Hometextile - Sayı 84 / Issue 84

JANUARY 2015 TURKISH HOME TEXTILE INDUSTRIALST’S AND BUSINESSMEN’S ASSOCIATION

ISSUE: 84 JANUARY 2015

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PREFACE Discover the potential I greet you all, my distinguished colleagues, A new year, a new fair; I wish both to be fruitful for each of us.

We expected that a slight recovery would be achieved in the world economy for 2014. Despite the vulnerability could be recovered slightly, we observed that a moderate but an irregular recovery process has been experienced. Improvements have been observed in USA and British economy, on the other hand, recession, lower demand and deflationary risks existed in Euro Zone have been still continuing. Even in Germany, which appears as the strongest economy, an economic contraction, even slightly, exists. Economic developments experienced in France and Italy and some European countries require that EUO Zone nations should be careful.

In the World Economic Outlook Report issued in October by IMF; worldwide economic growth rate estimation was reduced to 3.3 %. This is set forth as 1.8% for developed economies.

Why do we reveal this table?

We should be aware of the developments and rapid change in the world and we may be able to take our measures in this direction. In the future, competition in international markets shall be much more tougher and relentless. For this reason, you should act much more careful and faster while deciding for purchase.

In 2015 and in the future; we may consider that; instead of huge amounts and quantities, optimal purchase shall be more rational. At decision making stage, undoubtedly; besides the quality, price and newness of the collection, delivery time shall be also one of the factors that come to forefront.

We have no doubt that; at this stage, Turkey is the best choice to be considered. As a matter of fact; one of the factors which should be paid attention most at decision making stage shall be delivery time. It is a fact that our country becomes prominent in this respect. Please decide carefully.

Besides our geographical advantage, Turkish home textile sector has further superiorities. Now, buyers assess us with our creativeness, opinions, quality, and power and maneuver ability. Production of the items which are environment friendly and rising our users’ life quality has been continuing increasingly every passing day. Our friends who wish to place orders for production in our country may chose the items from the collection prepared by our industrialists and may enable these items to be manufactured upon developed knitting weaving technology and printing techniques, thus they shall possess the product which they wished to do.

Turkey; with its reliability, raised labor force, quality- production ability, design capability and its investments made for the future, is not only a supplier country for its friends and customers, but has a service concept in which the requested goods are designed in the best manner and where the best collection is able to be produced.

We are inviting you all to EVTEKS 2015 Fair (21th İstanbul Home Textile Exhibition) to be held between19 – 23 May 2015.

Hope to see you in Turkey

Yaşar KÜÇÜKÇALIK Chairman Turkish Home Textile Industrialists and Businessmen Association

INDEX INDEX

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Deputy Chairman

Members

Ali Sami AYDIN Zafer KATRANCI

Ufuk Oçak, Erdoğan Baydemir, Mehmet Fatih Dereköylü, Bülent Koçak, Vehbi Akman, Can Tanrıverdi, İsmail Ağaoğlu, Remzi Kırayoğlu, Kemal Aydın Ulusal, Aziz Sarı, İrfan Pamuk, Cenk Kemahlı, Mustafa Kösemusul, Cemal Çetinkaya, Murat Zümbülyuva, Faruk Hürdana, Osman Kuman Çağal

On Behalf of Turkish Hometextile Industrialists and Businessmen’s Association Commercial Enterprise

Secretary General

Chairman

Financial Secretary

Yaşar KÜÇÜKÇALIK

Abdülhadi KÖSEOĞLU

Cengiz ÖZMEN

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The Board of Auditors

Ali Rıza Hasoğlu, Mehmet Baykent, Şerafettin Demir, Ahmet Serdar, Sütçüoğlu, Halim Usta, Yavuz Demirel

Editor in Chief (Responsible) Haşim Büyükbalcı

Editor

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Editorial Coordinator Cihan Oruçoğlu

Reporter Seray Baykan

Art Director

Yiğit Sütçü

Hakan Tekin

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Buket Tanrıöver

Zeynep Esen Sarıkaya

Contributors

Publication

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AnalysIs AGENDA EVTEKS HOME&TEX INTERVIEW TREND EmbroIdery ART technology TRAVEL CuIsIne

Turkish Home Textile Industrialists’ and Businessmen’s Association Commercial Enterprise All rights reserved.

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Address: IDTM Bloklari A3 Blok Kat:16 No:461 Yesilköy-Bakirköy-Istanbul Phone: +90 212 292 04 04 Fax: +90 212 292 23 04 www.tetsiad.org - info@tetsiad.org

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ANALYSIS

discover the potEntial in turkish home textile 4

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Turkish Home Textile Sector is within a different trend in a period when the world economy experiences a great recession in a general sense.

The sector which especially attracts attention with steady growth for the last 5 years seems to grow more considering the conditions of the coming period.

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hile the world economy leaves 2014 behind, it is observed that partial recovery in global economy continues, but risks also continue especially in the international finance system and capital movements.

International Monetary Fund (IMF) indicates in its World Economic Outlook report twice a year that the global economy is in a recovery process, recovery is spread to more countries, but downside risks also continue.

In the report in which the recovery continuing in the world economy will depend rather on the demand increase and economic growth of developed countries, the risks ahead of the world economy in the coming period in short term include low inflation and deflation trend which is gradually spread in the developed countries, probable adverse effect of varying money policies of USA on the economy of other countries, as well as, the possibility of lower than expected growth rates of the developing countries, especially China, and geopolitical risks in connection with Ukrainian crisis. As it is confirmed that the world economy has grown % 3 in 2013 as estimated by IMF, growth estimation of 2014 is increased to % 3,6 from %3 which was the estimation of October. It is estimated in this framework that the developing countries have grown % 4,7 in 2013 and % 4,9 growth is foreseen in 2014. On the other hand, while developed countries are estimated to grow % 1,3 in 2013, % 2,2 growth is expected in 2014. According to current estimations, an acceleration is expected in the global trade in the period under consideration. According to the estimates by IMF, the world’s goods and services trade has increased % 3 in 2013 and % 4,3 growth is foreseen in 2014.

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slowdown and, the uneasy situation experienced especially in the geographical sense, a partial crisis atmosphere. At this point, the developments experienced at Turkish home textile sector contain a picture different from the general world economy.

Turkish home textile sector has advanced much over the global economy and continued its growth trend which it is within following 2008.

Goal BeIng Second In the World

Although the recovery started in 2013 at USA which is the greatest economy in the world continued in the first quarter of 2014, USA Federal Reserve (FED) seek to decrease the monetary expansion slowly instead of completely ceasing it parallel to the consideration that the recovery in economy is not yet in an adequate level. According to up to date data, production activities seem to continue to increase all across USA in the first quarter of the year and it is thought that end of cold weather by April will positively affect production and consumption.

The data disclosed in the last period shows that the relaxation started last year at China having the second largest economy in the world continues. Thus, while Chinese economy continues to grow in the first quarter of 2014 in a rate higher than USA, Japan and European Union, still the relaxation of Chinese economy continuing since the beginning of the previous year stands out.

The deceleration of internal consumption and investments are shown as the greatest cause behind the slowdown in growth.

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As the desired production and export increases can’t be provided yet although the economic policy of Japan which is the other important economy of Asia continent and the monetary expansion program of the Central Bank has started to give positive results, efforts are made to support the growth of private sector trough financial and monetary incentives.

Although data explained for the last period of the year at EU and Euro Zone demonstrates that recovery in economy continues and recession at Euro Zone will gradually mitigate, it is feared that the tension experienced with Russia arising from Ukraine and Crimea would adversely affect the Union member countries which are dependent on Russia in energy supply in the coming period.

TurkIsh Home TextIle Sector Global greatly

economical data reflect a general

Having a significant power in the area of home textile in the world, Turkey provides the use of its products in tens of countries with its quality production. Turkey competes in the global markets not through price as usual, but by the value added on the product.

While China holds the greatest share in the home textile export in the world, India and Pakistan respectively follow China and then comes Turkey with a very small difference.

South Korea, Germany, Taiwan, Italy, USA, Belgium, Japan and France follow these countries respectively. Turkish home textile sector puts its short term goal to rise to the second rank by passing its two rivals in front.

Continuing to grow despite the adverse circumstances in the

ANALYSIS

geographically near regions, the sector gives the signals of unyielding growth in the event of elimination of such distress. In general, Turkish home textile sector continues to be one of the most important sectors of our country both with the export figures and continuous growth trend.

Home TextIle Export Runs towards a Record Turkish home textile sector continues its development. The sector has closed 2013 record high with an export of 3,296 Billion

dollars by % 13,5 increase and gives the signals that a new record will be broken by the end of 2014. Total home textile export is realized as 1,675 Billion Dollars in JanuaryJune period of 2014. This value is % 8,71 over 2013 January-June data. As long as home textile export continues in such rates, it is estimated that the end of year goal of 3,6 Billion Dollars will be attained.

When the assessment of the home textile export of 2014 January-June period in country basis is made, it is observed that most exportation was made to Germany.

Export to this country is realized as 286 Million Dollars with an increase of %2. This value corresponds to a rate of % 17,08 in the total export. Russian Federation follows Germany with a rate increase of % 9,37 and 157 Million Dollars export value. USA ranks third with a rate increase of % 6,67 and 112 Million Dollars export value.

Why TurkIsh Home TextIle Sector?

Turkish home textile sector was able to maintain its steady growth despite the global problems experienced in the world. The most important factor of this is the developed equipment pool, technology and quality of Turkish home textile sector. Contrary to the countries which maintain their existence in the world trade through price competition, Turkey has raised and continues to raise the level in this sector in the sense of quality.

RegIonal Advantage of Turkey Not being able to see the future clearly when a purchase decision is taken due to economic uncertainties has caused the creation of difference in the purchasing strategies. Especially purchase decisions of great sums have become risky. At this point, high tonnage purchases from Far East have strategic sense no more. This case will cause the countries which can provide quick delivery and boutique production come to

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the forefront. Turkish home textile sector which will be able to use its geographical closeness of big markets as an advantage will gain more importance in the coming period through its competence and quality.

QualIty – SteadIness – StandIng Future will especially bring into prominence the competition in the sense of quality.

We have chatted with many customers of the international markets. They especially complain about the deliveries made in varying color tones in every order they place to the Far East.

At thIs poInt, the matter of color dIscIplIne wIll come Into promInence.

Having the routines of years and export discipline is a different factor to satisfy the buyer.

Turkish home textile sector is in a position to come to the forefront on this subject wits its present developed equipment pool and technology. Having the capacity of manufacturing all orders placed with the desired quality, Turkish home textile sector gives confidence also with regards to standing through its steady economic growth.

Again, the matter of collections comes to the forefront as one of the important elements.

Many of our customers to buy goods from Turkey will be able to acquire their products easily and quickly by benefiting from the wide and innovative collection contents of our companies.

When we evaluate the qualified man power, quality production skills, design richness and investment of Turkey to the future, prediction of steady growth of Turkish home textile sector is not unreasonable. Considering all these features, it is very natural to predict that Turkish home textile sector will be the star sectors in the future.

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Welcome to your home! www.homesweethome.com.tr www.homesweethome.com.tr

online.homesweethome.com.tr

twitter.com/homesweethometr

facebook.com/homesweethome

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AGENDA

All the world will discover the potential of Turkey The studies on the “Turkish Brand” have recently been completed. Those studies were started with the coordination of the Ministry of Economy and the Turkish Assembly of Exporters (TIM), with the aim of representing the Turkish industry at the highest level in other countries, and raising the image of the products made in Turkey. Within that framework, new logo and slogan of Turkey are worth consideration as the products of a creative work.

