Streetwear Trendmap by tessa jones

Introduction With the ever-changing look of fashion, we are now constantly bombarded with new styles and trends. High street stores are always changing and adding new lines to keep up with consumer demands for fast fashion. This report will investigate what a trend is, how they come around, and how they are forecast. Also, the role of social media will be looked at as well as the role of magazines in the fashion industry. It will then explore the impact that the fashion industry has. The second half will focus one key trend that is dominating the high street stores. It will look at the origins of the trend and make sense of why the trend is relevant now, and how it might develop over time. The third section will be a styled shoot based on the chosen trend.

Methodology Primary and secondary research was carried out to compile this report. Websites such as WGSN, Vogue and Mintel were used to help identify this seasons trends. Books and articles were also used to gain a better understanding behind the theories of fashion. Shop safaris were carried out to see what styles were in store and what our selected style looked like in Nottinghamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high street stores. Face to face interviews were conducted with people wearing the trend to understand why they wore that style, interviews were also done with members of staff.

Trends Fashion is constantly changing. The market is always being flooded with new styles, consumers can accept these new styles, they then reach a point of maturity and then go out of fashion, this is a fashion cycle. There are four stages to a fashion cycle, introduction, growth, maturity and decline. Many different aspects can affect the incline of a trend, social, economic, and cultural influences and the media, these can affect the way a trend looks and is adopted. Trends can be influenced by art, music, politics, architecture and many other aspects. Forecasters and retailers must predict how prevalent a trend will be and its longevity. Trends can be formed from different social groups and trickle up and gain popularity or they can trickle down from haute couture. These two theories have been chosen as they relate to the trend that is discussed in the second half.

The diagram above shows, the rate of acceptance and duration of styles. All styles have different life cycles. A Fad style is short lived, it gains popularity in a short amount of time and soon reaches its peak, then it will die out soon after. A fashion style grows at a slower rate than a fad style, it gradually grows as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s being accepted then it rises rapidly to reach its peak, then it slowly loses momentum and declines. Classic styles tend to start growing at a slow rate, they then become widely accepted. A classic style has the staying power; it stays in fashion for a long period of time.

Trickle-down theory. Came from the upper/ elite class and filters down to other levels of class.

Trickle-across theory.

Trickle-up theory.

Styles move through social classes horizontally rather than vertically.

Subcultures create a style or trend and it gets filtered up the pyramid rather than down it.

These theories have changed and developed over the last few years, but they demonstrate where new fashion innovations come from and how they are accepted by different levels of class.

Forecasting

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Trends are a reflection of the society that responds and buys into them, so it is vital to understand and project-forward the current Zeitgeistâ&#x20AC;? David Wolfe Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the job of the fashion forecaster to predict what is going to be popular in the coming years. They do this by studying the Zeitgeist, here they can focus on macro trends and see how they might change and what can come out of this trend. Forecasters will travel to the fashion capitals of the world to observe how consumers are living, behaving and thinking as well as looking at what they are wearing. Forecasters must also collect information on consumers and their buying behaviours and market research. Changes in society, culture and in the economy, are all taken into consideration as well. Art, music, media and architecture is also observed to see what patterns emerge from there. Companies need to pay attention to what fashion forecasters predict to develop their product range and their marketing strategies, this means that the can easily target their consumer and gain loyal customers. Brands then can also look at predictions to help them make long term strategies.

The Role Of Social Media J In Fashion Social media isn’t just for posting pictures of your dinner and liking your nan’s Facebook posts, over the past few years we have changed the way we consume content. We no longer rely so heavily on magazine to show us how the latest trends will look. Fashion brands are doing more to communicate with their consumers to gain a better understanding of what they want and build stronger relationships. Fashion bloggers who have created a rapport with their readers now often team up with a brand to bring sponsored content. Fashion bloggers can bridge the gap between consumers and brands. These influencers can drive trends and help consumers connect with a brand or style in an easy way. A study by Ypulse shows that 27% of American’s trust advice given by online celebrities and 26% would buy a product they recommended. Creating trust between influencer and consumer is utterly vital. These consumers view the influencers as friends, therefore they are more likely to buy a product recommended by the influencer. 72% of the British participants in the Ypulse study shows that online celebrities are most trustworthy in fashion. And 55% would take style advice from a fashion vlogger compared to the 45% that would take style advice from a fashion show. A mighty 40% of 13-34 year olds from the UK say they’re more likely to consider buying a product their favourite online celebrity recommends. Yet millennials are becoming sceptical about the amount of sponsored content they see, with 50% having unfollowed someone for posting too much sponsored content. And 21% of UK millennials feeling that they have been misled by a recommendation from an online celebrity. Influencers need to find the right balance between the amount of sponsored post to usual posts, if they want to keep their followers happy and keep their trust.

