hp
Transmission
6-speed TCT automatic, rearwheel drive
Construction
Carbon fibre/steel
Even the hardest nosed automotive cynics find themselves going weakkneed at the sight of an Alfa Romeo. That said, the firm’s made itself difficult to love in recent years with forgettable hatchbacks rolling out of Italian factories and nothing - the limited run 8C Competizione excepted - to get excited about. Then Alfa showed the 4C concept, and the world has taken notice again. And so it should. The 4C takes Alfa back to its core of sports cars. A lightweight two seater with carbon fibre in its construction sounds suitably exotic, even if its 1.7litre turbocharged four-cylinder petrol engine doesn’t. Still, that turbo helps the 4C’s unit deliver a healthy 240hp, enough Alfa claims to get it to 62mph (100km/h) in 4.5 seconds and on to a potential 160mph maximum.The purists decry Alfa’s fitting of a twin-clutch, paddle-shifted automatic transmission, but it’s a good box and Alfa says there are no plans to make a manual version.
Inside it’s all refreshingly honest and simple, the passenger seat is fixed unless you pay for optional runners to move it, while the cabin is relatively stark. The carbon fibre weave it’s made from is apparent in there, though the steering wheel’s cut-off bottom leaves a little to be desired. The driving itself is unabashed fun. There’s loads of grip, though you can fiddle with the settings of Alfa’s ‘DNA’ controller to liberate more control away from the traction and stability systems. Do so and the 4C is even more enjoyable, its performance feeling greater than the stats might suggest - primarily down to its low weight. Alfa Romeo has re-discovered its mojo, the 4C a hot enough property to give its mundane hatchbacks a real halo boost in desirability. Not that any of that matters, as it’s an Alfa Romeo, which by definition means it’s beautiful, and you’ll want one. Only with the 4C, the beauty runs more than skin deep.
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BMW i
The Ultimate Driving Machine
BE THE FIRST. BECOME ELECTRIC. BOOK YOUR TEST DRIVE TODAY.
Some people follow. Others like to lead. If that’s you, you might be interested in the electric BMW i3. Designed to combine the benefits of an electric car with ultimate driving pleasure, it launches in November. And, if you sign up for a test drive from 16 November, you might even be one of the first people in Britain to drive it. For more information or to arrange a test drive* from 16 November, call us on 020 3073 5000 or visit www.bmwparklane.com.
TEST DRIVE 020 3073 5000
BMW i Park Lane
77 Park Lane, London W1K 1QB 020 3073 5000 www.bmwparklane.com
Official fuel economy figures for the BMW i3: mpg N/A, CO2 emissions 0 g/km, nominal power output (electric motor) 75/102 kW/hp at 4,800 rpm; peak power output (electric motor) 125/170 kW/hp, total average energy consumption per 62 miles/100 km (combined cycle) 12.9 kWh, customer orientated range 80–100 miles, total range (combined cycle) 118 miles. Official fuel economy figures for the BMW i3 with Range Extender: mpg 470.8, CO2 emissions 13 g/km, total average energy consumption per 62 miles/100 km (weighted combined cycle) 11.5 kWh, customer orientated range without use of Range Extender 75-93 miles, weighted combined cycle total range 211 miles, weighted combined cycle range without use of Range Extender 106 miles. Figures may vary depending on driving style and conditions. *Test drive subject to applicant status and availability.
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Immediate aesthetically pleasing results following treatment with biocompatible hair implants.
