Pachanga On
Recipes and Tips for the After-Party Article by LORIE A. WOODWARD Photos by KRISTIN PARMA
D
ove, a versatile, dark meat with a flavor reminiscent of beef, is a small package with big flavor. “Once you realize that game because of its leanness can't be cooked like other meats, then a world of possibilities opens up to you,” said Kristin Brooke Parma, TWA Membership Coordinator. “You can adapt almost any recipe to game and likely have folks enjoy it.” In recent years, Parma's skills as a wild game cook have grown alongside her passion thanks to the mentorship of Chef Jesse Griffiths. Griffiths owns Austin's Dai Due and the New School of Traditional Cookery, where Parma also works as a guide. Griffiths, a Texas leader in the field to table movement, continues to lend his talents to TWA's popular Hunt to Table Dinners. Like steak and most game, doves are at their best when cooked rare to medium rare. Because of their size, it is easy to overcook
14 T E X A S W I L D L I F E
SEPTEMBER 2021
doves and turn them into “dove jerky.” While doves are delicious grilled and fried, Parma suggests searing them because the technique gives cooks the greatest control. If the dove breasts have been refrigerated, first allow them to come to room temperature, and then season them with salt and pepper. Next, drop them in a sizzling pool of butter waiting in the bottom of a favorite cast iron pan. Sear 1-2 minutes on each side. Allow to rest. “When I work with dove, I want the dove flavor to be the star in the show,” Parma said. To that end, she eschews overpowering flavors and concentrates on complementary flavors that elevate the dove. She turns to beef recipes for inspiration. Like beef, doves pair well with mushrooms and red wine as well as butter- or oilbased herb sauces. One of her favorites is chimichurri, an oilbased Brazilian sauce featuring fresh garlic, parsley, cilantro and sometimes other tender herbs such as oregano or mint. During the season, Parma and her husband often go dove hunting after work. Supper that night is whatever they harvest that afternoon. “We enjoy eating dove in their season,” Parma said. Sometimes they breast the birds, while other times they pluck them, depending on how they will prepare them. They also save the hearts as nibbles. Because the couple likes the immediate connection to the land, the harvest and the food, the Parmas generally do not freeze any birds. For those who want to enjoy the high-flying steak nuggets later, she suggested purchasing a vacuum packer to keep the meat freezer burn-free. To maximize flexibility, package the dove in 2-3 bird serving sizes. “Cooking is my love language. If I adore you, I want to feed you,” Parma said. “I'm not five-star chef, but I get excited to share food with my people.” According to Parma, September is the perfect time to break bread because they can share the bounty of their garden, their foraging and their dove hunting bags, if nature and luck allow. By design, the post-hunt dinner isn't elaborate. “Because I'm hunting too, I aim for simple, but elevated,” Parma said. She builds her menu around garden-fresh salsas and sauces and field favorites such mesquite bean jelly or prickly pear mint juleps. A good cocktail is always part of the mix. “For me this gathering is less about the menu and more about sharing a meal that comes from the land in more ways than one—and keeping us connected to one another,” Parma said.
