body positivity by tessa jones

Body Positivity BY TESSA JONES N0733021 2748 WORDS

Title: Body PositivityIs It Just A Trend Indended For Women?

Introduction For years it has been hypothesised that the media has a negative effect on body image, on both men and women. Both genders are subjected to images of the ‘Western’ ideal of what we should strive to look like. For years society has been shown images of unrealistic looking models, leading them to believe that they need to look similar. Research by Hawkins et al (See Cramblitt & Prichard, 2013) found that women displayed in the media are generally 15% below the average female weight, which can lead to women having serious body dissatisfaction, and can cause negative self-evaluation. The ideals that these images portray are internalised and turned into personal goals. If these personal goals aren’t met they turn into body dissatisfaction.

A time has come where people are on the hunt for authentic images. More and more women, want to be shown a diverse range of models and bodies in the media, and want to see women represented in a realistic manner. With all this being discussed, it’s lead to a body positivity movement. Body positivity focuses on self-love and authentic beauty and doesn’t target any specific gender. But when brands pick up the body positive trend, they focus on targeting women, instead of considering both genders. The purpose of this essay is to examine whether brands use body positivity as a marketing gimmick, and to see if it’s a trend aimed at all genders, as it’s truly meant to be.

“No One Wants To See Curvy Women On The Catwalk” Karl Lagerfeld

At London Fashion Week 2018, we saw a group of lingerie clad plus-size models

protesting outside in the cold, scrutinising the lack of diversity in London Fashion Week, and in the fashion industry in general. They want to celebrate womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bodies and shapes and are trying to encourage designers to use curvaceous models on the runway. This was not about skinny shaming models, this was about encouraging the promotion of self-love and body confidence, and truly wanting to see a change within the industry. Some could argue that this is just a promotional stunt created by Simply Be to get more publicity, as the protest soon turned into a photoshoot for the brand. Either way, they do have a valid point, showing the lack of diversity we do see on the runways, whereas, we are more likely to see diversity in highstreet fashion.

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Art Show AW18

One could argue that we saw more diversity at Men’s Fashion Week

in London than we did at London Fashion Week, with gender fluidity being a big theme running throughout Men’s Fashion Week. We saw a diverse range of men modelling for ART SCHOOL, with transgender and non-binary embodying confidence, and these models were of all shapes and sizes. Models were styled in pleated skirts, stocking dresses and some wearing black kitten heels. The brand’s mission is to represent those who have previously been overlooked within the fashion industry (The Love Magazine, 2018)

Rottingdean Bazaar AW18

The brand Rottingdean Bazaar also made a splash at Men’s Fashion week by featuring a range of diverse models ranging in size, that all had a different character to play. One of the most iconic moments from the show was one of the designer’s father walking down the runway in a “We do big sizes” t-shirt. This highlights the lack of diversity that you would usually see in fashion these days.

“I n

so many areas, fashion has lost its sense of fun” FARIS BADWAN Talking

about

Rottingdean Bazaar’s AW18

campaign.

hromat seemed to be the only brand trying to shake things up at New York Fashion Week ’18. They are a popular swimwear brand well known for trying to break boundaries when it comes to diversity. Whilst showcasing their AW18 collection they used a diverse range of models, featuring larger models, amputees, transgender and women from a variety of backgrounds, some models even wearing the Hijab. It seems that the media were far more interested in the fact that they used ‘Cheetos’ as an accessory rather than the diverse range of models they featured. This may be due to the fact that they were the first to use a plus sized model on a runway at New York Fashion Week a few years back, or that they used transgender models last year, which isn’t new for the brand. Maybe the audience is already getting used to this use of diverse models. If this brand has been promoting diversity in the fashion industry and at NY Fashion week for years, why isn’t it catching on with other brands?

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ASOS

Asos has stopped retouching the stretch marks on the women

who are modelling their swimwear. Even seeing models with arm hair is a revelation, something so normal, yet we don’t see in clothing product images.

Asos want to show their customers that seeing stretch marks is

normal, even on UK size 8 models. The brand doesn’t photoshop the slight bit of ‘overhang’ that plus-sized models might have when wearing swimsuits or bikinis. Buying a swimsuit can be a daunting thing for women of any size, with magazines and advertisements constantly asking us if we are ‘beach ready’. Since most people have body insecurities, Asos want to show that even their models have the same ‘problems’ such as stretch marks. This shows the customer that every woman, no matter what size, may have these ‘issues’ and really shouldn’t feel insecure about them.

The

brand doesn’t boast about the steps they take towards being body positive, they don’t bombard their social media telling their customers, or state in their campaigns what they are doing. Brands like Aerie have been promoting their lack of retouched models for years now, but they always mention it in campaigns.

Asos also knows that if women are feeling dissatisfied with their bodies, especially when it comes to buying swimwear, that women aren’t going to buy their products. The more unedited images of models we see the happier we are as customers, and with a higher self-esteem, the more likely we are to buy.