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RACING GREEN CARS
1968/F Jaguar E-Type S1 4.2L FHC Extensively Refurbished, RR Velvet Green. £84,995
1999/S TVR Griffith 500 V8, 340 BHP, 350ft.lbs, 30,000 Miles. £25,995
1971/K Jaguar Beacham E-Type 4.2 V8 SC, 6 Speed Automatic, Ice Pearl White, 3,880 Miles. £145,000
1968/F Jaguar E-type S1 & half 4.2L 2+2 FHC, 98,000 Miles. £26,995
2005/55 TVR Sagaris 4.0L Speed Six, Two owners, Mystic Black Pearlescent, ONLY 13,000 Miles. £55,995
2001/51 TVR Tuscan 4.0L Speed Six, Cascade Blue, 46,000 Miles. £19,995
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29/10/2013 15:02
- h ot els -
Words – Chris Elwell-Sutton
Stealth wealth Dukes combines elegance with understatement “Your dry martini sir?” asks a man in an impeccably-pressed white jacket. He’s friendly, but exudes an air of reverence (for the drink, I think, rather than for me) as he places before me the largest, purest and strongest incarnation of 007’s preferred refreshment that I have ever tasted. It’s all very low-key, but somehow feels like quite an event. I’m sitting in the cosy, elegant comfort of the drawing room at Dukes, a 105-year-old London five-star with a very rich history. The bar here is where Bond writer Ian Fleming drank regularly and where, legend has it, he was inspired by the hotel’s barmen to pen “shaken, not stirred” as the dashing secret agent’s perennial words of micro-management
to anyone who offered to fix him a drink. As I work my way through my martini, it occurs to me that this understated delivery of such a powerful and classic offering is representative of the distinctly English appeal of this fabulous hotel itself. It’s taken me a little time to find the place, unsullied as it is by anything as vulgar as signposting and hidden down a pretty, leafy, private cul-de-sac in the heart of St James’ that has over the years hosted many famous
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- h ot els -
names including Oscar Wilde, Lord Byron and Chopin. Sandwiched between Green Park and St James’s Palace and a stone’s throw from the Ritz and Buckingham Palace, it’s a little strip that estate agents would dub ‘super prime’ within the already highly exclusive Mayfair district. Both London’s most aristocratic wine merchants and the majority of the capital’s most resolutely blueblooded gentlemen’s clubs are based within a radius of a few hundred metres. This is probably exactly the way Dukes likes it. There’s no cheesy piped music here, no rewards programme and no nightclub. They don’t seem to be looking for passing trade. That’s not to say that those working at the hotel are stand-offish. From receptionists to barmen and porters, the staff are warm, helpful and cheerful. But there is nonetheless a sense of old-fashioned manners here, of standards that are not to be broken. From the tranquillity of the mews outside to the muted colour scheme of the room, the cool, classic marble bathroom fittings and the behaviour of other guests, I find that Dukes also conveys a sense of peace, civilisation and relaxation that’s rare in this part of town. There was a time, perhaps 100 years ago, when the majority of top-drawer London hotels might have looked and felt very similar. Although banning smoking indoors is a concession to the 21st century that Dukes was ultimately obliged to make (grudgingly, I’m sure), the new cognac and cigar garden, elegantly festooned with white linen canopies overhead, provides a suitable backdrop for those seeking to re-live the days when the norm after a good dinner was a brandy and a satisfying smoke in tasteful surroundings.
As I leave this sanctuary and stroll past the bigger establishments on Piccadilly, it strikes me that part of what ensures that Dukes retains its character is the hotel’s ability to attract the right kind of guest. While many of its Mayfair neighbours appear determined to shout their ostentatiously blinged-out credentials from the rooftops and accordingly attract the type of visitor likely to be impressed by such gimmicks, Dukes remains quietly determined in its devotion to a low-key, luxurious, old-school ethos. So raise a glass (a dry martini, naturally) to another 100 years of this venerable St James’s institution. dukeshotel.com
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A GREAT HOME NEEDS A GREAT GARAGE
Your garage can complement your home and provide a perfect backdrop for your cars. It doesn’t have to be “just a garage”. We can survey, design and install. Call now for your FREE design survey.
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Not all car detailers are the same Over 20 years, Paul Dalton of Miracle Detail has earned a reputation for offering the highest standards of car detailing in the world. Using state-of-the-art equipment and only the highest quality products, Paul’s experience and expertise shine through on every car that passes through his studio. The Miracle Detail benchmark for perfection is the industry standard for quality and service.