The Role Of Print Media J In Fashion Before the internet, magazines used to be the first port of call for finding the latest styles. This has changed over the years; thanks to modern technology we can now shop the latest styles straight from the runway. According to an article by the BBC, many fashion magazine sales are down with Vanity Fair losing 10% of sales and Vogue losing 3%. Millennials want to get their data as quickly as possible, as these days they can find out any information with just one click. Celebrity gossip and fashion gets shared so quickly across the internet, that its feeding millennials’ appetite for it, therefore they aren’t turning to the magazines they previously read. It could be argued that the role of magazines has changed. Magazine journalists must create online content that suits millennials, it must be easy to get a hold of and grab their attention. The human attention span is less than that of a goldfish (Microsoft, 2017) Readers attention span is much shorter than it used to be, so magazines need to know exactly who their reader is and what they want so they can curate articles that suit them. As we scroll we see many bits of information that we can choose to engage with or ignore. Making sure that people engage with the content is now truly important.

“Fashion is not about looking back. It’s always about looking forward.” Anna Wintour We have seen how magazines such as Vogue, Glamour and Cosmopolitan now utilise social media to post content. With these social media sites posting content that grabs the users’ attention, it’s easy for the user to swipe up and read full articles, meaning they can easily pick and choose which one they want to read and ignore what they don’t. It’s all about creating engagement with the reader, without this you won’t get them coming back. Consumers want to feel connected, brands/magazines can now do this by creating content and engaging with them in a fun and creative manner. It’s never been easier to connect with a brand thanks to social media, they now open up the dialogue with the consumer to get better insight and to make the reader feel heard. “Magazines will never die because there is a visceral feeling of having that thing in your hands and turning the pages. It’s so different on the screen” Magazine Designer George Lois.

The Impact Of Fast Fashion “Fast fashion is a business strategy which aims to reduce the processes involved in the buying cycle and lead times for getting new fashion product into stores, in order to satisfy consumer demand at its peak” [Barnes, D. L., & Lea-Greenwood, M. G., 2006] Stores no longer stick to the classic two ranges a year, one being the Spring/ Summer range and the other being the Autumn/ Winter. Stores now have to keep up with all the trends that come around. Companies like Zara are now putting out 24 collections a year. Compared to other goods in the UK clothing prices have decreased, yet the UK are spending over £44 billion on clothing annually. And over £140 millions’ worth of the clothing ends up in landfill each year [fFaresin, 2018] This has major effects on the planet. The textile industry is the second most polluting industry after oil [Greenpeace, 2014] Fast fashion puts pressure on the manufacturers of clothing. Retailers want high quantities of garments, but want to keep the costs as low as possible, therefore they outsource the manufacturing to developing countries. Here they are over worked and underpaid. Working conditions are poor and hazardous. Only 2% of Bangladeshi textile workers are paid a living wage. The majority of garment workers in Bangladesh earn little more than the minimum wage, set at 3,000 taka a month (approximately £25), far below what is considered a living wage, calculated at 5,000 taka a month (approximately £45), which would be the minimum required to provide a family with shelter, food and education. [waronwant.org, 2018] Since 1990 there have been over 50 factory fires in Bangladesh accounting for over 400 deaths. [waronwant.org, 2018]

Second Section

Trend Identified

eetwear tr

Key Streetwear Brands

Supreme

Bathing Ape

Vetements

Stussy 18

Palace

Off-White

Anti Social Social Club 19

Diamond Supply Co

Designer Streetwear

River Island

Shop Safari A shop safari was conducted in Nottingham, looking at high street stores to see what streetwear items they had to offer. TopShop had the most amount of streetwear alongside Urban Outfitters. The predominant colours for this trend are green, yellow, red/orange, and black. There has been a rise in Vetements style sock trainers in Primark and River Island. Bum bags have also been very popular and have been seen in Topshop, River Island, Urban Outfitters, Primark and Zara.