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T

he studies which were started one and a half year ago with the aim of representing the Turkish industry at the highest level in other countries, and raising the image of the products made in Turkey have been completed, and the new logo and slogan of Turkey have been introduced. Within the framework of those studies, which were carried out with the coordination of the Ministry of Economy and the Turkish Assembly of Exporters (TIM), the new logo and slogan of Turkey were shaped through the exchange of views within a team of 150 persons, consisting of businessmen, advertisers, designers, artists, and academicians. The creative faces of that new logo and slogan were designed by the Saffron Brand Consultant company.

The said slogan ve logo were inspired by eight different figures which had widely

been used by the Turks in history, in the fields like carpet weaving, architecture, and handicrafts.

“ThIs Is an offer made to the entIre world” In his speech about the new logo of Turkey, the Head of Turkish Assembly of Exporters (TIM) Mehmet Büyükekşi told that they had started those works with the aim of bringing an end to a chaos and confusion, and said the following: “Today, Turkey is taking a big new step towards promoting itself to the world, together with all its partners. Today, we are getting focused on a new initiative for telling our story to the whole world”. Emphasizing that they introduced Turkey’s new logo which will be used on all of Turkish export goods and promotion materials, Büyükekşi continued his words as follows: “This is not

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a brand. Brand is Turkey itself. TURKEY “Discover the Potential” is an offer. We make an offer to the entire world with our slogan of TURKEY “Discover the Potential”. Come, and discover that potential. Discover, and add a new value to yourself. Discover, and complete yourself. Discover, to discover yourself. Discover, and become wealthy.

Discover, to make us all win. Discover to enrich the human civilization. Discover, so that all of us can be happy together”.

fields like carpet weaving, architecture, and handicrafts, and modern meanings were assigned to each of those figures.

According to that, the eight figures making up the logo symbolize the concepts of rising, synergy, world, meeting, east and west, innovation, unity, and harmony.

That new logo, which shows figures representing the Turkish culture, and was prepared in the Turkish color of turquoise, has a very fresh appearance.

TURKEY “DIscover the PotentIal”

What the Logo Tells Us

The new logo designed by Saffron Brand Consultant company was inspired by eight different figures which had widely been used by the Turks in history, in the

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The new logo of Turkey is not only a graphical design, but it is a narrative symbol which will represent Turkey in the international platforms for long years. The figure in the logo was created by blending

the original geometrical patterns used in Kufic calligraphy, and the basic forms of rug weaving art.

The Logo contains 8 basic traditional figures.

Each of those figures represent a new value of the rising Turkey. The figures, and their meanings can be listed as follows: In the logo, the oldest Islamic calligraphic form of Kufic and Turkey’s characteristic rug-weaving art are brought together, and in that way successfully meets modernism with uniqueness.

You may need to use different versions of the logo of Turkey from time to time.

Therefore, three different versions of the logo were designed in order to ensure that you can bring the symbol of Turkey’s power successfully to your works.

FAIR

Leading Brands Leading Fair

EVTEKS

21st EVTEKS Fair, which is the world’s second largest international home textile fair in terms of exhibition area, is going to be held in Istanbul on 19-23 May 2015. The fair is expected to be visited by around 120,000 local people and foreigners.

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stanbul International Home Textiles Fair EVTEKS is preparing to open its doors for the 21th time.

EVTEKS Fair Exhibition, bringing together home textile professionals from the world, will be held on 19-23 May 2015. In the fair, which is organized with the cooperation of TETSIAD (Association of Turkish Home Textiles Industrialists and Businessmen) and CNR International Trade Fairs Inc., all of the novelties in the home textiles sector will be exhibited, and the products shaping the trends and fashion will be submitted to the appreciation of the visitors.

EVTEKS will be held at the CNR Expo Fair Center, which is located near Atatürk Airport, on an area of 160,000 m2. It is expected that 1000 companies, about 200 of which being foreign companies, will attend EVTEKS 2015 Fair, and totally 120,000 visitors, of about 40,000 being foreigners, will visit the fair.

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TOWARDS A QUARTER CENTURY IN HOME TEXTILE At the fair exhibition, where more than 2,000 brands will be presented, many famous designers will exhibit their home textile trends for the year 2015. 21st EVTEKS Fair, to be held at the largest international fair center of Eurasia, is the most open event to the international world among those organized in Turkey. Last year EVTEKS was visited by about 40,000 foreign professionals. The Fair gathers producers, importers-exporters, wholesalers, distributers, agencies, buying offices, large

Among all the fairs organized in Turkey, EVTEKS is known as the most open one to the international world, in terms of the diversity of its attendants, and the number of its foreign visitors. This huge fair, having been organized for twenty years, was last year attended by about 200 foreign companies, and was visited by about 40,000 foreign professionals.

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retail stores, chain stores, hotels, interior architects-decorators, designers, and media under a single roof.

EVTEKS Fair Exhibition has shown great development during the last 21 years. First of EVTEKS Fairs was organized in 1992, with the participation of 69 firms. During the 20 years which followed, number of companies attending the Fair reached to 1,000 and the exhibition area was increased from 2,175 m2 to 160,000 m2. That great development observed in EVTEKS Fair is important, as it also shows the point Turkey has reached in the home textiles sector in that 20 years

of time. EVTEKS Fair is today the world’s second largest international home textile fair, in terms of its net selling space, number of its local and foreign attendants, and its huge mass of visitors.

INTENSE INTEREST SHOWN BY THE SECTOR EVTEKS Fair, where tens of thousands of home textile products are exhibited and the next year’s trends are presented, draws intense interest from the sector of home textiles, due to the vast variety of products

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displayed, and the rich commercial opportunities provided. EVTEKS 2014 aroused great interest of the local and foreign purchasers, such that purchasing delegations from 50 different countries came and visited the Fair. Among those countries which sent purchasing delegations to EVTEKS 2014, there were Spain, Italy, the US, Japan, France, the UK, Canada, Iran, and China. The attendants of EVTEKS 2014 signed important commercial agreements to meet the large orders of the groups of clients. The Fair was visited by totally 115,000 visitors, 39,675 of those being foreigners from 79 different countries, and orders were received from many countries, particularly from the Middle East and the former Eastern Bloc countries. Among the above mentioned 79 countries, those 10

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which sent the largest number of visitors were, in descending order, the following: Iran, China, Russia, Italy, Germany, the UAE, Egypt, the UK, Iraq, and Bulgaria. The foreign attendants of EVTEKS were mainly from Spain, Italy, Belgium, France, and Germany, which were followed by Austria, the UK, Greece, Holland, Switzerland, Poland, Azerbaijan, the US, the UAE, Egypt, Iran, Morocco, Russia, India, Pakistan, China, Taiwan, and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Furthermore, Spain, Italy, Belgium, and Morocco attended the Fair in their own pavilions.

LEADING BRANDS OF THE SECTOR AT EVTEKS FAIR As in the last three years, the trend area

of EVTEKS 2015 fair Exhibition is being designed this year also by Nelly Rodi, led by the famous designer Vincent Gregoire.

In that trend area, various seminars will be given during the Fair by the leading professionals, the world-famous trend leaders, and local and foreign designers of the home textile sector. That huge fair, where all kinds of novelties in the field of home textile will be exhibited for five days, is expected to have an important effect on the home textile trends of the year 2015.

FAIR

Home&tex Grows Constantly “HOME&TEX Fair” was organized for the second time this year with the cooperation of TETSIAD (Association of Turkish Home Textiles Industrialists and Businessmen) and CNR Holding.

The fair, held on 19-22 November at CNR Expo Yeşilköy, was visited by 25,000 people.

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ome&Tex, being the second most important home textile fair exhibition after EVTEKS, was organized with the cooperation of TETSIAD (Association of Turkish Home Textiles Industrialists and Businessmen) and CNR Holding on 19-22 November 2014 at CNR Expo Yeşilköy, and presented a very rich collection of home textiles and decoration products exhibiting the new worldwide trends. The fair, which drew great attention and presented all kinds of products of home textile and decoration, was held at CNR EXPO Yeşilköy on an area of 30,000 m2, and was visited by 25,000 people.

ThIs year the faIr has grown by 50 % compared to the last year HOME&TEX Fair, which was organized for the second time this year, has succeeded to show a growth by 50 percent compared to the last year. While the HOME&TEX Fair was held on an area of

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20,000 m2, and was attended by 300 firms last year, it has recorded a huge growth since then, and this year it was held on an area of 30,000 m2, with the participation of 434 attendants.

By providing its attendants with the opportunities of meeting with local and foreign purchasers, receiving orders directly from their clients, and closely observing the new developments in the sector, HOME&TEX brought the attending firms together with the entire components of the constantly growing home textile market under a single roof.

Besides its Turkish visitors, HOME&TEX was also visited by groups of purchasers from all over the world, mainly Russia, countries of the Middle East, European countries, CIS-member countries, and North African countries. The firms attending the fair obtained the opportunities to exhibit the latest developments and novelties in the sector, to know their competitors directly, and to assess their advantages in the competition.

Comfort of havIng standard stands at HOME&TEX Setting up specially designed single-type stands, which is a rising trend in worldwide fair organizations, has been used in the home textile and decoration sector for the first time in Turkey at HOME&TEX Fairs since 2013. The stands were specially designed and produced in accordance with the projects prepared for

each of the HOME&TEX attendant firms, in sizes that would satisfy their needs.

Second HOME&TEX Fair organized this year was visited by totally 5,000 foreign visitors from 55 countries located on the continents of America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. The fair aroused great interest, and all through the four days of the fair, it was visited by nearly 30,000 local and foreign visitors. Among the foreign visitors, there were the nationals of the countries known as the leaders of home textile sector, like Russia, Iran, China, Canada, France, and Spain. Still, they had chosen coming to Turkey for following the latest trends and developments in the world of home textiles and decoration.

HOME&TEX has served to confirm Turkey’s leadership in the global home textile sector, and made a great contribution to increase the export volume of the sector.

Yaşar Küçükçalık, Head of TETSIAD who made the opening speech of the Fair, said the following: “Our HOME&TEX fair, we founded last year on an area of 20,000 m2 with the participation of 300 attendants, has opened its doors to 434 attendants this year on an area of 30,000 m2. Those figures show that our HOME&TEX fair has grown by 50 percent within one year. When we look at the developed countries, we see that fair organizations have become a must for them.

Fair organizations are the primary instruments that will make our country a brand. We should add a new innovation to fair organization activities, since we can become brands only if our country becomes a brand”.

FaIrs have great Importance for the sector Yaşar Küçükçalık, emphasizing the great importance of the fairs for the sector, continued his speech as follows: “If we give figures to show the contribution of the sector to the Turkish economy, we can talk about a sum of 13-14 billion Dollars. 5 billion Dollars of that sum is gained through exportation, 2 billion Dollars from suitcase trading, and 8 billion Dollars corresponds to the domestic market trade volume. We are spending intensive efforts on a global scale, and striving for having a place among the first three countries in the global home textile products exportation.”

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FAIR “WEAVING LEGENDS EXTENDING FROM ANATOLIA TO ISTANBUL” AT HOME&TEX During the Home&Tex Fair held on 19-22 November, an Exhibition named as “Weaving Legends Extending from Anatolia to Istanbul” was organized under the sponsorship of TETSIAD (Association of Turkish Home Textiles Industrialists and Businessmen).

Weaving works made by 14 textile artists in 4 years were exhibited at CNR EXPO Yeşilköy during the Fair. That exhibition, which was presented at the foyer area, has drawn great interest from the visitors all through the 4 days of the fair.

The different fabrics used in the creation of the works presented at the exhibition have also been found very interesting by the visitors. Some of those fabrics were weaved from phosphorus containing threads, and they were giving light to the environment.