Services offered include Luxury Vehicle Detailing • Paintwork correction Gtechniq & Modesta super durable paintwork glass coating • Window water repellant treatments • Interior & leather cleaning • Wheel refurbishment • Bodyshop facilities Unit 45 Dunsfold Park Stovolds Hill Cranleigh Surrey GU6 8TB +44 (0)7788-441150 | info@miracledetail.co.uk | www.miracledetail.co.uk
V I E W I N G S
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S T R I C T L Y
B Y
A P P O I N T M E N T
29/10/2013 15:21
- s u p eryac h ts -
Words – Ellie Brade Rule the Waves: Adela won a top prize at this year’s America’s Cup superyacht race
ey es o n t h e p r i z e One of the many thrills of this year’s America’s Cup was an official superyacht regatta held alongside the event in San Fransisco The 34th America’s Cup will go down in history as the most memorable in the race’s 162-year history for many reasons, including the cheating scandal that engulfed defenders Team Oracle USA, the tragic loss of British sailor Andrew Simpson and for the sheer speed and performance of the boats themselves. Above all, the regatta will be remembered for the biggest comeback in yachting – and arguably sporting – history, staged by defenders Team Oracle USA who snatched the Cup from challengers Emirates Team New Zealand’s grasp, in a tense final series of racing that broke the hearts of New Zealanders around the world. New Zealand had got within
one race of winning, leading 8-1, but the Americans clawed back their lead, winning an astonishing eight races in a row to take both the regatta and the Auld Mug. With such thrilling racing on offer, it’s no surprise that superyachts and the America’s Cup have have long been a winning mix, with yachts traditionally flocking to the host city to watch the racing first hand. 2013 was no exception and many superyachts – both sailing and motor – travelled to San Francisco to witness the racing spectacle. Back in 2000, host city Auckland held the first superyacht regatta to be raced alongside the Cup – the Millennium Cup - and the tradition has continued ever since. In 2013 the
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- s u p eryac h ts -
written on the wind: Adele was a strong runner up in the Cup’s superyacht race
Cup organisers officially hosted a superyacht programme alongside the Cup for the first time, offering a race right at the heart of the action, with superyacht racing taking place on San Francisco Bay during racing in the lay days of finals. Many of the superyacht fleet’s most iconic sailing yachts took part in the regatta, including 30m Chrisco, 55.5m Adela, 55m Adele, 90m Athena and the replica of the original Cup winner America. With such a diverse fleet, racing followed the International Superyacht Rule with staggered starts with every yacht in it to win it. Good winds and fine weather made for superb racing conditions and with close racing throughout by the end of day two Adela and Adele were neck and neck, drawn for the lead. Going in to the final day of racing it was all to play for. First across the line, America sailed consistently well and won the final race, but in the end it was Adela’s regatta, thanks to her win on day two. Racing was rounded off with prize giving, with awards
including the Boat International America’s Cup Superyacht Regatta Trophy for Adela, and the Showboat award for Royal Huisman-built Athena, who put on a spectacular display by sailing under full canvas during race one. US Representative for Dutch yard Royal Huisman, Michael Koppstein, was hugely complementary about the spirit of the event. “Racing superyachts on the Bay with Alcatraz as a turning mark, and having the likes of Oracle and Emirates Team New Zealand foiling all around you, is all the atmosphere the superyacht regatta could have hoped for,” he said. With the Auld Mug back in the hands of defenders Oracle Team USA, the build-up to the next America’s Cup has already begun. What the format will be is yet to be announced, but one thing is for certain; wherever the Auld Mug goes, superyachts will not be far away. Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence, part of The Superyacht Group.
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25/10/2013 17:09
EST 1990
S E E , H E A R & BE L I E V E
A
family run business for over 20 years, with the aim of bringing
the finest quality hi-fi and audio/ visual products to the most exclusive customers with a discerning taste. We work directly with architects, interior designers and end users to make sure our equipment and installations meet and exceed their expectations.