Top Shop

Top Shop Fisherman hats have also made a comeback, they were seen in Urban Outfitters, Topshop and River Island. Caps have been back in style for a while, this may be a way to update and evolve the look. Tracksuits with poppers down the legs have been popular and Kappa tracksuits are evident in Urban Outfitters. Many items were placed at the front of stores, proving that retailers think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a popular look with their customers. Some stores had moved their streetwear items to their own section. Talking to members of staff they stated that this trend is most popular with 16-25 year olds, and people are wearing it because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy and cool to wear, and many celebrities and musicians are fuelling the trend.

Urban Outfitters

All photos are authors own Taken on May 1st 2018

Primark

Stripes are a key pattern within the streetwear trend, they can be seen placed down the sides of garments, such as down the side of the trouser leg, or down the sleeve. These tend to be a bold stripe with one accent colour and a white stripe on either side.

H&M

Urban Outfitters

Brands that have had a major come back in the streetwear trend are Ellese, Fila, Kappa and Champion. These are all having a big comeback, they had fallen out style for a few years, but seem to be very popular again, with teens in particular. Millennials tend to comment on how they remember these brands when they were young, and how they never really liked the brands terribly, but are buying them now partly for nostalgic value and because they have come back in fashion.

Top Shop

All photos are authors own Taken on May 1st 2018

“I’m influenced by

social media and the celebrities I follow”

“I’d prefer to be wearing Gucci or Balenciaga, but the high street stores offer some good streetwear, which suits my budget much more”

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think this style reflects my personality, I also like how easy it is to style, I can throw a few pieces together and it looks good. I do see loads of other people wearing it in the streets but everyone styles it a bit differently, which is cool. I mostly buy from high street stores, or onlineâ&#x20AC;?

What’s Driving The Trend Where this trend used to be heavily inspired by surfer and skateboarding culture. It also encompassed elements from hip-hop and punk culture and their DIY aesthetic. Over the years the look has adapted but always shared the same oversized features it always has. Since the birth of streetwear, it has gone through fashion cycles, it bubbled up from a Californian sub-cultures, it was popular for stages throughout the eighties and nineties, but didn’t become a mainstream look until the 2000’s with the rise in popularity of skateboarding thanks to Tony Hawk and hiphop music dominating the charts. Today, in the UK the look is still heavily inspired by the music scene especially hip-hop and grime. There has been a shift in attitude towards streetwear in recent years. Many luxury designers would steer clear of streetwear brands, and wouldn’t dream of associating themselves with them, yet, streetwear has captured the heart of the new generation. Upmarket brands are tapping into street style to refresh their looks and young buyers are driving the shift. [BOF, 2018] We have seen a rise in collaborations between streetwear and luxury brands. Supreme x Louis Vuitton helped LVHM one of the biggest luxury conglomerates earn $23 Billion USD in the first half of 2017 [Hypebeast, 2017] This collaboration was a huge success. Brands that are shaking things up seem to grab millennials attention, Vetements for example, take mundane objects like highlighters and the DHL logo and create something amusing and clever that millennials want to buy. It’s something they have never seen before, and believe it’s breaking the mould. “Millennials have new values but similar human desires to both flock and differentiate themselves as they assert their identities” [BOF, 2018] This shows that millennials want to stand out from the crowd and show who they are as individuals, but also want to be a part of something, that streetwear culture can offer. Streetwear brands love to create hype around a new launch. Supreme are well known for their latest drops, releasing on a Thursday. Consumers queue for hours just to buy these new pieces. “The thing about the queue is that it’s not strictly about buying products, it’s the modern meeting place” “It’s about being part of a community based on shared passions, particularly important for streetwear and sneaker fans” Jian DeLeon [ WGSN, 2018] The consumers feel as if they are a part of a tribe, this feeds in with millennials desire to be a part of a group.