On the other hand, the works weaved by using threads made of nettle were creating an air-conditioning effect. Those two kinds of fabrics has drawn particular attention due to their very different effects. It is thought that they can be more widely used in the future.

Other very interesting materials were also used in producing those works, like waxed threads, thin wires, chain threads, natural

fibers looking like raffia, mufflers made of goat hair from Denizli region, muffler made of combed wool, nylon threads, egyptian cotton treads, etc. Prof. Dr. Günay Atalayer, who talked about those works said the following: “Anatolia has a very deeply rooted culture of veaving. Today’s developed level of weaving in Anatolia is the product of that cultural inheritance. We are both the products and keepers of that cultural inheritance. Our visual creativity, which is our way of living, guarantees the survival of all the branches of textile production in our country”.

That exhibition, which was organized under the sponsorship of TETSIAD, and was opened

first at Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality Museum in Yıldız Palace on 17 October 2014 will be continued to be presented at various other places after the closing of Home&Tex fair. It can be visited in Bursa and Denizli at future dates.

The artists and their works presented in the exhibition are: Noah’s Ark (The Great Flood) - Başak Özdemir Uysal, Kybele - Buket Pekel, Return of Telipinus - Feriba Işıldar, Humbaba (Huvava) - Gül Bolulu, Remainders of the Great Flood (Noah Flood) - Gülhan Güleçer, Girls Dancing at Sagallassos (Zafer Tanrıçası) - Günay Aykaç Atalayer, Legend of Kumarbi - Işıl Eraslan, İmdugud (Anzu Bird) - Nurten Yüksel, Snake-haired Medusa - Özge Usluca, IO’s Love (Golden Horn Legend) - Şafak Akalın, Tree of Life - Salimeh Amanjani, Kybele - Şenay Takuş, Genesis - Yasemin Özbey, Endymion-Selene - Esat Destanoğlu.

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INTERVIEW

wELCOME TO

heımtextıl The fairs have great importance for the home textiles sector. We had a discussion with Mr. Olaf Schmidt, from Messe Frankfurt, which is the company organizing the world’s largest home textile fair. During our discussion, Mr. Schmidt gave us a general information about the fair, and also talked about their targets in the short and medium term.

C

ould you please inform us about your company and its activities?

Messe Frankfurt is one of the world’s biggest fair and exhibition companies. Last year, we organized 113 fairs, over half of them outside Germany. Around 80,000 exhibitors and 3.65 million visitors take part in our events around the world and generate a

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turnover of more than half a billion euros. In the sector of textiles and textile technologies Messe Frankfurt is the international market leader: We have more than 40 events in nine countries. These fairs cover the entire value chain of the textile industry: from apparel fabrics and fashion, via interior and contract textiles to technical textiles, textile processing and textile care.

INTERVIEW

Messe Frankfurt organizes many successful trade fairs all over the world. In this respect, what is your opinion about the development of global home textile sector?

It is very hard to speak about the global market these days. Concerning Europe and according to Euratex, the European clothing and textiles association, we can say sales for the European industry will be unchanged in the last year.

But of course, international crises also affect the trade business in the textile industry. We notice that global companies are looking for new markets. With our international fairs we are optimally positioned and able to offer various business options.

spin, so-to-say, a red thread through all our textile fairs worldwide. As already mentioned, we are the world-market leader with our extensive portfolio of events. Additionally, we are the world’s number one for events in the fields of home textiles, technical textiles and apparel fabrics. One of the latest extensions of our ‘Texpertise Network’ is Texworld Istanbul. The new fair for apparel fabrics was successfully launched this November. So ‘Texpertise Network’ with its various trade fairs offers a lot of chances for networking

and business for Turkish companies – for their domestic activities as well as for their foreign projects.

Could you please tell us about Heimtextile Fair? (When did it first start? How many exhibitors / visitors have been participated in the Fair? What is the ultimate position of the Fair?

Heimtextil was held in Frankfurt for the first time in 1971. Last year we had more than 2,700 exhibitors and more than 66,000 visitors

What are the benefits of trade fairs for home textile sector?

When we talk about the home textile sector, we are facing a global industry. Trade shows provide participants of the industry a marketplace and the chance to find new business partners and to complete contracts.

When it comes to Heimtextil we can say: As the leading international trade fair for home and contract textiles, it brings together the key players in the industry. In addition, Heimtextil acts as a trend indicator: It defines industry trends and shows the latest market developments.

Could you please explain the term ‘Texpertise Network’? How can Turkish firms benefit from this network?

We bundle all our textile fairs together under the heading ‘Texpertise Network’ and thus

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from all over the world. With its size and internationality it offers a multifaceted and unique spectrum of products. The outlook for 2015 is brillant, too. Again, we expect more exhibitors than in the year before. So Heimtextil’s position as the world’s leading trade fair will once again get underlined.

What is your general opinion about the interest of Turkish exhibitors into the Fair?

Last January 166 Turkish companies attended in Heimtextil. Turkey was the fifth biggest nation on the exhibitors’ side. We are very happy to enjoy this huge interest from the Turkish textile industry which presents excellent products with fantastic designs and qualities year by year at Heimtextil. And also for the 2015 edition of Heimtextil we are looking forward to discover a wide range of Turkish home textiles.

What is your opinion about Turkish home textile sector’s today and future?

What we see at Heimtextil is that quality and design of Turkish home textiles have significantly been improved in recent years.

With that the former cost disadvantages and the pressure of competition from low-wage

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countries could be compensated. As recently published by TETSIAD the Turkish textile industry’s aim is to increase the volume up to USD 10 billion by 2023. In my eyes it is a great plan, but a challenging one. To reach that the production must be expanded. As we know the Turkish home textile industry relies on growing exports. Today, Turkey is after the PRC, India and Pakistan the world’s fourth largest exporter of home textiles. I am sure Turkey is on a good way.

Does your company intend to start new trade fairs in the short or medium term? What are your targets?

This year we have extended our portfolio by Heimtextil India and Texworld Istanbul. Both fairs, as already mentioned, had successful premieres. Recently we added four further trade fairs to our international range: In Dubai we will run the Leatherworld beginning in May 2015 and in Buones Aires/Argentina we will have Emitex for apparel fabrics next in 2015,

INTERVIEW

Confemaq and Simatex for textile processing next in 2016. The target is to improve our position to be the first contact person for trade fairs around the globe for the textile industry.

How did the global trade fair sector change in the last 20 years? What is your prediction about the next 20 years?

As we all know the production facilities have moved eastward. That implies a huge change in terms of prices and qualities. Today many traditional companies in Europe, including in Turkey, concentrate on the production of high quality textiles. In addition, technical textiles are becoming more important and also sustainable issues are more and more part of many companies’ strategy. Nevertheless I do not think the textile industry will continue to change as rapidly as in the last two decades. And let me add one thing: In the face of all these changes during the last years it makes us even prouder to offer the textile industry this steady and stable plattform Heimtextil in Frankfurt.

New management at Messe Frankfurt Istanbul As of 1 January 2015, there is a new management team at the helm of Messe Frankfurt Istanbul Uluslararası Fuarcılık Ltd.Şti. The Messe Frankfurt Executive Board has appointed Işın Sağlam and Tayfun Yardım as Managing Directors of the company. They will take over from Mirko Schubert, who had been overseeing the Istanbul subsidiary and who will return to his position as Vice President in charge of International Sales Management in Frankfurt. Işın Sağlam and Tayfun Yardım will be jointly responsible for further developing the subsidiary and for the growth of events in Turkey. As Managing Director Finance and Administration, Işın Sağlam will be primarily responsible for the areas of Finance, Administration and Human Resources Management.

Tayfun Yardım, as Managing Director Sales and Marketing, will be focusing mainly on event development management in Turkey and on the key account management of Turkish customers taking part in trade fairs in Frankfurt and at the company’s other locations around the world.

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TREND

BY MILOU KET

I

n this new INTERIORS, edition 2015 / 2016, the most influential international themes are shown. There are both summer and winter themes. There are six themes featured, all with their corresponding colour cards. For weavers, printers and spinners we there is a special box with colours, meant for the interior, contract and hospitality market, where cotton yarns are dyed after specification. This is a separate product, but there are also extra skeins available on request to go with this book. Besides that, there is a list of the compatible Pantone® cotton colours.

Every theme is shown with it’s corresponding

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colour card, plus more than 100 inspiring materials that match the themes in colour and character. At the end of the book is a list of sources, designers and manufacturers that are featured in this INTERIORS book.

Colour has been accepted in the interior.

Neutral colours are the base to add colours in different intensities. The pastel colours will be the most important for textiles and accessories. The first theme “Pop-Up Brights”, shows bright and primary colours, often against a white, neutral or black background.

The second theme ”Soft Focus” is partly contemporary, partly traditional romantic and

vintage, in fresh pastel colours. “Ethni Craft” is the third theme, based on handi craft, from different corners of the world. In “Nordic by Nature” the emphasis is on cool neutrals, now combined with dusty pastel colours to meet the demand for more colour. Exotic nature and jungle fever take a central role in the theme “Second Nature” in colours inspired by nature, combined with some bright accents.

In the last theme “Opulent Glamour” we are inspired by our cultural heritage, and add luxurious materials, in deep basic colours and exiting accent colours. Metallics are important. Different styles are mixed.

TREND

POP-UP BRIGHTS Colour has become very important over the last few seasons. This will be continued, but the pastels will be the most important. In this first styling direction we see slightly faded bright colours, with a touch of vintage, but also primary colours in the style of the Dutch painter Mondrian. Art is an important source of inspiration, for instance Pop Art, the art of Sonia Delauney and Vasarely with their colourful effects. These bright colours are mainly meant for accessories, but we see them also applied for walls. Geometry, and painterly effects such as blending water colours are important. Mistakes from the computer are used in prints. Everything is light and airy. Therefor we will see a lot of metal wire furniture. Sometimes the inside of a bowl or vase is very colourful.

Ceramics and glass will be important. Opposed to cool materials we will see warm, textured materials such a felt and wool to balance the effect. Black is often used as a good background colour and in outlines to make the colours shine.

COLOURS: For this theme we see a range of bright colours, but slightly faded for a vintage effect. They work best in combination with black or neutral colours such as beige and grey. They are also combined with old wood. As colours we see Bright Red, Bright Pink, Bright Orange, Warm Yellow, Bright Green, Bright Cyan, Cobalt Blue and Purple. Black is an important background colour, and is also used for outlines. White as a combination colour gives the necessary freshness.

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TREND

SOFT FOCUS This theme is partly contemporary, partly romantic, feminine, classical and traditional. The range of the pastel colours will be the most important of the season. Nature plays an important role, but in a refined way. We see old-fashioned floral patterns, old engravings and poetic images. It has often a touch of glamour because of the combination with mirrored surfaces and the use of metallics and sateen. The use of gradient colours is important as well. The volumes are rounded and friendly. Sometimes a touch of an even brighter colour will be applied. Old handicraft and new techniques are combined. We will see a lot of lace and matte/ shine effects, open work and laser-cut materials in an opaque/ transparent interpretation. It is mostly light hearted, elegant and feminine. White is often used as a background colour, but we also see different shades of beige, for a recycled effect. Colours are combined for a gradient colour effect.

COLOURS: Fresh pastel colours prevail. The emphasis is on the range of pink shades. The colours are: Lipstick Pink, Pastel Pink, Salmon, Blush, Pastel Yellow, Mint Green, Soft Turquoise and Pastel Green. They are often combined with white for a fresh effect, but also with beige for a more antique and worn effect.