We Provide The Following Services The Full & Latest Range Of Bang &
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Visual Solutions Full Local/Worldwide Installation Service Commercial & Domestic Installations Touch Control Audio/Visual, Blinds/CCTV,
Lighting & Air-con/Heating Full A/V Project Design & Management Full iPhone/iPad Control Possible Wireless Multiroom Interest Free Finance (Subject to status,
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Riverside Hifi LTD, 422 Richmond Road, East Twickenham, Middlesex, TW1 2EB TELEPHONE 020 8892 7613 | WEBSITE www.riversidehifi.com | EMAIL riversidehifi@mac.com Anthem / Audio Research / Bang & Olufsen / Bose / Copland / Crestron / Denon / Eclipse / Elan / Epson Projectors / iLight / Jadis / Kaleidescape / Krell / Libratone / Lutron Lighting / Magico / Marantz / Martin Logan / Michell Engineering / Mirror / Waterproof TVS / Monitor Audio / Nuvo / Panasonic / Primaluna / Pro-Ject / Rako / Roksan / Schnepel / Sim2 Projectors / Sonus Faber / Spectral / Teac / Theta Digital / Thorens / Transparent / Wilson Audio
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22/05/2013 10:18
- T EC H N O LO GY -
Words – Alex Pell
around
sound
Now capable of astounding sound, portable speakers offer a world of truly wireless audio. We survey the best of the bunch
Harman Hardon Go + Play Wireless
Once it’s time to get the party stared, you’ll be glad you slung a Go + Play into the back of the Range Rover for your weekend away. Its vintage boombox styling and prominent stainless steel handle showcase what this beast is all about: serious bass in your face via either Bluetooth or standard audio line-in. The USB connector is purely for recharging a playback gizmo and, speaking of which, the Harman will munch through eight D-cell batteries pretty quickly.
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Loewe Speaker2Go
Loewe is better known for swanky TVs that can be customised to match most types of décor. The Speaker2Go is an elegant speaker, not dissimilar in size to a chihuahua, and with a surprisingly meaty bark. It has a few tricks up its sleeve, such as the ability to employ the higher-quality variant of Bluetooth known as apt X or to be paired instantly with any gizmos with NFC technology. It will also act as a hub for conference calls. The Loewe goes louder than you’d expect given its slim dimensions and it doesn’t distort.
£279, loewe.tv
Libratone Zipp
This natty Libratone is surely the only portable speaker with woollen zip-up covers. Most rivals rely purely on Bluetooth or a line-input to connect up a music source but the Zipp supports Apple’s Airplay and also plays with most other brands of smartphone. Weighing in at about 1.8kg means you won’t want to hump it too far.
£370, libratone.com
Geneva Sound Model XS DAB+
Add a slither of sonic sophistication to your hotel dressing table with this neat little speaker inspired by the classic travel clock. Its clamshell design unfurls to reveal an LED that acts as a clock and a display for the (optional) digital radio. The faux-leather finish evokes a time when travel was all about luxury. Where the Geneva scores is sound quality. This speaker won’t shake the room yet it makes music eminently listenable despite the modest proportions.
£219, genevalab.com
Audio Pro Allroom Air One
Most portable speakers only offer a choice of Bluetooth or a conventional 3.5mm line input to connect a musical source. The Audio Pro is unusual in that it brings wi-fi to the party by supporting the Apple Airplay standard and, crucially, it also plays nicely with most other types of smartphone too. You will be astonished that such good sound can emanate from such a relatively small box. Clad in a choice of red, white, or black leather.
£500, audiopro.com
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18/03/2013 29/10/2013 16:46 15:23
- T R AV EL -
Words – Claudia Avila-Batchelor
pa s s p o r t t o
pleasure
Forget its package-holiday reputation: Mallorca offers upscale, sophisticated luxury to the superyacht crowd I take a mouthful of the foie gras, its velvety texture melting in my mouth. I lose myself in the richness of apple and figs, and a touch of the silky liquorish mousse sees me sated. It feels like Michelin-starred, big-city dining but I’m a million miles away from a metropolis. In fact, the closest conurbation to me is the party zone of Magaluf, home of debauched goings on since the birth of the package holiday. Granted, I may be in Mallorca, but this is the sophisticated side – an upmarket aspect of the island that the Balearic bigwigs are keen to promote. The Spanish live for pleasure and I am ready to embrace my Latin side. The locally produced
wine, Malvasia, is a masterpiece created from grapes that were extinct just a hundred years ago, but resurrected by forward-thinking producers 30 years ago. As I sip some, I give silent thanks to their oenological skills. Mallorca was always the more cultured big sister of the nearby Balearic islands of shy Minorca and its naughty sibling Ibiza, but as it became known as a package holiday destination some of the gloss came off. It’s now rebuilding its former reputation with millions of euros of investment, particularly in the lesser-known Calvia region. Situated on the island’s southwest, it’s fast becoming a cultural and epicurean centre
