CHARDONNAY How the French do

We think that there are basically two kinds of wine drinkers in the world: people who love Chardonnay, and people who love Chardonnay and just don’t know it yet. You can disagree of course, but that just means we’d like to help you begin your journey to enjoying some great Chardy. There are many to choose from, and some excellent bottles made right here in Aotearoa. But the French did it first and arguably still do it best.

Unfortunately, identifying a French Chardonnay can be easier said than done. Southward in LanguedocRoussillon they make it easy, putting the name right there on the label where logic suggests it ought to be. The Chardonnay here, being warm climate, can be very aromatic with with tropical fruit flavours, generous and usually great value - look no further than perennial customer favourite Paul Mas for proof.

The heart and home of Chardonnay is found in Burgundy, but things get more complicated. At the northern end of the region is Chablis, a small town that is nevertheless a titan of Chardonnay, and to some extent synonymous with it. The cool climate and ancient Kimmeridgian soils combine to produce a lighter style renowned for its purity and unique nature. Chablis is seldom oaked, preserving the citrus fruit and chalky, flinty character that is typical of the area. Any wine labelled as Chablis must be Chardonnay. In Burgundy proper, the soil can be quite different, as is the winemaking. Oak is more common, and the wine is usually fuller and richer. There are many different sub-regions, tiers and labels for Chardonnay in the area. Though not the only white wine made here, it is by far the most dominant.