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TREND

ETHNI CRAFT Products from all over the world find a place in our interiors as a souvenir from far-way places and our travels. We have become a kind of modern Nomads, travelling around and making our homes in various places. Regional Folk art is valued again. From refined Far Eastern ideas with flowers and birds, Chinese porcelain to Navajo Indian hand-woven blankets and Berber weaves.

With African wooden sculptures and masks, and Turkish applications and Kelim patterns. We also see interest in materials coming from the former colonies like Indonesia. The colours are warm and rich and combine well among each other. Peacock is one of the most important colours and is combined tone-in-tone in different shades of blues and greens. Luxurious materials and almost forgotten hand-made techniques play a role. Warm red brown is the most important background colour. Also the English country side, and the forest in autumn colours are important with tweeds and checks.

COLOURS: The colours in this theme are warm and expressive. Red brown is the most important background colour and makes the range work. As colours we see Red Brown, Tomato Red, Copper, which acts also as a warm orange, Ochre, Aubergine, Light Peacock, Indigo Blue and Purple. All these colours combine well. Luxurious materials and almost forgotten techniques play a role to obtain a rich and warm look. Peacock will be one of the most important colours and will be used also for painted walls.

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TREND

NORDIC BY NATURE In this direction we see Nordic influences from Scandinavia. Before this theme consisted only of neutral colours, but now some dusty pastel shades are added to meet the demand for more colour. Mostly the textures and decorative objects are inspired by nature, such as fossils, shells, seeds and a whole range of animals. Cold winter landscapes with snow, photo prints in black, white and shades of grey are important here. These neutrals and dusty pastels are sometimes combined with the anthracite grey, chocolate brown and black from the last theme, but only in small touches to add some accent and interest. White is also an important colour, and comes to life, in fragmented and angular shapes. Laser cuts, and pleating give a shadowy effect. The neutrals are often the base and background colour, to be combined with the pastel colours.

There is not much contrast in this theme. The metals are often aged, worn and oxidized. Hairy materials such as hides, furs and mohair are added for balance.

COLOURS: Besides several neutral colours we see some dusty pastel tones. As colours we see Beige, Soft Orange that can act as a colour or represents also a warm shade of wood. Pale Yellow, Dusty Pink and a Snow White, Ice Blue, Pearl Grey and Middle Grey. The anthracite grey, the brown and black from our last theme can be easily combined with this range, to add more accent and interest. White is also important and is combined with pleating to add shadow effects.

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TREND

SECOND NATURE Nature is a very important source of inspiration. In this theme we see the emphasis on lush, exotic nature, tropical, with foliage and leaves, exotic flowers such as orchids, and parrots, parakeets, monkey’s, leopards, butterflies and insects. But also the underwater world is a source of inspiration, like lobsters and clams, fishes and corals. It is like jungle fever, or urban jungle.

We see botanical influences as well, but in brighter colours than we have seen before. Besides some green shades and a khaki, there are some accent colours like a poisonous lime and a signal red. But also bright yellow and turquoise could be used as an accent. The former Arts and Crafts movement of William Morris in the United Kingdom meets a revival. His fabrics are still made.

Flora and Fauna, but also the creatures from the sea with shells, corals and fishes is a source of inspiration. We see show cases and bell jars and we take plants into our homes.

COLOURS: In this direction we see several green shades such as Khaki Green, Grass Green, Poisonous Lime.

Besides that, two very bright colours, Hypnotising Pink and Signal Red. Also a bright turquoise and yellow from our other ranges could be well combined as an accent. Besides those, there are three water colours: Jade Blue, Lagoon Green and an Ocean Blue. Often white is used as a fresh background colour.

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TREND

OPULENT GLAMOUR The rich historic paintings from the Dutch Golden Age are the source of inspiration for this colour theme in mysterious gem - and dark colours. The theme is traditional, based on an opulent cultural heritage, with rich metallic such as bronze, copper, tin and oxidized metals such a gold and silver. There is a kind of golden light over everything and colour comes to the forefront against a dark background. As colours we see Golden Yellow, Prune, Magenta, Peacock, Deep Night Blue and three basic colours such as a warm Chocolate Brown, Anthracite Grey and of course Black. The shapes can be simple, but mostly the materials are rich and luxurious. The shapes themselves can also be quite minimal. It can be contemporary, but it can be also more traditional and even baroque. Black and white will be continued. Circles and Spirals are popular motifs. Illustrations with a Surrealistic touch and engravings as well as the work of Cocteau, remain important.

COLOURS: In this theme the emphasis is on a range of dark colours, and colours that remind us of gems. Like a facet of a gem, their different facets radiate their own colours, mostly tone-in-tone. Peacock will be a very important colour and can be combined with turquoise and bright green from our bright colour range. As colours we see Golden Yellow, Prune, Magenta, Peacock, Deep Night Blue and three basic colours such as a warm Chocolate Brown, Anthracite Grey and of course Black. These dark colours can be used in combinations with other themes as well.

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23x33A_eng_ilan.pdf

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2015 BEDSPREAD COLLECTION www.cottonhouse.com.tr

Cotton House gets excited to share the years of experience and knowledge with you our precious customers.

Since it has been founded, our company which has staff of experts engaged in production on home textiles has manufacturing nubuck bedspreads, cotton bedspreads, embroidered bedspreads, satin bedspreads, bath mats, living room sets, bed sets, dinner sets and tablecloths.

Our services include domestic and international logistics operations in postproduction. Although we are medium sized firm, thanks to the attaching importance to quality and determination to succeed from the first moment, we have been well known in a short time and we have not give up on our principles.

Essential principles of our company are always quality, service, customer satisfaction, delivery on time and reasonable price. The assurance of the success and sustainability of production is the honesty and quality on service.

Cotton House, which works with this principle, thanks you for your interest and support.

Find Yourself In The Flow Of Your Emotion

EmbroIdery

TRADITIONAL TURKISH Embroidery Prof. Dr. Ayten Sürür

E

mbroidery is the most common type of textile decoration, and nowhere in the world has it received so much attention as among the Turks. Throughout the whole of Turkish history embroidery has occupied an important place among the various handicrafts associated with textiles, and from the very earliest times the Turks have used embroidery to decorate everything from clothing to household effects and even horses’harness.

Embroidery is the art of decorating wool, linen, cotton and silk fabrics, and sometimes even leather, with white or coloured, silver or gold thread, using a needle or an awl.

A Short History of Embroidery Embroidery originated in attempts to find a way of joining two separate pieces of woven material together. Even in prehistoric periods a primitive kind of embroidery was practiced. It was known to the Persians, Hittites and Phrygians, in Egypt and Mesopotamia and various types of embroidery were used in Rome, Byzantium and India. In Iran, for example, stitching, applique and openwork embroidery was known.

From the earliest times the Turks have decorated whatever they used or wore with various types of embroidery from leather

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applique to plaiting and raised stitching. After the battle of Malazgirt they settled in Anatolia, bringing their own culture with them. The «Pazirik carpet» in the Hermitage Museum in Leningrad is the oldest example of this. Specimens of felt and applique work found in the same mound illustrate only one or two of the embroidery techniques employed by the Turks.

Changes brought about by the transition from a nomadic to a settled way of life appear among both the Uyghurs and Seljuks, particularly after their conversion to Islam, and such changes in living conditions naturally resulted in changes in style and motif.

In embroidery this is to be seen in animal motifs being replaced by plant motifs, and in the various effects on embroidery technique resulting from changes in the materials employed.

The Place of Embroidery in Turkish Life At a time when, in the west, embroidery was to be found only in royal courts or in the ceremonial apparel of priests and churchmen, it already formed part of the everyday life of the Turks. Embroidery was to be found in court and cottage, and was applied to everything from a young girl’s trousseau to the bridegroom’s wedding outfit.

It was also very easy to tell the social class to which people belonged by the style of embroidery on their clothes.

EmbroIdery

Formal and ceremonial male attire worn by various types of dignitaries such as imams, judges and the ulema, was covered with embroidery. Even shoes and slippers were embroidered. As for female attire, embroidery is here found not only on the outer garments but also on underwear and handkerchiefs.

Most household effects were also embroidered. Table­ cloths, curtains, door-curtains, table-mats and brazier covers all displayed embroidery, which thus occupied an important place in Turkish everyday life.

Materials and Implements used in Embroidery Certain materials and implements are necessary for embroidery: the fabric which is to serve as a base, silk or silver gilt thread, and needles or awls to apply the thread to the material. We may also add subsidiary elements such as embroidery frames and hoops.

The most important of the basic materials used as a ground for the embroidery are linen, silk brocade, mercerised satin and silk-cotton stripe, as well as velvet, taffeta and even leather, but silk and linen fabrics are generally preferred. An embroiderer’s hoop two circular wooden frames fitting tightly one within the other. The material is stretched over the inner hoop and the outer hoop pressed over the inner so as to keep the material taut. An embroiderer’s frame is larger, and is rectangular in form. It can be used set perpendicularly to the ground or at a slight inclination. In either case the threaded needle is inserted above and drawn out below, and then inserted below, and then inserted below and drawn out above.

Embroidery Techniques In talking of embroidery, the materials employed include not only cloth, thread and needles, but also the various implements used in the preparation of these and particularly the various local methods formerly employed in dyeing the thread and the cloth. It is because of the use of vegetable dyes that very old pieces of Embroidery still preserve the original vividness of the colours. I myself have obtained dyes by boiling the leaves and roots of certain plants, but the much greater trouble and expense of producing these vegetable dyes, together with the disappearance of some of the plants required, has led to these ‘fast’ colours being replaced by chemical dyes.

Even today dyes may very easily be obtained from vine leaves, alder bark, plane tree leaves, quince leaves, walnut bark, peach tree leaves, red mallow, purple lily, pink rose petals and some insect shells. A complete list of vegetable materials yielding red, yellow, brown, grey, Purple, mauve and black together with the various shades of these is given in this book.

There are two methods of using dyed materials: white work, in which coloured thread is worked on a white ground, and coloured work. The latter is sub-divided into ‘hesap’ work, in which the embroidery is made by counting the threads, and printed embroidery.

‘Hesap’ work is done by counting the threads in the woof and the warp. Thus it is only used in loose woven fabrics in which the threads are set at right angles.

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EmbroIdery

Most of the embroideries manufactured in the palace itself were ‘official’ embroidered to be given as gifts to foreign visitors. These were the finest of the embroideries.

This is known to have been employed since the 16th century in cotton, wool, silk and linen fabrics. As for print work, these are first traced or stamped on the material and then filled in with embroidery.

Motif and Design in Embroidery Motifs employed in Turkish Embroidery range from the animals of a zoomorphic religion to plant motifs. Animals from the immediate environment such as horses, wolves and eagles are gradually replaced by leaves and tendrils, and even by scenes connected with nature. In the 16th century we find an increasing use of stylisation resulting in various types of interlace designs, and ‘cintemani’, at that time regarded as having magical properties, was a favourite motif in palace embroideries.

Embroidery resembled tiles and miniatures in the use of flowers such as roses, carnations and tulips, and fruit such as pomegranates, apples, pears and melon, depicted simultaneously from the exterior and in cress-section. No perspective whatever “was used either in line or colour.

From the point of view of surface dimensions embroideries can be divided into three groups: square pieces (handkerchiefs, kerchiefs, turban cloths, bags and cushions), long rectangular pieces (headkerchiefs, fillets, napkins, towels, waist-bands, sashes, bolster covers, quilt covers, bedspreads, prayer rugs, wall hangings, door curtains, brazier covers, cradle covers, quivers, tents) and articles of clothing.

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Regional Features in Embroidery Our researches have shown that the art of embroidery displays quite definite regional characteristics. The very great difference between a palace and a peasant embroidery in outlook, feeling, delicacy and refinement is paralleled by the difference between a mashlah (loose open­fronted cloak) embroidered in İstanbul and a bindalli (purple velvet embroidered in silver thread) from Elazığ.