for the superyacht crowd, further validated by the recent inauguration of Port Adriano, a $96m architectural wonder designed by Philippe Starck. This is a place that’s truly got its mojo back. We saw many sides to Mallorca on our trip, each one a unique delight. The divinely preserved village of Valldemossa, a short 20-minute drive from Palma, was one showstopper. Founded in the 13th century, the village boasts striking architecture that projects an air of mystery, due in part to the area’s many secret passages. The compact stone homes and cobbled streets attract canny visitors
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ISLAND LIFE: Mallorca combines historic sites like the village of Deia (left) with more traditional holiday activities
Mallorca is the more cultured big sister of the nearby Balearic islands of Minorca and Ibiza
like ourselves, keen to immerse themselves in historical walks, while checking out the village’s many gastronomic offerings and quirky fashion boutiques. Chopin lived here with the French writer George Sand in 1938, renting ‘cell number 4’ in the Cartusian Monastery. He composed some of his most famous works during that time, no doubt inspired by his travel companion (and also his lover), Amandine Dupin, a female writer who famously penned her novels under the male nom-de-plume of George Sand. The religious, conservative village was scandalised by Dupin’s novel A Winter in Mallorca, where ‘George Sand’ took her revenge on locals who were not kind
to her, by skewering them in prose. Personal items and relics can be seen at the monastery today, including Chopin’s Pleyel piano, whose keys gave birth to so many iconic compositions. A short drive away, perched in the bosom of the Teix mountains, is the similarly stunning area of Deia, home to high rollers seeking refuge from the heat of the Calvian coastline. At its heart lies a medieval village, nestled among olive groves and overlooking lush valleys. Its size keeps it free from the tourist hordes: tour buses are too large to gain access, making the honeysucklescented maze of streets and Michelin-starred restaurants only available to a select few in the know. Artists and writers have for many years
secluded themselves in this heavenly corner, inspired by its beauty and protected by its privacy. Poet and writer Robert Graves made his home here – now a fascinating museum. Those looking for a rather more lively experience are also well served.The region boasts some seriously hip clubs which showcase global music artists on a weekly basis. Top bands can be seen at Mallorca Rocks, sister to the Ibiza Rocks brand, and there are also superstar DJs spinning their tunes in nightspots such as BCM and Pacha. Newcomer Nikki Beach is also a must-check, particularly for those arriving by boat as it provides a tender service to the many floating gin palaces that pull up on its shoreline.
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- T R AV EL -
STAY… In the heritage-protected Melia de Mar hotel, an adults-only property, with some of the best contemporary design in the Balearics. Overlooking the King of Spain’s summer palace, there is arresting art on every floor and every spacious suite. All rooms have a sea view and the staff and service are impeccable. Head chef Marcos Carreros lets his Latin passion run wild with delightfully delicious creations. And if over indulging makes you feel guilty, there is a gym boasting a range of fitness classes and a bliss-inducing spa. The diamond facial and restorative massages will leave you spiritually lifted before returning to pleasureseeking in the hotel’s extensive wine cellar.
Rates start at €225 per room B&B, melia.com
EAT… At Simply Fosh. Walking into the restaurant is a visual treat in itself, almost like entering a contemporary art gallery. The food carries on the modern theme, with proprietor Marc Fosh’s signature cuisine showcasing a combination of fresh local ingredients and unique culinary ideas. He is the only British chef to have been awarded a Michelin star in Spain and having sampled his mango gazpacho I can see why. Reservations recommended.
reservas@simplyfosh.com, simplyfosh.com
STROLL… Around La Lonja and the old city and get lost in the rabbit warren of cobbled streets. The architecture is quirky and the vibrancy of the city is infectious. The imposing cathedral is a gothic giant of epic proportions and is truly worth a visit. Nearby on the Passeig del Born are designer stores and traditional cafes for people watching. On Sundays live flamenco bands perform here allowing locals and keen visitors to show off their dancing skills.
If your interests are on more of a health and fitness bent, then you’re in good company. Calvia is a hotspot for cyclists – the swooping mountain passes seem to have a mini peloton at every turn – and many Olympic athletes have made it a winter training base. There are, of course, more traditional holiday activities on offer too, such as fishing, scuba diving, kite surfing and hiking. Mallorca may still be home to plenty of cheap and cheerful package holidays but – as with the case of George Sands – not everything you see here is what it appears to be. Scratch the surface and the island reveals itself to be a cultural and social magnet for those seeking discerning aural, epicurean and visual pleasures.
seemallorca.com
Fly London to Palma with ba.com.