Asos

want to quietly shout out the fact that these models aren’t picture perfect, like their customers, they want to show that everybody has their hang-ups and we shouldn’t worry about them as they are normal. A 2004 a study demonstrated that exposure to images of thin models increases women’s body dissatisfaction (Hawkins, Richards, Granley & Stein).

Yet

this only seems evident for female models, it’s unclear whether they edit photographs of their male models, and trying to promote the same body positive messages to their male customers.

Nike jumped on the band wagon and created a plus size range in 2017,

much later than most high street brands. Nike had been creating clothing up to size XL for ten years, when they created a separate plus-sized clothing section on their website. Nike have said that they haven’t just made their products bigger they have designed them specifically for a fuller figure. Which is commendable because many brands just make items of clothing in larger sizes rather than, designing them specifically to the form of the larger woman. The campaign featured plus-sized influencers, which was well received by the influencers followers, but some criticised that they could have used fuller figured athletes.

These images were praised for being refreshing. The direct gaze from

the women, show how they are in control, showing that they are strong and independent. Again, the women ooze confidence by the way that they are posed, one with her hand on her hip, showing she is tough and can conquer anything, the other with her head back, looking back looking as if she doesn’t care what you think about her. Perfect for a campaign that could easily cause a stir and receive criticism. Nike claimed-

“She is an athlete, period. And having helped fuel this cultural shift, we celebrate these athletes’ diversity, from ethnicity to body shape.”

Yet since releasing the campaign Nike, have only added one photo from

the campaign to Instagram, nor have they mentioned it on twitter since the campaign released. This shows a lack of sincerity for this campaign, it seems Nike want to tick off trending subjects in a campaign such as diversity, inclusivity and body image (which they have done since this campaign)

This campaign was specifically targeted towards women, yet, they haven’t

created a plus-sized range for men. On the Nike website, their clothing goes up to a 2XL, whereas the women’s goes up to a UK size 32, which is a vast difference.

However, the biggest rise in rates of obesity has come from young men,

with an almost ten-percentage point rise in men aged 16-24 classified as overweight or obese from 31% in 2015 to 40% in 2016. (Mintel 2017) Why can’t one of the biggest brands in the world not create a plus-sized men’s range. Nike may feel that because it’s not necessarily a trending topic in the media or with their buyers, they don’t feel the need to do one. 16

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Marketing

Here

media might still argue that the models they use in their campaigns are the norm and using average sized models would seem out of the ordinary and wouldn’t sell. Yet a study by Diedrichs and Lee (2011) found that “average-size models provide a marketable alternative to current media imagery, and that they appeal to both female and male consumers.”

we see an unreleased campaign by George at Asda, a great campaign celebrating diversity and body positivity. This advert isn’t hiding the models’ scars, tattoos, wrinkles and stretch marks. These women show confidence by directly gazing down the camera lens, and by having the models standing together embracing one another, showing that they are all as important as each other, and that everyone is included.

Their finding also demonstrated

However,

that exposing men to average sized women in advertising, can promote positive body image. Imagine seeing a more diverse range of men in advertising, could this also promote a more positive body image for men?

George at Asda has yet to mention anything about creating a body positive/inclusive men’s underwear campaign. Again, showing lack of diversity when it comes to advertising towards men.

2020

It’s not just women that are subjected to seeing the ‘ideal’ body in advertising, men are also seeing unobtainable body types. A study by Agliata and TantleffDunn (2004) found that exposure of images of the ideal male body (lean and muscular) can have ‘deleterious effects on mood and body satisfaction in men’. To this day we still see images of ‘Adonis’ like men in campaigns trying to sell underwear and scent, this is still the norm. These men are meant to be the epitome of desire to women.

In regards to the Men’s Health magazine cover it looks like any stereo typical health magazine aimed at men. It has a celebrity on the cover, who is the main focus. The magazine cover also features aggressive words like slap, make you feel like you need to take quick action, and achieve your goals quick. Again, this magazine focuses on how men need to look a certain way to get the girl, by saying ‘for building serious muscle, and scoring Sofia Vergara’

Botta (see Cramblitt & Prichard, 2013) found that men who read more magazines report higher levels of drive for muscularity, more eating problems. With this being said, magazines such as Men’s Health could use sportsmen who might not have the most ‘ripped’ bodies, but who are still very physically fit. This could promote a healthier relationship with the reader and their body image. Rather than shaming someone to look like them, they can still offer all the tips, but don’t need to encourage the reader to feel the need to get these unobtainable celebrity bodies.

Every muscle on Manganiello’s upper half is beyond defined and practically bulging, which is body is highly unobtainable, without having a very strict, well planned diet and working out with a personal trainer numerous times a week

Is social media paving the way to a more body positive environment?