A workshop of arts and crafts was established in the Ottoman court, and included weaving, embroidery, calligraphy and velvet making. There were also tradesmen in the market engaged in the production of gold embroidery for the courtiers and high state officials. These tradesmen dealt in gold embroidered cushions, divan covers, curtains, and even horse trappings for the viziers and other notables.

Most of the embroideries manufactured in the palace itself were ‘official’ embroidered to be given as gifts to foreign visitors. These were the finest of the embroideries.

City embroideries were produced in imitation of the palace embroideries, but cannot compare with then in delicacy and refinement, being much more representative of popular taste. At the same time these city embroideries introduced the art of embroidery into every house, and in this respect İstanbul embroideries differ very markedly from those of other cities.

Embroideries from the other regions each possess their own peculiar features. In the Aegean region, for example, represented by

Izmir and the surrounding country, distinctive techniques and colours (red and white e.g.) are employed, and these embroideries usually consist of ‘hesap’ work with regional motifs such as vine-leaves and bunches of grapes. In Konya embroideries we find ‘Chinese needle’, in Malatya oblique stitching, and in Gaziantep the type of ‘hesap’ work known as Antep work. The Palu region is well-known for its embroideries in gold, silver or copper wire.

As ‘dival’ (gold and silver thread embroidery over cardboard) gradually replaced ‘sirma’ (embroidery in silver gilt thread) this technique underwent a simplification peculiar to Maras and spread very quickly throughout this region, becoming known as ‘Maras work’. This is also known as bindalli, and consists of embroidery on velvet, satin and patterned fabrics. At the present day these techniques are taught in vocational schools and institutes for girls. The motif known as a ‘handful of gold’ is really the transfer on to fabric by means of a pure and simple design of the rows of gold coins worn

EmbroIdery

great influence on the local population. The most important of these areas are the Morea, Epirus and the Balkans, where Turkish influence can be very clearly seen in colour, technique and design, and this influence can be seen to continue in the embroideries of many other countries, including Hungary.

In spite of differences in race, language and religion the peoples of these regions had lived side by side with during the long years of the Turkish occupation, and had assimilated many features of Turkish art.

by Anatolian girls around their necks.

One of the most important features of peasant and folk embroidery, which is one branch of regional embroidery, is the significance lent to the piece by the place or manner in which it is to be used, the way in which it is fashioned and embroidered accordingly, sometimes with lyrics, poems or even sentences linked together to form epistles embroidered in black thread. The custom among townspeople and peasants of using motifs and colours to express their feelings and desires was so universal that one could tell from the way a woman wore her dress, from the form of her head-dress of from the way in which her kerchief hung from her waist, whether she was an unmarried girl a bride-to-be or a married woman, a mother with children or a widow. It is still the same today, when the type of embroidery on a kerchief or a sock may reveal the wearer’s social status, and the letters embroidered on a bag to be sent as a gift may express the sender’s longing for an absent friend, or her displeasure. Popular and peasant embroideries thus provide an extremely valuable source of information for studies in folklore and ethnography.

The Spread and Influence of Turkish Embroideries The Turks carried their own culture and arts to Central Europe and the shores of the Mediterranean, where they exerted a

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Conclusion Towards the end of the 19th century there was a marked increase in the number of different types of embroidery, but the rise in volume of production and the fall in cost price brought about by the development of the textile industry made it impossible for the traditional had manufactures to compete. The people and peasants had produced these wares for their own use, without any though of marketing them, but in the meantime a merchant class had arisen in the towns who produced and sold these embroideries, and it was this class that

suffered from the new competition.

As industrialisation proceeded, handcrafts, and particularly the invaluable, traditional art of Turkish embroidery, gradually decayed, nor was it possible to halt the inevitable development of social history.

Thus it is essential that stress should be laid on the development of Turkish handicrafts, and that a conscious effort should be made to save them degenerating into articles for the tourist trade and to make them again once an integral part of our everyday life.

Such a trend, indeed, has appeared in the course of the last fifty years, and types of embroideries that were to be found in a few rare examples in remote corners of Anatolia, or were preserved in museums or old houses, are now once again becoming a living art.

In addition to the already existing art institutes for girls, Applied Arts, the Academy of Fine Arts, the School of Applied Arts, the Academy of Fine Arts, the School of Industrial Design and similar institutions, to train elements for the modern textile industry, and at the same time to preserve the traditional techniques employed in the art of Turkish embroidery. Recent years have been most productive in this field and developments in Turkish textiles and

embroidery have attracted the attention of fashion designers throughout the world. The fashion shows organised by various firms in Europe and America show that both in design and style we find a Turkish influence comparable to that in Venice in the 16th century and in France in the 18th.

In a society that uses paper handkerchiefs, an embroidered handkerchief has no real function to perform and must be regarded as pure ornament. Embroidered bed-spreads or wedding-clothes, on the other hand, still answer a real need in present-day society.

Although not suitable for use in industry, Turkish embroidery still retains its value in everyday life, and merits a serious and thorough investigation. Modern textiles cannot be said to have made full use of the colours, designs and attitude reveals in Turkish embroidery, but a scholarly, scientific approach would enable us to exploit to the full this rich and precious source. Changes taste and standards of beauty, the lack of a comprehensive and detailed catalogue of the technical features of these embroideries, the fact that no analysis has been made of the reasons for either development or decay constitute no real obstacles to a serious work of investigation. The art of Turkish embroidery is based on the life and energy of the people and on their tastes and needs. A way will certainly be found to keep it alive.

ANALYSIS

TRANSFORMATION OF THE GREAT POWER and FORTHCOMING DANGER FOR THE LOCAL INDUSTRIES AND SOCIETIES “Historical dispute between socialism and capitalism will have its greatest combat in the following years. Societies, small producers and consumers will be compeller for transformation for sustainability or giant companies and governments will be so.”

Prof. Mehmet Zaman Saçlıoğlu

T

wentieth century pretended as the century experiencing the word the greatest transformations ever with lots of incidents such as wars, technologic developments, social and political disturbances, polarization and globalization.

Mankind was in conflict with almost everything as first and foremost with itself and nature in this century. We have considered the civilization as the mankind ruling the nature; we have consumed fossil fuels, soil,

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water, air unconsciously and emptily as if no other humankind will live after.

Researches made demonstrate a great majority of ecosystems in earth have devastated in the recent half century. We could be able to understand recently that many innovations which we deem as development in terms of technology and adding wealth and facility to our lives in fact cost the earth and we’re about to defraud living spaces, water, air of our grandchildren.

Scientists believe that all earth resources

make us live licentiously will run short of within twenty, thirty years as things continue to happen like this and they put forward the concept of living in harmony with the nature.

Hunter tribes, agricultural tribes are obliged to live in harmony with the nature because nature used to bestow food to them. Mankind being urbanizing and breaking away from the nature became estranged to soil and water.

This estranging facilitated the idea of ruling and altering the nature rather than living in harmony with that.

ANALYSIS

Population rapidly grown, planted lands reduced, urbanization increased and by uncontrolled developing industrialization encouraged societies to consumption, service sector empowered as the production sector. And we have reached the present day.

We observe the following if we ask what we have in our hands: A world monetary system which its ninety percentages uncovered and a system about the go bankrupt. Consecutive economic crisis.

Conflict of great international capital beneath the appearance of conflicts of religions and nations.

Inequality where 2 % of global population have 40% of the world wealth and conflicts brought forward by this inequality.

Social structure and living habits altered by the economic order built upon production more than needed, production and consumption cycle in many countries.

Besides increasing purchasing needs of people and also decreasing of our purchasing power and causing production of cheap and more poor quality products and by this way tax smuggling, exploitation of labor, anti-ecologic production methods and production of copy products and enlarging ethical problems...

As a greater disaster than the one mentioned above, the global climatic change and wildly consuming the natural resources of earth …

It is possible to prolong this list of problems by disseminating to areas such as politics, law, training, health, etc. but we’re really in a tragicomic situation that prevents us to make

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new suggestions. That is: We have mentioned just before, we yet know that we should live in harmony with the nature, however our production and consumption systems are totally resulted from our previous belief that “mankind transforms and controls nature” and systems those developed this belief. For instance we still try to meet our energy requirements from hydroelectric, thermal and nuclear plants those transforming the nature. We invest for them. Whereas we are very well aware that hydroelectric plants alter agriculture, soil and water systems, vegetation and food chain and this alteration is not incompliance with the natural speed of change and form.

Thermal plants consume coal which bears vital importance for the future and increases

carbon release. Nuclear plants involve greater risks they accommodate a danger which is harder to terminate than its construction.

Nowadays, scientists tell us to modify system in the earliest convenience and adapt you production and consumption systems not to the old idea alleging “Mankind alters and rules nation” but to the idea that “mankind should live in harmony with nature” and we have no time to do so.

I believe that scientist can immediately solve this issue however they cannot convince the power ruling the world. Because, may it can be claimed that it is a pessimistic point of view however I believe that power ruling the world does not deal with the mankind.

Because they are aware that disasters caused by the change of nature would affect poorest

Details and striking colours of the nature is now in our fabrics with the quality of digital printing…

TEKSTİL SAN. VE TİC. A.Ş.

www.cahan.com.tr

“La Voce della Moda”

Demirtaş Organize Sanayi Bölgesi Mustafa Karaer Caddesi No:47 Phone: 00.90.224.261 03 48 Fax : 00.90.224.261 08 83 Bursa / Türkiye

www.cahandijital.com

ANALYSIS

countries and people. Or do they expect the world population to decrease by holocausts resulting from diseases, wars, poverty?

Mankind should discover a new production, consumption relation. We need great transformations. Recently a report was released that clearly puts these great transformations into words from the perspective of international capital.

This was a report by an international union called “World Business Council for Sustainable Development” and named “Vision 2050, New Agenda for Business World”. Report was promoted by the Turkish agency of this Union called “Business World and Sustainable Development Association”.

29 Giant member companies such as Allianz, Boeing, Eskom, Philips, Sony, Osaka Gas, Toyota, Wolkswagen present their reflection in reference to 2050 and they point out for the new area.

Report was explaining that global ecologic problems are opportunity for the companies who will transform their production and services to sustainability and they will earn much from this work and world and their own can be able to survive. If we summarize these great companies tell the following: “Our world is under a serious climatic transformation threat and it is very clear that the traditional business life will bring us to sustainability and future. If we intend to continue with our habits and fail to make radical changes it can be calculated that our world to reach nine billion population will need to utilize sources equal to 2-3 folds of world and this means that we will short of our resources before reaching to year 2050.

Millennium ecosystem assessment has put forward that 15 of the 24 assessed ecosystems were damaged in last half century. Rapid and continuous increase for fossil fuel based energy use and increasing use of natural resources continue to affect key ecosystems.

Business world will be able to obtain new revenues from these radical changes. We need to realize to concept “living within the boundaries of planet” without damaging to bio-diversity and ecosystems. For this purpose we are in need of every kind of creativity, R&D and innovation. It is an obligation to comprehend the relations between energy, food and water and to consider them as a whole. Smarter system, smarter people, smarter design and smarter companies will come into prominence. We need to initiate a green peace and there is an obligation to make radical changes for state regulation to affect business life, markets, consumer preferences, pricing of inputs and measurement of profit and loss by encouraging countries and companies both for co-operation and competition.

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ANALYSIS

Preferences by the countries, companies, societies for many times fixed in line with the short term objectives and interest.

It is inevitable for all managements to make co-operation with the business world for a sustainable economy by taking relevant measures in the earliest convenience and to seek for a new form and content of training to be able to train consumers. Because there will be a complex world order and having its efficiency undisputedly interdependent.