What’s Driving The Trend Streetwear is not just a fashion trend, it creates its own culture by forging connections and building a community for its consumers. Luxury labels know that millennials are “At the heart of the shift is a new generation of consumers. Generations Y and Z are already the main growth engine of the luxury goods market, driving 85 percent of luxury expansion last year. By 2025, they are expected to account for 45 percent of total luxury goods spending” [BOF, 2018] These labels must serve this new generation what they want, hence why many designers have teamed up with brands and launched their own streetwear ranges. Sneakers are a big driver of the luxury shoe business, which accountancy firm EY says is the fashion industry‘s fastest-growing area. Gucci, Prada and Balenciaga are increasingly looking to sneakers for growth, putting them in direct competition with sportswear giants like Nike and Adidas [BOF, 2018] Emilio Macellari “there is no brand that is not currently considering its sneaker offer.“ [BOF, 2018] Sports brands such as Puma aren’t scared of the competition though with their chief executive stating “if luxury groups go the sports way it is only positive, if that is a trend that pulls the sneaker market up, we can only be happy.“ Brands collaborating with musicians is also driving the streetwear trend. In 2016, Puma collaborated with Fenty, Rihanna’s brand, their sales reportedly rose by 92% after the launch, proving the undeniable force musicians have on their consumers. For years luxury brands would steer clear of working with hiphop artist as it ‘diluted’ their image [BOF, 2018] Yet, today designers now line up to dress rappers and musicians for events, even featuring them in the front row of their fashion shows [Cardi B at Alexander Wang A/W18 for example] “Certainly, hip-hop is a powerful tool for reaching Generations Y and Z” [ BOF, 2018] Rapper, Kanye West has launched his own streetwear business. His clothing sells out at lightning speed, causing a frenzy. West claims, “It is the 2nd fastest growing company in history,“ yet this hasn’t been proven, but it shows he is paving the way for new streetwear trends [Business Insider, 2018]

What’s Driving The Trend “Sports fashion continues to gain momentum. Thanks to the popularity of the health and fitness market there is continued demand for trend-led sports apparel, with more non-specialists getting in on the action” [Mintel, 2017] Trainers are the most popular category in streetwear, they are also almost twice as likely to be worn as casual-wear than for sports. This fits in with the fact that consumers have a more relaxed approach to their fashion and wear sportswear for everyday use, and even wear it to work. [Mintel, 2017] Demand for sport leisure styles surged 17% last year to $9.6 billion in sales [Forbes, 2018] “ Athleisure rules the runway, and the line between what is an athletic shoe and a casual shoe continues to blur. Brands and retailers must continue to feed this trend.” Matt Powell, senior sports industry advisor at NPD [Forbes, 2018] “marrying comfort and fashion that are getting consumers’ money” [Forbes, 2018] this helps further the streetwear trend.

Conclusion You could argue that streetwear has reached its peak of the fashion cycle, that it has no where else to go and can only decline from here on. Yet, others might argue that it is a classic style, as it has the staying power of over forty years and is continuing to grow in popularity. You can’t move from articles claiming how big streetwear is. It is evident to see consumers are buying it and high street stores are selling it. It’s evident on the runway, and musicians and online celebrities are wearing it. Can the oversized look overshadow the tailored look for much longer, or will there be a revolt against the casual way of dressing? As it stands, it seems to be here to stay for at least another season. Yet, streetwear brands can lose these cult consumers if they don’t play their cards right or are seen as having unpopular views. Kanye West, Owner of the Yeezy brand, lost the trust of many consumers due to controversial tweets. It is not yet evident if this has directly affected sales for the brand, but many consumers have said how they won’t support the brand from here on. This shows how brand loyalty can be so easily lost if it doesn’t align with the consumers views. A greater focus on macro trends such as sustainability should be taken into account. Many consumers want to live a more sustainable life, so brands need to think about what is important to them, and consider what steps they could take to being more ethical. Brands like G-Star Raw teamed up with Pharrell Williams to create the first ever pair of jeans made from recycled ocean plastic. The brand aren’t secretive about how their products are made, they are happy to discuss matters with other brands to spread awareness of their mission and how they can adopt similar attitudes and functions. “Today’s young consumers are hyper aware of brands. However, it’s less about what they are buying and more about what they’re buying into” Jian DeLeon [ WGSN, 2018] Consumers will demand transparency from brands. A study from Nielsen showed that 73 percent of Millennial respondents were willing to spend more on a product if it comes from a sustainable or socially conscious brand. Brands such as Gucci have gone fur free in a pledge to “continue to strive to do better for the environment and animals” brands such as Michael Kors and Armani, followed suit adding to the list of designers who won’t use fur for ethical reasons. This may be a step in the right direction, yet there is a long road ahead until brands show true transparency.