Yes,

most of us still upload our ‘best’ looking selfies to get the likes that we crave, but we are seeing small changes on Instagram that is opening us up to a more body positive community online. We are seeing the of rise of body positive hashtags with #bodypositivity having over 1,500,000 posts, yet these images are predominantly of females. However, the #brawnmovement which is a hashtag created for male body positivity created by plus size male models only has 450 posts, showing either there is a lot less talk about male body positivity on Instagram, or, that men feel less confident sharing their feelings on the subject in such a public fashion. One way Instagram itself is trying to encourage body positivity is by banning the use of negative hashtags such as words relating to eating disorders, and words such as thinspiration.

Even

Many

Despite

small movements like this can inspire large amounts of people. These types of online trends aren’t necessarily meant to target a specific gender, but tend to resonate deeper with women, who feel more comfortable taking part in these movements and talk about them more openly. When it comes to beauty standards, we have seen a diverse and inclusive environment.

now see men wearing make up in mainstream beauty campaigns, which has stemmed from online trends and popularity from online influencers. However, there isn’t much evidence to show that there’s much conversation about men’s body positivity online, for it to bubble up and become a mainstream trend that big brands will take on just yet.

influencers are starting online trends/campaigns such as Tess Holliday with #effyourbeautystadards, which took a stand against the industry’s vision of what beauty is. There have also been body positive trends such as glitter stretch marks. The point of this is to turn something that is seen as being ugly, and turning it into something beautiful and positive.

these trends, we are still seeing advertisers pick at our biggest insecurities. Advertisers on social media sites such as Instagram use influencers with a large following to promote teeth whitening, hair vitamins and detox teas. The messages contradict one another, no matter how much body positivity we see, advertisers will always feed off our insecurities.

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#GlitterStretchMarks

The use of quotation marks around the words ‘plus-size’ and ‘brawn’ are sarcastic and derogatory. How are men meant to see a positive change if they are reading articles like this? This model is classically handsome, yet the article depicts this man as being some kind of giant who shouldn’t be signed to a modelling agency. Using the word hunk in a negative way which connotes something big rather than its synonym of being a good looking male. The word fat has so much stigma around it. Using the word fat removes any positivity that comes from the word plus-size, which women have fought for so long to be a positive.

Sports Illustratedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first swimsuit issue to cover the #MeToo movement, aiming to empower women. These images were to powerful not to include

Conclusion It’s tough to say whether we are still living in an era of

the ‘male gaze’. Maybe this is why we aren’t seeing a big change in the way men are portrayed in advertisements and the media. We are seeing a range of shops create a more diverse range for larger and taller men, but we aren’t seeing a change in how men are being advertised and targeted.

There also doesn’t seem to be much of a conversation online

about male body positivity. It needs to be spoken about much more for it to take off and become a trend. We see far more women talking about the subject. This could come from a more recent resurgence of feminism, and how fashion is adopting it and turning it into a conversation. Women are rebelling against what the media portray as the ‘norm’ when it comes to how the female body should look. We’ve seen the fashion industry touch on diversity and equality, yet we still don’t see men represented in a diverse way as of yet.

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IMAGE REFERENCES Lauren Benhamou, (2018), Simply Be Protest [ONLINE]. Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2018/02/17/plus-size-women-turn-londonfashion-week-lingerie-protest-lack-curves-7320341/ [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Simply Be, (2018), simply Be street [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BfnqbIKDKg_/?hl=en&taken-by=simplybeuk [Accessed 27 February 2018].

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Chris Yates, (2018), Art Show AW18 Red [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2018-menswear/man-art-school-london/collection [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Lillie Eiger, (2018), Rottingdean Bazaar AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/24681/13/rottingdean-bazaar-aw18 [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Lillie Eiger, (2018), Rottingdean Bazaar AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/24681/0/rottingdean-bazaar-aw18 [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Lillie Eiger, (2018), Rottingdean Bazaar AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/24681/5/rottingdean-bazaar-aw18 [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Lillie Eiger, (2018), Rottingdean Bazaar AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/24681/10/rottingdean-bazaar-aw18 [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Lillie Eiger, (2018), Rottingdean Bazaar AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/24681/4/rottingdean-bazaar-aw18 [Accessed 26 February 2018].

Noam Galai, (2018), Chroma AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/2018/02/190445/chromat-fall-2018-runway-diversity-photos [Accessed 28 February 2018].

Noam Galai, (2018), Chroma AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/2018/02/190445/chromat-fall-2018-runway-diversity-photos#slide-12 [Accessed 28 February 2018].

Noam Galai, (2018), Chroma AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/2018/02/190445/chromat-fall-2018-runway-diversity-photos#slide-9 [Accessed 28 February 2018].

Noam Galai, (2018), Chroma AW18 [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/2018/02/190445/chromat-fall-2018-runway-diversity-photos#slide-10 [Accessed 28 February 2018].

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Asos, (2018), swimsuit screenshot red [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.asos.com/boohoo-plus/boohoo-plus-high-waisted-bikinibrief/prd/7940291?clr=red&SearchQuery=&cid=9577&gridcolumn=3&gridrow=8&gridsize=4&pge=1&pgesize=72&totalstyles=32 [Accessed 4 March 2018].

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