This order should be immediately initiated with the agreement and radical changes of government, companies and customers.”

This report is continue with many details however when its line spaces carefully investigated it is not hard for us to imagine that it will resemble to science fiction movies, one emperorship of companies or may be a unique integrated company will acquire governance, all countries’ governments survived as a puppet and under the pressure of political tutelage and systems of communication, law and security governed by such as power. Yet concept of labor is destroyed and social order for preserving ecosystems distorted.

Because these transformations and conversions in the future worlds were shaped by the governments and giant companies.

Shortly, historical dispute between socialism and capitalism will have its greatest combat in the following years.

Societies, small producers and consumers will be compeller for transformation for sustainability or giant companies and governments will be so. Mankind will be taken as reference point or the capital. Shortly richer minority will live in a world where its population consciously decreased or inherent right to live will surpass capital’s power. I am afraid harder wars ever, biological wars, poverty and holocausts wait in the destiny of world.

Status of local medium scaled and small scaled companies indefinite while these conflicts initiate. Globalization will lead not opening of small scaled companies to world but the global giant companies to

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spread to world’s capillaries and to suffocate small companies.

In reference to what is being considered in this report, national economies, civil organizations should be well prepared and informed and they should play an effective role for shaping the future by preparing plans having their social aspects powerful.

www.bersan.com.tr bersan@bersan.com.tr

HEIMTEXTILE 2015 4.1 G14

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OTTOMAN ART OF WEAVING

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rt of weaving, also including the carpet weaving, is an important element in the lives of nomads. Luxury fabrics have also an important place in the Islamic tradition.

Although Anatolia was famous in the middle ages with the fabrics it was producing, almost none of those fabrics could reach to our time. The most important piece of fabric known to be coming from those times is a piece of velvet fabric with a writing on it, stating that it had been woven for Sultan Alaaddin Keykubat.

It is exhibited today in the Lyon Textile Museum. On the said fabric, there are lion patterns embroidered with gold thread, as well as circular herbal arabesque patterns on a red ground. It is believed that the fabric in question is likely to have been woven on the special looms at the Seljuk Sultanate’s palaces.

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Travelers like Marco Polo in the 13th century, and ibn-i Batuta in the 14th century talk about the famous silk, velvet, and other fabrics woven in Anatolia.

It is understood that the textiles produced in Denizli region were particularly famous.

The garments of Ottoman Sultans, traditionally kept after their death, give us an idea about the fabrics used in the Ottoman Palaces. The fabrics, which were woven specifically for the Sultan, his family members, and

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other people living in the Palace were called as “palatial fabrics”, and they were very much different from those fabrics used by ordinary people. The “palatial fabrics” were also covering the textiles woven to be used in furnishing the palaces. Even though some of the textile goods produced in workshops weaving for the public were resembling the “palatial fabrics”, the latter were still superior than those woven in the said workshops, in terms of both their embroidery, and the high value of the material used in them. Due to the fact that the garments worn by the Sultan and other people living in the palace had to be sewn in certain specified models, the textures and patterns of the fabrics to be used in the daily and ceremonial dresses of the Sultans had to be designed very carefully. That was an important factor leading to the development of the looms in the palace.

As the Ottoman Empire was getting stronger and stronger, the textiles produced were getting more and more diversified and valuable. The weaving activities, which had been conducted completely in an amateur manner in the beginning, became a professional and strong field of business, responding to the needs of people who were rapidly getting urbanized. In the 15th century, Bursa had become the primary center in the production of velvet silk, and other kinds

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of fabrics. Fabrics of Sultan Mehmed II’s (the Conqueror) kaftans (robes) exhibited today in Topkapı Palace were weaved in Bursa. On those kaftans, which were sewn of a kind of velvet called “çatma”, various patterns were brocaded with gold thread on a red ground. As many other crafts, Ottoman craft of weaving had also shown the biggest development during the 15th century. Bursa was again the leading center of weaving.

According to various sources, the most beautiful fabrics of the kinds of çatma, velvet, satin, baize, velour and the like had been produced in Bursa in those times. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the reputation of fabrics produced in Bursa had been spread as far as Hungary, Poland, France, and Italy. At the weaving workshops in Bursa, the general style of weaving was in the form of applying the patterns of the enamelled tyles on the fabrics in different scales and decorative orders.

Later on, separate weaving workshops of the Palace were also established in İstanbul.

Among the types of fabrics weaved in those workshops of the Palace, there were fabrics called as “seraser” (weaved by using gold and silver threads), “çatma” (a kind of velvet), “kemha” (a type of silk), and “serenk” (a plain fabric). However, the threads used in those workshops were still coming from Bursa.

There were also many weaving workshops

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working independent from the Palace.

It is understood from the relevant “firman”s (sultans’ written orders) that during the reign of Sultan Murat III (15741595), there were totally 268 weaving workshops in istanbul, and that 88 of them were producing fabrics for the Palace.

Various towns of the Ottoman Empire had become famous with the special types of fabrics they were producing. For instance, Bursa was famous with its silk and velvets, while the workshops in İstanbul were known with the satin called “diba”, which they were producing for the Palace. On the other hand, Bergama, Soma, and Denizli towns of West Anatolia were famous with their cotton fabrics. In Ankara, a kind of woolen fabric called “sof” was being produced. Satins of Sakız (Chios) Island, and “benek” (a fabric containing patterns) of Amasya were also famous.

The Ottoman craft of weaving had maintained its traditions until the 18th century. However, as the economic situation of the Empire started to decline, production of luxury textiles got limited. As of the 16th Century, the fabrics produced in Europe had begun entering the Turkish markets, however they could not replace the locally produced textiles until after the 18th century. In 1842, with the establishment of the silk weaving

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factory in Herek, the weaving workshops started to close one after another.

Most of the 2500 pieces exhibited at the Sultans’ garments section of the Topkapı Palace Museum consist of kaftans made of the most beautiful and heavy fabrics specially woven for the Palace. The different fabrics used in the Sultans’ garments are named as atlas, çatma, seraser, serenk, selimiye, kemha, and gezi, according to the techniques and materials used in their production. While the Sultans’ garments were quite plain during the first centuries of the Ottoman Empire, they became more luxurious in time. For instance, the sultans were wearing long-armed (yen) kaftans called as “kapaniçe”, which were open on the front part and having slits on both sides. They could be worn inside or outside other garments. Inside of “kapaniçe”s were covered with fur, and their outside parts were made of expensive fabrics like seraser, atlas, and gezi. They had buttons, and were decorated with precious gems. The type of “kapaçine”s worn outside other garments were also called as “Ceremonial Kaftan”s. They were made of çatma weaved by using gold thread, or seraser, and they had a second arm (yen) extending down the arm from the shoulder. The arms of Kaftans had a historical importance, as they were used to add a grandeur to the apperance of the Sultans, and to be kissed at the bairams and enthronement ceremonies. After the era of political reforms called Tanzimat (1839) in the Ottoman Empire, that tradition of kissing the arms of kaftans were abandoned, and the piece of cloth put on the throne was started to be kissed instead.

Sultan Beyazıt II’s kaftan, made of kemha type of fabric and having herbal patterns of various colors on it, as well as Sultan Murat IV’s kemha kaftan embroidered with gold thread figures on red ground, which are exhibited at the Sultans’ garments section of the Topkapı Palace Museum, are considered among the best examples of the Turkish art of weaving.

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technology

Innovative Approaches in the Design of

Home Textile Products Prof.Nesrin Önlü Dokuz Eylül University, Faculty of Fine Arts

ajority of the studies in the field of home textiles are focused on innovative researches directed to enhance the performance criteria and the functionalities of fabrics. To give examples to those kinds of fabrics, we can talk about stainproof, easily cleaned, dirt-proof, fireproof, noncreasing, waterrepellant, hydrphobic, and thermal fabrics.

The products showing the above-mentioned characteristics – they can be in the form of fabrics, clothes, or home textile items – are called basic products. In their production, almost no concern is shown as regards to their aesthetic and visual features. Such kinds of basic products are primarily produced for the purpose of making life easier. For that reason, their materials and functions are considered important, but their aesthetic features are of secondary concern. In order to develop innovative approaches also taking aesthetic concerns into consideration, it is necessary to work on designs that will create differences in visual characteristics caused by the use of different materials, threads,

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meshes, colors, fabric styles, textures, figures, and patterns. Even though lately the consumers mostly prefer the products easing their lives, still what attracts them and makes them go into a certain store is the visuality of products based on their special designs.

Even though a customer purchases a basic product after entering a store, the factors making that customer go into that store are indeed the color, model, pattern, and texture of the product.

Therefore, when we talk about innovative approach in the design of home textile products, we mean those designs and products which have extraordinary features and visuality, which have been improved in terms of functionality and endurance, and which ease the lives of those using them, and making them feel themselves bodily and spiritually more comfortable, free, out of ordinary, and special than ever before. When designing a product with an innovative approach, we should never ignore the individuality and different needs of consumers, and the fact that needs of a consumer mihgt be different than those of others. In order to be able to

design the home textile products with an innovative approach, our main goal should be creating differences and innovations. If we want to design a product having a unique identity, we should think something that has never been thought by others before, and should draw the attention of consumers to our product. In order to accomplish that, we need to carry out an elaborate study. The first step needed to be taken in shaping the future is to search both the past and today, and to establish a bridge between the two. If we are not fed with the past, we can never develop the future.

When designing an innovative product, it is necessary to produce solutions responding to different consumer needs by taking into consideration the socio-economic and cultural structures of societies. Those solutions should be produced not by separately designing each of the elements making up the whole, but by designing the whole all at once. While designing the whole, our primary targets should be: Creating diversities in terms of styles, colors, and products; developing different areas of utilization and functions

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for the same product; creating an innovative image in terms of colors, styles, and diversities; and ensuring uniqueness and freedom of the designer or the producer.

In order to be able to design the home textile products with a different approach, we should handle the problems with an extraordinary and different viewpoint, and we should find a way to bring together different elements or ideas seeming as if they do not have anything in common. We should put forth innovative and unique designs, which will provide improved utility, and will have different visual features. It would be an innovative approch to do the following: Using the materials used

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in different disciplines in home textiles; bringing together the already existing materials by using different techniques, and in a way that would create different visual effects; increasing the performances of fabrics through finishing processes; using the finishing materials and techniques in a way to diversify the visual design on the surfaces of fabrics; and creating different visual designs by making use of those materials normally used for producing different products having different functions.

Those materials used can be artificial and synthetic biomimetic (inspired by the nature) materials, which are produced by using new technologies and new raw material resources, or they can be produced by using different production disciplines altogether (like the retro-reflective threads and steel threads). It is also possible to use natural materials with an environmentalist approach (like hemp, bamboo, etc.). Two of those three kinds of materials, or all three can be used together.

By using such different types of materials, you can increase the performance characteristics of home textile products for difference functions.

Furthermore, those materials can increase the endurance of the products made of fabrics having different textures. You can also create products of different and extraordinary visual characteristics, in terms of their styles, and the appearance of their surfaces.

Different threads used in the production of home textile products have different functions. For instance, silver threads, threads containing silver nano-particles and silver ions, threads produced from bamboo and hemp, and woolen threads are antibacterial and they have deodorizing characteristics.

On the other hand, the retro-reflective threads have the characteristics of reflecting the light falling on them, and their levels of luminosity change in day and night, and under different lights. Stainless steel threads prevent static electricity. All of those different kinds of threads, besides increasing the performance

of the fabrics, they also contribute a lot to the visuality of the designs by creating visual effects on the surfaces of the fabrics.