Conclusion It is visible to see that streetwear in Nottingham will continue to grow in popularity, with a relaxed attitude towards casual dressing becoming ever present. High street stores are continuing to stock the streetwear trend to keep up with consumer demand. Streetwear has gone from being anti-establishment to establishment and is now mainstream. True streetwear fanatics may want to rebel against this and turn their loyalty somewhere new. Having said that, streetwear doesn’t seem to be disappearing anytime soon. With Bain & Company having reported that “high-end streetwear helped boost global sales of luxury personal goods by 5 percent this year to an estimated 263 billion Euros ($309 billion)” [Highsnobiety, 2017] Luxury brands will want to go where the money is, and get every last bit out of the Streetwear ‘trend’ before moving on. It’s the devotee streetwear consumers that has shaped the streetwear trend into the culture it is today. `The styles may have adapted over the years, but the consumers who follow it don’t want to see the style become another piece of history. True streetwear trends will always bubble up from the streets, no matter how luxury brands evolve the look. True streetwear looks will come from the people on the streets, and designers will follow.

Styling Shoot

Styling Shoot For our streetwear photo shoot we wanted an urban setting, so we decided against using a studio as it wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t offer the look we wanted, it would look too staged. The beauty of streetwear is that anyone can style it. A studio might have worked if we wanted to play a juxtaposition but we decided against that. We decided on a rooftop in a car park as it had the urban look we wanted and different areas for different shots, such as stairwells and railings to pose on. We chose our model for her look, she was already wearing the style and it suits her perfectly. When we looked at her Instagram page, we knew she would be right for our shoot as she could style a streetwear outfit and she knew how to pose. For the looks, we knew we wanted to incorporate bum bags as they are found in many shops and have been seen on the S/S18 catwalks. We also discussed maybe using fisherman hats, as they are popular, but decided against it as they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fit with the selected outfits. Many of the garments were sourced from thrift shops, which is a great way to get original pieces that are a fraction of the price that you would pay for a similar item in Urban Outfitters for example. We were quite happy to shoot in gloomy looking weather and with grey clouds, as this would help some bright items stand out. Yet, we managed to pick one of the sunniest days for our shoots! Normally seen as a good thing, it caused a few problems when taking the photographs as they were overexposed. The direct sunlight washed out many of the photographs, as it was a multi-story car park, we used other floors and used stairwells to get the right exposure and shot.

We had decided against using props in our shoot, we felt we wanted the focus to be on the model and not the props we brought. As it was streetwear shoot we decided that the editorial would have to be a streetwear magazine such as Hypebeast or HighSnobiety. A blog post for HighSnobiety was decided on in the end, as it would reach a target audience of 20-35 year old who have an interest in streetwear. The images would have a grain effect placed over it to give it a vintage feel, which is popular on social media at the moment, and Highsnobiety often repost pictures with this effect. Pinterest mood board: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Streetwear projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by Tess Shannon

Mood Board This is one of our mood boards to help inspire our shoot. This was the overall look and feel we wanted, also these were some of the angles we wanted to shoot at, and poses we wanted to see.

Can You Thrift Your Favourite Brands?

Can You Thrift Your Favourite Streetwear Brands? Tessa Jones

Did you know some of your favourite streetwear brands are hiding right under your nose? Hiding in some of the most obvious places yet you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know they were there. We speak to Gabriela a streetwear blogger from Spain, and how she buys her favourite brands but on a students budget. She shares her best thrifting spots and how to get the best deals.

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Picture References Authors own (2018), Streetwear Interview [taken 11/05/18].

Authors own (2018), Streetwear Interview 2 [taken 11/05/18].

Authors own (2018), Streetwear Interview 3 [taken 11/05/18].

Authors own (2018), Streetwear Interview 4 [taken 21/05/18].

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Link has since been deleted

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Authors Own (2018), Streetwear Photo shoot with Gabriela Gerungan [Taken 14/05/18].

Authors Own (2018), Streetwear Photo shoot [Taken 14/05/18].

Authors Own (2018), Streetwear Photo shoot with Gabriela Gerungan and Louis Kandekore [Taken 14/05/18].

Authors Own (2018), Streetwear Photo shoot [Taken 14/05/18].