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- T R AV EL -
Words – Nicola Venning
T h ree m o re d est i n a t i o n s t h at g o t t h e i r mojo back High Holborn, London Situated between the West End and Clerkenwell, this area has always struggled to host any hotspots for the cool bar-hopping crowd. Sure, there are a couple of decent restaurants around there, but few places to enjoy a postwork sundowner. Pats on the back, then, to luxury hotel brand Rosewood which has just opened its first London hotel in the area. The clubby, colourful bar – at the heart of this beautiful 1914 Belle Epoque building – is a must-check. rosewoodhotels.com
Phuket, Thailand
Look beyond the brash bars of Patong and head out a little to discover the tropical, tranquil paradise that is Sri Panwa, a collection of 52 luxury suites dotted around the coastline. Look out from your glass-boxed bedroom to the powder white sand of the private beach below, soak up the breath-stealing sunset views and congratulate yourself on finding arguably the area’s finest hotel. Lavish doesn’t even begin to describe it. sripanwa.com
South Beach, Miami It seems hard to believe now, but Miami was once a deeply unfashionable city, filled with ageing tourists in search of ‘early bird’ dinner specials. Today, particularly in the South Beach area, the story couldn’t be more different. Look no further than the Art Basel Miami show (5-8 December), which brings together the best in contemporary art. Stay at the Mondrian hotel, which has a quirky Sleeping Beauty castle-style design. Or check out the Shore Club, an art lover’s paradise, with works hung around its two pools. morganshotelgroup.com
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CHALLENGE YOUR SENSES WITH THE NEW BEOVISION 11 A masterpiece of sound, picture and digital entertainment. Hear, see and feel this Bang & Olufsen Smart TV. Come visit our store to experience BeoVision 11 up close.
“Looking for a truly luxurious TV that delivers a great performance too? This is it”. B&O BeoVision 11, WhatHiFi.com, Feb ‘13
YOUR HOME’S NEW MUSICAL NERVE CENTRE The beautifully crafted BeoSound 5 Encore is the ultimate window into your music library. Effortlessly flip through your complete album collection, and delight in the pure music inside. Listen to crisp notes soar out of your stereo in high bandwidth, true to the original recording. You will rediscover songs you forgot you loved, and feel the chills you got the first time the music met your ears. • Connect your music with an external NAS or hard-drive, USB stick or smartphone • Easy and intuitive three button navigation • Access more than 13,000 international radio stations
Bang & Olufsen of Richmond Riverside Hifi LTD, 422 Richmond Road, East Twickenham, Middlesex TW1 2EB Tel: 020 8892 7613 Email: riversidehifi@me.com Website: www.riversidehifi.com
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- m o m en ts i n t i m e -
A magnificent man and his flying machine In May 1927, when American aviation pioneer Charles A. Lindbergh set his double record in Spirit of St. Louis – the first and longest (33 hours and 30 minutes) nonstop transatlantic flight from New York to Paris – Longines was there to time his exploit: on Long Island, New York to see him off and at Le Bourget airfield to record his arrival. By 1931 the Swiss watchmaker and Lindbergh himself had collaborated on the design and build of a revolutionary navigational instrument, which allowed aviators and navigators to calculate their longitude during long-distance flights. Used in conjunction with a sextant and a nautical almanac, the Lindbergh Hour Angle watch was based on the ‘Second-Setting’ model Captain Weems created in 1927: a rotating disc watch, enabling the wearer to synchronise the second hand with a GMT signal. Once longitude is calculated and combined with latitude, the pilot had his exact geographical location.
longines.com
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The finesT selecTion of award winning chaleTs in Meribel and courchevel aT The hearT of The 3 valleys in The french alps, The largesT skiing area in The world.
Reservations: Tel. +44 (0) 1844 344955 email. info@alpineinfusion.com website. www.alpineinfusion.com 000_Ad.indd 1
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29/10/2013 11:40 16:53 27/09/2013