SMART BIO-CLEANER /SILVER

You can use silver both in the form of thread in the home textile products, and also by combining the silver ions with polyester threads. By using those kind of threads, “Antimicrobial Fabrics” can be designed and produced. Silver kills the microbes.

At the same time, silver is the second best conductor, after gold. It also neutralizes the static electricity, and eliminates the magnetic fields with its anti-magnetic properties. Silver furthermore acts as a deodorizer by destroying the DNA structures of the bacteria causing odor. It keeps cool in summer, and warm in winter. It helps the quick curing of wounds, and prevents edema in the body. It endures at least 250 washing. It can be cleaned without needing to use water and soap.

Climatex type of fabrics, which were specially developed by using DRY TOUCH threads and technology that can be used in the production of home textile products, consist of polyester thread and silver ions used as biologically active material. DRY TOUCH® Comfort, having a very soft touch, can breath because of its high air permeability, and it rapidly absorbs water.

It can dry very quickly. It has a quite high tear strength. Besides all those properties, DRY TOUCH® Comfort fabrics have high

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pilling resistance, and wear-resistance. They can pull the sweat from the skin quickly, and they are stainproof. Those properties of DRY TOUCH® Comfort fabrics make them superior in comparison with cotton fabrics.

The threads containing silver alloys, covered with silver ions, or produced by directly roving with silver are used not only in the production of home textile items like quilts, pillows, etc., but also other items like towels, bathrobes, furnishings, and curtains. They will be the correct choice for furnishings and floor coverings to be used particularly in summer, because of their antimicrobial and curing properties .

THE THREAD FILTERING THE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT/ BAMBOO

Bamboo contains a unique anti-bacterial and bacteriostatic bio-material. In the course of the process of producing bamboo fibers, that material is combined with bamboo cellulose.

Bamboo is a natural anti-bacterial. It is very light, and gives the feeling of coolness. Its touch is very close to those of kashmir and silk.

It immediately absorbs sweat. It ensures very quick evaporation. It rapidly absorbs the dye.

Because it is already bright, there is no need for mercerization. It filters the ultraviolet light.

It doesn’t lose its anti-bacterial properties even after 50 washing. Due to its natural antibacterial properties, it doesn’t cause allergic reactions on the skin. It has a high level of elasticity. Because of all the above-mentioned properties, bamboo is a material which can be safely used not only in the production of towels or bathrobes, but also and particularly in the furnishings, considering the wideusage of eco-textiles currently. Soft touch and bright appearance of bamboo fibers will contribute a lot to the aesthetic nature of the colors, patterns, and texture of the fabrics made of bamboo. (Research Assist. H. Aylin KARAHAN, Prof. Dr. Tülin ÖKTEM,Prof. Dr. Necdet SEVENTEKİN , NATURAL BAMBOO FIBERS, TEXTILE and READY-MADE

CLOTHING 4/2006, pp:236-240 ).

FIBER EFFECTIVE AGAINST INFECTIONS / HEMP/INDIAN HEMP Hemp is also a fiber having anti-bacterial properties. It prevents diseases like escherichia coli, candidiasis fungi, and staphylococcus infection. It is also effective against chronic dermatitis, bedsores, and eczema. Even after 10 washing, its anti-microbial properties are 20% better than ordinary fibers.

‘TOURMALINE’, THE FIBER CONTAINING NEGATIVE IONS Tourmaline generates a weak electrical current like that generated in our neural system. During the production process of this fiber, a large number of nanometric tourmaline dust particles are added on the surface of the fiber. The electrons spread from the dusts convert the oxygenic molecules to negative ions. Those negative ions, which are also called as air vitamins, have the effects of resting the human body, activating the cells, eliminating the diseases. Due to the fact that the body absorbs more oxygen, the sleep becomes more efficient. The veins are enlarged when the blood pressure gets lower. Increased oxygen content of the blood retards the thickening of the blood, and increases the air absorption capacity of the blood in the lungs.http://www.n-ion.com/e/whation-14-01.html.

of the light, its density, and the nature of the environment. Some of the retro-reflective threads can not be dyed. By mixing the dyed and undyed threads, new kinds of surfaces can be obtained. It is possible to create innovative effects on the surface of the fabric by using the retro-reflection properties of those kinds of threads. The different levels of reflection obtained in day and night, und under different lighting conditions contribute a lot to the visuality of the designed fabric.

At night, under a light source

RETRO REFLECTIVE/REFLECTIVE THREADS

Normally, the retro-reflection property is obtained by means of covering the surface of the fabric through special processes. Retroreflective threads can be obtained by using two types of raw materials: Glass beads and micro prisms.

Those kinds of materials reflect the light falling on them by acting like lenses. Amount of reflection depends on the coming angle

Under daylight Nesrin Önlü, 2010 , Retro-Reflective/Elastane Thread/Cotton BAP (Scientific Research Project) Project No. 2006.KB.SOS.003, headed as ‘The Innovations of Design Brought by the Fibers and Threads Produced with High Technology to the Fabrics used in Cloth-making”.

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It is also possible to produce innovative effects by applying the currently used techniques, besides the new functional and visual properties which will be brought by the different recently-developed materials to the home textiles. Digital printing applied on leathers, and special styles of cladding used in various environments can be given as examples to innovative applications. The special claddings can be applied inside or on the furnitures, besides the walls.

STEEL THREAD

It has high level of elasticity. Provides protection against electromagnetic waves.

Prevents static electricity. It is wear-resistant.

It can be used for the purposes of preventing static electricity, protecting against impacts and cuts, heating, providing protection against radiation, and ensuring filtration. It can also be used for visual purposes, with the aim of giving the desired shape by hand or through mechanic means, and giving a bright appearance.

By using steel threads, it is possible to produce not only the home textile products providing protection from electromagnetic waves, but at the same time products having different visual characteristics. By using steel threads, different visual effects can be created on the surfaces of fabrics, such as wrinkles of various shapes and embossed figures.

At night, under a light source Embossed and bright appearance

Under daylight Embossed appearance

NesrinÖnlü, 2010 /Stainless Steel/RetroReflective Thread/Cotton BAP (Scientific Research Project) Project No. 2006.KB.SOS.003, headed as ‘The Innovations of Design Brought by the Fibers and Threads Produced with High Technology

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to the Fabrics used in Cloth-making” NesrinÖnlü, 2010 / Stainless Steel /Cotton Wrinkles of various shapes BAP (Scientific Research Project) Project No. 2006.KB.SOS.003, headed as ‘The Innovations of Design Brought by the Fibers and Threads Produced with High Technology to the Fabrics used in Cloth-making”.

In addition to all the different kinds of materials mentioned above, there are many other different examples of innovative materials and products, such as: Textile fibers having pattern memory; water soluble threads; curtains having properties of energy absorption, thermal shock-resistance, better rupture strength, and tear-strength; auxetic materials which can be used in the production of bullet-proof curtains; textiles products made of antistatic threads which discharge the static electricity accumulated on the body of individuals, and act as a barrier to electromagnetic radiation; anti-allergic textile products which reduce the shortness of breath caused by allergic reactions of the body; textile products increasing better absorption of B and C vitamins by the body, or creating other positive effects like relieving migraine pains; threads having thermal conductivity and cooling the body temperature at a level of 3.7 0C by constantly absorbing the moisture and evaporating it; threads providing UV protection; fabrics having carbon nanotubes placed on polycarbonate membranes, and thus can convert the light falling on them to heat; fabrics destroying the allergens like pollens in the air; textiles spreading nice smells to the environment with the effect of smell capsules added in them (the liquid fibers are kept in a spray material, and when those fibers are sprayed in a mould, they quickly take the shape of the mould, get hardened, and converted into the form of a fabric); fibers called as “photonic fibers”, which can change color from blue to red, green, and many other colors when they stretched; fibers consisting of cellulosebased ionic solvents, which absorbe toxic materials and reduce water consumption; optic threads ensuring the production of textiles with different visual characteristics; and LED materials and threads. Those kinds of materials provide the opportunity for the design and production of innovative new home textile items having highly developed functionality and visuality.

Sertaç Algüney Design / Point of Design Digital printing on leather

Sertaç Algüney Design / Point of Design Cladding applied inside furnitures Consequently, it can be said that many innovative effects can be created in the home textiles by various means, either by increasing their performances and areas of usage through the use of different materials in their production, or by adding a new dimension and visuality, or by using visuality and different materials together. The changes occurring in the socio-economic structures of societies, the rapid pace of life, much importance given to time-saving measures, and priority given to individual-specific designs will be the leading factors which will open the way for many new innovative developments, besides those mentioned above.

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EPHESUS,

THE WITNESS OF HISTORY Though the holiday resorts situated along the Turkish coasts extending from Istanbul to Antalya are mostly known with their natural beauties and spectacular beaches, they indeed hide many other wonders waiting to be explored. The antic town of Ephesus is located on the west, the Aegean coastal area of Anatolian territories, being the homelands of tens of civilizations throughout history. Ephesus is known as the witness of history and it waits for its visitors to tell them stories of thousands of years before. In that region, many religious and cultural relics, as well as the traces of recent history can be seen altogether.

W

orld history consists of stories.

It is possible to find in history many interesting stories about wars, loves, revolutions, expeditions, songs, dreams‌The people who lived ordinary lives and were forgotten in time, are waiting to be remembered, and they can only be remembered and seen again through the relics they left behind.

Those who lived at the earliest periods of humankind, and wished to be remembered

in the future times, tried to draw pictures on the walls of caves. The stories thought to be worth remembered were transferred to the next generations by telling them. Later on, the humankind learnt writing, and the books became good story-tellers. Still, thousands of stories which could not be written on papers were forgotten in the flow of time. Of course there were some stories resisting to become forgotten. The antic towns hidden under the ground patiently waited for the day they

would be found. And when that day came, they started to tell their stories again.

Historical structures, no matter when they were constructed –they can be constructed hundreds or thousands of years ago –hide historical stories in each of their details. One can find many opportunities in every corner of Turkey to make a travel in time to the past.

Anatolian territories, being the homeland of tens of different civilizations throughout

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history, is full of the relics left by them. Some of those relics have been very well protected during all those years, and they are still standing, waiting for the people who will come and listen to their stories containing all the details about the daily life of past. One of those witnesses of history is the antic town of Ephesus…

CENTER OF THE WORLD Water has always been a shelter for humans.

It would not be wrong to say that living at a place close to the “source of life” makes one feel safer. When this fact is taken into consideration, it is not difficult to understand why the largest towns of earlier civilizations were established at places close to water sources. Ephesus was one of the largest antic towns established on the Western coasts of Anatolia. It was the center of the whole region. However, the story of Ephesus starts much earlier before it gained that much importance and richness.

At a time going back as early as 6,000 B.C., defined by the scientists as the Neolithic Age, a town was started to be established around today’s Selçuk district of İzmir. The town Apasas, which had grown during the time of Hittite civilization, started to be inhabited also by the Greek immigrants coming across the Aegean Sea in the 1050’s B.C. Ephesus was previously a port town. However, in the year 560 B.C., the town was shifted inside, to be situated around the temple dedicated to Artemis. The said temple, considered among the seven wonders of the world, was constructed in a way to reflect the style of Anatolian Mother Goddess Kybele. That

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temple, the construction of which had been completed in more than 100 years, became the center of the whole region. Today, there are only two pieces of marble remaining from that spectacular temple. Antipatros of Sidon, who had prepared the list of Seven Wonders of the World says the following about the Artemis Temple: “When I saw Artemis’s house constructed above the clouds, all other wonders lost their brilliance in my eyes”. At those times, the town area around Artemis Temple were constantly growing, since it was a center of attraction for many people, from the traveling merchants to the visitors coming for religious reasons. However, it is a well-known fact that change is something unavoidable. Later on in the 300’s B.C., the town of Ephesus was reconstructed at its new location by Lysimakhos, one of the commanders in the army of Macedonian king Alexander the Great, who had been on a campaign then to conquer Anatolia. reconstructed Ephesus at a place five kilometers back from the coastal area, and reorganized the plan of the town in a way that all the streets and avenues cutting each other at right angles. The reason of bringing the town away from the coast was the danger caused by the alluvial deposits brought by the River Kayster (Küçük Menderes) and were constantly accumulating at the port. However, those efforts of Lysimakhos could not reverse

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the process of the downfall of Ephesus, which was shifting towards the area where today’s Selçuk district is located.

FROM YESTERDAY TO OUR TIME It is estimated that Ephesus, living its golden age during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, had a population of about 200,000 then. The location of the town was changed also during the Byzantine era. Later on, it maintained its existence under the rules of Aydinogullari Beyligi (Principality) and ottoman Empire.

Time never stops, and only those being able to resist to the flow of time can survive.

Ephesus, gaining something from every civilization inhabited in the region, had been the center of trade, science, culture, and arts all through its history. It can be easily seen today by looking at the remnants of the town.

Ruins of Ephesus creates an effect on visitors at first sight. Vedius Gymnasium courtyard seen at the entrance of the town, as well as the hall of ceremonies, bath and changing rooms indicate that Ephesus was a center where training was being given in the fields of sports and culture. The huge capacity of the stadium where sports competitions were organized, as well as the theater built for 25,000 spectators are the proofs showing how large Ephesus was.

The most striking structure in Ephesus Antic town is no doubt the the two-storey Celsus Library. It is thought that once about 14,000 books were being kept in that library, having a width of 11 meters, and length of 530 meters.

It can be easily seen from the Harbor Street.

Among the baths, hillside houses, large squares, love house, fountains, decorations, and great many other interesting details, another well-protected structure which should absolutely be seen is the Hadrian Temple.

In order to visit that historical town, one should spend at least a whole day. In Ephesus a whole history lies under each stone. The excavations, which had started first in 1869 are still going on at the area. When the historical information obtained within 150 years passed since the beginning of excavations are taken into consideration, it would not be wrong to say that there are still many hidden secrets waiting to be explored on these territories.

CENTER OF BELIEF The splendour of Ephesus is really astonishing.

However there are also many other places worth seeing outside Ephesus. The region, bringing together people of different religious beliefs around Artemis Temple, has a great importance for Christians.

For instance, at the historical location called “Yedi Uyurlar” (Seven Sleepers), there is cavern believed to have provided shelter to seven young Christians escaping from the paganists under the rule of Roman Emperor Decius. It is said that those young Christians hiding in that cavern had slept there for 200 years, and when they woke up, they saw that Christian relion had been spread everywhere while they were sleeping. That cavern was turned into a sepulcher during the Byzantine period.

Indeed, there are many arguments about the real place of the cavern of Seven Sleepers.

Another place which should be seen in the region is the House of St. Mary...It is believed that St. Mary had lived in the house constructed on the Bulbul Mountain.

According to the story, Jesus Christ asks his friend and apostle St. Jean to protect his mother shortly before his crucification. St. Jean, finding it unsafe for St. Mary to remain in Jerusalem, had brought her to that house.

It is believed that St. Mary had hidden in this house until the age of 101, and died here, but then she was buried at a place nobody knew.

After the spread of Christianity, a church in the shape of a cross was also built where St. mary had lived. Ruins of the house was found in the beginning of 19th Century, after a dream of German nun Anna, who had seen the house in her dream and described its place. In 1957, the place where the ruins of the house exist was announced by the Pope as a place to be visited for pilgrimage. Today, it is one of the holiest places for Christians.

A VERY NICE VILLAGE There is still another place of recent historical value, which can be seen by the visitors coming to the region. It is the pretty and small village of Şirince…In order to reach the village, you need to take a road of 8 kilometers extending from Selçuk to Şirince through the olive trees. Şirince was established in 19th century as an Ottoman village. The houses built on the hillside seem interesting. About 200 of the old houses of the village could be protected until today. In the village, you can feel yourself at a time period between yesterday and today. Until it was vacated in the 1920’s, during the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, the name of the village was Kırkınca, and it was widely inhabited by Greeks.

In the beginning of the 20th century, there were about 800 families living in the village.

Following the population exchange, the Turks coming from Greece were settled in Şirince.

Today, it is a touristic place, and many of the old village houses were restored to be used as boutique hotels or restaurants. In the small streets close to the vehicle traffic, the local women sell various kinds of Aegean plants.

What makes Şirince famous is in fact its wines produced from various kinds of fruits.

In the region, every place, from a large town located on the beautiful coasts of Aegean Sea to a small village hidden among the green trees, continue to produce its own history to be told to the next generations.

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Traditional Turkish Desserts In every language, the words meaning “dessert� have very positive meanings, reminding joy and pleasure, and they are identified with feelings of love and happiness. The main ingredient of desserts is always sugar.

W

hen we look at the general history of the cuisines of different cultures, we see that Anatolia has a specific place in the history of dessert making. Early inhabitants of Anatolia are known as the first dessert-makers.

When today’s Central Asian Turkish cuisine is examined, it is not possible to see many clues indicating that Central Asian Turks were involved in dessert making. It is understood that our ancestors, like the Chinese, were not familiar with desserts.

However, it seems that following their migration to Anatolia, Turks quickly adopted the deeply rooted dessert-making tradition of Anatolian people, and they continued that tradition as a cultural inheritance. During the Ottoman era, the Turks can be said to have undertaken the mission of integrating the Middle Eastern dessert making culture going back to very early times, with the dessert making culture of the people living on the territories extending to the middle parts of Europe.

Thanks to the Turks, cuisines of countless different cultures have been integrated in a melting pot, and various desserts of both the East and West have reemerged in a much more refined taste in Istanbul, the capital of Ottoman Empire.

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Famous Historical Turkish Desserts SÜTLAÇ The first food we meet with in our infanthood is milk. We first taste our mothers’ milk, which is later replaced by cow’s milk. It is possibly for that reason, the first desserts known in history were made of milk.

Sütlaç is perhaps the most widely known and favored one among our milky desserts. In Divan-u Lugat-it Turk (the first comprehensive dictionary of Turkic languages), there is a reference to a dessert named “Uwa”. Its recipe is given as follows: “The rice is boiled and then taken into cold water. Later, its water is drained and sugar is added. It is eaten cold”.

The name Sütlaç is first used in medical books written in 15th century, or in the poems of Kaygusuz Abdal, in the forms of “milky cooked food” or “milky rice”.

Sütlaç also entered the Italian cuisine; it was offered in a feast given by the Pope Pius V in 1570 as the third dish, and was presented as “Turkish style milky rice topped with sugar and cinnamon”. In Turkey, sütlaç was a prestigious dessert offered in palaces.

Sütlaç was also offered in the feast given by the Ottoman Sadrazam (Prime Minister) to the British Ambassador Lord John Finch, after he was received by Sultan Mehmet IV at the Palace in Edirne.

MUHALLEBİ Muhallebi is another of our delicious dessert favored as much as Sütlaç, perhaps even more.

Muhallebi was a dessert frequently prepared in the kitchens of Ottoman palaces in

plain form, or by adding chicken breast. Its name comes from a famous Abbasid aristocrat.

In the beginning, it was a dish containing meat, rice, honey and saffron. Later on, adding meat to muhallebi started to become optional. Sultan Mehmet II, the Conqueror used to prefer muhallebi with chicken breast; therefore his muhallebi was always prepared by adding chicken meat besides milk and rice flour. In the book of Shirvani, an Ottoman physician lived in 15th century, two different recipes of muhallebi are given; one with meat, the other without meat. Some butter, rose water, and powder sugar are added to the one without meat, after it is cooked and put into bowls.

Muhallebi was among the most favored desserts prepared in the bairams, or to be offered to ambassadors at the kitchens of palaces. Later, muhallebi was started to be sold in the streets, recreation areas, and

public baths (hammam). The muhallebi sold in the streets was topped with honey or grape molasses, besides rose water and powder sugar. The Western travelers, being familiar with another dessert prepared in their own cuisine under the name of “blanc mange”, which was quite similar to muhallebi, also liked that Turkish version of their dessert very much. In a cook book published in English in late 19th century, there is a recipe named “Ramadan Cake”, which is indeed a “Turkish Style” muhallebi, prepared by adding rose water or jasmin water.

KAZANDİBİ (BOTTOM OF HE POT) Mahmut Nedim was the first one who mentioned about kazandibi type of muhallebi, by telling that the muhallebi makers were “using metal spoons for skimming the bottom of the pot they had cooked milky muhallebi or chicken breast in, then they were distributing that material to the plates in a way that its reddish part would be on top, and they were calling it ‘kazgan dibi’”. Ahmed Cavid, who wrote during the reign of Sultan Selim III., tells the following: “Rice and other meals sticking on the bottom of the pot become delicious.

However, those parts of the meals are not eaten by the owners of the house, but by their servants”. Muhallebi makers of Istanbul, knowing that fact about the meals, did not leave the bottoms of pots to the servants, but they offered it as one of the most delicious desserts of Ottoman cuisine, named kazandibi.

Simple Recipes: Şekerpare: It is a kind of dessert made of semolina. For preparing that dessert, take

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2 eggs, 2 tea glasses of powder sugar, 1 tea glass of semolina, 2 tea glasses of liquid oil, sufficient amount of flour, 1 packet baking powder, and vanilla powder.

For preparing the sherbet, you need 3 water glasses of water, 3 water glasses of granulated sugar, and 3-5 drops of lemon juice. First, prepare the sherbet by boiling sugar with water. Before taking it from the oven, add the lemon juice. In a deep bowl, mix eggs, semolina, and sugar. Then add the flour until obtaining a soft dough. Take small pieces from the dough and roll them between your palms to form small balls.

Put one nut or almond on the middle of each of them. Bake them at 1700C. When you take them out of the furnace, pour the previously prepared sherbet on them.

Baklava: It is our traditional and the most favored dessert. It is consumed frequently, particularly during bairams. Preparation of that dessert necessitates great skill, since its phyllo should be very thin. Easy recipe of baklava is as follows: You need 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ½ teaglass of liquid oil, sufficient amount of flour, walnut to be put between layers of phyllo, and starch to be used in preparing the phyllos. For preparing its sherbet, 5 waterglasses of sugar, 6 waterglasses of water, and juice of half lemon are needed. First prepare the sherbet, and take it aside for cooling.

Mix the above mentioned materials to produce a soft dough, and then separate it into pieces. Make a very thin phyllo from each of the pieces by using a rolling pin, and by sprinkling starch. Place the

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phyllos on previously oiled tray in layers and pour melted butter on each layer.

When you placed half of the phyllos, sprinkle walnut on the tray, then continue to place the layers. After you placed all of the phyllos, cut them into pieces and por melted butter again. Then bake it1700C. When you take it out of the furnace, pour the previously prepared sherbet on it.

Kadayıf: It is one of our oldest desserts. Its recipe is as follows: Take 250 gr. kadayıf, 125 gr.butter, ½ waterglass of milk, ground

walnut. For preparing the sherbet, you need 2 ½ waterglasses of sugar, 3 waterglasses of water, and 3-5 drops of lemon juice. First prepare the sherbet, and take it aside for cooling. Gently pull apart the thin strings of kadayıf from their strands. Oil a tray, and smoothly spread half of the kadayıf. Sprinkle the walnuts and place the other half of kadayıf on them. Pour melted butter on the tray and bake at 180 0C until kadayıf turns to a brownish color. When you take it out of the furnace, pour the milk and then the sherbet.

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